2015 dodge journey water pump replacement

• Remember me Not recommended on shared computers

Forgot your password?

• Maintenance & D.Y.I.

3.5L timing belt and water pump replacement

• timing belt

By JDennis February 5, 2018 in Maintenance & D.Y.I.

• Reply to this topic
• Start new topic

Recommended Posts

I haven't seen much in the way of more involved repair walkthroughs on forums for Journeys, so after replacing the timing belt and water pump on the wife's car I figured I'd write one to benefit others in the future. 

It is a significant savings to do this job yourself, and not terribly difficult if you've ever changed an alternator or other minor mechanical work. 

Background: The wife messaged me at work that the Journey was making a funny sound. I drove it and heard nothing. It would seemingly come and go at will. It turned out to the timing belt tensioner  had disintegrated. The internals were just floating around behind the timing cover . The front metal plate that at one time held the bearings was laying against the crank pulley when I opened it up, the rear plate was chewed up and mangled, and the bearings we're distributed at random throughout.

The job requires few specialty tools, which if you do not currently own, will potentially save you money down the road and, even if you must purchase them all at the time of the job, will still come out cheaper than paying a mechanic, or worse the dealership.

Job could take anywhere from a few hours for someone with experience to a full day, so set aside some time if this is your first time doing it. Apologies for the lengthy read, but I tried to be as descriptive as possible. Unfortunately I did not think to take photos while I was doing it.

What you need:

- Timing belt - Tensioner Pulley - Water Pump - Hydraulic Tensioner

Required tools:

- Harmonic Balancer Puller ($30 or so on Amazon) - E12 external torx socket (try to find as short of a socket as possible, there is not a lot of space to work) - T40 torx socket (again, shortest possible is better. Walmart used to carry a set made by Great Neck which were much shorter than any others I own. They're not great tools, but the bolt it will be used on does not require a lot of torque) - 10mm box wrench and socket - 13mm box wrench and socket - 15mm box wrench and socket - 16mm box wrench and socket - 18mm box wrench and socket - 24mm socket - 1/2" Impact wrench - 3/8" ratchet - Flathead screwdriver - Hammer - Pliers - Jack - Jackstands - small piece of wood (6" 2x4, 6" 1x4, small cube of plywood etc.) - shallow fluid catch pan

Optional tools ( but good to have):

- Slim head ratchet - Paint pen, nail polish, white out or other marking device that works on rubber, steel and aluminum. - Spring clamp

Start by parking on a flat level surface, with the vehicle in park, parking break set, and place wheel chocks in front and back of the rear wheels. 

Jack the vehicle up and place your jackstands. Check to make sure the jackstand feet are all touching the ground and that the vehicle is securely supported by them.

Remove the passenger wheel, and plastic belly pan if installed (Ours hasn't had the belly pan since we've owned it).

Lower your Jack and move it underneath the engine on the passenger side. Place your block of wood between the oil pan and the Jack and raise it until it is just touching the oil pan.

You can follow the recommended procedure for draining the coolant now, or... Just place your catch pan under the lower radiator hose and pull the lower hose off. 

While that is draining, remove the 2 13mm bolts holding the coolant reservoir in place, and the 1 13mm bolt holding the power steering reservoir. Lift the coolant reservoir and using your pliers, slide the clamps holding the lines back and remove the lines. Bend the lines out of the way and set the reservoir to the side. Thread the bolts back into their holes so they do not get misplaced.

Remove the 3 18mm bolts and 2 10mm bolts holding the upper right engine mount . Set it to the side and lay the bolts in the holes so they do not get misplaced.

Slide underneath the vehicle and remove the 2 long 18mm bolts holding the front lower center engine mount . Remove the rubber grommets, place them on the bolts and set the bolts in a location where they will not lost. You can remove the 4 or 5 bolts in the rear of the mount as well to allow more movement, but in my experience it wasn't necessary.

Using a 15mm box wrench lift the serpentine belt tensioner and remove the serpentine belt . Loosen the 15, or 16mm bolt that holds the tensioner arm in place. It only needs to come out enough to allow the alignment tab to be pulled out, and the tensioner arm pivoted up and down.

Remove the serpentine belt idler pulley.

Remove the 5 10mm bolts and 1 13mm bolt from the cast aluminum timing inspection cover. Place it to the side and lay the bolts in the holes so they do not get misplaced.

With your impact, remove the 18mm bolt securing the harmonic balancer to the crankshaft. Remove two of the small silver pivot bolts from your puller and attach the puller to the harmonic balancer. Slide the longer of the two rods into the puller bolt, grease the threads of the puller bolt, and thread it into the puller. Make sure the rod slides into the cavity on the crankshaft. Use a 24mm socket and your impact to remove the harmonic balancer. Set the harmonic balancer to the side and lubricate and thread the 18mm bolt back into the crankshaft. It only has to be flush with the crank gear and hand tight at this point, but you are going to be using it to turn the crank later.

From here in you will begin having to raise and lower the Jack supporting the engine periodically to create space to work.

Remove the 3 E12 external torx bolts from the power steering pump and slide it towards the front of the engine bay.

Remove the (I forget how many) 10mm bolts, use a deep 15mm socket or box wrench to remove the nut over the stud, and use your T40 socket to remove the one bolt that was behind the serpentine belt tensioner from the timing cover . 

Slide the timing cover over the stud and wiggle it out through the top. You may need to adjust the engine position to create space to get it out, be careful not to bend the cover.

With all of the timing belt components in place, rotate the crank shaft by hand until the arrow on the back of the crank pulley lines up with the arrow on the engine. Do not confuse the arrow on the back of the pulley with the notch on the face of the pulley. 

Check your cam gear to see if the lines on the cam gears line up with the marks on the bracket. If no lines are visible by the marks, look at the bottom of the pulleys, they are likely 180 degrees out. If that is the case, rotate the crank once more by hand until all marks line up.

At this point I like to use some brake cleaner and an air hose to clean everything up and blow any debris out. In my case the tensioner pulley had grenaded and the ball bearings as well as various other particles we're scattered throughout. Make sure you get everything cleaned out, so it doesn't end up damaging your new belt or components.

I also like to use a paint pen to clearly mark the timing marks so they are easy to identify.

Remove the 2 13mm bolts holding the tensioner in place and slide it towards the axleshaft and out of it's hole and discard. Remove the old timing belt and discard.

Place your new water pump face up  on a level surface. Remove (again, I forget how many) 10mm bolts securing the water pump. The bolts are two different lengths, so as you remove them from the old water pump, place them in the corresponding hole on the new water pump so you can keep track of where they go. 

Using a Flathead screwdriver and a hammer, gently tap the screwdriver under the face of the water pump and rotate it to pry the water pump free. Be careful not to mar the mounting surface on the engine. If you create a small bur, one the engine face you can use the hammer and screwdriver to tap it flat again, you just want the mounting surface to be clean, flat, and free from defects.

Place the old water pump next to the new one and transfer the bolts into their corresponding holes.

Check that the gasket for the new  water pump is firmly in place. Put the new water pump in place and finger tighten the bolts until they are snug. I could not find a specific order to tighten the bolts, but you want to jump around as you tighten them, criss crossing over the pump pulley. Do not start from one and go clockwise/counterclockwise. You want an even force to be applied so the gasket seals properly.

Remove the 15 or 16mm bolt holding the tensioner pulley to the tensioner arm. Install the new pulley.

Install the timing belt. Starting at the crank, I like to push a 1/4" ratchet handle to keep tension on the belt and pulley. Doesn't have to be wedged in hard, just enough to keep the teeth in place so they don't slip. 

Next slip the belt over the front pulley (right as you are facing it). You may have to rotate it clockwise slightly with an 18mm wrench when you slip the belt on and then push it counterclockwise to take up the slack. Just keep a controlled grip on the wrench and make slight adjustments. 

If you have some small spring clips you can use then here to keep the belt from sliding off of the cam gear or changing position, it doesn't have to be strong, in fact you want it to be a light grip to keep from damaging the cam gears which can be brittle, just enough to keep the teeth engaged.

When the belt is in place with slack taken up, slide it under the water pump pulley and over the rear (left as you are facing it) cam pulley. 

Slide the new hydraulic tensioner into place and lubricate and hand thread the bolts enough to get them started. You may need to adjust the grenade pin slightly, if it is pushed through and sticking out of the rear of the tensioner it will not be able to fit through the hole.

Slip the belt over the tensioner pulley and tighten the tensioner bolts just enough that you can still slide the belt off of the tensioner pulley .

Using a paint pen or other marking device, mark the cam pulleys and belt at a tooth location that will not be confused with the timing marks.

Tighten the tensioner bolts and check timing mark alignment. If anything has shifted, take note of how far off it is (1 tooth, 2teeth, etc)  slack the bolts and adjust belt position accordingly using the marks you made.

When the tensioner is firmly bolted in place and all marks line up correctly, remove the grenade pin. Check timing marks again. If they are not lined up, remove the tensioner and compress it using a vise or large c-clamp and reinstall the pin.

If all of your marks line up, place a 18mm wrench on the crank bolt and rotate the crank by hand for two full turns. Check your timing marks again. If they are off, remove the tensioner as described above and start over. If they line up correctly you are done.

Reassemble timing covers etc in reverse order. Refill coolant, purge air and the job is done.

I was unable to find torque specs specifically for the Journey, but did find some other vehicles that came with the 3.5L which had torque specs posted. 

I know there are some YouTube videos covering this procedure, but the videos tend to jump from step to step and I like having a written procedure to reference.

• JimBobLeNob

Link to comment

Share on other sites.

I'm on the fence about recommending OEM parts for the job. In all of my years working on cars I've never personally seen a tensioner pulley  come apart like that... 

I would however recommend purchasing quality parts from a reputable manufacturer at your own discretion, and purchasing all of the parts listed, as it is a time consuming job, a bit of a PITA because there's not much room to work, and you only want to do it once rather than keep going back to replace those parts you opted not to change.

Optionally you may wish to add cam and crank seals to your list. My wife's Journey was bone dry behind the timing cover , and I've never seen those seals leak enough to be of consequence. In my own experience, by the time they need replacing the engine  will likely be due for a rebuild or the scrapyard.

Left out coolant  as well, Zerex G-05

I'm surprised the the camshaft didnt skip and ruin a few valves in the process....guess you were lucky

Both cams were off one tooth. Timing belt  had two small vertical cuts on opposing ends about 10mm from the edge but otherwise in good condition. Tensioner outter ring was still riding on the inner, so maybe 8mm shorter? But the tensioner was now fully extended so maybe slightly less difference under no load or light load. Was enough to keep it going after failure, but if it went on any longer it'd be toast.

How many miles when this happened?  Sounds like a PIA job....

110k, it was due. Also swapped the fuel pump  module out today to fix the fuel level sending unit.

Messed with the original unit once I had it out to see why it quit working. The ground wire had an open... Was just insulation holding it to the terminal. They also didn't bother to actually strip any wire when they crimped the connectors on. 

Doesn't much surprise me since one of the coolant  fittings was only screwed in hand tight as well and backed out.

figure I'll rewire the old unit, solder the connections and keep it as a spare.

of note, the replacement module I got was molded differently. The alignment tab was slightly counterclockwise of where it should be, and the locking tabs for the plug we're not placed correctly.

being as I was already knee deep in it, I trimmed to fit and drove on.

car is check engine  light free again for the time being.

• larryl and 2late4u

• 9 months later...

Just finished this job up along with replacing all the motor and trans mounts. 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

×   Pasted as rich text.    Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.    Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.    Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

• Insert image from URL
• Submit Reply
• Existing user? Sign In

More Forum Apps

• Online Users
• Leaderboard

|| Forum Activity ||

• All Activity
• Create New...

Dodge Journey Maintenance and Repair Cost Estimator: March 2013

Cost to replace dodge journey water pump, cost to replace dodge journey water pump - references.

We recommend the following online resources for trustworthy information about Dodge Journey maintenance, repair and service. These resources deliver honest real world ownership perspectives and useful facts for anyone researching the cost to replace the water pump on the Dodge Journey.

• [1] Automotive Cooling Systems A common sense guide to understanding the operation, maintenance and repair of automobile cooling systems.
• [2] How Cooling Systems Work A useful summary of how an automobile cooling system works and common maintenance and repair issues with cooling systems.
• [3] Chrysler, Plymouth and Dodge Forums One of the internet's top forums for Chrysler, Plymouth and Dodge owners and enthusiasts. Owner submitted gallery pictures, discussions, Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) and a wide range of Do-It-Yourself articles.
• [4] Chrysler Forum One of the internet's most active Chrysler online communities. Pictures, modifications, discussions, Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) and a wide range of Do-It-Yourself service, repair and customization articles.
• [5] Edmunds Chrysler Forum The leading online forum for Chrysler Enthusiasts and Owners. Pictures, discussions, Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) and a wide range of Do-It-Yourself articles.
• [6] Aftermarket Versus Manufacturer Car Parts - Is it Worth the Premium Cost? An authoritative industry study that compares the average cost, quality and warranty history of Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) parts to Aftermarket substitute parts.
• [7] United States Bureau of Labor Statistics Wage Data by Area and Occupation Survey summaries of regional wages for automotive repair professionals.

Cost to Replace Dodge Journey Water Pump - Notes

Cost estimates are based on industry average productivity levels for the repair and local labor rates charged by experienced automotive professionals. These estimates show a range of fair prices for your vehicle and geographic area. Auto repair shop prices are set by each shop and may be different than price ranges estimated here - particularly if the scope of work varies from that described here.

Homewyse is a trademark of Costwyse LLC. All other trademarks used herein are trademarks of their respective owners.

FREE SHIPPING on most orders of $35+ & FREE PICKUP IN STORE

2015 Dodge Journey

2015 Dodge Journey - Water Pump

• MasterPro Water Pump
• Murray Temperature Control

Drive Style

• Serpentine Belt

Hub Height (in)

Impeller diameter (in), impeller material, related categories.

• Air Intake Hose
• Antifreeze Flush Kit/Test
• Balance Shaft Belt
• Belt - Serpentine Type
• Belt - V-Type
• Belt Component Kit
• Belt Tensioner Adjuster
• Belt Tensioner Spring
• Bypass Hose
• Coolant / Antifreeze - Vehicle Specific
• Coolant Bypass Pipe
• Coolant Hose Kit
• Cooling Fan Clutch
• Cooling System Tools
• Drip & Drain Pans
• Gasket Makers & Sealers
• Gasket Removers
• Hand Cleaners
• Heater Hose
• Heater Hose Assembly
• Hose Clamp - Vehicle Specific
• Pulley-Idler
• Pulley-Tensioner
• Radiator Hose
• Radiator/Coolant Recovery Cap
• Shop Towels
• Thermostat Housing/Water Outlet
• Thermostats
• Timing Belt
• Timing Belt Component Kit
• Timing Belt Tensioner Kit

Murray Temperature Control Water Pump - New

Repair your car's water pump.

Your water pump pressurizes coolant to keep it moving throughout the engine and cooling system, helping to keep your engine at its appropriate and safe-operating temperature. The water pump on your vehicle includes an impeller inside the engine's water channel that is driven by a pulley, which is powered by the engine's belt. Over time, the water pump gasket, the impeller, or the bearing in the water pump may fail. Depending on how your water pump fails, you may experience coolant leaks, engine overheating, or steam coming from under the hood indicating that the water pump requires service or replacement. You may also notice squeaking from the water pump pulley if the bearing has begun to fail, and if the pulley seems loose or wobbles while the engine is running, it could allow the belt to slip off or suffer damage. Water pump failure can quickly lead to overheating and engine damage, so it is best to diagnose and repair any water pump or cooling system issues before you continue to drive your vehicle to prevent more costly or severe problems. If you need a new water pump, shop O'Reilly Auto Parts for the right replacement cooling system components for your repair. We also carry the antifreeze, radiator hoses, and serpentine belts you might need to complete your water pump installation.

Dodge Journey:  Signs of a Bad Water Pump

Your Dodge Journey’s water pump is one of the most crucial parts of the engine.  If it doesn’t pump water through the engine, it’s going to overheat and do a lot of damage.  Typical signs of a bad water pump include overheating, white smoke, a bad smell, rough idle, and more.

A water pump works by pumping water through the engine.  If nothing turns it, it can’t pump any water.  Taking a look at the health of the drive belt is always a great place to start if you are trying to figure out if your Journey’s water pump is bad.

It is possible for the water pump to last for the entire life of the vehicle.  But it is a simple machine with moving parts, which means that failure will inevitably strike.  The only question is how long will it take to happen.

Bad Water Pump Signs: Dodge Journey

Here are the most common symptoms of a bad water pump in your Journey:

A noisy water pump can indicate that it has a bearing that is going out.  The problem with most engine noises is that they are difficult to hunt down.  

If your water pump is easy to reach, you can gently place a really long screwdriver tip against it.  Then, place the handle end of the screwdriver against your ear.  You should be able to hear the noise clearly coming from the water pump.

Be careful, there are a lot of moving parts around the water pump.

2. Leaking Water Pump

Water leaking from around your Journey’s water pump is a sure indication that the water pump could be bad.  It could be the water pump or the water pump gasket causing the leak.  

You have to pull the water pump to replace the gasket.  Due to the relative low price of a water pump in relation to how much work it takes to get off, we recommend replacing the water pump even if the gasket is bad.

3. Low Coolant Level

If the coolant is leaking out of the water pump from somewhere, you’re going to get low coolant.  The problem is that low coolant can indicate a lot of different problems.  It can indicate a bad radiator, radiator hose, or thermostat housing as well.

4. Overheating and/or Steam

If your Journey has leaked enough radiator fluid, there won’t be enough left to properly cool your engine, and it’ll overheat.

Steam will rise out of the hood if engine coolant is leaking onto the exhaust.

Bad Water Pump Behavior

It can be tough trying to figure out if your Journey’s water pump is bad.  The signs of a bad water pump are the same as a lot of other radiator components.

A water pump that is struggling to function will cause your Journey to run hot .  If you have a temperature gauge and you see that your Journey is running hotter than it should be, try parking and revving the engine a bit (in neutral or park).  If the gauge goes down, that would be a very strong indicator that the water pump is bad.

Bad Water Pump Causes:  Dodge Journey

Here are some of the most common problems that can lead to a bad water pump:

Dry Rotation

Your Journey’s water pump is designed to rotate with coolant inside of it.  This helps create a watertight seal that can withstand the pressure in the cooling system.

Without water the fluid cushion between the two rings (shaft and stationary) is lost.  These rings will quickly fail and you’ll be stuck with a slow leak from the water pump.

This can happen when you’ve allowed your Journey to run without coolant, or if you’ve recently replaced the water pump and dry started it without any coolant.

Bad/Improper Seal

Over time, the seal can go bad around the water pump.  It’ll start leaking water and go bad.  A big mistake that people make when they put a new water pump on is to use a bunch of gasket sealer.  Most manufacturers will only recommend a small amount in a few key places or none at all.

Wrong Coolant

It is imperative that you follow the Dodge’s directions when it comes to the type of coolant that you use.  The wrong coolant can eat away at the gasket.

Contaminants in the cooling system can wear down the gasket and seals as well.  Using the wrong coolant can cause internal rust and corrosion.  This corrosion will effectively water blast the water pump.

Bad Bearings

Your water has bearings in the rotating assembly.  They can fail like any other bearing.  If the bearings are bad it usually won’t do so quietly.  A horrible squeaking noise that goes up and down with your Journey’s engine RPM should be observed.

Serpentine Belt

The serpentine belt can cause the water pump to go bad if it’s been improperly installed, or if there’s too much tension on it.  Here are some common signs that a serpentine belt is bad.  

Conclusion:  Journey Bad Water Pump Symptoms

A bad water pump has the potential to cause a lot of engine damage.  Getting ahead of it before your Journey overheats will save you a lot of money.  

Thank you for reading.  We really hope that this helps.  Please feel free to leave a comment below with any questions or concerns that you may have.

CarParts.com will be back soon!

We apologize for the inconvenience. The CP Team is working on some upgrades to improve our service. Thank you for using CarParts.com!

You can call us at

1-866-529-0412

Reference ID: 18.6fc733e.1713405602.2bd5741

• Shopping Cart 0

2015 Dodge Journey Engine Water Pumps

Shop By Service Type

Popular Products

• 2015 Dodge Journey AVP
• 2015 Dodge Journey Canada Value Package
• 2015 Dodge Journey Crossroad
• 2015 Dodge Journey Limited
• 2015 Dodge Journey R/T
• 2015 Dodge Journey SE
• 2015 Dodge Journey SE Plus
• 2015 Dodge Journey SXT
• 15 Dodge Journey Affordable Accessories & Parts
• 2015 Dodge Journey Front Bumper Reflector Stickers Price