Family Travel in the Middle East

Beyond Beirut: 8 Best Day Trips from Beirut

A tiny country sandwiched against the Mediterranean in the Middle East, Lebanon is a place where nearly any location can be made into a day trip from the capital Beirut if you’re ambitious enough! ( To put it into perspective, it’s smaller than the U.S. state of Connecticut ).

view over byblos Lebanon, ancient ruins looking back to the Lebanese coast

For those who visit Lebanon and wish to base themselves in Beirut, there are plenty of places to visit in Lebanon and lots of options for good day trips from Beirut. The following list includes some enjoyable and doable tours from Beirut that can be adjusted to your preference, depending on what you and your family are looking to do in a day.

A note about transportation in Lebanon

1. for an easy day trip close to beirut, 2. history & beaches, 3. more beach time, 4. if you want to get out into nature , 5. for more experienced hikers, 6. if history is what you’re looking for …, 7. and even more history to the south, 8. you really can ski and swim at the beach on the same day, more on visiting lebanon.

Traffic within and around Beirut can get heavy at times, so keep in mind that all travel times listed below are traffic-dependent.

It’s also important to remember that as Lebanon does not have a reliable public transportation system to move beyond Beirut, you must typically either rent a car, hire a taxi, or use a tour outfit to get around.

While apps like Uber and Bolt are easy to use in Beirut, they are not necessarily available throughout the country. Allo Taxi is a reputable local service through which you can arrange transport around Lebanon in advance.

Other local companies, like Beirut International Taxi offer a reliable and affordable option for visitors.

If you prefer not to drive or go by taxi, many local tour operators like City Sightseeing organize decent day trips to some of the more well-known sites like Baalbek and Jeita Grotto, but will, of course, offer you less autonomy.

  • Destination: Harissa & Jeita Grotto
  • Total Drive Time: (Beirut – Jounieh – Jeita – Beirut) 1 hour 15 minutes

If you don’t want to venture too far from Beirut, an easy and enjoyable day trip option is visiting Harissa and the Jeita Grotto – or either one on it’s own if you only want to spend a half-day outside the capital.

Harissa & the Télépherique du Liban

About a 30-minute ride up the coast from Beirut lies Jounieh, a past-its-prime resort town with an array of casinos. Head straight to the télépherique station and take the 10-minute cable car ride up to Harissa Park .

View from the Telepherique back to Harissa

It’s a fun little trip that offers some really nice views of the sweeping coast. Once you disembark the cable car, you’ll have to take the funicular to the top where there’s an open area that centres around the painted white bronze statue of the Virgin Mary, called Our Lady of Lebanon, a site of pilgrimage for many Christians.

Harissa Park itself is an open, green space where you can admire the views and take a break at one of the cafés. There’s also a playground for kids.

Once you’ve had your fill, take the cable car back down and head to the Jeita Grotto, about a 25-minute drive southeast from Jounieh.

Jeita Grotto

The Jeita Grotto is a fun option for kids and adults, even if you’re not necessarily a cave enthusiast. The grotto itself, which has some quite impressive rock formations that are well-lighted, is divided into upper and lower caverns.

If you’re game for another cable car, the upper cavern can be reached by a short ride and then explored inside on foot. An alternative is to take a short train ride between the two. The lower cavern is especially appealing as it can be toured by a boat ride through a crystal-clear lake.

Colorful cable cars take you through the forest to the top level of Jeitta Grotto, close to Beirut

The grounds also boast a small zoo and a sculpture garden. There are also a snack bar and restaurant options and souvenir shops.

  • Destination: Byblos (or Jbeil)
  • Travel Time: (Beirut – Byblos – Beirut) 1 hour 30 minutes

Byblos is definitely one of Lebanon’s highlights. A city on the coast about 45 minutes north of Beirut by car, Byblos (or Jbeil in Arabic) is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, dating back 7,000 years.

Its old city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a very nice place to explore. The Byblos souk has some nice dining options, like Feniqia Restaurant, which offers Lebanese-Asian fusion dishes, souvenir shops, and Mémoire du Temps, a shop/museum selling ancient fish fossil remains from the surrounding mountains. 

Byblos Castle

At the Byblos Archeological Site, you can discover the literal layers of history that date back to the Phoenicians and span the Greek, Roman, and Crusader periods.

To get the most out of your visit, it’s recommended to hire a guide , as many historical sites in Lebanon are not necessarily well-marked. Regardless, the site is beautifully poised against the sea and offers a lovely view up and down the coast and of the mountains. 

Byblos’ picturesque old port is a great place to have a drink or a meal and gaze at the fishing boats in the harbour or watch the sunset. If you walk along the harbour, there are plenty of rocks for kids to climb on.

Byblos harbour

Everything in and immediately around the old city, like the ruins, can be accessed by foot. You can also pair Byblos with a trip to one of the nearby beaches, many of which you can walk to from the old souk.

While there are public beaches nearby, many are very rocky. If you’re looking for softer sand and some amenities, it’s probably best to go to one of the nearby resorts and pay an entrance fee.

Resorts like Eddésands Hotel & Wellness Resort and Le Phenix de Byblos , have their own private beaches, a pool, and restaurant on-site, plus showers and changing rooms, and are very close to the old city.

  • Destination: Batroun
  • Travel Time: (Beirut – Batroun – Beirut) 1 hour 50 minutes

Batroun is a nice destination for a day trip from Beirut, especially if you want beach time with your family. Just north of Byblos along the coast, Batroun can also easily be combined with a Byblos visit.  

With its variety of bars, restaurants, and shopping options, Batroun’s old city and fishing harbour are fun to explore on foot.

skyline view of the city of Batroun, lebanon on the Mediterranean

Diaspora Village, in the old city, is a cultural and community hub that showcases the varying countries home to the extensive Lebanese diaspora (of more than 4 million people) and includes a museum, a library, and a café.

The area is also known for its citrus trees, so a stop at the famous Hilmi’s Lemonade is a popular choice. The 225-meter-long ancient Phoenician wall, which abuts the sea on the outer edges of the old city, is also worth a look. 

Batroun definitely has a beach town vibe, and there are several options if you’re looking to spend some time on the beach, which are a short drive away from the old city. Just as in Byblos, many beaches here are rocky, but there are also resort options like Stan Stefano , which have sandy beaches, pools, and restaurants on-site.

Seaside bars and restaurants like Pierre and Friends , right up along the shore, offer great views and delicious seafood.

Just east of Batroun (about 4km) is the Moussalayha Castle, which is said to date back to the 17th century and offers a winding stair climb to the top with good views. 

  • Destination : Chouf Mountains
  • Travel Time: (Beirut – Beiteddine – Moussa Castle – Jahliye – Beirut) 2 hours, not including hiking

About a 45-minute drive from Beirut, the Chouf mountain region is one of the most ideal Beirut day trips.

Meander the winding roads and enjoy the scenery as your ears pop with the increased elevation as you head first to the Beiteddine Palace.

Lebanon - Beiteddine Palace

Built over the course of 30 years (1788-1818) by Lebanon’s final ruling prince Emir Bashir Shihab II, the palace is a fun place to explore and admire the beautiful Italian and Arabic architecture and its mountain views. Chances are it will not be crowded with tourists during your visit.

Just a short trip down the road from Beiteddine is the quirky and off-beat Moussa Castle, an extensive museum of plaster figures that depict scenes from traditional Lebanese life. It’s an unusual and amusing stop if it interests you.

Moussa Castle

Next, head to the village of Jahliye and take a nature hike along the paths through the forest by the beautiful Jahliye River toward the stunning Al Zarka Waterfall (about 1 hour 10 minutes, one way).

The Shallalat Al Zarka Restaurant, which sits on the river, is an ideal lunch stop. Alternatively, head straight to the restaurant if you want to skip the hike.

  • Destination: Arz Tannourine Nature Reserve & Baatara Gorge
  • Time: (Beirut – Arz Tannourine – Douma – Baatara Gorge – Beirut) 4 hours 30 minutes

For families with older children or children more experienced with hiking, the Arz Tannourine Nature Reserve is another good day trip.

Arz Tannourine Nature Reserve

About a two-hour drive from Beirut, the park—a UNESCO World Heritage Site containing Lebanon’s most concentrated collection of its beloved cedar trees—has challenging paths that vary between 2-4.5 km in length and boast stunning views.

Pack lunch and enjoy a picnic in the park between hikes and spend your day there. Alternatively, drive to the village of Douma for lunch (about 40 minutes) to enjoy a locally sourced, traditional and delicious Lebanese meal at Beit Douma , a beautifully restored and decorated traditional Lebanese house.

On your way back to Beirut from either Beit Douma or Arz Tannourine, stop at Baatara Gorge Waterfall , which free falls through a layered sinkhole.

Baatara Gorge Waterfall

It’s ideal to go in the spring when the water is abundant (it can slow to a trickle during summer) and the area is lush and green. While the Baatara Gorge Park itself has become a bit overdeveloped for tourists, the fall itself is an impressive sight. The nearby suspension bridges are also fun to try.

  • Destination: Baalbek Archeological Site, Aanjar & Taanayel Park
  • Time: (Beirut – Baalbek – Aanjar – Taanayel – Beirut) 4 hours

Baalbek is one of the Middle East’s most impressive historical sites and a must-see when visiting Lebanon. The site itself dates back to the Phoenicians before it was later taken over by the Greeks and on to the Romans. Its structures, like the temples of Bacchus and Jupiter, built over the course of two centuries, are extensive and well-preserved.

Baalbek Temple of Bacchus in Lebanon

While the site is located in Bekka where Hezbollah’s presence is strong, the ruins are generally safe to visit with children. Guides are available for hire on-site and are highly recommended to really understand its history.

A visit to the ruins of Baalbek may also be paired with a visit to Anjar Archeological Site , an impressive place that doesn’t get as much attention as Baalbek.

Smaller than Baalbek, this ancient city is the relic of an 8th-century Arab dynasty called the Umayyad caliphate. The site gives the visitor an idea of how this ancient trading hub operated, and the restored arches of the Great Palace are a highlight.

Anjar Archaeological site Lebanon

On your way back to Beirut, stop at Domaine de Taanayel, a sprawling park and farm with a lake in the middle, which you can explore by foot or by renting a bike. Horseback riding is also available, as are horse-drawn carriage rides. Kids will also enjoy the array of cows, goats, and chickens.

  • Destination: Sidon (Saida) & Lazy B
  • Time: (Beirut – Sidon – Jiyeh – Beirut) 1 hour 30 minutes

South of Beirut lies Sidon (Saida in Arabic), an appealing coastal city. Its arguable claim to fame is the Crusader Sea Castle (Qalaa al-Bahr), which is built on top of a Phoenician temple and dates back to the 13th century. Located offshore, it’s connected to land by a stone causeway and a fun place to visit with kids.

Lebanon - Sidon Sea Castle

Nearby the castle is the Khan al-Franj, a caravanserai from the 17 th century, which is impressively restored and open to visitors. There’s also Sidon’s Soap Museum, a surprisingly interesting journey through how soap is made. (Sidon was once well known for its soap).

Sidon’s other renowned highlight is its really nice old-style souk, which is great to explore for shopping and eating.

You can also pair a morning or afternoon visit to Sidon with the beach if you’d like. Twenty minutes north of Saida on the way to Beirut is Lazy B Beach Club in Jiyeh, where you can enjoy sandy beaches, several pools (once specific for children), a restaurant, and shower/changing facilities.

Learn more about the best beaches to explore in the Middle East !

  • Destination: Mzaar & Le Phenix de Byblos
  • Travel Time: (Beirut – Mzaar – Byblos – Beirut) 3 hours 5 minutes

For those who would like to actually test out the cliché of Lebanon being the place where one can go to the beach and ski on the same day, head to Mazaar, the country’s largest and most extensive ski resort with 42 slopes.

Mzaar skiing in Lebanon

Once you’ve finished, head to Byblos on your way back to Beirut and relax on the beach at Le Phenix de Byblos.

We hope you’ve found some inspiration here to help you plan out your day trips from Beirut.

Don’t miss our further family-friendly guides to exploring Lebanon with kids:

  • Is it safe to visit Lebanon with kids?
  • 12 Incredible highlights of Lebanon with kids
  • Best of Beirut with Kids
  • What to pack for your family trip to Lebanon
  • Picking the best time of year for visiting Lebanon

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Baalbek temple and the ancient seaside village of Byblos - Best Day trips from Beirut

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Away With The Steiners

Crossing the Lebanon – Syria Border from Beirut to Damascus.

  • By Sarah Steiner
  • Updated On April 15, 2024

There are many misconceptions about travel in Syria and about crossing the Lebanon Syria border. And even about entering Syria as a country!

Syria used to be one of the most popular destinations in the Middle East. And finally, it is beginning to open up for travellers again.

We had an amazing time in Syria including a smooth and straightforward border crossing traveling from Beirut to Damascus. 

The following is our report on crossing the border from Beirut, Lebanon to Damascus, Syria.

We hope this will give you everything you need to know to make your Lebanon – Syria border crossing just as smooth.

  • About the Lebanon Syria border crossing
  • Crossing independently vs. tour
  • Visas for Syria
  • Visa fees for Syria
  • Documents required
  • Getting from Beirut to the border
  • Getting from the border to Damascus
  • A few tips for the Beirut – Damascus border crossing

About the Beirut – Damascus border crossing (and options for making your Lebanon to Syria border crossing)

Lebanon’s capital city of Beirut is only 115km from Damascus and the journey takes around 3 to 4 hours.

We left mid-morning from our hotel in Beirut and were out exploring Damascus city in time for a late lunch.

Old city Damascus in Syria with kids. How to cross the Lebanon Syria border from Beirut to Damascus.

How do you get a tourist visa for Syria? 

This is the first question we asked when looking to plan travel to Syria post-pandemic.  

You have two options for obtaining a Syrian visa. You can get a visa at your nearest Syrian embassy or you can get a visa at the border.

However, in order to get a Syrian visa at the border you need pre-authorisation (a special security clearance) arranged through a travel agency in Syria.

This is the option we went with.  It was very straightforward and the travel agency provided us with pre-authorisation (security clearance) in less than 10 working days.  

The security clearance cost $25 USD per person paid through the travel agency. 

We then took the security clearance with us to the border and purchased a visa for Syria at the border. 

The Lebanon Syria border crossing the border from Beirut to Damascus.

Crossing the border independently vs. on tour

If you choose to book a private tour or visas and transport through an agency (this is what we did) all the logistics and finer details will be taken care of by the travel agency. (And spoiler alert; we had a great travel agency which we can highly recommend).

It is possible to get a shared taxi to the border and cross and get a shared taxi to Damascus.

However be sure to check the restrictions of actually entering Syria without a tour organised or transport pre-arranged and confirmed by a registered tour guide/agency in Syria.

We were not able to enter independently at the time we crossed the Lebanon-Syria border and so enlisted the support of a travel agency (who handled the pre-authorisation and one phone call at the border to confirm/translate a last few questions on entry). 

Visa fees at the Lebanon Syria border to enter Syria:

In 2024 these are the latest visa fees at the Lebanon Syria border crossing:

  • New Zealand and Australia is 130 USD
  • European passport 50 – 100 USD 
  • USA 160 USD

Note it is not possible to get a visa for Syria at the Lebanon Syria border without pre-arranged security clearance. 

  • Tip: You cannot enter Syria (or Lebanon) with a stamp from Israel in your passport.

They are very thorough in checking and will also check your passport for an exit-only stamp from Jordan. You will be refused entry.

Customs on the Lebanon Syria border from Beirut to Damascus border crossing.

What do you need to prepare in advance? 

In order to get a Syria visa at the Beirut – Damascus border crossing you need to have arranged pre-authorisation (security clearance) in advance through a travel agency in Syria. 

What do you need to take with you to cross the Beirut – Damascus border? 

  • Printed confirmation of security clearance  
  • Copy of your passport
  • USD to purchase visa 

Actually there is a small booth just to the right of the Lebanon departure border (look to your right just before the main drive-through checkpoint to leave Lebanon).

In this office they are able to photocopy your passport if needed.

We already had a copy of our passports on us as instructed by the travel agency and didn’t realise in time this was not in fact the departure border; so they copied all four passports for $1 USD (a very friendly officer!).

If you have a driver to take you to your hotel in Damascus I suggest carrying USD with you for your stay in Syria (in large and small denominations) and wait to change to SYP once in Damascus.

You will be approached to change money at the border.

Crossing the Lebanon to Syria border from Beirut to Damascus and our first stop of the day was the Umayyad Mosque in Damascus with kids.

Getting from the Lebanon Syria border to Damascus

It takes about 45 minutes to get from the Lebanon Syria border crossing to Damascus.

However, there are many military checkpoints between the border and the city which can take more time.

Crossing the Lebanon Syria border from Beirut to Damascus and arriving in the capital city to see the iconic yellow taxis.

Crossing times on each side

  • Getting to the border from Beirut on the Lebanese side takes around 1.5 hours.
  • Getting to the border from Damascus on the Syrian side takes around 45 minutes.

A note for the return journey

You do need to keep some Syrian Pounds for the return journey. There is currently a 7000 SYP exit tax as you leave Syria crossing back overland in the other direction to Beirut.

Crossing the border from Lebanon to Syria.

Crossing the Lebanon to Syria border

So, there you have it! That is our complete guide on crossing the border from Lebanon to Syria using the Beirut – Damascus border crossing.

We will have more travel guides on Damascus, Maaloula and Sebnaya to come!

There is a lot to see in Syria and we had an amazing time. But don’t forget this incredible country has been through a lot and it isn’t all cheery and touristy.

Bear this in mind and enjoy your travel in Syria.

Which tour company do we recommend for travel in Syria and Crossing the Lebanon Syria border?

We had a fantastic experience with Yasser from Nawafir Tours in Damascus. And we can highly recommend his friendly and responsive communication.

We met with Yasser at our hotel in Damascus and felt very lucky to have connected with such a great local tour company!

  • Yasser Zied Nawafir Travel and Tours (Nawafir Al Dawlyeh) 24 Al – Rawda Street, Damascus Phone: +963 11 335 0151 Email: [email protected]

And let Yasser know you found him through that NZ traveling family! He will be sure to look after you very well.

Where we stayed in Beirut before crossing the border

  • Beirut: Mayflower Hotel We had a good few nights stay at the Mayflower Hotel in Beirut before getting a taxi across the Lebanon Syria border. It is located in Hamra and only 2 minutes walk from the bustling Hamra Street which is well known for shopping and is an easy place to exchange money in Beirut. (At a good/blackmarket rate!). Breakfast is included. And plenty of restaurants within a 3-5 minute walking radius.
  • Beirut: Embassy Hotel We also stayed a couple of nights around the corner at Embassy Hotel. A basic but friendly hotel (welcoming even when we checked in after midnight!). Directly across the road from several restaurants. Very basic breakfast included (wouldn’t rate it for the breakfast). But for a night or two before crossing the border to Syria this was a reasonably priced hotel in Beirut.

More about travel planning for Syria and beyond…

These are the companies we use while traveling fulltime as a family and that we would recommend to anyone planning and booking travel. 

  • Booking.com  – The best all-around accommodation booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation and it’s easy to filter and sort into price and availability with all the extras you are looking for personally. (We love the flexible cancellation policy!). 
  • Hostelworld – The largest inventory of hostel accommodation in the world. 
  • Skyscanner   – This is by far our favourite flight search engine. They are able to search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites often miss. We book all our flights through Skyscanner.  
  • GetYourGuide – Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions offered all around the world including everything from walking tours, to street-food tours, cooking classes, desert safari’s and more!
  • SafetyWing  – A global travel insurance that covers people from all over the world while outside their home country. You can buy it short or longterm; and even if you are out of the country. 
  • World Nomads   – Travel insurance tailored for longterm travel and nomads (including those who have already left home). 

Read more about travel in the Middle East 

  • Saudi Arabia Travel Guide: Everything you need to know about visiting KSA.
  • Jordan Travel Guide: Read all about magical Jordan.
  • Visiting Umm Qais in Jordan
  • Crossing overland from Israel to Jordan (and the worst noise ever).
  • UAE with kids: Three Emirates in three days.
  • Quick tips for visiting the Sheik Al Zayed Mosque in Abu Dhabi with kids.

Wondering about itineraries?  Questions about schooling?  See our Family Travel Guides and FAQ here . 

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We are the Steiners: Sarah, Gavin, Harry and Oscar – a family from New Zealand with a love of travel and adventure together… Especially where it takes us off the beaten track! 

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Away with the Steiners uses affiliate links. That means that if you buy something through these links, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. 

3 thoughts on “Crossing the Lebanon – Syria Border from Beirut to Damascus.”

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Can you tell me the agency that you used for visa and transportation?

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Hi Pier I have added the details to the blog. We had a great experience with Yasser! Highly recommend.

' src=

hi… I’m looking to do a big tour around Arabia. I would really like to cross from Amman to Beirut through Syria for a bit.

I’ve been told recently that it was required to be in a tour group and pay stupid fees to visit for a few days.

Your post defies that information and I am wondering… do you think things have changed in the past year? is it because you did this specifically from Lebanon? like this is very much against all information I’ve received and would love to visit Syria and Lebanon but at the moment with the info I have it seems impossible (without serious bank to join a “tour”).

cheers [email protected] my email for response. please respond.

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Large electricity generators, fuelled by diesel, in the streets of Beirut, Lebanon.

‘Where can you hide from pollution?’: cancer rises 30% in Beirut as diesel generators poison city

Lebanon’s economy and electricity system are broken and much power is now generated locally, with devastating effects on air quality and health

S mog hangs over Beirut most days, a brownish cloud that darkens the city’s skyline of minarets and concrete towers. An estimated 8,000 diesel generators have been powering Lebanese cities since the nation’s economic collapse in 2019. The generators can be heard, smelled and seen on the streets, but their worst impact is on the air the city’s inhabitants are forced to breathe.

New research, to be published by scientists at American University of Beirut (AUB), has found that the Lebanese capital’s over-reliance on the diesel generators in the past five years has directly doubled the risk of developing cancer. Rates of positive diagnosis, oncologists say, are shooting up.

  • A common condition

The human toll of non-communicable diseases (NCDs) is huge and rising. These illnesses end the lives of approximately 41 million of the 56 million people who die every year – and three quarters of them are in the developing world.

NCDs are simply that; unlike, say, a virus, you can’t catch them. Instead, they are caused by a combination of genetic, physiological, environmental and behavioural factors. The main types are cancers, chronic respiratory illnesses, diabetes and cardiovascular disease – heart attacks and stroke. Approximately 80% are preventable, and all are on the rise, spreading inexorably around the world as ageing populations and lifestyles pushed by economic growth and urbanisation make being unhealthy a global phenomenon.

NCDs, once seen as illnesses of the wealthy, now have a grip on the poor. Disease, disability and death are perfectly designed to create and widen inequality – and being poor makes it less likely you will be diagnosed accurately or treated.

Investment in tackling these common and chronic conditions that kill 71% of us is incredibly low, while the cost to families, economies and communities is staggeringly high.

In low-income countries NCDs – typically slow and debilitating illnesses – are seeing a fraction of the money needed being invested or donated. Attention remains focused on the threats from communicable diseases, yet cancer death rates have long sped past the death toll from malaria, TB and HIV/Aids combined.

'A common condition' is a Guardian series reporting on NCDs in the developing world: their prevalence, the solutions, the causes and consequences, telling the stories of people living with these illnesses.

Tracy McVeigh, editor

“The results are alarming,” says Najat Saliba, an atmospheric chemist who led the study. In the area of Makassed, one of the more densely populated parts of Beirut tested, levels of pollution from fine particulates – that is, less than 2.5 micrometres in diameter (PM2.5) – peaked at 60 micrograms a cubic metre, four times the 15 mcg/m³ level the World Health Organization says people should be not exposed to for more than 3-4 days a year.

Since 2017, the last time AUB took these measurements, the level of carcinogenic pollutants emitted into the atmosphere has doubled across three areas of Beirut. Saliba says calculations suggest cancer risk will have risen by approximately 50%.

The Beirut skyline, just visible in the far distance amid a haze of smog caused by traffic and generators

“It’s directly related,” she says. “We calculate the cancer risk based on the carcinogen materials emitted from diesel generators, some of which are classified as category 1A carcinogens .”

Generators used to fill a three-hour gap in national grid provision. Then, in 2019, one of the world’s most catastrophic economic collapses since the mid-19th century began in Lebanon. Within months the state energy grid came close to collapse and the diesel generators took over. The explosion in August 2020 , which killed more than 200 people and devastated Beirut’s commercial port, further brought the country to its knees.

Anecdotally, oncologists in Beirut now estimate that general cancer rates have been rising by 30% annually since 2020. There is a common observation – although as yet no definite data – that patients are getting younger and the tumours more aggressive.

Hani Nassar holds a photograph showing Bárbara Nassar with whom he founded the NGO.

Hani Nassar runs a cancer support association in the name of his late wife, Barbara Nassar. In his office in Beirut he points to a box of Lynparza, used to treat ovarian cancer. It is one of the medications not subsidised by the health ministry and costs $6,000 for a month’s supply. His association supports 40 women and he sometimes has to share one box among all of them.

Money is the biggest problem facing cancer patients in Lebanon , he says. The crisis has wreaked chaos. The average public sector salary is about $150 a month, far below the cost of chemotherapy.

“We have a lot of cancer patients who have not even begun any treatment,” says Hani. “They just end up saying, ‘OK, I will die – I don’t want to deprive my family of our house, our car, etc, just to pay for this.’”

In 2023, Human Rights Watch reported that lack of a reliable power supply had affected people’s right to electricity, and pointed to the Lebanese government continually adopting policies that entrenched oil dependency even as nations around the world try to transition to renewable energy.

“Diesel importers exert great influence, primarily because of the overlap between the shareholders of these companies and the political establishment,” the report noted.

Saliba says generator-owners and fuel importers are “making a fortune from burning diesel inside the city and suffocating people”. In 2017, Lebanon imported around $900m (£720m) worth of diesel for generators. By 2022, that figure was reported to have jumped to $1.9bn .

Lebanon’s government, paralysed politically and failing to enact anti-corruption measures that could unlock a bailout deal from the International Monetary Fund, has frozen ministry budgets, affecting all areas of life.

A diesel-fuelled generator in the street outside a shop in Beirut.

The air pollution monitor network – funded by the EU – has been out of service since 2019.

Lebanon is stuck in a “big vicious cycle” Saliba says. “We are a very poor country now, so we keep asking for all this money. But the trend across all sectors – and everything the government has handled over the past 10 years – is to take the money, install what needs installing, and then leave it without operating costs or any willingness to put the effort in to keep it running.”

The billions of dollars pumped into Lebanon by various international donors for infrastructure projects have not corrected the most basic issues, she says: “There is still no clean air, water or soil. There is nothing to show for any of it.”

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Julien Jreissati from Greenpeace Middle East and North Africa says an inoperative air pollution monitor network is consistent with other environmental projects.

“At least it was used and was a useful source of information for a time,” Jreissati says. “Unlike in the waste-management sector – which has seen millions of dollars poured into infrastructure projects, by the EU and other funders, such as funding wastewater-treatment plants or recycling plants.”

Many of these internationally funded projects, he adds, were never operational and some were never connected to the wastewater network.

A 2020 Greenpeace study estimated that 2,700 people died prematurely in Lebanon because of air pollution in 2018 – the highest rate per capita in the Middle East, joint with Egypt. The report found that the economic cost of air pollution in Lebanon amounted to $1.4bn – 2% of its GDP. Now, with no systemic data, there is no way to estimate the premature deaths.

General view of Beirut, Lebanon, enveloped in a haze of air pollution.

Oncologists interviewed by the Guardian were keen to stress that while diesel generators harm public health, there is no getting away from Lebanon’s tobacco consumption.

An estimated 70% of the adult population of Lebanon smoke regularly and 38% are full-time smokers.

Dr Fadlo Khuri, the president of AUB and an oncologist specialising in lung and neck cancer says what is happening in Beirut is “a confluence of circumstances”.

Lebanon only taxes imported tobacco products: a packet of 20 Marlboro Gold costs £2.20 (in the UK it costs about £15), while the local brand Cedars costs 60p for 20. The domestic tobacco industry, Khuri says dryly, is “probably the only remaining functional branch of the government, besides the armed forces”.

He also says the health effects caused by long-term exposure to the airborne carcinogens from the generators – such as emphysema, heart disease and cancers – could take years more to see.

“The AUB did measurements and mathematic modelling and found that 40% of daily exposure by people in Lebanon to airborne carcinogens comes from one source: diesel generators,” Khuri says. “You’re not going to see the impact of that on lung and neck and bladder cancer rates for years because these are diseases which take years of chronic exposure.”

For Pia Saadeh, 27, diagnosed with stage 2 breast cancer six months ago, the government does not take the link between Lebanon’s worsening environment and rising cancer rates seriously enough.

“Generators should be gone,” she says. “The government has to take back control over the electricity sector. Where can you hide from the pollution here? It’s in the water, it’s the air, it’s in what you eat, it’s everywhere.”

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Thomas L. Friedman

Israel Has a Choice to Make: Rafah or Riyadh

A tangle of barbed wire rests in the sand in front of a camp for displaced Palestinians in Rafah.

By Thomas L. Friedman

Opinion Columnist, writing from Riyadh, Saudi Arabia

U.S. diplomacy to end the Gaza war and forge a new relationship with Saudi Arabia has been converging in recent weeks into a single giant choice for Israel and Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu: What do you want more — Rafah or Riyadh?

Do you want to mount a full-scale invasion of Rafah to try to finish off Hamas — if that is even possible — without offering any Israeli exit strategy from Gaza or any political horizon for a two-state solution with non-Hamas-led Palestinians? If you go this route, it will only compound Israel’s global isolation and force a real breach with the Biden administration.

Or do you want normalization with Saudi Arabia, an Arab peacekeeping force for Gaza and a U.S.-led security alliance against Iran? This would come with a different price: a commitment from your government to work toward a Palestinian state with a reformed Palestinian Authority — but with the benefit of embedding Israel in the widest U.S.-Arab-Israeli defense coalition the Jewish state has ever enjoyed and the biggest bridge to the rest of the Muslim world Israel has ever been offered while creating at least some hope that the conflict with the Palestinians will not be a “forever war.”

This is one of the most fateful choices Israel has ever had to make. And what I find both disturbing and depressing is that there is no major Israeli leader today in the ruling coalition, the opposition or the military who is consistently helping Israelis understand that choice — a global pariah or a Middle East partner — or explaining why it should choose the second.

I appreciate how traumatized Israelis are by the vicious Hamas murders, rapes and kidnappings of Oct. 7. It is not surprising to me that many people there just want revenge, and their hearts have hardened to a degree that they can’t see or care about all of the civilians, including thousands of children, who have been killed in Gaza as Israel has plowed through to try to eliminate Hamas. All of this has been further hardened by Hamas’s refusal so far to release the remaining hostages.

But revenge is not a strategy. It is pure insanity that Israel is now more than six months into this war and the Israeli military leadership — and virtually the entire political class — has allowed Netanyahu to continue to pursue a “total victory” there, including probably soon plunging deep into Rafah, without any exit plan or Arab partner lined up to step in once the war ends. If Israel ends up with an indefinite occupation of both Gaza and the West Bank, it would be a toxic military, economic and moral overstretch that would delight Israel’s most dangerous foe, Iran, and repel all its allies in the West and the Arab world.

Early in the war, Israeli military and political leaders would tell you that moderate Arab leaders wanted Israel to wipe out Hamas, an offshoot of the Muslim Brotherhood that is detested by every Arab monarch. Sure, they would have liked Hamas gone — if it could have been done in a few weeks with few civilian casualties.

It’s now clear that it can’t be, and prolonging the war is not in the interest of the moderate Arab states, particularly Saudi Arabia.

From the conversations I’ve been having here in Riyadh and in Washington, I’d describe Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman’s view of the Israeli invasion of Gaza today like this: Get out as soon as possible. All Israel is doing at this point is killing more and more civilians, turning Saudis who favored normalization with Israel against it, creating more recruits for Al Qaeda and ISIS, empowering Iran and its allies, fomenting instability and driving away much-needed foreign investment from this region. The idea of wiping out Hamas “once and for all” is a pipe dream, in the Saudi view. If Israel wants to continue to do special operations in Gaza to get the leadership, no problem. But no boots permanently on the ground. Please get to a full cease-fire and hostage release as soon as possible and focus instead on the U.S.-Saudi-Israeli-Palestinian security-normalization deal.

That is the other road that Israel could take right now — the one that no major Israeli opposition leader is arguing for as the top priority, but the one that the Biden administration and the Saudis, Egyptians, Jordanians, Bahrainis, Moroccans and Emiratis are rooting for. Its success is by no means a sure thing, but neither is the “total victory” that Netanyahu is promising.

This other road starts with Israel forgoing any total military invasion of Rafah, which is right up against the border with Egypt and is the main route through which humanitarian relief enters Gaza by trucks. The area is home to more than 200,000 permanent residents and now also more than one million refugees from northern Gaza. It is also where the last four most intact Hamas battalions are said to be dug in and, maybe, its leader Yahya Sinwar.

The Biden administration has been telling Netanyahu publicly that he must not engage in a full-scale invasion of Rafah without a credible plan to get those one million-plus civilians out of the way — and that Israel has yet to present such a plan. But privately they are being more blunt and telling Israel: No massive invasion of Rafah, period.

A senior U.S. official put it to me this way: “We are not saying to Israel just leave Hamas be. We are saying that we believe there is a more targeted way to go after the leadership, without leveling Rafah block by block.” The Biden team, he insisted, is not trying to spare the Hamas bosses — just spare Gaza another spasm of mass civilian losses.

Let’s remember, the official added, that Israel thought Hamas’s leaders were in Khan Yunis and it destroyed much of that town looking for them and not finding them. And they did the same with Gaza City in the north. What happened? Sure, a lot of Hamas fighters there were killed, but many others just dissolved into the ruins and have now popped up anew — so much so that a Hamas unit on April 18 was able to fire a rocket from Beit Lahia in northern Gaza toward the Israeli city of Ashkelon.

U.S. officials are convinced that if Israel now smashes up all of Rafah, after having done the same to big parts of Khan Yunis and Gaza City, and has no credible Palestinian partner to relieve it of the security burden of governing a broken Gaza, it will be making the kind of mistake the United States made in Iraq and end up dealing with a permanent insurgency on top of a permanent humanitarian crisis. But there would be one critical difference: The United States is a superpower that could fail in Iraq and bounce back. For Israel, a permanent Gaza insurgency would be crippling, especially with no friends left.

And that is why U.S. officials tell me that if Israel does mount a major military operation in Rafah, over the administration’s objections, President Biden would consider restricting certain arms sales to Israel.

This is not only because the Biden administration wants to avoid more civilian casualties in Gaza out of humanitarian concerns or because they would further inflame global public opinion against Israel and make it even more difficult for the Biden team to defend Israel. It’s because the administration believes that a full-scale Israeli invasion of Rafah will both undermine prospects for a new hostage exchange, for which officials say there are now some fresh glimmers of hope, and destroy three vital projects it has been working on to enhance Israel’s long-term security.

The first is an Arab peacekeeping force that could replace Israeli troops in Gaza, so that Israel can get out and not be stuck occupying both Gaza and the West Bank forever. Several Arab states have been discussing sending peacekeeping troops to Gaza to replace Israeli troops, who would have to leave — provided there is a permanent cease-fire — and the presence of the troops would be formally blessed by a joint decision of the Palestine Liberation Organization, the umbrella body bringing together most Palestinian factions, and the Palestinian Authority. The Arab states would also most likely insist on some U.S. military logistical assistance. Nothing has been decided yet, but the idea is under active consideration.

The second is the U.S.-Saudi-Israeli-Palestinian diplomatic-security deal that the administration is close to finalizing the terms of with the Saudi crown prince. It has several components, but the three key U.S.-Saudi ones are: 1) A mutual defense pact between the United States and Saudi Arabia that would take any ambiguity out of what America would do if Iran attacked Saudi Arabia. The United States would come to Riyadh’s defense, and vice versa. 2) Streamlining Saudi access to the most advanced U.S. weapons. 3) A tightly controlled civilian nuclear deal that would allow Saudi Arabia to take advantage of its own uranium deposits for use in its own civilian nuclear reactor.

In return, the Saudis would curb Chinese investment inside Saudi Arabia as well as any military ties and build its next-generation defense systems entirely with U.S. weaponry, which would be a boon for American defense manufacturers and make the two armies entirely interoperable. The Saudis, with their abundant cheap energy and physical space, would like to host some of the massive data-processing centers required by U.S. tech companies to exploit artificial intelligence, at a time when domestic U.S. energy costs and physical space are becoming so scarce that new data centers are becoming harder and harder to build at home. Saudi Arabia would also normalize relations with Israel, provided that Netanyahu committed to work toward a two-state solution with an overhauled Palestinian Authority.

And last, the United States would bring together Israel, Saudi Arabia, other moderate Arab states and key European allies into a single, integrated security architecture to counter Iranian missile threats the way they did on an ad hoc basis when Iran attacked Israel on April 13 in retaliation for an Israeli strike on some senior Iranian military leaders suspected of running operations against Israel, who were meeting at an Iranian diplomatic compound in Syria. This coalition will not come together on any continued basis without Israel getting out of Gaza and committing to work toward Palestinian statehood. There is no way Arab states can be seen to be permanently protecting Israel from Iran if Israel is permanently occupying Gaza and the West Bank. U.S. and Saudi officials also know that without Israel in the deal, the U.S.-Saudi security components are not likely to ever get through Congress.

The Biden team wants to complete the U.S.-Saudi part of the deal so that it can act like the opposition party that Israel does not have right now and be able to say to Netanyahu: You can be remembered as the leader who presided over Israel’s worst military catastrophe on Oct. 7 or the leader who led Israel out of Gaza and opened the road to normalization between Israel and the most important Muslim state. Your choice. And it wants to offer this choice publicly so that every Israeli can see it.

So let me end where I began: Israel’s long-term interests are in Riyadh, not Rafah. Of course, neither is a sure thing and both come with risks. And I know that it’s not so easy for Israelis to weigh them when so many global protesters these days are hammering Israel for its bad behavior in Gaza and giving Hamas a free pass . But that’s what leaders are for: to make the case that the road to Riyadh has a much bigger payoff at the end than the road to Rafah, which will be a dead end in every sense of the term.

I totally respect that Israelis are the ones who will have to live with the choice. I just want to make sure they know they have one.

The Times is committed to publishing a diversity of letters to the editor. We’d like to hear what you think about this or any of our articles. Here are some tips . And here’s our email: [email protected] .

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Thomas L. Friedman is the foreign affairs Opinion columnist. He joined the paper in 1981 and has won three Pulitzer Prizes. He is the author of seven books, including “From Beirut to Jerusalem,” which won the National Book Award. @ tomfriedman • Facebook

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