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Official travel guide to Estonia

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Attractions

Must-see attractions.

Niguliste Museum

Dating from the 13th century, the imposing St Nicholas' Church (Niguliste kirik) was badly damaged by Soviet bombers in 1944 and a fire in the 1980s, but…

Estonian Open-Air Museum

This sprawling ethnographic and architectural complex comprises 80 historic Estonian buildings, plucked from across the country and resurrected in…

This futuristic, Finnish-designed, seven-storey building is a spectacular structure of limestone, glass and copper that integrates intelligently into the…

Tallinn Town Hall

Completed in 1404, this is the only surviving Gothic town hall in northern Europe. Inside, you can visit the Trade Hall (whose visitor book drips with…

Great Guild Hall

The Great Guild Hall (1410) is a wonderfully complete testament to the power of Tallinn's medieval trade guilds. Now a branch of the Estonian History…

Kuressaare Episcopal Castle

Western Estonia & the Islands

Majestic Kuressaare Castle stands facing the sea at the southern end of the town, on an artificial island defended by stone-faced earth bastions and…

Kadriorg Art Museum

Kadriorg Palace, a baroque beauty built by Peter the Great between 1718 and 1736, houses a branch of the Art Museum of Estonia devoted to Dutch, German…

Seaplane Harbour

Kalamaja & Telliskivi

When this cavernous, triple-domed building was completed in 1917, its reinforced-concrete shell-frame construction was unique in the world. Resembling a…

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The essential guide to visiting Estonia

Here’s everything you need to know about exploring this compact Baltic nation—when to go, where to stay, what to do, and how to get around.

Why you should visit Estonia  

Medieval marvels in Tallinn ’s Old Town . Lively street art in Tartu . Golden-sand beaches in Pärnu . The 160 islands of Vilsandi National Park .  

Best time to visit Estonia  

Spring:   Canoe through the forests of Soomaa National Park during the “ fifth season ,” when the park floods between March and April. Estonia ranks second in Europe for bird diversity. Spot six species of eagle, and eight of the nine European woodpecker species in Matsalu National Park and Nõva Nature Reserve . Bring your binoculars in March for the spring migration that peaks in mid-May.  

Summer: Head to the Estonian Open Air Museum in Tallinn to take part in the Midsummer ( Jaanipäev   ) festivities with bonfires and folk music on the eve of June 23. This is the time to sample seasonal Estonian foods, such as Arctic char and the sweetened curd dessert kohuke. Relax in one of the many spas on Saaremaa island.  

Autumn: Spot brown bears in Alutaguse National Park or go for a bog shoe walk in Estonia’s wetlands. Admire the achievements of modern design at the week-long Tallinn Design Festival (Disainiöö) in September.  

Winter: Munch on Estonian gingerbread cookies while sipping hot mulled wine at one of the Christmas markets in Tallinn , Tartu , or smaller cities . With no mountains—Estonia’s highest point Suur Munamägi   rises to 1,043 feet— Pärnu ’s windy and flat coastline offers ideal conditions for winter kiteboarding.  

Lay of the land  

Cities: Rent a bike to explore Tallinn’s medieval Old Town. A mile away, the 173-acre Kadriorg Park   is home to contemporary   and international art museums. Telliskivi Creative City   is the site of the famed photography museum Fotografiska .   Tartu, the oldest city in the Baltics, has a rich street art scene. Join a tour or use the street art map to find them solo. Spa towns such as Narva-Jõesuu and Pärnu offer winter and summer beachside activities such as fatbiking, kicksledging, and ice fishing.  

East:   Lighthouses, colorful cottages, and old mansions dot the area around Lake Peipus , the largest lake to connect two countries in Europe. Learn about the Russian Old Believers’ (Russian Orthodox traditionalists who fled persecutions across the border in the 17th century) traditions, such as samovar tea ceremonies and handicrafts, at the Peipsimaa Heritage Center or take a tour of the 17th-century Alatskivi Castle .  

( On this matriarchal European island, ancient customs thrive .)

South: Wander through the streets of Viljandi, the folk music center of southern Estonia, during medieval fairs, music and heritage festivals, and Hanseatic Days .  

West: The historic spa towns Pärnu and Haapsalu hug the coast of the Baltic Sea in western Estonia. Take a ferry to one of the dozens of islands in the West Estonian Archipelago , where you can hike or bike through juniper groves or tour 19th-century lighthouses and windmills.  

North: Discover a mix of cutting-edge galleries and medieval Hanseatic architecture in the country’s capital and biggest city, Tallinn. Drive 50 miles east of town to tour the ornate grounds of Palmse Manor in Lahemaa National Park , the first and largest park in Estonia.  

Getting around Estonia  

By plane: There are domestic flights between Tallinn Airport and regional hubs, including Kuressaare airport in Saaremaa.  

By bus: LuxExpress is the primary provider in Estonia. Buy tickets via the app or the Tpilet website.

By train: Eesti Raudtee (EVR) is the state-owned railway company that operates between main cities. Purchase tickets on Elron.ee , at the stations, or o the train. Travel time from Tallinn to Tartu is just over two hours.  

By car: Highways T1, T2, T4, and T11 connect the main cities. T1 is the main national road connecting Tallinn with Narva. As in most European countries, motorists drive on the right-hand side of the road in Estonia.

By ferry: Regular ferries connect larger islands, including Saaremaa, Hiiumaa , and Kihnu .   Tour operators sail from Tallinn to the smaller islands and cruise ships to Helsinki and Stockholm.  

Know before you go  

Languages: Estonian is the official language. Russian is the most spoken minority language.  

LGBTQ+: Same-sex couples can legally marry and jointly adopt starting January 1, 2024, making Estonia the first ex-Soviet state to legalize same-sex marriage.  

How to visit Estonia sustainably  

Outdoors:   The State Forest Management Centre (RMK) provides an app for all free camping sites in the country and hiking trails. Help preserve the forests by staying on the main trail, road, or marked spurs.  

With 50 percent of the nation covered by forest, Estonia is a forager’s dream. The Estonian State Forest Management Centre has compiled a list of best mushroom and berry picking spots nearby camping areas across the country. Not sure what to pick? Go foraging with a local guide .  

Shopping: Tallinn is a treasure trove for vintage shopping. Favoring locally made products, Estonians have a long tradition in producing art in fiber, woodwork, and pottery. Look for shops marked with the Certified Estonian Artisanal Craft label from the Estonian Folk Art and Craft Union to ensure authenticity.

Dining: Eco-friendly dining spots are popping up in the capital city and elsewhere. Search for eco-tourism quality label “ EHE ” (Genuine and Interesting Estonia) that shows the restaurant is making sustainable choices. Find an abundance of local flavors at farmers markets in Viimsi , Lõunakeskus , Pärnu , and Saaremaa .  

What to read  

The Ropewalker , by Jaan Kross. The leading Estonian writer’s historical novel tells the tale of Balthasar Russow, a chronicler and witty social climber from the 16th century.  

Estonian Folk Tales , edited by Piret Päär and Anne Türnpu. This collection of dark stories offers a glimpse into the Estonian psyche.  

Estonia: A Modern History , by Neil Taylor. The University of Estonia professor charts the country’s turbulent history, from Danish, Swedish, German, and Russian occupation to its present-day prosperity.

( For more tips on what to do in Estonia, see our Explorer’s Guide .)

Related Topics

• CITY GUIDES
• CITY BIKING
• WALKING TOURS

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Puhkusereisid

Reisipakkumisi kokku: 688

Puhkusereisid kõigilt suurimatelt Eesti reisikorraldajatelt.  Lai valik,  soodsad hinnad,  väikesed sissemaksed,  järelmaksu võimalus!

3 PÕHJUST, MIKS OSTA PUHKUSEREIS GO TRAVELIST:

• oleme tuntud ja turvaline Eesti reisibüroo
• meil on hea valik ja soodsad hinnad
• puhkusereisi broneerimisel teenustasu ei lisandu

Go Travelis maksavad puhkusereisid sama palju kui otse reisikorraldajalt ostes, kuid valida saad mitme reisikorraldaja vahel. Suures valikus aitavad orienteeruda professionaalsed reisikonsultandid, kes tunnevad Eesti reisikorraldajate sihtkohti ja hotelle ning oskavad Sulle kõigis puhkust puudutavates küsimustes nõu anda.

Vahendame ainult kvaliteetsete reisikorraldajate puhkusereise, mistõttu võid Go Traveli reisivalikut usaldada. Oleme pika ajalooga ja kodumaine reisibüroo. Kuulume 100% Eesti omanikele ning oleme turul juba alates aastast 1992. Go Travel on osa Go Groupist, mis koos  Go Busi ,  Go Hotel Shnelli  ja  Go Railiga  moodustab Eesti suurima turismikontserni.

Ei taha valmis reisipaketti?

Pole probleemi – mõtleme ka kastist välja! Kui Eesti reisikorraldajate valik Sind ei rahulda, paneme Sulle kokku ka eritellimusel reisiprogramme. Meie portfoolios on kõike ümbermaailmareisist alates ja rohkem kui 7000kilomeetrise Peking-Delhi maismaaretkega lõpetades. Räägi ainult, mida soovid!

Kampaaniad:

Suvine kruiis ajaloolisesse Visby vanalinna

Hind al. 94.00  €

Hotellipakkumised:

!KAMPAANIA!

Viimase hetke reisid

Hind al. 275.00  €

Kreeka, Rhodos

Päikesesaar Rhodos

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Kreeka, Kreeta

Klassikaline ja armastatud Kreeta

Hind al. 305.00  €

Bulgaaria – mõõnadeta puhkus

Noortele ja paaridele, lastevaba suvepuhkus

Tuline ja tõeline Türgi

Hind al. 335.00  €

Mägede maa Montenegro

Hind al. 365.00  €

Tuneesia – värav idamaade eksootikasse

Hind al. 385.00  €

Põhja-Küpros

Hind al. 499.00  €

Kreeka, Korfu

Rõõmus ja roheline Korfu

Hind al. 565.00  €

Puhkusepaketid Küprosele

Hind al. 629.00  €

Türgi, Bodrum

Bodrum – iseloomuga sadamalinn Türgis

Hind al. 637.00  €

Uus sihtkoht – Albaania

Hind al. 639.00  €

UUS sihtkoht – Thassose saar

Hind al. 649.00  €

Egiptus, Sharm El Sheikh

Sharm El Sheikh – Egiptus igale maitsele

Hind al. 710.00  €

24h klienditugi +372 524 4222 tallinn@mycwt.com -->

CWT Estonia (endine Kaleva Travel, asutatud 1991) on üks Eesti juhtivaid reisibüroosid. Meie eesmärk on tagada klientidele kvaliteetne, turvaline ja optimaalsete kuludega reisikorraldus.

CWT Estonia kuulub rahvusvahelisse reisiettevõttesse CWT, mis on spetsialiseerunud ärireiside, konverentside ja ürituste korraldamisele ja on tegev enam kui 145 maailma riigis. 2018 aastal p älvis CWT World Travel Awards`il tunnustused “Maailma juhtiv ärireisibüroo 2018” ja “Euroopa juhtiv ärireisibüroo 2018”.

Kui hindate kogemust ja pühendumist ning soovite, et teid ja teie ettevõtet teenindaksid reisivaldkonna parimad asjatundjad, siis võtke palun lepingu sõlmimiseks meiega ühendust: [email protected] , tel 640 7737.

Soome ranged reisipiirangud kehtivad kuni 27. juunini

Piiriületaja deklaratsioon tuleb täita enne eestisse sisenemist, eesti turismifirmade liidu ja cwt soovitused turvaliste reisiteenuste tagamiseks, kogu info koroonatestimise kohta, reisitrendid, global business travel forecast 2024, cwt estonia lepingulise ärikliendi eelised:.

• Teie ettevõtet teenindavad personaalsed CWT Estonia reisikonsultandid, kes tunnevad teie reisivajadusi ja kokkulepitud teenindustingimusi.
• Reisikorralduse küsimustes nõustab ettevõtet CWT Estonia kliendihaldur, kes tagab lepingutingimuste järgimise.
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• Online süsteem ärikliendile lendude, hotellide ja rendiauto broneerimiseks. Süsteemis tehtud broneeringutele laieneb CWT Estonia konsultatsiooni- ja müügitugi.
• MyCWT reisiäpp – ainulaadne mobiilirakendus ärireisijatele. Äpp annab reaalajas infot lennuaegade, värava ja lennumuutuste kohta, hoiatab erakorralistest oludest sihtkohas,  võimaldab broneerida hotelle ja aitab kaardirakenduse abil sihtkohas hotelli leida, sisaldab transfeeride infot ja ilmaprognoose ning palju muud.
• MyCWT – veebipõhine profiil CWT reisijatele. Reisija omab ülevaadet reisibüroo kaudu teenusepakkujale edastatavatest andmetest ja saab neid ise muuta.
• 24/7 klienditugi. Klienditoe telefonile vastaval reisikonsultandil on juurdepääs kõikidele CWT Estonia broneeringutele ja andmebaasidele ja ta saab aidata reisijat reisiplaanide muutumise ja hädaolukordade korral.
• Tasuta reisialased koolitused ettevõtte reisikorraldajale ja reisijatele.
• Igakuine infokiri CWT ärikliendile.

Lennupiletid

Millised esemed on lubatud käsipagasisse ja millised äraantavasse pagasisse, cwt pakub 300 lennujaama äriklassi ootesaalide lounge passe, lennufirmade online check-in. pagasiinfo.

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VIIMASE HETKE REISID

Caves beach resort hurghada.

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Unistuste puhkus

Lõputu suvi egiptuses.

Naudi lõputut suve päikeselises Egiptuses! Avasta vaaraode pärand ja naudi Hurghada kuldseid liivarandu, korallide ja eksootiliste kalade ilu Sharm el-Sheikhis, avasta sukeldumishuviliste paradiisi Marsa Alamis või proovi parimaid lohelaua- ja purjetamiskoole Dahabis!

UUS SIHTKOHT - Kreeka!

KREEKA on ideaalne puhkusesihtkoht neile, kes armastavad romantikat ja loodust. Kreeta - riigi suurim saar - pakub võimalusi kvaliteetselt lõõgastuda kui ka aktiivselt kultuuri avastada. Rhodos on ideaalne saar neile, kes eelistavad veesporti või mõnusat rannapuhkust.

DUBAI – Kaasaegne muinasjutt tuhat ja üks ööd

Avasta kaasaegne muinasjutt 1000 ja 1 ööd Araabia Ühendemiraatides! Kuulsad rannad, mitmesugused teema- ja lõbustuspargid, huvitavad muuseumid, kaasaegne arhitektuur, suured ostukeskused - kõik imed ühes kohas!

Türgi 2024 hooaeg on avatud!

Antalya piirkond, tuntud ka kui Türgi Riviera, on eriti populaarne oma kaunite randade, alati kuuma päikese, mägise maastiku ja külalislahkete kohalike elanike poolest. Piirkonna populaarsed kuurordid Alanya, Belek, Side, Antalya ja Kemer pakuvad rikkaliku meelelahutusega hotelle igale maitsele. Unistuste puhkus kõigile pereliikmetele!

UUS SIHTKOHT - Montenegro!

Montenegro on tõeline Balkani pärl, mis meelitab reisijaid oma looduse, mägede, ülimalt puhta ja soolase Aadria mere poolest. Samuti rikkaliku ajaloopärandi ja kohalike eriti sõbraliku suhtluse poolest.

Reisikorraldaja Coral Travel Estonia

Ettevõte Coral Travel on üks turismivaldkonna liidreid, mis on tegutsenud 30 aastat, rohkem kui seitsmes riigis üle maailma. Samuti on grupi kontorid avatud meie naaberriikides Lätis ja Leedus. Coral Travel on üks suurimaid reisikorraldajaid Poolas ning ettevõttel on filiaal ka Saksamaal. Meie ettevõtte korraldab reise peaaegu 90 sihtkohta 38 riigis, peamiselt Türki, Kreekasse, Hispaaniasse, Egiptusesse, AÜE-sse ja Taisse. Coral Traveli teenuseid on tänaseks kasutanud ligikaudu 28 miljonit puhkusereisijat. Coral Travel – rahvusvahelised kogemused, teadmised ja tugevus.

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 TUI – üks maailma suurimaid reisikorraldajaid

Saksa päritolu reisikorraldaja TUI on tuntud oma äärmiselt laia sihtkohavaliku ja kvaliteetsete hotellide poolest. Lisaks juba eelnevalt kokku pandud reisipakettidele pakuvad nad lihtsalt majutust üle maailma nii hotellides kui ka villades, erinevaid lennupileteid, ekskursioone, transfeere, autorenti ja palju muud.

Et reisipaketid algavad Saksamaalt või Austriast, on see hea võimalus ühendada rannapuhkus mõnepäevase linnapuhkusega Viinis või Frankfurdis.

Estravel on TUI ametlik edasimüüja Eestis.

TUI kaubamärgi all tegutsevad erinevad reisikorraldajad nagu näiteks TUI Deutschland, Gulet Touristik ja airtours .  Selleks, et nii meil kui ka teil oleks lihtsam sobivaim puhkusepaik välja valida, on TUI-l erineva suunitlusega hotellid:

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ITAKA - ITAKAga on maailm ilus!

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Parimad pakkumised

Best seller hotellid, meie uudised, itaka nüüd ka lätis.

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Tutvuge meie sihtkohtadega!

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My Secret to Weeks of Free Lodging in Europe

I wanted to stay in apartments or houses—but i was a brand-new college grad on a budget.

This is One Thing , a column with tips on how to live.

After I graduated from college, I knew I wanted to travel for a few months, so I secured a part-time job that could be done remotely. I didn’t want to do my work shifts from a hostel bunk bed or random cafés that stayed open late. (I’d be in Europe, thanks to an EU passport, and my gig was based in the states.) Paying for Airbnbs the entire trip would eat up way too much of my paychecks. It was kismet that just as I was starting to plan my travels, my friend sent me a video about a couple traveling the world and dog-sitting along the way, using an app called Trusted Housesitters .

As an avid dog lover, I thought it was perfect. I paid a little over $100 to make an account, then started browsing housesits around the world. I adorned my profile with pictures of me and the various dogs in my life, and applied for opportunities across the ocean. Before I had even left the United States, I had three gigs set up: I’d spend about 10 days in Scotland and Wales, then three weeks in Amsterdam.

Just like when setting up drinks through a dating app, you do have to be vigilant and pay attention for red flags when talking to potential hosts. My stay in Scotland was less than ideal for many reasons—the situation could have been easily avoided if I had listened to my gut and declined that gig. (The app does do background checks, and there’s an opportunity for both sides to leave reviews, meaning you don’t go in completely unaware.) But the other dog-sits were fantastic. One experience went so well that last fall, I returned to Amsterdam to once again to dog-sit Pretzel, a lovely Maltipoo, while her parents got married and went on their honeymoon.

Although I opted for longer sits abroad, there is also the option to just watch a furry friend stateside for a weekend. (If you do go internationally, be mindful that you might potentially need a work or tourist visa.) I just checked the app, and as I’m writing this, there are opportunities available in cities that include Austin, Atlanta, and Boulder.

Of course, you have the responsibility of taking care of someone else’s dog—you need to do some planning and can’t just leave the pet alone all day, and the owners don’t pay you. But the free accommodations feel like a fair exchange to me. I also love that many of the dog-sit locations are in more residential areas, so you’re able to experience local life in whatever city you’re in. Plus, you get to hang with a cute dog. What could be better?

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My four-day rail and ferry adventure from the UK to Albania

From London to Tirana, via Chambéry’s medieval streets, bustling Bari and Albania’s dynamic capital, this trip across Europe has treats at every turn

M y overriding memories of crossing countries by train, on a trip from London to Albania, are of half-empty carriages and countryside sweeping past windows bathed in the soft orange glow of sunset. I remember cypress trees, red-roofed villages with square churches, farmland in neat strips and row upon row of vineyards.

On my London-Paris-Chambéry-Turin-Bari-Tirana journey over land and sea, there was, for long stretches, little to do. The wifi was patchy. It took a while to adapt to having so much time to simply watch the world go by, travelling through landscapes without having to navigate them.

The biggest stress happened long before I set off, when a landslide not far from the French border with Italy blocked the rail line between Chambéry and Turin, forcing a closure that continues today. Byway, the no-fly operator I had booked with, offered to reroute me through Nice and on to Turin via the Vermenagna valley (with changes in Tende and Cuneo), or book me on the FlixBus service over part of the Mont Blanc massif. I was keen to see Chambéry and the Alps, so I chose the bus.

People seemed surprised when I told them I was travelling overland to Albania. As I gushed about the romance of slow travel by train and sleeper ferry, and my excitement about Tirana, I got comments about being “brave”. I didn’t feel especially brave: all the planning, tickets and hotel bookings were done for me, and friendly help was a WhatsApp call away if needed.

I just had to download the Rail Planner app for my Interrail pass and make sure I was at the right station at the right time (Turin was the biggest challenge: it has four main railway stations and taxis scream between them bearing anxious-looking passengers).

The entire journey took four days. If I did it all again, I’d stay longer in Puglia, the heel of Italy’s boot – and remember to buy my Paris Métro ticket from the cafe on the Eurostar.

Day one: London to Chamb éry

First to Paris’s Gare du Nord, then the metro to Gare de Lyon, where I make a beeline for a cafe opposite the station. Noise pervades the pavement tables of Café Terminus, but the cacophony is delightful – an atmospheric place for a citron pressé .

I’m in plenty of time for the train to Chambéry and, excitingly, am on the upper deck. Soon, we break free from the suburbs to trace huge stands of forest. Beyond Lyon begins a ripple of hills, lazy rivers and thickly forested slopes. As evening approaches, it’s all Alpine scenery. I arrive at an almost-empty station and walk to the boutique Hotel des Princes in Chambéry’s old town.

Chambéry has an Italian feel – it was the seat of the House of Savoy before the dynasty moved on to Turin – and its medieval alleys, cathedral and pastel-coloured townhouses are quietly impressive. The 1838 Fontaine des Éléphants sits in the middle of the closest square to the old town, and peeking from the end of every street are the Bauges and Chartreuse mountain ranges. My stay is peaceful and easy.

Day two: Chamb éry to Turin

From Chambéry, the train to Turin would take about 2½ hours, but the bus takes double this. I’m on the top deck again, which is worth it for the sight of misty fingers of early morning light breaking across the mountain ridge. Snoozing backpackers rouse themselves to snap pictures of remote Mont Blanc peaks, before slumbering once more through the tunnel to Italy. In Turin there’s perfume in the air from the blossom-covered trees.

Turin’s grid of long, straight boulevards is testament to its development by the Romans – the redbrick Palatine Gate is another Roman relic – and its grand piazzas, royal palaces and graffitied colonnades date from the city’s Savoy heyday in the 16th and 17th centuries. Today, the number one attraction is the Museo Egizio (Egyptian Museum).

My favourite moments? Ricotta and fig ice-cream on Piazza San Carlo, an aperitivo on off-the-beaten-path Via Sant’Agostino and the towering neoclassical Mole Antonelliana (national museum of cinema). I eat Turin’s famous doughy pizza al padellino (pan pizza) and spend a comfortable night in the eaves of Hotel Urbani in 19th-century residential streets close to the grand Porta Nuova train station.

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Day three: Turin to Bari

The views from my next train are of cinematic Tuscan scenes. Scorched fields, vines and Italian cypress trees. Neat red roofs and shabby-chic farmhouses. Fluffy clouds cling to hills that Google Maps tells me are the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines. After hours of soothing golden landscapes, the opal-blue Adriatic wallops into view just north of Ancona. Beach bars whip by and cypress trees are replaced with palm trees: I’ve arrived in the south of Italy.

Bari is hands down my favourite stop. The noise, heat and energy as we step off the train in the early evening are joyous. After Chambéry and Turin, Bari feels brash, a little rough around the edges even; a proper port city. The labyrinthine alleyways of the whitewashed old town are almost cliched in their cuteness. Despite the troupes of tightly packed headphone-wearing Americans following guided tours, it somehow manages to retain a tranquil atmosphere.

Old ladies yawn from the shade as tourists surreptitiously snap pictures and laundry flutters from balconies. I could stay for ever, but after 24 hours (which includes a lot of pasta, a stroll along the posh promenade to the not-so-posh city beach and a night in an elegant aparthotel, Residence Zodiacus , halfway between the station and the old town), it’s time to board the night ferry to Albania.

Day (and night) four: Bari to Tirana

I arrive at the ferry on foot and am escorted through the car deck to jokes about going in the wrong direction (to Albania, instead of from it). In the early morning I spot a pink sky through the cracked window of my comfy en suite cabin, and head to the top deck to see the sun rise over the distant outline of Albania. Disembarking in the port of Durrës is a bit of a scrum and there’s a bus to the capital waiting, but I opt instead for a five-minute taxi ride to the centre of town and breakfast of pastries and espresso on a dazzling white road lined with boutiques and palm trees. I later regret this though, as the aircon on the grubby public bus I eventually take to Tirana is more tired than I am, and drops me in an urban sprawl miles from the centre.

Tirana itself is a revelation. My hotel, Padam Boutique , is a grand villa with handsome rooms and floor-to-ceiling windows, and there’s striking new skyward architecture on every nearby street. A short stroll away is the landmark Pyramid of Tirana , which stands as a symbol and monument to change (and is fun to climb at sunset). Skanderbeg Square – a jumble of buildings erected on a roundabout at the time of the celebrations to mark the fall of communism in 1992 – is now a pedestrianised, glossy public space. There are nods to Albania’s recent, wretched history behind the iron curtain, of course – the Bunk’Art and Bunk’Art 2 museums, in nuclear bunkers are unmissable – but Tirana and the country are more than just the last century. My journey is done, but it feels like Tirana is just getting into its stride.

The trip was provided by Byway , which offers sustainable travel and accommodation packages across the UK and Europe. Its Alps to Albania trip costs from £679pp

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