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Borders Of Adventure

Leading Culture and Adventure Travel Blog by Becki Enright. Looking at the world with a different angle to change perceptions of misunderstood places, for the best in travel.

Misunderstood Destinations , North Korea

North Korea Travel Guide – The Truth About Visiting the DPRK

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This guide to travel in North Korea talks about tourism in this very restricted country and what it is really like to visit the DPRK. 

Travelling to North Korea for seven days was hard. It’s propaganda via the medium of travel. I was overwhelmed, confused, upset, surprised, and returned with more questions than I had before I went.

My perceptions were certainly challenged while visiting the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK). Living in the western world means I have always been exposed to a one-sided and exaggerated view of what goes on there. A biased view that never mentions anything positive and masks any forms of progress that might just pave the way for a better future, even if it evolves slowly from an extreme belief system.

At the same time, any showcased achievements you see when there entirely mask the atrocities that we know about but are obviously not mentioned. 

North Korea is a country held high as the ultimate war trophy, whose unpardonable extreme ideological policies are mocked alongside the suffering of its people, rather than put into context and explained. Yet interaction with North Koreans, however limited, paves a way for understanding. The more we learn, the less inclined we are to make assumptions. Travelling can help provide that context. 

North Korea Travel Guide – The Reality of a Visit to the Hermit Kingdom.

Can Anyone Travel to North Korea?

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You can’t travel to North Korea unless you are in a guided tour group. Tourism in North Korea is very restricted and you almost feel as though you live on the tour bus as you can’t wander around freely. At all times, you have two guides who chaperone you every step of the way.

It’s a completely different way of travelling, and as held back as you feel, the local people simply are not used to western faces and so this form of control allows them a slow introduction. When you visit North Korea, it is not a holiday.

South Koreans are not permitted entry to North Korea.

North Korea travel is all about spending most of your time on the bus.

Following the death of American tourist, Otto Warmbier after he was arrested and detained in North Korea, US Secretary of State Rex Tillerson authorised his department to block Americans from traveling to the country, which already advised against travel to North Korea.

The ban came into effect on 1st September 2017, leading some tour companies, such as Young Pioneers no longer taking American tourists into the country (effective as of June 2017). Journalists and humanitarian workers are allowed to apply for exemptions under the ban.

Choosing a North Korea tour isn’t too difficult since there are not an abundance of companies offering travel experiences there. I went with Koryo Tours in 2012, given their great reputation and the fact they opened up the concept of tourism there first.

Not only is it very expensive to go to North Korea, but I wanted my trip to be expertly organised. With the tour starting and ending in Beijing , and all your visa requirements taken care of, the whole process was hassle-free.

The night before I remember sitting with a guy in my Beijing hostel, who was also going, and feeling overwhelmed. “We are going to North Korea! I can’t believe it!” which was quickly followed by “I’m scared”. Really scared of the million rules and regulations we had to adhere to, scared of what we might see, doing something wrong and being in trouble. And scared of what I would end up feeling.

In the departure lounge, nervousness and excitement were expressed through a mutual exchange of our knowledge and opinions. It’s better to get everything out of your system before you are exposed to exaggeration, propaganda, and overshadowed facts where you have to keep a straight face. You will only be shown what they want you to see.

North Korea Koryo tour group.

No – the visa is simply printed out and kept together in one big file for the entire group which includes individual images of everyone on the tour (a page that is also stuck on the bus window for reference).

The tourist visa card to North Korea.

After signing up for a tour and when your visa and permission for entry to North Korea is granted, you will fly from Beijing to Pyongyang on Air Koryo – a state-run airline. Air Koryo has consistently bad ratings, but flights to North Korea are the only means to enter.

The majority of organised tours leave Pyongyang via train, back to China (specifically Beijing), upon which North Korean guards will enter the train before its entry into China to check your camera and make sure you are not taking any offending material outside of North Korea. Other tours may also fly back to China via Air Koryo.

Boarding the Pyongyang to Beijing train.

As long as you follow all the rules outlined to you before you enter North Korea, travel is ‘deemed safe’ in the respect that you are never alone, never allowed to travel at your own will or allowed to travel outside of the designated areas where North Korean guides chaperone you at all times. This means it is highly unlikely that you will be affected by any serious crime or be the victim of it, nor witness any major situation in the country at the time due to the controlled nature of the visit.

North Korea isn’t a communist dictatorship where people and visitors have relative freedom, like Cuba . Every DPRK tour factors in a full briefing, before departure, on every applicable rule you must follow. These are often reiterated on the trip itself. There is no excuse for breaking the rules which are very clearly laid out.

There is nothing brag-worthy about travelling in North Korea; everyone is effectively at risk travelling there.

It is also wise to keep up to date with the latest news agenda, alongside political tensions in the area and those between North Korea and your country of citizenship that may affect your entry to the country as well as any pending bans or rule changes.

You will attend a meeting in Beijing at the offices of your designated tour company before the start of the tour (normally 24-48 before), which outlines the rules you must adhere to when travelling in North Korea. These include:

• The types of camera and lens size permitted for use in the country.
• How your Passport will be taken from you when you enter North Korea, for the duration of the tour (and usually kept by your tour group leader) and returned to you upon arrival back into China. The reason for this is stated as being “for security reasons”. At the time I travelled, my mobile phone was also confiscated.
• How to take pictures of the Kim statues , which cannot be captured close up or cropped. They must be captured in their entirety.

Bronze statues of the Kims in North Korea.

• The kinds of pictures you are NOT allowed to take. Pictures of any form of construction, scenes that denote poverty and images of the military are not permitted. When in doubt about the nature of what can and can’t be photographed, ask first.
• How you will be expected to honour the leader.  When visiting the statues of Kim Il Sung your group will be expected to bow and lay flowers, just as the North Koreans do. You are also obliged to pay respect when visiting all monuments of national importance.
• The importance that any kind of independent travel in North Korea is in no way allowed, anywhere or at any point of the tour.

Pyongyang city seafront.

• Do not try to reason, state facts, change the narrative or attempt to overturn the words and actions of your North Korean guide or those you come across at designated sites.  This is their job, and while you might categorically know something not to be true, they have no choice, and you chose to be in this restricted and propaganda-heavy situation.
• Any attempt to converse privately with a North Korean citizen will be seen as an act of espionage.

North Korea guard explains the history to tourists visiting the border with South Korea.

• To act positive, praise-worthy and keep any negative thoughts to yourself and not say anything derogatory out loud.  It’s better to be submissive and accept the situation than to be seen as trying to overturn it.
• Do not bring with you any materials pertaining to South Korea, religion or anything that can be seen as a form of ideology of which you will be seen as imposing.

You must absolutely follow the rules for travel in North Korea and don’t do anything outside of those rules which may draw attention to yourself.

There are no exceptions to these rules and nor will you get off lightly. Imprisonment and torture are common forms of punishment and your tour company has no special command to get you off the hook.

Also, anything you do wrong also puts your North Korean’s life (and their family’s lives) at risk.

My North Korea Experience

Pyongyang, where the North Korea tour is mostly be based, isn’t a grim and frightening ghost town. Looking out from the top of the hotel, you are afforded a view just like any other big city, including skyscrapers, factories, monuments and mass housing. It is, after all, the centre of the country’s most elite – it exists as a centrepiece and to house particular people.

I thought Pyongyang would be a small concrete city, hidden from view. Instead, it sprawls for miles and miles and looks just like any other city, except it’s scattered with propaganda posters, mosaics and bronze sculptures of the Kims. It is both the pivotal destination for tourism, the capital and at the heart of the regime.

View of Pyongyang from the tourist hotel.

The high-rise buildings of Pyongyang, the capital of North Korea.

There is no denying that it is for show. This is not how the majority of North Koreans live. The city gleamed with new and pristine buildings, built to the grand imposing communist-style façade of dominance, modern progression and increasing wealth.

There are statues so immense that their towering presence automatically creates an air of intensity, like the artistic propaganda posters you can’t miss – a style I had previously learnt about at the Shanghai Propaganda Poster Art Centre prevalent during the Mao’s Communist Regime in China. The stylised shop fronts we too often take for granted when at home are, in fact, empty. Or they happened “to be closed” that day, of course.

Sightseeing in Pyongyang.

Bronze statues of the Kims riding horses.

Elevated view of Pyongyang City. 

It was, seemingly, a functioning city full of local people going about their daily lives. Whether that was the queue for a building we could only assume is a food and ration station (there are only tourist stores open), the pockets of people disappearing underground to use the Metro station or walking to the office, or the mothers out with their children, we got only a very, very small glimpse of daily life. Mostly from the bus window.

Streets of Pyongyang.

Pyongyang Metro entrance.

You must always remember what is deliberately presented to you when you travel in North Korea. 

Whilst you know about malnourishment and mass electricity blackouts, you don’t see it in the show city. So whilst there’s no denying the existence of this because there’s proof from defectors and undercover reporters, in Pyongyang it is not on the scale we are told about because the set-up is very different. Although extreme poverty does exist en masse throughout the country (as footage shows), this is what you (strategically) won’t see.

When we drove out of the city, we did pass shanty-type, less affluent towns. This was a real glimpse into how some of the population live outside of the capital and was the more shocking side to travel here. Of course, upon leaving Pyongyang, you can’t take images. Instead, you only remember what you saw. 

Construction was taking place everywhere, and we still wondered why many people were living in semi-completed buildings. I’ve also seen similar neighbourhoods in China and other parts of Asia, where buildings are left rather than being maintained and where wealth distribution is unbalanced. I wouldn’t say this housing is unique to North Korea, but it did show the existence of the same underbelly of poverty. From news investigations, we know deep down it’s far worse than what we see from a quick glance out of a bus window, of course. 

DPRK Propaganda sign in a neighbourhood in Pyongyang.

Life in Pyongyang.

What confused me the most about North Korea was the beautiful countryside in Nampo and around – green hills and yellow crop plantations, trees and orchards. In a land that has around 70% mountainous terrain, it looked pretty impressive.

Our British guide told us that North Korea had admitted to bad farming practices and that it lacked knowledge about beneficial methods, but it looked as though things were improving. Or could. If it was put into practice for the benefit of the people.

The countryside of North Korea.

I’m no farmer, but I wasn’t expecting to see so much green and grain. Whilst this may not produce a plentiful supply for the entire population, there is production in farming, although I have no doubt that it’s far from enough or distributed properly, if at all. There have been famines since the 1970s when the help from the Soviets ended, and the need for international aid began. 

The countryside near Nampo outside of Pyongyang.

Our visit to a local farm was very set up, and we had no belief that anyone we met actually lived there. The shame is that it still provides a window of hope for what can actually be.

A working farm in North Korea.

Farming in North Korea.

Our visit to an apple factory with its investment of millions of pounds worth of equipment looked as though a slow growth of manufacture and export is on the cards – or again, one could hope. The mechanism is there – it just needs to be implemented.

A mural of King Jong Il adorns the apple factory near Pyongyang.

Apple factory tour.

Apple products from the factory are on sale for tourists.

The question of what it is like to live in North Korea fascinates everybody. When you look into it a bit more deeply, we all are cut from an ideology of the society we are brought up in, except that in North Korea, it is on a very extreme scale to what we will ever know.

From what I observed when I was in North Korea and what I read before and after my visit, the majority of North Korean people know of nothing else, and by having no access to other sources or information and, therefore, no comparison (except the few who retain and obtain information and later defect), it appears they live in a world they assume is normal.

From that sense of normal appears to be a genuine love for the Kims – nearly everybody wears a pin badge bearing one or both of them, and many bow to the statues before work in the morning. They believe in everything they have been told as they have never known the full facts, or been given the means to find out or make a personal judgement. If you knew of nothing else, what would you do? Sure, there must be people from older generations who also know the absolute truth but have no option but to live in submission.

My point is that we shouldn’t be so quick to judge a nation of people without looking at their ideology in context. It’s devastating that people have to live in such isolation in this day and age. We, in the Western world, are lucky to live in societies where we have freedom of speech, freedom of expression, access to information and means from which to realise our aspirations and make informed choices.

We shouldn’t be so quick to brand a nation of people as odd, weird or crazy when they have no clue and are just going about their normal lives.

The normal they know.

The ethical question of visiting North Korea is a tricky one, and I sit on both sides of the fence.

On the one hand, everything that happens in North Korea is wrong. At the same time, in that case, we wouldn’t be travelling to many places. Some argue that by visiting North Korea you are helping to fund the regime or government’s objectives, but this applies to many countries open to tourism. Think of the corrupt governments that still exist in Asia and the Middle East, but you don’t think twice about heading there.

On the other hand, meeting North Koreans is a gateway to openness. The North Koreans we met were kind. Our guides were easy-going, approachable, witty and caring. Of course, you can’t talk openly to them, speak of things at home, or try to inform them of the facts behind the Korean War. This would be against the rules set upon you and at risk to them. Beyond the historical ‘facts’ they had to tell and the rules they had to impose (since they would be in serious trouble over any of our irresponsible actions) they weren’t lifeless robots. They became our friends, just like any other person.

On National Day, we walked through a park where locals were celebrating with their families, laying out a huge picnic, firing up the barbeques, playing music and dancing. Some were unsure of us, giving a stare that suggested a slight fear of the unknown and given what they have probably been told about the Western world and its people, others were welcoming, offering food and pulling us into their dancing circles.

You might question the serendipitous encounter at the time visitors arrived. Even if they were told to be there (which is highly likely), shaking hands, smiling and interacting was the only reassurance we could provide that we are not all bad, and I feel that is a positive start to what could be a slow but positive change in this country. 

Travelling to North Korea and a tourism drive could be one way to start opening the cracks.

National Day in North Korea.

What Do You Get to See in North Korea?

The number one rule of travel to North Korea is that you will never see the real North Korea. Travelling to North Korea is in no way a relaxing holiday or a form of vacation. They want you to return having believed the PR presentation about development, happiness and loyalty. 

A trip to North Korea is not complete without the sites they want you to see – the showpieces of the regime and the points of Hero Worship – such as Kim Il Sung Square and the statue we had to bow to, the Tower of Juche Idea, the Founding Party Monument, the captured US spy ship USS Pueblo, Kim Il Sung’s native home.

The Monument to Party Founding in Pyongyang.

Monuments and murals in North Korea.

Pyongyang parade ground markings.

One of the many monuments in North Korea.

Captured ship US Pablo shown to tourists in Pyongyang.

Korean traditional dress and dancing.

A fairground, a bowling alley, nights of karaoke. That’s also part of the itinerary and which you realise are places built for the elite locals and not just for western entertainment. Keeping the people happy and occupied – distraction keeps the ideological machine in motion.

The main downside to what you see is the imposed order and structure as well as the exaggerated explanation, yet this is what you expect before you come on the trip. Some things you visit, such as the farm collective, appear a little too set up with the people ‘placed’ there, which didn’t feel right or real at all. But you only had to look into the distance to get a better picture, without taking an actual photograph.

Propaganda literature and videos on a North Korea tour give an extremely one-sided argument to the history of the Korean War. It is frustrating, but you have to grin and bear it. Everything is built in what they call ‘chollima time’ such as their version of the Paris Arc de Triomphe, of which North Korea’s is bigger and took less time to build. “This would normally take five years to build, but we built it in three!”

North Korea’s version of the Arc de Triomphe in Pyongyang.

Local guides gush about Kim Il Sung more than you would declare the love you feel for your parents – he is often referred to as ‘our father’ much like religious terminology. Films detailing milestones of the country such as the building of the West Sea Barrage dam are long, tedious and full of descriptions of the ‘revolutionary spirit’ behind its construction. Every place of high importance bears a plaque of when one or both of the Kims made a visit, alongside a giant painting of them. 

This can become very tiring but does give solid insight into the way the minds of the people have been moulded and the lessons to be learnt from that.

While tourists can easily visit the DMZ in South Korea, North Korea’s tourism doesn’t leave this off the agenda. This is your chance to see it from the other side and, of course, hear the story from their perspective.

You get to sit in the same room, converse over the negotiation table (which you are not allowed to sit at when you visit from the South Korea side) and see the North Korean guards on duty at the borderline.

Visiting the DMZ on the North Korea side on a guided tour.

Around the table at the DMZ meeting room on the North Korea side.

North Korean guards at the DMZ border line.

After that, you will get to look through Binoculars out into the DMZ ‘No Man’s Land’ area in-between the two country borders, where you are informed North Korean guards keep constant watch.

Looking out into the DMZ No Mans Land from North Korea.

READ MORE: Visiting the DMZ in North and South Korea – The Story of Both Sides

One of the deepest metro systems in the world, you get to go 110 metres underground to ride the Pyongyang metro. Adorned in intricate mosaic tiled propaganda images and bronze and with revolutionary themed names like ‘Comrade’, ‘Glory’ and ‘Reunification’, North Korea’s subway is quite the experience.

This is a stop included on your organised tour since North Korea is both proud (of those stations on show) yet secretive and guarded since you can ride only five of the 16 stops. Of course, you embark and disembark at the grandest station of them all – Prosperity.

Hundreds of people can be seen making their way to and from work and home, on a ticket that costs 5 Won (less than one US cent). I have seen images of all 16 stations in use and apparently, you can ride all of them – you just don’t on a tour as it would take too long. But in reality, we will never know if the entire metro system is in constant working order and for whom such a service is for.

I’m fascinated by metro systems all over the world and the Pyongyang subway is a highlight for the curious-minded. I would love to ride them all since it is said each station exists as a timeline and story flow of North Korea’s history.

The part of the metro in Pyongyang open to tourists.

Inside the decorated Pyongyang metro station.

Newspaper on the platform of the Pyongyang metro subway platform.

When you sign up for your North Korea tour you will be asked if you would like to purchase a ticket to the famous Arirang Mass Games spectacle at the Rungrado May Day Stadium, also known as the Arirang Festival. It is deemed a highlight and THE thing to see in Pyongyang, There are various tickets for different seating plans, but for the majority of tourists this feat of athleticism and showmanship of gymnastics is a highlight.

The Mass Games in North Korea.

While no show on earth will ever compare to that of the Mass Games in North Korea – a spectacle so incredible and full of athletic prowess that it blows your mind – it was also very uncomfortable to watch.  

At the back of your mind weighs the reality of the extreme training of the participants, who live within a gruelling and dominant regime where the Mass Games is a part of the societal showcase. You can imagine the pain and endurance to be perfect, and exactly what would happen if someone messed up. No one puts a foot wrong during the performance.

As a communist state, North Korean flags and red symbols appear heavily throughout. The huge picture in the background? That’s school kids trained all year to make images from pieces of coloured cards for hours on end at this show.

Watching the Arirang Mass Games in North Korea.

The hundreds of performers at the Arirang Mass Games.

The Grand Mass Gymnastics and Artistic Performance Arirang.

While places of communist past have or are slowly moving on, becoming ‘socialist’ and slightly more progressive, North Korea lags behind by still keeping an ultimate grip on its people, yet struggling with the realisation that it needs to develop, trade and open up with the rest of the world in order to sustain itself in the modern age.

A country striking fear into the heart of its people is the only way it maintains control. This is something my generation, in particular, doesn’t understand as many of us have never had to live in a country in serious conflict with another. Whilst we would all love to see a united Korea, it wouldn’t be that easy.

Think of the differences between East and West Berliners when the wall came down. Two ideologies and different ways of life collided; two economic and education systems trying to integrate. I couldn’t imagine this would be an easy process of bringing immediate peace, but hopefully, I will see some movement towards this in my lifetime.

In tourism’s infancy, around 1,500 tourists visit North Korea annually. Today, that number is more in the regions of hundreds of thousands, but mainly from the Chinese market in comparison to the smaller numbers of western tourists going to the DPRK. Still, that’s thousands more than we ever thought possible.

From what we were told from the Koryo Tours representative with us, the more time goes by, the more tourists are allowed to see and do – a two-way trust process that slowly grows, where we can show the North Koreans a positive side to the Western world and its people and where we can try to understand them. A hope that it somehow paves the way for openness.

Maybe one day the people will harness the power for change or the ideological system will change.

Only then can we be friends without restriction. 

It was important for me to gain a wider perspective on the culture and history of the Koreas and the conflict, and so a few months later I travelled to South Korea for three weeks. I was able to see some core sights and gain a better understanding of just how different life is on the other, more accessible side of this heavily tested border.

About Becki

Becki Enright is a British Travel Press Award-winning writer whose work focuses on changing perceptions about misunderstood aspects of destinations. Her writing combines storytelling with insight into the social, historical, political and economic factors that shape the country or place in relation to tourism. Becki has appeared live on Sky News and CNN and has contributed to high profile media including National Geographic, Time.com, Guardian online, New York Times, Grazia and Buzzfeed.

Chris Padley says

19 August 2023 at 8:47 am

In his TV programme made of his visit to N.K. Michael Palin visited a park on National Day too. A comparison between this, as seen in the TV programme, and your description of your own experience is interesting.

Paul Cosgrave says

13 June 2023 at 9:56 pm

Becki: Great Article. You are a brave person to have gone to North Korea. As an American I will not be going anytime soon. I agree with your comments that travel is so important to help us understand the people and their motivations who have grown up in different cultures than ourselves. I realized this in a recent trip through Vietnam and Cambodia where the culture is clearly not as different from our western background as what you experienced in North Korea, but nevertheless very different from what I had expected. The one thing I have learned from my travel is that people around the world are much more similar than they are different.

6 January 2023 at 7:27 am

I traveled to North Korea in 2007. Americans were not allowed to visit for a long time but when they allowed a few American tour groups in that year I jumped at the chance

Everything in this rings true to me. I am still conflicted as to whether giving money to the regime was a good thing

However there were several moments when I had a brief but human chat or laugh with one of our guides. Talking about family and universal stuff. I hope that made a tiny bit of difference in understanding

6 January 2023 at 1:46 pm

It’s a real conflict mentally and morally. Although North Korea is up there as one of the worst, we sadly give our money to many regimes when travelling. But I firmly believe that those chats on universal stuff are a way of paving the way to openness, truth and understanding.

Aaron Galan says

17 May 2020 at 8:30 am

I would love to go to North Korea just to have another perspective of what it is shown on TV. Maybe give a chance to this country, because it’s easy to say that a country is bad for its bad reputation on TV. And I know this because sometimes other countries think that Mexico is just as bad as a Warzone. Apart from that I would like to see if it’s true that everything is as Asymmetrical as everyone says. I would also like to visit the DMZ from both perspectives to compare each sides of the stories

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Everything You Need to Know About Traveling to North Korea

Are you thinking of traveling to North Korea but unsure of how to make it happen? Start by reading this North Korea travel guide.

I’ve visited North Korea, or officially, the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK) twice: once in 2015 ( Pyongyang  / DMZ + Kaesong / Mount Kumgang /  Wonsan ) and once in 2018 (Rason). However, I rarely brag about visiting North Korea because it isn’t a place I would encourage just anyone to visit. It’s not relaxing or enjoyable. It’s…mentally challenging, to say the least.

You should not travel to North Korea unless you’re willing to consider a perspective different from what mainstream western media tells you. Your experience of North Korea hinges on how you frame it, and it’s vital that you go with an open mind. In fact, I believe I had an easier time digesting and understanding my North Korea travel experiences  because of my East Asian heritage, but still I’m struggling to put them all in words.

People who learn that I’ve traveled to North Korea  always  ask the same questions about how they can do it too, so I finally decided to write this guide to answer all the questions (and bust all the myths). If there’s something you want to know that’s not mentioned here, please leave a comment and I’ll reply!

Can anyone travel to North Korea?

There’s a misconception that it’s almost impossible to visit North Korea when in fact, almost anyone can go to North Korea (except South Korean citizens). Even US citizens were previously able to go but following the high-profile case of Otto Warmbier, the US Department of State has for now  banned citizens from traveling to North Korea .

While almost anyone can visit North Korea for tourism, you do not get to go around North Korea freely. You must join a tour, and only travel agencies approved by the North Korean government can organize tours to North Korea. Many of these tours have itineraries covering the same state-designated destinations and attractions.

Throughout your visit, you will be accompanied by at least two North Korean guides from the state-owned tourism bureaus such as KITC (Korea International Travel Company). They are the only North Koreans you’ll interact with extensively for the entire length of your stay.

But you’re not allowed to take photos, right?

Photography is definitely allowed in North Korea, as you can see from this post and others on this site. There are indeed some restrictions: you’re not allowed to take photos of military buildings and vehicles, soldiers in uniform, buildings under construction, or monuments undergoing maintenance. You will be cautioned not to crop any photos of the Great Leader (Kim Il Sung) or Dear Leader (Kim Jong Il). If you try to take a photo when it’s prohibited, your guides will stop you.

The North Korean government is extremely conscious of its image, and it’s understandable if you think about it. After all, photos of North Korea are often used by western media to paint the country in a negative light. The guides I’ve met know all too well how their country is perceived, and that likely reinforces what they’ve learned: to have great pride in what they’ve been able to achieve despite a lack of resources.

Is it very expensive to visit North Korea?

I find that North Korea tour costs are similar to any group adventure tour with accommodation, transport, and meals included. Expect a 5-night tour to cost around 1,200-1,700 euro with return Beijing-Pyongyang flights (entry/exit by rail should be cheaper). This does not include drinking water or tips and gratuities.

When choosing from North Korea travel operators, it’s more important to check their reputation and see what unique itineraries they offer.

Which tour operators would you recommend?

As with other East Asian countries, mutual trust and relationships are deeply rooted in the culture and a trusted North Korea tour company/agent will have latitude to offer more special tours. Koryo Tours and Juche Travel both have a good track record and in-depth knowledge to help you plan your trip (I’m not affiliated with either company).

Your North Korea tour company should guide you through the logistics of your trip, handle visa processing for you, and inform you on all the latest rules and regulations. That brings us to the most important question:

Is it safe to travel to North Korea?

You’re always looked after by guides, food is clean and tasty, and you’re unlikely to become a victim of crime. So yes, it’s safe to travel to North Korea, as long as you follow the rules.

I know what you’re thinking: that the North Korean tourism rules are meant to restrict tourists’ freedom and paint a false picture of the country. Whether you agree with this or not, you need to respect the rules and local laws of any place you visit. Some North Korea tourism rules include:

• Camera lenses beyond a certain zoom level are not allowed.
• Your passport will be kept by your guides upon arrival and returned at departure.
• All devices (mobile phones, cameras, laptops) will be inspected upon entry and exit to/from North Korea. Make sure your phone does not contain any religious or politically sensitive content (e.g. remove Bible apps, existing photos, etc.)
• You must pay respects when visiting statues of North Korea’s leaders Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il, or other national monuments.
• Be respectful to guides. Do not ask provocative questions or argue against their narrative.
• You are allowed to talk to locals, but they are very wary of foreigners and most do not speak English or other foreign languages.
• Do not bring any magazines or religious material into North Korea.
• Most North Korea tour companies will allow you to blog about your experience, but journalists are not allowed to visit as tourists or sell stories/images to news publications unless you receive special permission.

Not following the rules means you risk getting yourself, the tour company, and possibly even your North Korean guides in trouble. However, as long as you play by the rules, you’ll be able to glean quite a bit of knowledge beyond what you’re shown or told.

Isn’t it unethical to support the North Korean regime through our tourism?

Discussion about safety when traveling to North Korea inevitably lead to moral concerns about supporting the DPRK regime through tourism. Even if you disagree with how the country is governed, visiting in person is the best way to understand North Korea’s nuances and complexities. Think of it this way: your moral obligation, if any, is to learn as much as possible to make it worth the trip.

Reading up on a place before visiting is always a plus, but for travel to North Korea it’s absolutely essential. I’d recommend you go beyond US news articles and add the following 8 books to your reading list. Want more? Check out this extensive selection of books about North Korea .

Overnight Hiking on Seoraksan: A Beginner’s Guide (+Trail Map)

Certain “bestsellers” have been excluded from this list as they’re known to be overly dramatized or disrespect/risk the safety of ordinary people in North Korea. For news and analysis, NK News and 38 North are good places to start (but are by no means the only sources).

What will I get to see and experience in North Korea?

Lots of people sneer at North Korea tours, claiming that everything you’ll see is staged or even that all the people in the city are actors. While you’ll come across scenes that are more of performances, I can reassure you the people and buildings are real.

A typical first-time visit to North Korea will includes standard sights in Pyongyang, the DMZ, Kaesong, and some UNESCO World Heritage Sites such as the tombs of ancient Korean kings.

How much do things cost in North Korea?

While most North Korea tours include accommodation and three meals a day, you’re expected to buy your own bottled water, snacks, and any out-of-pocket expenses such as riding the Pyongyang tram. Make sure you bring enough extra cash for souvenirs and tips.

The official exchange rate when I visited was US$1 : 100 North Korean won, but if you get to shop at a Pyongyang department store  you’ll find a far more favorable exchange rate.

Staying connected in North Korea

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If you haven’t lived in the pre-Internet age, be prepared to feel extremely isolated in North Korea as most tourists will not have any connectivity to the rest of the world. Although data SIM cards are available, they’re prohibitively expensive . If you have to call home, you can make international calls from the lobby at hotels like Yanggakdo Hotel. When I visited in 2015, calls cost US$5/minute.

Another cool activity is to send home postcards that you’ve purchased at souvenir shops. North Korean postal services will mail out your postcards to any international address, with the exception of some countries (definitely not the US or South Korea). It can take weeks or months to get delivered, but it’ll be a great gift when your friends receive it.

What else would you like to know about visiting North Korea? 

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North Korea Travel Guide – Everything You Need to Know

Tourism in North Korea, officially known as the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK), offers a glimpse into one of the world’s most isolated and enigmatic nations. With its tightly controlled and government-guided tourism industry, North Korea provides a unique opportunity for travelers to explore its propaganda-filled capital, Pyongyang, visit historic sites, and witness carefully curated cultural displays. While tourism in North Korea is tightly regulated and often limited to guided tours, it allows curious visitors to see a side of the country that is rarely seen in the international media. However, it’s crucial to note that traveling to North Korea involves strict rules and limitations, and visitors are accompanied by government-assigned guides throughout their stay.

What’s the Best Time to Visit? 📅

The best time to visit North Korea as a tourist is during the spring (April to June) and autumn (September to October) seasons. These periods offer the most favorable weather and comfortable conditions for travel:

• Spring (April to June): Spring is considered one of the best times to visit North Korea. During this season, the weather is mild, and the landscape comes alive with blossoming flowers and greenery. The temperatures are generally pleasant, with daytime highs ranging from 15°C to 25°C (59°F to 77°F). This season is ideal for outdoor activities and sightseeing.
• Autumn (September to October): Another excellent time to visit North Korea is in the autumn months. The weather remains comfortable with mild temperatures, and the changing foliage adds a beautiful backdrop to your travels. Daytime temperatures range from 15°C to 20°C (59°F to 68°F). This is also a great time for cultural events and festivals.

It’s important to note that North Korea experiences harsh winters with extremely cold temperatures, especially in December and January. Summer, from July to August, can be hot and humid, making outdoor activities less comfortable.

Travel to North Korea is highly regulated and can only be done through authorized tour operators. Additionally, political and diplomatic situations can change, affecting travel access and safety. Always check the latest travel advisories and consult with the relevant authorities or tour operators before planning a trip to North Korea.

What’s the Best Way to Get Around? 🚌

In North Korea, tourists are generally accompanied by government-assigned guides throughout their stay, and their movements are closely controlled. As a result, the best way to get around North Korea as a tourist is through organized tours offered by authorized tour operators. Here’s how transportation typically works for tourists in North Korea:

• Guided Tours: All tourists in North Korea must join guided tours organized by authorized tour operators. These tours are meticulously planned and supervised, with itineraries determined in advance. Travelers are accompanied by North Korean guides who ensure that they follow the prescribed program.
• Chartered Transportation: Tour operators in North Korea typically arrange for chartered transportation for their tour groups. This includes buses and sometimes domestic flights within North Korea. These vehicles are usually exclusive to the tour group, ensuring privacy and control over the travel schedule.
• Public Transportation: In some cases, tourists may use public transportation for short trips within Pyongyang, such as the Pyongyang Metro or local buses. However, these instances are limited, and tourists are closely supervised by guides during such activities.
• Domestic Flights: For tours that include visits to cities outside of Pyongyang, domestic flights may be arranged. These flights are typically on North Korean airlines and are part of the tour package.
• Walking and Sightseeing: Within cities and at various sites, tourists often walk or engage in sightseeing activities. These activities are usually part of the guided tour and allow tourists to explore specific attractions while accompanied by guides.
• River Cruises: In some cases, river cruises on the Taedong River in Pyongyang may be included in the tour itinerary, providing a unique perspective of the city.
• Private Vehicles: For special arrangements or custom tours, private vehicles may be used for transport between destinations. However, this is less common and may come at an additional cost.

It’s important to note that tourists in North Korea are subject to strict regulations and are not permitted to travel independently or deviate from the tour program. All activities and movements are supervised, and photography is often restricted in certain areas. Visitors are expected to follow the guidance of their North Korean guides and adhere to local customs and rules. Travelers interested in visiting North Korea should do so through authorized tour operators and should be aware of the unique and controlled nature of tourism in the country.

What’s the Official Language?

The official language of North Korea is Korean, specifically the dialect known as “Pyongyang-speak” or “Pyongyang accent.” While English is not widely spoken in North Korea, and the use of foreign languages is limited, here are some basic Korean phrases that tourists may find helpful during their visit:

Common Greetings:

• Hello – 안녕하세요 (annyeonghaseyo)
• Goodbye – 안녕히 가세요 (annyeonghi gaseyo) [when someone is leaving]
• Thank you – 감사합니다 (gamsahamnida)
• Yes – 네 (ne)
• No – 아니요 (aniyo)
• Excuse me / Sorry – 죄송합니다 (joesonghamnida)
• Please – 부탁합니다 (butakhamnida)
• How much is this? – 이거 얼마에요? (igeo eolmaeyo?)

Basic Phrases:

• My name is [Your Name] – 제 이름은 [Your Name] 입니다 (je ireumeun [Your Name] imnida)
• I don’t understand – 이해하지 못해요 (ihaehaji mothaeyo)
• Help – 도와주세요 (dowajuseyo)
• Where is…? – … 어디에요? (… eodieyo?)
• I need… – … 가 필요해요 (… ga pillyohaeyo)
• Water – 물 (mul)
• Food – 음식 (eumsik)
• Bathroom / Toilet – 화장실 (hwajangsil)
• Hospital – 병원 (byeongwon)
• Police – 경찰 (gyeongchal)

Learning numbers can be especially useful for basic transactions and understanding prices:

• One – 하나 (hana)
• Two – 둘 (dul)
• Three – 셋 (set)
• Four – 넷 (net)
• Five – 다섯 (daseot)
• Six – 여섯 (yeoseot)
• Seven – 일곱 (ilgop)
• Eight – 여덟 (yeodeol)
• Nine – 아홉 (ahop)
• Ten – 열 (yeol)

Keep in mind that English proficiency among the general population is limited in North Korea, and communication can be challenging. Tourists are typically accompanied by government-assigned guides who speak some English, which can help bridge the language gap. Additionally, showing respect and courtesy through gestures and body language can go a long way in communicating effectively while visiting North Korea.

Where to Stay? 🏨

In North Korea, tourists are typically accommodated in state-approved hotels and lodgings that are prearranged by authorized tour operators. The options for where to stay as a tourist are limited, and visitors are not permitted to make independent lodging arrangements. Here are some of the hotels and accommodations commonly used for tourists in North Korea:

• Yanggakdo International Hotel (양각도국제호텔): Located on Yanggak Island in Pyongyang, this is one of the most well-known and largest hotels in North Korea. It offers a range of facilities, including restaurants, bars, a casino, and even a revolving restaurant on the top floor.
• Koryo Hotel (고려호텔): Situated in central Pyongyang, the Koryo Hotel is another option for tourists. It has restaurants, a coffee shop, a bar, and a gift shop. The hotel has hosted various international events and foreign delegations.
• Ryugyong Hotel (류경호텔): Known for its distinctive pyramid shape, the Ryugyong Hotel is one of Pyongyang’s iconic landmarks. While it was under construction for many years, it has reportedly opened for some foreign tourists, although details can vary.
• Chongnyon Hotel (청년호텔): This hotel is located near the Arch of Triumph in Pyongyang. It offers basic accommodations and is often used by budget travelers.
• Sosan Hotel (소산호텔): Situated in the port city of Wonsan on the east coast of North Korea, the Sosan Hotel is used for tourists visiting this region. It has facilities such as restaurants, a casino, and a karaoke bar.
• Hotels in Other Cities: When visiting cities outside of Pyongyang, tourists may stay in local hotels or accommodations designated by the tour operator. These options can vary in terms of comfort and amenities.
• Homestays: In some rural areas, tourists may have the opportunity to stay in local homes or guesthouses as arranged by their tour operator. This provides a unique cultural experience.

It’s important to note that accommodations in North Korea may not meet international standards, and the availability of amenities can vary. Tourists should be prepared for a different level of service compared to what they might experience in more tourist-friendly destinations.

Travelers to North Korea must be part of an organized tour with an authorized tour operator, and accommodations are typically included as part of the tour package. All aspects of the visit, including lodging, are closely monitored by North Korean authorities, and tourists are accompanied by government-assigned guides throughout their stay.

What to Eat? 🍽️

North Korean cuisine is characterized by its unique flavors and traditional dishes. While tourists in North Korea are typically served meals as part of their organized tours, here are some must-try North Korean foods and dishes you might encounter:

• Kimchi (김치): Kimchi is a staple Korean side dish made from fermented vegetables, often featuring Napa cabbage and radishes. It’s known for its spicy and tangy flavor and is served at nearly every meal.
• Rice (밥): Rice is a fundamental component of Korean cuisine. It’s usually steamed and served as a side dish with various accompaniments.
• Bibimbap (비빔밥): Bibimbap is a popular Korean dish that consists of rice mixed with vegetables, often including carrots, mushrooms, spinach, and bean sprouts. It’s topped with a fried egg and spicy gochujang sauce.
• Japchae (잡채): Japchae is a dish made from stir-fried glass noodles (usually sweet potato noodles) mixed with vegetables and seasoned with soy sauce and sesame oil. It’s a flavorful and colorful dish.
• Naengmyeon (냉면): Naengmyeon is a cold noodle dish typically served in a cold broth. There are variations, but Pyongyang-style naengmyeon features buckwheat noodles in a refreshing, tangy broth with toppings like cucumber and slices of beef or pork.
• Pyongyang Cold Noodles (평양냉면): Pyongyang is famous for its cold noodle dishes. These noodles are made from wheat flour and are typically served in a cold beef or chicken broth with various toppings.
• Mandu (만두): Mandu are Korean dumplings, often filled with ingredients like minced meat, vegetables, and tofu. They can be served steamed, pan-fried, or in soups.
• Korean Barbecue (고기구이): While not exclusive to North Korea, Korean barbecue is a popular dining experience. You grill thinly sliced meat, often beef or pork, at the table and wrap it in lettuce leaves with condiments.
• Pajeon (파전): Pajeon are savory pancakes made with scallions and various ingredients, such as seafood or kimchi. They are crispy on the outside and tender on the inside.
• Samgyetang (삼계탕): Samgyetang is a hearty chicken soup made with a whole young chicken stuffed with glutinous rice, ginseng, and jujubes. It’s believed to have health benefits and is often consumed on hot summer days.
• Dotorimuk (도토리묵): Dotorimuk is a dish made from acorn jelly, which is sliced into cubes and served with a savory sauce. It’s a unique and texturally interesting dish.
• Kimchi Pancakes (김치전): Kimchi pancakes are made by mixing kimchi with batter and pan-frying it until crispy. They are a popular snack or appetizer.
• Korean Sweets: Try Korean sweets like tteok (rice cakes), yakgwa (honey cookies), and hangwa (traditional sweets made from rice and honey).

Keep in mind that the availability of specific dishes may vary depending on the region and the tour operator. North Korean cuisine offers a mix of flavors, from spicy and pungent to mild and savory, and trying local dishes is an essential part of experiencing the culture during your visit.

What to See? 🔍

North Korea offers tourists a range of unique attractions and sites to explore, providing insights into the country’s history, culture, and political system. Here are some must-see places and attractions in North Korea for tourists:

• Kumsusan Palace of the Sun (권수산태양궁전): Formerly the residence of Kim Il-sung and now a mausoleum, this grand building houses the embalmed bodies of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il. Visitors are required to wear formal attire and follow strict rules when entering.
• Juche Tower (주체사상탑): This iconic tower in Pyongyang stands at 170 meters (560 feet) and is dedicated to the Juche ideology, which emphasizes self-reliance. Visitors can take an elevator to the top for panoramic views of the city.
• Kim Il-sung Square (김일성광장): Located in central Pyongyang, this massive square is named after the country’s founding leader. It is often the site of grand military parades and mass rallies.
• Arch of Triumph (개선문): This arch, larger than its Parisian counterpart, was built to commemorate the Korean resistance to Japanese rule. Visitors can climb to the top for views of the city.
• Mangyongdae Native House (만경대출생지): Visit the birthplace of Kim Il-sung, which has been preserved as a museum showcasing his early life.
• Pyongyang Metro (평양지하철): Experience a ride on the Pyongyang Metro, known for its deep tunnels and elaborately decorated stations. The metro is often referred to as the “world’s deepest.”
• Korean War Museum (조선인민군역사박물관): Explore the museum dedicated to the Korean War (1950-1953), featuring extensive exhibits and artifacts from the conflict.
• International Friendship Exhibition (국제우정전시관): Located in Mount Myohyang, this vast underground complex houses gifts and tributes received by North Korean leaders from around the world.
• Demilitarized Zone (DMZ): Take a tour to the DMZ, the heavily fortified border between North and South Korea. Visitors can see the Joint Security Area (JSA) and the Korean War armistice village of Panmunjom.
• Pohyon Temple (보현사): Located in Mount Myohyang, this Buddhist temple dates back to the 11th century and features beautifully preserved architecture and statues.
• Mount Paektu (백두산): The highest peak on the Korean Peninsula, Mount Paektu is a significant symbol in Korean folklore. It offers hiking opportunities and stunning landscapes, but access may be limited.
• Wonsan Beach: If visiting the eastern port city of Wonsan, relax on one of its sandy beaches along the Sea of Japan (East Sea).
• Chongjin: Explore the city of Chongjin on the northeastern coast, known for its industrial history and access to scenic areas like Mount Chilbo.
• Hamhung: Visit the coastal city of Hamhung, known for its historical sites, beaches, and the Hungnam Fertilizer Complex.
• Kimjongilia and Kimilsungia Flower Exhibitions: These annual flower exhibitions, featuring specially cultivated blooms named after the country’s leaders, are held in Pyongyang.

It’s important to note that travel to North Korea is tightly controlled and can only be done through authorized tour operators. Visitors must adhere to strict rules and regulations, and their activities are closely monitored by government-assigned guides. The availability of certain attractions may also depend on the current political and diplomatic situation.

What to Do? 📸

As a tourist in North Korea, your activities and experiences are typically tightly controlled and guided by government-assigned tour guides. While your itinerary may be predetermined, there are some must-do things and cultural experiences you can expect during your visit to North Korea:

• Visit Kim Il-sung Square: Stand in the heart of Pyongyang at Kim Il-sung Square, often the site of grand military parades and mass rallies. It’s a symbol of the regime’s power and ideology.
• Explore Pyongyang: Take a guided tour of the capital city, Pyongyang, where you’ll see monuments, landmarks, and government buildings. These may include the Arch of Triumph, Juche Tower, and the Party Foundation Monument.
• Ride the Pyongyang Metro: Experience a ride on the Pyongyang Metro, known for its deep tunnels and ornate station designs. You may visit several metro stations during your tour.
• Attend Mass Games (Arirang Festival): If your visit coincides with the Arirang Festival (also known as the Mass Games), attend this grand spectacle featuring thousands of performers, coordinated movements, and colorful displays.
• Visit Museums and Historical Sites: Explore museums such as the Korean War Museum and other historical sites, which provide insight into North Korea’s official narrative of its history.
• Interact with Locals: While interactions with locals are limited, you may have opportunities to interact with people in controlled settings, such as at a school or cooperative farm.
• Try North Korean Cuisine: Sample North Korean dishes, including kimchi, bibimbap, and Pyongyang cold noodles. Meals are often provided as part of your tour.
• Learn About the Juche Ideology: Gain an understanding of the Juche ideology, which emphasizes self-reliance and independence. You’ll likely hear about this concept throughout your visit.
• Visit Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il Statues: Pay respects to the statues of North Korea’s leaders, Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il, often located in central squares.
• Attend Cultural Performances: Watch cultural performances, such as traditional music and dance shows, to get a glimpse of North Korean arts and culture.
• Take a Trip to the DMZ: Join a tour to the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) and the Joint Security Area (JSA) to see the border between North and South Korea. You may have a chance to step into the JSA buildings and interact with South Korean soldiers.
• Participate in Local Celebrations: If your visit coincides with North Korean holidays or celebrations, you may have the opportunity to observe or even participate in festivities.
• Photography: Capture the unique landscapes, architecture, and cultural scenes, but be aware that photography may be restricted in certain areas.
• Visit Mount Myohyang: Explore the scenic Mount Myohyang region, known for its natural beauty, historical sites, and cultural attractions.
• Learn About Propaganda: Observe the prominent role of propaganda in North Korean society, from posters to monuments.
• Attend a Local Market: Visit a local market, such as the Kwangbok Supermarket in Pyongyang, to see everyday life and commerce in action.

It’s essential to remember that travel to North Korea is highly controlled, and visitors must adhere to strict rules and regulations imposed by the government. Tourists are accompanied by government-assigned guides throughout their stay, and independent exploration is generally not allowed. Additionally, the availability of certain activities may be subject to change based on the political and diplomatic situation.

Culture and Safety 🦺

Traveling to North Korea as a tourist presents unique cultural and safety considerations due to the country’s highly controlled and authoritarian nature. It’s essential to be well-prepared and informed before visiting. Here are some cultural and safety tips for tourists in North Korea:

• Respect for the Leadership: Show respect for the country’s leaders, especially Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il, as well as symbols and monuments associated with them. Avoid any disrespectful behavior or comments.
• Dress Code: Dress modestly and conservatively. Avoid wearing clothing that is revealing, provocative, or excessively casual. Formal attire may be required for certain locations, such as the Kumsusan Palace of the Sun.
• Photography: Ask for permission before taking photos, especially of military personnel, infrastructure, or anything the guides deem sensitive. Photography rules can be strict, so always follow your guides’ instructions.
• Political Discussions: Avoid engaging in political discussions, criticizing the government, or expressing opinions that could be considered disrespectful or offensive.
• Behavior in Public: Be aware of your behavior in public spaces. Public displays of affection, such as hugging or holding hands, may be frowned upon.
• Interactions with Locals: Interactions with local people are limited and often occur in controlled settings, such as at schools or cooperative farms. Follow your guides’ instructions during these interactions.
• Gifts and Souvenirs: Consider bringing small gifts from your home country to offer to your guides or hosts as a gesture of goodwill. Common souvenirs include North Korean propaganda posters and stamps.
• Travel with an Authorized Tour Operator: North Korea allows tourists only through authorized tour operators. Choose a reputable operator with experience in North Korean tourism.
• Travel Advisories: Check travel advisories and safety information from your government’s embassy or consulate. Be aware of the political and security situation in the region.
• Register with Your Embassy: Inform your embassy or consulate of your travel plans and contact information in North Korea. Registering can be crucial in case of emergencies.
• Follow Government Guidelines: Abide by the rules and regulations set by the North Korean government and your guides. Non-compliance can have serious consequences.
• Restricted Access: Recognize that certain areas may be off-limits or closely monitored. Access to information and communication with the outside world may also be limited.
• Travel Insurance: Ensure you have comprehensive travel insurance that covers potential medical emergencies, evacuations, and unforeseen situations. Verify if North Korea is covered in your policy.
• Currency and Transactions: Familiarize yourself with the local currency (North Korean won) and the restricted nature of currency exchange. Use official channels for financial transactions.
• Health Precautions: Consult a healthcare provider for vaccinations and health precautions before your trip. North Korea may have limited medical facilities and access to certain medications.
• Respect the Guides: Develop a respectful and cooperative relationship with your guides. They are responsible for your safety and adherence to local rules.
• Avoid Sensitive Topics: Steer clear of discussing topics that could be considered sensitive or offensive, including politics, religion, and human rights.
• Know Your Limits: Recognize that you are a guest in a highly controlled environment. Avoid pushing boundaries or attempting independent travel or activism.
• Emergency Contacts: Familiarize yourself with emergency contact information for your embassy or consulate in Pyongyang.

Traveling to North Korea is a unique and challenging experience. It’s essential to approach your visit with cultural sensitivity, respect for local customs, and a clear understanding of the safety and political considerations involved. Always stay informed about the latest developments and follow the guidance of your tour guides to ensure a safe and respectful visit.

In conclusion, visiting North Korea is an unparalleled journey into a secretive and tightly controlled nation, offering a unique perspective on its culture, history, and propaganda-filled society. Travelers to North Korea should be prepared for a highly structured experience, with government-assigned guides overseeing every aspect of their visit. While it provides a rare opportunity to see a side of North Korea not often revealed in international media, tourists must adhere to strict rules and limitations imposed by the government. It’s a destination that intrigues the adventurous traveler but requires a deep understanding of its political and cultural complexities.

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How To Travel to North Korea as a Tourist

Note: Since the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic, North Korea’s borders have been completely closed to foreigners. As of right now, it is not possible to go to North Korea.

Quite a few of my friends were shocked to discover I was travelling to North Korea. “I didn’t even know you could go to North Korea, let alone join a tour group!” they exclaimed.

Yup, against common belief, it is possible to travel to North Korea. And it’s actually surprisingly easy.

Almost anyone can visit North Korea, with the exception of citizens of South Korea and the United States. It was only recently (September 2019) that the US government banned its citizens from travelling to North Korea, and this may be reversed in time now that Donald Trump is out of office.

In this blog post, I’ll walk you through how to travel to North Korea as a tourist, explaining everything you need to know about tours, visas and travelling into the country itself.

How To Travel To North Korea: The Logistics

There are very few places from where you can enter North Korea — you can’t simply book a flight from London to Pyongyang! You will most likely need to go through China, which shares a border with North Korea. You’ll also need to book onto a government-run tour group, as you cannot visit North Korea independently.

With this in mind, there are three things you’ll need to do in order to visit North Korea as a tourist:

• Book onto a tour
• Arrange a Chinese visa
• Organise transport to China

1) Book Onto A Tour

To visit North Korea, you must book onto a tour group. You cannot visit North Korea independently as the country’s government simply doesn’t allow this. Any visit to North Korea will be an all-inclusive tour with an organized itinerary — there is no getting around this.

Your tour group is ultimately controlled by the Government via the Korean International Travel Company. This means your itinerary is set in stone, with no room for free exploration or solo adventuring. You will be escorted at all times by two guides and a driver.

There are a few tour operators who run trips in North Korea, and these are Lupine Travel , Young Pioneers and Koryo Group . I personally went with Lupine Travel, although it seems as though the three companies are all fairly similar.

There is quite a well-pathed tourist route which most if not all, tourists are taken on. This goes to all the main  attractions in Pyongyang , to the Demilitarised Zone on the border of South Korea and to a mountainous region in the north.

Once you choose the tour you want to go on and have booked it, the tour operator will take care of a lot of the logistics for you, including your return transport into North Korea from China, your North Korean visa and your accommodation, food and itinerary once in North Korea.

The tour company probably will not take care of your return transport to China from your home country, or your Chinese visa (although they will help you with this).

Once you’re booked onto a tour, the company will liaise with you prior to your trip, ensuring they have everything they need from you and that you have everything ready, as well.

2) Get Your Chinese Visa

My tour with Lupine Travel started and ended in Beijing. This meant I required a Dual Entry Chinese Visa, as I would technically be entering China twice: once via a flight from London, and then again when I left North Korea.

The Chinese visa can be a little tricky. I’ve applied for and received 2 Chinese visas in the last decade, and they were a bit of a hassle on both occasions. There are a lot of forms to fill out and it can get complicated. Be sure to read through the documents carefully and answer everything truthfully.

For your Chinese visa, you will need:

• Your passport: with remaining validity of at least 6 months and with blank visa pages.
• Visa Application Form: truthfully completed and type-written.
• A photo: taken within the last six months; full face against a light background; size: 48mm x 33mm; bare-headed unless for religious reasons.

You can visit a Chinese embassy or Chinese Visa Application Centre to hand in your documents, or you can mail it. It typically takes four working days to process your application, but it’s recommended that you apply about 2 months before, as there can be issues. They rejected my photo on one occasion and I had to resubmit it, for example.

Once approved and processed, you can go and collect your passport and visa. The fee for a Chinese visa is £150 / $140.

Visit the Chinese Visa Application Service Center to apply for your visa.

The tour company you booked with will handle your North Korean tourist visa for you. All you’ll need to do is fill in a few simple forms and send over a scanned copy of your passport. Your guide will then give you your North Korean visa once you meet up with your tour group.

3) Book Your Transport To China

As your tour to North Korea likely starts in China, you’ll need to book flights or some other form of transport to China, as this is probably not included in your tour package. Check which city your tour’s meeting place is — mine met at the train station in Beijing, but some meet in the city of Dandong, which is on the border of China and North Korea.

Flights from Europe start from about £500. You can search for cheap flights on Skyscanner.

Travelling into North Korea from China

As mentioned above, your tour company will take care of the logistics of your transport into and out of North Korea from China. You’ll most likely meet your tour group in Beijing or Dandong, and then travel with them from there into North Korea, either by train or plane. It depends on the tour company you go with as to whether you’ll go by train or plane. You will be escorted at all times on your transit into and out of North Korea.

The sleeper train departs Beijing in the late afternoon and goes through Northeast China overnight, before reaching the border at around midday.

Once at the border, North Korean soldiers will come onboard to do visa, passport and luggage checks. I found the experience quite intimidating; they poked around in my backpack and asked me to explain what some things were. I remember a fellow traveller on my tour awkwardly explaining what his beard trimmer was used for.

You will also be given forms asking you to declare electronic devices that you’re bringing into the country. I’d advise that you don’t bring any devices with you if possible — you won’t be able to use the internet or make phone calls anyway, and you may be asked to open it up and show the soldiers your files.

Be certain that you do not have religious material, pornography, or memes/other insulting material about North Korea on your device.

It can take a few hours to cross the North Korean entry customs. Once through, you’ll spend about 5 hours travelling through the scenic North Korean countryside before arriving in Pyongyang .

Another way to enter North Korea from China is to take an aeroplane, which is much quicker than the train but certainly less scenic. Air Koryo runs three to four flights from Beijing to Pyongyang each week, as well as weekly flights from Shanghai, Shenyang and Dandong.

I took the train myself, so I don’t have first-hand insight into what the plane is like. But apparently, you’re welcomed on board with songs about socialism and Kim Jong-un, as well as magazines that showcase the ‘fatherly leader’ and the heinous war crimes of Japan and the US.

Tourism in North Korea: Frequently asked questions

There are lots of unique rules and regulations around travelling to North Korea as a foreigner, so let’s break these down.

How Much Does It Cost To Visit North Korea?

The North Korean tour companies I mentioned above organise all-inclusive packages. This means all of your meals, transport within the country and hotel will be included in the price. Tour prices range massively — between about £400 and £3500 depending on the length of your tour and the company you choose to go with.

• Lupine Travel tours start at £569 ($740)
• Young Pioneers tours start at £444 ($578)
• Koryo Group tours start at £448 ($583)

You should also bear in mind the cost of getting to North Korea. My  flight from London to Beijing  (the starting point of the tour) was about £500.

Is It Safe To Visit North Korea?

The Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO) advises against all but essential travel to North Korea. They note that “the security situation in North Korea can change with little notice and with no advance warning of possible actions by the North Korean authorities.” However, the FCO also advises the same for many parts of Turkey and Egypt, which are still frequently visited by tourists.

Tensions between North Korea and the United States have calmed and North Korea announced a halt to its missile testing in April 2018. It is now arguably much safer to visit the country than when  I visited in August 2017 .

As long as you follow all the rules outlined to you before you enter North Korea, travel is ‘deemed safe’ in that you are never alone and are not going to be the target of petty crimes such as theft.

While there is definitely some risk in visiting North Korea, if you follow the rules and remain respectful, there should be no issues. Terrorism and crimes towards tourists are highly unlikely and detainment of tourists is rare!

What Are The Rules For Tourists In North Korea?

• Your every movement is watched and monitored and,  under no circumstance , can you wander off on your own. Doing so will result in serious consequences for both you and your tour guide.
• The country dislikes the term North Korea and prefers to be called the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea, or DPRK for short.
• Do not speak negatively about the country or the leaders. Disrespecting the country is viewed as a major offence and has caused problems for tourists in the past.
• You cannot take photos of everything. You’re allowed to take photos of tourist attractions etc, but it is forbidden to photograph the military, labourers or construction sites, among other things.
• You must ensure that any photos of statues of the leaders must capture their whole body — no close-ups or chopping off their feet from the frame.
• Your belongings will be thoroughly searched at the border. It is forbidden to bring religious material, porn or literature or film about North Korea into the country. Please, for heaven’s sake, do not try to bring a copy of  The Interview  into North Korea. Confiscated possessions may not be returned at the border.
• Practising religion is not allowed. North Korea is an atheist country and practising religion there is highly restricted. Praying or showing off a bible is a great way to get detained.
• You cannot speak with random citizens during your time in North Korea, as doing so may be considered espionage.

Will Visiting North Korea Affect Whether Other Countries Grant Me Entry?

Not at all! There are no restrictions on entering any country due to previous entry into North Korea — including South Korea and the United States. In fact, it’s unlikely that border controls will even know you’ve been to North Korea because your visa is issued on a separate piece of paper and your passport is not stamped.

My Experience Visiting North Korea

I found my time in North Korea to actually feel a lot more relaxed than I anticipated. When I first arrived, I was a little nervous and tried not to look at anybody for too long or seem disrespectful in any way.

However, by the end of my second day in North Korea, I felt more relaxed and realised that I just had to follow the rules. I stuck with my tour group, asked permission to take photos, didn’t question any “facts” the tour guides stated about their country, and didn’t try to interact with random locals. In doing this, all was well.

The country was extremely different to how I imagined it and threw a lot of my preconceptions out the window.

I was surprised, for example, to find that Pyongyang was a very picturesque and modern city. I think I had expected it to look kind of grey and old. I was also surprised to see that the countryside was absolutely beautiful, with rolling hills and vivid green colours.

Of course, I also saw plenty of things that upset, angered or confused me a little, such as the phenomenal amount of blatant propaganda and the fact that a guy on my tour got told off for buying ice cream from a nearby stall.

READ MORE:  My North Korea Travel Experience – What’s It Really Like?

What Do You Get To See In North Korea?

The key thing to bear in mind is that you won’t get to see the  real  North Korea. You’ll be ferried from place to place — mostly within Pyongyang — with zero opportunity for independent exploration. You’ll only see what they allow you to see, in what I believe is a very tightly controlled tourist route.

Monuments And Squares

A trip to North Korea will most definitely involve visiting the sites  they want you to see , such as Kim Il Sung Square, the Founding Party Monument, the captured US spy ship USS Pueblo, Kim Il Sung’s native home and many more. These are, what I would call, showpieces of the regime.

The Pyongyang Metro

At 110 metres underground, the Pyongyang metro is the deepest metro station in the world. Covered in propaganda, images of the Kim family, and with station names such as ‘Comrade’, ‘Glory’ and ‘Reunification’, North Korea’s metro is really quite an experience.

While it was definitely the most interesting metro journey I’ve ever been on, the whole scenario was somehow quite strange. You can only ride 5 of the 16 stops — perhaps there’s something secret beyond stop 5.

The Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) is a strip of land running along the Korean Peninsula. It is used as a buffer zone between North and South Korea, and is 160 miles long and 2.5 miles wide.

While tourists can easily visit the DMZ in South Korea, this is a chance to see it from the other side and, of course, hear the story from North Korea’s perspective.

The Kaeson Funfair

The Kaeson Funfair was the only place we were allowed to wander around somewhat freely. Our guides let us mingle with the locals a little and stood guard along the pathways leading to the entry and exit points.

We were, however, told that we should skip all the queues and go straight onto any ride we wanted, because “we’re Western.” This annoyed me, as I didn’t feel that this presented a good view of us as Westerners to the citizens of North Korea. Perhaps they didn’t mind, but as a Brit, orderly queues are an essential part of my culture!

Is It Ethical To Visit North Korea?

This is the most important question you should ask yourself before visiting North Korea: is it ethical?

There is a view that visiting North Korea is potentially helping to  fund the regime . I.e. that you’re helping to fund horrific human rights atrocities and nuclear programmes. However, I believe that the money North Korea receives from tourism is very small. With only 10,000 tourists a year, most of which are from China, how much can they  really  be making from this? It’s not like tourism in North Korea is a booming industry.

I also strongly believe that completely stripping a country of exposure to other cultures and attitudes is detrimental. Contact with the outside world helps to improve the citizens’ views of outsiders, which is a good thing since they’ve held a very bad view of the West for decades. Peace and progression within North Korea are certainly never going to occur if its citizens aren’t exposed to anything other than what they already know.

It’s certainly not a black-and-white answer and is something that you should consider carefully.

READ MORE:  Is It Ethical To Visit North Korea?

About The Author

Lauren Pears is a freelance travel writer and blogger based in London. She writes about active adventure travel, aiming to encourage and inspire travellers to make the most of the great outdoors.

Thank you for reading! If you found this post useful, I’d be grateful if you would consider using the affiliate links below when planning your travels. I’ll make a small commission at no extra cost to you. This will help me to keep this blog running. Thanks for your support – Lauren. Hotels –  Booking.com Hostels –  Hostelworld Cheap flights –  Skyscanner Travel insurance –  World Nomads Outdoor gear –  Decathlon  /  GO Outdoors Cycling gear –  Chain Reaction Cycles Alternatively, you could buy me a coffee to say thanks!

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Thanks a lot for your explanation Lauren this country is my dream to visit , however, I am terrified and nervous. and how I control myself.

I got curious about visiting North Korea since I saw a pic of someone else’s tour there. I didn’t even know it was possible to visit! But then my bubble burst since finding out that it has stopped since covid 🙁 anyways, thanks for writing this, it’s done plenty to satiate my curiosity for now haha

Thanks for reading Monica! Tours will likely open up again at some point in the future 🙂

very good and very detailed article.

Thanks John!

Very informative article on a unique topic, so much appreciated 🙂 I agree with the final message that there is a reciprocal value in connecting with people and cultures all around the world.

Glad you found it informative Lucas!

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How to Visit North Korea

January 9, 2014 by Bino 15 Comments

I thought this post is a bit overdue, but better late than never!

To be honest, I was astonished when I received so many questions on how to visit North Korea after writing about the things to do in Pyongyang some months back. I certainly never expected there to be many people interested to visit this notorious place. When I was planning for the trip, many of my friends rejected me outright when I invited them. Are you crazy? – was the most usual response I got. But fortunately, two friends went with me in the end, so I didn’t have to experience the many “pleasures” of the DPRK by my lonesome!

Visiting North Korea is not as straightforward as visiting other countries. But let me clear up some myths here – it’s not an overly complicated process. Most of the arranging is actually done by the travel agency so one can just sit back and relax for the most part.

If you have intentions of visiting this mysterious country, here are some things to take note of.

Getting a Visa for North Korea

A visa is required for all nationalities except for Malaysians and Singaporeans. In this sense, North Korea has one of the most restrictive entry requirements in the world. Even the two nationalities that don’t need a visa to enter will not be permitted to enter unless they join a tour that is run by the state-owned tourism bureau.

To get the visa, prospective visitors need to go through an appointed travel agency running tours to North Korea. Even if you decide NOT to join a tour group, you will still need to go through one of these agencies. They will take care of booking plane and train tickets for you, verify your tour booking with the North Korean authorities and arrange your itinerary for the trip.

Most visitors obtain their visas in the form of a tourist card in Beijing. However, if you live in a country that has a North Korean embassy, you may obtain your visa there in the traditional way (i.e. a visa sticker stamped to your passport). Do note that for those issued with tourist cards, your passport will not be stamped when you enter / leave North Korea .

In my case, I opted to get a tourist card in Beijing even though there’s an embassy in Singapore, where I live. Nevertheless, the North Korean authorities still did a background check on me. I received a random call one evening where an embassy staff politely asked me my intentions of going to North Korea as well as the whereabouts of my friends who were joining me for the trip.

Requirements:

• Passport-sized photo (no more than 6 months old)
• Passport with minimum 6 months validity
• Application form (do note that the application form for tourist card differs from the one for visa)

Normally, the travel agency will apply for the visa or tourist card on your behalf. Once the North Korean authorities approve it, you will be contacted by the travel agency to make the trip down to the embassy to have the visa stamped in your passport. If you choose to obtain a tourist card, you will be provided details on picking it up in an agreed location in Beijing.

How to get there?

North Korea is one of the most isolated countries in the world. You definitely can’t visit the North from South Korea! Your best bet would be from China where there are direct flights from major cities such as Beijing and Shenyang. During August to September, there may be occasional charter flights that come direct from places like Singapore or Kuala Lumpur.

Alternatively, it’s also possible to visit North Korea by train from China.

While North Korea has its own currency (also called the Won), visitors won’t have to use it. During my visit, Euro was the preferred currency, although it was also possible to use US Dollar or Japanese Yen.

If you’re familiar with Korean food, then the food in North Korea will not surprise. It is precisely that, albeit you will notice there’s less meat and more vegetables used. North Korea is also one of the few countries where you won’t find western brands when it comes to food. No Coca-cola here, folks!

How Many Days Should You Spend in North Korea?

A standard tour running the major attractions lasts for around 9 to 10 days. In my case, I wasn’t so much keen on seeing the natural attractions. I was more keen on watching the mind-boggling Arirang Mass Games and experiencing the showcase capital, Pyongyang so 5 days was enough for me. More recently, there have been budget tours offered that lasts for as short as 3 days, inclusive of the Arirang Mass Games and a whirlwind city tour of Pyongyang.

When to Go?

I visited in August, the peak of summer (and the rainy season) which was the worst time to go weather-wise but I chose to go at this time for the Arirang Mass Games which are held only from August to September of most years.

What is There to See in North Korea?

A question that I get asked often. While your guide will make sure you visit a seemingly endless checklist of monuments, memorials and war museums, for me the real attraction in North Korea is getting to see a country living in a system unlike any other. North Korea won’t be able to boast an attraction as grand as Taj Mahal but for those looking for a unique travel experience, this country surely doesn’t disappoint.

But I did mention in my previous post that I thought North Korea had the most impressive attraction in the entire Korean Peninsula – the Arirang Mass Games . In fact, I count this as one of the most mind-boggling and grandest shows I’ve seen anywhere in the world. It easily beats what the folks over at Las Vegas conjur up year after year. It’s also reason enough to come to North Korea even during the humid and rainy summer season.

For more info on North Korea — do check out my entries on my most surreal North Korea trip

You may also like.

Hi, my name is Bino and I started I Wander around 15 years ago with the aim of sharing about some of my personal journeys and experiences, hoping that the information may benefit readers like yourselves. Let me know your thoughts by leaving a comment below. Alternatively, you can also email me at b i n o (at) iwandered.net. You can follow I Wander on Facebook , Telegram , or Instagram . Also, if you liked this article, please feel free to SHARE or RETWEET

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January 9, 2014 at 7:54 am

Is that Mr. Lim? Pareho tayo ng tour guide, LOL.

January 12, 2014 at 9:35 pm

This is so cool! I want to go to North Korea too but I think it will cost a LOT of money. How did you go about your budget for 5 days? And how much do you think I need if I want to stay for 1-2 weeks (since required din to always have a guide right?) I want to witness Arirang Mass Games! 😀

January 12, 2014 at 10:54 pm

Hi Mariane! You can check around the different travel agencies for their prices. Generally the lowest I’ve seen is about EUR 700 – 800 for a 5 day tour while a 10 day tour will cost upwards of EUR 1,300

January 12, 2014 at 11:53 pm

Interesting! I wish I could go backpacking in DPKR (eek, not possible). But seriously, North Korea is on my bucket list. I’ll go there someday when my travel fund is close to being enough.

March 9, 2014 at 6:27 am

Hi, I am from Singapore. Why did you opt to get a tourist card in Beijing when you know that you could easily get a visa from the North Korean embassy stationed in Singapore? What are the benefits of doing this way?

March 9, 2014 at 4:24 pm

Kris – I wanted to avoid North Korea stamps in my passport. Just in case other countries might refuse entry because of it

March 11, 2014 at 8:55 pm

Hmmm yes after what you mentioned above, I read some advice that leaving a North Korean stamp on my passport would have me refused entry by certain countries in the future. But some others say it will not affect in any way unless I have a stamp from Israel. If I choose to go to the DPRK embassy in Singapore, it would mean that the visa would be glued onto my passport and get stamped on entry? Or they will issue me a tourist visa separately from my passport?

March 12, 2014 at 10:25 pm

If you get the visa from the embassy in Singapore, it means you will get it glued in your passport and stamped upon entry

May 14, 2016 at 5:30 pm

Hi. What travel agency did you go to in arranging your trip to North Korea? Is there any in Singapore.? Thanks a lot

May 16, 2016 at 9:01 pm

Hi – the travel agency that arranged my journey is no longer operating sadly!

May 10, 2016 at 9:20 am

Hi, I am from Singapore. Which tour agency did you go with?

May 16, 2016 at 9:02 pm

Hi Phylis, unfortunately the travel agency that arranged my tour no longer operates.

February 3, 2018 at 7:15 pm

I’m a Canadian living in Dubai. I’m interested in a tour, possibly a ski vacation. Is it possible? How much lead time does one need for planning a trip to NK?

February 3, 2018 at 9:43 pm

Allow for around 3 months lead time to be safe.

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6 day itinerary for a trip to North Korea, the most isolated country

Newly opened Pyongyang airport

The world’s most secretive and isolated country is the focus of many a story . We all imagine days filled with propaganda billboards, a sad and brain-washed population, grey communist architecture and Orwell’s 1984 Big Brother watching over one’s shoulder.

The truth? Very much as the expectations I had built with some caveats, some exaggerations, some underestimations and some interesting revelations  to one of the least visited countries in the world . Six days packed with intense moments, fact-filled visits and lots of human interactions. A trip back in history, to the 40s or 50s, to a country which was frozen then and has not been exposed to modern developments since. This is my itinerary for a six day and six night trip to North Korea – world’s most fascinating country.

Arrival day

Briefing at beijing airport.

We met the representative from Koryo Tours for a run through of the instructions that we received via email. We were reminded of what we can and cannot do and of what to expect. This is mainly an administrative hurdle but one that is important for the agency. If we caused any troubles their license could be revoked.

Boarding and flight to Pyongyang

The check-in counter for Air Koryo was not marked and there were very few passengers checking in save for a group of children coming from the Asian Games and a group of deaf-mute passengers. The boarding pass is printed on Air China paper. Security at Beijing airport is always strict and we were manually searched. We were told that the guides appreciate gifts as a sign of gratefulness so we proceeded to the Duty Free to get a bottle of whiskey, a box of chocolates and a packet of Marlboro. There were going to be three people with us, two guides and one driver. This is standard for all groups, regardless of size. The two guides are supposed to watch over each other.

There were no boarding announcements or signs and Pyongyang was not mentioned at the gate’s screen either. We boarded late and there were no in-flight announcements by the cabin or the pilot. The security brief was done via a muted video. The plane was dated but in good shape.

Arrival and immigration

We were briefed in detail about the arrival and customs procedures and everything happened as we expected. Our electronics and books were taken out of our bags and individually checked by a custom’s staff member. He turned on the laptops and searched for movies. We were through in no time and our guides were waiting for us outside. The process was efficient if cumbersome. There were no name signs, our guides recognized us straightaway, we were the only two tourists coming out alone.

Arch of triumph

On our way to the hotel we stopped at the Arch of Triumph to take some photos . The arch was erected at the place where President Kim Il Song greeted the people upon his return from the Japanese war.

Check in at Koryo Hotel

We were advised in the morning briefing that our hotel had been changed. There were no explanations about the reasons and our guides and liaison did not know why so we ended up at Koryo Hotel, one of the first to be built in 1985. The hotel was dated and both grand and old fashioned in the way the entire country is. There were sparkling chandeliers and thick marble walls, floors and ceilings and the common areas were large and palatial. The rooms looked like a 1980s 3-star hotel. The bathroom had been fitted in, as an entirely prefabricated unit, after construction, and the walls and floors were made of plastic. The beds and the sofa were extremely hard, much like all the seating in the country. There was no padding or mattress. We had a higher luxury room with a lounge area and a TV that showed the BBC World , Al Jezeera and RT TV.

Beer at the lobby and review of itinerary

Han and Pak, our guides, advised us to go over the itinerary and discuss whether we wanted to change anything on the same night so we had a beer at the lobby bar while we compared itineraries and expectations.

Dinner at the hotel

Dinner was booked at the hotel restaurant, a few feet away from the entrance, in the basement. We got what would become the staple meal: kimchi, sprouts, salad, soup, omelet and a meat dish. All other tourists arriving spent their first evening at the hotel.

Mansudae Fountain Park

The morning raised foggy and hazy, much like every morning would. The fountain park was exactly that. We took the opportunity to buy flowers for the Mansudae Grand Monument. “We would appreciate it if you could buy flowers for the Leaders”, were the guide’s exact words. We read through the lines and understood it was an order.

Mansudae Grand Monument

Mansundae Grand Monument

This is the grandest of all monuments to the leaders and the various wars North Korea endured. The Monument depicts Kim Il Song and Kim Jong Il bronze statues surrounded by sculptural groups representing the anti-Japanese struggle and the Socialist revolution and reconstruction. We had to bow after offering the flowers, standing in line, in front of the sculptures. From there we could see the Chollima statue, a mythologic horse that is said to be able to gallop 400km in one day.

Grand People’s Study House

Computer class

A good old library which was an interesting part of the day. We visited several rooms and were shown the way the books are retrieved, in an hydraulic conveyor belt linked to a computer. In the music and TV room we were played ABBA. Students learned English and how to use a computer in some of the rooms, the iconic Windows XP logo dancing on the screens. The building was so large that it is said to house 30 million books and be able to host 12,000 people. From the rooftop we got a first hand view of the rehearsals for the celebration of Liberation Day later that week. Hundreds of Young Pioneer children were forming the various shapes and letters on the grand square below, dressed in their navy blue trousers, white shirt and red scarf.

Mansundae Art Studio

This is where all the sculptures and paintings displayed across all the other buildings and grand monuments are created and artists could be seen at work. Since it was a Saturday, we could not see the artists who were “Busy discussing the Party’s ideology”.

Pyongyang Metro (5 stops)

Looking very similar to the Moscow metro, the Pyongyang metro, I later discovered, was built entirely under “The guidance of President Kim Il Song”, as the guide announced, and made entirely with Korean materials. Engineering skill set aside, the stations were huge and decorated with gigantic mosaics and sculptures. We visited five stations, including the famous Glory Station with firework chandeliers. The carriages were bare and the doors opened manually. The stations were buried one hundred meters, or two minutes, under ground on the “self-reliant” escalators and are said to double as bomb shelters.

Mangyongdae – Birth place of Kim Il Sung

Located in the outskirts of Pyongyang this is the birth place of the Founding Eternal President. A local English-speaking guide provided a solemn tour of his house. Kim Il Song’s family was living there in exchange for taking care of the property and cemetery of a rich family. There were photos of his family and his childhood. This was the first bit of extreme cult adulation that would become the background theme of all mentions of the Eternal Leader.

Shopping at a supermarket

We asked to stop at a supermarket to see what was on sale and buy some soju. The supermarket had much of the usual packaged goods with several international brands from Vietnam, Thailand and even Europe. Hard liquors like Chivas or wine from France were easily available, as were Oreo and other well-known brands.

Korea Stamp Shop near the hotel

One of the most interesting souvenirs one can take from North Korea are the postcards and stamps. The most common ones portrayed propaganda messages and aggressively anti-american images with missiles being dropped on the White House and American soldiers being stabbed.

Juche Tower

View from above Juche Tower

President Kim Il Song’s Juche Idea philosophy undermines his socialist thinking. It is more of an ideology than a socialist theory and it revolves around the self. The Juche Tower was decorated with plaques sent by various institutions from around the world who support the ideology. We rode up on the elevator to the 130th floor for a 360 degree view of the city. This was the first place we were actively sold to by a local guide.

Taedonggang No.3 Micro Brewery

Beer is popular and easily available, more so than water. Microbrewery No.3 was in front of the Juche Tower and served various blends of rice and barley beers. The bar was made to look like a German beer bar so we ordered chewy pretzels to go with the beer.

Kumsusan Palace of the Sun

This is the most iconic visit in North Korea. The Mausoleum where both Kim Jong Il and Kim Il Song were on display, in separate red granite red-lit rooms, was a rather formal and official affair. We were specifically told to dress properly, long sleeves, closed shoes, shirt and tie for the men. Basically, we had to wear our best clothes on the day. “You made me proud, you are the best dressed in the entire group”, celebrated our guide when I asked if we were appropriately dressed. I will admit it, I was afraid of not looking goof enough after she had threatened the day before that she hoped “I would dress better tomorrow for the Mausoleum”. You can read a more in-depth review here .

The building was huge and only accessible via a series of travelometers, in an orderly line. Several security checks were in force and cameras were not allowed in. We had to bow three times in front of each leader, once at each side and once at their feet. The building also displayed all of they degrees, medals and honorary awards. There were hundreds of these from all the known socialist and communist countries from East Germany to South American economies and even small counties in the UK or France. The vehicles, trains and boats used by the Leaders were also on display as was an interactive map showing the routes each traveled by plane or train. Watch out for the Macbook on Kim Jong Il’s train desk.

Martyr’s Cementery on Mount Taesung

Following from the Palace of the Sun was the Cemetery where the martyrs of the Independence struggle were buried. Busts of some of the fighters were designed and displayed in various rows going up the hill. Bowing was a must.

Kim Il Sung Square

The heartbeat of the city, filled with children rehearsing for Liberation Day celebrations on 15th August . The square is massive, large enough to host military parades.

Foreign Language Bookstore

The fascinatingly propagandistic ideology of the leaders turned into written paraphernalia. Posters, memorabilia and the works of Kim Jong Il available for purchase. There are condensed biographies or, if you feel like it, the twenty five volumes of his entire philosophy.

Walk in Morabong Park and dance with the locals

Pyongyang is a very green and grey city. Aside from the primarily socialist buildings there are numerous parks and trees. A walk in Morabong park is a welcome respite from the pavement and the monotony of the city. I also got to dance with a group of locals who were enjoying music and dancing under a pagoda. They took no time in grabbing my hand and taking me to the middle where a lady showed me the moves.

Drive to Kaesong (160km)

Road to Kaesong

We drove all the way to Kaesong, a far 3h away, on the world’s most potholed road. We slept in Kaesong’s folk hotel, on thick hard mattresses and heated floors.

Walk in Kaesong traditional town

Kaesong is a medium city and the heritage center of North Korea. It was the capital from the 10th to the 14th century. We walked along its streets among hordes of bicycles to a centenarian city wall bell.

Koryo Museum

A UNESCO site and a most interesting collection of art, artifacts, maps and manuscripts from the time of the Koryo Unified state.

Kaesong Stamp Shop

Another opportunity to buy stamps and postcards, which will sow that you actually visited the country as your passport will not receive a stamp as it’s kept outside the country until you return to your point of departure.

Panmunjom and DMZ

DMZ North Korea

The Demarkation Line and Demilitarized Zone was a heavily secured area. We were escorted by one of the soldiers, unarmed, who rode with us in the car. Explanations were given on the Armistice Talks and the Signing and Negotiations. The various Halls are filled with documents, photographies and items explaining the process and the years of Armistice Talks. The DMZ is flanked by two kilometers of buffer zone where farmers still live and grow their produce. The area was peaceful and looking like the rest of North Korea. The soldiers were friendly and open to discuss their views. When I asked if he thought South Koreans wanted peace and unification, our soldier-custodian replied a vivacious, “Yes!”. Signs of land mine claims by the South were dismissed by the soldier who insisted it as a “De-militarized zone”. We saw animals grazing inside the neutral zone. Here is my full review of the DMZ tour .

Pansanggi special lunch

A lunch served in several small golden bowls with a variety of foods including spinach, bean sprouts, pickled radish, egg, potato and vegetable stew, fried tofu, seaweed chips, acorn jelly, steamed rice, dried fish and anchovies, beef broth, kimchi soup, fried potatoes, and dessert of glutinous rice balls with red bean paste. We also got a shot of pine tree liquor.

Concrete wall (21km from Kaesong)

Spying on South Korean lines

The wall built along the 240km long demarkation line is dotted with soldier posts, tanks and other defense mechanisms. From this point, near Kaesong, one can view the concrete wall, two kilometers away, thanks to a couple of telescopes. We were escorted by a Colonel of the Army on our visit. Mobile phone signal from South Korea can be picked here. The US and South Korea claim the wall does not exist but it is visible from this viewpoint.

Drive back to Pyongyang

Reunification monument.

Two ladies, one from the North and one form the South holding hands as a representation of Korea’s unification

Dinner of bibimbap

The first, but not the last, time that we enjoyed Korea’s most traditional dish: bibimbap . A base of rice topped with condiments of meat, vegetables, pickles and chili sauce.

Victorious Fatherland War Museum

An epic war museum like no other. A collection of 4 floors of never-ending rooms that would take three days to cover. I attempted a summary in less than two hours. The Museum depicts all spheres of the various struggles against Japan and the Korea War. USS Pueblo, the captured US boat that sought to infiltrate Korean waters in search of military data and whose officers and sailors were held for eleven months, is also on display, as are various captured enemy weapons including helicopters, tanks, gun machines and all sorts of military items shown next to the photos of the captured soldiers. The stories of war were unequivocally told from the Korean side, obviously, but were nonetheless fascinating. A revolving panorama diorama of one of the battles was a masterpiece worth a visit. I had to sit through various movies, including one on Pueblo and one on the breakout of the Korea War. The American bashing and propaganda reached its climax.

Metro Museum

A large building relating the entire engineering feat that the metro was. This was the time when the most paternalistic side of the Leader was shown. His name was mentioned countless times in the hour I was there and I had to sit through various rooms and models of all stages of the construction of the metro, and hear of every time the Eternal President gave instructions on how to blow a hole faster, how to get rid of the water, how to design the stations…A serious effort of socialist propaganda. As the country was largely isolated, Koreans had to built their own machines and use local materials for the construction of the various stations.

Lunch bibimbap

3 Revolutions Exhibition

A dated version of the Universal Exhibition Halls with pretty much anything that Korea ever produced, from foodstuff to heavy machinery. Uninspiring, yet terribly interesting in a perverse, voyeuristic manner.

Pyongyang School Children’s Palace

Child plays a traditional instrument

Talented school children can attend any of the Children’s Palaces (there are two in PY) to further enhance their skills. I toured the various rooms to watch and hear children playing instruments, embroidering beautiful art pieces or singing. The visit was completed with a one hour performance of the most talented children in the grand theater. Cute and entertaining, if extremely socialistic in the way that only China and the Soviet Union could be.

Paradise Microbrewery Beer Bar

Another microbrewery to enjoy one

Dinner of cold noodles

The second most famous dish in Korea is a variation of bibimbap substituting rice with cold buckwheat noodles and broth with similar toppings.

Drive to Nampo (40km)

Nampo is a coastal town and a harbor, the most important maritime link into China and the export channel for North Korea’s natural resources.

Wau Islet (beach)

Kids and adults playing in the water

We had asked for the beach, and we got it. Nampo Islet is a brown-green water reservoir by the sea very popular with day trippers and locals. The most obvious revelation of soviet manufacturing and textiles was in full swing as men, women and children wore the exact same swimming gear. A sight to behold, of only for the first ten minutes.

Picnic lunch

We were supposed to have a picnic at the mountains but eventually we simply ate our lunch in a room at the cooperative farm.

Chongsanri Cooperative Farm

Flowers along rice paddies

It was supposed to be a visit to a proper farm but we only got a brief explanation about the female figure that is in charge of the Cooperative model, had to buy flowers to offer to the Leader’s statue and then went on a very short trip to see the rice paddies.

Kongso Tomb

This was one of the most fascinating parts of the trip. The tombs were discovered in the 70s but have been largely forgotten. They were listed with UNESCO in the early 2000s but receive very few visitors. The Manager arrived quickly, a few minutes after us, when the local guard called him upon our arrival. He was excited to see tourists and admitted the last British tour did not come for the last ten years. He waived the 100 euro fee thanks to our rareness. We got inside the well-preserved chilling tombs and observed the wall murals. On the way to and from the tombs we got lost in the countryside, in a part o the country we feared we should not have seen.

Walk in Dragon Mountain (Ryongak)

Exhausted from the bumpy roads and the many night without sleep, we trekked up the Dragon Mountains with visible fatigue. The park is beautifully green and a wonderful escape from the city.

Dinner of duck barbecue

Farewell dinner of duck BBQ. The guides finally opened up a bit and we shared many scenes of common life.

Kaeson Youth Park Fun Fair

Pyongyang Fun Fair

The last night was topped with a visit to one of the two fun fairs. I rode a few of the scary attractions, jumping the queue, after paying an exorbitant 5 euro fee per ride (after the entrance fee). Locals queued, orderly, for their turn. They laughed and enjoyed the evening, much like in an amusement park anywhere in the world.

In what is possibly the most efficient check in and departure procedures I have ever experiences, even better than Singapore’s Changi, we traveled to the airport 1h before departure and made it on time for our flight back to Beijing.

If I would do it again, what would I change? I would avoid the Metro Museum and the 3 Revolutions Exhibition Hall. I would also skip Nampo, fascinating, but not worth the terrible road. Instead, I would visit the mountain parks in the north, much more beautiful and providing insights into the countryside.

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North Korea

• 3 Other destinations
• 4.1.1 Prehistory and founding of a nation
• 4.1.2 Joseon Dynasty
• 4.1.3 Japanese occupation and a divided Korea
• 4.1.4 Modern North Korea
• 4.2 Government and politics
• 4.4 Climate
• 4.5 Terrain
• 4.7 Visitor information
• 5.1.1 Additional restrictions
• 5.2.1 The Korean Demilitarized Zone
• 5.3.1 Air Koryo
• 5.3.2 Air China
• 5.4 By train
• 5.5 By boat
• 6 Get around
• 10.2 Souvenirs
• 16.1 Photography
• 16.2 Korean nationals
• 16.3 Politics
• 16.4 Illegal substances
• 16.5 Religious activity
• 16.6 Emergency numbers
• 17 Stay healthy
• 18.1 Tour conduct
• 18.2 Sensitive issues
• 18.3 Religion
• 19.1.1 Mobile phones
• 19.2 By Internet

North Korea ( Korean : 조선 Chosŏn ), officially the Democratic People's Republic of Korea or DPRK (조선민주주의인민공화국, Chosŏn Minjujuŭi Inmin Konghwaguk ) is the world's most isolated country and has usually been referred to as the "Hermit Kingdom". It's located in East Asia on the Korean Peninsula , which has been divided between North and South Korea since the 1950s.

One of the few remaining communist states in the world and the last frontier of the Cold War , North Korean society is dominated and run by a very strict, controlling, and totalitarian government that maintains a very tight grip over its people. The government is in firm control of just about everything in the country. For example, they own the country's factories, farms, enterprises, and even all the automobiles driven by its citizens.

Tourists may only travel to North Korea as part of a guided tour and they can expect to be under constant supervision and monitoring by the authorities. About 5,000 Western tourists visit North Korea every year. Most complete the journey safely, so long as they follow their ever-present guides. Incidents have occurred, and when they do, due process is hard to come by. The most likely consequence of any trouble with the authorities is a period of detention before deportation.

If the idea of accepting strict limitations on your freedom of expression, movement and behaviour, or the risk of arbitrary, indefinite detention seems unsettling to you, it is recommended that you do not travel to North Korea.

Regions [ edit ]

Cities [ edit ]

• 39.019 125.738 1 Pyongyang (평양) — the capital city and the former capital of Goguryeo during the Three Kingdoms period
• 41.783 129.766 2 Chongjin (청진) — Industrial city in the North East, very rarely visited by tourists
• 39.916 127.533 3 Hamhung (함흥) — Northern city, also rarely on official travel itineraries
• 39.698 125.906 4 Kaechon (개천) — home of the Songam Cavern
• 37.966 126.55 5 Kaesong (개성) — former capital during the Goryeo dynasty
• 38.733 125.4 6 Nampho (남포) — industrial centre and port on the western coast
• 42.344 130.384 7 Rason (라선) — Free trade zone on the Russian border, complete with casino
• 40.1 124.4 8 Sinuiju (신의주) — bleak industrial city right on the border with China. Probably the easiest ways to look into the country from the outside
• 39.147 127.446 9 Wonsan (원산) — East coast port city slowly opening to tourists, and it has the first ski resort in the country

Other destinations [ edit ]

• 38.688056 128.200278 1 Kumgangsan (금강산) — the scenic Diamond Mountain
• 40.018611 126.333056 2 Myohyangsan (묘향산) — this Mysterious Fragrant Mountain is one of the North's best hiking spots
• 42.005556 128.055278 3 Baekdu Mountains (백두산) — the tallest mountain in Korea and the Kim dynasty's mythical birthplace
• 37.956 126.677 4 Panmunjom (판문점) — the last outpost of the Cold War in the DMZ between South and North

Understand [ edit ]

History [ edit ], prehistory and founding of a nation [ edit ].

Archaeological finds of prehistoric toolmaking on the Korean Peninsula date back to 70,000 BC with the first pottery found around 8000 BC. Comb-pattern pottery culture peaked around 3500-2000 BC.

Legend has it that Korea began with the founding of Gojoseon (also called Ancient Chosun ) by the legendary Dangun in 2333 BC. Archeological and contemporaneous written records of Gojoseon as a kingdom date back to around 7th-4th century BC. Gojoseon was eventually defeated by the Chinese Han Dynasty in 108 BC and its territories were governed by four Chinese commanderies, but this did not last long. Natives of the peninsula and Manchuria soon reclaimed the territory, namely the Three Kingdoms of Korea, Goguryeo, Silla, and Baekje. The Goguryeo Kingdom (or Koguryo) ruled the entire area of modern North Korea, as well as parts of Manchuria and the northern parts of modern South Korea. Buddhist and Confucian teachings were prominent in the Goguryeo Kingdom, which adopted Buddhism as the state religion in 372. Despite repeated attempts by China, namely the Sui Dynasty and later the Tang Dynasty, to conquer the Korean Peninsula, northern-based Goguryeo managed to repel them. Eventually, Goguryeo fell to a Silla-Tang alliance, which had earlier defeated Baekje. This unified Korea under the Silla dynasty. Even though Tang later invaded, Silla forces managed to drive them out, thus maintaining Korea's independence.

Unified Silla was replaced by the Goryeo (also called Koryo ) dynasty, from which the modern name "Korea" derives. One highlight of the Goryeo dynasty was that in 1234 the world's first metal movable type was invented by a Korean named Choe Yun-ui (200 years before Gutenberg's printing press).

Buddhist learning spread during this time and the former Baekje and Goguryeo leaders were treated well. The kingdom saw relative peace until the 8th and 9th centuries when clan leaders led uprisings and toppled the Silla, establishing the Goryeo Dynasty from which the name "Korea" was derived by Westerners. During this period, the nation suffered Mongol invasions, which led to unrest and the eventual establishment of the Joseon Dynasty in 1392.

Joseon Dynasty [ edit ]

The Joseon Dynasty was one of the longest-running dynasties in the world (512 years), ruling from 1392 until 1910. King Sejong the Great' s rule was especially celebrated, as he helped create the Korean script, choson'gul , which allowed even the commoners to become literate. He also expanded the nation's military power to drive out Japanese pirates and northern nomads and regain territories that had been lost. The Japanese invaded Korea under the leadership of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, though the Joseon Dynasty managed to drive them out with the support of China's Ming Dynasty, albeit with heavy losses in the Korean peninsula. In spite of its losses, the nation experienced about 200 years of peace, and its isolationist policies allowed it to further develop a uniquely Korean culture and identity.

Rapid modernisation stirred by the Second Industrial Revolution created tension between China and Japan as they felt the pressures of Western expansionism, each wanting to extend their influence over Korea. Ensuing wars between Japan, China and Russia led to increasing Japanese influence over the peninsula, resulting in Korea's status as a vassal state of Imperial China ending in 1895, and Japan annexing Korea outright in 1910, marking the end of the Joseon dynasty and Korean independence.

Japanese occupation and a divided Korea [ edit ]

Japan ruled the Korea as a colony until its defeat in World War II in 1945. During that period, the Japanese committed numerous atrocities including massacres, and forced many Korean women to become "comfort women", sex slaves in Japanese military brothels. Moreover, Japan instituted a cultural assimilation policy, forcing the Koreans to adopt Japanese names, and forbidding them from speaking the Korean language.

Japan was forced to give up control of all its colonies after is defeat in World War II in 1945, and the Allied Powers divided Korea along the 38th Parallel, with the Soviet Union occupying the northern half and the United States occupying the southern half. The divide was supposed to be temporary; however, the political power struggle between the two nations to gain influence over the unified Korea led each to establish governments within their newly created territories. North Korea was established as its own nation in 1948 with the support of the Soviet Union, following the Soviet communist model, with Kim Il-Sung as its leader, while at about the same time, Syngman Rhee established a capitalist regime with the support of the United States in the south.

Agitation between the North and South came to a head in 1950 when the North started the Korean War by attempting to reunify the country under its terms by launching an invasion. The Soviet Union and China fought alongside the North against the South, who were in turn backed by the United Nations (UN) forces led by the United States . The UN forces drove the North Korean forces all the way up to the Chinese border, whereupon Chinese reinforcements forced the UN forces to be driven back south. The war finally resulted in the signing of an armistice in 1953, largely maintaining the original borders set prior to the war. Because no peace treaty has been signed since the armistice, the nations of South Korea and North Korea are officially still at war.

Modern North Korea [ edit ]

With the nation in shambles after the war, Kim Il-Sung launched a campaign to unite the people by defaming the United States with Soviet support and purging the nation of dissidents and anyone thought to oppose him. He sided with China during the Sino-Soviet split on Communist philosophy because he disliked Khrushchev's reforms but began to praise the Soviet Union once again when China underwent its Cultural Revolution, straining relations with both neighbors. Consequently, he developed his own ideology, Juche ("self-reliance"), to create the sort of Communism he wanted for his nation. Throughout his life, Kim Il-Sung added to and clarified the Juche ideology in order to justify his governing decisions.

The Korean War not only divided the people, but it also divided the labor force. When the peninsula was united, North Korea had most of the nation's industries while South Korea was the agricultural center. This divide allowed North Korea to initially bounce back faster than the South in the rebuilding process. The Soviet Union then funded agricultural efforts in the North, in accordance with the Communist model. This system began to unravel in the late 1970s and 1980s as the Soviet system began to falter. With the end of Soviet aid following its dissolution in 1991, there was no way to continue to support the agricultural systems' needs for fuel, fertilizer and equipment. After so many years of government mismanagement, and the bad timing of severe flooding, the North's agricultural system collapsed in the mid-1990s, leading to widespread famine and death for countless North Koreans. The death of Kim Il-Sung in 1994 took place while the nation tried to deal with the crisis, slowing government response as the new leader, Kim Jong-Il, took his father's position.

The North finally allowed international relief agencies to assist, and the worst aspects of the famine were contained. However, the DPRK continues to rely heavily on international food aid to feed its population while at the same time continuing to expend resources on its songun , or "military first", policy, which Kim Jong-Il introduced and used in conjunction with his father's Juche ideology (which he "interpreted").

Today the DPRK maintains an army of about 1 million infantrymen, most stationed close to the DMZ which divides the two Koreas. North Korea's long-range missile development and research into nuclear, chemical, and biological weapons and massive conventional armed forces are of major concern to the international community. In December 2002, Kim Jong-Il reneged on a 1994 "Agreed Framework" signed by his father which required the shut down of its nuclear reactors, expelling UN monitors and further raising fears that the nation would produce nuclear weapons. Missile testing was conducted in 1998, 2006 and April 2009. In October 2006 North Korea announced that it had conducted its first nuclear test. These actions have led to UN and other international sanctions.

Current negotiations, most notably the "Six-Party Talks" involving China, Russia, Japan, North Korea, South Korea and the United States, are aimed at bringing about an end to the DPRK nuclear weapons program, in hopes that a peace treaty to officially end the Korean War may finally be agreed upon, paving the way for the opening of diplomatic ties between North Korea and the United States. Unfortunately, in March 2010, a South Korean ship was sunk near the 38th parallel, increasing tensions between North and South Korea. Although North Korea claims not to have attacked the ship, the blame has largely been placed on North Korea.

The death of Kim Jong-Il in late 2011 created a measure of uncertainty during the transfer of power to his son Kim Jong-Un; though the country has appeared to have stabilized since, considerable tensions have occurred intermittently.

Government and politics [ edit ]

North Korea is a totalitarian dictatorship. The government is led by the State Affairs Commission (SAC), which sets national policy and is directly responsible for the military. The supreme leader (Kim Jong-un) is chairman of the SAC, as well as head of the Workers' Party of Korea and several other positions. Atop the administrative branch of the government is the cabinet, which is headed by the premier (like a prime minister).

The cabinet is appointed by the unicameral Supreme People's Assembly (SPA) which heads the legislative branch, although bills are drafted by the Party and the almost 700-person SPA almost always passes them without debate or modification. Moreover, it's in recess all but a few days a year, leaving most authority in the hands of the 15-person Presidium. The judiciary is headed by the Supreme Court, whose three justices are elected, partisan, and accountable to the SPA. The judiciary is not independent and does not have the power to overrule the legislative or executive branches of government, and interference from security forces is a widespread problem.

Despite North Korea's isolation from the rest of the world and its label as the "Hermit Kingdom", it maintains diplomatic relations with 160-170 countries around the globe and is a member of several international organisations, including the World Health Organization. North Korea has cordial relations with its neighbours Russia (the first country to recognise North Korea) and China and several African and Asian nations, and has incredibly tense relations with the United States , Japan , and the European Union .

People [ edit ]

North Korea may be the most ethnically homogeneous nation on earth, with everyone being Korean save for a few hundred foreigners. These foreigners are mostly diplomatic or aid agency workers, along with a small population of Japanese who have Korean ancestry. Almost no South Koreans live in North Korea.

North Korean society is strongly divided and organised along a caste system known as Songbun . Membership of one of three main groups is determined not only by an individual's political, social and economic background, but also that of their family for the previous three generations. Education and professional opportunities are effectively defined by an individual's class.

Climate [ edit ]

The climate is generally classed as continental, with rainfall concentrated in summer. Summer months are warm, but winter temperatures can fall as low as -30°C. Late spring droughts are often followed by severe flooding. There are occasional typhoons during the early autumn.

Terrain [ edit ]

Mostly hills and mountains separated by deep, narrow valleys; coastal plains are wide in the west and discontinuous in the east. The mountainous interior is both isolated and sparsely populated.

Read [ edit ]

The Accusation , by Bandi. A collection of short stories, published abroad by a pseudonymous North Korean writer, that are highly critical of the Kim regime and full of piercing insight into its contradictions and cruelties. Uniquely among North Korean dissident literature, they were published with their author still living in the country.

Nothing to Envy: Ordinary Lives in North Korea , Barbara Demick. An excellent book recounting the lives of six North Koreans who managed to defect and find their way to South Korea. Provides a compelling picture of the miseries and occasional beauty in the lives of ordinary North Koreans during the famine of the 1990s. ISBN 0385523912

Eyes of the Tailless Animals: Prison Memoirs of a North Korean Woman , by Soon Ok Lee. First-hand accounts of the prison system within North Korea.

Escape from Camp 14: One Man's Remarkable Odyssey from North Korea to Freedom in the West , by Blaine Harden. The riveting story of Shin Dong-hyuk, one of the only known surviving escapees of a North Korean prison camp, and his perilous journey out of the country.

Without You There Is No Us , by Suki Kim. A fascinating piece of investigative journalism about teaching English as a foreigner in Pyongyang.

Visitor information [ edit ]

The Korean Friendship Association provides North Korean-related material, including tourism tips.

Get in [ edit ]

North Korean entry requirements are perplexing and change frequently without prior warning.

After several years of complete closure due to COVID-19, the first international tourist group landed in North Korea in February 2024.

Due to longstanding international sanctions and tensions in the Korean peninsula, you can only enter North Korea from either China or Russia. Generally speaking, most people fly or take the train from Beijing .

Visas [ edit ]

Everyone needs a visa to visit North Korea. Tourists typically arrange a tourist visa by booking a tour with a travel agency that organises such tours. The travel agencies will usually deal with the visa on their behalf, although in some cases tourists are required to have a short telephone interview with the North Korean embassy to verify their identity and their job. In most cases, the interview is conducted in a friendly manner so it is nothing to be worried about. Visas are often only confirmed on the day before the tour, but rarely will a tourist ever be rejected unless you show that you are of political status or a journalist.

North Korean tourist visas are often issued on a tourist card. If joining a tour group, group visas are often issued on separate sheets of paper containing all the members of the group, attached with a tourist card that bears the name of the tour leader. This visa itself is never held by the tourists, although tourists can ask to take a photo of their visa. In any case, no stamp will be placed in the passport. The only way where a visa and entrance stamp will be stamped on the passport is when the visa is issued within a North Korean embassy in Europe.

Additional restrictions [ edit ]

Journalists or those suspected of being journalists require special permission, which is quite difficult to obtain. North Korea does not allow journalists to visit on a tourist visa.

Citizens of Malaysia were being prevented from leaving North Korea after the March 2017 assassination of Kim Jong-Nam, where Malaysia wanted several North Korean diplomats and nationals for questioning. While restrictions for Malaysians leaving North Korea have now been lifted, the era of visa-free travel between these once relatively 'friendly' countries is over.

Citizens of South Korea are not permitted to enter North Korea unless they have permission from the governments of both the North, for entry, and the South from the Ministry of Unification (통일부). South Korean citizens may face a lengthy prison sentence under the National Security Act (국가보안법) on their return if they do not obtain permission beforehand. South Korean citizens travelling to North Korea on a passport from a different country still risk prosecution.

Contrary to rumour, Israelis and Jewish citizens of other countries do not face any additional restrictions.

Tours [ edit ]

• Uri Tours Inc. - NYC, US (runs standard and customized tours to the DPRK; also an Air Koryo ticketing agent in the US)
• Asia Senses Travel Travel & Tour [dead link] - Hanoi, Vietnam
• DDCTS [dead link] - Dandong, China
• GLO Travel [dead link] - Hong Kong - largest North Korean tour operator in Hong Kong, clients mostly are from Hong Kong, Taiwan, Singapore and Overseas Chinese communities. Also organises cultural exchanges, sports events, volunteering and TV programmes on North Korea.
• INDPRK [dead link] - Zhejiang, China
• Juche Travel Services - UK, Beijing
• Koryo Tours and Koryo Group - Beijing, Shanghai, Belgium, UK. Also organises school visits and sports exchanges and has co-produced 3 documentary films about North Korea. English tour only.
• North Korea Travel - Sheyang, China
• Young Pioneer Tours - Beijing, China. Offers very low budget tours.
• Choson Exchange - Singapore, UK & USA. Not a tour agency, rather they provide training in business and entrepreneurship in North Korea to businesswomen, young entrepreneurs and researchers, and bring volunteer/tourists to help them to do so.
• MBC Travel [dead link] - Jakarta, Indonesia
• Korea Konsult - Stockholm, Sweden
• Korea Reisedienst - Hannover, Germany
• Lupine Travel - Wigan, UK.
• NoordKorea2GO [dead link] - Amsterdam, Netherlands
• Regent Holidays - Bristol, UK
• Pyongyang Travel - Berlin, Germany (offers group tours, private tours and New Year's Tours to North Korea)
• Viajes Pujol - Barcelona, Spain
• VNC Asia Travel [dead link] - Utrecht, Netherlands
• Your Planet - Hilversum, Netherlands

No matter which company you decide to book with, all tours are run by the Korean International Travel Company (with the exception of a few, such as Choson Exchange and The Pyongyang Project who both work directly with various government ministries and domestic DPRK NGOs) and it will be their guides who show you around. The average number of tourists per group each company takes will vary considerably so you may want to ask about this before booking a trip.

Most people travelling to North Korea will travel through Beijing and you will probably pick up your visa from there, although some agents arrange their visas elsewhere beforehand though. The North Korean consulate building is separate from the main embassy building at Ritan Lu, and is round the corner at Fangcaodi Xijie. It's open M, W, F 09:30-11:30 & 14:00-17:30; and Tu, Th, Sa 09:30-11:30. Bring your travel permission, US$45 and two passport photos.

Your guides will take your passport and keep it during your stay in North Korea, or at least for the first couple of days of your tour, for "security reasons", or simply because your entry and exit dates must be registered, as noted by the black stamps on the back of your visa or passport. Make sure your passport looks decent and doesn't differ from the most common passports from your country.

Groups such as Choson Exchange bring volunteers (or tourists) to participate in teaching workshops on business and entrepreneurship to businesswomen, young entrepreneurs and researchers, after which volunteers tour relevant sites in North Korea. Such volunteers travel on an official visa, rather than a tourist visa.

• Choson Exchange - Singapore, UK & USA. A social enterprise providing training in business and entrepreneurship in North Korea to businesswomen, young entrepreneurs and researchers, and bring volunteer/tourists to help them to do so.

The Korean Demilitarized Zone [ edit ]

The Panmunjom Joint Security Area is the only place in North Korea that can be visited from the South by regular tourists. This is the jointly-controlled truce village in the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) dividing the two Koreas. In the JSA, you can briefly cross over into North Korea within the confines of one of the conference rooms straddling the border, but the northern door will be guarded by two soldiers, and you will not be able to proceed any further.

Group bus tours to Kaesong and Kumgangsan in North Korea from the South have been suspended indefinitely after a South Korean tourist was shot dead by a North Korean guard in 2008. It is unclear when services will resume.

By plane [ edit ]

All international flights go through Pyongyang's Sunan International Airport ( FNJ  IATA ). No other North Korean airport handles international flights. As of 2024, the only airline operating flights to Sunan is Air Koryo, although Air China may resume flights soon.

Air Koryo [ edit ]

Prior to COVID, North Korea's sole airline, Air Koryo [dead link] , had scheduled flights to Beijing, Shenyang and Vladivostok . As of 2024, there appear to be no scheduled services at all, only irregular charters, but this is likely to change as the country continues to glacially reopen.

Air Koryo was the only 1-star (worst) airline on Skytrax's list, a distinction it held for many years. It has been banned in the EU due to concerns over safety. Although Air Koryo last experienced a fatal accident back in 1983, the airline only operates a handful of flights with its fleet of 10 aircraft. The main reason for flying Air Koryo is the experience: otherwise, it's probably better to fly Air China. The Air Koryo fleet consists entirely of Soviet or Russian-made aircraft, with the pride of their fleet being two Tupolev Tu-204s, which now usually handle the core Beijing–Pyongyang route as well as the Pyongyang-Shenyang route. Otherwise, you'll most likely end up on one of their Ilyushin IL-62-Ms (1979-1988 vintage), Tupolev Tu-154s or Tupolev Tu-134s.

Air China [ edit ]

Air China , a member of the Star Alliance, announced the resumption of thrice-weekly flights to Pyongyang in 2023, but as of February 2024 does not appear to be actually flying them yet. When available, Air China is preferred by most to Air Koryo due to its far more modern fleet of Boeing 737s.

By train [ edit ]

Train K27/K28 connects Pyongyang to Beijing in China via Tianjin , Tangshan , Beidaihe, Shanhaiguan , Jinzhou , Shenyang, Benxi , Fenghuangcheng, Dandong and Sinuiju four times a week. There is only one class on the international train between Beijing and Pyongyang: soft sleeper. It can be booked at the station in Beijing, but reservations must be made several days in advance. Your tour agency will usually do this for you, unless you are travelling on work purposes. It has been increasingly difficult to book space on the Beijing–Pyongyang route, so confirm your tickets well in advance.

Once a week train K27/K28 also conveys direct sleeping cars from Moscow via China to Pyongyang and vice versa. The route is Moscow - Novosibirsk - Irkutsk - Chita - Harbin - Shenyang - Dandong - Shinuiju - Pyongyang . Departure from Moscow is every Friday evening, arrival at Pyongyang is one week later on Friday evening. Departure from Pyongyang is Saturday morning, arrival in Moscow is Friday afternoon.

Some agents (e.g. Lupine Travel) prefer to cross the border from Dandong in China to Sinuiju by minibus and then board a domestic North Korean train to Pyongyang. Usually you will be seated in a hard seat carriage with KPA soldiers and party workers travelling with their families. There is access to a restaurant car which stocks imported beers (Heineken) and soft drinks as well as some local beers and spirits. This train supposedly takes only 4 hours to Pyongyang but has been known to take 14. If travelling in winter be prepared for temperatures inside the carriages as low as -10°C.

There is also a direct rail link from Russia into North Korea. This route is the Rossiya Trans-Siberian train between Moscow and Vladivostok, with the Korea coaches detached at Ussuriysk. From there it's six hours to the border at Tumangan, with a five hour wait, then a 24-hour haul to Pyongyang. It runs weekly, but as a through-train only twice monthly (11th and 25th from Moscow), arriving Pyongyang 9 days later. This route used to be closed to Westerners, but as of 2018 it's available, providing you've got the correct visa and other paperwork.

By boat [ edit ]

There was an unscheduled cargo-passenger ship between Wonsan and Niigata , Japan. Only available for use by some Japanese and North Korean nationals, the boat service has been suspended indefinitely due to North Korea's reported nuclear testing; Japan has banned all North Korean ships from entering Japanese ports, and has banned North Koreans from entering the country. Be careful about getting too close to the North Korean border in a boat; many South Korean fishermen are still waiting to leave North Korea.

Besides the unscheduled ferry, there is also a cruise ship that operates between the coast of Northeastern China, and Mt Kumgang. Jointly operated by China and North Korea, the cruise line uses a ship from around 1970. The cruise trip is 22 hours long at each leg, and is 44 hours long in total but non-Chinese citizens are not permitted on the cruise to Mount Kumgang.

By bus [ edit ]

A bus is available from Dandong, China, across the Yalu River to Sinuiju . It's run by the "Dandong China Travel Company" but is only open to Chinese citizens. The bus drives from Dandong over the Sino-Korea Friendship Bridge (the same bridge over the Yalu river that the trains take).

Get around [ edit ]

All your transport needs will be dealt with by your tour company. Most of the time this means buses, although tour groups visiting remote sites (e.g. Paekdusan , Mount Chilbo) occasionally use chartered flights by Air Koryo. Wandering around on your own is not allowed, and you are required to have a guide to escort you at all times.

A carefully stage-managed one-station ride on the Pyongyang metro is included on the itinerary of most trips to Pyongyang, but use of any other form of local public transport is generally impossible. Some tours also include a train ride from Pyongyang to the border city of Sinuiju, in which you can stop over in Sinuiju for a 1-day tour, though this option is not available to U.S. citizens.

If travelling in a small enough group it is also possible to organise a walk through some areas of Pyongyang with some travel agents (Koryo).

Talk [ edit ]

The official language is Korean . North Koreans are quite picky about referring to Korean as chosŏn-mal (조선말), not hangugeo (both mean "Korean language", but the names of Korea refer to different historic periods). The language is rather drastically different from any Western language in its grammar, and while the language isn't tonal, its pronunciation is rather difficult for the English speaker to get right. It has various dialects; standard North Korean (문화어 munhwaŏ ) is ostensibly based on the Pyong'an dialect spoken in Pyongyang, but in reality is still deeply rooted in the Seoul dialect which was the standard before Korea was split.

The Korean writing system is deceptively simple. Although it looks at first glance to be as complex as Chinese or Japanese, it is a unique and simple alphabetic writing system called chosŏn'gŭl by North Koreans, and hangul (한글 hangeul ) by the rest of the world, where letters are stacked up into blocks that represent syllables. It was designed by a committee and looks like simple lines, boxes and little circles, but it is remarkably consistent, logical and quick to pick up. A document from 1446 describing hangul said that "A wise man can acquaint himself with them before the morning is over; a stupid man can learn them in the space of ten days."

Essentially all sources for learning Korean abroad will teach South Korean, which does have slightly different usage: some letters have different names, the sorting order is different, and there are some minor differences in pronunciation and spelling.

North Korea completely abolished Chinese hanja characters in the late 1940s and uses the chosŏn'gŭl alphabet exclusively.

North Korea uses its own unique system for romanization of Korean, which is mostly similar to the older McCune–Reischauer system. In South Korea and the rest of the world, Revised Romanization is more common.

Most guides will speak fairly decent English (some better than others) and will translate for you. Some guides can also speak Mandarin, German, Russian, Japanese and Spanish.

There is no law preventing citizens of the DPRK from interacting with tourists, although locals are often discouraged from speaking with foreigners and language can prove to be an additional barrier. A visit to the DPRK around their holidays may give you more of a chance to interact with the locals.

North Korea has its own sign language, which is not mutually intelligible with Korean Sign Language as used in South Korea; it's unclear if it's related to any other sign languages, or how widespread it is.

See [ edit ]

All tours are accompanied by a government minder, who will decide what you can and cannot see. From the moment you leave your hotel, expect to be accompanied by one or more minders. Besides ensuring that tourists do not stray outside of the designated tourist areas, their jobs include inspecting any photographs which they think do not portray North Korea or its government in a good light, and ordering photographers to delete them. It is generally advisable to listen to what your minder is saying, and agree with it.

It is always recommended that if you are uncertain about taking pictures anywhere, ask your guide, though allowances seem to vary wildly. You may get a guide that is relatively relaxed and will allow you to take pictures from a bus or within a city. On the other hand, you may get one that will strictly adhere to controlling where you take pictures restricting anything taken from a tour bus or of certain areas, like Pyongyang's city streets, in general. There is simply no way to tell until you are actually on a tour. If you think a particular photograph might be embarrassing to the DPRK in general, ask or simply don't risk taking it at all.

Photography of military personnel is also generally prohibited. Again, if in doubt, ask your guide. However, there are instances where it is impossible not to photograph certain sites without including a few military personnel within the picture such as at Mansudae (the monument site for the statues of Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il) or at a local funfair. Reactions seem to vary between being ignored to curiosity, although you will be told where taking pictures is strictly prohibited (such as at certain areas of the DMZ), and the guards/soldiers there will react unfavourably to being photographed in general. Other areas where photographs are prohibited include the interior of the Friendship Exhibition, which displays gifts from around the world to Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il, and within the Kumsusan Memorial Palace. If you leave the country via train (to Beijing ) your camera will likely be checked for unfavorable photos by the guards.

The majority of sightseeing consists of visits to various war memorials, monuments to the Great Leader and the Workers Party of Korea, and numerous museums (mostly war-related, like the statues and monuments). The Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) is a popular destination for most tour groups in North Korea.

Whilst you are in North Korea, the prevailing viewpoint places blame on the Americans for starting the Korean War; disagreeing with this position is likely to cause problems for both you and your guide, particularly as the two Koreas are still legally at war with only a cease-fire between them. Despite its misleading name, the DMZ is heavily guarded and dotted with minefields and other booby-traps. Under no circumstances should you stray from your group, or take any photographs of military installations. However, the "peace village" Panmunjom may be photographed, and boasts the world's third tallest flagpole.

Whilst on these guided tours, especially to the state museums and monuments, you will undoubtedly endure an ongoing barrage of propaganda, consisting largely of anecdotes about things that Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il did for their country. Some of these claims may seem bizarre and even amusing to the outsider; however, a straight face is generally advisable. It is generally safest to at least appear to take everything they say seriously, even if it contradicts everything you were ever taught in history class or defies even the most basic human reasoning.

Sights [ edit ]

So, with all this practical information being said, what are the places to go? A good part of the important attractions you'll be shown are in Pyongyang . There's the large Kim Il-sung Square , where the famously grand military parades take place. Even without the parades, though, it's an impressive square, and on it is the Grand People’s Study House . This gigantic library and learning centre is home to over 30 million books and a modern system of conveyor belts to get you the one you need. Also on the square are two museums, of which — the Korean National Art Gallery — is the more interesting one. The other great landmark of the nation's capital is its Triumphal Arch . Slightly bigger than its Parisian counterpart, it is in fact the largest arch of its kind in the world. Another landmark you'll be proudly shown are the large bronze statues of the Great Leader and Kim Jong-il . Respectfully join the locals in their serious undertakings to honour the statues, which are a key element of the devotion cult around the national leaders. For a better chance of some casual conversations with locals, try the pleasant Pyongyang zoo . Take a daytrip to the birthplace of the Great Leader in Mangyongdae and of course, visit the Kumsusan Palace of the Sun where both the previous Kims' embalmed bodies are on display.

No trip to North Korea is complete without an extensive glance at the uneasy and heavily fortified border stand-off at Panmunjeom , or the Joint Security Area. Not far from here is the town of Kaesong , with a lovely old town and the UNESCO -listed tomb of King Kongmin . For stunning natural sights, try reaching Kumgangsan , or the Diamond Mountains , where you'll find beautiful vistas, waterfalls, lakes and ancient Buddhist temples .

Do [ edit ]

As mentioned above, there is very little to do beyond the watchful eye of your designated minders, with most recreational activity taking place within the confines of the tourist resorts. Bowling and karaoke are among the latest additions to its surprising plethora of recreational activities. The karaoke videos are often accompanied by dramatic historical footage of the Korean War, or goose-stepping People's Army soldiers.

North Korea has three amusement parks, two of which are abandoned due to mutual lack of interest and electricity. The Kaeson Youth Fair has now closed, taking the infamous "Roller Coaster of Death" along with it. Still visible are the shooting-galleries with backdrops of snarling American and Japanese soldiers; however, it is unlikely that your guide will let you venture into any abandoned areas. The one remaining amusement park contains some rides which are actually quite modern and non-lethal, at least by North Korean standards, and is about as worthy of a visit as everything else you'll see whilst in North Korea.

The nightlife in Pyongyang is remarkably safe and non-violent, compared to the capitals of other nations (except maybe Reykjavík in Iceland ); in general, the civilians are not a threat. The plain-clothes secret police, however, may or may not be a threat, depending on what you say or do. The North Korean definition of popular music is at least two decades behind the rest of the world; expect an onslaught of 1980s hits from the West (some obviously are unauthorized copies, to judge by the quality), punctuated by the eerie caterwauling of Korean folk songs, and at least try to look enthusiastic about the whole scene.

Finally, power cuts may hit without warning in the middle of any activity. Whilst you might welcome this if the jukebox is starting to get to you, this is not a desirable outcome if you are in the middle of an amusement-park ride, particularly as these blackouts can last for hours at a time.

The Masikryong ski resort, North Korea's only ski resort, opened in winter 2013. Located near the western city of Wonsan, a visit to the resort may be included as part of a wider DPRK tour.

Buy [ edit ]

Money [ edit ].

The currency is the North Korean won , denoted by the symbol ₩ (ISO code: KPW ) and not typically available to foreigners, except some old North Korean won sold as souvenirs. The only places where tourists are allowed to obtain and spend North Korean won are at the Kwangbok Supermarket, which is included in some tours of Pyongyang , and in the Rason Special Economic Zone. Black market exchange rates (especially in far northern Korea, near the Chinese border) may easily be 20 times the official rate, but importing or exporting Korean won is strictly forbidden. North Korean won is practically worthless outside the country but can make unique souvenirs.

Foreigners are expected to use euros or as an alternative Chinese renminbi, US dollars or Japanese yen. Currency handling is often bizarre, with a frequent lack of change and a number of rule-of-thumb conversions leading to highly unorthodox transactions, so be sure to bring lots of small change. On a typical tour most expenses such as hotel, transportation, and meals will have been paid in advance, and therefore your only expenses may be bottled water, souvenirs, snacks, drinks at the bars, laundry at the hotel and tips for your guides.

In any case, the only shops you will be likely allowed to visit are the state-run souvenir shops at your hotel and at the various tourist attractions. It is generally not possible to visit a real local shop which serves the local population, though you might get lucky asking your guide if he/she trusts you enough. Some tours include a visit to a department store.

Souvenirs [ edit ]

There are numerous hard-currency-only souvenir shops at tourist sites. Interesting souvenirs include propaganda books and videos, postcards and postage stamps. At some tourist sites (such as King Kongmin's tomb), you can purchase freshly finished paintings with your name and the artist's name at the bottom.

You can buy postcards and send them to people in any country except South Korea. Stamps would make wonderful souvenirs.

Literature is revered in North Korean society, in due large part to the fact that the government regularly promotes views that present them in a good light, i.e. propaganda. Writers in North Korea are held in high prestige. Sure, North Korean books may be full of views and perspectives promoting the government, but they will allow you to be further exposed to the world's most secretive, isolated country and better understand the thoughts and views of the government, the Workers' Party of Korea, Kim Il-Sung, Kim Jong-il, and Kim Jong-un. A book from North Korea would make a good souvenir from the country.

Some excellent paintings on silk or linen have been available in Kaesong directly from the artist. Haggling for better prices is not permitted but the prices are very low.

Note: South Korean law criminalizes the possession and importation of North Korean "propaganda". It is advised to avoid bringing your North Korean souvenirs with you if you go to South Korea.

Costs [ edit ]

Most costs are included as part of your tour. Most sights have a shop associated with them where you can buy bottled water, souvenirs and snacks. These are reasonably priced. In September 2017, large bottles of local beer cost US$2 at the hotel bars in Pyongyang. €200 for one week should be enough to cover your costs of water, drinks at the bars, souvenirs and tips for the guides.

Eat [ edit ]

As with most other aspects of visiting North Korea, catering is usually organized in advance as part of your tour. Vegetarians and people with food allergies or dislikes of common foods such as seafood or eggs will need to make arrangements in advance. A visit to a "real" local restaurant may be possible; inquire with your guide. Shortages of supplies, combined with the typical use of Korean cooking styles, mean that there is a relatively limited variety of food — and this can get wearying on tours of more than a few days.

There are a few Western food options now in Pyongyang and these restaurants can usually be visited if arranged with the guides in advance. They will usually require additional payment though, unless you have discussed this already with your tour operator, as the costs are not included in the per diem fee charged by the Korean Travel Company. There are two Italian restaurants (one on Kwangbok Street which is near the Korean circus where the pizza is great, and they have imported a pizza oven and all the ingredients so the quality is very high; and one near the USS Pueblo ) and two burger restaurants (the more accessible is in the Youth Hotel). Both are inexpensive and do inject some flavor onto a generally lackluster eating scene, especially on long tours. Visit the Vienna coffee house, which is on the river side of Kim Jong Il square, for a good coffee similar to those common in Europe.

Drink [ edit ]

The local speciality is insam-ju , Korean vodka infused with ginseng roots.

Locally made Taedonggang beer is very good. The brewery was purchased from Ushers in the UK and physically moved to Pyongyang, and some of the soju are not bad either. Local alcohol is inexpensive; a 650 ml bottle of beer is €0.50. Imported beers, such as Heineken, are also available at similar prices. However do not get drunk and cause trouble. Toe the line and show respect, or you and your guide will face serious penalties.

It is advisable to stick to bottled water for drinking as the tap water is not always properly treated.

Sleep [ edit ]

This is likely to be your principal expense while in North Korea. You may only stay at "designated tourist hotels", for which you will need to pay in hard currency. There may be discounts if you ask for lower class accommodation, if you are travelling as part of a group, or if it is low season (November – March). Costs for your tour, which will include accommodation, all sightseeing activities and meals, will range from US$70 to US$200 a day, depending on these factors.

Usually you pay for all your meals, hotel and Beijing–Pyongyang journey to your tour operator before you leave. One week in high season at a four-star hotel will then cost something between €1,300 and €1,600, depending on your tour operator, but might get as low as €800 for one week.

Learn [ edit ]

It's difficult to ascertain the full scope of the North Korean education system, since very few foreigners, if any, take advantage of learning opportunities in the country. The vast majority of foreign students in North Korea are normally exchange students and typically come here to study the Korean language.

The Kim Il-Sung University is North Korea's most prestigious university and has exchange programmes with several universities in China , Russia , and Germany . The university has educated 5,000 students from nearly 30 countries since 1955.

The North Korean government has set up a website where you can freely download books published in North Korea. This will allow you to learn something new about North Korea.

Yanbian University , in the Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture in northeastern China is closely affiliated with other universities in North Korea and can offer relevant courses for learning about North Korea.

Work [ edit ]

If you are interested in teaching in North Korea, you may find success by contacting the North Korean UN Mission in New York, or contacting a North Korean university directly. Your odds of success are, however, quite low: there is only a small team of 4 English Language Instructors dealing with teaching and teacher training, with a Project Manager leading the team of three, placed in Kim Il Sung University, Pyongyang University of Foreign Studies and Kim Hyung Jik University of Education.

There is an opportunity to teach in the Pyongyang Summer Institute during summer time when it is opened to foreigners. It's voluntary, unpaid work, though.

Stay safe [ edit ]

At first, you may feel scared and intimidated by being in an authoritarian country like North Korea. You may even feel uneasy or outright anxious. As a tourist, you're not expected to know every single law and rule in North Korea. So long as you listen to your tour guide(s) and respect local customs, you have nothing to worry about.

North Korea is an authoritarian dictatorship and is generally considered to have the worst human rights record in the world . The authorities are very touchy, and you need to watch what you say and how you say it. Just do what the guides do, praise every stop on your tour, and remember the rule, "If you have nothing good to say, don't say anything at all."

The official policy is that you are not to wander around on your own . You are expected to get permission and/or have a guide accompany you if you leave your hotel alone. This will vary depending on what hotel you are in. The Yanggakdo Hotel is on an island in the middle of the Pyongyang's Taedong River. Therefore you can walk around the area a little more freely than at the Koryo Hotel in the centre of town. You should always be friendly and courteous to your guides and driver, who will usually reciprocate by trusting you more and giving you more freedom.

Photography [ edit ]

When taking photographs , exercise restraint, caution and common sense. If you appear to be looking for negative images of North Korea, the guides will not be happy and will tell you to delete any questionable images. In particular, you should not take photos of anything depicting the military, including personnel, or anything showing the DPRK in a bad light.

Your photographic freedom can largely depend on the type of guides you are assigned and your rapport with them. In a best-case scenario, you can often take pictures without feeling as if you're trying to sneak them by anyone and without pressure capturing some truly unique images. If you are in an area prohibiting picture taking, you will also be informed of this, and it is best to follow your guide's direction. When in doubt, always ask. Your guide might even want to try out your camera and take a picture of you for your collection.

In a worst-case scenario, you can be expected to raise your camera at a reasonable speed, compose and take the picture, and lower the camera at a reasonable speed. Don't try to take pictures of anything that you have been told not to, such as military personnel or certain locales. This may call attention to yourself and the image you are trying to take and can result, whether justified or not, in your being told to delete the image.

Digital cameras are commonly inspected when leaving the country by train. A simple workaround is to leave a memory card with innocuous snaps in the camera and file away any cards with ideologically dubious content.

Korean nationals [ edit ]

If you are Korean or have ties to Korea – such as having a Korean parent, being married to a Korean, or being of Korean descent – you should carefully consider your decision to visit North Korea. You could easily arouse suspicion from the authorities.

Politics [ edit ]

Visitors have also been targeted for political reasons; in 2013, an 85-year-old American citizen was arrested, briefly incarcerated and expelled by the DPRK because of his military service during the Korean War.

Illegal substances [ edit ]

Drug trafficking and the consumption of narcotics can be punishable by death in North Korea. Although Marijuana is said to be found growing freely alongside the road in North Korea, its possession and consumption is illegal; in 2017, the Swedish Ambassador to North Korea stated that marijuana was illegal, and anyone caught using the drug could "expect no leniency whatsoever".

Religious activity [ edit ]

It is strongly recommended that you avoid bringing religious texts or performing any religious activity . In 2012, Kenneth Bae, an American Christian missionary, was arrested for his religious activities in North Korea and was sentenced to 15 years of hard labour (however, he was released nine months later). Another American, Jeffrey Fowle, was arrested for leaving a Bible at a North Korean nightclub and spent six months in a North Korean jail.

Emergency numbers [ edit ]

• From a fixed-line phone: 119
• From a mobile phone: 112

For medical emergencies in Pyongyang, dial 02 382-7688 locally.

Stay healthy [ edit ]

Drinking water in North Korea is apparently untreated and there are reports of foreigners being hospitalized in the DPRK after drinking the water; therefore, sticking to bottled water is highly recommended.

Medical facilities are clean although very outdated. If you fall ill then you might be better off going to China for medical treatment. Contact your embassy or consulate in North Korea (if your country has one) for assistance.

Respect [ edit ]

North and South Koreans share a common culture; you may find the various respect tips in the South Korea article to be of help.

Tour conduct [ edit ]

Your tour guide in North Korea is your best friend. They will do their best to explain the rules and what is expected from you. If a guide tells you not to do something, listen to them . If you're not sure about something, ask. That said, you should refrain from discussing sensitive subjects such as politics, economic systems, and human rights.

Any time you engage in unbecoming conduct, your guide will be blamed for being unable to control you, and they will be penalised for your misbehaviour. Always think before you act, and think before you speak; future tourists could face restrictions on what they can do in the country because of your behaviour.

Consider giving small gifts like cigarettes, skin creams, and so on to your guides. This will garner respect from the guides and depending on how well you conduct yourself, they may even take you to places and events in North Korea they wouldn't usually go to.

Although there are many terrific photo opportunities in North Korea, the DPRK has stringent photography laws. This largely depends on what guide you've been assigned. Do not take photographs of anything of strategic importance (i.e. places with soldiers/police officers, etc.), photographs that negatively portray the country, and things you've been told not to photograph. The North Korean authorities take these rules very seriously.

Sensitive issues [ edit ]

The government of the DPRK — in particular the leaders Kim Il-sung, Kim Jong-il and Kim Jong-un — are, at least publicly, very highly revered in North Korean culture. While slavish devotion is not expected from tourists, any form of disrespect — such as criticisms or insults — towards the Kim dynasty, the Workers' Party of Korea, the North Korean government, Songun, and Juche is taken very seriously and severely punished. Keep your personal views about them to yourself.

Do not crumple, desecrate, inappropriately use, tamper with, or mishandle anything — this applies to newspapers, books, stamps, postcards, political posters, and money — bearing the names and images of the North Korean government, Kim Il-Sung, Kim Jong-Il, and Kim Jong-un. This is tantamount to treason, for which you can be severely punished.

It is advisable to refer to North Korea as the Democratic People's Republic of Korea (DPRK), the official name for the country. When speaking Korean, South Korea should be referred to as "South Chosun" (남조선/南朝鮮) instead of "Hanguk" (한국/韓國).

For self-explanatory reasons, avoid praising South Korea , as doing so would attract unwanted attention from the North Korean authorities, and may invite more trouble than what's it worth. That said, do not criticize South Korea either, as they are still regarded as "brother Koreans", and you are a foreigner. For similar reasons, avoid praising the United States and Japan − both countries are considered adversaries of North Korea.

Most, if not all, tour groups to the DPRK are asked to solemnly bow and lay flowers on one or two occasions in front of statues of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il when visiting monuments of national importance. If you are not prepared to do this, you should not visit North Korea. When photographing statues, especially Mansudae, you are required to get the entire statue in the picture. Formal dress is also expected at important monuments such as Mansudae or visiting the Kumsusang Memorial Palace.

Religion [ edit ]

North Korea is officially atheist. The regime promotes a national philosophy of self-reliance called Juche (주체) which some would categorize as a quasi-religion that pervades all aspects of life in the country. As a tourist, you will not be expected to observe this, although you must always be respectful towards symbols of Juche which are often the images of past and present leaders Kim Il-sung, Kim Jong-il and Kim Jong-un.

Other religions such as Christianity and Buddhism are vigorously suppressed in practice with severe punishment being given to followers. You should refrain from any religious discussions during your time in North Korea, and be aware that any form of religious proselytizing is dealt with very seriously by the regime, with foreign missionaries having previously been sentenced to life imprisonment in labor camps. With this in mind, be careful of performing even personal religious rituals or bringing religious items into the country and preferably do not do so at all.

Connect [ edit ]

By phone [ edit ].

For international calls to North Korea, the country code is +850 . Some phone numbers (mostly faxes) can be called directly from abroad; most other calls will need to go through the international operator service on +850-2-18111.

International calling is generally possible via landlines in hotels, though it is expensive (€2 per minute as of Feb 2012) and all calls are likely recorded and monitored.

Local calls need elusive 10 chon coins when calling from call boxes, but can also be made from hotels and post offices.

Additionally, your phone calls may be heavily monitored, so you should be careful of what you talk about in phone calls that you make in North Korea.

Mobile phones [ edit ]

As of January 2013, you are allowed to carry a mobile phone from outside the country into North Korea. You will not be able to use your current SIM card in North Korea, however. The only network you are allowed to connect to is the local network, Koryolink, via one of their SIM cards. Your phone must be a 3G WCDMA phone which can connect to the 2100MHz 3G frequency band.

A 3G mobile phone network (Koryolink) was introduced in Pyongyang in 2008 and now covers the 42 largest cities. It is widely used by locals who can afford it and by long-staying foreigners who file an application. SIM cards and phones can be purchased at the International Communication Center, No.2 Pothonggang-dong in Pothonggang District, opposite the Pyongyang Indoor Stadium, as well as at Pyongyang airport and some hotels. As of 25 Feb 2013, 3G mobile internet via Koryolink is available to foreigners, although pricing is unknown. Bear in mind that these SIM cards will only let you call internationally and to a very small number of internationally-enabled phones in North Korea. There are three plans you can choose from for your SIM card:

• Purchase a prepaid SIM card for €50. This gives you the SIM card to keep indefinitely for return visits, and includes a small amount (less than €30) of calling credit.
• Rent a prepaid SIM card for two weeks for €50. This includes €30 of calling credit.
• Rent a prepaid SIM card for one month for €75. This includes €55 of calling credit.

Calling rates are as follows:

• China and South-East Asia: €1.43 per minute.
• Russia: €0.68 per minute.
• France and Switzerland: €0.38 per minute.
• U.K. and Germany: €1.58 per minute.

By Internet [ edit ]

Internet facilities are limited to a very few North Koreans with appropriate privileges to use it. For foreigners, most of the larger hotels have Internet access available, but this needs to be applied for some days in advance. Advise your tour operator or inviting party of your requirements well ahead of time so that access permission can be arranged. There are no public internet cafés or business centres with web access in the hotels. Mobile internet is available via Koryolink's 3G network (see above) using a local SIM card, but details about this are scarce. Also, even if you have Internet access, your traffic will probably be monitored. There is very little Internet connectivity in North Korea; the little that exists is routed through mainland China and risks heavy censorship by that country's Golden Shield Project, the " Great Firewall of China ".

Cope [ edit ]

There is a growing diplomatic presence of foreign embassies in Pyongyang . Find out beforehand which country can assist you in case of an emergency, such as a medical condition or a police incident.

Sweden serves as the protecting power for American, Australian, and Canadian travellers in North Korea, so these visitors may be able to obtain limited consular services from the Swedish embassy in Pyongyang. American nationals are not allowed by the U.S. Department of State to visit North Korea, although if you must then it is still recommended to notify (by email) the Swedish embassy of your visit to North Korea, as well as to inform the U.S. embassy in Beijing, China, particularly if your trip to North Korea entails passing through China.

The British embassy offers consular services to Commonwealth citizens who do not have representation through other countries, except for Singaporeans and Tanzanians, whose governments have opted out of this arrangement.

Media [ edit ]

Foreign media outlets and newspapers are banned by the North Korean government; you may only access media outlets and newspapers owned and operated by the North Korean government.

You can expect to come across fringe and controversial views of the United States , Japan , South Korea , Israel , and Western culture in North Korean media. For example, one article published in the Pyongyang Times claimed that the United States is the world's "worst democracy strangler". Putting this aside, exposing yourself to North Korean media is an excellent way to understand how things are in the world's most secretive country, the views of the North Korean government, and what people are exposed to over here.

• Korean Central News Agency . The state news agency of North Korea. Available in Korean, Russian, English, Mandarin, Japanese, and Spanish.  

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Visit North Korea: what to expect, how much it costs, and what you need to know

Aaah, North Korea. Plenty of mystery surrounds this hermetically closed-off country (also referred to as DPRK), which occasionally pops up in the international media. My curiosity got the best of me and I decided to visit North Korea on a budget tour since I was already in the area at the time. I’ll save my opinions and travel stories for another article and focus on the practical side of things in this one. How can you  visit North Korea?

First off I have to tell you that I don’t work for the tour agency mentioned in this article, nor have they approached me to write this article. I’m simply recommending them to you because it was the cheapest one I could find on the internet and, after taking the tour with them, I had an honestly positive experience.

Enjoying a North Korean beer in a local microbrewery is one of the extraordinary things to do when you visit North Korea.

How much does it cost to visit North Korea?

At the date that I’m writing this article, it is not possible to travel to North Korea as a solo traveler so you will have to find an agency to organize your DPRK tour. They will arrange a visa for you and create your itinerary (some agencies don’t charge any extra fee for arranging the visa apart from the actual cost, which is around €50). After looking at the options I got through recommendations and research I found a few agencies.

The agency I chose, Young Pioneer Tours , offered a 2-day visit of North Korea’s capital (Pyongyang) for €395 ( update April 2018, this is now €445 ), including train ride to and from Dandong (a border town in China) but excluding the visa costs and Mass Games ticket (around €80 for good enough seats; more about this later on in this article). This was the cheapest option I could find and I was lucky enough that the date I booked was also a North Korean National Holiday: the 65th anniversary of the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea. Another reason I booked with these guys is that they boasted to have “group tours for people who hate group tours” and well, I do.

North Korean kids playing hide and seek

Checklist for your North Korea visit

After sending them an email I got a quick response and we sorted out the details pretty quickly. There were a couple of pointers:

• You weren’t allowed in the country if you have a job in a media or press related company.
• You can’t take professional video cameras with you. Professional photo cameras are ok with lenses under 250mm. Also, no digital cameras with a “GPS” feature are allowed. They won’t destroy your camera but simply “seal it” until you’ve left the country.
• There are spots where it’s not allowed to take pictures or film, like of people working.
• You can take your (non-satellite) phone to North Korea and you will even be able to buy a sim card to call someone. Don’t think it’s cheap though.
• You can only pay with EURO, US dollar or Chinese Yuan, not with the local currency (this is in fact illegal)
• All books are ok to take unless they’re critical of the North Korean regime
• You’ll have to respect the local rules and pay your respects where asked. If you have a problem with that, tell your guide beforehand so you won’t embarrass everybody at the moment suprême .
• If you’re nice to your North Korean guides they will let you do/see more.
• You will need at least one extra “entry” on your Chinese visa to be able to cross the border from North Korea to China. This is an important one, I screwed up here big time and had to fly back to Hong Kong with a 72-hour Chinese transit visa.

The pre-tour deposit is 40% of the total amount and there are two simple documents you would have to fill in to apply for the tour and visa. Additionally, a proper passport picture (with white background) and a copy of your passport’s photo page have to be provided. If you’re working/living in China, a copy of your Chinese visa would be necessary as well.

That’s practically it! Once you can follow these rules your North Korea tour will go smoothly as eggs, even for Americans!

Pyongyang as seen from my hotel room window

My North Korea tour itinerary

You will meet your tour guide and other tour members in Dandong, and there will be time for some food, drinks and a dive into the exhilarating nightlife. Scratch that last part; there are literarily zero fun things to do in Dandong unless you don’t mind fighting off a herd of karaoke-girls and a small man that calls himself a security guard. Yes, that actually happened.

• Train from Dandong to Pyongyang, you will go through customs in the morning. The train is slow and delays aren’t unheard of (but you’ll have more time checking out the scenery and people).
• Driving city tour through Pyongyang with a photo op at Kim Il Sung Square
• Check-in at the hotel and Dinner
• A short trip to the Kaeson Fun Fair
• Breakfast at the hotel
• Visit to the Monument to the Party Foundation
• Walk through Mansudae fountain park and see the mosaic pictures of President Kim Il Sung and the leader Kim Jong Il.
• Visit Mansudae Grand Monument to show our respects to the President Kim Il Sung and the Leader Kim Jong Il.
• Revolutionary Martyr’s Cemetery.
• Juche Tower- Monument to the everlasting Juche Ideology
• Foreign Language Bookshop
• Kim Il Sung Square
• 5 stops on the Pyongyang Metro
• Arch of Triumph- the largest Victory Arch in the world
• 3 revolutions exhibition centre
• Meari Shooting range
• Evening performance of the Arirang Mass Games
• Check-out of the hotel and train (or flight) back to Dandong (or Beijing)

One kid represents one “pixel”

The Ariran Mass Games Ceremony

The Arirang Mass Games (the absolute highlight)

The Mass Games is the spectacle of performing arts and gymnastics which involves synchronized movements of thousands of participants, mostly kids. You might remember it from Faithless’ video clip of “We Want More” (below). The price of a ticket isn’t included in the tour but is 110% recommended to buy. Prices vary per “class”, but a regular 3rd class ticket is around 80 euro and has a good enough view.

The show is truly breathtaking, and the discipline and determination the performers show is out of this world. It feels like you’re watching a live animation, especially with the backdrop of 1000’s of kids holding big books with single colored pages which they turn over when told to. This creates a pixel-like effect and looks pretty unreal when viewed from far away.

I wrote a separate article about my visit to the North Korea Mass Games in 2013 with loads of pictures and videos, so if you’re interested in this subject, be sure to have a look!

Reflecting on my trip to North Korea

I didn’t read any books about North Korea before entering the country and I didn’t really follow the news closely either. As with any other country I visit for the first time, I want to have a clear mind without expectations. After visiting the country I can make up my own opinions and base them on the things I’ve seen and done. This wasn’t any different with North Korea.

After visiting the country I have read the book called “Nothing to Envy”, by Barabara Demick , which tells the stories of people who lived their whole lives in North Koreans but chose to escape. The book certainly provided some perspective to the polished tours, since it also talks about the life in other cities which your not allowed to visit as a tourist, like Chongjin. (edit: I found out that this is a common misunderstanding. It’s actually possible to visit other lesser known cities like Hoeryong, Rason, Chongjin, Kaesong, or one of the mountain areas. Also, you can visit North Korea as often as you want, not just once).

The visit definitely made a mark on my 7-month world trip, and I still haven’t finished processing all the things I’ve seen and heard. As much as I want to express all my feelings and opinions about North Korea in this article, I will contain them for another one.

A military parade to honor Kim Il-Sung and Kim Jong-Il

Should I visit North Korea?

Yes. I believe you will have a unique experience, which will score you some points with your kids, grandkids or random girls at a bar. Hell, you could even bring your kids with you! The country is completely safe for travel, as you will not have any (unsupervised) contact with the locals. Furthermore, the locals that you  will meet will be friendly and welcoming.

There are loads of souvenirs you can buy such as pins, postcards, and books. Personally, I think that a short DPRK tour has the best value. Since you will not be able to wander around freely you will be “stuck” with your tour group for all the days of your tour. This wouldn’t be a problem in my case – I had the best tour group I could wish for and I’m still in touch with some of them – but you never know who will be in yours.

It’s a crazy world out there, which you simply have to see for yourself before the borders open up.

Book now and receive a free goodie bag

As an extra special bonus for you, the much-appreciated reader of my blog, I’ve asked Young Pioneers if they could offer a little gift if you would decide to book a tour with them after reading this article. They happily agreed, and all you have to do to receive a goodie bag (which includes a t-shirt) is mention my blog when you contact them (“Victor’s Travels”, remember?). You can see a list of their tours, prices, and availability on their North Korea tours page . Don’t forget to write me a postcard 😉

A propagandist wall mosaic in the Pyongyang underground metro

Victor Eekhof

Currently in: Amsterdam. Victor’s Travels is a travel blog curated by me, 30-something Dutch world explorer Victor Eekhof. This blog is all about traveling on your own terms and not following the masses . It’s for people who are happiest with a big backpack on their backs and a smaller one on their front; people who walk where others take a cab, or take a bus where others take a plane. I have visited 60+ countries on 7 continents , from Antarctica to North Korea and Venezuela to Russia and started this blog to share my tips and stories with fellow travellers just like you. Read my story »

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Hi, I interest to visit DPRK/North Korea. But I am moslem woman and wearing hijab/scraft. Can I visit DPRK with my situation?

Hi there Maya, Hmmm, that’s a pretty specific question. I think it’s best to ask this to a specialized agency who know’s what the latest developments are in the DPRK. How about getting in touch with Young Pioneer Tours ? Hope that helps. Victor

Most prices quoted in travel articles on the DPRK are absurdly expensive. How about a trip that’s practical? Train from Dandong. Stay in cheapest hotel. See no sights – just walk around with your 2 necessary minders witnessing people in a veritable urban concentration camp. Unmatched in the world probably. Buy food in markets/stores. Make it as short as possible. Just a few hours there would blow people’s minds.

It’s definitely somewhere I would like to visit!!!!

Well why don’t you? 🙂

I’ve been there as well (for 8 days though) and I agree with Victor completely! It is a beautiful country and it is certainly worth to go there yourself!

It’s also quite different than the one-sided view you get because of the media.. Definitely agree, everybody should check it out!

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COVID-19: travel health notice for all travellers

North Korea travel advice

Latest updates: Health – editorial update

Last updated: March 13, 2024 15:06 ET

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Safety and security, entry and exit requirements, laws and culture, natural disasters and climate, north korea - avoid all travel.

There is no resident Canadian government office in the country. The ability of Canadian officials to provide consular assistance in North Korea is extremely limited.

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Safety information

Canadian (and Swedish) authorities may encounter major difficulties and delays in obtaining consular access to you if you are detained, particularly outside of Pyongyang. The provision of consular access is solely at the discretion of the North Korean government. Knowledge of North Korean police and judicial systems is limited, which may further affect our ability to provide assistance to you.

Tourist facilities are minimal and telecommunications are unreliable. Individual tourism can be arranged only through a handful of North Korean government-approved travel agencies. Travel must be authorized in advance by the government. Travellers are closely observed, and their accommodations and telecommunications are monitored.

There are serious shortages of food, electricity and clean water.

You have no right to privacy. Your movements and communications may be under surveillance at any time. Your personal belongings may be searched, and authorities may review the contents stored on your electronic devices.

Register with the Embassy of Canada to South Korea in Seoul and with the Embassy of Sweden in Pyongyang.

Tensions on the Korean Peninsula

Tensions on the Korean Peninsula can escalate with little notice. They may increase before, during and after North Korean nuclear and missile tests, military exercises and incidents such as inter-Korean border skirmishes or other incidents that one or the other side finds offensive. Due to very limited access to international media broadcasts in North Korea, you may be taken by surprise by events that could affect your security.

The crime rate is low. Petty crime occurs, especially at the Pyongyang Sunan International Airport. Ensure that your personal belongings, including your passport and other travel documents, are secure at all times.

Road safety

Travel within North Korea is severely restricted. Transportation is usually provided by local tour representatives or authorities. Major highways are in good condition, while rural roads can be hazardous. Police checkpoints, usually located at the entry to towns, may require that travellers provide documentation before onward travel is permitted.

We do not make assessments on the compliance of foreign domestic airlines with international safety standards.

Information about foreign domestic airlines

Every country or territory decides who can enter or exit through its borders. The Government of Canada cannot intervene on your behalf if you do not meet your destination’s entry or exit requirements.

We have obtained the information on this page from the North Korean authorities. It can, however, change at any time.

Verify this information with the  Foreign Representatives in Canada .

Entry requirements vary depending on the type of passport you use for travel.

Before you travel, check with your transportation company about passport requirements. Its rules on passport validity may be more stringent than the country’s entry rules.

Regular Canadian passport

Your passport must be valid at least 6 months beyond the date you expect to leave North Korea.

Passport for official travel

Different entry rules may apply.

Official travel

Passport with “X” gender identifier

While the Government of Canada issues passports with an “X” gender identifier, it cannot guarantee your entry or transit through other countries. You might face entry restrictions in countries that do not recognize the “X” gender identifier. Before you leave, check with the closest foreign representative for your destination.

Other travel documents

Different entry rules may apply when travelling with a temporary passport or an emergency travel document. Before you leave, check with the closest foreign representative for your destination.

Useful links

• Foreign Representatives in Canada
• Canadian passports

Canadians must have a visa to enter North Korea. You can obtain a visa from a North Korean mission in a third country after approval from the government in Pyongyang. The process for obtaining visas can be extremely slow and arduous.

Canadians arriving without a valid Canadian passport and visa may be detained, arrested, fined or denied entry.

Professional journalists must apply for special permission to visit North Korea and may not enter the country on a tourist visa, even if they are travelling for personal reasons.

Tourist visa: required Business visa: required Student visa: required

Other entry information

Foreigners can enter North Korea either by air or by train. It is not possible to enter North Korea from South Korea or to enter South Korea from North Korea.

Even if you meet all entry requirements, you may be arbitrarily arrested and/or detained at your point of entry.

Dual citizenship

If you are a Korean citizen or have family ties with North Korea, you should carefully consider your decision to visit. Authorities periodically subject dual citizens and children of former Koreans to certain laws and obligations.

Canadians who also have South Korean citizenship must obtain approval from South Korean authorities for travel to North Korea. For more information, contact the Embassy of Canada to the Republic of Korea in Seoul, South Korea.

Unauthorized points of entry

Foreigners have been detained, and in one instance shot, for entering the country at unauthorized points. Ensure that you stay within permitted zones and strictly follow North Korea’s procedures and protocols.

Children and travel

Learn more about travelling with children .

Yellow fever

Learn about potential entry requirements related to yellow fever (vaccines section).

Relevant Travel Health Notices

• Global Measles Notice - 13 March, 2024
• COVID-19 and International Travel - 13 March, 2024

This section contains information on possible health risks and restrictions regularly found or ongoing in the destination. Follow this advice to lower your risk of becoming ill while travelling. Not all risks are listed below.

Consult a health care professional or visit a travel health clinic preferably 6 weeks before you travel to get personalized health advice and recommendations.

Routine vaccines

Be sure that your  routine vaccinations , as per your province or territory , are up-to-date before travelling, regardless of your destination.

Some of these vaccinations include measles-mumps-rubella (MMR), diphtheria, tetanus, pertussis, polio, varicella (chickenpox), influenza and others.

Pre-travel vaccines and medications

You may be at risk for preventable diseases while travelling in this destination. Talk to a travel health professional about which medications or vaccines may be right for you, based on your destination and itinerary. 

Yellow fever   is a disease caused by a flavivirus from the bite of an infected mosquito.

Travellers get vaccinated either because it is required to enter a country or because it is recommended for their protection.

• There is no risk of yellow fever in this country.

Country Entry Requirement*

• Proof of vaccination is required if you are coming from a country   where yellow fever occurs.

Recommendation

• Vaccination is not recommended.
• Discuss travel plans, activities, and destinations with a health care professional.
• Contact a designated  Yellow Fever Vaccination Centre  well in advance of your trip to arrange for vaccination.

About Yellow Fever

Yellow Fever Vaccination Centre

* It is important to note that  country entry requirements  may not reflect your risk of yellow fever at your destination. It is recommended that you contact the nearest  diplomatic or consular office  of the destination(s) you will be visiting to verify any additional entry requirements.

There is a risk of hepatitis A in this destination. It is a disease of the liver. People can get hepatitis A if they ingest contaminated food or water, eat foods prepared by an infectious person, or if they have close physical contact (such as oral-anal sex) with an infectious person, although casual contact among people does not spread the virus.

Practise  safe food and water precautions and wash your hands often. Vaccination is recommended for all travellers to areas where hepatitis A is present.

Measles is a highly contagious viral disease. It can spread quickly from person to person by direct contact and through droplets in the air.

Anyone who is not protected against measles is at risk of being infected with it when travelling internationally.

Regardless of where you are going, talk to a health care professional before travelling to make sure you are fully protected against measles.

Japanese encephalitis is a viral infection that can cause swelling of the brain.  It is spread to humans through the bite of an infected mosquito. Risk is very low for most travellers. Travellers at relatively higher risk may want to consider vaccination for JE prior to travelling.

Travellers are at higher risk if they will be:

• travelling long term (e.g. more than 30 days)
• making multiple trips to endemic areas
• staying for extended periods in rural areas
• visiting an area suffering a JE outbreak
• engaging in activities involving high contact with mosquitos (e.g., entomologists)

  Hepatitis B is a risk in every destination. It is a viral liver disease that is easily transmitted from one person to another through exposure to blood and body fluids containing the hepatitis B virus.  Travellers who may be exposed to blood or other bodily fluids (e.g., through sexual contact, medical treatment, sharing needles, tattooing, acupuncture or occupational exposure) are at higher risk of getting hepatitis B.

Hepatitis B vaccination is recommended for all travellers. Prevent hepatitis B infection by practicing safe sex, only using new and sterile drug equipment, and only getting tattoos and piercings in settings that follow public health regulations and standards.

Coronavirus disease (COVID-19) is an infectious viral disease. It can spread from person to person by direct contact and through droplets in the air.

It is recommended that all eligible travellers complete a COVID-19 vaccine series along with any additional recommended doses in Canada before travelling. Evidence shows that vaccines are very effective at preventing severe illness, hospitalization and death from COVID-19. While vaccination provides better protection against serious illness, you may still be at risk of infection from the virus that causes COVID-19. Anyone who has not completed a vaccine series is at increased risk of being infected with the virus that causes COVID-19 and is at greater risk for severe disease when travelling internationally.

Before travelling, verify your destination’s COVID-19 vaccination entry/exit requirements. Regardless of where you are going, talk to a health care professional before travelling to make sure you are adequately protected against COVID-19.

 The best way to protect yourself from seasonal influenza (flu) is to get vaccinated every year. Get the flu shot at least 2 weeks before travelling.  

 The flu occurs worldwide. 

•  In the Northern Hemisphere, the flu season usually runs from November to   April.
•  In the Southern Hemisphere, the flu season usually runs between April and   October.
•  In the tropics, there is flu activity year round. 

The flu vaccine available in one hemisphere may only offer partial protection against the flu in the other hemisphere.

The flu virus spreads from person to person when they cough or sneeze or by touching objects and surfaces that have been contaminated with the virus. Clean your hands often and wear a mask if you have a fever or respiratory symptoms.

Malaria is a serious and sometimes fatal disease that is caused by parasites spread through the bites of mosquitoes.   Limited malaria transmission may occur in this destination, but risk to travellers is very low.    Antimalarial medication is not recommended for most travellers. Consult a health care professional or visit a travel health clinic before travelling to discuss your options. It is recommended to do this 6 weeks before travel, however, it is still a good idea any time before leaving.    Protect yourself from mosquito bites at all times: 

• Cover your skin and use an approved insect repellent on uncovered skin.
• Exclude mosquitoes from your living area with screening and/or closed, well-sealed doors and windows.
• Use insecticide-treated bed nets if mosquitoes cannot be excluded from your living area.
• Wear permethrin-treated clothing. 

If you develop symptoms similar to malaria when you are travelling or up to a year after you return home, see a health care professional immediately. Tell them where you have been travelling or living. 

In this destination, rabies is commonly carried by dogs and some wildlife, including bats. Rabies is a deadly disease that spreads to humans primarily through bites or scratches from an infected animal. While travelling, take precautions , including keeping your distance from animals (including free-roaming dogs), and closely supervising children.

If you are bitten or scratched by a dog or other animal while travelling, immediately wash the wound with soap and clean water and see a health care professional. In this destination, rabies treatment may be limited or may not be available, therefore you may need to return to Canada for treatment.  

Before travel, discuss rabies vaccination with a health care professional. It may be recommended for travellers who are at high risk of exposure (e.g., occupational risk such as veterinarians and wildlife workers, children, adventure travellers and spelunkers, and others in close contact with animals). 

Safe food and water precautions

Many illnesses can be caused by eating food or drinking beverages contaminated by bacteria, parasites, toxins, or viruses, or by swimming or bathing in contaminated water.

• Learn more about food and water precautions to take to avoid getting sick by visiting our eat and drink safely abroad page. Remember: Boil it, cook it, peel it, or leave it!
• Avoid getting water into your eyes, mouth or nose when swimming or participating in activities in freshwater (streams, canals, lakes), particularly after flooding or heavy rain. Water may look clean but could still be polluted or contaminated.
• Avoid inhaling or swallowing water while bathing, showering, or swimming in pools or hot tubs. 

Travellers' diarrhea is the most common illness affecting travellers. It is spread from eating or drinking contaminated food or water.

Risk of developing travellers' diarrhea increases when travelling in regions with poor standards of hygiene and sanitation. Practise safe food and water precautions.

The most important treatment for travellers' diarrhea is rehydration (drinking lots of fluids). Carry oral rehydration salts when travelling.

Typhoid   is a bacterial infection spread by contaminated food or water. Risk is higher among children, travellers going to rural areas, travellers visiting friends and relatives or those travelling for a long period of time.

Travellers visiting regions with a risk of typhoid, especially those exposed to places with poor sanitation, should speak to a health care professional about vaccination.  

Insect bite prevention

Many diseases are spread by the bites of infected insects such as mosquitoes, ticks, fleas or flies. When travelling to areas where infected insects may be present:

• Use insect repellent (bug spray) on exposed skin
• Cover up with light-coloured, loose clothes made of tightly woven materials such as nylon or polyester
• Minimize exposure to insects
• Use mosquito netting when sleeping outdoors or in buildings that are not fully enclosed

To learn more about how you can reduce your risk of infection and disease caused by bites, both at home and abroad, visit our insect bite prevention page.

Find out what types of insects are present where you’re travelling, when they’re most active, and the symptoms of the diseases they spread.

• In this country, risk of  dengue  is sporadic. It is a viral disease spread to humans by mosquito bites.
• Dengue can cause flu-like symptoms. In some cases, it can lead to severe dengue, which can be fatal.
• The level of risk of dengue changes seasonally, and varies from year to year. The level of risk also varies between regions in a country and can depend on the elevation in the region.
• Mosquitoes carrying dengue typically bite during the daytime, particularly around sunrise and sunset.
• Protect yourself from mosquito bites . There is no vaccine or medication that protects against dengue fever.

Animal precautions

Some infections, such as rabies and influenza, can be shared between humans and animals. Certain types of activities may increase your chance of contact with animals, such as travelling in rural or forested areas, camping, hiking, and visiting wet markets (places where live animals are slaughtered and sold) or caves.

Travellers are cautioned to avoid contact with animals, including dogs, livestock (pigs, cows), monkeys, snakes, rodents, birds, and bats, and to avoid eating undercooked wild game.

Closely supervise children, as they are more likely to come in contact with animals.

Person-to-person infections

Stay home if you’re sick and practise proper cough and sneeze etiquette , which includes coughing or sneezing into a tissue or the bend of your arm, not your hand. Reduce your risk of colds, the flu and other illnesses by:

•   washing your hands often
• avoiding or limiting the amount of time spent in closed spaces, crowded places, or at large-scale events (concerts, sporting events, rallies)
• avoiding close physical contact with people who may be showing symptoms of illness 

Sexually transmitted infections (STIs) , HIV , and mpox are spread through blood and bodily fluids; use condoms, practise safe sex, and limit your number of sexual partners. Check with your local public health authority pre-travel to determine your eligibility for mpox vaccine.  

Tuberculosis is an infection caused by bacteria and usually affects the lungs.

For most travellers the risk of tuberculosis is low.

Travellers who may be at high risk while travelling in regions with risk of tuberculosis should discuss pre- and post-travel options with a health care professional.

High-risk travellers include those visiting or working in prisons, refugee camps, homeless shelters, or hospitals, or travellers visiting friends and relatives.

Medical services and facilities

The level of medical services and facilities is poor. Hospitals often lack heat and medicine, and suffer from frequent power outages. Immediate payment in cash is expected for treatment. Pyongyang Friendship Hospital, in the Munsu-dong district of Pyongyang, is staffed by English-speaking professionals. If possible, avoid undergoing surgery. Medical evacuations are very difficult to arrange and are not guaranteed. You should take this into account prior to travel if you have an unstable medical condition. If you show symptoms of a serious communicable disease, you may be subject to strict quarantine conditions.

Make sure you get travel insurance that includes coverage for medical evacuation and hospital stays.

Travel health and safety

Keep in Mind...

The decision to travel is the sole responsibility of the traveller. The traveller is also responsible for his or her own personal safety.

Be prepared. Do not expect medical services to be the same as in Canada. Pack a   travel health kit , especially if you will be travelling away from major city centres.

You must abide by local laws.

Learn about what you should do and how we can help if you are arrested or detained abroad .

North Korea is under international and Canadian sanctions . These sanctions could be relevant to and affect your travel.

Foreigners must register through their host organization within 24 hours of arrival in the country.

You must be accompanied by an official guide at all times. Follow all instructions from your guide. Unauthorized conversations with locals or currency exchange, as well as making a purchase in a store not designated for foreigners, could lead to fines or arrest.

Foreigners are prohibited from using public buses or the subway.

Penalties for possession, use or trafficking of illegal drugs are strict. Convicted offenders can expect jail sentences and heavy fines.

Drugs, alcohol and travel

Import and exports

Importation of satellite telephones and shortwave radios is prohibited. Such items are confiscated upon entry and usually returned upon departure.

The import and export of local currency is prohibited.

Authorities may seize any material that they deem to be pornographic, political or intended for religious proselytizing. If you plan to bring material written in the Korean language, ensure that it will not be interpreted by local authorities as being against the interests of the North Korean regime.

Involvement in politics and unsanctioned religious activity can result in detention.

Photography of airports, roads, bridges, seaports and rail stations is prohibited. Any pictures or video taken outside of tourist areas could result in confiscation of equipment or detention. Seek permission from your tour guide before taking photographs.

Dual citizenship is not legally recognized in North Korea.

If local authorities consider you a citizen of North Korea, they may refuse to grant you access to Canadian consular services. This will prevent us from providing you with those services.

Travellers with dual citizenship

International Child Abduction

The Hague Convention on the Civil Aspects of International Child Abduction is an international treaty. It can help parents with the return of children who have been removed to or retained in certain countries in violation of custody rights. It does not apply between Canada and North Korea.

If your child was wrongfully taken to, or is being held in North Korea by an abducting parent:

• act as quickly as you can
• consult a lawyer in Canada and in North Korea to explore all the legal options for the return of your child
• report the situation to the nearest Canadian government office abroad or to the Vulnerable Children’s Consular Unit at Global Affairs Canada by calling the Emergency Watch and Response Centre.

If your child was removed from a country other than Canada, consult a lawyer to determine if The Hague Convention applies.

Be aware that Canadian consular officials cannot interfere in private legal matters or in another country’s judicial affairs.

• International Child Abduction: A Guidebook for Left-Behind Parents
• Travelling with children
• Canadian embassies and consulates by destination
• Emergency Watch and Response Centre

Ensure that you are not seen to be critical of the country’s political system or its current and former leaders Kim Jong-un, Kim Jong-il and Kim Il-Sung and their family members.

2SLGBTQI+ travellers

North Korean law does not prohibit sexual acts between individuals of the same sex. However, homosexuality is not widely accepted in North Korean society.

2SLGBTQI+ travellers have experienced harassment and verbal abuse.

Travel and your sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression and sex characteristics

The currency is North Korean won (KPW). Cash is the most accepted form of payment. Foreigners are expected to use the Euro or, alternatively, the Chinese renminbi or U.S. dollar. Change in foreign currency is often unavailable. Banking facilities are limited. There are no ATMs. Some hotels accept credit cards, if you give them advance notice.

The rainy (monsoon) season extends from the end of June until August. Typhoons occur in August and September.

Severe rainstorms can cause flooding and landslides, which in turn can result in significant loss of life and extensive damage to infrastructure, as well as hamper the provision of essential services. North Korea is also prone to drought. Keep informed of regional weather forecasts, avoid disaster areas and follow the advice of local authorities.

Tornadoes, cyclones, hurricanes, typhoons and monsoons

Local services

There is no centralized number to reach emergency services. Research and carry contact information for local police and medical facilities.

Consular assistance

There is no resident Canadian government office in North Korea. You can obtain consular assistance from the Swedish embassy in Pyongyang.

For emergency consular assistance, call the Embassy of Canada in South Korea and follow the instructions. At any time, you may also contact the Emergency Watch and Response Centre in Ottawa.

The decision to travel is your choice and you are responsible for your personal safety abroad. We take the safety and security of Canadians abroad very seriously and provide credible and timely information in our Travel Advice to enable you to make well-informed decisions regarding your travel abroad.

The content on this page is provided for information only. While we make every effort to give you correct information, it is provided on an "as is" basis without warranty of any kind, expressed or implied. The Government of Canada does not assume responsibility and will not be liable for any damages in connection to the information provided.

If you need consular assistance while abroad, we will make every effort to help you. However, there may be constraints that will limit the ability of the Government of Canada to provide services.

Learn more about consular services .

Risk Levels

  take normal security precautions.

Take similar precautions to those you would take in Canada.

  Exercise a high degree of caution

There are certain safety and security concerns or the situation could change quickly. Be very cautious at all times, monitor local media and follow the instructions of local authorities.

IMPORTANT: The two levels below are official Government of Canada Travel Advisories and are issued when the safety and security of Canadians travelling or living in the country or region may be at risk.

  Avoid non-essential travel

Your safety and security could be at risk. You should think about your need to travel to this country, territory or region based on family or business requirements, knowledge of or familiarity with the region, and other factors. If you are already there, think about whether you really need to be there. If you do not need to be there, you should think about leaving.

  Avoid all travel

You should not travel to this country, territory or region. Your personal safety and security are at great risk. If you are already there, you should think about leaving if it is safe to do so.

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Experience North Korea

Over 15 years of Safe and Premium Tours to North Korea

The North Korea Experience

“Seeing is believing” they say in North Korea. We invite you to gain a different perspective of the country by experiencing its people, touching its landscapes and learning about its rich culture and 4,000 years of history. Our tours show you the complexity and hidden beauty of this undiscovered country.

Featured Tours

The dprk classic – new years eve special – 5 nights.

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The DPRK Highlights – Party Foundation Day Special – 4 Nights

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Ski and Snowboard North Korea – Kim Jong Il Birthday Special – 7 Nights

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Why Book With Us?

15 years of experience.

Our tours are authentic and cultural with a sense of adventure. We promote education and understanding, providing a platform for people-to-people engagement. We have brought thousands of people to experience the uncharted territory of North Korea with us.

Premium Accommodations

A tour to North Korea is certain to be packed with activities and the importance of a good nights rest and reliable facilities and amenities cannot be overstated. Our packages include prestigious accommodations at standard tour rates, not second-class lodging and basic guest houses in remote areas.

All-Inclusive Packages

There is no add-on pricing. Our published package price is what you pay. Our tours are an all-inclusive experience of return flights between Pyongyang, DPRK visa, premium accommodations, vetted meals, air-conditioned transport and driver, English-speaking Korean guides, entrance fees and unparalleled service!

Small Group Size

Our group size cap is smaller than our competitors to maximize your engagement with our local guides. Unless otherwise stated, our group tours are capped at a maximum of just 12 while maintaining standard tour rates.

Expert Local Guides

Our tours are led by some of the best local guides in the country. They are native North Koreans with a passion for showing visitors the beauty of their nation. All guides speak fluent English. We can even arrange local guides that speak Chinese, Spanish, Russian, French and German!

Unprecedented Access

We offer some of the most unique tours available. We offer family visits, cycling, skiing, marathons, surfing, and golf, all designed to maximize interactions with locals. We want you to experience the culture, the people, the landscapes and the history of North Korea.

Pyongyang is North Korea’s capital and largest city. An ideological stronghold of imposing architecture and grand monuments, Pyongyang is the beating heart of politics, economy, culture, and tourism in North Korea.

The Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) is a buffer zone separating the Korean Peninsula, acting as the de-facto border between North Korea and South Korea.

Mt. Myohyang

Mt. Myohyang is one of North Korea’s most beautiful nature reserves, weaved with rewarding hikes and dotted with ancient relics.

Kaesong, the ancient capital of the Koryo dynasty, is abundant with well-preserved UNESCO sites and cultural treasures. Situated near the South Korean border, Kaesong has played a crucial role in inter-Korean relations.

Wonsan is a charming seaside town on North Korea’s east coast famous for its immaculate yellow-sand beaches and fresh seafood.

Nampo is an industrial port city and key trade gateway to Pyongyang located at the estuary of the Taedong River on the west coast.

Pyongsong is a satellite city of Pyongyang and a developing hub of science and technology often referred to as the ‘Silicon Valley’ of North Korea.

Hayden Peters from Australia

One of the best customer experiences of my life, superb, safe and easy.

Coen Scott from Australia

To put it simply, my experience with Uri Tours was the best money I’ve ever spent on recreation. The larger part of every day was spent seeing new and unique locations, my personal favorite was the ‘Palace of the Sun’. (I mean, how many people outside of the DPRK can say they’ve seen Kim Jong Il’s mummy.. right!?) The hotel where we stayed was great! Friendly staff, clean facilities, good food and it also featured a multitude of shops and services, including but not limited to; a tailor, a bookstore, an art shop, a pool, a bar, a bowling alley and a masseuse!

Conner Brenner

My trip to North Korea was one of the most fascinating experiences of my life. I was fortunate enough to visit the country with my grandfather who was 78 at the time. Due to his age and his physical disabilities, there were a lot of potential issues that needed to be discussed prior to the trip taking place. The team at Uri Tours were incredibly helpful and courteous during this process. Every concern was addressed, and nearly every email I sent the company was responded to on the same day. I felt like I was being treated with the utmost professionalism.

Tara Mina Bayati

The trip was amazing and far exceeded my greatest expectations. I am sure all of the local guides are great, but I truly cannot imagine anyone better than the ones assigned to us. They could not have been more phenomenal and I felt genuinely sad saying goodbye to them at the airport. This was truly an experience of a lifetime which was made possible by Uri Tours. I would highly recommend them to anyone interested in visiting the DPRK!

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THE URI STORY

A pioneering Korean-American family set out to explore the other side of their roots. What they found were people similar to them with a unique culture, rich history and distinct way of living. We have been offering safe and premium tours and travel to North Korea for over 15 years for international travelers.

‘I repeatedly failed to win any awards’: my doomed career as a North Korean novelist

Before I fled south, I spent years as an aspiring fiction writer in the hermit kingdom. I worked hard – but literary glory kept eluding me

Since its founding, North Korea has always had an elaborate bureaucracy for artistic production, organised within the Korean Workers party’s agitation and propaganda department. This framework was set up in emulation of the Soviet system under Stalin. Over time, this artistic bureaucracy has been increasingly adapted to promote the cult of personality surrounding the first leader Kim Il -sung and his descendants.

Among the many cultural products designed to promote the regime, one of the most important is literature. Aspiring writers in North Korea must register with the Korean Writers’ Union and participate in annual writing workshops. The KWU has offices in every province in the country. KWU editors evaluate each work on its ideological merits before allowing its publication in one of the party’s own literary journals. There are particularly strict rules regarding how the leaders and the party may be depicted in literature.

A writer’s life is highly competitive. Literary success means becoming a “professional revolutionary” with lots of perks: a three-month “creativity leave” every year, permission to travel freely around the country and special housing privileges.

Kim Ju-sŏng was one such aspiring writer. A “zainichi” (Japan-born ethnic Korean), he “returned” to North Korea in 1976 at age 16 as part of a wave of emigration encouraged by pro-North Korean groups in Japan and lived in the country for 28 years before defecting to South Korea . The zainichi returnees were an important propaganda tool as well as a source of income and foreign technology for the North Korean regime. Due to their foreign connections they enjoyed a relatively higher standard of living, but they also faced suspicion from the regime and prejudice from ordinary North Koreans.

Below are three excerpts from Kim’s memoir, Tobenai kaeru: Kitachōsen sennō bungaku no jittai (The Frog that Couldn’t Jump: The Reality of North Korea’s Brainwashing Literature) , translated by Meredith Shaw . In it, he describes working at his local KWU branch as an office assistant. The first excerpt begins as he is meeting with his superior shortly after starting the job.

“By the way, how are you managing with the 100-copy collection?”

“Huh? What do you mean, the 100-copy collection?”

“The books in the safe. Don’t neglect your library duties. It’d be a disaster if anything leaked to the outside.”

I set off for the library at a run. There were books in that safe? I had no idea. I figured, at best, it would be a stash of treatises by the leaders on literary theory, or else records of secret directives for KWU eyes only. It turned out that the 100-copy collection was where the union stored translated copies of foreign novels and reference books that writers could access.

With the speed of a bank robber, I yanked out my key, turned the lock and opened the safe. Inside, tightly packed together, were nearly 70 translated copies of foreign novels. Seeing them, I crumpled to the floor in shock.

The first title to jump out at me was Seichō Matsumoto’s Points and Lines, a Japanese psychological thriller published in 1970. With growing excitement, I fumbled through the stack. There was Ernest Hemingway’s For Whom the Bell Tolls, O Henry’s The Last Leaf, Alexandre Dumas fils’ The Lady of the Camellias, Takiji Kobayashi’s Crab Cannery Ship, Dante’s Divine Comedy, Giovanni Boccaccio’s Decameron, Victor Hugo’s Les Misérables, Emily Brontë’s Wuthering Heights, Margaret Mitchell’s Gone With the Wind; and, most exciting of all for me, Seiichi Morimura’s Proof of the Man, a Japanese detective novel that tells the story of a manhunt from Tokyo to New York.

I had joined the KWU in the late 1980s. At that time, the only foreign literature ordinary North Koreans could access was that of other socialist nations, chiefly the USSR and China. I had read Russian writers like Maxim Gorky, Anton Chekhov and Leo Tolstoy, as well as the Chinese classic The True Story of Ah Q by Lu Xun. Occasionally, translations of classics like Shakespeare’s works were published. But nobody even dreamed of seeing literature from enemy countries such as the US and Japan.

Some zainichi returnees like myself had brought books from Japan, which we passed around secretly. One of these was Proof of the Man. Upon finding a Korean-language copy in the 100-copy collection, I was struck by the quality of the translation. I later learned that it had been done by a zainichi acquaintance of mine who worked as a translator.

“Those sneaky bastards. If we ordinary citizens were to read this we’d be put away for political crimes, but they get to enjoy it all in secret,” my zainichi friend grumbled when I showed him.

“You can’t tell anyone about this. I’d get arrested.”

“Hey, they don’t have any graphic novels, do they? I’d love to see Golgo 13 , Blackjack , or Captain Tsubasa again.”

Having stumbled upon this windfall, I devoured the contents of the 100-copy collection. My favourite was Guy de Maupassant. I was deeply impressed by his short stories The Necklace and Boule de Suif and used them as models for my own work.

Any mismanagement of the 100-copy collection would be prosecuted as a political crime, since it would in effect be distributing capitalist reactionary materials to the public. I don’t understand the logic, but I’ve heard that the Narcotics Control Law deems it a greater crime to sell or transport illegal materials than to consume them.

Use of the 100-copy collection was restricted exclusively to our writers, and lending to civilians was illegal. But somehow a rumour got out, and I was besieged with requests. Most came from party bureaucrats or their children, and it was hard to refuse them. The most popular request was for Proof of the Man. The three-volume set was ragged and dog-eared with use.

One time a funny thing happened. A big shot from the KWP administration bureau asked to borrow the book. His section controlled party advancement and appointments, so I wasn’t about to refuse him. (Of course, it also didn’t hurt that he passed me a carton of Mild Seven cigarettes.)

More than a month passed and I hadn’t got it back. To my increasingly pointed reminders, he always asked for “just a little more time”. The 100-copy collection had to undergo an annual inspection, at which time all the books had to be in order. An inspector was dispatched from the central KWU organisation, and if even one volume was missing, there could be dire consequences. If I was unlucky, I might be expelled from the KWU or even face legal prosecution.

With the inspector’s visit just a week away, I grew concerned enough to visit the official’s home. However powerful he may be, the 100-copy collection fell under the purview of the party’s propaganda and agitation department, and thus was beyond the reach of local cadres. If I let things get out of control, I could forget about becoming a writer – I’d be lucky if I wasn’t sent to some remote farm for the rest of my days. Summoning my courage, I arrived at the party officials’ exclusive apartment block and knocked on the door.

“Who is it?” a young woman’s voice chirped at the same instant the door opened. The delicious aroma of roasting meat assailed me. Before my eyes was a pale young beauty in her 20s.

“I’m from the KWU. Is the comrade director at home?”

“Ah, you’re here about the book? Come on in. My father’s not home yet. He’s gone to Pyongyang on business.”

“In that case, I’ll come another time. If you could get the book back within a week, I’d be much obliged.” But my feet just kept right on moving into the entryway.

I’d heard that the official had a daughter attending the University of Fine Art, but I’d never met her before. I forgot all about the book, enchanted by her radiant beauty and smile, and allowed her to draw me into the home.

“I heard your union has many diverting books. I’m a great lover of books myself, my father is always bringing them for me.”

It was the first time I’d ever been inside a party official’s home. Emboldened by my curiosity, I looked around as she chattered. It was equivalent to a four-bedroom, quite luxurious by North Korean standards of the time. In the parlour was a leather sofa, a Hitachi colour TV with a VCR and impressive speakers – in other words, posh digs. I was always hearing that party cadres lived incredibly well, but I’d never imagined it was this fabulous.

Suddenly, three more beauties appeared in the entryway. They were all friends of the director’s daughter from the university. The sight of them arrayed around me was quite breathtaking.

“You are a novelist? But you’re so young, and tall.”

“Oh, no. I’m just a common citizen who hopes to become a novelist someday.”

They giggled in unison as I joined them on the sofa.

“What’s so funny? Do I have something on my face?”

At my side, the director’s daughter punched me lightly on the shoulder. “La, ‘citizen’… There’s no need to use such stuffy terms. Do we look like peasants to you?” She punched the remote control, and a South Korean music video appeared on the screen.

A cup of coffee appeared before me. The scent of Nescafé Gold Blend filled my nostrils. Sitting there, watching the South Korean singer Kim Jong-hwan belt out the ballad Reason for Existence, I felt like questioning my own existence. What are these people? Is this still North Korea?

Nowadays, whenever people ask my nationality, I always reply that I’m an alien from the planet Baltan. But the elites of North Korea are from a completely different galaxy.

Feeling like a man bewitched, I suddenly wanted to get the hell out of there. It was terrifying to sit there blithely doing things that under ordinary circumstances would get me shot.

“Listen, about that book … Do you have it here?”

“Yes, it’s here. We’ll be finished by tonight actually. I was just about to return it.”

It shortly became clear what she meant by “finished”. The beautiful girls all took out their school notebooks, and in each one I saw Proof of the Man written out word for word.

“Hold on – have you been copying this book?”

“Oh, the story’s just so moving and lovely. These two are in the drama department and they wanted to show it to all their friends. And it’s just so complicated getting books from the 100-copy collection.”

“ Maitta !” I swore in Japanese without thinking.

“Huh? What’s that mean?”

“Nothing. But this is a real mess you’ve made. If you’re found out, we’re all screwed.”

“Oh, nonsense. We’re all daughters of party officials, they won’t arrest us. But why is it wrong to read such a wonderful book? It’s the same with songs, too. Isn’t it natural for a frog in a well to want to see the wider world?”

“A frog in a well … Really, you tadpoles are something else. Look, just keep this whole thing under wraps, and try to get it all done tonight, OK?”

The beautiful tadpoles kept their promise and protected the secret. Proof of the Man was returned in good order. As for the hand-written copies, I have no idea what became of them. I can only imagine they went some way toward changing the mindset of the younger generation and fertilising a new revolutionary consciousness.

I believe the reason my writing received poor evaluations lay primarily in my choice of genre. All of my stories took place in Japan, or had zainichi as the main characters. In North Korea these were dismissed as “foreign works”, the catch-all term for anything about the wider world. Like anywhere, in North Korean literary circles there is a fair amount of specialisation, and each writer has his or her own style and character.

The most highly regarded genre, it goes without saying, is No 1 literature – that is, works about members of the ruling Kim family. This is not a genre that just anybody can write. In order of esteem, the genres of North Korean literature are:

1) No 1 works: stories about the achievements and personalities of the Kim family.

2) Anti-Japan partisan works AKA revolutionary works: stories set within the colonial-era independence movement.

3) War works: stories set during the Korean war.

4) Historical works: stories set during the Yi, Koguryo or Koryo dynasties.

5) Real-life works: stories about ordinary society from the postwar to the present.

6) South Korean works: stories set in South Korea.

7) Foreign works: stories set anywhere outside Korea.

I was involved with foreign works. Aside from No 1 works, writers had free choice of any genre, and we were also free to move around and experiment between genres. But only the most elite, accomplished writers were permitted to produce No 1 works.

Of course, writing is not limited to fiction; there were writers specialising in poetry, children’s literature, plays, translation and film scriptwriting. I produced many works of fiction, but all fell within the “foreign” genre, and thus were considered ideologically and politically inferior to, say, partisan or real-life works.

As an aside, I’d like to briefly describe the KWU organisation. At the top is the chairman, followed by the vice-chairmen in charge of fiction and poetry, respectively. Below that are separate divisions for fiction, poetry, theatre, foreign literature in translation, children’s literature and production for the masses. From the 1980s, a new renaissance came to North Korea, known as the “film revolution”, which brought big changes to the KWU as well. It was reorganised under the General Literary Arts Union with separate but equal divisions for Korean Literature Production and Korean Film Literature Production. This was based on Kim Jong-il’s policy of encouraging competition by putting literature and film on equal footing.

I entered the KWU at a time when this competition between film and literature was at its peak. Because Kim Jong-il was such a passionate film buff, the literature writers were always treated as doormats by the screenwriters. From then on, film and literature developed separately as instruments of state persuasion.

At any rate, I repeatedly failed to win any literary awards – the key to career advancement – despite diligently carrying out my KWU assignments. I waited patiently for my chance at admission to the main university writing program.

That chance came and went twice as I worked at the KWU. Both times I received recommendations and was permitted to take the entrance exam, but both times I failed. Why I failed, despite receiving good marks and being highly recommended, was something I came to understand later.

Japan is known as a country of bibliophiles, with detective novels and historical fiction particularly popular. North Korea also has many books, though they are not what you would call popular. The overwhelming majority – indeed, almost all of them – are books glorifying the Kim family.

Aside from the many books and treatises attributed to Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il themselves, there are also “morality testimonies” idolising the two Kims.

These are first-person accounts by individuals who have had personal encounters with the leaders.

In South Korea, I am sometimes asked if I ever met Kim Il-sung or Kim Jong-il. I reply: “If I had, I would not have left the country.”

“Why?” they ask. “Are such people monitored more closely?”

“Not at all. In fact, they receive special benefits. In one fell swoop their lives become rose-coloured – rainbow-coloured, even. In North Korea, the Kims are gods. If you receive the favour of the gods, your whole life changes, doesn’t it?”

As for precisely how one’s life changes, that varies from case to case, but it is never short of miraculous.

I believe the Kim dynasty’s formula for governing basically boils down to “extreme contrasts”. Put simply, by singling out one person as a sacrificial lamb, you train 10,000 others to behave. And by bestowing miraculous good fortune on to one, you draw the devotion of another 10,000. It’s the classic carrot-and-stick approach.

The sticks can take many forms, but most notable are the countless purges. But what of the carrots?

As leaders of the nation, the Kims have always travelled the country conducting “on-the-spot guidance”. During these tours, individuals who encounter the leaders are divided into two categories: witnesses and interviewees.

A witness might be someone who saw the leader up close or got included in a group photo with him. Out of countless witnesses, a few are blessed to become interviewees – meaning people who actually exchanged words with the leader. In other words, one’s level of treatment depends on whether or not one actually “spoke with God”.

For example, suppose the leader visits a factory somewhere. The local party organisation will have decided beforehand which people will be granted an audience with the great man – typically the factory managers and model workers – and these become witnesses. Should one of those witnesses manage to converse with Kim, that person becomes an interviewee. The rest of the factory workers are usually sent home early or shuttled somewhere out of the way during the encounter. Some factories leave people working during guidance visits, but those workers would be told: “The general is coming through here, don’t you dare turn around.”

I’ve heard of factories that shoved workers into a storage locker when one of the Kims dropped by unexpectedly. So it’s not like just anybody can become a witness.

For those who do, the rewards are various, but a commemorative photograph with the leader is standard. This photograph serves as the interviewee’s “license”; it is beautifully framed and hung prominently in the home like a family heirloom. If you acquire such a portrait, from that moment on the local party takes special care of your family. This can mean more rapid promotion at work, a bigger home or permission to send your kids to better schools.

For interviewees, the rewards are several degrees greater. It varies depending on the content of the conversation, but the greatest reward I’ve heard of included a permit to move to Pyongyang, a luxury apartment and a Mercedes-Benz.

The witnesses and interviewees who receive such miracles are thus spread throughout the country, fervently proselytising about the largesse of the Kim family to their friends and neighbours. These encounters with the godlike Kims are memorialised through those “morality testimonies”.

These stories take two basic forms: those written by the witnesses themselves, and those recounted by one of us writers.

I’ll give you an example.

Late one night, a car braked suddenly on the streets of Pyongyang.

“What is it, General?” the cadre riding shotgun turned with concern to Kim Jong-il in the back seat.

“That light in that apartment window over there. I wonder who’s still awake at this late hour. Let’s go find out.”

“But General, your guards are not with us, and we haven’t cleared it with the events bureau. Why don’t I at least check it out first, while you wait in the car?”

“You’re saying I need protecting from something, at this late hour? Will you not be satisfied unless you wake up a bunch of people and make a big fuss for my benefit? Like the Great Leader Kim Il-sung always said, ‘A leader who does not trust his people is a leader who does not trust himself.’ The Great Leader’s government is a just government that gives everything for the people.”

With that, the General left the car and headed toward the still-lit apartment. His faithful aide looked after him with misty eyes, moved by the sight of the Leader carrying on his late father’s motto, “Serve the people as heaven”.

“Who is it?” said the woman who answered the door at his knock.

“I am Kim Jong-il. I saw that your light was on so very late and wondered what you were doing.”

Suddenly confronted by the general, the lady of the house was unable to move. Sensing her sudden change in mood, her husband rushed over, followed by their two daughters, a twentysomething and a 10-year-old. Everyone promptly burst into tears of joy.

Kim Jong-il tried to calm them. “Hush, now, your neighbours are sleeping. If it’s not too much of an intrusion, might I enter and have a word with you?”

And so the general joined this very ordinary family at their table. “Now, tell me what on earth you are all doing up so late?”

Nobody answered; they all just sat with downcast eyes, fighting back tears. Just as the general was wondering if perhaps someone had died or there’d been some calamity, the younger daughter spoke up.

“General, Father’s going to become a party member tomorrow. We’re all just so happy we can’t possibly sleep.” Then, as if pulled by an invisible trigger, the whole group burst into tears at once. Realising that these were tears of joy, the general sighed with relief.

He looked about the room. In one corner someone had been ironing a suit, and the elder daughter held a card case that she had been embroidering with colourful nylon thread, clearly meant for the father to carry his party membership card in.

“And what were you doing?” he asked the younger daughter, gesturing for her to sit on his lap.

“It’s a secret, I haven’t told anybody yet.”

“Will you share your secret just with me? I promise not to tell.”

“Really? Then let’s go to my room. Everybody else keep out!”

“Hey munchkin, you’re being rude to the general. Get back here,” her father said, trying to stop her.

But Kim Jong-il just waved him off with a smile. “That’s all right, I’ve got kids of my own, you know.”

Entering the girl’s room, the general found a colourful bouquet of azaleas lying on a chair. “And what have we here?”

“They’re the flowers I’m going to put at the Great Leader’s statue tomorrow. For the past 10 days I’ve been wishing for them to bloom, and they did!”

“Where did you find them?”

“Outside the city, with my friends. We had to walk really far, way up in the mountains.”

“And why did you choose to offer azaleas?”

“As a thank you for my father becoming a party member. Since there’s not much else I can do, I thought I could at least offer the Great Leader his favourite flowers. But …”

“But what? You can tell me.”

“I don’t know what else to offer him!” And she burst into tears.

The general held her tightly and stroked her hair. “That’s all right, your thoughtfulness is enough. These azaleas that you made bloom with the warmth of your feeling are the most beautiful treasure in the world.”

The story ends there. There may be an epilogue stating that a few days later the family received several new appliances and pieces of furniture as gifts from Kim Jong-il. The father got rapidly promoted, and the younger daughter grew up to become a high-level party official.

That should give you some idea of a typical “morality testimony”. In fact, I just made it up, deploying the particular creative skills that are unique to North Korean writers. But there are countless others following this basic pattern.

This piece first appeared in issue 10 of the Dial

The best stories take time . The Guardian Long Read magazine compiles the finest longform journalism the Guardian has to offer: from politics to technology, food to cosmology, literature to sex, there is something for everyone. Beautifully bound, this 100-page special edition is available to order from the Guardian bookshop and is on sale at selected WH Smith Travel stores .

• The long read
• South Korea
• North Korea

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• Passports, travel and living abroad
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North Korea

Entry requirements.

This advice reflects the UK government’s understanding of current rules for people travelling on a full ‘British citizen’ passport from the UK, for the most common types of travel.

The authorities in North Korea set and enforce entry rules. If you’re not sure how these requirements apply to you, contact the Embassy of the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea ( DPRK ) in London by email at [email protected] , or by telephone on 020 8992 4965 .

Tourists can normally only travel to North Korea as part of an organised tour. Independent travellers will need a sponsor and permission from the Ministry for Foreign Affairs. This is usually only possible for business travellers.

COVID-19 rules

No entry into North Korea is permitted whilst COVID-19 border restrictions remain in place.

Passport validity requirements

Your passport should be valid for the proposed duration of your stay. No additional period of validity beyond this is required.

Check with your travel provider that your passport and other travel documents meet requirements. Renew your passport if you need to.

You will be denied entry if you do not have a valid travel document or try to use a passport that has been reported lost or stolen.

Visa requirements

You will need a visa to enter North Korea. For further information contact the Embassy of the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea ( DPRK ) in London by email at [email protected] , or by telephone on 020 8992 4965.

Applying for a visa

Visa application enquires should be made directly to the embassy.

Vaccination requirements

At least 8 weeks before your trip, check the vaccinations and certificates you need in TravelHealthPro’s North Korea guide .

Registration with the authorities

You must register with the Ministry of Foreign Affairs if your visit is for more than 24 hours. Most hotels will automatically complete this process on your behalf.

Some hotels may insist on full cash payment in advance when you check in.

Customs rules

You must leave any Global Positioning System technology with North Korean customs. You can collect your devices when you leave North Korea.

You can bring a foreign mobile phone into the country, but you must register it at the border. You can only use it with a North Korean SIM card.

Avoid bringing books or other written material in the Korean language, including anything with religious content. Consider carefully any films or television programmes that you bring into the country, either on DVD or on data storage devices. Any literature or media deemed to have an anti-government message or deemed subversive or pornographic by the authorities in North Korea risk confiscation, with severe penalties including imprisonment as a result.

There have also been cases of travel guides being confiscated at the airport on arrival; they are usually returned on departure.

Taking money into North Korea

Shops and restaurants list prices in the local currency (North Korean won) but usually charge foreigners in foreign currency. They convert the won price using official exchange rates.

The euro and US dollar are the most widely accepted currencies, although some places accept Chinese yuan.

It is illegal to import and export the local currency. There are no restrictions on importing and exporting foreign currency, but you must declare it at customs. Credit cards and travellers cheques are not accepted.

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North Korea (DPRK)

Why should you choose Koryo Tours?

Choosing to travel to unusual destinations such as North Korea is a big decision, and choosing the right people to take you is an incredibly important part of that. Learn about how we facilitate tourism responsibly in some of the most interesting and unique destinations on our planet, and at the same time ensure you get the most out of your once-in-a-lifetime experience .

I also want to see:

• Group Tours
• Private Tours
• Specialist Tours
• Special Events

A tour to North Korea (DPRK) is the ultimate in adventure travel. Join Koryo Tours as we explore Pyongyang and some of North Korea's most remote locations for an experience you'll never forget, all in the safe hands of North Korea tour experts.

Our North Korea tours are designed with the purpose of making sure you see and do as much as possible on tour in North Korea (DPRK). Touring this country is the opportunity of a lifetime for many, and we use our 28 years of North Korea experience to ensure you get the most out of your time there. We have classic , speciality , and budget North Korea tours scheduled throughout the year. Get in touch for help on deciding which North Korea tour is best for you. Our experts are happy to answer all your questions. Unsure if a North Korea group tour is for you? Read Why Choose a Koryo Tours Group Tour or contact us. Alternatively, head to our North Korea Private Tours and get in touch for a bespoke North Korea tour itinerary. North Korea Country Profile North Korea FAQs North Korea Map Note: We require all travellers on international and North Korea tours to have valid travel insurance . NOTICE: The North Korean border is currently closed due to the Coronavirus pandemic. Please check COVID-19 & North Korea for updated information. NO Tours to North Korea (DPRK) will be taking place until the border is open again. The tours below are planned departure dates but until the country is open to tourists again all tours will remain suspended.

Use the search function below to find tours. Please note that our tours for May Day start in April and tours for China National Day (1 October) start in September.

• Pyongyang Marathon

Budget Tours

June 2024 — 2 tours, june 11 - june 15/16 2024.

Koryo North Korea Budget Tour Summer

4 nights in the DPRK + North Korea-China travel time. Flight entry included!

Beat the summer rush in the DPRK and join this North Korea budget tour! The best way to see highlights incl. city tour of Pyongyang, historic Kaesong, and Nampo on the West Coast. From 999 EUR per person

Please apply by 31st May, 2024 .

This tour is managed by...

Gergo Vaczi

Greg is the Koryo Tours DPRK Tour Manager.

He grew up in post-socialist Hungary and first travelled to North Korea as a tourist in 2016 following in the footsteps of his grandparents, who visited in 1988. He has since lived in the Netherlands, Israel, China, Korea and Iceland and holds a degree in Sociology and Anthropology. He has taken 26 groups to North Korea and lived in Seoul studying the Korean language full-time for two years. He also completed a long study course in Korean at a university in Pyongyang.

Read more about Greg's journey to become a North Korean Tour Leader  here.

Our North Korea Summer Budget Tour falls after the Tano Festival ('Dragon Boat Festival' in China), which marks the end of the planting season and the start of summer in North Korea. The pleasant scenery and warm weather of June traditionally made this the time for outdoor activities and festivals since ancient times.

This is an introductory trip to Korea for the frugal traveller in search of adventure, offering a no-frills alternative to our more advanced tours offers a great way to see a tightly edited package of the country’s most interesting sights, including a city tour of Pyongyang and a visit to  Kaesong south of the 38th Parallel on the North-South border.

You’ll also visit the port town of Nampo and the West Sea Barrage , an engineering megaproject at the mouth of the Taedong River.

Scroll down for an overview of the North Korea Budget Tour highlights, tour itinerary, DPRK tourist visa information, and extra add-ons.

Koryo Tours International Tours

Mongolia | Turkmenistan | Kazakhstan | Bhutan | Russia | Tajikistan  

• See Pyongyang highlights, including the Mansudae Grand Monument, the Pyongyang Metro, the Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum, and USS Pueblo
• Historic Kaesong south of the 38th Parallel
• Get out of the capital, to the port city of Nampo, a centre of trade and industry

Briefing Day

June 10 | monday.

*Pre-Tour Briefing | We require all travellers to attend a pre-tour briefing that covers regulations, etiquette, safety, and practicalities for travel in North Korea. The briefing lasts approximately one hour followed by a question and answer session. Please be punctual for the briefing. You can come early, meet your fellow travellers, and pay any outstanding tour fees. A proper briefing is an essential part of travel to North Korea.

• Recommended latest arrival in Beijing.
• 16:00   |   Briefing in Beijing.

Overnight   |   Hotel in Beijing not included in the tour. Contact us for recommendations near our office!

June 11 | Tuesday

Arrival day in Pyongyang

• 10:00 | Meet your Tour Leader and the group at  Beijing Capital International Airport (PEK) Terminal 2 .
• Flight departure from Beijing Capital International Airport (PEK) Terminal 2 on Air Koryo flight JS152 at 13:05. A 1.5-hour flight with basic lunch ( vegetarian option is subject to availability). Check-in starts 3 hours prior to departure.  
• Flight arrival to Pyongyang's Sunan International Airport (FNJ) at 16:05. DPRK immigration and customs, meet your Korean guides and transfer to the city.  
• Pyongyang Metro Tour  | One of the deepest metro systems in the world with stunning artwork reflecting the name of each station. Ride six stations on the Chollima Line.  
• Arch of Triumph  | A 60-m archway commemorating the liberation of Korea from Japanese colonial rule and larger than its counterpart in Paris.

Overnight:   Ryanggang Hotel , Pyongyang | The Two Rivers Hotel (so named as it sits on a hill overlooking the point where the Potong river and Taedong Rivers meet). The hotel offers great views over different parts of the city (depending on which side of the building you stay on) from the open balconies, and also from the ‘swivelling’ restaurant. The underground karaoke room here is excellent and the bar in the lobby is also great.

June 12 | Wednesday

Pyongyang City Tour

• Optional morning run for the early risers on Sports Street past stadiums and halls whose architecture reflects the sports played within.  
• Mansudae Fountain Park | The historic centre of Pyongyang popular with local citizens after school and on weekends. Flanked by examples of ancient and modern architecture from different eras.  
• Mansudae Grand Monument  | Enormous bronze statues of the DPRK leadership overlooking downtown Pyongyang. A presentation of flowers and bow by the group is customary here. Visitations are by special request only and decent dress is required. No shorts or flip-flop sandals allowed here.  
• Grand People’s Study House   | Huge national library and public university housed in a large neo-traditional Korean building overlooking Kim Il Sung Square and the downtown Pyongyang.  
• Foreign Languages Bookshop  | Store selling Korean publications translated into English, German, French, Russian, Chinese, and Spanish. Also pick up DVDs, postcards, and small works of art.  
• Kim Il Sung Square  | Pyongyang’s central square lined with government ministries, museum and The Grand People’s Study House, Korea’s national library. See the centre of it all!  
• Okryugwan | A meal at Pyongyang’s most famous restaurant. Housed in a huge traditional building on the banks of the Taedong River. Okryugwan specialises in Pyongyang Cold Noodles.
• Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum and USS Pueblo  | We’ll tour this world-class museum led by a local museum guide. Renovated in 2012 and its exhibits of Korean War from the DPRK perspective containing artifacts, documents, photos, and lifelike dioramas. The exterior grounds house the War Victory Monument and displays of Korean People’s Army Hero Equipment and captures equipment from the US military, including the spyship USS Pueblo . Central to the understanding of the country today and a highlight of the trip.  
• Drive south on the Pyongyang-Kaesong (formerly known as Reunification) Motorway  to Kaesong , historic capital of the medieval Koryo Dynasty (918-1392 AD). Once located in South Korea, the city changed hands during the Korean War. It is now located just north of the DMZ.  
• Dinner with a live Kayagum performance - a traditional Korean instrument in a unique setting!

Overnight:  Minsok Folk Hotel , Kaesong   |   Traditional style hotel where guests sleep on heated floors in Korean style. Housed in beautiful courtyards of Kaesong’s old city, structures date back to the Ri Dynasty. Basic bathroom facilities. Hot water not guaranteed and erratic electricity supply – please bring a torch.

June 13 | Thursday

Historic Kaesong and the Joint Security Area (*Please note that due to the current political situation and recent chenges, it is our understanding that visits to Panmunjom and the JSA as well as to the Concrete Wall is not possible at least until further notice. If that is the case at the time of our vist we will visit UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Kaesong as well a ginseng factory .)

• Old City Walk and South Gate | A stroll from the hotel through Kaesong’s historic district lined with homes dating back to the Ri Dynasty from the city’s historic South Gate.  
• Panmunjom Armistice Village and DMZ  ( *Currently suspended ) | The site of the signing of the 1953 armistice that ended the Korean War and demarcation line between north and south. On some days it is possible to visit the hut straddling the line, where negotiations between both sides once took place. Here we will be accompanied by military guides from the Korean People's Army.  
• Kaesong Koryo Museum  | Once the Songgyung Academy, a Confucian school, and now a museum on the Koryo Dynasty exhibiting historical objects, statues, pagodas, and porcelain from that era. A UNESCO World Heritage Site.  
• Kaesong Korean Stamp Exhibition Hall   | Store selling stamps, postcards, local ginseng , souvenirs, art, and more! One of the best postcard collections in the country and friendly staff.  
• Traditional Royal Korean Lunch ( pangsanggi )  | A meal made of 12 dishes served in brass bowls fit for the kings of old. The more dishes, the more distinguished the guest! Traditional Korean 'sweet meat soup' is an option here ( 5 EUR ).
• Janam Hill  | Statues of the DPRK leadership on a hill overlooking Kaesong city and historic pavilion used for archery demonstrations in days of yore.  
• Concrete Wall and view of DMZ   ( *Currently suspended ) | View of a complex fortification system erected on the southern boundary of the DMZ accompanied by a military guide. The wall is seen as evidence of intent to permanently divide the nation. A 45 minute drive each way from Kaesong through scenic countryside.  
• Drive back to Pyongyang .  A 3-hour drive.  
• Kwangbok Department Store  | Exchange for Korean currency and shop with the citizens of Pyongyang! Try the snack stands for some of Pyongyang’s best local eats.

Overnight:  Ryanggang Hotel, Pyongyang

June 14 | Friday

Nampo and Pyongyang City Tour

• Mangyongdae Native House  | Birthplace and childhood home of President Kim Il Sung. A traditional Korean house in a beautiful natural surrounding.  
• Drive west along the ‘Youth Hero Highway’ to Nampo (45 minutes to 1-hour drive), the port city of Pyongyang at the mouth of the Taedong River on the West Sea.  
• Chongsan-ri Co-Operative Farm | The DPRK’s most famous and iconic model farm. Visited hundreds of times by Kim Il Sung (there is a bronze statue of him and various farm workers here), the place where the ‘Chongsan-ri Method’ was developed (they will explain on-site). See how the farming system works, visit a farmhouse and the local shop,and kindergarten, see the fields and greenhouses.  
• West Sea Barrage | An 8 km concrete, steel, and earthen barrage constructed between the Taedong River estuary and the West Sea for land reclamation, irrigation, flood prevention, and power generation. It also acts as a ship lock and fish ladder. One of the DPRK’s greatest engineering feats.  
• Pi Island | A local beach next to West Sea Barrage. Go for a swim or join the locals for a karaoke ( weather permitting ).
• Tae’an Glass Factory | Factory producing glass and glass products for the domestic market. Watch the glass-making process from smelting to sheet-cutting and even try to break a sheet of strengthened glass.  
• Drive back to Pyongyang .  
• Party Foundation Monument   | Iconic Monument made up of stone depictions of hands gripping the hammer, sickle, and writing brush – symbols of the Workers’ Party of Korea. Built in 1995 for the 40th anniversary of the Party.  
• Tower of the Juche Idea  | Iconic tower dedicated to the DPRK’s guiding philosophy on the Taedong River. Take the elevator to the top for great views of the city ( elevator ticket is 5 EUR).  
• Taedonggang Bar No. 3 | Upscale bar across the street from the Tower of the Juche Idea. There are a variety of beers on tap produced at Pyongyang’s Taedonggang Brewery outside of town ( 2-2.5 EUR per glass ).  
• Farewell dinner at Duck BBQ Restaurant  | Famous restaurant in south Pyongyang specializing in duck meat barbecue on a grill. Southcentral does it like nobody does!

June 15 | Saturday

Departure Day from Pyongyang and Return to Beijing by flight or train. Please confirm your preferred transport method upon booking.

• Flight departure from Pyongyang on Air Koryo Flight JS151  at 08:30 with scheduled arrival at Beijing Capital Airport (PEK) Terminal 2 at 09:50.
• Train departure by train to Beijing  at 10:25 with transfer in Dandong. The scheduled arrival is to Beijing Station  on Sunday, June 16 at 08:40. For this tour the default option is hard sleeper (six beds per berth).

End of Tour

Upgrade to your own room

All hotel rooms on our all-inclusive group tours feature twin beds, and will be shared. If you'd like a room to yourself then you can upgrade for an extra 40 EUR per night.

Return by plane not train

This tour enters the DPRK by plane. But the default setting upon your return is the 24-hour international train from Pyongyang to Beijing. For an extra 265 EUR you can opt for the plane back instead. The flight takes around 90 minutes.

Visit Dandong — the Chinese gateway to the DPRK

Instead of immediately returning to Beijing when your tour ends you can take some extra time to visit this fascinating border city, which directly faces the DPRK town of Sinuiju, but lies on the Chinese side of the Yalu River. We offer both one-night and two-night fully guided extensions that take in all the sights of Dandong, with a special North Korea theme.

Insurance for up to six nights

We're unable to take you on one of our tours if you do not have medical insurance that covers the destination in question. Issues of isolation and infrastructure where we go mean it would be irresponsible of us to do so. We can provide this if you do not have it — or you can use your own.

What is / is not included?

• Air Koryo flight Beijing – Pyongyang
• Train travel Pyongyang – Beijing by hard sleeper class with transfer in Dandong
• All meals on the tour apart from meals on the train
• Hotel accommodation in North Korea
• Two local English-speaking Korean guides and a driver per group
• A Koryo Tours tour leader
• All transportation in North Korea

NOT INCLUDED

• DPRK visa fee 60 EUR
• Optional Air Koryo flight Pyongyang – Beijing (265 EUR)
• Optional single room supplement of 40 EUR per night
• Tips for the local Korean guides and driver (approx 10-15 EUR per day)
• Optional activities such as the lift up the Juche Tower (5 EUR) or a visit to the funfair (approx. 2 EUR entrance fee per person)
• Entry tickets for special events if applicable – for example Pyongyang Circus (approx. 20 EUR per person) or film screening (approx. 10 EUR)
• Meals include a complimentary beer and water, but you will need to purchase extra drinks if needed
• Spending money for souvenirs

Groups will be in the experienced hands of two or three local Korean guides and a Koryo Tours tour leader. Please note that when on tour your day-to-day itinerary may differ to what is advertised above. Your tour leader will ensure, however, that everything available at the time is covered, and replacement options are provided where needed. We will also add in extras when there is time (such as a visit to a local bar or amusement park).

We visit the DPRK regularly so know all the best places to go, and how to make the most of your days there to guarantee the experience of a lifetime. After the tour, we will send out a list of all participants' emails so you can keep in touch, swap photos etc. If you do not wish to be on this list then please let us know.

June 29 - July 6/7 2024

The Summer Holiday Tour in North Korea

7 nights in North Korea + Beijing-Pyongyang travel time

Discover North Korea’s rarely visited East coast from the industrial centre of Hamhung to the hiking trails of Mt. Kumgang From 1495 EUR per person

Please apply by 17th June, 2024 .

Sun, sea, and sand… Yes, that’s right!

North Korea may not be known as a summer get-away, or indeed known for its beaches, but we think a summer package holiday in North Korea is far too underrated, and one of the best holiday destinations to give you one of the most unforgettable trips of a lifetime. Plus, you won’t have to worry about tourists crowding the beaches!

Our Summer Holiday Tour is an annual favourite which gives you the highlights of North Korea – and more. This includes exploring the capital Pyongyang and historic Kaesong on the Korean Demilitarised Zone on the North-South Korea border, while also taking time to see the country's rarely visited east coast.

On the east coast, you will see the port city of Wonsan and the industrial centre of Hamhung , while having the chance to explore the hiking trails in Mt Kumgang . The weather is beautiful at this time of year – warm during the day but not too hot, making it one of the best holiday destinations this summer!

Scroll down for an overview of our Summer Holiday tour package highlights, tour itinerary, transport options , DPRK tourist visa information, and extra add-ons.

• Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum: World-class museum of the Korean War and site of the captured USS Pueblo
• Hamhung Fertiliser Plant: Giant chemical-industrial complex vital to DPRK agriculture
• Mt. Kumgang: The 'Diamond Mountain'. Breathtaking views and the best hiking in the DPRK

28 June | Friday

*Pre-Tour Briefing | We require all travellers to attend a pre-tour briefing that covers regulations, etiquette, safety, and practicalities for travel in North Korea. The briefing lasts approximately one hour followed by a question and answer session. Please be punctual for the briefing. You can come early, meet your fellow travellers, and pay any outstanding tour fees. A proper briefing is an essential part of travel to North Korea. For this tour, we will hold two briefings. One in the morning for those departing by train this afternoon and the other in the afternoon for those departing by flight the next day.

• 10:00   | Briefing for those departing by train.
• 16:00   |   Briefing for those departing by flight.  
• 17:26   |   Train travellers depart Beijing Station by Chinese domestic sleeper train to Dandong , the Chinese city on the border with North Korea. Please arrange independent travel to the train station and arrive at least an hour and a half early for the train departure.

Overnight   |   Hotel in Beijing not included in the tour for those taking the flight the next day. Contact us for recommendations near our office! Those travelling by train will spend the night on the train.

29 June | Saturday

• Train transfer at Dandong Station from overnight sleeper train to Dandong-Pyongyang local. Our local representative in Dandong will assist with the transfer. Train crosses the China-North Korea border followed by North Korean customs and immigration.
• Flight departure from Beijing Capital International Airport (PEK) Terminal 2 on Air Koryo flight JS152 at 13:05. A 1.5-hour flight with basic lunch ( vegetarian option is subject to availability). Check-in starts 3 hours prior to departure.
• Flight arrival to Pyongyang's Sunan International Airport (FNJ) at 16:05. DPRK immigration and customs, meet your Korean guides and transfer to the city.
• Kim Il Sung Square   | Pyongyang’s central square lined with government ministries, museums, and The Grand People’s Study House.  
• Train arrival to Pyongyang Railway Station at 18:45.  
• Walk on Future Scientists' Street | An evening stroll through one of Pyongyang's newest neighbourhoods.

Overnight:   Yanggakdo International Hotel , Pyongyang  | Home away from home for most (but not all!) foreign visitors to Pyongyang, this 47-story hotel is located on an island in the middle of the Taedong River and offers great views of the city. Comfortable rooms and comprehensive leisure facilities: swimming pool, spa, billiards, bowling, gift shops, tea houses, beer brewed on-site, and a Chinese-run casino.

30 June | Sunday

Sunday in Pyongyang and drive to Kaesong

• Moranbong Park | We’ll take a stroll in Pyongyang’s central park popular with locals for picnics, dances, and sports. The park is filled with historic pavilions, walls, and monuments – modern and ancient, a few of which are among the traditional ‘Eight Great Sights of Pyongyang’.
• Kwangbok Department Store  | Exchange for Korean currency and shop with the citizens of Pyongyang! Try the snack stands for some of Pyongyang’s best local eats.  
• Mangyongdae Native House  | Birthplace and childhood home of President Kim Il Sung. A traditional Korean house in a beautiful natural surrounding.

Tower of the Juche Idea  | Iconic tower is dedicated to the DPRK’s guiding philosophy on the Taedong River. Take the elevator to the top for 5 EUR for great views of the city.

Overnight:  Minsok Folk Hotel , Kaesong | Traditional style hotel where guests sleep on heated floors in Korean style. Housed in beautiful courtyards of Kaesong’s old city, structures date back to the Ri Dynasty. Basic bathroom facilities. Hot water not guaranteed and erratic electricity supply – please bring a torch.

1 July | Monday

Historic Kaesong and the Joint Security Area  (*Please note that due to the current political situation and recent chenges, it is our understanding that visits to Panmunjom and the JSA as well as to the Concrete Wall is not possible at least until further notice. If that is the case at the time of our vist we will visit UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Kaesong as well a ginseng factory .)

• Kaesong Korean Stamp Exhibition Hall  | Store selling stamps, postcards, local ginseng , souvenirs, art, and more! One of the best postcard collections in the country and friendly staff.  
• Traditional Royal Korean Lunch ( pangsanggi )   | A meal made of 12 dishes served in brass bowls fit for the kings of old. The more dishes, the more distinguished the guest! Traditional Korean 'sweet meat soup' is an option here ( 5 EUR ).
• Sonjuk Bridge | Small stone bridge built in 1290, which in 1392 was the site of the assassination of the last loyal Koryo Dynasty minister Jong Mong Ju by a son of Ri Song Gye (founder of the next, and final, dynasty). This bloody act extinguished the Koryo which had ruled over Korea for 474 years and is said to have left a permanent mark on the bridge that can be seen to this day.  
• Drive back to Pyongyang . A 3-hour drive.  
• Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum and USS Pueblo  | We’ll tour this world-class museum led by a local museum guide. Renovated in 2012 and its exhibits of Korean War from the DPRK perspective containing artifacts, documents, photos, and lifelike dioramas. The exterior grounds house the War Victory Monument and displays of Korean People’s Army Hero Equipment and captures equipment from the US military, including the spyship USS Pueblo . Central to the understanding of the country today and highlight of the trip.  
• Mansugyo Beer Bar | A beer bar serving seven types of beer. Popular with locals after work and on weekends. Best place to drink pints with local people.

Evening walk on Ryomyong Street  | Pyongyang's newest futuristic neighbourhood.

Overnight:  Yanggakdo International Hotel, Pyongyang

2 July | Tuesday

Drive to Hamhung

• Drive east across the width of the peninsula before heading north to   Hamhung , the second largest city of the DPRK and major centre of industry. A 7 to 8-hour drive.

Stop by Sinpyong Lake Guesthouse to stretch your legs at this lakeside teahouse beneath rocky crags.

• Ulim Waterfall for a picnic lunch  | Hidden amongst the mountains on the road to Wonsan, ‘Echo’ Waterfall is a scenic stopover to enjoy lunch, stretch your legs, or go for a dip in the pool beneath.
• Tongbong Co-operative Farm  | Local farm in the outskirts of Hamhung. View the machinery barn, a local home, and the farm shop to buy some locally made products.

Home of Ri Song Gye  | Home of the first king of the Ri Dynasty (1392-1910) who extinguished the Koryo Dynasty, only to be then ousted by his own son. A traditional hall and pavilion and associated naughty stories of the former king’s retirement years – some not appropriate for the youth!

Overnight:  Majon Beach Guesthouse , Hamhung  |   A beachside holiday compound with basic but comfortable chalets. Rooms have heated floors but no running water. Bring a torch! There is a main building with restaurant, bar, billiards, table-tennis, bookshop, and Korean karaoke.

3 July | Wednesday

Hamhung and Wonsan AM

• Hungnam Fertiliser Factory  | Massive chemical-industrial plant producing various kinds of fertilisers. Tour of the plant control room, production facilities, and packing plant – just don’t light up next to the Ammonium Nitrate!

Hamhung Grand Theatre and Central Square  | Exterior view of the DPRK’s largest theatre on the city’s central square.

Tonghung Revolutionary Site | Hillside park with statues of the DPRK leadership overlooking Hamhung city centre and Songchon River. A presentation of flowers is customary.

• Drive south to  Wonsan , a major port city on the East Sea of Korea.  A 2.5 - 3-hour drive .  
• Wonsan Agricultural University  | The DPRK’s premier agricultural university set among beautiful hillside scenery. Tour the grounds and the neo-Romanesque teaching hall, originally built by Germans living in the area in the early 20th century.
• Songdowon International Schoolchildren’s   Camp   |   A classic socialist summer camp where Korean and international children can spend two weeks learning socialist values and teamwork. Tour the recently renovated dormitories, aquarium, birdhouse, gymnasium, and more!  
• Wonsan City Centre and Docks | Central square and ship terminal in downtown Wonsan. The Mangyongbong-92 ferry/cargo ship which one shuttled Koreans living in Japan back and forth across the East Sea of Korea is moored here.  
• Jangdok Island and Lighthouse  | Take a stroll on the breakwater to a small island in the middle of Wonsan harbour ( 1 EUR/USD entry fee ).

Overnight:  Dongmyong Hotel , Wonsan  | Waterfront hotel with stunning seaside views of Wonsan Harbor. Limited hours of hot water, bar, billiards, ping-pong, barber shop, beauty salon, dry sauna, and indoor seawater swimming pool.

4 July | Thursday

Mt. Kumgang, the 'Diamond Mountain'

• Kangwon Province Art Gallery | Small art exhibition selling artwork by local artists, where you can purchase paintings.  
• Drive south along the East Sea coast to the scenic  Mt. Kumgang , the ‘Diamond Mountain’ noted in East Asian history and famous in Korean legends. Home of some of Korea’s most spectacular natural landscapes and best hiking.  A 2.5 - 3-hour drive .  
• Sokwang Temple | Remains of a Buddhist temple established dating back to the late-14th century and associated with the dream that predicted the fall of the Koryo Dynasty. A historic and haunting place set in a serene mountain valley with stream. 
• Samil Lagoon  | A charming green-water coastal lagoon lined by pine forests. Named for the ‘three-day’ stay (sam-il) of a king in days-gone-by to take in the full beauty of the area. 

Overnight:  Kumgangsan Hotel , Mt. Kumgang  |   A very comfortable, clean and well equipped hotel. Bar, billiards, massage and a great terrace with barbecue options.

5 July |  Friday

Mt. Kumgang hiking and drive back to Pyongyang with stops along the way. AM

• Hiking in the Mt Kumgang area | ‘The Diamond Mountain’ – a series of peaks and canyons rising above Korea’s eastern seaboard and regarded since time immemorial as one of the most scenic regions in East Asia. An 8 km (round-trip) hike to a scenic ‘Nine-Dragons’ waterfall will take us through forests, along mountain streams and by emerald pools.
• Drive back up the coast to Wonsan  with a rest stop at Lake Sinjung.  
• Continue driving to  Pyongyang   (approx 4 hours drive)  with a stop at   Masik Pass Ski Resort , the DPRK’s largest ski resort. Opened in 2013, Masik Pass features nine main runs, two beginner slopes, and a lodge with full amenities.  
• Monument to the Party Foundation | Iconic structure featuring the hammer, sickle, writing brush which make up the emblem of the Worker’s Party of Korea and represent workers, farmers, and intellectuals.  
• Delicious farewell dinner.

Overnight |   Yanggakdo Hotel, Pyongyang

6 July  | Saturday

• Flight departure from Pyongyang on Air Koryo Flight JS 151 at 08:30 with scheduled arrival at Beijing Capital Airport (PEK) Terminal 2 at 09:50.
• Train departure by train to Beijing at 10:25 with transfer in Dandong. The scheduled arrival is to Beijing Station on Sunday, 7 July at 08:40. For this tour the default option is hard sleeper (six beds per berth).

Transport | Train and Flights to North Korea (Standard)

This tour travels between Beijing-Pyongyang by train each way in a hard-sleeper carriage (6 bunks per compartment). The train journey takes 24 hours with a transfer at the city of Dandong. One-way or round-trip flights are also available. The flight takes around 90 minutes. For an extra 199 EUR you can upgrade to a one-way flight. A round-trip ticket costs an additional 299 EUR.

Visit the DPRK border town of Sinuiju

If you're heading back to Beijing by train this option lets you get off for an overnight in Dongrim before the next day's tour of Sinuiju — the border city with China. Spend an extra 24 hours in the DPRK seeing the sites of North Pyongan province. You will then continue on through to Beijing.

Insurance (7 to 9 nights)

• Return train Beijing – Pyongyang – Beijing with transfers at Dandong
• All meals on the tour apart from the meals on the train
• Hotel accommodation
• Koryo Tours tour leader
• Two local Korean guides, and a driver per group
• North Korean visa fee 60 EUR
• Optional Air Koryo flights (one-way: 199 EUR; round-trip: 299EUR)
• Optional single room supplement (40 EUR per night)
• Entry tickets for special events if applicable – for example Pyongyang Circus (approx. 20 EUR per person)
• Sinuiju Extension: RMB 50 for the bus across the bridge to Dandong to be paid on the spot to the local guides

Groups will be in the experienced hands of two or three local Korean guides and an experienced Koryo Tours tour leader . Please note that when on tour your day-to-day itinerary may differ slightly to what is advertised above. Your tour leader will ensure, however, that everything available at the time is covered, and replacement options are provided where needed. We will also add in extras when there is time (such as a visit to a local bar or amusement park).

We visit North Korea regularly so know all the best places to go, and how to make the most of your days there to guarantee the experience of a lifetime. After the tour, we will send out a list of all participants' emails so you can keep in touch, swap photos etc. If you do not wish to be on this list then please let us know.

July 2024 — 2 tours

August 2024 — 3 tours, september 2024 — 6 tours, october 2024 — 2 tours, november 2024 — 1 tour, december 2024 — 2 tours, january 2025 — 2 tours, february 2025 — 2 tours, march 2025 — 1 tour, april 2025 — 5 tours, next tour departure dates, east pyongyang.

As seen from the top of the Juche Tower - this is a mainly residential district

Mass Dance - Pyongyang

Mass Dances are held on all major holidays. particpants number from 3000 to 50,000. Tourists can even join in!

Ryugyong Hotel - Pyongyang

Iconic 105-storey building towering over the capital. Koryo Tours have even been to the top of this!

Farming - East Coast

Korea is mainly mountains but has farmland too - a trip to the countryside gives a sense of what rural life is like

Youth Funfair - Pyongyang

A great place to visit in the evening, popular with locals and with all Italian-made rides

Fishing Village - East Coast

Bounded by seas to east and west the villages along the coasts are mainly populated by fishermen catching all manner of seafood

Kwangbok Street - Pyongyang

One of Pyongyang's famous mega-highways. with a dozen lanes accommodating far more cars than ever need to use it

Reunification Monument

On the road from the capital heading south - this monument symbolises ongoing hopes for peaceful reunification of the Korean peninsula

People's Theatre - Pyongyang

Home of the famous Moranbong Band - the DPRK's iconic rock/pop/ensemble

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Update April 12, 2024

Information for u.s. citizens in the middle east.

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Learn About Your Destination

While Abroad

Emergencies

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North Korea (Democratic People's Republic of Korea)

Travel Advisory July 24, 2023

North korea - level 4: do not travel.

Reissued with obsolete COVID-19 page links removed.

Do not travel to North Korea due to  the continuing serious risk of arrest and long-term detention of U.S. nationals.  Exercise increased caution to North Korea due to  the critical threat of wrongful detention.

• All U.S. passports are invalid for travel to, in, or through the DPRK unless specially validated for such travel under the authority of the Secretary of State. 
• Special validations are granted only in very limited circumstances. More information on how to apply for the special validation is available  here .

The U.S. government is unable to provide emergency services to U.S. citizens in North Korea as it does not have diplomatic or consular relations with North Korea. Sweden serves as the protecting power for the United States in North Korea, providing limited emergency services. The North Korean government routinely delays or denies Swedish officials access to detained U.S. citizens.

Due to risks to civil aviation operating within or in the vicinity of North Korea, the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) has issued a Notice to Air Missions (NOTAM) and/or a Special Federal Aviation Regulation (SFAR). For more information U.S. citizens should consult the  Federal Aviation Administration’s Prohibitions, Restrictions and Notices .

Read the  country information page  for additional information on travel to North Korea.

If you receive a special validation to travel to North Korea:

• Draft a will and designate appropriate insurance beneficiaries and/or power of attorney.
• Discuss a plan with loved ones regarding care/custody of children, pets, property, belongings, non-liquid assets (collections, artwork, etc.), funeral wishes, etc.
• Visit our website for  Travel to High-Risk Areas .
• Enroll in the  Smart Traveler Enrollment Program  ( STEP ) to receive Alerts and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
• Follow the Department of State on  Facebook  and  Twitter .
• Visit the CDC page for the latest  Travel Health Information  related to your travel.
• Prepare a contingency plan for emergency situations. Review the  Traveler’s Checklist .

Special Passports

*U.S. passports are not valid for travel to, in, or through North Korea, unless they are specially validated by the Department of State. See here for how to apply special passport to travel to North Korea. 

Quick Facts

Embassies and consulates.

• The Department strongly urges U.S. citizens not to go to North Korea/the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK) due to the serious risk of arrest and long-term detention. 
• North Korean authorities, under North Korea’s system of law enforcement, impose unduly harsh sentences--including for actions that in the United States would not be considered crimes. 
• They also threatened U.S. citizens with being treated in accordance with the “wartime law” of the DPRK.

See Travel Advisory for North Korea .

Sweden as Protecting Power :  Since the United States does not maintain diplomatic or consular relations with North Korea, the U.S. government has no means to provide normal consular services to its citizens:

• Sweden serves as the protecting power for Canada, Australia, and the United States, providing limited emergency consular services. 
• North Korea still routinely delays or denies consular access to U.S. citizens, even when requested by the Swedish Embassy in Pyongyang and despite North Korea and the United States both being signatories to the Vienna Convention on Consular Relations .

Embassy of Sweden Pyongyang

Munsu-Dong District Pyongyang Democratic People's Republic of Korea Telephone: +46 8 405 10 00 (main switchboard) Emergency Contact at the Embassy of Sweden in Pyongyang: +46 8 405 50 05 

[email protected]

Department of State Emergency Contact:  24/7 from within the United States 1-888-407-4747 / from outside the United States 1-202-501-4444.

U.S. Embassy Beijing

No. 55 An Jia Lou Road Chaoyang District, Beijing 100600 China Telephone: +(86)(10) 8531-4000 Emergency After-Hours Telephone: +(86)(10) 8531-4000 Fax: +(86)(10) 8531-3300 [email protected]

Destination Description

Learn about the U.S. relationship to countries around the world.

Entry, Exit and Visa Requirements

U.S. passports are not valid for travel into, in, or through the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK, North Korea) due to the serious and mounting risk of arrest and long-term detention of U.S. citizens in North Korea.  Those traveling on U.S. passports in North Korea should have already departed North Korea. Those who wish to travel to North Korea on a U.S. passport after this time must obtain a special validation in a limited validity passport under 22 C.F.R. 51.64 , which will be granted only under very limited circumstances. U.S. citizens and non-U.S. citizen nationals abroad can apply for this special validation at the nearest U.S. Embassy or Consulate.

With a special validation to enter North Korea in a limited passport: one to three months validity to enter North Korea. If you enter and depart North Korea through China, six months validity on your passport with multiple entry/exit visas for China. Note: you cannot enter North Korea through the Demilitarized Zone from South Korea.

If you enter North Korea without a special validation:  the Department of State can revoke your passport for misuse under 22 C.F.R. 51.62(a)(2). Further, you may be subject to felony prosecution under 18 U.S.C. 1544 for misuse of a U.S. passport.

Where to apply for a DPRK visa :  DPRK Embassy in Beijing, China or in any country that has diplomatic relations with North Korea.

The Embassy of the Democratic People's Republic of Korea in Beijing:

No. 11, Ritan Bei Lu, Jianguomen Wai, Chaoyang District Beijing, China 100600 Telephone:  (86-10) 6532-6639 (Visa Office) Telephone:  (86-10) 65312-1186 Facsimile:  (86-10) 6532-6056

If you reside in the United States, inquire through the DPRK Mission to the UN whether your request for a DPRK visa will be approved before you leave the United States for China:

The Permanent Representative of the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea to the United Nations 820 Second Avenue New York, NY 10017 Telephone:  (212) 972-3105 Facsimile:  (212) 972-3154

If you reside in a country with diplomatic relations with the DPRK, ask the DPRK embassy in that country for visa advice.

If you try to enter North Korea without required travel documents : you may be denied entry, fined, detained, arrested, or imprisoned.

If you plan to enter and depart North Korea through China without multiple Chinese visas in your passport or with Chinese visas that expire before you depart North Korea, you may not be able to exit North Korea .

HIV/AIDS:  The U.S. Department of State is unaware of any HIV/AIDS entry restrtictions for visitors to or foreign residents of North Korea.

Find information on dual nationality , prevention of international child abduction and customs regulations on our websites.

Safety and Security

Please see the sections on “Local Laws and Special Circumstances” and “Criminal Penalties.” 

Crime: North Korea does not release crime statistics. Petty thefts have been reported at the airport in Pyongyang.

Do not buy counterfeit and/or pirated goods, even if they are widely available. The purchase of counterfeit and pirated goods is illegal in the United States and may be illegal in North Korea.

See the  Department of State  and the  FBI pages for information on scams.

Victims of Crime: Report the crime to your local host/liaison and contact the Embassy of Sweden for assistance. Your local host/liaison should contact the local authorities on your behalf.

Lost or Stolen Passports :

If your passport is lost or stolen in North Korea, you will need to contact the Embassy of Sweden in Pyongyang, U.S. Protecting Power, for assistance in reaching out to a U.S. Embassy or Consulate and obtaining a replacement passport. You will also need a replacement visa for China.

Please see our information for victims of crime , including possible victim compensation programs in the United States .

Tourism:  Individuals cannot use a U.S. passport to travel to, in, or through North Korea without a special validation from the Department of State. Special Validations are granted only if it is in the US national interest to do so. Tourists are considered to be participating in activities at their own risk. Emergency response and subsequent appropriate medical treatment is not available in-country. U.S. citizens are encouraged to purchase medical evacuation insurance. See our webpage for more information on insurance providers for overseas coverage .

Local Laws & Special Circumstances

Arrest Notification: If you are arrested or detained, ask police or prison officials to notify the Embassy of Sweden immediately . See our webpage for further information

Educate yourself about North Korean law . The North Korea legal system is an instrument of state power and not an independent branch of the government.  Protections guaranteed under the U.S. legal system do not apply, and your U.S. passport does not confer special status. Your local host/liaison may be able to provide useful guidance. However, do not assume your host will provide assistance to you if you are arrested, or that any information you shared with your host will not be turned over to North Korean authorities.

Criminal acts unique to North Korea:

• Showing disrespect (both physically and verbally) to the country’s former leaders, Kil Il Sung or Kim Jong Il, or the country’s current leader, Kim Jong Un including but not limited to tampering with or mishandling materials bearing their names or images such as money, newspapers, or political slogans in Korean
• Entering North Korea without proper travel documentation
• Possessing material, printed or digital including e-book readers, DVDs, USB drives, documents, literature, audio and video files that is critical of or hostile to North Korea
• Proselytizing or carrying out religious activities, including activities that may be construed as such, like leaving behind religious materials, either intentionally or unintentionally
• Engaging in unsanctioned political activities
• Unauthorized interacting with North Koreans
• Taking unauthorized photographs
• Having unauthorized conversations with North Koreans
• Traveling without authorization even for short distances
• Exchanging currency with an unauthorized vendor
• Shopping at stores not designated for foreigners
• Bringing pornography into the country

No Expectation of Privacy: 

• All electronic and multimedia devices including USB drives, CDs, DVDs, mobile phones, tablets, laptops, Internet browsing histories, and cookies are subject to search for banned content.
• Personal possessions in hotel rooms may be searched.
• If  DPRK authorities permit you to keep your mobile phone when you enter the country, it will not function unless you use the DPRK mobile service, which will enable DPRK authorities to monitor your calls.  GPS-trackers and satellite phones are not allowed.
• A host or minder will keep track of you.
• Removing or tampering with political slogans and signs or pictures of political leaders.

Criminal Penalties:  At least 16 U.S. citizens have been detained in North Korea in the past ten years. While in North Korea, you are subject to North Korean laws.  If you violate North Korean laws, even unwittingly, you may be:

• Held in isolation without charges for lengthy periods of time,
• Interrogated without counsel,
• Compelled to draft public confessions,
• Sentenced, and
• Sent to a labor camp for years . 

Some laws are also prosecutable in the United States, regardless of local law.  For examples, see our website on crimes against minors abroad and the Department of Justice website.

SPECIAL CIRCUMSTANCES

Press:  North Korea officials watch journalists closely to prevent them from unauthorized conversations with North Koreans or questioning the policies, actions, or public statements of North Korea’s leadership.

• North Korea has confiscated objectionable material from foreign journalists. 
• Journalists who engaged in activities that challenged the regime have been deported, arrested, or detained to face criminal charges. 
• For additional information on the lack of freedom of information in North Korea, see the Department of State’s Human Rights Report for North Korea .

U.S. Government Economic Sanctions Against North Korea:  North Korea remains one of the most heavily sanctioned countries in the world.

• The government of North Korea and the Workers’ Party of Korea are blocked persons, and U.S. citizens may generally not engage in transactions with them or with their property.  
• Most exports to North Korea are subject to licensing by the Commerce Department’s Bureau of Industry and Security.
• The importation and exportation of goods, services, and technology from or to North Korea are generally prohibited unless authorized by the Office of Foreign Assets Control and, for exports or goods, the Department of Commerce Bureau of Industry and Security.

UN Security Council statements November 17, 2017:  For information on the United States and the United Nations Security Council concern regarding escalating tensions from the recent  missile launch, and other activities prohibited by United Nations Security Council Resolutions, see UN website .

Customs Regulations:  North Korean authorities may seize documents, literature, audio and video files, computer equipment, DVDs, USB drives and other digital media, and letters deemed by North Korean officials to be pornographic or intended for religious proselytizing or subversive activities .   Please see our information on customs regulations .  

Dual Nationality:   North Korea does not recognize dual nationality.  If you are of Korean heritage – even if you are a U.S. citizen – you could be subject to ten years of military service in North Korea and taxes on foreign source income.  Please see our information on Information on Dual Nationality .

Faith-Based Travelers:  See the Department of State’s International Religious Freedom Report .

LGBTI Travelers:  There are no legal restrictions on same-sex sexual relations because same-sex sexual relations are considered a foreign phenomenon.  DPRK claims that there are no LGBTI in the country. It would therefore not be possible to organize an LGBTI event here.

Additionally, any open demonstration of affection is frowned upon, as well as between opposite sex couples.

See our LGBTI Travel Information page and section 6 of the Department of State's Human Rights report for further details.

Persons with Mobility Issues . Hotels and medical facilities are generally accessible. However, pavements/curbs are high.

Students:  See our Students Abroad page and FBI travel tips .

Women Travelers:  See our travel tips for Women Travelers .

If you have medical problems, do not travel to North Korea:

• Medical facilities in the DPRK lack resources and electricity.
• Medical personnel have inadequate or outdated skills.  
• Hospitals in Pyongyang can perform basic examinations and lifesaving measures, but functioning x-ray facilities are not generally available. 
• Avoid surgery.  
• If you have an accident outside Pyongyang, transport back to the capital can be lengthy and without medical assistance.  
• Hospitals will expect immediate U.S. dollar cash payment for medical treatment .
• You cannot use credit cards or checks in the DPRK.

Carry your regular medication with you along with the doctor’s prescription:  DPRK Customs says that most prescription medication may be brought into the country with no restrictions.  

Medical Evacuations: Local DPRK hosts are often not aware of options available for medical evacuations and might claim that no such options exist.  

• Insist on contacting the Embassy of Sweden, which will attempt to arrange flight clearances for air ambulances performing emergency medical evacuations.  
• Costs for medical air evacuation vary, but according to SOS International, an evacuation from Pyongyang to Beijing averages approximately USD 40,000 including medical personnel (1 doctor and 1 nurse), the aircraft, and clearance costs.
• The General Bureau of the Koryo Civil Aviation of the DPRK says that it provides around-the-clock service and that requests for air clearance will be granted within 24 hours.  
• If a U.S. citizen with a medical emergency is in Pyongyang, the Embassy of Sweden can usually arrange a medical evacuation to Beijing in one day.  If the patient is located outside Pyongyang, it will take longer.  
• Medical evacuation by regularly scheduled airlines can be arranged, but very few flights operate from Pyongyang to Beijing (Air Koryo and Air China), Shenyang (Air Koryo), or Vladivostok (Air Koryo).  
• Air Koryo flights go to Shanghai only on a charter basis in the tourist season (April-October).  
• In order to transit China, Chinese visas for injured foreigners and any escorts must be obtained prior to the evacuation from North Korea. Even in the case of a medical emergency, transit visas may take several days to arrange.  

Evacuation across the DMZ to South Korea is not allowed.

Vaccinations:  Information on vaccinations and other health precautions, such as safe food and water precautions and insect bite protection are located at the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention’s hotline for international travelers at 1-877-FYI-TRIP (1-877-394-8747) or via the  CDC Internet site.  For information about outbreaks of infectious diseases abroad, consult the  World Health Organization's (WHO) website . If you have special dietary requirements, you are advised to bring food with you to North Korea, as the restaurants available to foreigners have limited menus that may not meet your dietary needs.

Companies that may be able to arrange evacuation services include, but are not limited to, those listed below. You may wish to contact these or other emergency medical assistance providers for information about their ability to provide medical evacuation insurance and/or assistance for travelers to North Korea.

International SOS Telephone (inside China):  400-818-0767 Telephone (outside China): (86-10) 6462-9100 United Healthcare Global Assistance Telephone:  (U.S.) (410) 453-6330 Telephone:  (Toll free within China) 10-8888-800-527-0218 Telephone:  (outside China) (86-10) 6595-8510)

You can find useful information on medical emergencies abroad, including overseas insurance programs, on the  Department of State's Bureau of Consular Affairs website.

Also, see our extensive tips and advice on  Traveling Safely Abroad .

Bills - We do not pay medical bills . Be aware that U.S. Medicare does not apply overseas: The DPRK says U.S. citizens are accountable for costs associated with detention or incarceration in North Korea such as lodging, food, telephone calls, and medical assistance (hospital bills). 

Make sure your health insurance plan provides coverage overseas.  Most care providers overseas only accept cash payments. See our webpage for more information on insurance providers for overseas coverage . 

We strongly recommend supplemental insurance (our webpage) to cover medical evacuation. Carry prescription medication in original packaging, along with your doctor’s prescription. 

Major country-specific health concerns:   Tuberculosis is an increasingly serious health concern in North Korea.  For further information, please consult the CDC's information on TB.

Be up-to-date on all vaccinations recommended by the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.

For further health information, go to:

• World Health Organization
• U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC)

Travel and Transportation

TRAFFIC SAFETY AND ROAD CONDITIONS: Road conditions and driving habits in a foreign country can differ significantly from those in the United States. The information below concerning North Korea is provided for general reference only. You are not allowed to drive in North Korea unless you hold a valid DPRK driver’s license.  Bicycles are unavailable for rental or purchase. Please refer to our Road Safety information.

AVIATION SAFETY  OVERSIGHT:  As there is no direct commercial air service between the United States and North Korea, the U.S. Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) has not assessed North Korea’s Civil Aviation Authority for compliance with International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) aviation safety standards. Further information may be found on the FAA's safety assessment page.

As a result of concerns arising from unannounced missile launch activities and GPS navigation systems interference and/or disruption, the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) has issued a Prohibition and Advisory notice to U.S. airmen and operators. The FAA has issued Special Federal Aviation Regulation (SFAR) 79 which prohibits U.S. civil aviation from flying in the Pyongyang Flight Information Region (FIR) west of 132 degrees east longitude, and the FAA has advised those flying in and around the Pyongyang (FIR)  east of 132 degrees east longitude to be aware of possible GPS interruptions.  For more information, U.S. citizens should consult the Federal Aviation Administration’s Prohibitions, Restrictions, and Notices .

MARITIME SAFETY OVERSIGHT:  Mariners planning travel in the vicinity of North Korea should check for U.S. maritime advisories and alerts at the U.S. Department of Transportation’s  Maritime Security Communications with Industry WebPortal . Information may also be posted to the  U.S. Coast Guard homeport website  and as a broadcast warning on the  National Geospatial-Intelligence Agency’s website .

For additional travel information

• Enroll in the  Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP)  to receive security messages and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
• Call us in Washington, D.C. at 1-888-407-4747 (toll-free in the United States and Canada) or 1-202-501-4444 (from all other countries) from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., Eastern Standard Time, Monday through Friday (except U.S. federal holidays).
• See the  State Department’s travel website  for the  Worldwide Caution  and  Travel Advisories .
• Follow us on  Twitter  and  Facebook .
• See  traveling safely abroad  for useful travel tips.

For additional IPCA-related information, please see the  International Child Abduction Prevention and Return Act (ICAPRA)  report.

Travel Advisory Levels

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