p0132 chrysler voyager

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P0132 and P0138 error code on Chrysler Grand Voyager

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Hi everyone! I’m new in this forum and wish that you can help me with my problem. I have a Chrysler Grand Voyager 2005 and have the engine light on on the dashboard, when I did check to know which fault I have in my car I got these two error codes P0132 and P0138 as you can see in the images below. I searched for the reasons for these codes and all I found was about the Oxygen sensors, so I had changed and replaced two new sensors one for bank 1 and the other one for bank 2. I also changed the catalyst on the car, but unfortunately the engine light still on and same code were shown when I made the check up several times. So did anybody had the same problem, or do anybody know what would be the solution for my issue, any advice? Best regards BZ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk  

Was any diagnostic testing done?  

Yes There were some diagnostic test done at service workshops before I replaced the sensors Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk  

It's always difficult to help anyone online, with no access to the vehicle; but it's impossible when a third party did the testing, and you can't provide the test results. What's needed is OBD realtime data stream (i.e. not just codes), and electrical testing using a multimeter. All I can suggest is for you to do the testing yourself, and then we could potentially help you based on the results. But if you're not up for that, then you'll have to take it to a shop.  

cvguy said: It's always difficult to help anyone online, with no access to the vehicle; but it's impossible when a third party did the testing, and you can't provide the test results. What's needed is OBD realtime data stream (i.e. not just codes), and electrical testing using a multimeter. All I can suggest is for you to do the testing yourself, and then we could potentially help you based on the results. But if you're not up for that, then you'll have to take it to a shop. Click to expand...

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What Does The P0132 Code Mean?

• Updated: February 12, 2023

When the Check Engine Light comes on the dash, your heart might sink into your stomach, wondering what is going wrong with the vehicle. With a code scanner, you might see the P0132 code, which helps you figure out what needs to be repaired.

In this guide, I look at the meaning of the P0132 trouble code. I also reveal the symptoms and causes of it while examining how to repair it. 

Code P0132 Definition

P0132 – O2 Oxygen Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank1, Sensor1)

What Does the P0132 Code Mean?

The P0132 code indicates that there is a high voltage issue on your Oxygen sensor or Bank 1. This code occurs when the powertrain control module (PCM) detects that the oxygen sensor’s voltage reading is too high. 

In some cases, the code sets because the oxygen sensor isn’t responding quickly enough to adjust for the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber. It can also mean that the voltage has gone too high and stayed there for longer than it should have. For each manufacturer, the time is determined differently. 

RELATED: Bank 1 vs Bank 2 – Sensor 1 & 2

P0132 Trouble Code Symptoms

The most common symptom of P0132 is the Check Engine Light , but there are also performance issues that might arise.

Here are the most common symptoms:

• Check Engine Light
• Poor fuel economy
• Black exhaust smoke
• Stalling engine

In rare cases, there might not be any symptoms other than the Check Engine Light, but this isn’t common. 

Causes of the P0132 Code

In most cases, the P0132 code indicates that there’s trouble with the oxygen sensor, but that’s not all that could be wrong. 

Here are some of the most common causes:

• Bad oxygen sensor
• Malfunctioning mass air flow sensor
• Excessive fuel pressure
• Defective wiring or electrical circuit fault
• Bad PCM/requires an update
• Bad engine coolant temperature sensor

How Serious is the P0132 Code?

Low – In the majority of cases, P0132 isn’t going to stop you from driving your car. However, there could be an increase in performance issues, and the car will likely use more fuel than necessary. While experiencing these issues, the car may also pump more pollutants into the environment.

It’s best to have the vehicle looked at as soon as the problem is noticed. Even if you are able to drive the car, there’s no guarantee that will continue. You could find yourself stranded if the issue gets worse. 

What Repairs Can Fix the P0132 Code?

A complete diagnosis is needed to determine what should be repaired. However, here are a few repairs that might resolve the P0132 trouble code.

• Replace oxygen sensor
• Replace the mass air flow sensor
• Fix fuel system
• Repair wiring or electrical fault
• Replace PCM
• Replace the engine coolant temperature sensor

Common P0132 Diagnosis Mistakes

The majority of the time, a new oxygen sensor is needed to fix the P0132 code. However, before you replace the oxygen sensor, you want to do complete diagnostics to ensure you aren’t missing something obvious.

Some people replaced the oxygen sensor only to find out that there was a wiring fault. Take a minute to look at the wiring to see if anything is exposed or broken. 

Recommended Tools for Diagnosis

• Diagnostic OBD Scan Tool
• Basic Hand Tools
• Auto Repair Manual
• Electrical Contact Cleaner

How to Diagnose the P0132 Trouble Code

Here are the steps that a professional mechanic would take when trying to figure out what’s causing the P0132 code. 

• With an OBDII scanner , examine the freeze frame data. Evaluate the trouble codes that are stored.
• Reset all of the codes to remove P0132 from memory. The Check Engine Light should go off. 
• Take a test drive to see if the P0132 code comes back, and the Check Engine Light illuminates again.
• View the live data in the scanner to check the voltage going to the oxygen sensors.
• Inspect the wiring and harness to see if anything is broken or exposed. 
• Update the PCM, if needed.
• Replace any worn-out parts and retest the system. 

Estimated Cost of Repair

Considering many of the top repairs, these are the costs associated with the most popular. 

• Oxygen Sensor – $150-$500
• Mass Air Flow Sensor – $200-$400
• Repair Fuel System – $200-$1,000
• Repair Wiring – $50-$1,500
• Update PCM – $50-$150
• PCM – $500-$1,500
• Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor – $100-$250

Mechanics Tips about the P0132 Code

If you are attempting to remove the oxygen sensor, you might run into issues if it has become seized. Sometimes, removing an oxygen sensor from the exhaust can be difficult. You can use a propane torch to get it removed. 

You also want to make sure you attach the oxygen sensor wrench securely to prevent it from stripping. Otherwise, you could run into even bigger problems to deal with. 

How do I fix error P0132?

To fix the P0132 error code, you’ll first have to figure out what’s causing the upstream oxygen sensor’s voltage to be too high. Apart from the OBD2 scan tool, some basic hand tools and a multimeter will be needed here. In addition, you might need a repair manual for your car or some appropriate wiring diagrams. With all that, you should be able to pinpoint what’s causing the P0132 code. Lastly, once the fault has been found and repaired, use the scan tool to delete the code from the vehicle’s memory.

Is it safe to drive with P0132?

While possible, driving with an active P0132 trouble code is not recommended. It means the signal from the upstream oxygen sensor, whose readings are used for adjusting the air-fuel mixture, is incorrect. When this happens, the PCM will use predetermined values, resulting in less-than-optimal adjustment. Besides increased fuel consumption, this can also cause various running issues, such as hesitation or misfire. In addition, your car might be emitting more harmful gases, which could damage the catalytic converter in the long run.

What causes an O2 sensor to read high voltage?

The P0132 code is set when the PCM detects the voltage coming from the upstream oxygen sensor is too high. Several things can cause this to happen, including a faulty O2 sensor, broken wiring, or malfunctioning PCM. In addition, the oxygen sensor’s voltage may be too high if the engine is running rich. Some common causes for this are a broken thermostat, faulty coolant temperature sensor, and dirty MAF.

Where is Bank 1 sensor 1?

In all cars, regardless of the make or model, sensor 1 is the upstream oxygen sensor. This places it between the cylinder head and the catalytic converter. As a result, finding it is easy, especially in cars with 4-cylinder engines, as these only have one bank. The situation, however, is entirely different when the vehicle has a V6 or V8 engine, as these have two banks. Bank 1 is the one that houses cylinder no. 1, and, in most cases, it will be on the right-hand side when looking from the engine’s timing end.

All modern cars have an oxygen sensor, which is sometimes also called a lambda sensor. This component analyzes the content of exhaust gas by measuring the amount of oxygen in it. The information obtained by it is used by the engine control module, or ECM, to adjust the air-fuel ratio in the combustion process. This improves the engine’s performance and reduces its emissions.

However, if the voltage given by the sensor is higher than predicted, the ECM will trigger the P0132 trouble code. This can be caused by a faulty sensor, wiring issues, or a rich-running engine.

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P0132: How To Check Your O2 Sensor

Seeing a P0132 trouble code in that OBD scanner of yours? This article will discuss everything you need to know about this code. From the meaning, troubleshooting, the repairs that you might need to do, and cost estimates. Here’s everything you need to know:

• Code Meaning
• Troubleshooting
• Repairs & Cost

Let’s get straight into it. The P0132 code is defined as  “Oxygen Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 1).”  This essentially means that the car’s Engine Control Unit (ECU) has detected high voltage outside of the accepted value from one of the car’s oxygen sensors .

Note that this is a generic trouble code, and it means the same regardless of your car’s make and model. So, you don’t need to research what it means in your specific car make since it’s all the same. An easy way to tell is by looking at the second digit of the code (the number after the letter).

If it’s a ‘0’ such as in this case, then it’s a generic code. If it’s a ‘1’ or a ‘3’ then it’s a manufacturer-specific code and likely indicates different issues depending on the car’s make and model . The number ‘2’ may also indicate manufacturer-specific codes, but some of them are generic.

In any case, if the second digit is anything other than ‘0’ then it’s a good idea to search what it means in your specific car make. Before we break down the code further, you’ll need to understand what the O2 sensor is and what it does:

O2 Sensors: What Do They Do?

An oxygen sensor or O2 sensor, as the name suggests, is a sensor that detects oxygen levels. Specifically, it detects the oxygen level in the exhaust gases from the engine. The purpose of this sensor is to measure and control the engine’s air-to-fuel ratio .

As you probably know, your car works by combusting fuel and air inside the cylinders. This mixture ideally should be at the Stoichiometric ratio , which is 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel. This ratio provides the best compromise between performance and fuel efficiency. This is why the O2 sensor is sometimes referred to as the Air-Fuel Ratio (AFR) sensor.

The O2 sensor measures the oxygen level in the exhaust gases and feeds that information into the ECU. If the oxygen is too high, then the ECU will try to reduce the amount of air it takes in and inject more fuel . And  vice versa  if the oxygen level in the exhaust gas is too low.

The sensor has a sensing element and a heating element. The heater warms up the sensor to around 650 degrees Fahrenheit and then it can start to work. Afterward, the heat from the adjacent catalytic converter is enough to keep the sensor at operating temperature.

The sensing element responds to oxygen levels and sends a voltage to the ECU. This voltage is what lets the ECU knows how much oxygen is present in the exhaust gases . The less oxygen there is, the higher the voltage it will send. Usually up to about 0.98 volts, but this can vary depending on the car.

So, if the voltage is excessively high, this means either the sensor is faulty or the engine is burning too much fuel or not enough air .

O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

Let’s break down the code further. As mentioned, this code indicates that the ECU is getting a voltage reading from the sensor higher than the accepted value. Most O2 sensors will read as much as 0.98 volts, and if it’s above that, the ECU will think that something is wrong with the sensor.

As for the ‘ Bank 1 Sensor 1 ‘ part, know that cars have at least two oxygen sensors . One is the upstream sensor, which is the one that’s located before the catalytic converter. And there’s the downstream sensor that sits after the catalytic converter. The reason why there are two is that its second purpose is to measure the efficiency of the catalytic converter.

‘Sensor 1’ always refers to the upstream sensor. Meanwhile, bank 1 refers to exhaust manifold number 1. In V-configuration engines, such as a V6 or a V8, this is a little easier to find. Since the engine have two cylinder banks (row of cylinders), what you need to do is find cylinder number 1.

The exact location differs depending on make and model, but bank 1 is always where cylinder number 1 is located. For example, Ford V8s usually have cylinder number 1 on the passenger side, which means that side is bank 1. Afterward, follow the exhaust manifold to find the O2 sensor .

Meanwhile, inline-four and inline-six engines only have one bank. But sometimes they have two exhaust manifolds , such as in early 2000s Toyotas. So, you’ll need to locate cylinder number 1 and follow its exhaust manifold to find the O2 sensors. But it’ll probably be easier for you to search for exhaust and O2 sensor schematics online.

To summarize, bank 1 sensor 1 means that it’s the upstream sensor on bank 1 of the exhaust manifold that’s faulty.

P0132 Signs

Note that there are several potential causes, and the sensor itself might not be faulty. We’ll get into the causes after this though, but regardless of the cause, you’ll likely encounter these symptoms:

• Rough idle . Your engine’s RPM should sit steadily somewhere between 600 – 800rpm when it’s idling at operating temperature. If the needle jumps around , then it’s idling roughly and the P0132 code can cause this because the ECU might not be able to put in the correct mixture.
• Increased fuel consumption. High fuel pressure can trigger the P0132 code, and this means your engine is using more fuel than necessary.
• Black smoke from the exhaust. If the issue was caused by high fuel pressure , then the engine will get more fuel than it can burn. Unburnt fuel will result in black smoke from the exhaust .
• Stalling engine. This is rare, but it can happen. The air-to-fuel ratio might be thrown off so bad that it can cause the engine to stall while driving .

The symptoms may or may not appear when you have a P0132 code, and it depends on the severity of the issue. But if it does, then you should address it immediately. Not only do these symptoms make driving uncomfortable, but they can also lead to long-term damage.

For example, if the car produces black smoke due to this issue, this can clog the catalytic converter. This shortens the catalytic converter’s lifespan, and it can cost up to $2,500 to replace them. Not exactly pocket change for most people.

P0132 Causes & Troubleshooting

Here are the possible causes for the P0132 code:

• Faulty oxygen sensor or wiring.
• Faulty Mass Airflow (MAF) sensor. This is the sensor inside the air intake system that measures the amount of air flowing into the intake manifold. It helps the ECU to determine how much air to take into the engine amongst other things.
• High fuel pressure can cause the engine to take in more fuel than intended. This causes a rich fuel and air mixture (too much fuel) and leads to a high voltage reading from the O2 sensor .
• Faulty ECU that’s throwing false trouble codes. This could be because of damage or the ECU requiring an update, but it’s quite a rare issue.
• Bad engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor. A faulty ECT may tell the ECU that the engine is still cold. This results in the ECU injecting more fuel (because cold engines require more fuel to run) and causes a rich mixture causing a high voltage reading from the O2 sensor .

Now that you know the causes, we can discuss how to troubleshoot the code. Don’t go replacing your O2 sensor just yet, cause it might not be the cause. Here’s what you should do:

1. Scan For Other Trouble Codes

First and foremost you should always scan the OBD system with an OBD scanner and see if there are any other trouble codes. Other trouble codes that indicate a malfunctioning part can help narrow down the cause.

For example, a faulty MAF sensor can trigger a P0101 code. This code can mean either the MAF sensor is faulty, or there’s a vacuum leak in the engine. Although the latter is unlikely to throw the P0132 code. To find out more, check out our guide on what does a mass air flow sensor do .

In any case, if there are other trouble codes that indicate a different problem, then you should address that first. The O2 sensor itself may be fine. Instead, there’s something else causing the sensor to send the high voltage signal. Some codes you should look out for include:

• P0101 through P0109 which indicates issues with the MAF and Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor.
• Poo88 through P0092 indicates fuel pressure problems.
• P0115 through P0119 indicate a faulty engine coolant temperature sensor.

Look out for other codes as well, but those above are likely the ones causing the P0132 in the first place. But if there are no other codes present, here’s what to do next:

2. Visually Inspect The O2 Sensor

Before we start removing things, let’s take a look at the sensor first. Most cars will have the sensor underneath the car, somewhere just before the catalytic converter .

However, some cars do have the upstream sensor in the engine bay. Check your service manual if you have difficulties finding your sensor. And wait for the engine to cool down to avoid injuries (so, make sure you’re aware of how long does it take for a car to cool down). Afterward, check the sensor and see if there’s any physical damage to the sensor or the wiring.

The sensor has a metal housing and it kind of looks like a spark plug . And it’s connected to some wiring that supplies it with power. Check both the housing and the wiring, if there’s any kind of damage, then that’s the cause. If not, it’s time to test the sensor and its connectors.

Certain OBD scanners can perform an O2 sensor test. But we prefer to take it out and bench test it , this way you can test whether the sensor itself is faulty or it’s the wiring harness that’s causing the issue.

3. Test The Electrical Connector

Before we test the sensor itself, let’s test the connector to see if the sensor is getting power. This is less likely to cause the P0132, but it’s good to cover all basis. To do this, you’ll need a multimeter, and here’s how to do it:

• Disconnect the sensor’s electrical connector.
• Turn on the car’s ignition, but no need to run the engine.
• Set the multimeter to the DC 20-volt setting.
• Most modern cars will have four wires. The colors are different, but usually, there are two wires of the same color for the heating element. And the other one (or two) is for the sensor itself and the ground wire.
• Connect the multimeter to the pins of the sensor and ground wire. You should get a reading of about 1.5 volts.

If the connector seems fine, let’s test the sensor itself:

4. Test The O2 Sensor

You can test the O2 sensor without removing it. But if this isn’t feasible in your car, you’ll need an O2 sensor socket to remove it. Then slide the socket onto the sensor, and use a ratchet to unscrew the sensor. Large auto stores may have them for rent.

Once you gain access to the sensor’s connector, here’s how to test it:

• Set the multimeter to the lowest Ohm setting. This tests the sensor’s resistance.
• Connect the multimeter’s leads to the pins of the two wires that have the same color. Use an alligator clip test lead if you have difficulties connecting the leads to the pins.
• The appropriate reading may differ from one car to another. This can be anywhere from 2 to 7 ohms. But if the multimeter isn’t getting any reading, then it’s bad.

The video above is a complete guide on how to test the sensor and the electrical connector. You don’t need to do the volt test on the sensor though, as we already know that the sensor is getting a high voltage reading and we’re trying to find out the exact cause.

Aside from that, it’s a great video and will help you troubleshoot the problem . If you still can’t find the issue, then it’s time to call a professional . Most auto repair shops will charge around $120 for a diagnosis, provided no major disassembly job is required—and none are usually required in this particular case.

P0132 Repair Costs

The repairs and cost will depend on what’s causing the problem. Here are the repairs and its cost that you may need to face:

• O2 sensor replacement usually ranges from $150 to $450
• Wiring repairs are between $200 and $300 but it may be more depending on the extent of the damage.
• MAF sensor replacement costs $350 on average for most cars.
• Fuel pressure regulator replacement costs between $150 and $350 on average. But certain cars with electric regulators may cost up to $500.
• Engine coolant temperature sensor replacement costs around $250 on average.

All of the estimates already include the labor cost. And since they’re estimates, it may be more or less depending on your car’s make and model, and local labor rates .

Most of the replacement jobs are doable yourself, but some are more difficult such as replacing the ECT sensor (you can learn more in our guide on the Honda Civic P0128 code) and fuel pressure regulator. Additionally, other repairs may be necessary to solve your problem, but the ones we mentioned are the most common repairs.

Note that we don’t recommend attempting wiring repairs yourself unless you have advanced electrical knowledge and skills. We’ve linked the other jobs to relevant articles, and if you need to replace the O2 sensor, here’s how you can do it yourself:

O2 Sensor Replacement DIY

To do this job you’ll need an O2 sensor socket (make sure you have the correct size for your car), a ratchet, and some anti-seize. The process is relatively easy, and you can save up to $100 on labor costs:

• Slide the O2 sensor socket onto the sensor.
• Attach your ratchet to the socket, and then unscrew the sensor. You can remove it by hand once it’s loose.
• Apply anti-seize to the threads of the new O2 sensor. Use just a little and then rub it around with your finger. DO NOT apply it to the sensor head, you’ll need to buy another sensor if you do this.
• Insert the new sensor into the plug.
• Tighten it with your socket and ratchet. There’s no torque specification, so just tighten until it’s snug but don’t overtighten it.
• Reconnect the electrical connector to the new sensor.
• Use an OBD scanner or an auto code scanner to clear the trouble code, this resets the check engine light .
• Turn on the engine and drive around for about 15 minutes. If the check engine light doesn’t return, your car is now running well again.

If you need a visual guide, we recommend watching the video above. The video uses a RAV4 as an example though (make sure you pay close attention to the 2007 Toyota RAV4 problems ), and it has the O2 sensor in the engine bay. Many other cars will require you to get underneath to replace them, but the steps are the same.

Make sure that you get the correct size for the socket, the right O2 sensor for your car, and that you don’t apply anti-seize onto the sensor head. You don’t need to disconnect the battery to replace an O2 sensor, but the car should be off and you should wait until the car has cooled down to avoid injuries.

P0132 Trouble Code Facts:

• The P0132 trouble code indicates a problem with the 02 oxygen sensor staying at a high voltage for too long without switching back.
• Possible causes of the P0132 code include a short in the heater circuit of the oxygen sensor, broken or exposed oxygen sensor wires, or excessively high fuel temperature.
• Symptoms associated with the P0132 code may include the Check Engine Light being on, an increase of fuel consumption, irregular shifting, and/or the engine cutting off.
• If left unaddressed, the P0132 code can damage the catalytic converter.
• A mechanic will diagnose the P0132 code by taking a record of freeze frame data, using an OBD-II scanner to clear the code and view live data, and checking the oxygen sensor wiring for broken or exposed wires.
• Common mistakes when diagnosing the P0132 code include overlooking the oxygen sensor wiring and immediately replacing the oxygen sensor without checking for broken or exposed wires.
• The P0132 trouble code is not widely considered a serious one, but it is important to note that a vehicle in this condition emits harmful pollutants into the air.
• Repairs for the P0132 code may include repairing or replacing broken or exposed wires and replacing the oxygen sensor (bank 1 sensor 1).
• If the oxygen sensor has seized up in the exhaust pipe, a propane torch and oxygen sensor set may be necessary to remove it properly, and it is important to use an oxygen sensor wrench attached properly to prevent stripping during the removal process.

Some common questions about the P0132 code answered:

What Causes P0132 Code

The P0132 code is triggered when the Engine Control Unit (ECU) detects a high voltage reading from the oxygen (O2) sensor. Specifically the upstream sensor in bank 1 of the engine. A high voltage reading means the engine is burning too much fuel, and the maximum is 0.98 volts. If it’s above this, then there’s an issue. The cause can be a faulty sensor, wiring damage, or engine issues that are causing excess fuel to enter.

How Do I Fix Code P0132

To fix the code you’ll need to find the exact cause of the problem first. The repairs that may be necessary include replacing the O2 sensor, the engine coolant temperature sensor, the mass airflow (MAF) sensor, and/or the fuel pressure regulator. Wiring repairs may also be necessary. Use an OBD scanner for other trouble codes that may help to narrow down the cause.

What Does Code P0132 Mean

P0132 means Oxygen Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 1). This code indicates the ECU is getting a high voltage reading from the upstream oxygen sensor (O2) sensor outside of the accepted value, which is 0.98 volts. This can be caused by a faulty sensor, but it may also indicate the engine is burning too much fuel due to air intake and fuel pressure issues.

What Does O2 Sensor Do

The O2 sensor measures oxygen levels inside the exhaust gas. This indicates the fuel and air mixture the engine is burning. If there’s too much oxygen, then the engine is running lean (too much air, not enough fuel). If oxygen is low, then the engine is running rich (too much fuel, not enough air). The sensor feeds this information to the ECU so it can adjust various settings to achieve a Stoichiometric air-to-fuel ratio (14.7:1), which is what the engine needs.

Can I Drive With P0132 Code

If you don’t experience any symptoms with your cars such as rough idle, poor fuel consumption, and black smoke from the exhaust, then you can still drive the car. But you should still address the problem as soon as possible before it leads to severe damage that can cost you a lot of money.

P0132 Code: Final Thoughts

To summarize, the P0132 code indicates that the upstream O2 sensor in bank 1 of the engine is getting a high voltage reading outside of the accepted value. This suggests the sensor is faulty, but it may be caused by something else.

If the sensor is not faulty and there is no wiring damage, then this means the engine is burning too much fuel. This can be caused by a faulty mass airflow sensor, a bad engine coolant temperature sensor, and/or high fuel pressure.

Using an OBD scanner will help you to narrow down the possibilities and help to diagnose the problem. Always do this before you start replacing anything, as it can save you some money. Hopefully, this article will help you solve your problem. Good luck!

Kelvin Yates

A seasoned automotive enthusiast and expert, is the driving force behind Car Parts News. With years of hands-on experience and a passion for all things automotive, Kelvin brings you the latest tips, tricks, and insights into car maintenance, innovations, and industry trends. Whether you're a seasoned gearhead or a casual car owner, Kelvin's knowledgeable guidance is your pit stop for reliable car advice.

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The P0132 Trouble Code, How To Deal With It

Last updated on September 3rd, 2022 at 01:48 pm

What is the P0132 

The P0132 trouble code is one of the many diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) stored in a car’s computer. All vehicles have computer modules, commonly referred to as PCM (powertrain control module), which include the ECU (engine control unit) and TCU (transmission control unit). The car brain computers are responsible for monitoring and optimizing engine performance and transmission. To achieve this, they use various sensors and send inputs that can trigger trouble codes. Trouble codes are diagnostic codes that can tell a mechanic where the problem is originating from. PCM stores several trouble or error codes that are set when there are engine issues. Faulty PCMs may also trigger random codes, so it is recommendable to hire experienced mechanics to diagnose and troubleshoot the problem whenever a trouble code is set. 

What does code P0132 mean?

The DTC P0132 stands for ” Oxygen Sensor Circuit High Voltage, Specifically the Bank 1, Sensor 1. This code is set when the oxygen sensors in bank 1 (bank1 o2 sensor1) record high voltage for extended periods. O2 sensor circuit low voltage, also known as the upstream o2 sensor, refers to the oxygen sensors installed before the catalytic chamber in a typical single bank engine. The oxygen sensors installed after the catalytic chamber, or downstream o2 sensor is known as o2 sensor2. If the P0132 error code isn’t repaired, it may end up damaging the catalytic converter. As such, it is recommendable to fix P0132 trouble code sooner rather than later.

Causes and symptoms of P0132 trouble code

Circuit high voltage bank1 sensor1 is not considered a serious issue as it can be fixed through simple steps. Hiring an experienced mechanic can reset all PCM error codes using the OBD II scanner and pinpoint the trouble. However, it is crucial to keep an eye on the causes and symptoms of the trouble code. Here are some common causes of a P0132:

• A short in bank 1 sensor 1 heater circuit
• Broken, corroded or exposed oxygen sensor connectors and wires
• Wiring harness issues
• Extremely high fuel temperatures

It is possible to use your car despite the P0132 error code. Some drivers find it challenging to identify the code that is set, although this is usually a mechanics work. Some of the common symptoms of code P0132 include:

Check engine light

There are some cases where you will not notice any symptoms besides the check engine light. When this light illuminates your dashboard, it suggests a problem with the engine or transmission . All codes are set to trigger the check engine light, so you will need an OBD2 scanner tool to determine the code that has been set. Unless your dashboard has lighting issues, a P0132  code will turn on the check engine light.

Increased fuel consumption

Code P0132 means the catalytic chamber is not working at optimum efficiency, which can translate to poor combustion. Your car will end up using more fuel to provide the same power required to turn the engine. Experiencing a dip in fuel efficiency is a common indicator of faulty PCMs and diagnostic trouble codes.

Erratic car performance and transmission

With poor combustion and less than optimum catalytic convertor operation, you will start to experience engine performance issues that range from reduced power to more gallons per mile. Your car’s transmission will also suffer problems such as stalling and annoying noise, especially when shifting gears.

Increased emissions

Since a P0132 DTC deals with catalytic converter performance, problems in the combustion chamber may increase exhaust emissions, including peculiar smoke color and odor. This results from incomplete fuel combustion and leaks within the system. Nonetheless, this symptom stems from various other diagnostic trouble codes, especially those set by imbalances in the catalytic converter and fuel injection.

How to troubleshoot P0132 code

Fixing code P0132 high voltage bank1 sensor1 trouble code requires an OBD2 scanner and expert mechanic troubleshooting. It is recommendable to avoid DIY repairs as this can void your warranty and cost you thousands of dollars in the future. Usually, the mechanic will follow some standard procedures indicated by manufacturers. This may include:

Using an OBD II scanner to take freeze frame data and the record of all stored trouble codes in the PCM.

Resetting all codes to clear the P0132 and turn off the check engine light. This is often followed by a test drive to determine if the check engine light and P0132 comes back on.

Viewing live data from the OBD-II scanner to monitor the voltage level going into the o2 upstream sensors. This process is to set the voltages back to proper levels.

Checking the wiring harness of oxygen sensors to fix exposed or broken wires and connectors.

There are generally two fixes for trouble code P0132. The first is to repair or replace worn-out, broken oxygen sensor wires. It is essential to inspect the wiring harness before replacing oxygen sensors, which is the second solution. In most cases, you don’t need to replace o2 sensors unless they are damaged.

P0132 circuit high voltage bank1 sensor1 is a common trouble code that may be set by various factors. When that happens, it is crucial to get your car computer modules inspected and reset. Leaving the P0132 trouble code to stay for extended periods can cause aggravated damages to other engine systems starting with the catalytic converter. In some cases, the error code is a result of faulty PCMs. If this is the problem, you can find high-quality fabricated PCMs and car computer modules at FLAGSHIP ONE , INC. They offer PCMs, ECMs and other car computer modules for various brands and models. 

FlagshipOne

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I Replaced PCM for o2 heater circuit ( PCM was only puttin 4 volts to o2 heater) PCM fixed heater DTC’s, now I have p0132 and data shows 5.00 volts at all times. o2 unplugged, signal wire has 5v reference coming from PCM. NOW i’ve went through the factory test chart for po132 over and over, after 2 -b1 s1 o2 sensors, ran new wiring to the o2 and PCM, Replace PCM with new, and the test always comes back to replace and reprogram PCM

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Chrysler DTC P0132

• O2 SENSOR 1/1 SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
• O2 SENSOR 1/1 RETURN CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
• O2 SENSOR 1/1 SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN/HIGH RESISTANCE
• O2 SENSOR 1/1 RETURN CIRCUIT OPEN/HIGH RESISTANCE
• O2 SENSOR 1/1
• POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)

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P0132 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage DRIVING ME BONKERS!!!!

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A few months ago I had all these mods done to the car (heads, cam, LTs, etc.) and when I initially got the car tuned my tuner told me I had a bad O2 sensor Bank 1 Upstream. I had a really hard time believing this because my car had like 4000 miles on it at the time. Sooo I bit the bullet and bought a brand new sensor from Dodge (NOT aftermarket). My tuner turned off the code through HP so I had no idea if it actually worked or not. Fast forward a couple months later when I got the car tuned by a different tuner and not too much driving in between... so the tuner and I are driving around town datalogging for part throttle driveability tuning and he says "dude your O2 sensor just took a sh1t." That's f---ing impossible!!! I just swapped it!!!! Well it turns out the problem is intermittent. He said sometimes it would be working and getting good readings, other times it would take a sh1t, with no real pattern. We both suspected the O2 extension as the possible culprit, so I bought a brand new extension from HHP, checked all wires and connectors for any obvious signs of damage and swapped it out. This was last night when I did this. I drove home (about 20 miles) with no codes popping up. When I got back in the car this morning to go to work the check engine light popped up (within 10 seconds of the car starting) and sure enough there was code P0132. I waited for the car to warm up and by the time I pulled out of my drive way the code itself was gone but the idiot light was still on. The light never went off but there is no stored code. What am I missing? What else can I troubleshoot? I have a hard time believing a second BRAND NEW O2 sensor is bad. And I have a hard time believing a second BRAND NEW O2 extension is bad. None of this adds up. Any ideas???? Thanks guys...  

Check the pins on the sensor,extension and factory plugs. See if one is loose or broken. Being that heads were done look for the ground wires and make sure that they are tight. Grounds are a must with these cars. Make sure the harness wires to the sensors were not pinched and/or arcing. Happens alot when doing heads. Make sure no wires are coming in contact with the headers, they get hot enough to melt the insulation on the wires and could be arcing. To my knowledge tuners CAN NOT turn off upstream 02 sensors as that is the ones that control the A/F ratio Rears can be turned off with no harm to the tune. Also the upstream sensor usually does not require an extension, its the downstream ones  

Allow me to clarify, the first tuner did not turn off the sensor. He said he turned off the code from popping up. I was just under the car last night and did not notice any damage to the insulation. The wires are well enough away from any heat sources such as the headers themselves. I checked the harness to the PCM and did not notice anything out of the ordinary. No burned wires or messed up connections from what I could tell. So the ground wire you're speaking of... which are you talking about? Is there a ground from the harness to the chassis or the head? Or does it ground through the PCM? And about the extensions, I have them for all O2 sensors not just the rears. Oddly enough when I bought the new O2 sensor the wires were actually shorter than the factory one.  

The ground wires would be on the back of the heads from what i recall. I keep thinking about my 06 build and seeing ground wires that bolt to the head and harnesses that run back there that would get pinched by accident when doing heads Shorter wires than from factory? Maybe they are for a different year or model car? Maybe just a revised sensor but I would think so, did the partsman say anything about needing extensions?  

I was not informed about needing extensions. It's possible that the O2 wires are still long enough with the factory sensor location on OEM headers. The sensor I bought was what they gave me when I provided my VIN, so I'm assuming it's the correct sensor. I will have to investigate the ground connection and see if that is the issue. It would make perfect sense if it was not tight enough and making intermittent contact.  

Yes the tuner can turn off the O2 sensors. Not a good idea for a DD. IMO it could result in damaging the engine. Extensions are required for aftermarket headers and normally are provided with the headers. X2 it may be a pin pushed in a the connector or wire was pinched during the head swap. I've been there with both. I ended up pinning out the O2 harness to find the the short. The shop manual for your mode/year has an electrical schematic. If all else fails, consider replacing the engine wiring harness.  

How do you pin out the harness itself? Which shop manual are you talking about? Looking on the Dodge website all they have is an Owner's Manual, drive mode supplement, UConnect manual and user guide. Nothing about wiring diagrams.  

Maybe YouTube can show you how to pin out the connectors... Shop manuals can be found on line. LxF Knowledge Base forum may have one. Or post up, maybe someone will help. Or do you have a friend in a private shop who has All Data. I'm confused, do you have AFTERMARKET LT headers or OE headers? Aftermarket needs extensions. Who ever did the head/cam/headers should be able to help with this issue????? GL!  

I have aftermarket headers and yes I have extensions. I'll have to investigate to see where I can find a manual. It's not too convenient for me to take the car back to that shop as they are located quite a bit out of the way but I haven't ruled that out. Thanks for the help so far  

ALCHARGER- extension are needed for the upstream 02 sensors with headers? I know they are needed for the downstream but did not realize needed for upstream also. Learn something new every day here !!  

Maybe other year models are different but on mine it would be physically impossible to connect my upstream O2 sensors to the harness without extensions. I believe on my 5.7 Charger I only needed the downstream extensions.  

I now have code P1128 too lean bank 1 (or closed loop fueling not achieved). This didn't pop up until today much after I originally received the P0132 code. I don't know what the hell is going on with this damn thing and there is not much more I can do on my own. I tested the O2 sensors out with a torch and multi meter and the sensors are fine. I am just having the issue with this one sensor location for some reason. No driveability issues though. I have half a mind to just take it in to the dealership at this point... I'm really starting to wonder if something got effed up after getting the PCM unlocked by HP Tuners. I didn't start having problems until after all the modding. I hope I don't need a new PCM. I also have a code for bad thermostat (I have a 180 thermostat), but if that was causing any issues it should be on both banks and not just 1...  

Hopefully I'm not smoking crack here and I'm looking at the right side of the engine. Bank 1 is driver's side, correct?  

I thought Bank 1 was the side Cylinder 1 was on? Wouldn't that be the passenger side?  

From what I could find on the interweb... The cylinders are numbered from front to rear; 1, 3, 5, 7 on the left bank and 2, 4, 6, 8 on the right bank. The firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.  

I was partially right....cylinder #1 is on the passenger side for 2.7/3.5 V6 engines. Cylinder #1 is on the Drivers side for the 5.7/6.1 V8 engines. Sorry to interrupt!  

No big deal. At least I know for sure now.  

http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/p1128-chrysler-dodge/  

on hemi engines, bank 1 is left bank.  

Thanks for all the help Pete. Haven't had the opportunity to start troubleshooting yet but it looks straightforward enough from what you sent me. I'm gonna start by checking continuity on the O2 signal and return wires from the PCM harness to the O2 harness. The problem with this is I don't have this GPEC adapter it's requiring and they're very expensive. May have to rig something up that will not damage the PCM harness. But the procedure also says to check voltage. Not sure what it will be with my problem being intermittent.  

try filing down a small paper clip to a thin, sharp point and use it to back probe the connector.  

Great idea, and cheap too haha  

• With the engine running.
• No O2 Sensor heater DTCs present.
• Oxygen Sensor 1/1 heater temperature within a specific range.
• Battery voltage greater than 10.4 volts.
• The Oxygen Sensor voltage is above the maximum acceptable value.
• The MIL light will illuminate.
• Perform the INTERMITTENT CONDITION diagnostic procedure. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure) .
• Repair the (K41) O2 Sensor 1/1 Signal circuit for a short to voltage.
• Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure) .
• Repair the (K902) O2 Sensor 1/1 Return Upstream circuit for a short to voltage.
• Verify that there is good pin to terminal contact in the O2 Sensor 1/1 and Powertrain Control Module connectors. If OK, replace the O2 Sensor 1/1. (Refer to 14 - Fuel System/Fuel Injection/SENSOR, Oxygen - Removal) .
• Repair the (K41) O2 Sensor 1/1 Signal circuit for an open or high resistance.
• Repair the (K902) O2 Sensor 1/1 Return circuit for an open or high resistance.
• Repair as necessary.
• Replace and program the Powertrain Control Module in accordance with the Service Information. (Refer to 08 - Electrical/8E - Electronic Control Modules/MODULE, Powertrain Control - Removal) .

Really wanted to get the wiring diag. but the copy doesn't show it??  

Looks like you have the same document that Pete sent me. Which diagram are you talking about? I don't think it shows the one that it calls the "complete" wiring diagram that it references from 28 which I don't see in that document. But I think what's there is enough to go off for most of the troubleshooting.  

Hey you're in my neck of the woods, imagine that. Relatively speaking anyway. Do you get involved in anything in the St Louis area? I've been looking for some more Mopar guys to come around. I'm basically the only one.  

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How To Test The Upstream Oxygen Sensor P0131, P0132, P0133 (GM 3.8L)

• By: Abraham Torres-Arredondo
• Created: 17 August 2012
• Updated: 19 August 2023
• Articl Id: 180

If the upstream oxygen sensor has failed, one of the most obvious symptoms besides the check engine light (CEL) being on, is really bad gas mileage.

In this article, I'll show you how to test the oxygen sensor (commonly known as the O2 sensor) without having to replace if first to see if it's good or bad. Since O2 sensors are not cheap, testing it before you replace it is a really good idea.

Your 3.8L GM vehicle comes equipped with 2 oxygen sensors, this article concentrates on testing the one that's before the catalytic converter ( O2S11 ).

Contents of this tutorial:

• Important Suggestions And Tips .
• Symptoms Of A Bad Oxygen Sensor .
• Oxygen Sensor Basics .
• Start Your Troubleshooting Here .
• Basic Upstream Oxygen Sensor Performance Test .
• P0131: O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1) .
• How To Diagnose Trouble Code P0131 .
• P0132: O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1) .
• How To Diagnose Trouble Code P0132 .
• P0133: O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1) .
• How To Diagnose Trouble Code P0133 .
• Oxygen Sensor Codes Keep Coming Back .
• More Test Articles .

Important Suggestions And Tips

TIP 1: A scan tool with Live Data capability is a must to be able to use the info in this article. A simple code reader won't help.

Now, you don't need the GM factory scan tool or an expensive professional technician level scan tool. A generic scan tool will do great and I've written this article with this tool in mind (Don't have a scan tool? Need a scan tool? check out my recommendation: Actron CP9580 Scan Tool Review ).

TIP 2: You won't have to remove the oxygen sensor to test it, since the test procedure I'm gonna' show you is an on-car test of the O2 sensor.

Symptoms Of A Bad Oxygen Sensor

The effects of a bad oxygen sensor can be very subtle since they usually do not cause serious drive-ability problems. Here are the most common symptoms:

• The check engine light (CEL) will be illuminated on your instrument cluster.
• P0131 Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S11) Circuit Out Of Range Low Voltage (Bank 1).
• P0132 Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S11) Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 1).
• P0133 Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S11) Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1).
• P0171 System Too Lean (Bank 1).
• P0172 System Too Rich (Bank 1).
• Really bad gas mileage.
• Won't pass state mandated emission testing.

Quite a few things can cause the above trouble codes to pop up and light up the check engine light (CEL) and since testing the O2 sensor is pretty easy, this tutorial will show you how.

Oxygen Sensor Basics

The O2 sensor that this article will show you how to test is the upstream oxygen sensor. This bad boy is located before the catalytic converter and is known as O2S11 which means: Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1 .

What does the O2 sensor do? Well, in a nutshell, the job of the upstream oxygen sensor is to report back to the PCM (Powertrain Control Module = fuel injection Computer) whether it's injecting too much fuel or not enough. Too much fuel means that the air fuel mixture is Rich and if not enough fuel is being injected, this means it's Lean .

Here are some more specifics:

If the PCM is injecting too much fuel into the engine, the oxygen sensor reports back just exactly how Rich the air/fuel mixture is by producing a voltage above 0.500 Volts. This voltage can go as high as 0.900 to 1.0 Volt. When the PCM gets this report, it immediately starts to cut back on the amount of fuel it's injecting into the engine.

As the PCM starts to inject less fuel, it may go too far and not inject enough. Since the O2 sensor is always watching, it reports this Lean condition to the PCM. Here again the O2 sensor saves the day by reporting a voltage that can go as low as 0.050 to 0.100 Volts. The voltages that the O2 sensor produces, in a Lean condition, range between 0.050 to 0.500 Volts (any voltage under 0.500 Volts is considered a Lean condition). When the PCM sees this Lean condition, it starts to inject more fuel.

This process of injecting more or less fuel, by the PCM, goes on the entire time the engine is running (and if the O2 sensor is working correctly).

What makes troubleshooting the oxygen sensor so easy, is that you can see it reporting these Lean and Rich conditions in Live Data mode on your scan tool (and this is how I'm gonna' show you how to test them).

The O2 sensor (as long as it's functioning correctly) will produce a voltage that will switch between a Lean and Rich condition several times every few seconds. So, if the O2 sensor has failed, it won't report any of these changes at all or it will respond very slowly.

To find out what are some of the most common symptoms of a failed oxygen sensor, take a look at the section: Symptoms Of A Bad Oxygen Sensor . OK, let's turn the page and let's get testing.

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• A Water Pump Coolant Leak Can Lead To Serious Engine Problems
• How To Test: P0112 OBD II Trouble Code (GM 3.8L)
• How To Test: P0113 OBD II Trouble Code (GM 3.8L)

Applies To:

• 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996
• 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005
• 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005
• 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
• 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004
• 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999
• 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993
• 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999
• 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002
• 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005
• 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005
• 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996
• 1989, 1990, 1991
• 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999
• 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996
• 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995
• 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992
• 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002
• 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005

P0132,P0138,P0152,P0158, O2 Sensor Circuit High

• O2 sensor signal circuit shorted to voltage.
• O2 sensor return circuit shorted to voltage.
• O2 sensor signal circuit open/high resistance.
• O2 sensor return circuit open/high resistan.
• Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

Diagnostic test P0132,P0138,P0152,P0158, O2 Sensor Circuit High

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Engine Code P0132

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Where is this Bank 1 Sensor 1 located? Thanks for your help. Mike  

bank one is driver side so your o2 sensor is not working did you do some mods on exhaust ?? hope that helps lol  

• The oxygen sensor heater circuit is shorted out
• The wiring to the sensor is broken / frayed (less likely)
• Check for wiring problems (shorted, frayed wires)
• Check the voltage of the oxygen sensor

I have had the code before on my dodge intrepid, and come to find out that it was some bad gas, I try making it a point not to gas up when the tanker is filling the tanks.  

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