mompox colombia travel guide

Practical Guide to Mompox, Colombia – Historic River Port Gem Frozen in Time

Located about 6 hours to the southeast of cartagena, mompox is a pretty colonial town that was a favorite of gabriel garcía marquez.  once the main colonial river port and vital link between the interior and the coast, mompox is most well known for its impressive colonial churches and architecture.  it’s a great place to visit a bit off the beaten path, where you can almost imagine you are still in the 1700s.  read on for a complete travel guide to mompox, colombia, where you’ll learn how to get there, what to do, where to stay, and what to pack for a visit to mompox, colombia..

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Travel Guide to Mompox, Colombia – Contents

• Why You Should Visit Mompox

How to Get to Mompox

• What to Do in Mompox

Where to Stay in Mompox

• Practical Travel Tips for Mompox

Packing List for Mompox

Why visit mompox.

Located among the mangrove swamps along the Magdalena River, Mompox, also sometimes called Mompos, is slightly off the beaten traveler’s path in Colombia.  It is a tad difficult to get to, and is kind of out of the way of many of the traditional treks through Colombia.  However, this historic gem is absolutely worth visiting!

Officially named Santa Cruz de Mompox, the town was founded in 1537 , making it among the oldest Spanish settlements in Colombia.  It was used as the main river port along the Magdalena River throughout the colonial era.  Nearly everything moving in or out from the interior of the colony passed through Mompox on its way to or from Cartagena and abroad.

That made the town fabulously wealthy, and it was famed for its gold work.  It also helped fund the impressive mansions and gorgeous churches that make Mompox one of the most picturesque towns in all of Colombia.  It is like a more colorful version of Barichara.  It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995 .

Besides seeing that architecture and imagining your are in a Gabriel García Marquez novel, the surrounding mangroves and the river can be seen on a tour, and the town is famous for its annual Jazz Festival and celebration of Semana Santa.

Susana and I visited Mompox back in December 2016, and thought it was absolutely worth the trip!

If you’re convinced to visit Santa Cruz de Mompox, Colombia yourself, then read on where I’ll give you lowdown on how to get there, what to do, where to stay, as well as provide you with a packing list and some practical tips for planning your visit to Mompox, Colombia.

So when we went, we took a private van service recommended by a friend.  I’ve lost that contact.  There is unfortunately scant information online on bus routes to Mompox, although there are at least two daily from Cartagena now.

My experience is lots of routes aren’t listed online, so you can always try heading to the nearest bus terminal and asking.  Even if there is not a direct bus to Mompox, you can probably find out how to get to Mompox via multiple buses.  I’m going to do my best to summarize the info I’ve found below about arriving from elsewhere than Cartagena.

How to Get to Mompox from Cartagena

To travel from Cartagena to Mompox, the easiest thing to do now is to take a direct bus from the terminal.  The company that runs buses from Cartagena to Mompox is Unitransco (owned by Brasilia).  There is one that leaves in the morning and one that goes over night.  You can see their times and prices and even make reservations at their website (search for Mompos) or at redbus.co .

You can also ask your hotel or hostel in Mompox about private door to door transportation that can bring you from Cartagena to Mompox.

How to Get to Mompox from Elsewhere

By direct bus.

According to Redbus.co, there are also direct buses to Mompox from Barranquilla .  According to other sources I’ve found online, there are also direct buses to Mompox from Santa Marta, Bucaramanga, and Bogotá , although I’ve been unable to confirm those.  Again, I recommend going to the terminal in the city where you are and asking since Redbus usually only has a fraction of available routes listed online.

By Bus and Public Transportation

If you’re coming from Medellín or elsewhere in the interior where there are not direct buses, you’ll want to arrive to Magangué , just down river from Mompox.  (Note, if coming from San Gil, go to Bucaramanga and take the direct bus from there).

You should be able to get a bus to Sincelejo from Medellín or Bogotá.  From there you can get a bus to Magangué.

Once in Magangué, you’ll want to take a boat taxi known as a chalupa to Bodega .  From Bodega, you can take a collective taxi to Mompox.

Can You Fly to Mompox?

No, but you can fly relatively close.  The closest airport is named Las Brujas located about 20 minutes outside of Sincelejo.  From Sincelejo, you can easily get to Magangué and then to Mompox.

A smaller airport, Avianca recently inaugurated a direct flight from Bogotá to Las Brujas.  ( Search flights here ).  You can also get flights on the smaller airlines Satena and ADA.

For more info on how to get to Mompox, check out this great page from La Casa Amarrilla (which is actually where we stayed).  I also would again highly recommend asking wherever you make your reservations what they recommend for transportation from where you are coming from, as that will guarantee you have the most up to date information on how to get to Mompox.

What to Do in Mompox – Top Things to Do in Mompox, Colombia

See the beautiful colonial churches.

This is probably the highlight of the town.  There are several gorgeous churches in town.

Our favorite was the Santa Barbara Church (pictured at the top) with its neat and colorful bell tower to the side.  It was built in 1613, and sits on a large plaza near the end of town right outside of La Casa Amarilla .  It is very pretty during the day time as well as when it’s lit up at night.

On the town’s main plaza, you’ll find the Church of the Immaculate Conception.   The original church here was built by Pedro de Heredia not long after the town’s founding and had a thatch roof.  It was later expanded and rebuilt several times until being demolished in 1839 when a new church was built on the site to be the highlight of the historic centre of Santa Cruz de Mompox.  The red and yellow squarish design is quite pretty.

The red colored San Francisco Church is located just off the waterfront a couple blocks past the main plaza, and is also very pretty lit up at night.  It dates to 1564.

The other churches of note include the San Agustín, the Santo Domingo, and the San Juan de Dios .

Do a Sunset River Cruise and Mangrove Tour

This was really cool and totally worth it .  Since we did this trip before this website was even an idea in my head, I don’t have detailed notes on it, but if memory serves me correctly, we set this up once there from the waterfront near the old market.

So ask around, because this was cool.  It left in the late afternoon and headed into the mangrove swamps about 20 minutes downriver where you’ll get to see lots of birds fishing for their dinner along the way and the guide explains a bit about the ecosystem.  Then you head back out to the Magdalena to watch the sunset over the river on the way back to town.

There is also a bigger restaurant/bar boat that does a sunset cruise.  We stopped and had a beer there one afternoon but didn’t do the tour, although I imagine it’s plenty fun and will get you the beautiful view as well.

See the Religious Artwork in Casa de los Apóstoles

In this former mansion, there is a collection of artwork and sculptures of the 12 Apostles and Jesus.  It is a neat little place to check out and there are some examples of gold and silver smith work as well.

See the San Juan de Dios Hospital

This hospital was founded in 1550 and is the oldest hospital in the Americas that still operates in its original building.

See the Plaza de la Libertad

While Cartagena’s declaration of independence on November 11, 1811 created the first fully independent functioning state in what became Colombia, Mompox was actually the site of the first declaration of absolute independence from Spain on August 6, 1810.

Under the jurisdiction of the still moderately conservative colonial government in Cartagena, it was brought back under control of the regional capital in early 1811.  However, some of the radicals that were part of Mompox’s declaration, notably the Guiterrez Piñeres family, helped to push Cartagena to its own declaration later that year.

The city also provided Simón Bolívar with 400 recruits in 1812 which he used to help temporarily free Caracas.

In the Plaza de la Libertad, there is a statue in honor of independence and the Momposinos that fought with Bolívar .  And of course, there is a statue of Bolívar himself.

See the Old Market

Located along the waterfront in front of the central plaza where the Church of the Immaculate Conception is, the old market building would have been the center of colonial Mompox.

A neat two story building, its fun to imagine all the goods that would have passed through here in its heyday .  The city was made fabulously wealthy from the tax and customs revenue from the boats that passed through here, and after Cartagena, the designated port, and Bogotá, the capital, Mompox was likely the 3rd most important and wealthiest commercial center of the colonial era.

Later sediment build up in the river in the late 19th and early 20th centuries helped reduce the river port’s importance, but the market and the impressive churches the money funded stand as testaments to its legacy.  Today, you can find artisan crafts for sale in the market as well as wine made from the fruit Corozo, which is a semi-famous regional favorite.

Marvel at the Architecture

Almost everything in Mompox, especially around the center of the town is old, and much of the architecture is very neat.

Besides funding the construction of so many churches, all the trade income made some of the town’s residents extremely wealthy.  All along the waterfront promenade there are big mansions .  Some are hotels or restaurants today, but many remain private residences.  Be sure to walk along the waterfront and check them out in addition to seeing all the churches and other neat colonial architecture.

See the Annual Jazz Festival

Every September, there is a Jazz Music Festival in Mompox .  A major event, it draws artists and visitors from around Colombia and the world .  If you happen to be in Colombia at the start of September, you should definitely try to include it!

See the Semana Santa Celebrations

Mompox is also very well known for its celebration of Semana Santa during the Easter season .  With elaborate processions and decorations in all the major old churches, it is also worth passing through here if you happen to be traveling through Colombia during Easter Week.

Where to Eat in Mompox

Bar and grill on the waterfront.

I can’t recall the name of this place, but there was a great little restaurant along the waterfront between Santa Barbara and the town’s center.  They served up great big portions of beef, chicken, pork, and fish for pretty cheap.

With the grill out front giving off delicious smells, you can’t miss it, and we ended up eating lunch here both days we were in Mompox.

El Fuerte – Great Brick Oven Pizza

Opened by an Austrian, this neat little place near the end of town close to La Casa Amarilla, had terrific pizza .  I remember also being excited that they had a tasty Moscow Mule.  The homemade Austrian sausage pizza was terrific.  With wooden tables, the place also has a neat rustic vibe.

The Main Plaza

Around the Plaza of the Church of the Immaculate Conception, there are several places with outdoor seating serving up Colombian fast food like mazorcas, salchipapas, and pizzas.  We had dinner and a beer one night here too.

There are a number of other little cafes and restaurants along the waterfront near the San Francisco Church.

La Casa Amarilla – Where We Stayed

Located just next to the Santa Barbara Church, we were very happy with La Casa Amarilla .  The room was nice, the price was fair, the staff helpful, and they had comfy rocking chairs.  It’s about 10-15 minute walk from the central plaza, and while there was not a whole lot open at night besides El Fuerte nearby, we were also fine with the location.  In all, I would definitely recommend it, especially for couples or families traveling to Mompox.

Check Availability and Book Here via Booking.com

Portal de la Marquesa – Great Riverfront Hotel in Mompox

Set in one of the mansions along the riverfront, Hotel Portal de la Marquesa makes for a great option as well.  It is also located very centrally and will make you feel like you truly have traveled back in time.  There is also a small pool here, great for cooling off after exploring in the blazing hot sun!

Café Mompox – Great Colonial Home for Families or Groups

A family run, bed and breakfast style guest house, Café Mompox has two family rooms that can sleep up to 5 people each.  The more exclusive vibe and large rooms would make it a perfect Mompox hotel for those traveling with children, groups, or even couples who want peace and quiet.

Casa Isabelita – Great Value Hotel in Mompox

Located just behind the Santa Barbara Church, Casa Isabelita has to be one of the best valued priced hotels in Mompox.  Although newer, it has great reviews and pretty rooms.  I think if we went back to Mompox I would strongly consider staying here as it looks like a great bang for your peso.  In addition to a standard double room, there are also a suite and deluxe that each can sleep up to 3.

Pueblito Magico Hostel 

With a private as well as dorms (not to mention a cool name), Pueblito Magico makes a great option for where to stay in Mompox on a budget.  It is also located right across from the river and offers easy access to the main sites to see in Mompox.

See Other Places to Stay in Mompox via Booking.com

Travel Tips for Mompox

• First things first, it is hot!   Like ghost town everyone hiding in their homes after midday from the blazing hot sun hot.  Do make sure you bring along sunscreen, a good hat, and keep hydrated .
• There are ATMs in Mompox.
• I don’t remember for sure, but from what I recall the water was not drinkable in Mompox, so it’s best to be on the safe side and stick to bottled or bagged water.
• The alternative spelling Mompos is quite common (and there is some debate about what the official spelling is or should be) so keep that in mind if you are searching for information or hotels.
• This site made by a local tour guide has lots of good information (in Spanish) and better photos than mine, as well as his contact info if you’d like a tour.
• If you are planning to go during Semana Santa or the Jazz Festival, be sure to book your hotel in Mompox well in advance as the town often fills up entirely during those dates.

Useful Travel Gear

• If you need a good bag, I love my Osprey Porter 46L Pack .  It can be carried as a backpack or a duffel (shoulder-strap not included, but I recommend this generic one over Osprey’s).  It also can fit a ton and has straps for condensing it when it’s not all the way full.  It will count as a carry on for most airlines.  You can also check out the Farpoint 40L that is a tad smaller to comply with the strictest carryon requirements and has more padding on the backpack straps.
• I also love my Roam Packable Backpack .  It folds up into a little pouch, perfect for stuffing into a bigger pack and using as a day pack.  It holds quite a bit and is surprisingly sturdy as well (you can see my full review here ).
• I also like my Takeya water bottle and it will keep things cool all day , perfect for the hot sun in Mompox.  You’ll also save a few pesos and be more environmentally friendly than buying plastic bottles.  If you want something easier to pack when empty, also check out this roll up bottle from Nomader .
• I also love my RawWood Green Lensed Bamboo Shades (see my review here ).  While perhaps more apt for the beach vibes of Palomino , I think they’ll fit in just fine in Mompox as well.
• You’ll also want a good sun hat , and this packable Panama hat can be folded up and not lose its shape, perfect for travel.  The ladies might also want to check out this more floppy sun hat style (also packable).
• Finally, with that hot sun, don’t forget the sunscreen!   I like Coppertone Sport as it seems to hold up well to sweat.

Clothes to Pack for Her

• This simple top is cute and comfortable.
• This sleeveless button up is perfect for the sun.
• These cargo capris are lightweight and perfect for traveling.
• This long skirt with buttons would fit right in in the old timey feel of Mompox.

• This cute two piece dress would not only be comfy in the heat but would look great in the day or evening.
• Ditto for this white jumpsuit .
• This long white dress is simple but elegant.
• And finally, this striped button up dress would look great in the colonial feel of Mompox.

Clothes to Pack for Him

• Columbia’s Thistletown Polos have UV protection and wick away moisture.
• Their button ups do as well.
• A nice Guayabera linen shirt will not only be comfortable in the heat but will fit the local style.
• Or you could opt for a more casual look with this drawstring collar linen shirt .

There you have it, a complete travel guide to Mompox, Colombia’s colonial river port stuck in time.  If you do decide to go yourself, I hope this guide helped you plan your visit to Mompox, and more importantly I hope you enjoy it!

Cheers and Happy Exploring!

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You may also be interested in the following posts: Travel Guide to Palomino, Colombia’s Hippest Beach Town Travel Guide to the Lush Mountain Town of Minca Travel Guide to Leticia, Colombia’s Amazon Travel Guide to Whale Watching on Deserted Beaches in Nuquí

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Pam goes travelling

Travel blog of a Singaporean

Guide to Colombia’s Mompox – Everything you need to know

In the Bolívar department of Colombia lies Mompox. A town that not many ventures to despite it being a UNESCO Heritage site. While this place is not as popular as other towns like Villa de Leva, Guatalupe and Salento, it played a significant role in shaping the history of Colombia. Today, this town attracts the curious and adventurous. 

I don’t blame anyone who gives Mompox a miss. After all, this is not the most accessible town to get to. Which is also why it adds to the charm of this place, sort of like a hidden gem. This is, however, the perfect place to be if you need to recuperate from the travel fatigue, recharge your battery or just to escape from the city life. 

I hope I did not make the place sounds boring! Don’t get me wrong, this is one of my favourite places in Colombia after spending a weekend here . As laid-back as this town is, you can easily spend 2 to 3 days here.  Here is everything you need to know about Mompox, the forgotten town that stole my heart away. 

How to get in and out of Mompox

Tucking Mompox into your itinerary would make sense if you are travelling through Colombia, going from one major city to another. A good route that you can slot Mompox in is travelling from Cartagena to Bucaramanga and vice versa.  Else, it is just not worth the effort to travel to Mompox for a few days. Unless of course, you want to visit Mompox so badly that you are willing to put up with the hassle and all the long hours of travelling. 

Private aircraft

The easiest and fastest way to get in and out of Mompox is via flying on a charted plane. The closest airport to Mompox town centre (~3km) is San Bernardo Airport (MMP) which is an airport for private charter.  Of course, this is not an option for everyone. 

Commercial aircraft

For commercial airlines, the nearest airport is located in Corozal, Las Brujas Airport (CZU). Upon arrival, take the bus into Sincelejo (~20mins) where you will hop onto another bus to Magangué (~1.5 hours) Then from Magangué, get onto a car ferry (chalupa) and travel to La Bodega port (~40mins). Lastly, catch a bus to Mompox (~1hour) Does it sound complicated? It involves not just flying but also ferry and buses. 

You can also travel to Mompox by land from the major cities. 

Bogota – Mompox

Direct bus from Bogota and Mompox will take approximately 14 hours. Some buses stop at El Banco, a town ~1.5 hours away from Mompox. From there, you would need to take a 4×4 to get in. 

Bucaramanga – Mompox

Direct bus between Bucaramanga and Mompox takes about 9 hours passing through El Banco. 

Cartagena – Mompox

The direct bus will take you about 6.5 hours to get between Cartagena and Mompox. Pretty straightforward and it is the shortest travelling time of all. 

Medellin – Mompox

First, travel from Medellin to Magangué will take about 11 hours. Then after, travel by car ferry to La Bodega port before making your way to Mompox by bus. It is pretty similar to flying into the nearest airport.  Travelling from Bogota or Medellin is not as straight forward and involve long hours on the road. Thus, I recommend splitting up the travels by getting Bucaramanga via direct bus first. Spend a few days exploring the vicinity before making your way to Mompox. 

Things to do in Mompox

Admire the colonial architecture buildings.

From the well-preserved 16th-century architectures in Mompox, you can tell that it once played a pivoting role during the Spanish colonial era. This architecture style features low-pitched red tiles roofs, rounded arches and asymmetrical facades. During the period, it was a thriving town with a busy commercial port for it was a prime location along River Magdalena between Andes Mountains to the north coastal region of Colombia. Unfortunately, commercial activities saw a decline in the 19th century due to the change in river transport pattern.  Today, many of the buildings are used for their original purposes which mean businesses and houses are being passed down from one generation to the next.  Take a stroll in town and let your imagination runs wild of what Mompox was like in its heyday.

Watch the sunrise

Begin the day in Mompox as you catch the first ray of sunlight right here at Albarrada del Alba and observe how the whole town comes to life. It’s magical, trust me! 

Rent a bicycle

An alternative way to explore the town is to rent a bicycle. You will be able to cover more areas under the scorching sun and ride to the outskirt of the town centre where most locals reside.  One of the shops that do rental bicycle is Sol de Agua . 

Cruising along Magdalena River

One of the highlights in Mompox is taking the afternoon boat ride on Magdalena river, one of the 2 major rivers in Colombia. Sailing past villages and take in the whole experience as the breeze hits your face gently.  Be sure to pack your swimwear as there will be a point where the boat will stop its engine at a freshwater lagoon where you can jump in for a refreshing dip. 

As you make your way back to the dock, enjoy the spectacular sunset followed by the darkness when millions of stars fill the cloudless sky. 

Places to visit in Mompox

Piedra de bolivar (bolivar’s stone).

Mompox was important not only to the Spanish during the colonial era, but also to Colombia. Simon Bolivar, a liberator of Grand Colombia (present days Colombia; Ecuador; Northern Peru; Venezuela; Panama; northwest Brazil and western Guyana) recruited 400 able-bodied men from Mopox and led them to win the wars of independence in Caracas. 

If I owe my life to Caracas, I owe my glory to Mompox Simon Bolivar

This stone marked the times that he spent in this town. 

Cementerio Municipal (Municipal Cemetery)

This well-maintained cemetery has been around since 1831 and centring the cemetery is a chapel. Enjoy a peaceful walk in this cemetery that is filled with whitewashed graves. Some were stack on top of one another making a wall of tombstones.

There are also plenty of well-fed cats that roam around the cemetery, guarding the dead and keeping them company. 

Iglesia Santa Babara (Santa Barbara Church)

For a small town, Mompox has many churches in its vicinity. You can easily pass by one as you walk along the street. With that many churches, Iglesia Santa Babara is the most outstanding with its striking yellow paint and intricate details which takes your breath away.  This baroque style gem was completed in 1733 with a balcony on the bell tower. The octagonal bell tower looked suspiciously similar to a minaret because it was said to be of Muslim-Spanish influence. Climb the tower for COP3,000 (~S$1.50) and enjoy a good view of the town. 

When entering the long hall of the church, what catches the eyes are the 3 beautiful golden altars and the crafted to perfection woodwork design at the end of the pews. 

Casa del Diablo (Devil’s house)

At first glance, it is easy to dismiss as an ordinary abandoned house. But this is not just any other abandoned house, this unassuming place has earned the nickname, Casa del Diablo which means Devil’s House. According to the locals, a devil by the name of Lucifer lives in this deserted house. One can hear noises and sight dark shadows too.  This house was a “project” that was never completed. In the 1950s, a businessman wanted to build a mansion in this prosperous town, one that was grand enough to be an attraction by itself.  He found a partner to work on this project together. He invested the money while the partner was in charge of overseeing the whole project. Unfortunately, instead of building a mansion, the partner had another idea. He harboured the plan to turn it into a brothel. To “serve” the workers in town because one has to satisfy his needs and it is a lucrative business.  One day, one of the workers slipped and fell from the scaffoldings and died. He was buried nearby. In the meantime, the businessman realised that his mansion was to be turned into a brothel. Immediately, he pulled back his investment and ordered for all work to stop. Today what is left of this project is just a filthy looking facade on a vacated building.  In the end, the businessman got what he wished for as it has become an attraction by itself. A devil’s house that draws curiosity.  It is said that if you peep into the house through a slit on Good Friday, you would see a lit candle. Will you be brave enough to check it out?  

Mompox Sign

Located at the entrance into town is the colourful mosaic Mompox sign. The best way to get here is by riding a bicycle. A great photo-stop to “mark” your visit to Mompox.

Plaza de Mercado (Market Square)

Antigua Plaza de Mercado (Old Market Square) is situated at a perfect spot. Looking out on one side is the riverbank of Magdalena River while looking inward, there is a square and the beautiful Church of the Immaculate. The building underwent a restoration in 2014 to return it back to its glory days as it has represented a historical heritage of Mompox.  There is a cafe to rest the feet and enjoy a cuppa Colombian coffee. There is also what seemed like a filigree-making workshop as well as a handicraft shop where you can purchase one made from one of the highly skilled local craftsmen.

Colegio Nacional Pinillos (Pinillos National Collage)

This school was named after the founder, Pedro Martinez de Pinillos. Completed in 1804, it has been nurturing generations of Mompoxinos ever since. 

Right In the middle of the school sits a beautiful courtyard surrounded archway and wide walkways. Truly a stunning place to pop in for a visit.

Things to buy in Mompox

Filigree jewellery .

“Filigree is a delicate kind of jewellery metalwork, usually of gold and silver, made with tiny beads or twisted threads, or both in combination, soldered together or to the surface of an object of the same metal and arranged in artistic motifs.” Wikipedia

When the Spanish colonised Colombia, there were many pirate attacks at the coastal area near Cartagena. Hence the safest place to keep golds, silvers and other treasures were in Mompox as it is a distance away.  With these treasures, they brought in craftsmen with the skills and techniques learnt from the Arabs to make filigree jewellery in Mompox.  As time goes by, the skills were passed down from generations to generation. Today, Mompox is well-known for having the finest craftsmen in filigree jewellery making.

Local Fruit Wine

Another product that Mompox is popular with is its locally made fruit wine. One, in particular, is Vino de Corozo that is made from corozo (duh!). Corozo, a small round and red fruit native to Mompox. It takes about 6 months for the fermentation process that uses only corozo and sugar. 

Festivals in Mompox

Mompox typically comes alive twice a year. 

Santa Semana (Holy week)

The religious celebration takes place in April every year. Join in the processions as Mompoxinos decorate their saints and parade on the streets to reminisce the death of Christ.

Jazz Festival

During every October, jazz musician local and from abroad come together in town for a weekend of jazz music. This is a perfect place to be for jazz lovers. 

Where to stay in Mompox

Hotel – portal de la marquesa.

Experience living in an old colonial house at this hote l situated at Albarrada del alba. It is beautifully decorated with the Spanish influence with a courtyard in the middle. It is also well-equipped with good WiFi connection, air conditioning and hot water.  To pamper yourself further, book into one of the suites that come with a private swimming pool.

Hostel – La Casa del Viajero Mompox

This hostel is a good alternative for budget travellers. Although it is about a 10 minutes walk from the town centre, the walk would allow you to catch glimpses of the local’s lives and their community. There are private rooms and 6-bedded shared rooms available. What I like about the shared dorm rooms is that they provide a locker for each person (bring your own padlock) where you can lock up your valuables. It is a basic standard hostel that comes with clean bathrooms and air-conditioning and WiFi connection.

Now, are you ready to explore this incredible Mompox in Colombia? 

*some of the photos are courtesy of  Bernard  as I lost a junk of photos from my mobile phone.

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Pamela, born and raised in Singapore. She is a dreamer, explorer, traveller and local tour guide.

A perfect day for Pam would be being on the road, having beers and endless of great conversations that shape a wider perspective.

Come say hi!

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Visit Mompox travel guide: Best things to do and see

Taylor made trip to Colombia

Would you like to travel to Colombia with a travel agency? Compare the offers of our local partners

Mompox is one of the jewels of colonial architecture in Colombia, inscribed on the World Heritage List !

It’s a somewhat mysterious destination, not so easy to get to, and certainly one of the most fantasized about on a trip to Colombia, thanks to its reputation as a village “frozen in time “.

Many of you will want to include it in your Colombian travel itinerary.

But for lovers of colonial architecture, lost villages and stories and legends, Mompox remains a my(s) thique destination for a trip to Colombia!

In this post, we’re going to make you want to go there by showing you some original ideas (or not) for visiting Mompox and telling you about the little stories that make up its charm.

Travel Poster “La Bici”

Buy our beautiful prints to get a taste of Colombia at home

General information about Mompox

Name : Santa Cruz de Mompox People : Momposinos Population : approx. 45.000 Founded : 1540 UNESCO listing : 1995 Region : Caribbean Department : Bolivar Bolivar When to go : All year round Climate : Warm and humid Average temperatures : 28°c Dry season : December to March

Disclaimer : we apologize in advance for any grammatical or syntactic errors, as our native language is not English (we're a Colombian-French couple), so we hope you'll forgive us and still enjoy the information we share with you! Please note that all the information on our blog is based on our own experience, and is checked and updated regularly.

The narrow streets of the historic center

Visit mompox travel guide.

Strolling through the historic center of Mompox is one of the most important things you can do during your stay in the sleeping beauty! In fact, it could be the only thing you do. Wander, nose to the wind, from place to place, and let time flow .

Mompox has an exceptional heritage , and the walls of the old town exude the past of a bygone era. But don’t expect anything too extensive – this isn’t Cartagena. Here, the small historic center stretches from the banks of the Rio Mompox, a tributary of the Magdalena River, over two main streets and 5 or 6 cuadras.

That’s enough for the traveler looking to slow down, the one who knows how to sit at a table and contemplate life as it goes by, the one who lets himself be overwhelmed by the tropical heat that reigns over Mompox.

Contact Flavien, english-speaking guide in Mompox

To contact Flavien directly, you can use the form below . You won't pay any more, but it will let him know you've come from us.

IMPORTANT : If you don't hear from Flavien within 72 hours, please check your SPAMS first, and then don't hesitate to contact us.

MOMPOX: A WORLD HERITAGE SITE

Mompox has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995 for its incredibly well-preserved historic center. Founded in 1540, Mompox was one of Colombia’s economic capitals thanks to its protected geographical location. The gold tax was brought here and then shipped to Spain.

Over time, the accumulation of sediments made river access increasingly complicated and, cut off from the rest of the country, the town eventually lost its lustre. In spite of its “misfortune”, this isolation has allowed the preservation of an exceptional architectural heritage, typical of the river villages of the colonial era.

Mompox cemetery

Best things to do in mompox.

The Mompox cemetery is one of the city’s most visited sites. It’s a real work of art and a curiosity in its own right.

Crossing the main avenue that marks the end of the historic center, you change territory, onto what was once the countryside. At one time, the cemetery was located on the outskirts of town. Over time, urbanization has come to surround it and eventually include it in the city.

Push open the gate to discover a small, immaculate cemetery. At the far end, a small, simple chapel welcomes visitors who have come to pay their respects. The curiosity: cats. The cemetery and chapel are filled with cats – big ones, babies, old ones, young ones, etc. – like guardians of the “passage”.

A work of art dressed all in white, the cemetery offers a harmony that makes an impact on those who come here to seek a well-deserved eternal rest. There are many stories, myths and legends surrounding the Mompox cemetery, which is why we strongly advise you to take a guided tour of historic Mompox!

THE PACT WITH THE DEVIL

In 2001, when Alfredo Serrano, the youngest son of the Serrano family, died of a heart attack, his family decided to bury him in the Mompox cemetery. Alfredo was nicknamed “El gato” for his green eyes: “Gato” means cat in Spanish.

And so began a new legend worthy of the novels of Gabriel Garcia Marquez.

The momposinos began to see a cat on a daily basis, who had taken up residence on Alfredo’s tombstone. The Serrano family regularly fed and watered her. Then the cat gave birth to kittens and, over time, the number of cats grew steadily until they invaded the cemetery.

People began to spread the rumor that the Serrano family, the familia “Los Gatos”, had made a pact with the devil, and that the proliferation of cats in the cemetery was proof of this..

Tour of the Cienaga de Pijiño

Best things to do in mompox.

The boat trip on the Cienaga de Pijiño is probably the best-known and most recognized activity if you want to do “something else” in Mompox. On this trip, you’ll discover a tiny part of one of Colombia’s most important lake systems , made up of numerous marshes, the “cienagas “, which surround the immense Rio Magdalena.

We follow the Brazo Mompox, a tributary of the Rio Magdalena, and then small canals that open onto the extensive Cienaga de Pijiño. Along the way, you can see large Iguanas , Basilisks walking on the water and Caimans drying out on the shore… children bathing a little further on… fishermen casting their nets… a whole wild and social life bustling about in this natural and rich semi-aquatic environment.

When you reach the Cienaga, the landscape opens up and you discover the ornithological wealth of the area: numerous species of birds take advantage of the unique ecosystem, including waders, kingfishers, herons, moorhens, lapwings, Jacanas and more.

PRACTICAL INFO TOUR TO LA CIENAGA DE PIJIÑO

• Price (2024): $40.000 COP / person ($50.000 COP during the dry season)
• Booking : Three operators offer this tour. To book, go to the Plaza de la Concepción at the old Market.
• Bring : camera (zoom for animals) or binoculars, swimsuit.

Visit the Cienaga de Pijiño in english

To contact Flavien directly, you can use the form below . You won’t pay any more, but it will let him know you’ve come from us.

IMPORTANT : If you don’t hear from Flavien within 72 hours, please check your SPAMS first, and then don’t hesitate to contact us.

Cycling in Mompox

If we’re talking about cycling in Mompox, it’s not because it’s a very practical means of transport for visiting the town, but it’s mainly because bicycles are widely used by Mompoxians themselves!

What’s striking at first glance is that the momposino bikes are real collector’s items ! We had a great time taking a whole gallery of photos, each one more fun than the last, on the theme of bicycles.

So if you don’t feel like getting on the two wheels yourself, the game at Mompox could also be counting old bikes!

It really is a kind of tradition that reflects the Mompox way of life. It’s a quiet and peaceful way to get around.

Contact Flavien, English-speaking guide in Mompox

LA BICI” POSTER

Remembering all the bicycles in Mompox clearly inspired us to create one of our illustrated posters of Colombia , which you can find in our shop ! “La Bici” is our interpretation of the unique atmosphere of the Caribbean region between Cartagena and Mompox, its colors and its colonial past.

The most beautiful tree in Mompox

It’s one of the many sights of Mompox, a gigantic Hevea tree enthroned in the middle of a colonial patio… The rubber tree, said to be over 150 years old, is located inside the Hostel Doña Manuela , which by the way is only a hostel in name, since it’s a beautiful upmarket hotel.

The hotel is an old colonial house, built in the 17th century and recently renovated with the help of Colombia’s Ministry of Industry and Commerce for its exceptional architectural character, like all the colonial houses in the historic center at the same time!

The tree is lit up in the evening, and you can get married in the heart of its trunk, but above all you can come and admire it for free, just by asking nicely at reception.

For the record, contrary to what you might think, it’s not the oldest tree in Mompox!

MOMPOX’S OLDEST TREE

This honorary title belongs to the “arbol de Suán”. Legend has it that the Liberator Simón Bolívar, when he arrived in Mompox in 1812, tied his horse to this tree before going to inform the Momposinos of his plans to liberate the nation.

Historical guided tour of Mompox

Best things to do.

We stayed 3 days in Mompox and will tell you more about our experience in a future post, but we had long planned to take the historical tour offered by Luis Alfredo , the “star” of Mompox guides with whom we regularly exchanged.

Luis Alfredo has always been passionate about history, from his early childhood when he devoured books, and you can sense his passion and desire to share the history of his native village. We can only recommend that you take this tour with Luis Alfredo!

The tour consists of a stroll through the historic center of Mompox to learn all about its history, its main monuments and a few myths and legends! The tour ends with a visit to a filigree workshop.

It’s a visit we really recommend if you want to understand a bit about Mompox! Of course, this is a tour for Spanish-speakers, but Luis Alfredo told us that an English-speaking translator was also available for those who so wished.

GUIDED TOUR OF MOMPOX in english

Take advantage of our english interpreter Flavien to accompany you on Alfredo’s guided tours.

If you speak Spanish, you can contact Alfredo directly for a guided tour of Mompox via Whatsapp at 56 310 351 3606

The churches of Mompox

As you may know, during the colonial era, the principle of founding a village was always the same: create a “plaza mayor”, a main square, build a church and then develop the village around it.

Mompox is unique in having seen no less than 3 “founding” plazas and 6 churches built within a perimeter of just a few hundred meters! A visit to Mompox is an opportunity to play church-hunting!

Santa Barbara Church (1613)

This is surely the most unusual church in Mompox, with its bell tower, balcony and three windows. It is said to owe its name and architecture to the Turkish legend of Santa Barbara of Izmir, patron saint of storms, who was murdered in her tower.

San Agustin church (1606)

A minor basilica founded by the Augustinians, this church stands out for its Christ on the Cross, which is of historical importance to the faithful and to Colombian culture. It is one of the relics proudly carried in procession during the (very) important Holy Week festivities in Mompox.

Santo Domingo Church (1544)

Built by the Dominicans, this church is decorated in Mompox’s traditional yellow and white, but stands out for its large green doors. It features the altar of the Virgin of the Rosary. It marks the end of Mompox’s historic center.

San Francisco de Asis Church (1580)

Founded by the Franciscans, this is the only church not to display the Mompox colors. In fact, it does as it pleases, adorning itself in red! Inside, you’ll find magnificent, perfectly preserved wooden altarpieces. Right next to the river, the plaza features the famous saxophone sculpture in tribute to the Mompox Jazz Festival.

Imaculada Concepción Church (1540)

This was the first church built in Mompox. All white with red domes, it stands proudly in the square of the same name, opposite the old market by the river.

San Juan de Dios Church (1545)

This is perhaps the church that has survived the longest, with its slightly dilapidated yellow-and-white facade. Its altar shows the influence of the Romanesque style, with Doric and Corinthian motifs.

Now it’s your turn to find each of these churches! Not all of them are always open, but if you can, don’t hesitate to respectfully enter and explore the interiors.

Most of them continue to be lively places of worship, with daily masses.

Making queso de capa

Thanks to our guide Luis Alfredo, we were lucky enough to meet Lucho . And meeting Lucho was something we won’t soon forget! We’ll tell you all about it soon.

Lucho is a producer and seller of “Queso de Capa” , another of Mompox’s pride and joys. This “cheese in a layer” is one of Mompox’s traditional products. We could also mention “Vino de Corozo”, which we tasted in a store.

There’s nothing exceptional about this cheese in itself, but the moment of sharing it is exceptional! As always when we “go to the other side”, when we meet producers and artisans and they share their daily lives and know-how with us. It’s always so enriching to learn about the local culture from someone like Lucho, and to value local traditions. It’s also a great way to support their work and their families by buying their products.

As you can see, for us, this is an unmissable experience at Mompox! And in general, as with the watermark, we strongly advise you to discover the trades, skills and crafts of those who make them every day!

Contact Flavien, english-speaking guide at Mompox

Filigree workshops.

Filigrana is the craft that continues to make Mompox the country’s goldsmith capital . And here’s another story typical of Colombia and its skilful blend of origins.

Mompox filigree is the result of a fusion of two goldsmithing heritages : the indigenous tradition (check out Bogotá’s gold museum!) and the Arab tradition brought by the Andalusian Spaniards.

Often described as “the art of patience” , you have to go into a workshop and watch the goldsmiths at work to fully understand its meaning. The basis of every piece is a simple silver wire, shaped by hand to produce unique pieces of breathtaking lightness.

Mompox filigree is an art recognized across the country and around the world. We love the finesse of these jewels, and to tell the truth, we couldn’t help but make (ourselves) a few gifts!

There are plenty of stores selling filigree jewelry, but try to find a real workshop where you can exchange ideas and learn a little about the manufacturing process. Otherwise, the ideal solution is to take a guided tour that takes you right up close to the goldsmiths, so you can ask them all your questions.

Contact Flavien, English-speaking guide at Mompox

Gabo and mompox.

Mompox is often referred to as the “Macondo” that inspired Gabriel Garcia Marquez to write One Hundred Years of Solitude. But this is also said of Cienaga, Aracataca and many other Caribbean villages..

What is certain, however, is that Gabo never set foot in Mompox!

His wife Mercedes, on the other hand, was originally from Magangué and studied at San Francisco College in Mompox. Legend has it that Mercedes’ family were goldsmiths who made little golden fish… those who have read One Hundred Years of Solitude will understand the reference.

In the end, the legend tells us that Gabo never came to Mompox, but that through his wife Mercedes, a whole Mompoxian mythology shines through in the Macondo of his river-novel!

Mompox Jazz Festival

A national event.

Along with Holy Week, this is THE highlight of the year in Mompox. An event that brings thousands of people to town and has made it one of Colombia’s most important jazz festivals in recent years.

The festival offers a varied program, from Colombian jazzmen to young international talents, with always one or two headliners not to be missed, and other musical genres represented too.

During the festival, the whole city is abuzz with free concerts, parades and traditional music – in short, it’s a party! And the icing on the cake: all concerts are free!

The Mompox Jazz Festival takes place every year in early September . So it’s a date to consider if it coincides with your itinerary.

Either you’re interested, and this is your chance to take part in one of Mompox’s major events, or you’re not, and we’d advise you to avoid going to Mompox during this period, as the town and hotels are full!

English-speaking guide in Mompox

Where to stay in mompox.

We spent 3 days in Mompox in a very nice hotel in the heart of the city center, which we recommend: the Bioma Hotel . If you’re not sure, you can go there with your eyes closed, it’s perfect.

That said, there are plenty of other good options, so here’s our advice on where to stay in Mompox

Please note : If you plan to visit Mompox during Holy Week or the Jazz Festival, make sure you book well in advance!

Mompox, the best hotels

Casa Amarilla

Double room : $150.000 to $200.000 COP

Located just a stone’s throw from the Santa Barbara church, Casa Amarilla is a well-known Mompox hotel. With relatively affordable prices, the hotel offers excellent facilities. The staff’s warm welcome is particularly noteworthy!

La casa del viajero hostal

Dormitory : $25.000 to $50.000 / Double room : $0 to $100.000 COP

A welcoming and comfortable hostal in Mompox to get the most out of the city at a low price. Dormitory beds are very affordable, and the hostal also offers double rooms.

Hotel Bioma

Double room : $250.000 to $300.000 COP

This is where we stayed during our stay in Mompox. Hotel Bioma is perfect for those who want to treat themselves. With its blend of colonial and modern decor, swimming pool on the patio and roof-top overlooking the rooftops of Mompox, it offers top-notch services. To top it all off, the Arepa de Huevo breakfast is delicious!

how to get to mompox

“ Por Mompox no se pasa, a Mompox se llega” ! If Mompox was once considered a kind of river island, inaccessible by road, today it’s a different story. It can be reached from the north or south, and since 2020 and the opening of a new bridge, it is now possible to reach Mompox by road from Cartagena or Sincelejo without having to take the ferry.

From Cartagena

Some may miss the days when it was only possible to reach Mompox from Cartagena by boat. Today, buses make the journey direct , and the new bridge makes it even easier.

BUS | Cartagena <>Mompox (6h) Fare : approx. $86.000 COP Company : Unitransco Departures : 7:30 a.m. and 2 p.m. from Cartagena/6 a.m. from Mompox

CAR | Cartagena <> Mompox (6h) Take direction Magangue, then the new bridge to Mompox

From Sincelejo

Sincelejo is the closest airport to Mompox , so it’s a good option if you’re looking to come to Mompox from a distant Colombian town.

BUS | Sincelejo <>Mompox (3h) Fare : approx. $80.000 COP Companies : Torcoroma Departures : to be arranged locally

CAR | Sincelejo <> Mompox (3h) Head towards El Bongo, then turn off towards Magangue, then over the new bridge towards Mompox

From Barranquilla

From Barranquilla, there are direct buses to Mompox. By car, you can choose between two different routes.

BUS | Barranquilla <>Mompox (8h) Fare : approx. $100.000 COP Company : Unitransco Departures : 7.30 am and 10.30 am from Barranquilla / 6 am and 11 am from Mompox

CAR | Barranquilla <> Mompox (6h) Two options for reaching Mompox by car from Barranquilla: – either head towards Magangue, then take the new bridge towards Mompox – or take Cienaga, Bosconia and then Mompox

From Santa Marta

There doesn’t seem to be a direct bus service to Mompox from Santa Marta. The easiest option would seem to be to take a bus to Barranquilla and from there take the direct bus to Mompox.

BUS | Santa Marta <> Barranquilla (2h) Fare : between $25.000 and $30.000 COP Companies : Copetran, Unitransco

BUS | Barranquilla <> Mompox (8h) Fare : around $100.000 COP Companies : Unitransco Departures : 7:30 a.m. and 10:30 a.m. from Cartagena / 6 a.m. and 11 a.m. from Mompox

CAR | Santa Marta <> Mompox (6h) Head towards Bosconia, then turn off towards Mompox

From Bucaramanga

If you want to get to Mompox directly from Bucaramanga, it’s possible – just be aware that it’s a long way.

BUS | Bucaramanga <> Mompox (8h) Fare : approx. $80.000 COP Company : Copetran Departures : 6:30 a.m., 10 a.m., 9:45 p.m. (night bus)

CAR | Bucaramanga <> Mompox (8h) This is the route we took. Everything’s OK up to El Banco, then we turn off towards Mompox and the road turns into a track in poor condition. It’s best to leave early to avoid arriving at night on this part of the route.

The 100 sphalt road would be to climb to Bosconia and then descend to Mompox. Longer, but more comfortable.

Useful addresses in Mompox

Practical guide to mompox.

The gastronomic offer in Mompox is increasingly important with the rise in tourism. You’ll find restaurants to suit all budgets, offering street food, local gastronomy or more European dishes.

Here are our recommended restaurants in Mompox :

El Comedor Costeño

On Mompox’s malecon, by the river, you’ll find a number of restaurants serving dishes typical of the region’s popular cuisine. For us, it was El Comedor Costeño , and it was good.

If you’re not in the mood for local food at all and want a change, then you can go for a good pizza or grilled sausages at el Austriaco (the Austrian). It’s a nice place and the food is good.

Plaza Santo Domingo

If the square is empty during the day, Plaza Santo Domingo has a completely different atmosphere in the evening. Street food and a popular atmosphere.

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Mompóx, Colombia, a pueblo frozen in time

Sometimes, I use affiliate/sponsored links with my recommendations, which if bought through might earn me a few pennies at absolutely no extra cost to you . This helps with the cost of keeping this site alive so I can continue to guide you on your travels. Please remember that I would never ever ever recommend anything I don’t or wouldn’t use myself. Big thanks to each and every one of you who have trusted my recommendations so far! Lozzy x

Mompóx, Colombia (pronounced MomPOSH or MomPOSS, and confusingly sometimes spelt Mompós) is a town frozen in time. Beautiful yellow colonial architecture, cobbled streets and chalupa longboats taxi-ing people across the river make this a special place to see for yourself. Though it’s been on people’s travel radars for a while, there aren’t many tourists in the town still. When you read on to the “ How to get to Mompox ” section, you’ll understand why.

There aren’t many things to do in Mompox, and for some on a tight travel schedule the effort of getting there doesn’t equate to the value of being there. However, for us it was the perfect chance to escape city life, mill around and recharge our batteries for our next round of travels.

After reading this guide to Mompox, Colombia, you may also be interested in:

• Complete guide to Cartagena
• Best restaurants in Cartagena in 2021
• Visiting Isla Barú from Cartagena

P.S. Sadly, we’re having to sell our souls to SEO at this point, and since people are far more likely to google Mompox without an accent (who even knows how to find those on a keyboard?!) we’re going to be writing it as ‘Mompox’, not ‘Mompóx’, from now on. Spanish-speakers and pedants, we are eternally sorry.

Want to skip to something in particular?

Where is Mompox, Colombia?

In the Northern department of Bolivar (though also on the border with the Magdalena department), Mompox sits on Colombia’s largest inland island, Isla Margerita. It’s separated from the mainland by the Magdalena river. This made it a very important town back in the day, though it was eventually dwarfed by Magangué downriver.

It took us approximately 9 hours to get from Cartagena to Mompox, even though they’re in the same department. It wasn’t terrible though, as the bus/boat route from Cartagena to Mompox was one of the most interesting we’ve travelled in Colombia, with terrain transforming from Caribbean coastlines to rice fields and flat marshland.

Prepare to see a Colombia you hadn’t imagined before!

How to get to Mompox Colombia

Well, isn’t this just a joy? The journey to get to this part of Colombia is not for those who like to travel fast, and the only way to travel to Mompox time-efficiently is to let an overnight bus take you while you sleep.

This is Colombia off the beaten path, so it takes more effort to reap the rewards!

The coming section on how to get to Mompox is going to be a bit complicated, so bear with us.

How to get to Mompox from Cartagena

1. take a taxi to the cartagena bus terminal.

Helpfully, the Cartagena bus terminal is nowhere near the walled centre of Cartagena so you’ll need to find private transport to get there with all your stuff. It’s not situated in a particularly pleasant area so it should not be a journey that you attempt to walk.

The taxi will take you around 45-60 minutes, traffic-dependent.

2. Buy a bus ticket to Magangué at the Brasilia/Unitransco desk

Contrary to what our hostel told us, these buses do not run ‘all day long’. We bought tickets for the 8:30am for 25k each; the only other option was 9pm (which would have gone directly to Mompox, but it’s only 6.5 hours away so you arrive at silly o’clock – not ideal in a small town in rural Colombia).

Costeño also have this route a few desks down, so check if their times are better for you.

We really need to get better at taking phone photos whilst running for the bus. 

3. From Magangué, get a taxi to the port

As soon as you get off the bus, there will be a crowd of excitable taxi drivers asking passengers where they want to go – though to be fair if you stand out as a tourist in any way they’ll immediately suggest ‘El Puerto?’.

Lots of these taxi guys are actually moped drivers; if you feel comfortable riding a moped with your luggage then it will work out cheaper – just note that the ride is about 15 minutes long on busy main roads and there will be no helmet offered.

Don’t be hesitant to ask for a car instead, there will be plenty ready to take you to the port for 8k COP.

4. At the port, buy a chalupa ticket to Bodega

Once at the port, head to the ticket office to the very top right of the terminal, near the doors to the river. This chalupa boat ride is 15-20 minutes and will cost you 9k.

The last chalupa boat leaves at 5pm, but there’s not really anything to see in Magangué that would keep you from going directly from the bus to the port.

The chalupas operate as colectivos, so there’s no telling how long they take to fill up and leave. We were pretty bummed to see we were the first people on a new boat of 25 or so, but we only had to wait 20 minutes in the end for enough passengers to buy tickets for our chalupa.

Once you’ve bought your place on the boat, you have the option to wait in the terminal to be called, but since we almost missed this whilst sitting there like lemons we recommend that you instead head down to the river and just sit on the chalupa until it fills up.

5. Grab a taxi to get to Mompox from Bodega

Now, the last leg of your journey, getting a taxi to Mompox once you landed at Bodega. The roads are pretty rough most of the way, so the journey will be a slow 45 minutes.

Again, there are moto taxis available, but we’d recommend getting a colectivo car taxi.

How to get to Mompox from Bogota

There are day and night buses that go directly to Mompox from Bogotá Terminal Salitre, or to nearby El Banco, from which you’ll need to take an hour 4×4 ride to the town. Note that the buses tend to be slower than expected, so the 14 hours journey was actually 19 hours on our return to Bogotá.

To get back to Bogotá, you can buy bus tickets at the Copetran terminal, behind the cemetery, or online at redbus.com (you’ll still need to go to the Copetran desk to validate your ticket just before getting on the bus).

In case you were expecting something official-looking, this is the terminal:

A lot of people actually warned us against this bus, saying the roads were too bad, but in our opinion it felt a much safer and more comfortable bus ride than some of the hair-raising experiences we’ve had on buses around Antioquia or Quindío .

Admittedly we were put a little on edge when the bus driver asked the passengers to join him in a group prayer, stating “ I alone do not have the skill to drive this bus from Mompox to Bogota, I need Jesus to drive with me ”. Thankfully, Jesus did indeed take the wheel, and ‘ Los extranjeros ’ (that’s us) did get a special shout-out in the blessings, so we’ve got give the guy some credit.

How to get to Mompox from Medellín

Expreso Brasilia and Rápido Ochoa are bus companies that both offer 11 hour night buses from Medellín Terminal del Sur to Magangué.

From there, you’d have to get the chalupa to Bodega and then taxi to the town, as laid out in the ‘Mompox from Cartagena’ step 4 section above.

The other option is to get a 9 hour bus to Aguachica and then another bus to El Banco, then get to Mompox via taxi, but the times that this would get you into Aguachica would noooot be too pleasant, as it leaves from Medellín at 4:45pm.

How to get to Mompox by plane

While there is no public-use airport at Mompox, the other option is to fly to the town’s vicinity via Corazol Las Brujas Airport near Sincelejo, get a colectivo to Magangué and then continue the journey to Mompox via chalupa and taxi as above.

If doing this on the return, you need to factor in the fact that colectivos can take hours to leave if no one turns up to fill them, so book a later flight and get started on your journey to the airport as early as possible.

Safety in Mompox

According to some Colombians, the Magdalena area has a reputation for sexual assaults. We still got to know plenty of comfortable solo female travellers there; just remember to be extra vigilant.

We met a Colombian girl travelling solo as a tourist who arrived at Bodega late, and instead of a mototaxi she opted to hitch a lift with a delivery van to her destination, because she was worried about the area’s reputation and felt that he was more restricted to main roads than moto taxis. We’re not sure we’d 100% recommend this plan of action, but liked her initiative!

Walking around the town at night, things did feel small-town safe in the centre. Further out, the areas are decidedly less pristine and public funding is very obviously cut sharply, so just take normal precautions if you venture away from the historical centre after dark.

Generally, we felt completely comfortable in Mompox, and although the locals seemed to stare at us a lot, they were all extremely welcoming. We found ourselves strolling around town dropping ‘Buenas’s like they were going out of fashion.

Things to do in Mompox, Colombia

There’s not a lot of things to do in Mompox, really, but that’s kind of the beauty of it. We came across a few people who had planned a 4-5 day stay because it takes so damn long to get there but left after 2 days because of lack of things to do.

As suggestions, we’ll list a few things to do in Mompox for you, but other than these, do not feel guilty at merely sitting back and soaking up those small town vibes.

1. Take a river cruise

Due to its place on the delta of the Magdalena river, Mompox is a great spot to come to for bird watchers.

The best way to catch sight of some winged wonder is to embark on a bird-watching river cruise for 60,000 COP.

2. Cycle out into the countryside

In several places in Mompox, you can rent bikes to explore nearby towns. The countryside is generally flat and dusty-roaded, and the neighbouring villages tend to be friendly.

Not far from the town, you’ll start to see people’s way of life become very rustic, complete with straw roofs and washing clothes in the Magdalena river.

3. Admire the architecture

Hard to miss in Mompox! Stroll around all the stunning churches of the town, making sure you also take some time to see the beautiful cemetery.

Colombians are big fans of crypts and mausoleums over burials which makes their tributes to the dead all the more awe-inspiring.

Where to stay in Mompox, Colombia

There’s not a huge amount of choice for places to stay in Mompox, nor any extreme budget options, but there are a few nice-looking hotels to consider, such as the famous Casa Amarilla or Portal de la Marquesa with its beautiful patio, and also a couple of hostels.

We stayed in Pueblito Mágico , which we had mixed feelings about. The common areas are really beautifully put together, with both indoor and outdoor spaces to relax. The room we were given – the ensuite double right next to reception – was incredible, but we had a peek in at the other double for the same price and the dorm rooms and they looked pretty cramped and dank. 

Our room was spotless but the kitchen didn’t feel so clean, nor well-equipped. The owner was away and one of the remaining staff was a new volunteer, so although very friendly knew absolutely nothing about the hostel or local area. The other member of staff did his best not to do any work or answer questions fully.

This led to some mix-ups with a couple of people’s travel plans that they tried to arrange through the hostel. The hostel also ran out of drinking water for a couple of days as they kept forgetting to buy a new tank.

Pueblito Mágico hostel was good enough for what we needed in Mompox, but a few tweaks could really transform the place. The location is really perfect, riverside and right next to one of the Mompox’s prettiest churches:

If we had our time in Mompox, Colombia, again, we’d probably opt to stay at Casa Isabelita because JUST LOOK AT WHAT A BEAUTY THAT IS. Nicely located with one of the lower price points of places to stay in Mompox.

Where to eat & drink in Mompox

It may not be very traditionally Colombian, but Luna de Mompox is a wonderful little curbside restaurant in a quiet plaza. The pizzas are great and it’s very popular with locals.

For coffee and/or breakfast, Sol de Agua Café is a must. Wifi is strong here so it’s the perfect place to head to if you need to get some work done with views of the river.

What’s the Mompox climate like?

Now, Mompox is HAWT, like 36 degrees Celsius hot, so if you were uncomfortable in Cartagena you just wait.

At night it’s the ideal temperature to sit on a veranda with some beers, so use that thought to get you through the day.

How long to stay in Mompox, Colombia: 2-3 days

Now you’ve reached the end of this guide to Mompox, Colombia, you may also be interested in:

• Ultimate guide to your time in Cartagena, Colombia
• Visiting Isla Barú from Cartagena, Colombia

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Last Updated on 20 May 2022 by Cuppa to Copa Travels

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1 thought on “mompóx, colombia, a pueblo frozen in time”.

I dont know how old the article is, but I was in Mompox 2021 and there were direct busses going to from Cartagena Terminal de Transporte.

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Mompox: Chronicle of a town forgotten My impressions, Hotels, Tours, Transport

The long thin “chalupa” boat sliced through the Magdalena River as its propellers spewed up brown murky water.

Sat at the rear of the boat I tried to work out if the right-hand curve up ahead would bring the already perilously close muddy water flying into my face.

As it happened the only moisture on my person as the chalupa docked at the tiny town of Bodega was the copious amount of sweat that the intense afternoon heat had drawn from my body.

About a dozen of the locals swarmed around the boat as the passengers disembarked offering taxi and motorcycle transportation. There was no need to mention the name of the destination as there was only one place to go on this large island trapped between two branches of Colombia’s largest river.

It would be about an hour along a bumpy road to the small town of Mompox (also known as Mompos) .

Despite sounding like a terrible disease of a bygone age, Mompox is actually a charming colonial town on the bank of a branch of the Magdalena River. Founded way back in 1537 as a port from which to transport goods into the interior of the country, Mompox quickly flourished.

Iglesia de San Agustin

Gradually over the years the river has deposited silt along the Mompox arm of the Magdalena river and the river has shifted its course to the west. Unable to pass along the Mompox branch boats began to change route passing by Magangue on the Chicagua branch of the river. As a result, Mompox’s importance as a trading port dwindled.

The Mompox I observed on arrival was of a quiet, sleepy town. It was in this modern mellow version of the town in which Gabriel Garcia Marquez famously set his novel “Chronicle of a Death Foretold” .

Whereas centuries past Mompos had been one of the country’s most important trade hubs, nowadays its residents make their crust selling snacks and cell phone minutes on street corners.

There are also signs that tourism, while still very much in its infancy, is becoming an increasingly important source of employment.

Mompos even has a backpacker hostel. La Casa Amarilla , opened in 2008 by Britisher Richard McColl, attracts a steady trickle of travellers into its colonial quarters. As well as running La Casa Amarilla, Richard also dedicates himself to working as a travel guide and journalist. Needless to say, there is no shortage of information and advice at this hostel.

View from La Casa Amarilla terrace, Mompox

However, despite the slight increase in tourism, the relatively awkward access to Mompox is likely to keep the majority of travellers away, which will probably please the small number of travellers who do find their way here. After all, it’s a little harder to imagine stepping into a Gabriel Garcia Marquez novel whilst surrounded by large groups of Aussie or Israeli backpackers.

So after ten minutes cooling off in my air-conditioned room in La Casa Amarilla I step out onto the sun-bleached streets of Mompox.

Much of Mompox could just as easily be a number of Colombian colonial towns. What sets it apart from the likes of Barichara and Santa Fe de Antioquia is its location. And the heat.

Riverside street, Mompox

As I stroll around the back streets I’m struck by how deserted they are. It’s Tuesday afternoon and even on the town’s main roads there is barely a person or vehicle to be seen.

The colonial quarter of Mompos, roughly a rectangle 10 blocks by 2 blocks running along the river, can easily be covered in an hour, but many of the buildings and plazas are so charming that you can’t help but stop and nosey around for a while.

The night brings a little relief from the heat, but not much. I take an evening wander down to Plaza de Santo Domingo for a bite to eat. I approach one of the fast food carts parked on the small, but busy plaza and order a hot dog. “Easy on the sauce” I say. Colombian Hot Dogs tend to be drowned in a rainbow of sauces from pineapple to mustard, barbeque to ketchup.

“Holandes?” the vendor enquires.

The typical “Usted es Gringo?” gets a bit tiresome, so I’m always pleasantly surprised when someone makes a guess at a nationality, and the more obscure the better.

“Britanico” I respond.

“Ahh. Manchester United!” And we discuss football for the few minutes it takes to cook and then adorn my Hot Dog with the usual paraphernalia (onions, small potato chips, lettuce, tomato and then the sauces).

After finishing my hot dog I pop across the street to call a friend back in Medellin on one of the public cell phones they have in most small shops in Colombia. I try twice, but there’s no answer. I hand the phone back and thank the shopkeeper. He motions for me to wait and dials the number himself. No answer. I say “Thanks, It’s OK” and start walking off. “Espera!” (Wait!) implores the shopkeeper and redials. I repeat my thanks and wander off. Even after a block or two I’m half expecting the shopkeeper to run down the street screaming “Come back! He’s answered!!”

I stroll back to the hostel along the riverside passing youngsters stealing kisses in the balmy gloom under the overhanging trees.

The following day I organise a trip into the nearby swamps for the afternoon. I take another walk through the town. I’m stopped by a young man who tells me to wait for a few seconds while he rushes off to get his cousin – “ the most knowledgeable guide in Mompos”.

When he arrives, his cousin makes his pitch and including a claim to know the story behind every one of the doors in the town. Impressive stuff, but I politely decline for the time being taking his number just in case.

Plaza de la Inmaculada Concepcion

After lunching on a delicious Bocachico fish served with coconut rice and patacones (thick fried plantain pancakes is probably the best way to describe them), I head back to the hostel for my tour rendezvous. As I’m crossing the Plaza de la Inmaculada Concepcion a young chap rushes over to me. “Are you going on the boat tour?” he asks.

He tells me his name is Jose and that he’s on his way to collect a Colombian couple who are also coming. He says we are certain of seeing Iguanas, monkeys and literally thousands of birds! “No birds, no money!” he confidently states.

On the tour Jose regales us with stories of Mompox’s colourful history. Barely have we left the town when he spots a huge iguana lying restfully on the riverbank. As we swing round to get a closer look we scramble for our cameras in fear that this may be the only iguana we see on the trip. We needn’t have worried. During the three and half hours of the tour we must have seen about 50 of the creatures.

Iguana near Mompox

Slightly downstream we turn off the Magdalena River and into a small narrow tributary. At various points we are forced to bash our way through thick plants growing on the surface of the wetlands.

In between warning us of sharp branches crashing through the boat, Jose spots an eagle and a howler monkey in the distance. He claps and shouts in an attempt to force the animals into revealing themselves, a technique which actually seems to work quite well, as the eagle launches itself up into the air in full view.

We visit a couple of islands in the middle of the swamps. On the first small island, perhaps just a few hundred square meters, is a single house where I’m told two families live. We take a look around and I’m treated to the most delicious mango I have ever eaten. The fruit was bright orange and had the consistency of a slush puppy. I practically suck the flesh of the seed with the sweet juice oozing down my chin.

View of swamps near Mompox

We board the boat and head for the second island. Jose and the captain of the boat discuss possibilities with the local women. The captain moans that there are no single women on the next island. “There are now,” states Jose, “the mother…” The captain still doesn’t seem particularly interested though, and within a few minutes we arrive at the second island.

This island is bigger than the previous one. And it is here that we get a good look at some howler monkeys . Jose cautiously moves around a tree, his head cocked upwards, his eyes roaming. He stops. “There!” he whispers. We look, none of us see anything. Jose launches a few stones up into the tree and as the poor monkeys flee to safety we spot them, at least four or five. Through the zoom in my camera I see one of the monkeys peering back down at us, perhaps wondering when the next bombardment of stones would begin.

As we set off back towards Mompox the sun begins to set, giving the sky a spectacular orange glow and casting long shadows across the swamp. “It’s going to rain tonight,” proclaims Jose.

By now the iguanas have moved high up into the trees where they sleep making them more visible. We also pass a tree with about 7 howler monkeys perched atop a large bare branch.

Howler monkeys near Mompox

Then the birds start to appear. Hundreds of yellow and black birds flutter around and more follow as Jose once again begins clapping his hands loudly.

We force our way back onto the Magdalena River and Mompox comes into view in the distance as the sky continues to turn a darker orange.

Spectacular sunset over swamp near Mompox

After a saying “Chao” to Jose and the Captain I walk up to the third floor terrace in the Casa Amarilla to enjoy the final stages of the sun’s colourful descent below the horizon. With the sky bathed in vibrant reds and oranges a Frenchman staying at the hostel pokes his head through the door, takes one look at the sky and mystifyingly says “Looks like I’m too late,” and then heads back downstairs.

That night, as I watch a DVD on the hostel TV, it begins to rain heavily (some impressive meteorological predicting by Jose!). By the time I wander through the courtyard to my room the sky is a constant flickering of white light. I don’t think I’ve ever seen anything quite like it before. There are probably at least 5 flashes a second. I stare up at this remarkable celestial lightshow for several minutes before retiring to bed.

The following morning I bid farewell to La Casa Amarilla and Mompox. I was on my way to the coastal city of Santa Marta, a trip that would take approximately 7 hours.

I took a motorbike taxi to the small town of Santa Ana . At two stages along the road youngsters held a rope across the width of the street and asked for a contribution from the passing drivers. It seemed from what I could tell that the contribution was for helping to clear the road after the heavy rains of the last few weeks, although I wasn’t sure.

To reach Santa Ana, the departure point for buses to Santa Marta, I had to take a short ferry ride across the river. A couple of young lads pushed the boat out into the deeper waters of the river before the motors were started and I was carried across to the other side of the Magdalena River for the final time.

About an hour so before reaching Santa Marta I saw signposts for Aracataca, birthplace of Gabriel Garcia Marquez, and supposedly the inspiration for another of his famous novels “One Hundred Years of Solitude”.

I’ve never been to Aracataca, but I struggle to believe it could be as magical a place as Mompox.

For more photos see my Gallery of Photos of Mompox .

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Santa Cruz de Mompox

• 1 Understand
• 3 Get around

Santa Cruz de Mompox (also known as Mompox or Mompós) is a city and a UNESCO World Heritage site in Bolívar , Colombia .

Understand [ edit ]

Mompox (often spelt Mompós) is a friendly, sleepy town on an island on the Magdalena River, which thrived during colonial times as it was the main resting port for ships travelling up the Magdalena from Cartagena to Honda. It has beautiful colonial architecture which rivals Villa de Leyva ’s. The historic centre of Mompox was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995.

Mompox used to be isolated on an island in the Magdalena river and was only accessible by ferry, but since March 2020 a set of bridges around 12 kilometres long (called the Reconciliación bridge) now span the Magdalena, reducing travel time from the Caribbean coast by some 3 hours. This means that by far the best way to travel to Mompox is by road from Cartagena or Santa Marta. Nevertheless, it is not on the usual backpacker route, and most Colombian tourism is concentrated around religious festivals, Christmas and Holy Week in particular. Outside of these periods, prices for accommodation are reasonable, and the town still feels like a hidden gem.

You should plan to stay overnight for at least one night, ideally more. It is a town for relaxed strolling along the pedestrianized river-front, for taking a river tour along the Magdalena, and for drinking in the sleepy, sultry atmosphere. The climate throughout the Magdalena Medio valley is hot and humid, so accommodation with air conditioning is highly recommended. Also bring insect repellent, as the river is rich with highly diverse insect life. While most don't bite, they can be annoying through their sheer numbers if they land on you, especially at dusk.

Get in [ edit ]

Please note that because Mompox is now connected to the Ruta del Sol highway by the new Reconciliación Bridge (a sight in its own right), some of the travel information below is now of date, and travel times are much shorter.

• From/to Valledupar or Maicao , there are some early morning buses which take the ferry straight to Mompox with Cotracegua (6 hours from Valledupar, COP$30,000).
• From/to Medellin , you need to travel to Magangué via Sincelejo. Then take a chalupa across the river, and take the short trip to Mompox.
• From/to Cartagena , you can catch the Unitransco bus that come directly from Cartagena to Mompox and includes the ferry trip or you can opt for a later bus to Magangue and then do the chalupa and taxi combo from there. The Unitransco bus leaves Mompox for Cartagena at around 6am and you need to confirm the day before if indeed it is leaving at all!
• From/to Bogotá and Bucaramanga , the best route is probably via El Banco. Then from El Banco catch a 4x4 to mompox.
• From/to Santa Marta or Taganga , there is a "puerta-a-puerta" daily shuttle usually leaving at 3AM or 1PM in Taganga and 30 minutes later in Santa Marta. Travel time is anywhere between 7 and 12 hours depending on weather, traffic and number of people to pick up and drop off. In Taganga, you can book this shuttle at Casa Felipe or Hostel Moramar. Prices: COP$50,000 (from Santa Marta) - COP$60,000 (from Taganga).

As of 2024, it is no longer possible to go by public boat to Barranquilla.

It’s also possible to fly to Mompox if you have a private plane.

Get around [ edit ]

Mompox is small. Mototaxis take passengers to any point with the town for 600 COP. Note that they may take several passengers to different places at the same time, so they are unlikely to take you directly to your destination.

See [ edit ]

There are various colonial churches, of which the Iglesia de Santa Barbara is probably the most famous as it appears on many representative photos of Mompox. It is unusual in that it has a Moorish-style tower with a balcony. Most of the churches only open for mass, which is unfortunate. The best time to take photos of most of the churches is in the morning, as their facades are not in the shade.

Walk around the streets of the colonial center and along the river front, which are all very beautiful. If it’s too hot, you can arrange an hour’s tour of Mompox on a mototaxi (COP$10,000); it’s also a good way to get your bearings and if you’re lucky, learn some of the local history.

• There's a museum on the Calle Real del Medio.
• The former botanical gardens are now permanently closed due to lack of funding. Information is retained here for historical reasons, or in case you can persuade someone to show you round! The botanical gardens appear, at first sight, to be rather unkept and overgrown. The principal reason to visit this place may be to talk to the guide, Don Ernesto, who resembles a living encyclopedia with his extensive knowledge about all the plants and trees in the garden, including their medicinal properties. Although this man has never received a formal education he is extremely knowledgeable in general. Sadly, the future of the botanic garden seems to be uncertain, as the local council are not supporting it, and the owners are considering selling it as they cannot afford to keep it running.
• It is possible to go on tour to the Cienaga del Pijiño if you are interested in seeing wildlife such as birds and reptiles. These tours can be arranged by calling at “La Cuarta” hotel and talking to a guy named Chipi.

Do [ edit ]

• Stroll along the pedestrianized river front, stopping at the many local cafés.

• Strike up conversations on the street with the friendly locals, and they may let you peek into their Colonial mansions.
• Swim at hotel Doña Manuela for a small fee.
• Climb the water tower for a small fee.
• Take a lancha on the river for a small fee.
• Rent a bike and tour the town.
• Take a city tour and be sure to visit the cemetery.

Buy [ edit ]

Try the local wine at ViniMompox (Cra 3 No. 20-34), where they sell various wines made of banana, guayaba, Spanish lime, orange and tamarindo.

Buy silver jewellery at various workshops around the Calle Real del Medio. Gold jewellery is also produced, but is less common.

Eat [ edit ]

• Mompos has plenty of informal eateries catering to appetites of all sorts with local delights but be very picky about the chosen venue ensuring minimum sanitary standards are met.
• The newly opened Mompoj Restaurant located at Bioma Boutique Hotel serves reasonable fusion dishes and the bar offers a variety of exotic cocktails. Service is not great and it is the priciest place in town.
• Walking upriver two blocks from the Santa Barbara church you can find El Fuerte, where Austrian chef Walter, prepares stone-baked pizzas and homemade pasta in his eclectic bar.

Drink [ edit ]

The so-called “Zona Rosa” has several bars along the riverfront, quite a pleasant place to have a drink in the evening. The bar at Bioma Boutique Hotel offers a nice selection of exotic cocktails and natural juices guaranteed to quench your thirst, delight your taste buds and get you in the mood for further enjoyment.

Sleep [ edit ]

All the prices quoted here increase substantially during the Christmas vacation and Holy Week. Mompox is hot, and you may want to consider staying in a room with air conditioning.

• 9.24111 -74.42472 1 Bioma Boutique Hotel , Calle Real del Medio # 18 - 59 , ☏ +57 315 308 6365 . Check-in: any time , check-out: 2PM . Restored expanded colonial house in the heart of Mompox's historical center; opened in April 2011. Rooms with air conditioner & ceiling fan, high definition TV with local and international channels, WiFi and iPod docking station. Amenities include gardens, restaurant, swimming pool, terrace with 360-degree views of the city, jacuzzi and lounge.  
• La Casa Amarilla , Cra 1 #13-59 ( Located right in front of the river by the Iglesia de Santa Barbara, in front of El Kiosko de Angelita. ), ☏ +57 5 685 6326 , +57 3013627065 , [email protected] . Check-in: anytime , check-out: 2PM . Hostal opened in 2008. Has an excellent movie selection, beautiful front rooms and a communal kitchen. The owners are an Anglo-Colombian couple very knowledgeable in things to do in the region, other hostels throughout Colombia and transport links. COP$15,000 per night for a backpacker style dorm bed (four to a dorm with private bathroom) and then prices increase upwards from there. For a private room you are looking at COP$20,000 per person based on double occupancy .  
• La Cuarta , Cra 4 No. 18-57 , ☏ +57 95 684 6127 . The cheapest, least atmospheric place in town. Prices for a double are COP$25,000 COP with fan and COP$35,000 with air-conditioning. It’s a building of modern construction. Friendly service.  
• The mid-range hotels which are set in colonial buildings are Hotel La Cassona at Cra 2 No. 18-58, Tel. (095) 685 5307 which costs COP$22,000 for a double with a fan, COP$35,000 for air-conditioning, and Casa Hotel San Andrés at Cra 2 No. 18-23, Tel. (095) 685 5886 which costs COP$35,000 COP for a double with a fan, and COP$50,000 with air-conditioning.
• Hostal Doña Manuela , Cr 2 No. 17-41 , ☏ +57 95 685 5142 , +57 95 685 5621 , +57 95 685 6175 , [email protected] . A double room with air-conditioning here will set you back COP$95,000. The rooms don't seem any better than other rooms in hotels set in colonial houses. Its amenities include one of the only two hotel swimming pools in Mompos. If you want to stay at a colonial hotel, and save a bit of money, it may be best to stay at a cheaper hotel, and pay the COP$8,000 daily swimming pool entry fee.  

Connect [ edit ]

Go next [ edit ].

• From Magangué, continue on to 10.423611 -75.525278 2 Cartagena de Indias . In total, Cartagena is now a 5-6 hours' drive from Mompox, via Magangué and the Ruta Caribe.

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Mompox Travel Guide

Explore Mompox: UNESCO site with colonial charm and Magdalena River

Mompox Travel Guide : The Essentials

• What to see in Mompox : municipal cemetery, Santander forest, Suán tree, Pozo de la Noria, Casa de 1734, Casa de los Apóstoles, Cultural Museum of Religious Art or Casa Bolivariana, Casa de la Cultura, Portales de la Marquesa, Piedra de Bolívar, Casa del Ayuntamiento, Plaza de la Libertad and Botanical Garden.  In addition, you should wander through its beautiful narrow streets or the corridor along the river’s boardwalk.  Among the temples, convents and monasteries of colonial architecture, it is important to visit Santa Barbara, San Juan de Dios, Santo Domingo, San Francisco, La Inmaculada Concepción and San Agustín. 
• Best time to visit Mompox : All the year
• Where to Stay in Mompox : Casa Amarilla
• Where to Ear in Mompox :  Plaza Concepcion
• How to Get to Mompox : From Cartagena, From Santa Marta, speed boats from Barrancabermeja
• Souvenirs from Mompox :  Silver, Palm Wine

What to see in Mompox ?

Historic center of mompox..

Port of call to Cartagena and commercial crossroads, Mompox, or “Mompos”, built its fortune very quickly.

It still has today a rich colonial architecture that attracted the aristocracy of Cartagena at the time.

A rebellious city, it was the first to emancipate itself from Spain and for a time welcomed the “Libertador” Simon Bolivar.

Because of its isolation, Mompox has escaped the heavy transformations of modernism and has kept intact its atmosphere of yesteryear.

Visit its historical center (UNESCO), its colorful baroque churches (Santo Domingo, San Juan de Dios, San Agustin and Santa Barbara), its prestigious colonial houses (Casa 1734, Portales de la Marquesa…) and its amazing cemetery (el Cimenterio Municipal).

As if frozen in time, Mompox exudes an undeniable charm.

Its craft workshops (goldsmith’s, ceramics, cabinet making…) are part of the city’s unmissable visits.

Stroll along the wall on the banks of the Magdalena river, in the Bolivar and Santander parks and in the botanical garden.

Discover also the cultural museum where various pieces of complex religious art are exhibited; this colonial house converted into a museum welcomed Simon Bolivar.

More Info : 

• Santa Cruz de Mompos Wikipedia
• Mompox Official Tourism Website

Cienaga de Pijiño swamp

Along the water, enjoy the picturesque landscapes of this marsh.

Aboard a traditional boat, observe the fauna (egrets, herons, iguanas, howler monkeys…) and the abundant flora (mangroves).

How to get to Mompox ?

From bogotá and bucaramanga.

Take the road to the coast along the Troncal del Magdalena to the village of El Burro. About 10 kilometers before the municipality of Pailitas, in the direction of Tamalameque and El Banco, department of Magdalena, cross the Magdalena River (Mompox arm) by ferry and continue to Mompox, the final destination. 

Take the coastal road to Bosconia, take the road that leads to Plato to La Gloria and then the detour that goes to Santana crossing the Magdalena River by ferry (Mompox arm), you will reach Talaigua Nuevo and a 20 minute (15 kilometers) ride to Mompox. 

From Barranquilla and Cartagena

If you are going from Cartagena or Barranquilla to Mompox, it is necessary to leave from the transport terminal of either city, and for reasons of capacity, arrive at least one hour before the departure time. The trip from either of the two origins takes about four hours to the municipality of Magangué, but the bus must always wait until one o’clock in the afternoon, when a ferry boat makes a 90-minute trip down the Magdalena River to the port of Cicuco or La Bodega and from there continues the trip that takes another 45 minutes to Mompox. The return trip to either of the two capital cities begins at six in the morning, and the ferry intercepts at half past eight. 

The same trip can be made in a private vehicle, taking the ferry to a 

There are three frequencies between Magangué and La Bodega: ten in the morning, one and four in the afternoon; and between La Bodega and Magangué: half past eight and half past ten in the morning and two and a half in the afternoon. Please note that these schedules may vary from time to time or according to the season. 

History of Mompox

Founded in 1537, it is one of the most beautiful and best preserved colonial towns in Colombia, which has earned it international recognition by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. 

Mompox is a historic city, because in addition to having served during the colonial period as the seat of urban settlement, it was also a stopover and an important port for the collection of goods for distribution in one direction or another to the interior of the country or to the Atlantic coast. Located on the Mompox branch of the Magdalena River, the city today magnificently preserves its houses, mansions, streets and temples and the cemetery, considered one of the most beautiful in the country. 

Crafts and religion 

The manual dexterity and creativity of the artisans give artistic form to their gold and silver filigree jewelry and to the creation of rocking chairs and chairs made of wood and momposino wicker. 

The religious spirit and fervor of the inhabitants of Mompox are traditional and are complemented by the architectural beauty and art that enclose its temples and the set of well-preserved colonial streets where the Holy Week processions circulate. Thousands of people come year after year to observe or participate in the acts and processions integrated by volunteer Nazarenes who gather in their homes or in a venue. 

The religious activity in which the colonial temples participate begins with a tradition known as La Procesión del Despedimiento, popularly called El Paso Robado. Throughout the week there are processions, liturgical acts and cultural events, and it closes on Easter Sunday with the Easter Vigil. 

Where to Stay in Mompox ?

In Mompox it is very easy to find lodging in the historic center in some of the old mansions that have been carefully remodeled and adapted to provide excellent service to guests, as well as in small houses that serve as hostels known as bed and breakfasts. A little farther from the center there are executive hotels and guesthouses for businessmen and traveling agents. 

How to get around in Mompox ?

Although there are municipal transport vehicles, the most common are rapitaxis or small motorized tricycles. 

What to do in Santa Cruz de Mompox Colombia | Tips for this hidden gem!

Santa Cruz de Mompox, also known and pronounced as Mompos, is a hidden gem in Colombia. The city is located on the Rio Magdalena, one of the most important rivers in Colombia . Mompox is a real off the beaten track destination, as it is only visited by a few people. Picturesque squares, colored churches, pastel-colored houses, beautiful facades and interior gardens with endless flowers: The center of town is just beautiful. Behind every door there is a new world opening and you want to start a bed & breakfast and restaurant just everywhere. In this article I’m sharing my tips for what to do in Mompox Colombia, including some lovely hotels and restaurants.

Taste the local wine: Vino de Mompox | Mompos Colombia

How to visit santa cruz de mompox colombia, welcome to santa cruz de mompox in colombia.

Did you ever read a book by Gabriel García Márquez? Then you might recognize the lovely atmosphere and stories of the locals in the fictional town of Macondo. Santa Cruz de Mompox Colombia, often called Mompos by the locals, could be one of these towns. You will find the tranquility of everyday Colombia here. Locals hang in their chairs in front of their houses and wait for the day to cool down. People are friendly and willing to have a chat or even drink with you. During the day it can be indescribably hot. There is no breath of wind so the only thing you can do is go with the flow of the locals.

What to do in Mompox Colombia

Mompox, with a few thousand inhabitants, used to be an important trade center because of its favorable location on the Magdalena river. When other side arms of the Magdalena River began to be put into use, the trade and economy in Mompox collapsed completely and the city was left behind. Today, a handful of tourists know where to find the town. There are not many highlights but it is the unique atmosphere what makes the town so pleasant to visit. Enjoy my tips for what to do in Mompox Colombia.

Walk around and enjoy the atmosphere

In Mompox Colombia you really just want to walk around, enjoy the atmosphere and have a chat with the locals. Walk along the banks of the Rio Magdalena, spot iguanas, stroll through the colonial streets, visit the beautiful churches and take a seat at one of the squares at the end of the day, such as Parque de la Concepción and Plaza de San Francisco. In the evening people gather on the streets to play games or join a dance class.

Enjoy a tour on the Rio Magdalena

Early in the morning or late afternoon, when the temperatures start to become convenient, you can take a boat trip on the Río Magdalena. You will pass small villages, local fishermen and plantations full of bananas, yucca and mangos. You are going to be surprised about the amount of birds flying around.

Besides that, dozens of iguanas are relaxing along the banks. In the beginning they are difficult to recognize, but if you have spotted a few with the help of the trained eyes of the locals, you will find them yourself as well. These animals are so pieceful and beautiful to observe.

Most tours go to the Ciénaga de Pijino, a large lake where you can also take a dip. With a little luck, you’ll enjoy a beautiful sunset at the end of the afternoon. Boat trips are offered in almost all hotels, but the best thing is do is to book a private trip with one of the local people in the harbor. That way you support the locals even more.

Looking for more tour options in and around Mompox? Have a look in the next overview with Mompox tours .

Stroll along the boulevard and have a chat with the locals

Along the river and on the boulevard, around the Santa Barbára square, you will find small bars where the locals come together. You will immediately be invited to have a drink and talk about life. I made many friends over the years and some of them I’m still meeting for a drink when I visit Mompox in Colombia.

In Mompox you will find different places where you can buy Vino de Mompox. This is a local wine made from banana, orange, apple or tropical fruits such as tamarindo and guayaba. And this might sound like a very sweet wine but that is not the case. You are going to be very surprised. Buy a bottle, find a nice spot on the boulevard and give it a try.

Planning to visit Santa Marta? Even though you mainly use the city as a starting point for a trip to the Tayrona national park, the mountain village Minca and The Lost City trek, Santa Marta is a nice place to spend a bit of time. In the next article I’m sharing my tips for the best things to do in Santa Marta .

Mini travel guide Mompox Colombia

Hotels in santa cruz de mompox colombia.

Mompox has many pretty boutique hotels and bed & breakfasts. You will be surprised about the world behind the closed doors. Most places have beautiful inner gardens filled with flowers and greenery, and large rooms with high ceilings. And the owners are very friendly and helpful. My favorites places to stay are Portal de la Marquesa , located at the boulevard and Boutique hotel Bioma because of their spacious rooms and lovely atmosphere. Both of them have a swimming pool and Bioma has a nice roof terrace. La Casa Amarilla en Casa Verde Albarrada are a bit more basic but convenient as well.

Check the latest prices and availability for:  Portal de la Marquesa , Boutique hotel Bioma, La Casa Amarilla and Casa Verde Albarrada . Looking for more hotels in Mompox?  Here  you will find a comprehensive overview.

Best restaurants in Mompox Colombia

Even though more restaurant start to appear in Mompox Colombia, you won’t find a shop or restaurant at every corner. You might have to look a little further, before you find something. But the city offers some cute places for a drink or meal. Read more about the best restaurants to eat and drink in Mompos Colombia.

Mompox is an off the beaten track destination and you have to put a bit more effort to reach this place. Mompox is a 3-hour drive from Corozal Airport, 6 hours from Cartagena, 5 hours from Santa Marta and 6 hours from Barranquila airport. There are public buses, but if you have a little more to spend and want to travel faster, it is recommended to book a private transfer to Mompos Colombia. It also possible to book a Mompox package from Cartagena , with transportaton, guide and hotel included.

Hotels in Colombia

Where to stay in Colombia? Like any other country, Colombia has so many beautiful hotels. For both work and personal trips, I visited Colombia dozens of times. When I travel by myself, I always look out smaller scale hotels with beautiful interiors, a nice atmosphere and a convenient location. In addition, I like to support the locals and love a sustainable approach around a hotel. I always spend a lot of time researching, before I book my stay.  In the next article I will tell you more about my favorite places to stay in Colombia:   The best boutique hotels, sorted by city and region in Colombia.

More about Colombia

Did you enjoy reading this guide about Mompox in Colombia? And do you want to read more? In the next article you will find lots of inspiration and tips for visiting Colombia.

• The best things to do in Colombia
• Bogota city guide
• Medellin city guide
• Best boutique hotels in Colombia
• Popayán – discover the white city
• A unique itinerary through the coffee region of Colombia
• Valle de Cocora – tips for your visit
• Lost City trek – everything you want to know
• Santa Marta city guide
• Salento – tips for your visit
• Tatacoa desert – everything you want to know
• San Agustín statues
• Villa de Leyva – tips for your visit

This article may contain affiliate links. If you purchase something using one of our links, we may receive a commission at no extra cost to you, which helps us keep this blog alive. Thank you for your support! Please see our  disclosures  for more information.

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WHY MOMPOX, COLOMBIA IS SO SPECIAL

October 2, 2021, 8:12 pm

Mompox is a town frozen in time. While the rest of the country has evolved and modernised, Mompox looks pretty much as it used to be during colonial times, for this reason, it was declared a World Heritage site by UNESCO in 1995. If you love visiting remote villages Mompox will be definitely a good addition to your Colombia tour!

Santa Cruz de Mompox (its official name) is located on an island surrounded by an arm of the Magdalena River, in the Momposina depression between the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta and the Sierra de San Lucas . The town was founded in 1540 and was an important trading centre during Spanish rule due to its strategic location. The Magdalena is Colombia's longest river and was the main transport route from the Caribbean coast to the centre of the country during colonial times. Mompox was also a safe place for the Spaniards to keep gold and other treasures protected from the siege of pirates and a refuge for the families running away from the pirate attacks in Cartagena .

Some of the gold from the great quantity kept in the town was used to manufacture precious artefacts to celebrate the religious ceremonies in the new evangelized communities. The high demand for skilled artisans rose the interest of various goldsmiths and silversmiths from Spain to travel to Mompox and settled there, bringing their skills and techniques to the New World. This delicate and detailed work style that came from these artisans has been kept throughout the years, making Mompox famous for its filigree jewellery. If you decide to travel to Mompox make sure you check the amazing work done by the local metal artisans; you might even be tempted by the chance to buy a set of delicate gold or silver filigree earrings, rings or bracelets.

Wandering around Mompox's main streets (middle street ( Calle del Medio ), back street ( Calle de Atrás ) and the street in front of the river ( La Albarradas )), you will see the magnificent colonial churches (five churches in total: Santa Bárbara, La Concepción, Santo Domingo, San Francisco and San Agustín ), mansions, houses and one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Colombia. Any Momposino will tell you the curious story about the cats frequently visiting one of the tombs in the cemetery, the tomb of Alfredo Serrano, popularly called " El Gato " (The Cat). After he passed away, his family used to visit his grave every week, one day they found a cat on his grave, they gave him some food and since then you will frequently see around 20 cats surrounding  his tomb.

Easter is one of the most important times of the year in Mompox. Celebrations start one week before Easter; the first week is called: " La Semana Santica " (The little Holly week), during this week kids and teenagers are the main actors, they dress up in traditional costumes to carry statues of saints, as it is usually during Easter. The celebrations during this week started many years ago when the local priest banned the parties and mundane celebrations alongside the Easter religious ceremonies. The community decided to have two weeks of celebrations in response: one week for parties and the other for religious ceremonies. The ban was lifted up many years ago, but the tradition continued and was turned into a celebration for the younger generations.

The gastronomic offering in Mompox is quite good, starting with local fish cooked in different ways, the capa cheese (a type of mild cheese), butifarra , chorizo and delicious desserts made of lemon or pineapple. The cheese and the desserts are definitely recommended.

There is a nice restaurant, called Fuerte San Anselmo , run by a friendly couple, an Austrian and his Colombian wife. This restaurant has a great atmosphere, pizza and beef are our recommendations here.

On top of the cultural richness and the beautiful architecture of Mompox, you will also fall in love with the nature surrounding the town. You will hear the sound of the birds, monkeys and other animals every morning as you wake up. During your visit to Mompox you can take a short tour (2 hrs) to a nearby marsh where you can enjoy the peace and quiet of the beautiful landscape, take photos of eagles, herons and other birds and have the opportunity to see monkeys and other animals.

Finally, if you are a Jazz lover, you will be fascinated with the Jazz Festival held here in October, where apart from enjoying the concerts, you will be absorbed by the beautiful and intact mix of history and nature found in Mompox .

How to get to Mompox?

It's not exactly straightforward to get to Mompox . If you are not keen on finding your way through buses and ferries, the best option is to book a tour with a travel company (like us), so you don't need to worry about the transport or accommodation. If you want to organise your own trip, follow the directions below depending on where you are:

From Cartagena or Barranquilla :

Take a bus to Magangué (5hrs approx). In Magangue, you can take either a ferry boat (1.5 hr approx) or a motorboat (chalupa) (15 min) along the Magdalena River to La Bodega. From La Bodega, take a taxi (shared or express service) that will take you to Mompox (45 minutes). On the road, you should try Diabolines (a typical snack made of tapioca flour, salty cheese, milk, eggs and butter). A great snack for your journey, you will find people selling it by the roadside.

From Santa Marta or Valledupar :

Take a bus to the northern coast of Bosconia (6hrs approx), from there to Santa Ana and then Talaigua Nuevo, where you have to take a 15 minutes ferry to Mompox.

From Bucaramanga , Cucutá or Bogota :

You can take a bus that goes through the Troncal del Magdalena (the main road to the northern coast) up to the village of El Burro, 10 kilometres before the municipality of Pailitas. Take the road to El Banco and from there a 4 hours trip to Mompox . During the rainy season, you can take the ferry or the chalupa from El Banco to Mompox.

It is very important to plan this trip and check the departure times of the buses and boats, otherwise, your trip could take longer than expected. As you can see, it is not easy to get to Mompox but it is definitely worth the hassle.

If you are planning your Colombia tour and have any questions or wish to include Mompox in your itinerary just get in touch , we are here to help you. You can also check one of our Caribbean Coast tours including Mompox   here .

We hope you find this review useful. Happy travels!

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Nidia Penagos

Nidia started Uncover Colombia after feeling the tug to promote her native country through a positive perspective. What better way to do that than showing visitors the beauty and diversity of her homeland? She was well-aware Colombia didn’t have the best reputation and she wanted to change that. So in 2012, with the help of her Colombian husband and close group of friends, she laid the foundation to build a Colombian tour operator that offers unique adventures, safe experiences and utilises local knowledge on each and every tour. 

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Discovering Mompox

Physical Condition

Why this trip ?

Located on the banks of the Magdalena River, south of Cartagena, Mompox is one of the most beautiful jewels of the colonial era. Declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, the city founded by the Spanish in 1530 retains a beautiful colonial architecture, with its houses and churches on the shore of the majestic Magdalena River.

Your Itinerary

• Day1 : On the way to Mompox
• Day2 : Discovering Mompox
• Day3 : End of the escapade

Santa Cruz de Mompox o Mompós is Located in the north of Colombia, in the south of the Bolivar department, on the Caribbean Coast. Mompós is also called the “Caribbean…

Highlights of this Trip

Discovery of one of humanity’s cultural heritage and its picturesque landscapes where birds and reptiles abound.

Mompox is one of the most beautiful villages in Colombia.

Discovery of Aracataca, birthplace of the writer Gabriel Garcia Marquez, Nobel Prize.

Detailed Itinerary

On the way to Mompox

Private transport will take you from your point of departure Santa Marta or Cartagena to Mompox with a scheduled stop in Aracataca, birthplace of writer Gabriel Garcia Marquez, Nobel Prize winner.

• Casa Amarilla

In the morning, historical city tour: visit of the parks, churches, cultural museum, a few colonial houses of prestigious families of that era and craft workshops of local artists. On the afternoon, discover Pijiño Marsh in a traditional canoe, where you might be able to spot local birds and reptiles. Sail down the Magdalena River in a canoe and enjoy Pijiño Marsh, where you can take a dip and observe local fauna and flora. Take in the beautiful sunset! Head back to Mompox late afternoon.

End of the escapade

Private transport from Mompox to your destination (Cartagena or Santa Marta)

Hotels during your stay

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The Journey in Image

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Frequently Asked Questions

For any information regarding your trip, refunds, insurance, please consult our terms and conditions . Do not hesitate to contact us if you have any questions

The tourist activities have resumed as usual in Colombia. We have an article dedicated to the Covid that we update regularly and will give you all the information about the Covid 19. Do not hesitate to contact us for any question

Colombia knows all climates. What you will take in your suitcase depends mainly on the regions you want to visit. We also have a very comprehensive article on the subject: best season to go to Colombia

Colombia is seasonal, with the high season being mainly from December to January. Some of the most beautiful hotels may be fully booked in advance, however we recommend that you book your trip at least 3 to 6 months in advance.

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Of course! This is the essence of Colombia Adventure. You can choose your hotels, activities, add an extension. Our sales consultants are there to guide you to the best choices thanks to their experience.

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Inspired By Mompox: A Colonial Gem Stuck In Time!

Posted on Last updated: December 15, 2023

Categories Colombia

Expert travel storyteller Jordan Adkins, founder of InspiredByMaps.com, brings a decade of adventures across 101 countries and 450+ UNESCO sites into rich, off-the-beaten-path narratives, melding ecological expertise with genuine, seasoned travel insights. His full bio can be found here.

You heard it here first: Santa Cruz de Mompox in Colombia is going to be the next ‘big thing’, Cartagena before the tourism explosion.

A colonial heritage village isolated for centuries on the banks of the Magdalena River, Mompox is decidedly stuck in the past and still today remains one of the most beautiful jewels of the early Spanish era.

Its founding by the Spanish in 1530 means it has inherited not only a rich history but also hundreds of slowly decaying mansions, plazas, churches and more.

“Mompox no existe. A veces sonamos con ella, pero no existe. [This is a place of dreams.]” – Gabriel García Márquez, 1989

At the time it was known as the gateway to South America and used by the Spanish as a base of operations, which couldn’t be attacked by the plague of pirates that continually devastated the coast.

Effectively an island vault of gold and silver, the Spaniards filled it with their plunder from the devastated continent and the array of opulent mansions and churches on display here are a direct result of this influx of wealth – similar to Ouro Preto in Brazil.

Mompox was also the first town to declare complete independence from Spain and is famous within South America as the place where, Simon Bolivar; the Liberator of northern South America, raised his army of 4,000 Momposinos to march upon Caracas. This place lead him to declare:

“ If I owe my life to Caracas, then to Mompox I owe my glory!” 

In more recent history Mompox was inscribed by UNESCO in 1995 as ‘the Historic Centre of Santa Cruz de Mompox’ the word is slowly getting out and Mompox is again open for business. I only expect it to boom more as Colombia continues to get safer and its points of interest become more widely known.

An extra-ordinary example of a Spanish colonial town where most buildings are still used for its original purpose, this town’s main trade is still religious tourism that culminates in the annual Easter procession, one of Colombia’s most famous.

Outside of this time, you are likely to have entire streets and plazas to yourself. However this will not last as slowly, street by street the decaying facades are slowly being renewed and dilapidated mansions turned into boutique B&B’s.

You can read my separate review for Portal de la Marquesa , the hotel I stayed at which was once frequented by Simon Bolívar.

The town has banded together and decided that any tourism boom will support and benefit locals so there is a pledge to not build any large-hotel establishments, keeping the profits within the community and small-scale lodgings allowing for a more equal chance of attracting guests.

As a result, the town today still has a wealth of well preserved colonial architecture and beautiful displays of craftsmanship that are proudly displayed everywhere you go.

From the rooftops and glorious wooden balconies to the shaded internal courtyards and forged iron around the window – nothing in this town will disappoint you.

There are many attractions in Mompox from the surrounding wetlands (a bird watcher’s paradise) to the numerous churches, museums and mansions that open their doors to curious tourists.

However, for me, the best attraction of Mompox was not something physical, but instead the atmosphere and ambience of a town trapped in its ways from hundreds of years ago. The slowed down life of the residents where the day revolves around checkers in the square, wicker rocking chairs and sun-down and music by the riverside late into the night.

The attraction here is life, a place that evokes its glorious past everywhere you look, the legends and rituals of Catholicism mixed with shamanistic beliefs and a healthy dose of literary history chucked in for good measure.

Indeed in Gabriel García Márquez famous novel, “The General in His Labyrinth,” he discusses the glorious past of Santa Cruz de Mompox which you can sense as you walk around the town and get a feel for the locals. It’s not a place to rush around and ‘do’ but to slow down and appreciate the context.

Take a chair in any plaza at sunset and watch life unfold, bats waking up, lizards scurrying home for the night – and of course Momposinos going about their daily life.

I can promise you will not be harassed by any salesmen or artists here, its as if the town collectively recognises the effort you took to come here and see a forgotten Colombia – A dreamlike destination of magical realism, history, craftsmanship and wildlife all combined.

As I said – It will be the next big thing in Colombia!

Getting To Mompox In Colombia

While it looks pretty complicated to get to Mompox, which in turn puts off all but the most determined of travellers – it has actually become a lot easier in recent times due to the opening of a bridge. There are now direct buses from Cartagena (5 hours), San Gil, Bucaramanga and Bogota (overnight).

No changing or boats involved. There is also a daily shuttle to Santa Marta which is door-to-door and very quick.

If you are travelling further Colombia, you might also like to read these blog posts:

• Top Ten Things to Do in Popayan: Colombia’s Hidden Southern Gem!
• The Absolute Best Things to Do & See In Buga Colombia: Beer, God and Iguanas!
• The Wonders of Tierradentro – Untamed Landscapes & Ancient Beauty
• What to Expect on A Graffiti Tour in Medellin (And Why You Need To Go!)
• An Honest Review Of El Rio Hostel In Colombia: The Good, The Bad and The To-Be-Improved
• Getting From Colombia To Panama With San Blas Adventures
• Cartagena Scuba Diving: As Good Under the Sea As On Land!

Cartagena and Mompox: a tale of two cities

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updated 29.06.2020

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Sooner or later, pretty much every traveller in Colombia finds their way down to Cartagena, the fortress city by the sea. Surrounded by the formidable 16th century Las Murallas (sea wall), the city’s old town is almost too picturesque, with its maze of leafy squares and narrow streets, lined with brightly-painted colonial houses sporting ornate brass door knockers and draped with bright pink bougainvillea plants.

From early morning on, Cartagena buzzes with activity. Before 9am, scores of speedboats whisk crowds of sun worshippers to the Rosario Islands from the dock while the city’s numerous vendors lay out colourful hats, wood carvings and woven goods along the pavements.

Start your wanderings at the leafy Plaza de Bolívar, where the locals linger on the shaded benches. The grand Palacio de la Inquisición that takes up the west side of the square inspired fear and loathing in its time, with witches, blasphemers and other sinners denounced at the small window along its side between 1610 and 1776. Inside, the inventive torture implements indicate how confessions were extracted.

Diagonally across from the square is the vast, fortress-like cathedral, with a soaring but plain interior. Sir Frances Drake had a cannon fired into its interior in 1586 in a bid to persuade the good citizens of Cartagena to part with a vast sum on money – a move that persuaded the city that it needed better protection against marauding pirates. The most impressive of the Cartagena’s fortifications is the hilltop Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas, across the bridge from Old Town, its towers, battlements and maze of tunnels never penetrated by the enemy.

At night, Old Town throngs with crowds. Live music plays at the Plaza de Los Coches; rows of open-topped horse-drawn carriages carry couples and families through the narrow streets; squares fill with revellers, hawkers, beggars and street musicians. From the melt-in-your-mouth ceviche, the Vietnamese-style seafood rice at La Cevichería on Calle Stuart, and the intense flavours of southern India at Ganesha at Calle de Las Bovedas, to the fine dining and live Cuban music at Calle Balocco’s La Vitriola – frequented by the likes of Shakira – Cartagena’s eating scene is second to none.

Revelry continues late into the night, from the open-air Café del Mar atop the sea wall to the pumping nightclubs along the glitzy hotel strip in the new part of town, and the action only winds down at dawn, only to be repeated, night after night.

So, if all roads eventually lead to Cartagena, then Mompox – the ‘anti-Cartagena’ – is notoriously difficult to reach, lost as it is in the midst of swamps and tiny villages in the middle of Colombia. You have to catch a van in the wee hours of the morning, or else take a combo of buses and boats.

Santa Barbara church © Rafal Cichawa/Shutterstock

A timeless languor hangs over Mompox, baked under the hot sun, and seems to seep into your very bones. The slow pace of life reflected in the gentle movement of the river and the lives of locals who trundle along the dirt streets by bicycle. Founded in 1540, this town that once rivalled Cartagena in importance as a port until the river was silted over and traffic diverted elsewhere. The town’s loss is your gain: with the exception of Colombian visitors, who come to pay homage to the setting of the film version of Gabriel García Marquez’s Love in The Time of Cholera , you will find few other tourists here.

The biggest pleasure here consists of strolling along the waterfront, ducking into narrow sun-baked streets, lined with crumbling colonial buildings, and stopping at the leafy little square, graced with a statue of El Libertadór himself – Simón Bolívar – that betrays Mompox’s former importance. The inscription below reads (in Spanish): “If to Caracas I owe my birth, to Mompox I owe my glory”. Nearby, the elaborate decorations of Mompox’s churches – the gingerbread house-like Iglesia de Santa Bárbara by the river and the brightly tiled Iglesia de San Agustín on Calle Real del Medio – are the foil to the austerity of Cartagena’s places of worship.

If the heat is too much, while away the siesta hours on shaded benches in the little tree-lined park by the cemetery. Poke around the little necropolis, its grounds overgrown with knee-length dried grass, its chipped gravestones and tombs a blinding white on a sunny day, and the cemetery cats dozing in their shadow, to see if you can spot the only Jewish grave in the Catholic ‘city of the dead’.

Gourmet cuisine is yet to make inroads here, but Comedór Costeño is an excellent bet for lunch, with heaped plates of fish-of-the-day, rice and patacones (mashed fried plantain) served on outdoor tables overlooking the river. In the evenings, the locals gently creak in the street on the wooden rocking chairs they are famous for making. You can join their example on Plaza de Concepción, knock back a drink at the Luna de Mompox or else head to the Plaza Santo Domingo that comes to life at night with street vendors grilling meat on sticks, making pizza from scratch, while local musicians provide the soundtrack.

In contrast to Cartagena’s frenetic aquatic activity, Mompox’s boats glide slowly along the banks, giving you glimpses of sunbathing giant iguanas, herons and other denizens of the river. The boat makes its way up a narrow tunnel of reeds to a vast lake where the local fishermen’s children frolic in the water. As the sun goes down, the lake acquires an otherworldly pearly sheen, and as the blood-red sun sinks below the horizon, you imagine that you’re seeing Mompox exactly the way other travellers saw it five centuries ago.

Top image: View of Cartagena de Indias, Colombia © rocharibeiro/Shutterstock

Tailor-made travel itineraries for Colombia, created by local experts

7 days  / from 1284 USD

Unforgettable Colombia

Spend your first days in Colombia exploring its capital city Bogotá before heading further to the coast: Cartagena and Santa Marta will be next on the agenda. From wandering the historic city center to hiking the jungles to a virgin beach, Colombia will be an unforgettable trip!

18 days  / from 3664 USD

Colombia: music & arts explored

If you are a lover of the arts than look no further. This trip will bring you culture, art, architecture, music and dance: visit local markets and workshops, admire the graffiti in Bogotá, discover historical city centers and “Fondas” – local bars with exotic decoration and typical Colombian music.

10 days  / from 4650 USD

Colombia for nature & adventure lovers

Do you like adventure and nature? Then you're in luck, this trip combines the best of both. Go horse riding through the Risaralda valley and join a bike tour through Cartagena, visit the beautiful Cocora Valley and discover the Coffee Cultural Landscape. There's something for everyone!

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Santa Cruz de Mompox (Colombia)

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Reviews of Santa Cruz de Mompox

Mompox is a colonial town lying somewhat off the beaten track. first founded in 1537, its historic centre has been inscribed as a unesco world heritage site..

Though it takes many hours to reach Mompox by bus, it's well worth the effort. The small, peaceful and typically Colombian colonial town seems somehow frozen in the past, and I thoroughly enjoyed each day I spent here. There are not really that many tourist sites to see or visit in Mompox, but it's the perfect place to come to if you are looking for somewhere where you can slow things down a little and take the time to meet the local people and fully immerse yourself in the local atmosphere.

Visit the semblance of a botanical garden here and meet Don Ernesto (a veritable walking encyclopaedia of knowledge); chat with the locals as they sit in their rocking chairs enjoying their siesta; rest and relax while watching the cats and the children playing; visit the local jewellers (veritable weavers of silver), and take a tour of the mangroves, where you'll get to observe wild birds, iguanas and local fishermen – all things I recommend doing when visiting the town. Mompox is definitely one of the towns to visit and explore when in Colombia.

Santa Cruz de Mompox, shortened to Mompox, is a former colonial town that is today a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Situated to the north of Colombia, at about 250km from Cartagena in the Bolívar province, Santa Cruz de Mompox is an architectural dream . It was one of my favourite discoveries during my holiday in Colombia.

This charming Caribbean town has a population of 40,000 and was founded in the 16th Century by Spanish colonists, before later housing the Spanish royal mint. The Hispanic influence can still be seen in the town's architecture. Most of the town's buildings are churches and Catholicism remains ingrained in the local population.

Its historic centre is exceptional and its architectural heritage led to it being classified a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Among its numerous monuments, make sure you see: the Santa Barbara Church, the Inmaculada Concepcion Church (my personal favourite), the San Francisco Church, Santo Domingo Square and the San Carlos de Borromeo Palace. If you're not a fan of religious buildings, rosaries, stained glass windows and crucifixes then give this place a miss!

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