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Hua Hin Is Thailand's Original Resort Town — and It Has Some Glamorous New Places to Eat and Stay

A classic destination steps back into the spotlight.

Chris Schalkx

With broad beaches bookended by temple-topped rocky outcrops, Hua Hin has been a playground for Thai hi-so (local slang for high-society) since members of the royal family built their summer palaces there in the 1920s. Over the century that followed, well-heeled Bangkok residents snapped up beach villas and luxury condominiums, turning this getaway — just three hours south of the capital — into Thailand’s version of the Hamptons. And, as in the Hamptons, cool young people tended to steer clear.

That began changing in 2020, when a new crowd of hoteliers, chefs, surfers, and coffee enthusiasts started setting up shop along its shores. Perhaps the biggest sign that Hua Hin has found a new audience is the fact that the Standard hotel group chose to open its first Thai outpost there, even before Bangkok , where a second hotel arrived a few months later. The Standard, Hua Hin , which debuted last December, channels the brand’s Hollywood roots with midcentury modern architecture and quirky Thai trimmings, like vintage train-station benches in the lobby. The 171 rooms and suites are cozy, with sunshine-yellow furnishings and small balconies, but the 28 villas are where the party’s at: most come with private pools and Instagram-ready disco balls in the terrazzo-tiled bathrooms.

Around the pool, stylish creatives sip pineapple Negronis under candy-striped umbrellas. The food is just as fun: I ordered tom yum ramen and tuna larb at Praça , a self-described “Thai izakaya” right on the beach, then headed next door for burrata with tomato sherbert at the Italian-inspired Lido .

Still, the Standard’s not the only new kid on the block. A five-minute drive south is its more low-key sister property, the Peri Hotel Hua Hin , one of two new Thai boutiques within the Standard portfolio (the second Peri is in Khao Yai National Park .)

The 47-room Peri resort in Hua Hin opened at the end of 2020 and has a '60s surf lodge vibe, with wicker furnishings, beanbags around the pool, and Thai tiki drinks made with Mekhong rum. Its seafood-focused restaurant, Chow Mong , serves excellent clay-pot crab congee and tom yum steamboats with clams, squid, and sea bass.

I continued my Hua Hin food crawl at Som’s Table , a humble bistro in an 80-year-old villa on the quiet end of Khao Tao Beach. When the pandemic forced her to close her thriving Bangkok restaurant, chef Jutamas “Som” Theantae needed a change. So she moved to Hua Hin, close to where she was born, to open Som’s Table. She serves unfussy European comfort food meant for sharing, with herbs from the patio garden and natural wines. The menu changes daily, but if it’s available, order the knockout bean stew with barracuda, prawns, and ratatouille.

When it was time to hit the beach , I discovered I could go lively or relaxed. With a marble-tiled pool, white daybeds, and gold accents, Sundance Dayclub is a sceney spot that wouldn’t look out of place on the ritzier side of Miami. Bite-size snacks, like fresh oysters and beef sliders, are served at the swim-up pool bar. At the adjoining restaurant, Sunrise , I had a heartier meal of crab curry, papaya salad, and steak with spicy jim jaew sauce. On weekends, the mirrored solarium at the heart of the club opens for high tea with Champagne.

For a quieter afternoon, I headed to Pineapple Surf Club , on Khao Takiab Beach. There I found paddleboards for rent (and instructors on call), as well as yoga classes in the garden. That said, the sun loungers offer serious do-nothing appeal — I ordered a watermelon smoothie and a banana-topped açaí bowl, served in a coconut shell, and buried my toes in the sand.

A version of this story first appeared in the September 2022 issue of Travel + Leisure under the headline "Hua Hin Happening."

新光華造紙股份有限公司於1945年由游賢邦老先生創立設廠，乃是台灣光復後的第一家手工造紙廠，坐落在台灣群山環繞，水質豐美的山城埔里鎮，這裡也是台灣宣紙的發祥地。

並於1990年3月為擴大產量在泰國設立手工紙廠,始終秉持著對傳統手工製造工藝的尊重與執著，從選料、蒸煮、打漿、抄紙、焙紙，到篩選包裝，完全遵循古法，一絲不苟，製成一張張純手工打造，潔淨勻韌的紙品，其手工宣紙品質穩定馳名中外，暢銷台灣、日本、韓國等地，深受國內外藝術家及書畫愛好者的喜愛。

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Hua Hin, Thailand's Royal Beach Resort

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History | Attractions

The oldest and most traditional Thai holiday resort combines the attractions of a modern travel destination with the charm and fascination of a still active fishing port. And while most other Thai holiday destinations cater mainly to foreign tourists, Hua Hin is a holiday resort for both foreigners and Thais .

Besides its great 5 mile (8 kilometer) long beach Hua Hin provides accommodation options of all levels , great restaurants of all cuisines and price levels , and last but not lest the highest density of world class golf courses anywhere in Thailand.

While the beaches of Phuket and Koh Samui were discovered only recently and have since undergone rapid and oftentimes destructive development, Hua Hin has already been the favourite Thai resort for over 90 years .

The resort was discovered in the early 1920s by King Rama VII as an ideal getaway from the sultry metropolis of Bangkok. The tranquil fishing village was turned into the Royal Resort and consequently became popular among Siam's nobility and upper-class .

The construction of a railway line from Bangkok ensured its accessibility and popularity with a wider part of the the Thai public.

But it essentially was the resort's royal endorsement which has given Hua Hin a special character of its very own.

In 1928, King Rama VII built Klai Kangwon (Far From Worries) Palace which remains until this today an official royal residence . It is still frequently used by members of the royal family and is open to the public for visits.

Hua Hin continued to develop in its own leisurely way, both as an aristocratic resort with the added attraction of one of Asia's first 18-hole golf courses , and as a fishing port. The Railway Hotel , today's Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas Hua Hin, was built by the State Railways of Thailand in 1923 in the architectural style of old Siam. Many of Bangkok's rich and famous built their own beachfront summer homes to the north and south along the curving sandy bay, enjoying leisurely family weekends in a resort that has maintained its unique identity .

Attractions

Today's visitor to Hua Hin will still sense this special atmosphere and old world charm . Hua Hin has weathered the onslaught of modern development and construction far better than all other resorts of Thailand - with perhaps the exception of (beach-less) Chiang Mai . The central town around the temple and toward the beach is free of high-rise construction with the exception of the Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa.

Besides sun-filled days on the long beach there are leisure activities for the whole family from watersports (especially kite-boarding has become popular in recent years) to golf. The area around the town let's you discover fabulous parks and peaks, caves and waterfalls .

In the evening the winding roads with a great variety of shops, restaurants and nightlife establishments make for an interesting and relaxing stroll. And the seaside restaurants built on stilts into the sea offer superb seafood in the legendary and unsurpassed preparation of the Thai cuisine , at still very affordable prices.

Hua Hin has all the ingredients for a very special holiday experience.

Recent Accolades

Huffington post, july 24, 2013.

Hua Hin has (again) been chosen as one of the world's best places to retire by Live and Invest Overseas . Strong points for Hua Hin were the low cost of living in general and the affordability of beach-front living in particular, as well as its overall expat-friendlyness .

The only other place in Thailand to make the list is Chiang Mai on its excellent health care facilities and even lower cost of living compared with Hua Hin.

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Hua Hin, a family destination

Hua hin travel guide.

Hua Hin is one of the most famous beach destinations among Thais thanks to its proximity to Bangkok. On weekdays, with no traffic, Hua Hin can be reached from Thailand’s capital in about two and a half hours . This means that many Bangkokians take weekend or multi-day weekend trips to Hua Hin and some even have their second home there. Hua Hin has also suffered a great construction boom in recent decades, but more controlled than in Pattaya. Unlike Pattaya and sex tourism, Hua Hin is reputed to be a more family-friendly and friendly destination , also thanks to its relationship with the Thai monarchy; Since several kings have frequented this beach city on a regular basis, the previous king Rama IX spent several years residing there. Also many expats, especially western retirees, have made Hua Hin their home.

“Hua Hin in Thailand is a recommended destination not so much because of its beach but because it is a good place to spend a few days relaxed enjoying all that the place offers: good food, night markets, some waterfalls, the famous Phraya Nakhon cave in Sam Roi Yod National Park, kitesurfing, etc. “

ℹ️ Top Things to Do in Hua Hin

Hua hin night market.

Tamarind Night Market

Cicada Weekend Market

Khao Takiab Monkeys

Rooftop Bars

Sam rot yod national park.

Sam Rot Yod National Park , south of Hua Hin, is a phenomenal day trip from Hua Hin if you have your own vehicle . If not, another option is to easily rent a motorcycle or car in the city and drive to the park. One of its great attractions is the Phraya Nakhon cave with its small temple inside illuminated by a large opening in the ceiling of the cave. To get to the cave you must get to Laem Sala beach beach beforehand, either by boat or on foot for about 30 minutes from the nearest parking lot. You will have to pay 200 THB to access. Once on the beach you will have to walk again for 30 or 45 minutes until you reach the cave. It is all uphill, so bring enough water, but the effort is worth it.

Pa La-U Waterfall

Free Elephants at Kui Buri

One hour and a half by car from Hua Hin you will find the small Kui Buri National Parl, one of the few places in Thailand where you can see wild and free elephants . There you will find a project developed by the Kuiburi Wildlife Ecotourism Club in which local farmers act as drivers and guides for 2-3 hours to enter a restricted area of the park where elephants and other animals live freely. Her you have the exact places you have to drive to: Hueai Leuk .

🏨 Where to stay in Hua Hin

If you are looking for cheap accommodation, it will not be difficult to find it in the red light district of Hua Hin, near the beach and the Hilton Hotel. The cheapest rooms usually cost between THB 300-500 (€ 7.5-12.5).  If you want luxury in front of the beach, take a look at the Hilton or the Centara.

🏖 The most recommended Hua Hin beaches

These are some of the most popular and beautifull beaches in hua hin, 1️⃣ hua hin main beach.

Hua Hin Beach changes quite a bit during the year. From the end of November to the end of March is the ideal season to enjoy it, since there is a pleasant wind and the sea usually offers a more bluish and more beautiful color. As a disadvantage, at this time the tide is usually higher and sometimes there is little sand in the morning. From April to October the color of the sea is grayer but the tide is usually lower and there are fewer people. In April, it is also very hot and few people go to the beach in the sunniest hours.

2️⃣ Suan Son Pradipat and Koh Tao Beach

It is the beach just after Hua Hin. It is a 6 km pine beach that is owned by the Thai army, but is open to the public. The army has a few resorts, but the beach is largely unspoiled. Locals take advantage of it, above all, in the afternoons for a picnic. It is also an ideal place to run. In the north (military) area of the beach there is a large parking area with a restaurant, a nice cafeteria and a small massage center. Khao Tao beach is actually the same as the previous one, Suan Son Pradipat, but it is its southern part. The only thing that since she does not belong to the military, they call her by a different name. In it, you will find some resorts and a restaurant facing the sea: Gusto Et Cozy. The resorts in this area are very quiet and have direct access to the sand, such as The Blue Sky Resort.

3️⃣ Pranburi Beach

Pranburi is about 26 km south of Hua Hin. In the Pranburi area we first come across Paknam Pran beach, which is smaller and quieter. Then we have the main beach of Pranburi, which is very long, about 8 kms. There is a hotel offer on both beaches, although quite limited. In general, it is a very quiet area and kitesurfing when the wind allows it.

4️⃣ Thao Ko Sa Forest Park Beach

The Thao Ko Sa Forest park is an area where you will find a small mangrove forest in which they have built a path with wooden boards. It can be covered in about twenty minutes and is a pleasant walk through the forest. In addition, in the same area you will find a very quiet beach area with some ideal tables for a picnic under the shade of a tree. There is also a cafeteria in the park itself.

5️⃣ Sam Rot Yod Beach

It is a fairly long beach where we have many resorts that are well priced and quiet. It is a good destination for those who want to disconnect and are simply looking for a small hotel in front of the sea (although a narrow road separates the hotels from the sand). One recommended to go with the family is the Dolphins Bay.

6️⃣ Laem Sala Beach

Probably the best beach in the area. It is a virgin beach with white sand and palm trees in the Sam Rot Yod National Park, which can only be accessed by walking along a mountain path of 30-40 minutes or by boat. On the beach near Hua Hin there are bungalows, shops and a national park restaurant. From this beach you can go up to the incredible Phraya Nakhon cave, to access it you have to pay 200 THB for adults and 100 THB for children.

✈️ Arriving to Hua Hin

There are 3 ways to get hua hin. these are they:, 🚇 where to go next, most common destinations after bangkok:, chiang mai, the center of the north, chiang rai, the northest city, kanchanaburi, the city of the bridge, ayutthaya, the historical capital, let us design your trip to thailand. find out more, ➡️ tailor made holidays to thailand ⬅️.

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Home » Blog » Hua Hin – A Thai-style Beach Resort

Hua Hin – A Thai-style Beach Resort

Hua Hin Travel Guide. 

Hua Hin is one of two major beach resorts within two hours drive of Bangkok – the distinctly quieter one. Pattaya , directly across the Gulf from here, is its action-packed, distant cousin.  It is Thailand’s ‘first’ beach destination with a royal touch.

But Hua Hin is far from remote, and there are quite a few things to do here. This is a favourite of Bangkok families, Thai and expat, with thousands flocking here each weekend. This place is particularly suitable for those looking for a more ‘Thai’ experience. Check out the good (and not so good) aspects in this Hua Hin travel guide . 

What We Love About Hua Hin 

Hua hin is more a ‘thai’ town, than ‘tourist’ town .

This Hua Hin travel guide hopes to show you that the town is unlike any other beach destination in Thailand, being a distinctly ‘Thai’ resort.

It was originally built as an escape from Bangkok for Thais.  Even nowadays, it is still used by many more Thais than foreigners. A long-established royal palace, Klai Kangwon Palace , which was used extensively by King Rama IX,  is also located here.  It was built for Thai kings to escape the pressures of Bangkok. The strong foreign presence in Hua Hin is muted by the Thai flavour more than in any other major beach resort in the country.

Of the foreign faces you will see in Hua Hin a large number are those of retirees.  Hua Hin is a major destination for retirees from Europe, especially the Scandinavian countries.

On Weekdays it’s Quiet

Since the major clientele of Hua Hin hotels and resorts are Thais escaping Bangkok on weekends, most have low occupancy during the week days. It makes an interesting contrast for foreign visitors not tied to work schedules.  And also provides long quiet breaks after each Saturday – Sunday rush and crush. Hua Hin beach, the hotels and restaurants are all really quiet between weekends, and of course the service is that much better.

Hua Hin is near Bangkok

Close proximity to Bangkok makes Hua Hin an ideal escape for foreign visitors with limited time.  It’s around two and a half hours drive south from the capital. Great for anyone wishing to add a few days on the beach to a Bangkok holiday. Hua Hin’s quiet ambiance is also a big contrast to wild, wild Pattaya, the other choice close to Bangkok. Many Bangkok taxis will make the run to Hua Hin in two hours or so if you avoid Bangkok’s rush hour.

It’s also possible to take a train. Hua Hin Railway Station is a small, beautifully restored 19th century station.  A real step back in time.  However, taking the train to Hua hin is slower than driving.

Popular Seafood Restaurants

Eating at the over-water restaurants in the heart of Hua Hin is a grand tradition .  One that has been followed for generations by Bangkok residents escaping for the weekend. An evening meal, in one of the half dozen stilted restaurants that cover a central sector of Hua Hin beach, is an integral part of a visit here.

In recent years the traffic and difficulties of parking in the crowded inner streets has forced some families to seek alternate seafood restaurants.  But still the restaurants here boom each weekend. Try them, and be assured of getting 100% authentic Thai dishes.

Small Bar Area

Hua Hin is sometimes called a ‘royal’ resort, or a more traditionally Thai one. However, despite its elite origins there is also a small beer and girlie bar scene here.  A kind of soft-core, red-light area. It seems appropriate that in so a revered town the neon bar sign with female figures should be tucked out of sight, especially since it’s in the heart of Hua Hin.

If you’re interested, wander around the narrow small backstreets behind the Hilton Hua Hin Hotel and the famous over-water seafood restaurants – between there and the large Buddhist monastery along the main street.

Good Range of Accommodation 

Hua Hin offers quaint little guesthouses, mid-range family hotels, romantic boutique resorts and luxurious 5-star resorts. The smaller, cheaper bungalows and guesthouses are generally not on Hua Hin beach, while virtually all of the top-end resorts are indeed true beachfront.

The majority of mid-level hotels are also not by the sea. Beware, for some of the roads that need to be crossed are big and busy.  Surely the best-known luxury beach resort in Hua Hin is that right on the beach in the middle of the town.  One began life as the colonial-era Railway Hotel, now renovated but maintaining its traditional style, the Centara Grand Beach Resort Hua Hin.

Great Night Markets

Hua Hin night market, near the old clock tower, with it’s stalls clustered in narrow streets is still going strong.  It’s always a good spot for a cheap seafood dinner.  However, just out of the centre, the new Cicada night market is now a major draw for residents and tourists.  It’s a very pleasant place to grab some food, listen to live music or do some shopping.  

Excellent, Authentic Thai food

For those who love real Thai food , Hua Hin has a lot of offer. Here is one of the few beach holiday destinations in Thailand with really high standards in the local cuisine.  The reason is simple – restaurants here reply mainly on Thai customers, not foreign tourists. Thai food is invariably corrupted in beach destinations where foreign tourists are the main clientele.  Many tourists demand the spicing and flavours be dumbed down, and as cooks try to satisfy different palates.

Not in Hua Hin. Most restaurants here have to serve dishes with authentic Thai tastes, and be good at it, or go out of business in this most competitive of industries.  Hua Hin night market is another great place to try a multitude of inexpensive Thai snacks and desserts. 

A Dry Climate

Hua Hin is one of the driest places in Thailand.  It lies in a mini rain shadow created by the mountain range that starts just 20 kilometres to the back. These mountains both from the border with Myanmar and squeeze much of the rain out of the Southwest Monsoon as it sweeps over them from the Indian Ocean.

This makes Hua Hin beach one of the best destinations in Thailand to visit in the monsoon season.  It has fewer rainy days than elsewhere in the country.

One of the Best Kite Surfing Beaches in Asia

Hua Hin beach is home to Thailand’s burgeoning kite surfing scene.  It is, by far, and one of the best in Asia.  Perhaps second in popularity and number of kites in the air only to Vietnam’s famed Mui Ne Beach.

There are many kite surfing schools set up along the beach, with new learners taking to the water each day. The number of kites in the skies at one time can reach the hundreds, providing a real spectacle.

Top Golfing Destination with 10 Courses

Thai men love golf, foreign tourists and retirees love golf.  Hua Hin is well set up to cater to them with ten courses within 30 minutes drive of downtown.

With 20 kilometre strip of land between ocean and mountains being very flat, many of the courses here are too. However, there are a few exceptionally interesting ones which are found built on more interesting terrain either by the ocean or in the hills.

Family Friendly Attractions

Hua Hin is fast maturing as a holiday destination, with ever-more attractions and things to do opening here. When bored of the beach, hire a car and start driving – either that or rent a car and driver, for things are well scattered.

For Thai families the most important attractions are surely the various monasteries, with Wat Huay Monkol being by far the major site for Buddhist pilgrimage. But for sheer entertainment there are those many golf courses, two water parks, a floating market, a seafood market and restaurants by Khao Takiab, several night markets in the town more. 

Vana Nava Water Park is located adjacent to Hua Hin Holiday Inn, just 5 minutes from the centre of town. Black Mountain Water Park is 10km from Hua Hin, near the well known Black Mountain Golf Course.  Both offer a fun-filled day for families and anyone needing to escape the heat. Both parks feature water slides, a wave pool, lazy river, kids’ pool, and more.

A great day trip is the drive to the magnificent Phraya Nakhon Cave .  This gold and green pavilion is hidden inside a hard to reach cave around 45 minutes drive south of Hua Hin. Phraya Nakhon Cave is located in the Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park in Prachuap Khiri Khan province.  It’s also possible to take a boat trip in Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park to see the monkeys that inhabit the mangroves and love to swim and catch crabs.

One of the biggest attractions in Hua Hin is Khao Takiab .  This hill at the southern end of Hua Hin beach is home to a hilltop temple.  Visitors can walk to the top where there are awesome panoramic views of the city and beach.  However, it’s also home to troops of monkeys that will try to steal any food or drink you are carrying. Take care! 

For the more adventurous visitor, Kaeng Krachan National Park near the border with Myanmar.  Around an hour drive from downtown Hua Hin.  It is the largest national park in Thailand and is home to a huge variety of animals.  Kaeng Krachan National Park is very popular for wildlife watching, camping and hiking.

The Downsides of Hua Hin

Yes, of course there are negative points in every place.  Though sometimes it is just a matter of taste if a particular attribute is positive or negative. But there are some things that virtually everyone agrees are negatives. Like the traffic jams or pollution for example.

Because it is high in the Gulf of Thailand, the beaches are far from the best in Thailand. The important thing for new visitors is to understand the place well, before making holiday decisions.

Losing its Traditional Character

The hideous concrete blight slowly overwhelming Hua Hin is the same one affecting virtually all Thai beach destinations. Every major road has all trees removed.  Add shophouses and a tangled mass of wires above and dust, rubbish and rough footpath below.  The end result is a contemporary Thai commercial centre devoid of character.  There are small pockets of old Hua Hin remaining, notably Hua Hin Railway Station and the royal palaces such as 

Weekend Crowds

Hua Hin’s five quiet days between weekends are a pleasant respite for the local residents, including the thousands of foreigners now in retirement here. But be prepared for the influx of Thai families and others from Bangkok every Friday night all year round. During high season weekends Hua Hin’s central beach looks quite crowded.  

Unlike most cities, Hua Hin suffers its heaviest traffic, and downtown traffic jams, on Saturdays and Sundays not weekdays. 

Lack of Public Beach Access

A reasonable number of lanes give access to Hua Hin’s beaches from the main highway.  But these are so narrow and restrictive that a car cannot even turn around in most.  They must reverse out the way they entered. When two or more cars want to move in or out, they can be in for a real jam. There is no public cark park along any beach near Hua Hin.

The kind of open public space by the beach found in Cha-Am or even Jomtien beach, Pattaya doesn’t exist in near Hua Hin.

And that’s a wrap on the pros and cons of Hua Hin. I hope this travel guide has helped you to decide if it’s a destination you’d like to visit in Thailand. 

It’s great if you just want to chill by a pool; take a long stroll on the beach;  do some kite-boarding or enjoy the great weather with friends in one of many hotels in Hua Hin. 

But not ideal if you prefer to swim in the sea. Or stay in a beach bungalow resort. Or have a pristine palm fringed beach on your doorstep.  For that you should head to one of the many islands in Thailand. 

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