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Muslim Travel Diary: How I Spent 5 Days in Jeju

As an avid fan of Korean dramas and K-Pop (any fellow ONCEs in the house?), travelling to South Korea is always a fun prospect for me. Although I’ve travelled to Seoul several times before, I only recently got to visit Jeju Island, and I only wished I visited the island sooner!

Jeju is an absolute gem in South Korea, with plenty of fun activities, captivating sights, and unforgettable experiences. However, I suppose one aspect of travelling to Jeju that might put some Muslims off is that it’s supposedly not as Muslim-friendly as other parts of South Korea. Thankfully, I was still able to plan my own trip there and, to my pleasant surprise, it wasn’t as difficult or inconvenient as some of my friends and relatives claimed.

Here’s how I spent five days in Jeju, South Korea’s most romantic island! Hopefully, it’ll help you to plan your own itinerary too!

Where to stay in Jeju + getting around the island

Upon recommendation from my friends, I stayed at a hotel on Nuwemaru Street , which is like a pedestrian shopping area — cafes, restaurants, and shops galore, all within a stone’s throw of each other. It’s pretty much like the city centre of Jeju, located in the north-central part of the island, just a half hour away from the airport. Another area that’s popular for tourists to stay at is Seogwipo , located in the south-central part of the island.

Both the city centre and Seogwipo are well-connected to other parts of the island by bus, which is the main mode of public transport. If you’re travelling mainly by bus, I recommend getting a T-Money Card for a more convenient way of paying your bus fares. Alternatively, you could also rent a car or join a tour bus. Most hotels in Jeju can help you with that.

Travel tip: While Jeju isn’t the biggest island in the world, it still takes around five hours to travel from one end to the other, so do keep these travel times in mind when planning your itinerary.

Day 1: Dongmun Market → Iho Taewoo Beach → Nohyung Supermarket

Image credit: Visit Jeju Official Website

My first official stop in Jeju was the famous Dongmun Traditional Market . Simply put, this bustling marketplace is a sensory overload punctuated by labyrinthine alleys, overflowing with colorful stalls selling fresh seafood, local produce, and an array of unique souvenirs.

There’s also plenty of street food here to fill your tummy with, including the famous tteokbokki (Korean rice cake) and eomuk (fishcake) stall that Blackpink visited on an episode of their weekly reality show “BlackPink House”.

Take note that most of the stalls here aren’t certified Halal. I was able to confirm with vendors whether or not something had pork or alcohol in it using my limited Korean but if you’re travelling with a guide that specialises in Muslim-centric tour groups, you’ll probably be in safer hands.

I managed to grab hwaetang (fried squid), hotteok (Korean pancake), some bread shaped like Jeju’s stone grandpa, and a hallabong (Jeju mandarin) juice, before shopping for some souvenirs — I recommend getting hallabong -flavoured snacks.

Image credit: Minerv via Canva Pro

After that, I headed to the stunning Iho Taewoo Beach which was about an hour away. This picturesque beach boasts turquoise waters, soft white sand, and breathtaking views, including an iconic horse-shaped lighthouse, a famous landmark of Jeju. ARMYs will probably recognise it from THAT Instagram photo uploaded by Jin (hint: it’s the “tattoo announcement photo”).

Finally, before heading back to my hotel, I stopped by Nohyung Supermarket , which is a special media art exhibition that uses the familiar setting of a supermarket to create an immersive and thought-provoking experience.

As I wandered through the five themed sections, I was greeted by various exhibits of lights, sounds, and colours. Naturally, I had to stop at some of the exhibits for some unique photos!

Day 2: Seongsan Ilchulbong → Maze Land → Snoopy Garden → Boromwat

My second day in Jeju started at Seongsan Ilchulbong , one of Jeju’s most popular natural attractions. Also known as Sunrise Peak, heading to Seongsan Ilchulbong to catch the sunrise is one of the top things to do in Jeju. Unfortunately, because the peak was two and a half hours away from my hotel, I wasn’t able to do that.

I did manage to reach the area early in the morning, so I decided to hike up to the top, from which I got to enjoy a stunning view of the ocean, the city below, and the misty crater of the peak itself. The hike itself isn’t too challenging but I did need around 50 minutes to reach the top. Thankfully, the hiking trail was quite pleasant, with plenty of greenery. There are also a few stops to rest at mid-hike.

After descending from Seongsan Ilchulbong, I boarded a bus to another one of Jeju’s top attractions: Maze Land . As the name suggests, this popular attraction (featured on Korean variety show Running Man ) is a themed park offering a fun and challenging experience for visitors of all ages, punctuated by its collection of different mazes.

The most famous maze is the Stone Maze, the world's longest stone maze, stretching up to 5.3km long. I’ll admit, it got a little bit disorienting at one point, but eventually, I managed to find my way to the exit. What helped make the experience more serene were the abundant trees around the area. There are also some photo spots in the area for that #potd and a museum you can visit.

A relaxing afternoon

After hiking and finding my way out of a maze, I decided to make the rest of my afternoon a little more chill. I headed to one of the newest attractions in Jeju, the Snoopy Garden for my next stop. Fans of BTS and Blackpink have probably seen this location before. After all, both Jimin and Jisoo have visited the area and shown it off on Instagram!

For those not in the know, the Snoopy Garden is where you can step into the whimsical world of Peanuts characters — childhood favourites like Snoopy, Charlie Brown, and the rest of the gang. There are multimedia exhibits here, spaced out in a museum-like setting, as well as various interactive photo zones.

Personally though, I liked the outdoor garden the most. Nestled between verdant greenery and colourful blooms were Peanuts installations that doubled up as popular photo spots, including the K-Pop-famous “Jimin/Jisoo photo spot” where the idols look out into a lake at the end of a pier with Snoopy. If you’re planning to take a similar photo, be prepared because there’s usually a long queue at that particular photo spot!

Image credit: Jeju Tourism Organisation Official Website

Finally, I ended my second day in Jeju by immersing myself in a floral paradise. The Boromwat Botanical Garden (featured prominently in Apink’s Remember music video) is a vast expanse of meticulously landscaped gardens teeming with diverse flora, from vibrant wildflowers to ancient trees.

In spring and fall when the weather is colder, you can see buckwheat flowers while summer brings with it colourful lavender and hydrangea fields! After breathing in the fresh air and taking in the scenery, I stopped by the Boromwat Cafe for a quick coffee before heading back to the city centre.

Day 3: 9.81 Park → Saebyeol Friends → Hwansang Forest → O’Sulloc Tea Museum (mention Camelia Hill)

The next day, I travelled in the opposite direction of day 2, towards the western edge of Jeju. My first stop was arguably the highlight of my trip. 9.81 Park is a relatively new attraction in Jeju that offers an adventurous day best enjoyed with a group of friends.

The main highlight of this integrated smart playpark is the thrilling Gravity Racing track where you hop on a go-kart and race down a winding track pulled by gravity! If you’re with your friends, you can actually compete to see who gets to the finish line in the shortest time! It’s one of the best new things to do in Jeju in my opinion!

Apart from that, there are also AR games, laser tag, and other adrenaline-pumping rides, like a 360-degree swing. There was also a unique cafe where the coffee was served by a robot arm! Plus, fans of NCT and RIIZE might also recognise this location as RIIZE members, Sungchan and Shotaro (formerly of NCT) had also visited 9.81 Park in episode 1 of their What's Up SUNGSHO vlog series!

After the exciting morning, I decided to take it easy. I headed next to Saebyeol Friends , a farm filled with cuddly animals located at the foot of Saebyeol Oreum, one of Jeju’s top attractions. Here, you get to interact with adorable farm animals (like sheep and alpacas) and enjoy a relaxing stroll through a garden.

Becoming one with nature

Next, I headed to one of the most popular K-Pop locations in Jeju, the Hwansang Forest Gotjawal Park , where famous K-Pop idol groups like BTS and Twice have visited for filming and photoshoots (BTS’s The Most Beautiful Moment in Life , Pt. 2 album shoot and Twice’s Signal music video).

Beyond being a backdrop in K-Pop albums, the Hwansang Forest is actually a remarkably rare and captivating natural treasure, featuring a distinct landscape of volcanic rock and low-lying vegetation that’s hardly found anywhere else in the world. The forest's unique geology and vegetation create a mesmerising landscape, with moss-covered rocks, winding paths, and pockets of lush greenery that make it a great place for forest bathing and therapeutic hikes, which make for some of the most soothing things to do in Jeju.

I never really understood the Korean concept of “healing” until I took a stroll under the canopy of trees here. As I breathed in the fresh air, I really did feel the stress leaving my body. And, if you want more healing experiences, there is a foot bath experience here called the Damyang Cafe, where you can soak your feet in a plant oriental foot bath.

After this enriching experience, I headed to the popular O’Sulloc Tea Museum , one of Jeju’s most popular attractions. Here, I took some time to admire the rolling hills and tea plantations before I headed into the museum for a glimpse into tea production in Jeju. My favourite part though was shopping for tea-flavoured products at the museum shop, where you can find anything from tea leaves to breakfast spreads, chocolates, and more!

Day 4: Oedolgae→ Saesom Island → Yeomiji Botanical Garden → Seogwipo Healing Forest

Image credit: Noppasin Wongchum via Canva Pro

I filled my fourth morning in Jeju with yet more coastal vistas, this time travelling to Seogwipo and visiting Oedolgae , an Insta-worthy 80m columnar rock located along a coastal cliff. Designated as a National Cultural Heritage Scenic Site in 2011, the rock formation, sculpted by winds and wave erosion, is one of the must-see sights in Jeju, especially since it was featured as another location for BTS’s The Most Beautiful Moment in Life , Pt. 2 album shoot.

One thing I noticed about the area was that it can sometimes get particularly windy because of its coastal geography. So you may want to bring a jacket if you’re someone who easily gets cold.

Image credit: artran via Canva Pro

Afterwards, I headed towards Seogwipo Port where I walked to Saeseom Island using the Saeyeongyo Bridge , the longest pedestrian overpass in the area. Even before I got to the island, I was already excited because the bridge had appeared in one of my all-time favourite Korean dramas — Extraordinary Attorney Woo !

It’s the episode where Kwon Min-Woo and Choi Soo-Yeon go out to buy drinks before the former takes a photo of the latter in a heart-fluttering moment. Although granted, it looked more romantic in the drama because the scene was shot at night, when the bridge is illuminated!

Once on the island itself, I took a stroll along the beautiful coastline, where I admired the sea views and the colourful flowers along the trail. I can see why it’s such a popular place to visit, the views were breathtaking! The ocean breeze made it even more relaxing.

Experiencing the healing forest

After returning from Saeseom Island, I travelled to Yeomiji Botanical Garden where K-Pop girl groups Apink and Oh My Girl once filmed their music videos. Here, you will find the largest greenhouse garden in Asia! Combined with its vast outdoor garden, the area is home to over 2,300 diverse flora, from fragrant roses to exotic cacti, all displayed in several themed zones.

The floral haven is also known for its fresh air that epitomises the charms of the island as a whole. Definitely one of my top recommended things to do in Jeju!

Finally, as the afternoon rolled around, I headed inland toward the Seogwipo Healing Forest . This was an attraction that most of my friends recommended. As the name suggests, the Healing Forest is where you can find solace and rejuvenation as you reconnect with nature.

There are several scenic walking paths and themed zones here which you can explore at a leisurely pace while listening to the soothing sounds of the forest. However, I recommend joining a guided tour as the forest and its trails were meant to be experienced in certain ways for the best effect. I shan’t spoil you, but one of the sections included lying down on a relaxing hammock!

All in all, this serene forest was the perfect ending to a day of exploration.

Day 5: Geum Oreum → Hyeopjae Beach

On my final day in Jeju, I decided to let my inner ONCE run wild by visiting the filming location of Twice’s (arguably) most iconic song, Signal . It was none other than the picturesque Geum Oreum , Jeju’s famous volcanic cone where one can enjoy stunning views of the surrounding landscape, including the ocean and nearby cities!

I decided to hike to the top (it only took me about 20 minutes), where I saw the postcard-worthy crater, a 1,200m expanse of verdant greenery that took my breath away. I wish I could have stayed for the sunset (it’s what Geum Oreum is famous for) but I had to leave to catch my flight later in the afternoon.

Before heading to the airport though, I managed to squeeze in one last location, the sandy Hyeopjae Beach often visited by Korean celebrities and idols. Before you ask, no, I didn’t manage to see anyone famous there. What I did see, was a beautiful coastal vista complete with soft white sand underneath my feet. After taking some time to soak in my final moments in Jeju, I made for the airport to board my flight home with a heavy heart.

Muslim travel tips for Jeju

Things to eat in jeju.

As mentioned earlier in the article, many of the eateries in Jeju are not halal-certified. However, there is SOME good news. While heukdwaeji (Jeju Black Pork) is one of Jeju’s iconic dishes, the island is just as famous for its rich variety of seafood dishes. It IS an island after all!

To my pleasant surprise, most of the seafood dishes do not contain haram ingredients, despite the eatery not having halal certification. But I do understand if you’re still a bit apprehensive, so don’t worry, I’ve curated a list of the Muslim-friendly restaurants I ate at in Jeju for your reference.

Muslim-friendly restaurants in Jeju

If you want to be completely halal-compliant, then you’ll want to eat at Asalam Restaurant , one of the few and only halal-certified restaurants in Jeju. Located in the city centre (near where I stayed), Asalam Restaurant serves Yemeni cuisine — think falafel wraps, creamy hummus, and more. It also has a prayer room for Muslims!

Another popular restaurant is Bagdad , an Indian restaurant serving a variety of North Indian cuisine. It was hands-down my favourite restaurant in Jeju because of how flavourful everything was. Apparently, it’s one of the most famous restaurants in Jeju, popular even amongst non-Muslim locals! In fact, it was featured as a filming location for Lee Hyori’s “Hyori’s Homestay” reality show which featured IU as a special guest!

If you’re looking for some local Korean food (seafood mostly), look for these Muslim-friendly restaurants in Jeju: Bada Janchi , Bada Punggyeong , Jeju Ddukbaeki , Haechon , and more. You could also opt for vegan eateries like Jedaero Jeju . Some of the bigger hotel chains in Jeju, like Ramada or Grand Hyatt, also have some Muslim-friendly eateries on site.

Also read: Halal Food in Jeju: 15 Places to Visit When You’re Hungry

Where to pray in Jeju

When it comes to praying in Jeju, as I came to discover, you may find it just a little complicated. Technically, there is only one mosque in Jeju, and it’s located at the Jeju Islamic Center near the heart of the city. However, apart from that, you can also find prayer spaces at the airport, the aforementioned Asalam Restaurant , and at some of the major hotel chains on the island, namely WE Hotel , Shilla Hotel Jeju , Lotte Hotel Jeju , and Ramada Plaza Jeju Hotel .

Unfortunately, only a handful of attractions have prayer spaces available for Muslims, and these are Sunrise Lands , the popular Teddy Bear Museum , and Jeju Best Hill .

Final thoughts

And there you have it: A recap of how I spent five fruitful days in the beautiful island of Jeju! While I travelled to Jeju solo and found it easy enough to manage, I do recommend engaging the services of a tour guide that specialises in Muslim tour groups. It makes everything a whole lot easier, especially when it comes to meal times!

Despite that, if you’re looking to travel solo as I did, I hope this itinerary has given you at least a bit of inspiration as to how to plan your own journey!

Brought to you by Jeju Special Self-Governing Province

By HalalZilla

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Jeju - South Korea

@jeju-south-korea

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Description

Jeju Island, nicknamed “The Island of the Gods” is situated along the border of the Korean peninsula. It was created about 2 million years ago as a result of a series of volcanic eruptions. Today, mount Hallasan (the highest mountain in South... more

Jeju, South Korea

Wardah Restaurant is a MUST VISIT when you're in Jeju Island, South Korea, to have opened in Jeju

Doesn't the aroma of freshly brewed coffee make your day so much better? :D

A K-drama or Kpop fan? Here's why you should visit Bomnal Cafe in Jeju!

Have a relaxing experience with some great coffee at Bomnal Café – the best coffee shop in Jeju Island! Find out what's there on offer.

Jeju Island, nicknamed “The Island of the Gods” is situated along the border of the Korean peninsula. It was created about 2 million years ago as a result of a series of volcanic eruptions. Today, mount Hallasan (the highest mountain in South Korea) towers over it, and is visible from almost any part of the island.

Jeju is the perfect place for the explorer, the adventurer and the nature-lover. You can climb the peak of the dormant volcano Seongsan Ilchul-bong, hike the trails of Walk Olle, or explore the many cultural and religious sites around the city.

The stunning beaches are mostly accompanied by luxury resorts and hotels where people can sit back, relax, and enjoy themselves while gazing over the sunsets. Jeju is also a great place for foodies to discover and savor new and exciting flavors.

Nearby Airports

As the second largest airport in South Korea, Jeju International Airport serves many domestic and international destinations, namely China, Hong Kong, Taiwan, and Japan. The Jeju Tourist Board is considering adding prayer facilities in Jeju International Airport to cater to the growing number of Muslim tourists to the island. 

Halal Restaurants

Almost all restaurants in Jeju serve alcohol, but many restaurants provide Halal-friendly facilities in Jeju, like the Baghdad restaurant and Shabu Shabu, where only Halal meat is used. Some hotels also provide Halal-friendly facilities. Other Muslim-friendly facilities in Jeju are vegetarian and seafood options. Be careful to check before ordering if the restaurant serves pork or uses alcohol in any of their dishes!

There aren’t any mosques in Jeju at the moment but plans are being made to build one. In the meantime, the Jeju Islamic Centre has been dubbed a “temporary mosque”. Muslims can also find prayer facilities and other Muslim-friendly facilities at a few of the hotels in the island, so check them out before booking your rooms. 

Things to Do and See in Jeju

• HallasanLove LandHallim ParkCheonjiyeon WaterfalllHamdeok BeachNexon Computer MuseumHorse ParkEco Theme ParkFairy and Woodsman Theme Park
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• Halal Dishes
• Attractions

Map View Dynamic Map

Baghdad restaurant

38 Seogwang-ro 32-gil, Idoi-dong, Cheju, Jeju-do, South Korea

Asalam Restaurnt

대한민국 제주특별자치도 제주시 삼도2동 2-1

Rajmahal Indian Restaurant

261-13 Yeon-dong, Cheju, Jeju-do, South Korea

Bomnal Cafe

Aewollo 1(il)-gil, Aewol-eup, Jeju Island

• No Airport found.

Jeju Village Tour

Leisure Sports on Jeju Island

Will vary depending on the activity

Jeju Golden Bus City Tour

#23 Seondeok-ro, Jeju City, Jeju Special Self-Governing Province

Mount Hallasan and Volcanic Cones

Mt Hallasan, Jeju Island, South Korea 

Trekking through Jeju Olle and Saryeoni Forest

Will vary with each of the chosen trails

Indian food

Jeju Islamic Cultural Center

South Korea, Jeju-do, Jeju-si, Nohyeong-dong, Noyeon-ro, 42 1208 ??????

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15 Must-Try Muslim-Friendly Eateries In Jeju

Athirah A  •  Nov 15, 2023

Also known as the Hawaii of South Korea, Jeju Island is a must-visit destination in South Korea if you are looking for picturesque natural landscape. The island is home to a number of UNESCO World Natural Heritage sites such as Manjanggul Cave and Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak. If you're looking for halal eateries and restaurants in Jeju, here's a guide to Muslim-friendly restaurants in Jeju! You can also plan your trip to Jeju with our 5D4N Muslim-friendly Jeju itinerary !

P.S. Do note that some Muslim-friendly restaurants in South Korea serve bottled or canned alcoholic drinks as it is part of the local culture. We have indicated these where relevant, and have checked to ensure that no alcohol is used in the food or drinks prepared and served by the restaurant itself.

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1. Daewonga (대원가)

If you're in Jeju, the one thing that you absolutely need to eat is their speciality, seafood! And Daewonga serves mouth-watering seafood stews which you can share with your whole travel gang. One thing you shouldn't miss at Daewonga is their haemul cheongbol or seafood steamboat (KRW60,000) which has abalone, mussels, crab and squid all in one pot with kimchi broth.

#HHWT Tip: Once the soup is mixed with all the seafood, add a packet of ramen in to soak up its flavour.

The soup isn't too spicy and once the taste of all the seafood sinks into the mixture, the broth is so yummy. Although the price of the seafood steamboat is quite steep, each pot serves around 3-4 people, so you can definitely split the cost! If you'd like something more affordable, get their small abalone hotpot and other seafood soups which are priced at KRW13,000. They also serve Grilled Mackerel Fish which costs around KRW15,000.

Fun fact: Did you know that the seafood at Daewonga is freshly caught by Jeju’s famous haenyeo divers? So that definitely makes your meal there more special.

#HHWT Tip: Daewonga is in the list of Muslim-friendly eateries in Jeju, endorsed by the Jeju Tourism Organization. So, you can even request to do your prayers here!

Halal Status:  Only seafood dishes sold, no alcohol/meat is used in the preparation of food. Alcoholic drinks served in the establishment, so do dine at your own discretion.

Average Price: KRW13,000-75,000

Opening Hours: Open daily; 9AM - 9PM (Closed on 2nd and 4th Wednesdays of the month)

Address: 15, Donam-ro 16-gil, Jeju-si, Jeju-do (Korean: 제주특별자치도 제주시 도남로16길 15 재영)

Contact: +82-64-753-3030

P.S. Not sure where to stay in Jeju? We've rounded up 11 accommodations in Jeju for every budget !

2. Jeju Onuii (오누이회국수전복돌솥밥)

Jeju Onuii is known for its Abalone Hotpot Rice. Abalone is cooked in a different way here - it's sliced and then cooked in a hot stone pot with pumpkin and gingko. The best way to eat it is to mix all the ingredients together so you can taste everything in a single bite.

Each set of the abalone hotpot rice costs KRW15,000 and comes with mackerel and side dishes. Pretty affordable if you ask us! Once you're done with the dish, what the Koreans like to do is to add hot water to the leftover rice and drink it as soup.

While Jeju Onuii is not on the official list of Muslim-friendly restaurants in Jeju, the eatery only sells seafood and does not use any alcohol or meat in its cooking.

3. Choonsim's House (춘심이네)

Choonsim's House (or Chunsimine) is a Muslim-friendly restaurant specialising in Korean seafood dishes. The eatery is well-known for THIS hairtail fish. Can you believe it costs 78,000KRW?!

Have a taste of this exquisite fish and you’ll know why it’s so expensive. We’ll admit, we just couldn’t get enough of it! Its fresh taste is unlike anything we’ve tasted back home. Definitely a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

But if you’re on a tight budget, get the grilled mackerel instead! Chunsimine’s spread of side dishes are amazing too, so feel free to ask for seconds!

Halal status: Only the seafood dishes at Chunsimine are Muslim-friendly. Although they don’t serve pork, the other meat at the eatery is not halal-certified. Do note that separate utensils and cutlery may not be available. Alcohol is also served in the establishment so, do dine at your own discretion. You can also request to do your prayers here.

Average Price: KRW40,000

Opening Hours:  Open daily; 10.30AM - 8PM

Address: 16, Changcheonjungang-ro 24beon-gil, Seogwipo-si, Jeju-do (Korean: 제주특별자치도 서귀포시 안덕면 창천중앙로24번길 16 2층)

Contact: +82 64-794-4010

Choonsim's House

4. tammora (ramada plaza jeju).

The Ramada Plaza Hotel in Jeju is home to Tammora, a Muslim-friendly restaurant. What's great is that they have separate halal menus for Muslim travellers.

As most Muslim-friendly restaurants in Jeju serve only seafood, here’s where you can get your fix of halal bulgogi!

Trust us, every bite into their beef bulgogi will be a treat. Served on a hotplate, it was juicy and the marinade had the right balance. It was unlike anything we’ve eaten back home! Their set meal prices range from KRW29,500 to KRW55,000.

#HHWT Tip:  As the restaurant prepares their halal and non-halal meals separately, remember to call them to reserve your halal meals at least 3 days in advance so that they can get the halal meat ready in time.

Halal status: Halal menu available and cooked and prepared separately. Alcohol is served in establishment so do dine at your own discretion. You can request to do your prayers here.

Average Price: KRW25,000

Opening Hours: Open daily; 6.30AM - 10AM (Breakfast), 12PM - 2.30PM (Lunch), 6PM - 10PM (Dinner)

Address: 66, Tapdong-ro, Jeju-si, Jeju-do

Contact: Call +82-64-729-8380 (Reservations required min. 3 days before)

5. Jeju Asalam Restaurant (제주 아살람레스토랑), formerly Jeju Wardah Restaurant

This restaurant doesn't just serve up delicious Yemeni cuisine - it's helping to bridge bonds between Arabs and Koreans too! Owned by the Yemeni Muslim chef and his Korean wife, it's a taste of home for the Yemenis who live on Jeju (or mainland South Korea).

The owners previously ran Wardah Restaurant, but they have now moved to Asalam after selling Wardah off. The menu includes both Arab classics such as hummus, as well as Yemeni specialities like lamb and chicken kabsa, and lamb soup.

Credit: Asalam Restaurant

The prices are also quite affordable for the portion and taste of the food - it's definitely worth a visit if you're on the north side of Jeju Island! They also have a prayer space available including wudhu (ablution) facilities and prayer mats. Do remember to bring your own prayer garments.

Halal Status: Only halal ingredients used. Alcoholic beverages may be served separately in the establishment so do dine at your own discretion. Prayer facilities in establishment.

Average Price: KRW12,000

Opening Hours: Open daily; 12PM - 10PM (Closed on 1st and 3rd Wednesdays every month)

Address: 7 Jungang-ro 2-gil, Jeju-si, Jeju-do

Contact: +82-6-4751-1225

Jeju Asalam Restaurant

6. bada janchi (바다잔치).

Similar to most Muslim-friendly eateries on this list, Bada Janchi is another option to get your seafood fix!

One dish you have to try here is their specialty galchi jorim or braised cutlassfish (KRW38,000). If you're on a tighter budget, they also serve grilled mackerel (KRW20,000) and mackerel stew (KRW25,000) which will remind you of "asam pedas" back home!

Those of you who love eating raw fish can try their their assorted sashimi (KRW60,000). Not to mention that they serve excellent side dishes too which you can ask for more. The owners are also known to be very friendly, so do have a chat with them!

Halal status: Only seafood dishes sold, no alcohol/meat used in preparation of dishes. Alcohol is served in establishment, so do dine at your own discretion. Prayers facilities in establishment.

Average Price:  KRW35,000

Opening Hours: Open daily; 8AM - 9.30PM

Address: 79, Tapdong-ro, Jeju-si, Jeju-do (Korean: 제주특별자치도 제주시 탑동로 79)

Contact: +82-64-702-8989

Bada Janchi

7. bagdad restaurant.

Who knew you could find scrumptious northern Indian cuisine in Jeju? And better still, it serves halal food! If you’re missing a taste of home just a little bit, head over to Bagdad Cafe and Restaurant Jeju for some finger-licking Indian food.

We highly recommend getting the Tandoori Chicken and Butter Chicken to eat with your naan bread. We just couldn’t get enough of the butter chicken and even ordered a second serving.

#HHWT Tip:  After you’re done with that delicious Indian meal, order a mango lassi for a refreshing finish!

Halal status: Halal ingredients used. Alcohol is served in the establishment, so dine at your own discretion!

Average Price:  KRW15,000

Opening Hours: 11AM - 11PM (Tues-Sun), closed on Mondays

Address: 38, Seogwang-ro 32-gil, Jeju-si, Jeju-do (Korean: 제주특별자치도 제주시 서광로32길 38)

Contact: +82-64-757-8182

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Bagdad Restaurant

8. wilala (윌라라).

Did you know you can get a taste of Australia while in Jeju? Wilala is the place to go if you're craving some Australian-style fish and chips! If you're not a fan of Fish and Chips, this Muslim-friendly eatery also offer a plethora of fried options including the Deep-fried Shrimp, Deep-fried Jeju Cuttlefish, Deep-fried Calamari, and Chicken & Chips!

Halal status: The seafood menu is Muslim-friendly and they do not serve pork. Do note that separate utensils and cutlery may not be available. Alcohol is also served in the establishment so, do dine at your own discretion.

Average Price: KRW15,000

Opening Hours: Open daily; 12PM-6PM

Address: 33 Seongsanjungang-ro, Seongsan-eup, Seogwipo-si, Jeju-do, South Korea

Contact: +82 50-71404-5120

9. Jeju Ttukbaegi (제주뚝배기)

Another spot to satisfy your seafood needs is Jeju Ttukbaegi! This restaurant is on the list of Korean Tourism Organisation's list of Muslim-friendly restaurant in Jeju. They offer a wide variety of seafood options, including their signature Seafood and Abalone Stew in Hot Pot. The restaurant offers halal menu options so you won't have to worry when paying them a visit! This spot is perfect for a family lunch or dinner, so get ready to warm yourself up with their hot pot dishes and grilled fish.

Halal Status: Muslim-friendly - halal menu available. Alcoholic drinks served in establishment, so do dine at your own discretion Prayer facilities are available in establishment - do remember to bring your own prayer garments

Average Price: KRW16,000

Opening Hours: Open daily; 7:30AM-7PM

Address: South Korea, Jeju-do, Seogwipo-si, 특별자치도, Seongsan-eup, Ilchul-ro, 255 KR

Contact: +82 64-782-1089

Jeju Ttukbaegi

10. rajmahal (라지마할).

Craving for some Indian cuisines? Rajmahal is your go-to Indian restaurant in Jeju! Listed under KTO's list of Muslim-friendly restaurant in Jeju, Rajmahal serves a plethora of delectable Indian cuisines, ranging from Naans that comes with creamy Butter Chicken to Tandoor Chicken. From their exquisite Indian cuisine menu to the exotic interior, this restaurant is the perfect place for families or travellers who misses Indian cuisines!

Halal Status: Muslim-friendly - halal menu available. Prayer facilities are possible in establishment - do remember to bring your own prayer garments.

Average Price: KRW10,000

Opening Hours: Open daily; 11:30AM-11PM

Address: South Korea, Jeju-do, Jeju-si, Yeon-dong, Singwang-ro, 43 2층

Contact: +82 64-749-4924

11. Bada Punggyeong (바다풍경)

Bada Punggyeong is another Muslim-friendly eatery that offers an array of seafood options at a reasonable price! Located near the ocean, this restaurant is the perfect place if you want to indulge in seafood while enjoying the ocean view.

From raw to grilled seafood options, you'll be spoilt for choice at Bada Punggyeong! For first-timers, you can opt for their speciality Seaweed Soup with Sea Urchin or the Grilled Mackarel, which is a signature dish loved by many, and pair it with rice for the perfect meal. This is a great place for couples or families wanting to try classic Korean cuisines with a view!

Halal Status: Muslim-friendly - halal options available. Alcoholic drinks served in establishment, so do dine at your own discretion Prayer facilities are available in establishment - do remember to bring your own prayer garments

Opening Hours: Open daily; 10AM-11PM

Address: 제주특별자치도 제주시 서해안로 654, 513-2 Yongdamsam-dong, Jeju-si, Jeju-do, South Korea

Contact: +82 64-711-7992

Bada Punggyeong

12. jeju daege hoe town(제주대게회타운).

Situated near the iconic Yongduam Rock, Jeju Daege Hoe Town is another great eatery with an ocean view! Visitors can choose from an array of seafood set menu options, including their signature Jeju Snow Crabs!

This restaurant is perfect for big families to come together and enjoy a hearty seafood meal while admiring the panoramic views of the Jeju sea.

Halal Status: Muslim-friendly - halal options available. Alcoholic drinks served in establishment, so do dine at your own discretion. Prayer facilities are available in establishment - do remember to bring your own prayer garments.

Average Price: KRW45,000 for Snow Crabs

Opening Hours: Open daily; 10AM-10PM

Address: 1003-9 Yongdamsam-dong, Jeju-si, Jeju-do, South Korea

Contact: +82 64-747-9289

Jeju Daege Hoe Town

13. dasoni (다소니).

Dasoni is a great place if you're looking for vegan versions of Korean food. This restaurant offers delicious variety of Korean food in a rustic, peaceful setting, making it perfect for travellers who wants to eat in a quiet atmosphere. They offer a variety of vegan menu options including bibimbap, noodle soups, and rice porridge.

Halal Status: Muslim-friendly - vegan options available. Prayer facilities are available in establishment - do remember to bring your own prayer garments.

Average Price: KRW9,000

Opening Hours: Open daily; 11AM-8PM

Address: 24 Onam-ro 6-gil, Jeju-si, Jeju-do, South Korea

Contact: +82 64-752-5533

14. Haechon

If you're looking for a great view of the mountains while you sip on some delicious abalone stew, this is the place for you! Located near the Sungsanilchulpong hiking trail, warm yourself up with their spicy seafood stew or their abalone rice porridge. There is also clearly marked halal and Muslim-friendly dishes for you to enjoy as well!

Halal status: Muslim-friendly - halal options available. Alcoholic drinks served in establishment, so do dine at your own discretion.

Opening Hours: Mon-Sun; (7.30AM - 9PM)

Address: 220, Ilchul-ro, Seongsan-eup, Seogwipo-si, Jeju-do

Contact: +82 64-784-8001

15. Jeju Cafe 901

Cafe 901 serves up delicious healthy bowls, detox drinks and foods as well as vegan and vegetarian offerings. It's a great place to grab some snacks or a fresh juice off the counter while you continue on your journey around Jeju Island.

Halal status: Vegan. No alcohol or meat products used in their cooking.

Opening hours: Wed-Sat (9AM - 6PM)

Address: 2977-10, 1100-ro, Jeju-si, Jeju-do

Contact: + 82 10-9469-9022

There you go! We've got you covered with Muslim-friendly restaurants in Jeju, so you're all set for your trip to Jeju! If you're heading to Seoul as well, make sure you check out our 5D4N Muslim-friendly Seoul-Jeju itinerary too .

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[Jeju] Customizable Private Muslim Friendly Tour W Korean Guide K-drama spots

• Private transportation
• Air-conditioned vehicle
• Pickup and drop-off from your hotel for free of charge(Only in Jeju city downtown)
• Professional guide with explanation on Jeju culture
• All taxes, fuel surcharges and service fees included
• Recommendation for tourism spots & restaurants(Halal&Muslim friendly)
• Taking a photos for guests
• Arrangement of meeting with Korean Muslim&Visit to Jeju Islamic culture center
• Entry/Admission - Jeju Island
• Food and drinks
• Pickup upto 40km away from airport:additional charge 33USD(40,000KRW)
• Pickup over 40km away from airport :additional charge 48USD(60,000KRW)
• Entry/entrance fee for tourism spots
• Hotel or designated location within downtown Jeju City. - Pickup can be arranged outside of downtown Jeju City but an additional charge is payable directly to your guide in cash.
• Not wheelchair accessible
• Near public transportation
• Infants must sit on laps
• Confirmation will be received at time of booking
• Not recommended for travellers with back problems
• No heart problems or other serious medical conditions
• Travellers should have a moderate physical fitness level
• This experience requires good weather. If it’s cancelled due to poor weather, you’ll be offered a different date or a full refund
• This is a private tour/activity. Only your group will participate
• For a full refund, cancel at least 24 hours in advance of the start date of the experience.
• You'll get picked up See departure details
• 1 The Planet Jeju Stop: 9 hours - Admission included Explore Jeju island as a small group, discovering its beautiful nature and UNESCO sites. Read more
• You'll return to the starting point

• E6151OPdianah 0 contributions 4.0 of 5 bubbles Thank you Unique experience. Thank you. Friendly service Nearby nice view for taking photos Many varieties. Nice weather because we went in Spring Read more Written 28 April 2024
• Zac C 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles A fun experience with Miya It was a fun time with Miya (owner) and Daniel (photographer). Daniel is not only the photographer, he is also gave a private tour and history about the places where the photos were taken.. I was unable to decide on the theme and Miya is friendly and helped with the choices of hanbok and accessories. The photos came out good!! It’s a nice experience walking around the historical sites in hanbok with Miya & Daniel.. being treated like a princess… Read more Written 23 March 2024
• Drew D 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Great photo experience Great experience with professional photographer. For an hour I felt like a star. The costume was cool and they also bring some accessories. Read more Written 24 September 2023
• Companion58896843127 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Amazing 😍😍😍 Me and my friends went here , had a lot of fun there all day, miya very nice place mesmerizing atmosphere. I shared the experience as all my friends spoke very well about Miya Read more Written 19 May 2023
• S77TAjasminet 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Fun & memorable experience in Jeju There is a wide selection of hanboks for both males and females (including plus sizes), and all of them were beautiful. Miya was really accommodating and helpful, from the selection of the hanboks to putting them on and styling of hair for the girls. She also followed us on the photoshoot and helped to tidy our hair/ hanbok when necessary. Daniel was also great in keeping us relaxed and natural for the shoot, and provided some background on Yongduam Pond as well. He definitely overdelivered on his promises (in terms of the number of photos and time to receive them), and the photos turned out beautiful! This was one of the main highlights of my family's trip, and would highly recommend this to anyone visiting Jeju. Read more Written 15 April 2023
• alleynguyen 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Totally satisfied during the photoshoot It was an interesting experience and activity during my days in Jeju island. Miya was really friendly and helpful in suggesting me hanbok and she also gave me information about the Korean's hanbok. Daniel - the photographer was nice and his English is very well. He gave me much more details about Yongduam pond and made me feel comfortable during the photoshoot. Overall, I did enjoy the time spending there and really satisfied Read more Written 15 April 2023
• Curiosity40820058478 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Must try when visit Jeju island It's worth the way and I'm totally satisfied with everything. Miya was helpful and friendly though. She patiently waiting for me choosing the hanbok and helped me a lot during that day. The photographer (his name is Daniel if I'm not mistaken) spoke english really well and gave me a lot of information about the yongduam pond as well as showed me how to pose. 5 stars <3 Read more Written 13 April 2023
• 493liny 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Unforgettable hanbok experience Miya is very kind and can communicate in Chinese👍 There are so many beautiful traditional and new-style hanboks, making it difficult to choose. Accessories are also very beautiful and Miya will help you make the most suitable match. Read more Written 9 April 2023
• Z6639KUhannahj 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Beautiful fun experience The couple who runs this are kind and knowledgeable, they made the whole experience fun from start to finish! I cannot recommend it enough! Read more Written 4 April 2023
• Roving42661577187 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Best way to see Jeju is with Daniel I debated booking a solo tour because the group tours seemed so sufficient, but I am so glad we did. We saw more of Jeju and learned about what we were experiencing in the moment. I opted for the hotel pickup, which was very helpful. Daniel was a very responsive and effective communicator. He listened to our desires, consulted us on what was reasonable and then fit in as much as possible. He really does know the best places to eat (yes, I am a foodie), but also took us to amazing vistas, historical spots, and his recommendations for beaches and places for us to explore on our own were solid. After a day, we are impressed with his services and thrilled to call him friend. We will forever remember Jeju. Read more Written 20 March 2023
• Younghwan L 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Unforgettable memory We enjoyed ourselves so much ! Miya is so friendly and there’s so many pretty hanbok for u to choose from. Thank you for such a beautiful day. Read more Written 10 March 2023
• F7434LO_ 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Best Choice to experiece Hanbok in Jeju Miya is a nice lady and the costume quality with lots of choices and Color, amazing After photo shoot , she guide mr how to use a Korean version taxi app , she is really kindness and helpful Read more Written 8 March 2023
• G6461YNolivias 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Beautiful Hanbok exerience Miya’s hanboks were handmade and very beautiful. She even helps you with your hair and provide accessories. We could wear them out and take photos :D it was a rainy day when I went and the floor outside was wet but Miya was very nice Read more Written 21 February 2023
• garyyB5910MW 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Awesome experience Daniel is an amazing guide. My family and I had a one day tour planned and in that short amount of time, Daniel made sure that we had the best possible experience. He was very knowledgeable, and informative. We went to places that we would have never gone to on our own. We had such a great experience, that I look forward to going back to Jeju (staying longer) and planning another tour with Daniel. Read more Written 18 January 2023
• lowelltan 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Amazing tour Daniel was very friendly and we managed to fulfill all places we wanted to go! He also gave us mini quizzes during the tour which helped us learn much about Jeju. Plus point was the food! The lunch spot he brought us to was really good and felt like a truly authentic shop. He even gave us a recommendation for our dinner. Read more Written 9 January 2023

More to explore in Jeju Island

Most Recent: Reviews ordered by most recent publish date in descending order.

Detailed Reviews: Reviews ordered by recency and descriptiveness of user-identified themes such as waiting time, length of visit, general tips, and location information.

[Jeju] Customizable Private Muslim Friendly Tour W Korean Guide K-drama spots provided by The Planet Jeju

Claudia Looi

Touring the Top 10 Moscow Metro Stations

By Claudia Looi 2 Comments

Komsomolskaya metro station looks like a museum. It has vaulted ceilings and baroque decor.

Hidden underground, in the heart of Moscow, are historical and architectural treasures of Russia. These are Soviet-era creations – the metro stations of Moscow.

Our guide Maria introduced these elaborate metro stations as “the palaces for the people.” Built between 1937 and 1955, each station holds its own history and stories. Stalin had the idea of building beautiful underground spaces that the masses could enjoy. They would look like museums, art centers, concert halls, palaces and churches. Each would have a different theme. None would be alike.

The two-hour private tour was with a former Intourist tour guide named Maria. Maria lived in Moscow all her life and through the communist era of 60s to 90s. She has been a tour guide for more than 30 years. Being in her 60s, she moved rather quickly for her age. We traveled and crammed with Maria and other Muscovites on the metro to visit 10 different metro stations.

Arrow showing the direction of metro line 1 and 2

Moscow subways are very clean

To Maria, every street, metro and building told a story. I couldn’t keep up with her stories. I don’t remember most of what she said because I was just thrilled being in Moscow.   Added to that, she spilled out so many Russian words and names, which to one who can’t read Cyrillic, sounded so foreign and could be easily forgotten.

The metro tour was the first part of our all day tour of Moscow with Maria. Here are the stations we visited:

1. Komsomolskaya Metro Station  is the most beautiful of them all. Painted yellow and decorated with chandeliers, gold leaves and semi precious stones, the station looks like a stately museum. And possibly decorated like a palace. I saw Komsomolskaya first, before the rest of the stations upon arrival in Moscow by train from St. Petersburg.

2. Revolution Square Metro Station (Ploshchad Revolyutsii) has marble arches and 72 bronze sculptures designed by Alexey Dushkin. The marble arches are flanked by the bronze sculptures. If you look closely you will see passersby touching the bronze dog's nose. Legend has it that good luck comes to those who touch the dog's nose.

Touch the dog's nose for good luck. At the Revolution Square station

Revolution Square Metro Station

3. Arbatskaya Metro Station served as a shelter during the Soviet-era. It is one of the largest and the deepest metro stations in Moscow.

Arbatskaya Metro Station

4. Biblioteka Imeni Lenina Metro Station was built in 1935 and named after the Russian State Library. It is located near the library and has a big mosaic portrait of Lenin and yellow ceramic tiles on the track walls.

Lenin's portrait at the Biblioteka Imeni Lenina Metro Station

5. Kievskaya Metro Station was one of the first to be completed in Moscow. Named after the capital city of Ukraine by Kiev-born, Nikita Khruschev, Stalin's successor.

Kievskaya Metro Station

6. Novoslobodskaya Metro Station  was built in 1952. It has 32 stained glass murals with brass borders.

Novoslobodskaya metro station

7. Kurskaya Metro Station was one of the first few to be built in Moscow in 1938. It has ceiling panels and artwork showing Soviet leadership, Soviet lifestyle and political power. It has a dome with patriotic slogans decorated with red stars representing the Soviet's World War II Hall of Fame. Kurskaya Metro Station is a must-visit station in Moscow.

Ceiling panel and artworks at Kurskaya Metro Station

8. Mayakovskaya Metro Station built in 1938. It was named after Russian poet Vladmir Mayakovsky. This is one of the most beautiful metro stations in the world with 34 mosaics painted by Alexander Deyneka.

Mayakovskaya station

One of the over 30 ceiling mosaics in Mayakovskaya metro station

9. Belorusskaya Metro Station is named after the people of Belarus. In the picture below, there are statues of 3 members of the Partisan Resistance in Belarus during World War II. The statues were sculpted by Sergei Orlov, S. Rabinovich and I. Slonim.

10. Teatralnaya Metro Station (Theatre Metro Station) is located near the Bolshoi Theatre.

Teatralnaya Metro Station decorated with porcelain figures .

Taking the metro's escalator at the end of the tour with Maria the tour guide.

Have you visited the Moscow Metro? Leave your comment below.

January 15, 2017 at 8:17 am

An excellent read! Thanks for much for sharing the Russian metro system with us. We're heading to Moscow in April and exploring the metro stations were on our list and after reading your post, I'm even more excited to go visit them. Thanks again 🙂

December 6, 2017 at 10:45 pm

Hi, do you remember which tour company you contacted for this tour?

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The Moscow Metro Museum of Art: 10 Must-See Stations

There are few times one can claim having been on the subway all afternoon and loving it, but the Moscow Metro provides just that opportunity.  While many cities boast famous public transport systems—New York’s subway, London’s underground, San Salvador’s chicken buses—few warrant hours of exploration.  Moscow is different: Take one ride on the Metro, and you’ll find out that this network of railways can be so much more than point A to B drudgery.

The Metro began operating in 1935 with just thirteen stations, covering less than seven miles, but it has since grown into the world’s third busiest transit system ( Tokyo is first ), spanning about 200 miles and offering over 180 stops along the way.  The construction of the Metro began under Joseph Stalin’s command, and being one of the USSR’s most ambitious building projects, the iron-fisted leader instructed designers to create a place full of svet (radiance) and svetloe budushchee (a radiant future), a palace for the people and a tribute to the Mother nation.

Consequently, the Metro is among the most memorable attractions in Moscow.  The stations provide a unique collection of public art, comparable to anything the city’s galleries have to offer and providing a sense of the Soviet era, which is absent from the State National History Museum.  Even better, touring the Metro delivers palpable, experiential moments, which many of us don’t get standing in front of painting or a case of coins.

Though tours are available , discovering the Moscow Metro on your own provides a much more comprehensive, truer experience, something much less sterile than following a guide.  What better place is there to see the “real” Moscow than on mass transit: A few hours will expose you to characters and caricatures you’ll be hard-pressed to find dining near the Bolshoi Theater.  You become part of the attraction, hear it in the screech of the train, feel it as hurried commuters brush by: The Metro sucks you beneath the city and churns you into the mix.

With the recommendations of our born-and-bred Muscovite students, my wife Emma and I have just taken a self-guided tour of what some locals consider the top ten stations of the Moscow Metro. What most satisfied me about our Metro tour was the sense of adventure .  I loved following our route on the maps of the wagon walls as we circled the city, plotting out the course to the subsequent stops; having the weird sensation of being underground for nearly four hours; and discovering the next cavern of treasures, playing Indiana Jones for the afternoon, piecing together fragments of Russia’s mysterious history.  It’s the ultimate interactive museum.

Top Ten Stations (In order of appearance)

Kievskaya station.

Kievskaya Station went public in March of 1937, the rails between it and Park Kultury Station being the first to cross the Moscow River.  Kievskaya is full of mosaics depicting aristocratic scenes of Russian life, with great cameo appearances by Lenin, Trotsky, and Stalin.  Each work has a Cyrillic title/explanation etched in the marble beneath it; however, if your Russian is rusty, you can just appreciate seeing familiar revolutionary dates like 1905 ( the Russian Revolution ) and 1917 ( the October Revolution ).

Mayakovskaya Station

Mayakovskaya Station ranks in my top three most notable Metro stations. Mayakovskaya just feels right, done Art Deco but no sense of gaudiness or pretention.  The arches are adorned with rounded chrome piping and create feeling of being in a jukebox, but the roof’s expansive mosaics of the sky are the real showstopper.  Subjects cleverly range from looking up at a high jumper, workers atop a building, spires of Orthodox cathedrals, to nimble aircraft humming by, a fleet of prop planes spelling out CCCP in the bluest of skies.

Novoslobodskaya Station

Novoslobodskaya is the Metro’s unique stained glass station.  Each column has its own distinctive panels of colorful glass, most of them with a floral theme, some of them capturing the odd sailor, musician, artist, gardener, or stenographer in action.  The glass is framed in Art Deco metalwork, and there is the lovely aspect of discovering panels in the less frequented haunches of the hall (on the trackside, between the incoming staircases).  Novosblod is, I’ve been told, the favorite amongst out-of-town visitors.

Komsomolskaya Station

Komsomolskaya Station is one of palatial grandeur.  It seems both magnificent and obligatory, like the presidential palace of a colonial city.  The yellow ceiling has leafy, white concrete garland and a series of golden military mosaics accenting the tile mosaics of glorified Russian life.  Switching lines here, the hallway has an Alice-in-Wonderland feel, impossibly long with decorative tile walls, culminating in a very old station left in a remarkable state of disrepair, offering a really tangible glimpse behind the palace walls.

Dostoevskaya Station

Dostoevskaya is a tribute to the late, great hero of Russian literature .  The station at first glance seems bare and unimpressive, a stark marble platform without a whiff of reassembled chips of tile.  However, two columns have eerie stone inlay collages of scenes from Dostoevsky’s work, including The Idiot , The Brothers Karamazov , and Crime and Punishment.   Then, standing at the center of the platform, the marble creates a kaleidoscope of reflections.  At the entrance, there is a large, inlay portrait of the author.

Chkalovskaya Station

Chkalovskaya does space Art Deco style (yet again).  Chrome borders all.  Passageways with curvy overhangs create the illusion of walking through the belly of a chic, new-age spacecraft.  There are two (kos)mosaics, one at each end, with planetary subjects.  Transferring here brings you above ground, where some rather elaborate metalwork is on display.  By name similarity only, I’d expected Komsolskaya Station to deliver some kosmonaut décor; instead, it was Chkalovskaya that took us up to the space station.

Elektrozavodskaya Station

Elektrozavodskaya is full of marble reliefs of workers, men and women, laboring through the different stages of industry.  The superhuman figures are round with muscles, Hollywood fit, and seemingly undeterred by each Herculean task they respectively perform.  The station is chocked with brass, from hammer and sickle light fixtures to beautiful, angular framework up the innards of the columns.  The station’s art pieces are less clever or extravagant than others, but identifying the different stages of industry is entertaining.

Baumanskaya Statio

Baumanskaya Station is the only stop that wasn’t suggested by the students.  Pulling in, the network of statues was just too enticing: Out of half-circle depressions in the platform’s columns, the USSR’s proud and powerful labor force again flaunts its success.  Pilots, blacksmiths, politicians, and artists have all congregated, posing amongst more Art Deco framing.  At the far end, a massive Soviet flag dons the face of Lenin and banners for ’05, ’17, and ‘45.  Standing in front of the flag, you can play with the echoing roof.

Ploshchad Revolutsii Station

Novokuznetskaya Station

Novokuznetskaya Station finishes off this tour, more or less, where it started: beautiful mosaics.  This station recalls the skyward-facing pieces from Mayakovskaya (Station #2), only with a little larger pictures in a more cramped, very trafficked area.  Due to a line of street lamps in the center of the platform, it has the atmosphere of a bustling market.  The more inventive sky scenes include a man on a ladder, women picking fruit, and a tank-dozer being craned in.  The station’s also has a handsome black-and-white stone mural.

Here is a map and a brief description of our route:

Start at (1)Kievskaya on the “ring line” (look for the squares at the bottom of the platform signs to help you navigate—the ring line is #5, brown line) and go north to Belorusskaya, make a quick switch to the Dark Green/#2 line, and go south one stop to (2)Mayakovskaya.  Backtrack to the ring line—Brown/#5—and continue north, getting off at (3)Novosblodskaya and (4)Komsolskaya.  At Komsolskaya Station, transfer to the Red/#1 line, go south for two stops to Chistye Prudy, and get on the Light Green/#10 line going north.  Take a look at (5)Dostoevskaya Station on the northern segment of Light Green/#10 line then change directions and head south to (6)Chkalovskaya, which offers a transfer to the Dark Blue/#3 line, going west, away from the city center.  Have a look (7)Elektroskaya Station before backtracking into the center of Moscow, stopping off at (8)Baumskaya, getting off the Dark Blue/#3 line at (9)Ploschad Revolyutsii.  Change to the Dark Green/#2 line and go south one stop to see (10)Novokuznetskaya Station.

Check out our new Moscow Indie Travel Guide , book a flight to Moscow and read 10 Bars with Views Worth Blowing the Budget For

Jonathon Engels, formerly a patron saint of misadventure, has been stumbling his way across cultural borders since 2005 and is currently volunteering in the mountains outside of Antigua, Guatemala.  For more of his work, visit his website and blog .

Photo credits:   SergeyRod , all others courtesy of the author and may not be used without permission

Is Russia recruiting Muslim migrants to fight its war in Ukraine?

Moscow appears to be flouting its own laws to boost its forces, targeting foreign workers from Central Asia.

Kyiv, Ukraine – In mid-October, Mamut Useinov performed on Sing Better Than a Star, a popular Russian television show for aspiring singers on the state-controlled Channel One network.

“I’ve been anticipating this and can’t hide my excitement,” the 25-year-old from annexed Crimea wrote on Telegram on October 15, as he thanked “the Almighty” for the chance.

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But Useinov’s way to stardom was cut short.

Five days after the broadcast, Useinov went to a “prayer house”, a type of informal mosque that offers a place to worship in the absence of officially sanctioned places for prayer.

Heavily armed riot police officers detained him along with several dozen men who gathered for the Muslim Friday prayer in Kotelniki, an overpopulated southeastern suburb of Moscow where labour migrants settle because rent is cheap.

All the men were forced into a police bus for an ID check and taken to a military conscription office in the nearby town of Lybertsy, according to Useinov and media reports.

There, they underwent a medical evaluation that deemed Useinov “fit for military service”, despite flat feet and a recent surgery, he said.

They were reportedly shipped to a military base east of Moscow and given a choice – go to jail or enlist.

“We were all told that we have to sign one-year contracts, otherwise – jail,” he said in a Telegram-posted video on October 21, without specifying the charges they may face.

He fears that once they sign the contract, the men will be sent to the front lines in Ukraine, the nation where Useinov was born and whose national he was, before accepting Russian citizenship in 2014, he wrote.

“During a morning lineup, I heard we would all be send to the special military operation,” he wrote using the Kremlin’s preferred euphemism for the war in Ukraine.

In a video he posted, he is seen in a small room filled with men next to bunkbeds listening to an elderly ethnic Russian man in camouflage.

One more video shows the courtyard of a large building whose sand-coloured brick walls are adorned with a Russian flag and a banner reading, “Devotion to the motherland.”

He went incommunicado on October 22.

At the time of publishing, Useinov had not responded to Al Jazeera’s requests for comment.

He has been taken to yet another military base for basic training, his representative told the Astra telegram channel on October 23.

Laws ignored

What Useinov described blatantly violated Russian rights legislation.

The men were detained and denied access to lawyers. They were told about being conscripted without receiving a written notification issued by the conscription office where each man is registered – and then signed by the recipient.

The men had no chance to overrule the forced conscription in court – or voice their objection to military service. Conscientious objectors have a right to an alternative service in Russia.

“This procedure violated all of my rights,” Useinov wrote.

Dire demographic problems and oil wealth turned Russia into a magnet for millions of labour migrants from ex-Soviet Central Asia.

Some Crimean Tatars , a Muslim community of about 200,000 in the annexed peninsula, became part of this influx as they share ties with Turkic-speaking nations of Central Asia, a region their forefathers had been deported to en masse in 1944.

Meanwhile, Russia’s mostly Muslim, impoverished and corruption-choked North Caucasus is one of the few regions with high birth rates, and hundreds of thousands also move to Moscow and other big cities.

But attending a mosque almost anywhere in Russia can be complicated and sometimes dangerous.

Moscow only has five official mosques, and tens of thousands of believers throng areas around them during Muslim holidays, putting their prayer mats on the asphalt or even tram tracks.

Most labour migrants choose to attend informal “prayer houses”, which some locals and police see as hotbeds of “extremism”.

These houses have mushroomed because authorities routinely do not sanction new mosques, even though Muslims are Russia’s fastest-growing population stratum.

While the Kremlin tries to revive its Soviet-era clout in the Middle East, courting Muslim leaders and calling Islam one of Russia’s “traditional religions”, Russian police snub religious rules and rights during their raids on prayer houses.

They do not take their boots off, interrupt prayers, shower believers with slurs, and spray them with tear gas, according to dozens of reports, photos and videos.

Far-right role

Russian far-right nationalists help organise raids on “prayer houses”, in an apparent effort to kill two birds with one stone.

They see the forcible conscription of Muslims as a way to rid Russia of unwanted “aliens” and help the faltering war effort, according to analysts.

Zov (Call), a group whose closed Telegram channel has 141,000 subscribers, routinely informs police about Muslim gatherings – and proudly announces raids, detentions and deportations.

“Just now, police visited two illegal mosques organised in apartment buildings. More than 70 people were rounded up. Awaiting deportation,” one of Zov’s posts said.

The group is led by Andrey Tkachuk, head of a small media group in Moscow, and Andrey Afanasyev, a former staffer of the Tsargrad television channel whose oligarch owner Konstantin Malofeyev has been sanctioned in the West as a sponsor of separatists in Ukraine’s Donbas region.

Muslim labour migrants have faced hate attacks, arbitrary detentions and arrests, police brutality, extortion and threats for decades.

But after the Kremlin realised that its blitzkrieg in Ukraine failed amid disastrous losses of manpower, it threw a new curveball their way.

As part of a nationwide series of raids dubbed “Illegal 2023”, police have been combing construction sites, markets, farms, restaurants, apartment buildings, hostels and “prayer houses” – or simply rounding up anyone who does not look Slavic, according to rights groups and media reports.

During ID checks, they find “problems” – both imaginary and real, such as a lack of registration, a blurred stamp, or an expired work permit.

The migrants are locked up and forced to enlist in military service, facing several kinds of threats to ensure their cooperation, an expert said.

Shukhrat Ganiyev, a human rights advocate based in the central Uzbek city of Bukhara, told Al Jazeera that the pressure put on migrants included “threat of deportation of [their] families from Russia, the planting of drugs, an intolerable atmosphere for business”.

He said some Uzbeks had signed contracts for construction jobs in the Russia-occupied southern Ukrainian city of Mariupol, but then ended up on the front line – “and were not heard of since”.

Police in St Petersburg, Russia’s second-largest city and President Vladimir Putin’s hometown, said they handed conscription papers to 56 migrants with Russian passports after just one raid on a market on September 6.

A month earlier, about 100 migrants were served with conscription papers, it said.

The Illegal 2023 investigations are “tied to organisation of illegal migration, trade in drugs and psychotropic substances, arms trade and border crossings”, Ministry of Internal Affairs spokeswoman Irina Vovk said.

Another way of forcing Muslim migrants into the trenches has been to deny Central Asians citizenship – a red Russian passport eliminates many of the problems with police and bureaucratic hurdles that migrants face.

In one case, migration officials turned down an application from a Tajik man whose mother is a Russian national, according to rights advocate Tatyana Kotlyar.

The man was told to enlist first, even though as a father of five he cannot be drafted, she said.

In another case, an Uzbek man whose wife and child are Russian nationals, was told that “without a [military] contract and participation in the special military operation, they won’t even accept his citizenship application,” Kotlyar, who is based in the city of Obninsk 120km (75 miles) southwest of Moscow, told Al Jazeera.

Both men did not reply to Al Jazeera’s request for comment.

And in Kaluga, a region of more than one million people, some 200km (124 miles) south of Moscow, foreign workers have been barred from submitting citizenship applications in recent months unless they enlist, Kotlyar said.

Officials at the Kaluga migration office refused to comment on her claim.

And even if a migrant already has a Russian passport, recently adopted laws allow authorities to take it away with ease.

“If you are a Russian national but are not ready to fulfil your military duty, a decision should be made to strip such a man of his citizenship,” Russia’s top investigator Aleksander Bastrykin told a military conference in mid-October.

Bastrykin said earlier that migrants have a “constitutional duty to defend the nation that accepted them” and that enlisting them should be a “priority”.

There have even been calls to abolish age limits for migrants so that they can be forced to serve in the military. The conscription age in Russia is between 18 and 30.

“You became a Russian national at age 50 – go serve at 50,” nationalist lawmaker Aleksey Zhuravlyev said on October 24.

Muslim migrants are among the most vulnerable people in Russia, said Sergey Abashin, a migration expert and anthropologist based in St Petersburg.

They are often subject to the whims of police officers and officials because they “always” have problems with their documents, he said.

“The [Russian] legislation’s very design makes it impossible to have absolutely ‘clean’ documents,” he said.

The migrants are also dependent on the goodwill of their employers, as many work without the permits to do so.

Meanwhile, public opinion is dominated by rampant nationalism, xenophobia and often portrays Muslim newcomers as hostile and alien, he said.

“The sum of these dependencies makes migrants easily victimised,” he said.

Very few make their cases public, fearing persecution of their families, rights advocates have said, adding the immigrants are accustomed to authoritarian rule and police brutality in their countries of origin, often know little about their civil rights in Russia, do not have access to lawyers, and may not speak much Russian.

Shortage of front-line manpower

Where there is a stick, there follows a carrot – promises of hefty pay and a Russian passport.

“Since at least May 2023, Russia has approached Central Asian migrants to fight in Ukraine with promises of fast-track citizenship and salaries of up to $4,160,” the British Defence Ministry said in September.

In September 2022, Putin signed a decree that gives Russian nationality to anyone who has served on the front line for six months.

The first Uzbek national taken prisoner in Ukraine said he was driven by financial interest, according to a Ukrainian media report .

Lying on his back in a camouflaged coat, Mukhriddin Akhmedov, a 22-year-old student from the central Uzbek city of Samarkand, said he joined the Redoubt military company because he “needed money”.

He said that “one more Uzbek” had joined the company.

Looking ahead, the Russian military faces a shortage of manpower on the front lines after heavy casualties in the so-called “meat storms” on Ukrainian positions, experts have said.

The shortage is exacerbated by Russia’s catastrophically low birthrates and a population loss of hundreds of thousands of people a year in the rapidly aging nation of 143 million.

“By waging the war in Ukraine via the tactics of ‘meat storms’ and thus suffering heavy losses of manpower, the Russian military began experiencing a lack of cannon fodder,” Alisher Ilkhamov, head of the London-based Central Asia Due Diligence group, told Al Jazeera.

Although their forcible conscription has undermined earlier official steps to limit Central Asia natives’ access to firearms – for years, Central Asian migrants were denied permits to buy hunting rifles – the political risk to Russian leaders is minimal.

So far, there has only been a single public incident associated with the forced conscription of migrants.

Last October, two Tajik nationals were forcibly sent to a training camp before departure to Ukraine.

After the men, Ekhson Aminzoda and Mekhrob Rakhmonov, heard their commanding officers “insult their religion”, they got hold of a machine gun and killed 11 people and injured 15 others.

The two were shot dead and pronounced “terrorists” by authorities.

Meanwhile, the Kremlin is afraid to declare a second round of mobilisation in advance of the March 2024 presidential election, he said.

The September 2022 “partial” mobilisation triggered an exodus of hundreds of thousands of Russian men, making migrants more attractive targets.

“In such conditions, the emphasis is on recruiting migrants, as their loss on the front line will not affect Russia politically or economically,” Ilkhamov said.