Skyline of Santiago with the Gran Torre, Santiago, Chile, South America

Getty Images/Robert Harding World Imagery

Surprising, cosmopolitan, energetic, sophisticated and worldly, Santiago is a city of syncopated cultural currents, madhouse parties, expansive museums and top-flight restaurants. No wonder 40% of Chileans call the leafy capital city home.

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Attractions

Must-see attractions.

Vitral en el techo del Centro Cultural Gabriela Mistral (GAM)

Centro Gabriela Mistral

This striking cultural and performing-arts center – named for Chilean poet Gabriela Mistral, the first Latin American woman to win the Nobel Prize in…

birdeye view of Andes and Santiago, Chile

Cerro San Cristóbal

The best views over Santiago are from the peaks and viewpoints of the Parque Metropolitano, better known as Cerro San Cristóbal. At 722 hectares, the park…

Sign outside La Chascona, one of Pablo Neruda's homes.

La Chascona

When poet Pablo Neruda needed a secret hideaway to spend time with his mistress Matilde Urrutia, he built La Chascona (loosely translated as 'Messy Hair')…

Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos Humanos

Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos Humanos

Opened in 2010, this striking museum isn't for the faint of heart: the exhibits expose the terrifying human rights violations and large-scale …

Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino

Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino

Exquisite pottery from most major pre-Columbian cultures is the backbone of Santiago's best museum, the Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino. As well as…

Museo Ralli

Museo Ralli

This little-visited museum on a quiet residential street in Vitacura boasts a stunning collection of contemporary Latin American art mixed in with…

Palacio de la Moneda, Presidential Palace.

Palacio de la Moneda

Chile's presidential offices are in the Palacio de la Moneda. The ornate neoclassical building was designed by Italian architect Joaquín Toesca in the…

Bahai House of Worship Temple in Santiago, Chile.

Templo Baha'i

This striking shell-shaped temple in the Andean foothills is a tranquil spot to relax – even for those who don't ascribe to the Baha'í faith – with an…

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A Complete Guide to Santiago Chile for Travelers and Nomads

For nomads and travelers wandering South America, it’s part of the goal of travel to explore and experience all of the highlights and significant locations on the continent. As you research where to go and what to do in South America, it’s impossible to miss the potential stop of Chile’s capital of Santiago de Chile.

Compared to its sister city capitals in Latin America, Santiago de Chile is a modern, developed city with great infrastructure, an equally rich restaurant scene which leans towards diverse international cuisine over local cuisine, and seemingly malls and shopping centers, which make it a great place for living every day life. Within a couple hours’ ride, rich outdoor experiences await. Out of the windows of many Santiago homes you can see the ridgeline of the towering Andes, and the tallest mountains outside of Asia. With that kind of beautiful terrain come opportunities to hike, bike, whitewater raft, and explore the outdoors by summer, and ski or snowboard epic lines through snow by winter – from Mountain Aconcagua (the tallest mountain outside of Asia), to the Andean mountain range, to the Casablanca Valley wine country, to epic Patagonia.

However, you won’t find strong “indigenous culture” in Santiago beyond the museums and the whole of the cities architecture, views, and vibe feel more European than Latin American, and it can be hard to find anything that is more “authentic” over “modern” the quality of life in Santiago is very high. The cost of living is admittedly high compared to other Latin America cities (nearly double). Last, though there are countless restaurants, you’ll struggle to find any that you won’t find better (and cheaper) in Peru and Colombia.

So, why go to Santiago? To rest between, enjoy modern comforts, and proceed to one of a kind outdoor experiences.

Ultimately Santiago is a comfortably modern capital that can be pricey and seemingly over commercial for what one typically expects from South America, but exists as an efficient gateway to some of the world’s most beautiful places and a place to rest between experiences.

Nomads will enjoy easy access to tech and major brands, strong internet, and good infrastructure.

Travelers may enjoy the chance to have some posh cocktails in cool cafes and good food (fast food and international food) before stocking up on outdoor gear and proceeding to the lake districts in Patagonia

Over the past four months, I’ve wandered Argentina and Chile as a traveler and nomad hunting out the best places to see, experience, work, and relax. With the excitement of beautiful Argentina, specifically Buenos Aires and Mendoza, in the rear view mirror, I wanted to explore and map out new potential destinations for nomads to live and work between adventures – and the modern and shiny Santiago de Chile is a great potential place to stop, work, and recover.

Over the past month I’ve wandered Santiago’s many streets, neighborhoods, parks, markets, malls, and museums to scout out first hand everything you need to know to quickly settle into the city, and where to plan to go next to maximize your time in Chile.

Read on to learn how to make the most of your time to enjoy, work, and explore in Santiago de Chile.

  • Why Santiago: Outdoor adventures and modern infrastructure

Central Santiago

Bellavista, patronato, and recoletta, bellas artes and lastarria.

  • Barrio Italia
  • Barrio Brasil + Barrio Yungay

Providencia and Las Condes

Other barrios to know in santiago, wine regions near santiago available for tours, essential sights to see in santiago, where to stay.

  • Where to Eat and Drink

Santiago Cost of Living: Much higher than most of Latin America

Getting around: metro, uber, and cabify, where next in chile after santiago.

  • Cheap flights to South America through Santiago airport
  • Other Recommendations Instead of Santiago

santiago de chile travel guide

Why Santiago, Chile: Outdoor adventures for travelers, and great, modern infrastructure for Nomads and Remote Workers

As a result of earthquakes, military dictatorships, a campaign for free markets, capitalism, and modernity, and a strategic cleansing of arts and culture**, Santiago feels less “Latin American” than any capital south of the United States. Combined with the high cost of living, Santiago doesn’t deliver the charm and experience to warrant more than 3 days in Santiago as a traveler, in tradeoff for less time anywhere else in South America.

However, Santiago is a gateway to some beautiful cities (like Valpariaso) and outdoor experiences (like Torres del Paine) that aren’t to be missed. Travelers considering Chile for the outdoor adventures may consider traveling south on the Argentine side to Bariloche, to save money on equally beautiful scenery.

Nomads and Remote workers on extended trips in South America may consider Santiago for focused work in a place with strong internet and good, modern infrastructure.

Highlight notes on why Chile (and why not Chile)

  • Santiago is a big, modern city. Thanks to earthquakes, older, historical buildings have been destroyed and replaced with modern (earthquake resistant) buildings and architecture, so architecture feels more like downtown Los Angeles than Latin America. This makes Santiago one of the less interesting Latin America capitals from a travel and exploration standpoint. You can visit most of Santiago’s highlights in just two days.
  • With the Santiago’s modernity comes very good Infrastructure, such as fast internet, well maintained roads and public streets, and large, flashy shopping centers. This modernity, that many places in South America lack, makes Santiago a solid option for focused remote work.
  • Chile’s position, sandwiched between 4000 miles of coast line and the Andean mountain range, and ending in Patagonia make the country a paradise for adventure sports – hiking, trekking, mountain biking, and more. What Santiago lacks in uniqueness, it makes up for in outdoor adventures.
  • Though coworking spaces exist, work-in café culture is much rare in Chile than Argentina and Colombia. You will find cafes less amenable to such, so plan backup options for where/how to work.
  • Due to Chile’s location, tourists rarely pass through Chile on the way to anywhere else, besides Patagonia and the outdoors. As a result, foreigners are a general rarity (other than economic migrants from neighboring countries) so white, Asian, or black people may get curious (yet benign) looks outside of Santiago’s capital
  • Santiago airport is one of the cheapest South America hubs to fly into, even if you are flying into Buenos Aires or Rio, and especially if you are trying to access remote locations ( learn more about flight hacking through Santiago here )

Santiago de Chile Nomad Scene: Not as strong as in other places in Latin America

Despite the amazing infrastructure in Santiago, and the very interesting program of Startup Chile , the foreign digital nomad scene in Santiago is emerging at best at the moment. Compared to hubs such as Buenos Aires and Medellin**, there is barely a sign of a digital nomad scene in Santiago and Chile as a whole at the moment. As such, don’t expect much nomad friendly infrastructure (co-working, co-living, work friendly cafes) beyond what you would find in a normal big city.

The most robust place to connect with other nomads and remote workers is the Chile Digital Nomads & Remote Workers Facebook group . Though it is a helpful group, the community’s small size reflects the size and activeness of the nomad community in Chile.

For co-working near home, be sure to stay in Central Santiago as most of the coworking space options are in Bellas Artes or near Barrio Italia.

Cowork Options

Co-Work Latam Monjitas

Co-Work Latam Bellet

  • https://maps.app.goo.gl/bNWuEUsLAdy5hjeM9
  • Startup Chile’s Coworking Space

LAUNCH Coworking Holley

  • https://maps.app.goo.gl/kZyNbgZuhE6EDbzY6

Hub Providencia

  • https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eg1Tn8kfrxytfnpJ9
  • Next to super chic Barrio Italia

Neighborhoods: Where to stay, where to eat, where to shop, and where to work

Santiago as a whole is generally very safe and modern, but understanding the different neighborhoods of the city will help you better pick where to stay and explore.

Central Santiago is the busiest district of Santiago and contains a few of our choice neighborhoods. Central Santiago is bordered by the Autopista Central, Rio Mapoche, and Almeda. Generally in this area, you will find lots of fast food restaurants (shawarmas, arepas, and standard food chains), government offices, and the banking district.

This area is home to the Mercado Central (great for seafood), National History Museum, Pre-Colombian Chilean Art Museum, Centro Cultural La Moneda, the active on weekends Plaza de Armas and a fun pedestrian street, and the Chilean National Library.

Bellavista and Patronato hug the hikable San Cristobal, are home to Pablo Naruda’s once home and now museum La Chascona**, and some of the best nightlife in Santiago. If you want to stay up until the early AM, come here. Also, if you craving Korean or Arabian cuisine visit El Patronato neighborhood within Recolleta.

In the eastern portion of Central Santiago, Bellas Artes and Lastarria are sandwiched between the very cool Cerro Santa Lucia park, and Parque Forestal as well as the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. Within a few blocks you will also find the Museum of Visual Arts and Gabriela Mistral Cultural Center (theater).

Barrio Italia: The coolest neighborhood in Santiago

Barrio Italia is a cool strip of streets in Santiago’s coolest neighborhood. Restored buildings and warehouses are now home to chic art shops, markets, breweries, and upscale cafes. On Sundays, you’ll find all of Santiago here. Weekdays, when everyone is at work, this neighborhood will your best place to find a coffee shop.

Barrio Italia is very much similar to the Palermo neighborhood of Buenos Aires

Keep in mind you’ll find some of the best cafes and upscale casual eating in Santiago here, but you will also find the priciest meals as well

Barrio Brasil + Barrio Yungay: Historic buildings and an authentic feel

Though you shouldn’t necessarily stay here, you should absolutely visit, to soak up some less modern and more authentic culture. While most of Santiago has undergone a modern facelift, these two barrios will give a very authentic feel. Just don’t hang around after dark.

The Beverly Hills of Santiago. This area, filled with all glass and extremely modern housing and well manicured green spaces is the most upscale part of Santiago. Here you’ll find the best (and most expensive) restaurants in Santiago as well as several shopping malls, such as Parque Arauco and Alto Las Condes.

  • Barrio Recoleta **
  • Independecia **
  • Casablanca Valley **
  • Maipo Valley **
  • Colchagua Valley **
  • Aconcagua Valley **

General: Most sights in Chile are plazas, buildings, museums, and neighborhoods

  • Mercado Central: Santiago’s fish market and your best bet for good, cheap ceviche
  • Mercado Tirso de Molina: Across the autopista from fish heavy mercado central, this market delivers a veggie market downstairs, and authentic food stalls from all over Latin America upstairs
  • La Vega Central de Santiago: Next to Mercado Tirso de Molina, this is Santiago’s main (and massive) vegetable market
  • Londres 38: A historical building and current museum formerly used as detention and torture center for opponents of the Augusto Pinochet dictatorship
  • Museum of Memory and Human Rights
  • Plaza de Armas (on a weekend): Large, beautiful, historic plaza adjacent to the National History Museum and the Metropolitan Cathedral of Santiago
  • Barrio Italia: The walkable streets of Avenida Italia, Girardi, and Condell are lined with cool cafes, chic shops, breweries, and restaurant, with some really cool restored architecture vibes
  • La Chascona: The preserved home and now museum of poet and activist-writer Pablo Naruda
  • Cerro San Cristobal: The seemingly towering hill overlooking Central Santiago, accessible by hiking trail and cable car
  • Cerro Sant Lucia and Hidalgo Castle: A pleasant park built on a hill adjacent to Lastarria, with a centerpiece of a castle built as a defense point for the city during the Chilean war for independence

Other Significant Sights and Museums in Santiago

  • Biblioteca Nacional de Chile
  • Catedral Metropolitana: Towering, decadent, and adjacent to Plaza de Armas
  • Centro Cultural Palacio La Moneda: A world class arts exhibition center
  • Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombiano
  • Museo de Arte Contemporareono
  • Museo de Artes Visuales
  • Museo de Historico Nacional
  • Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes
  • Museo Violeta Parra

Lastarria neighborhood will offer the cheapest AirBnB options that are accessible to everywhere in the city, while maintaining a decent budget. The neighborhood has a very “downtown, municipal” vibe with high rises, large apartment complexes, and plenty of AirBnB options

Barrio Italia is a great, walkable option with a more bohemian, residential feel, without the high rises and large apartment complexes. A handful of AirBnBs nearby may work, but a nice hostel is your best (and coziest) bet.

Providencia and Las Condes offer great upscale hotels and nice apartments on AirBnB, with the shopping and amenities that come from being in the Beverly Hills of Santiago.

Where to Eat

Santiago suffers from an interesting problem in that, while Santiago is home to some amazing restaurants, not much of the food is actually Chilean. Go in with that in mind, and you will find some tasty eats.

Additionally, because most of the food in Santiago you’ll find is foreign – Shawarma, Chinese, Indian, Colombian, Venezuelan, etc. – don’t expect the foodie experience that you may get in Lima, Peru or with beef in Argentina. Just understand the food will be objectively good, not necessarily Chilean, and (likely) expensive for Latin America.

Great Restaurants around Santiago

  • La Diana **
  • Salvador Cocina y Café **
  • Peumayen Ancestral Food : Amazing Chilean food
  • Chipe Libre : Awesome ceviche and pisco (local liquor) tastings
  • Bocanariz : Restaurant and wine Bar
  • El Diablito : Beer and chorillana
  • Le Tacón Tangobar & Bistró : Bar and Resto
  • Café Mosqueto : Good Coffee

Be warned that the cost of living in Chile is much higher than in the rest of South America, and even higher in Chile. However, if you are mindful of your budget and how you spend, you can avoid breaking the bank.

My research on cost of living by city puts the monthly cost of living in Santiago for an ex-pat at $1, 947 per month, and estimates monthly cost of living for nomads and slow travelers passing through at $2,433 to $2,920 per month.

My budget and spending experience in Santiago, Chile

As an anecdote, I nearly paid $11 for a simple plat of French fries in Barrio Italia over the weekend. On the other hand, an Uber across town (25 minutes away) was ~$6.50 and a basic movie ticket was $7. A coffee at Starbucks is $4.50 and a coffee at a normal coffee shop is $3 to $4.

Here are more costs from my trip.

  • Cheap, fast food (shawarmas, arepas, burgers) cost between $6.50 and $10.
  • Ceviche costs between $11 and $18 (in Barrio Italia).
  • A beer or pisco sour at a bar will cost $4 to $7.
  • My studio AirBnB in Lastarria is $1090 for the month
  • A day long wine tour to the Casablanca Vally will cost $190
  • A wine train and tasting to a nearby city will cost $60 round trip

Metro: Quick, cheap, reliable

Santiago’s well developed and maintained metro make the underground rail the best, most convenient, and most economical way to get around the city. Compared to rideshare via Uber and Cabify, including wait times, traveling by metro is almost just as fast, especially during rush hour.

To ride, simply head to the information kiosk (within the metro) and purchase a “BIP” card for 1,500 CLP. Rides will cost ~300 CLP per ride.

Use the directions with public transportation function** in Google Maps to get accurate routes and times around

Rideshare: Uber, Cabify

Rideshare is the best, quick way to get around the capital. For rides in Chile, I waited on average ~5 minutes for a ride to book, and paid between ~2,500 CLP and 7,000 CLP for rides

Where you should travel after Santiago depends largely on where you came from before Santiago, and what your interests are.

  • Valparaiso, Chile **
  • Patagonia: Puerto Montt 🡪 Bariloche **
  • Mendoza, Argentina **

Valparaiso, Chile

The port city and former financial center of Valparaiso 2 hours north of Santiago is the arguably more charming and enjoyable little sister to Santiago. This port city, known for its now artistic and Bohemian vibes, has a character more uniquely Chilean with lots to explore.

If your follow on travels don’t include Patagonia or Argentina, make your next stop Valparaiso**

To get to Valparaiso from Santiago**, there are several private buses available from the main bus terminals for the 2 hour ride. Recorrido.Cl ** is the best place to check those schedules. Additionally, you can check Rome2Rio for other options

Exploring Patagonia from the Chilean side: Puerto Montt 🡪 Bariloche

Patagonia is one of the most beautiful experiences in South America. If you plan to explore Volcanoes, fjords, the Tierra del Fuego (Land of Fire), and Torres del Paine National park, you will need to head south. From Santiago, either make your first stop Puerto Montt (or prettier Puerto Varas 20 minutes away).

For the 12 hour ride from Santiago to Puerto Montt, the best option is to travel by uber comfy “Salon Cama” seats by bus that lie flat. You can check buses and book through Recorrdio.Cl .

Mendoza, Argentina

For travelers that plan to explore Argentina next, consider hopping straight of the border, and the Andes, to the wine country of Mendoza, Argentina . Not only is Mendoza an excellent wine experience , the city is also on the Argentine path into Patagonia, with direct buses to Bariloche, and south to El Chalten, El Calafate, and Ushuaiia.

Read our full article sharing why “ Mendoza is a great underrated stop for your itinerary ”.

Cheap flights to South America through Santiago airport: A hidden perk to traveling Chile

One hidden perk of Santiago being so developed with fairly low import taxes are the cheap flights.

Santiago is an amazingly cheap airport in South America, given its remoteness and what is accessible around. When flying into Argentina, I often find it cheaper to fly into Santiago then to Buenos Aires, and the same for any of the surrounding cities. Much the same as Lima, Bogota, and Rio.

So, if you do need to book a cheap flight into South America, consider flying into Santiago, Chile, and hopping onward from there.

Click here to learn more about how to fly cheaply throughout South America using Santiago airport

Other Recommendations Instead of Chile

Whether the explanations here have deterred you, or you arrived and feel like Santiago de Chile just isn’t what you’re looking for, consider hopping to either of these cities instead.

However, if you haven’t arrived in Santiago yet, consider adding more time into your itinerary for one of these cities instead.

Great alternatives to Santiago de Chile:

  • Valparaiso, Chile: Charming, artful, and surrounded by some beautiful beaches, enroute to more beautiful places in Chile **
  • Cusco: Arguably one of the most authentic big cities in South America that bleeds culture and has an amazing local food scene as well as many beautiful sites and archeological digs nearby. A perfect place for rest and recovery **
  • Buenos Aires: Big, safe city to soak up a unique combination of Latin American and Italian/Spanish vibes against a wonderfully social backdrop**
  • Medellin : Just as refined as Santiago, magnitudes more vibrant and uniquely “Paisa,” plus, a short bus ride from Cartagena, Bogota, Santa Marta, Minca, and some other amazing places **
  • Quito: Equally quiet and conservative, but with an understated charm, while delivering just as much nature – volcanoes, mountains, hot springs, rain forests, etc. – easily accessible from Quito **

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Carlos is a nomad, slow traveler, and writer dedicated to helping others live abroad and travel better by using his 7+ years of experience living abroad and background as a management consultant and financial advisor to help other nomad and expats plot better paths for an international lifestyle. Click here to learn more about Carlos's story.

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Set on a wide plain near the foot of the Andes, Santiago boasts one of the most dazzling backdrops of any capital city on earth. The views onto the cordillera after a rainstorm clears the air are magnificent, especially in winter, when the snow-covered peaks rise behind the city like a giant white rampart against the blue sky.

Top things to do in Santiago

Cultural attractions, where to stay in santiago, where to eat out in santiago.

Visit Santiago and you’ll find a rapidly expanding metropolis of around seven million people, and though long in the shadow of Buenos Aires and Rio de Janeiro, Santiago has its own proud identity.

Santiago is divided into 32 autonomous comunas , most of them squat, flat suburbs stretching out from the centre. The historic centre, in contrast, is compact, manageable, and has a pleasant atmosphere. Part of the appeal comes from the fact that it’s so green: tall, luxuriant trees fill the main square, and there are numerous meticulously landscaped parks.

Tailor-made travel itineraries for Chile, created by local experts

Luxurious Chile - Atacama Desert & Easter Island

11 days  / from 4896 USD

Luxurious Chile - Atacama Desert & Easter Island

Explore two of Chile's extraordinary highlights: the Atacama desert with its salt flats and lagoons and Easter Island. The island is famous for its stone monoliths and source of mystery for many. Your stay will be complemented in the best hotels, making this trip even more special.

Chile Explored: From Santiago to Torres del Paine

10 days  / from 2650 USD

Chile Explored: From Santiago to Torres del Paine

The vast expanse of Patagonia is home to extreme landscapes, from jagged mountains, stark glaciers, clear blue lakes, and grassy fields. You will find them all in Torres del Paine, a huge contrast to the start of the trip in the historical, bustling city of Santiago.

Self-Drive Santiago, Wines & Lakes

14 days  / from 3800 USD

Self-Drive Santiago, Wines & Lakes

Discover the beauty of Chile independently in your own rental car. Start in Santiago before heading to Pucon, Huilo Huilo and Puerto Varas. As you'll be in your own car, you can plan each day at your liking - hikes, relaxing or cultural exploration? Decide spontaneously.

Increasingly becoming a destination in its own right – rather than simply the entry point into Chile – Santiago is a cultural, economic and historical hub, and the best place to get a handle on the country’s identity.

A list of what to do in Santiago is as varied and colourful as the country itself. Dipping into the city’s vibrant and constantly developing cultural scene and checking out its museums will really help you make the most of your time in this fascinating country.

  • Plaza de Armas Gaze at the colonial architecture surrounding Santiago’s lively central plaza – or sit on a bench and take in the hustle and bustle.
  • Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino This exquisite collection of artefacts from dozens of pre-Hispanic civilizations features fine tapestries, intricate ceramics and dazzling jewels.
  • Mercado Central and Feria Municipal La Vega Explore the city’s two main markets and sample a selection of excellent fresh fish and seafood.
  • Cerro San Cristóbal Ride the elevator to the top of this steep hill where, on a clear day, you have great views of the snowcapped Andes towering over the city.
  • Andean skiing Skiers and snowboarders will delight in the world-class ski areas near Santiago, including the world-famous Portillo resort.
  • Wine tour If you run out of things to do in Santiago, then consider a wine tour, many of which are within easy reach of some of Chile’s oldest wineries, several of which offer tours and tastings.
  • Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos Humanos Any Santiago travel guide worth their salt will usher you towards this museum, which is dedicated to remembering the victims of Chile’s dictatorship.
  • Trekking around Santiago It doesn’t take long to reach at least the foothills of the surrounding mountains if you want a walk that’s a bit more challenging than Cerro San Cristóbal without leaving town.
  • Museo Arqueológico Based in a lovely old house it has an impressive collection of pre-Columbian pottery, petroglyphs and skulls, and an astonishing mummy from the Atacama Desert.
  • Avenida Bellavista Found between Puente Pío Nono and Puente del Arzobispo, this market offers a string of workshops and salesrooms selling jewellery and other objects made of lapis lazuli.

Our city guide to Santiago wouldn’t be complete without a tick-list of cultural attractions. From art to architecture, via contemporary theatre and the odd book festival, Santiago has attractions to please even the most voracious culture vulture.

Palacio de La Moneda

Architecture buffs with love Santiago’s neoclassical presidential palace – still the official seat of government, which is one of Chile’s most famous buildings. There are four guided tours daily, lasting an hour.

Centro Cultural Palacio La Moneda

Within the palace, this flagship underground art gallery and cultural space has a huge modernist concrete central hall, which houses ever-changing exhibitions. It features an eclectic array of artwork, jewellery, pottery, textiles and photography from across Chile.

Catedral Metropolitana

Found on the west side of the Plaza de Armas, the Catedral Metropolitana is combination of Neoclassical and Baroque styles. It bears the mark of Joaquín Toesca, who was brought over from Italy in 1780 to oversee its completion.

Centro Gabriela Mistral

Visit Santiago’s most exciting cultural offering – a huge weathered steel edifice on the Alameda. GAM has a wide-ranging programme of contemporary theatre, dance, music, art and cinema.

Galeria Cultural Codelco

Copper is everywhere in the gleaming, appropriately burnished headquarters of the Corporacion Nacional del Cobre de Chile , the world’s largest producer of coppe. The small Galeria Cultural Codelco offers changing exhibitions.

Estación Mapocho

Just west of the Mercado Central is the immense stone-and-metal Estación Mapocho , built in 1912 to house the terminal of the Valparaíso–Santiago railway line. With the train service long discontinued, the station is now a cultural centre, housing exhibitions, plays and concerts.

Deciding where to stay during trip to Santiago is relatively easy as there’s a plenty of accommodation to suit most budgets, though really inexpensive places are scarce. Most of the city’s low-cost rooms are small, simple and sparsely furnished, often without a window but usually fairly clean; the many hostels with dorms make a good alternative.

There are numerous good mid-range hotels and B&Bs, plus several top-end options. Prices don’t fluctuate much, though a few hotels charge more November–February.

The best hotels and hostels in Santiago

Plaza de armas to the alameda.

Andes Hostel

Funky hostel with tidy four- and six-bed dorms, swish marble bathrooms, a roof terrace and a bar area with big-screen TV and a pool table.

Decent low-cost hotel offering a range of slightly old-fashioned rooms with TVs and private bathrooms; the older ones sometimes lack outside windows so unless pesos are really tight, opt for one in the newer annexe.

Barrio Lastarria

Although this lively neighbourhood is focused more on restaurants and bars than hotels, there are a handful of choices and the location is excellent.

Wedged between Parque Forestal and the Alameda, this smart boutique hotel with 1920s Art Deco features, such as the original mosaic tiles, was the tallest building in Chile when built in the 1920s and the first to have a lift, which is still in use.

Location is the USP here: the hotel overlooks Cerro Santa Lucia, and the Alameda is a couple of blocks away. The building has an unusual modernist shape, and the small rooms could do with a freshen up, but overall it’s a decent choice.

The western neighbourhoods

Bohemian Barrio Brasil, north of the Alameda, is a popular choice thanks to its supply of cool cafés, restaurants and bars.

This restored early twentieth-century townhouse is a cut above most other hostels, with beautiful, airy rooms (shared or en suite) that put many mid-range hotels to shame, as well as a bar, terrace and pool table.

This popular and sociable hostel has clean and economical private rooms, three- to ten-bed dorms, a TV lounge and a patio. The cheerful staff members host regular barbecues.

Providencia

As the glitzy commercial heart of Santiago, Providencia, well served by metro line #1 is worth considering as a base.

L’Ambassade

Run by a very welcoming Franco/Chilean family, this intimate and peaceful boutique B&B has tasteful en-suite doubles, an artwork-filled lounge, a small outdoor pool and a sauna. Super online discounts and an excellent breakfast.

This small hotel, on a quiet street in central Providencia, is a good choice. The rooms are comfortable and good value, though the decor is a bit twee; all come with private bathrooms, TVs and fridges.

Las Condes – and, in particular, Sanhattan – is Santiago’s burgeoning luxury hotel neighbourhood, with large shopping centres and art galleries nearby.

One of Santiago’s top five-stars, Sanhattan’s Ritz-Carlton has classically styled en suites, attentive but not overbearing service, excellent restaurants and bars, and a fifteenth-floor swimming pool, gym and spa sheltered from the elements by a glass dome.

In an eye-catching skyscraper, The W is a glamorous, achingly hip hotel. Highlights include the über-modern en suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, and the rooftop (21st-floor) pool and bar with superlative views. Service, however, can be inconsistent.

Visit Santiago and you’ll quickly realise it has a wide range of places to eat, from humble picadas serving traditional favourites to slick modern restaurants offering cuisines such as Japanese, Southeast Asian, Spanish, Peruvian, French and Italian.

Some are modestly priced but most are fairly expensive, although at lunchtime many offer a good-value fixed-price menú del día or menú ejecutivo . In most places there’s no need to book.

The best restaurants in Santiago

Most of Santiago’s restaurants are concentrated along the Alameda, around Plaza de Armas, or in Barrio Lastarria, Bellavista, Barrio Brasil, Providencia and Las Condes, where Isidora Goyenechea is lined with options. Santiago city guides in the know will tell you that there are some imaginative places springing up around Plaza Ñuñoa in the southeast part of town, and in pricey Vitacura.

Plaza de Armas

A hectic Peruvian joint serving sizeable portions of ceviche, fried chicken, seafood and lomo saltado (a heaped plate of beef, onions, tomatoes, chips and rice).

Bar de la Unión

Old wooden floors, shelves of dusty wine bottles and animated, garrulous old men make this an atmospheric place to pop in for a cheap glass of wine or a leisurely meal.

Interesting, offbeat cafés, restaurants and bars are springing up all the time in Barrio Brasil, with seafood a particular speciality.

The much-missed travelling gastronome Anthony Bourdain said the best food he ate in Chile was at El Hoyo, and the hearty, pork-focused dishes don’t disappoint. Specialities include pernil (leg of pork) and arrollado (rolled pork).

Ostras Azocar

This seafood restaurant has been serving king crab, lobster, squid and more since 1945. The house speciality is baked razor clams in cheese sauce. Sadly the waiting staff can be a bit slack.

Barrio Lastarria and around

Reservations are recommended here in the evenings, as many of the restaurants have fewer than ten tables. Parking is easy, and the barrio is very close to the Universidad Católica metro stop.

With more than three hundred wine labels in its cellar, this restaurant seeks to introduce you to new tipples and the ideal food to pair with it. Its most popular wine tasting options are the vuelos of three glasses, each a different blend.

This fun Santiago institution feels a bit like a Germanic take on an American-style diner. Grab a seat at the counter, order a draught beer and watch your vast lomito beef sandwich, churrasco or other artery-clogging meal being prepared before you.

Bellavista – particularly Calle Constitución, which runs parallel with the area’s main drag, Pio Nono – is at the heart of Santiago’s eating-out scene.

El Caramaño

Graffiti-covered walls, soft live guitar music, amiable waiters, excellent, wallet-friendly Chilean food including pastel de choclo , and frequent free aperitifs make this restaurant a standout.

This cool sanguchería turns sandwich-making into an art form: varieties include teriyaki chicken, suckling pig, fried merluza (hake) and the chivito , Uruguay’s take on the steak sandwich.

Providencia and Ñuñoa

Conveniently located on metro line 1, Providencia offers many lunch and dinner options. Nearby, though less accessible, Ñuñoa has trendier restaurants, often with good music thrown in.

This exemplary Chilean/French bistro and salon de thé has an ever-changing menu marked up on chalkboards. Dishes could include country pâté , c oq au vin and tarte tatin .

The best vegetarian restaurant in Santiago, with a mouthwatering range of inventive, seasonal dishes; asparagus and ricotta strudel, paneer tikka masala and vegetable quesadillas all feature. The freshly squeezed juices and artisan beers are also great.

Las Condes and Vitacura

As you’d expect in these exclusive neighbourhoods, restaurants are often more about money than taste, but those reviewed here are well worth the extra outlay.

A short walk from Los Dominicos craft market, this restaurant combines attentive service, a creative cocktail menu and refined Italian cuisine, including a particularly memorable seafood risotto.

Simple, traditional restaurant with pavement seating, serving daily specials such as spicy chicken, plus a range of wine and cocktails.

Top image © Shutterstock

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