2017 dodge journey 3.6 spark plug gap

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2017 Dodge Journey

2017 Dodge Journey - Spark Plugs

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Thread reach (mm), thread reach (in), preset gap (in), preset gap (mm), center electrode design, related categories.

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Autolite Iridium XP Spark Plug

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Spark plugs receive power from the distributor and/or ignition coil(s) that they use to create the spark needed for combustion, and are crucial to starting and your vehicle's engine. The spark plugs on your car consist of a center electrode that receives power, and a ground electrode that completes the circuit to arc, making a spark. Without healthy spark plugs, your car will not start or move or may experience a loss in performance or efficiency. Although they're designed for lasting performance - around 80 to 100 thousand miles - spark plugs wear out over time as the electrode material degrades. If the spark plug electrode wears down too far, the gap may become too wide for electricity to arc, resulting in a weak spark or a complete lack of spark, and an engine that will not start. Additionally, pre-combustion can cause the spark plug electrodes to fail prematurely. Spark plugs may also be fouled by overly-rich fuel mixtures or oil contamination, which can cause engine misfires and allow the spark plug to only operate intermittently. A non-working spark plug can also be caused by a failing ignition coil, spark plug wire or boot, or a damaged connection from constant heat and long-term use. This damage can affect your vehicle's ability to ignite the fuel mixture and prevent you from starting your vehicle or running the engine. Signs of a bad spark plug include misfiring if your vehicle has difficulty starting, a rough or loud idle, reduced fuel economy, trouble starting your car or accelerating, an illuminated Check Engine light , and more. Replacing spark plugs is part of a regular tune-up, so if your spark plugs need to be replaced, you should also consider replacing the spark plug wires or coil boots to restore optimal performance. If you're unsure of what spark plugs your car needs, check out our helpful articles on how to choose the right spark plugs , how to set spark plug gap , and much more. Shop O'Reilly Auto Parts for the best spark plugs, spark plug wires, coil boots, and other spark plug and ignition system parts for a complete tune-up or repair.

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2017 Dodge Journey Engine Tune-Ups & Maintenance

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Schedule Your Dodge Journey Tune-Up Service Appointment

If your Journey is acting strange or making new noises, it could be engine tune-up time. Don’t wait until small problems get bigger. Make an appointment now.

Tune Into Your Dodge Journey

Is it time for an engine tune-up? If you usually wait until your car has an issue to take it in for service, now is the time to work on that habit, especially if you drive a 2017 Dodge Journey. Periodic tune-ups can bring more power back to your Journey’s engine. They're designed to help your engine start easier and run more efficiently, which can mean better fuel economy (a win for you) and lower emissions (a win for the environment). When you get routine engine tune-ups based on Dodge's recommendations, you’re taking vital steps toward keeping your Journey’s engine running smoother, longer.

Routine Engine Tune-Up Service for Your Dodge Journey

The Firestone Complete Auto Care location in your community offers several Dodge Journey engine tune-up services. The standard Firestone Tune-Up is one service option. This includes the installation of new spark plugs and a visual inspection of your engine’s components, plus a lifetime warranty on parts*. A second service option replaces the air and fuel filter in your Journey. The third tune-up option is a fuel system cleaning service, which is a three-step process that removes varnish, dirt, and carbon deposits on your Journey's fuel injectors, throttle body, and throttle plate. The result? Restored fuel system performance. Keep in mind that your Journey's mileage and maintenance history can uniquely impact its tune-up needs. A one-size-fits-all engine tune-up procedure doesn’t necessarily exist. Talk to a technician about your driving style, mileage, and service history to learn more about your vehicle's specific needs.

Where Should I Go for My Dodge Journey Tune-Up?

If you’re looking for 2017 Journey engine tune-up services, head to Firestone Complete Auto Care. Follow Dodge's recommended maintenance schedule or book an appointment as soon as you notice one of the following: shaking while the engine is idling, poor fuel economy, an illuminated check engine light on your dashboard, or a knocking sound when the engine is running.

*Check with a teammate at Firestone Complete Auto Care for complete terms and conditions regarding warranties.

Questions About 2017 Dodge Journey Engine Tune-Ups

• When should Dodge Journey spark plugs be replaced? Replace spark plugs on time or about every 30,000 miles or so. Spark plugs are small but mighty. The spark of electricity that the plug emits across a small gap creates the ignition for the combustion needed to start your car. Without that spark, your car won't start.
• What should I do if I see leaks under my Journey? Don't ignore puddles of fluid under your Dodge Journey. It could signal a coolant leak, brake fluid leak, or an oil leak. Let any one of these leaks linger and it could cause engine damage.
• Are hard starts and stops bad for my Dodge Journey engine? Hard stops and starts can lead to premature wear on your engine’s components. Lighten up that lead foot and opt for steady, fluid starts and stops instead. Your engine (and your passengers!) will thank you.
• Where can I get a Dodge Journey tune-up? At your nearby Firestone Complete Auto Care! Whether you need Dodge Journey service, maintenance, or repairs, our technicians can get the job done.
• How often do Dodge Journey fuel injectors need to be cleaned? The cleaning schedule for vehicle fuel injectors varies depending on your driving conditions and the type of fuel you use. Some manufacturers suggest cleaning your fuel system as part of routine maintenance, while others will recommend it on an as-needed basis if you’re experiencing poor performance. Reference your Dodge owner’s manual for exact guidelines.
• Who can I go to for Dodge Journey tune-ups? Your local Firestone Complete Auto Care  is happy to help with your Dodge Journey tune-up. Visit us online to see our latest offers  and book an appointment.

2017 Dodge Journey Maintenance

Take care of your vehicle and it'll take care of you. Click on a service below to learn more about properly maintaining your Dodge Journey.

Repair Service for Your 2017 Dodge Journey

Your Dodge Journey runs best when it’s well cared for. Make sure it’s always in tip-top shape with repairs from Firestone Complete Auto Care. Learn more about 2017 Dodge Journey repairs below.

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OE Iridium Spark Plug Gap 0.043" for 3.6L Pentastar, or What?

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2016 DODGE GRAND CARAVAN 3.6L V6 Spark Plug | RockAuto

Spark plug gaps are kind of random. You want a large enough gap to create spark energy and size, but a small enough gap so you don't misfire. .04 and .044 are not that different. Consider all the twin, triple, and quad electrode plugs on the market that don't have a standard or an adjustable gap. Where do you even measure the Bosch 4-electrode plugs? My favorite spark plug gap story/picture was a guy on the Ford Truck Enthusiasts forum who posted a pic of some plugs from an E-Van with over 300k miles on them. From a 2V 5.4 engine. Wish I had the photo. He was an expeditor and had 4 E vans at 1.3 million miles each. He sure kept his cost of ownership low. He said the van was running a bit rough with the 300k plugs but not terribly. There was no center electrode on the plugs, but a hole burrowed down into the ceramic tip.  

The wider the gap the higher the voltage required to ionize the gap and start the spark. The higher the voltage the more likely that the coil’s insulation will be breached over time by the high voltage and the coil ruined. A coil that can put out 25 or 30kv won’t do it for long. Normal voltage is more like 10 to 15kv. I agree that 5 or 6 thousandths makes virtually no difference in anything. Most of the platinum and iridium plugs can be easily damaged by checking and adjusting the gap — that’s really the reason they don’t recommend gapping them.  

LPete said: The wider the gap the higher the voltage required to ionize the gap and start the spark. The higher the voltage the more likely that the coil’s insulation will be breached over time by the high voltage and the coil ruined. A coil that can put out 25 or 30kv won’t do it for long. Normal voltage is more like 10 to 15kv. I agree that 5 or 6 thousandths makes virtually no difference in anything. Most of the platinum and iridium plugs can be easily damaged by checking and adjusting the gap — that’s really the reason they don’t recommend gapping them . Click to expand...

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WOW! Some say wide gaps are hard on the coil(s).  

Running too wide of a gap for too long will shorten the life of coils. But they seem to handle up to about .055" without issue. Click to expand...

Spark plugs....another old time topic for motor heads to wank over. (Cooling system seems to be the trending favorite) The published factory gap number does not take into account the type and the manufacturer, (heat rating..) or the technology that went into the spark plug you are installing. Iridium plugs have very small fine, and BRITTLE electrode surfaces. Prone to damage by "adjusting" and repeated "measuring" the gaps. Many iridiums come "pre gapped" in the package, to avoid the manly user from damaging them before installing - even if the "pre-gap" is not the number published. I think they are safe to use out of the box (Iridiums), and you risk damage from bending the arms and measuring with the crude autozone gap ruler. If you have ever removed old spark plugs on cars that are running just fine, many have worn electrodes and huge gaps that are way beyond the factory spec. (in fact in my '11 T&C, that I changed the spark plugs, this past summer, the plug gaps on the old plugs were visibly huge - I assume never changed since new).  

I am one of those people that will re-gap plugs before installing them. Now, the fanciest plug I think I have ever bought was a standard NGK. Unless you are racing at the top level I doubt .005” is gonna hurt anything, but all my plugs would be gapped to the small spec and within .001”. I imagine that when I replace the plugs in my van I will be using Iridium plugs and I will not even check the gap. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk  

I think the general statement is that iridium plugs should be used as is, otherwise understand that you take the risk personally for adjusting the gap and damaging the iridium. You can get deep into the weeds on spark performance, and optimal profiles and what the electrode looks like and burn characteristics.... But it is wanker material .  

I've been something of an electrical wizard on cars for 50 years. When electronic ignitions appeared in the early 1970s I started setting plugs at .050 for all makes and models. Works like a charm. 50,000-100,000 miles depending on plug type.  

By the way, iridium plugs have iridium on both electrodes, not just the pointy one, so be careful bending the elbow too.  

Platinum plugs CAN have platinum on both electrodes, but I don’t think iridium plugs do, at least as far as NGK and Denso are concerned.  

Bosch and some others have double iridium. Champion 9407 = nope, just looked at one.  

Hard to see unless you notice. I just looked at a Denso plug on my desk, and yes it does, but it's for a Subaru -chryslers must be cheated. Check before sliding that gauge in there.  

@Jeepman “Anybody take any measurements of gaps on removed plugs and at what mileage?” Just checked my old spark plugs and on average the gap was .055 inches. They’re from a 2017 DGC. Spark plugs were changed at 104k miles and 4200 engine hours.  

Mtfix20 said: @Jeepman “Anybody take any measurements of gaps on removed plugs and at what mileage?” Just checked my old spark plugs and on average the gap was .055 inches. They’re from a 2017 DGC. Spark plugs were changed at 104k miles and 4200 engine hours. Click to expand...

The gap setting is different for each vehicle but most are somewhere between 0.028" and .060". Consult the owner's manual or Champion® catalog to find the recommended setting for the vehicle you're working on. Click to expand...

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Spark Plug Replacement for 3.6L Pentastar

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• Intro (the part you’re reading now)
• Spark Plug Choices/Specs
• Tools to Consider
• Removing the Intake Plenum
• Replacing the Spark Plugs
• Part # 9407 (MOPAR part # SP149125AD )
• .043” gap (per Service Manual)
• Torque to 13 lb/ft
• Part # XP5701
• .044” gap (per Autolite)
• Part # 1989
• .043”/.044” gap (per Nuke)

Nuke said: Part 2: Spark Plug Choices/Specs First, you are going to want to make sure you can procure yourself a set (6) of replacement spark plugs before you start tearing things apart. You can get them from your local Dodge dealership’s Parts Department (Champion), or you can get them from one of your local auto parts stores (Autolite/NGK). You will probably find that availability dictates your source/brand here. Here’s the part numbers (and pertinent info for each brand) of spark plug currently available: 3.6L Pentastar spark plugs Champion RER8ZWYCB4 (OEM) Part # 9407 (MOPAR part # SP149125AD ) .043” gap (per Service Manual) Torque to 13 lb/ft Autolite XP Iridium Part # XP5701 .044” gap (per Autolite) Torque to 13 lb/ft NGK Laser Iridium Part # 9723 .043”/.044” gap (per Nuke) Torque to 13 lb/ft You may notice the difference in listed gaps of the various spark plugs above. That is due to a) what I’ve read, b) what I’ve seen, and c) what I think. a) The Service Manual says the OE plugs should be gapped at .043”, and I am assuming that is a spec from Champion for their plug, so I have repeated it here. b) The Autolite XP plugs listed .044” as their gap spec, and that’s what they were out of the box (most of them anyway), but I double-checked each spark plug before installing it. c) I have no info on the NGKs either way, but I’m guessing you’ll be fine if you gap them at either .043” or .044” before installation. Just make sure they are all the same, whichever gap you settle upon. Click to expand...

• Wait until the cylinder head has cooled off completely!
• Disconnect each of the coil packs from the wiring harness.
• Remove the 10mm bolts holding the coil packs to the valve cover.
• Remove the coil packs by turning them a half turn or so and pulling up at the same time. There is a spark plug boot attached to the bottom of each coil pack that seats onto the spark plug at the bottom of the valve cover tube. Once the boot is loose from the spark plug, just pull it up and out.
• Blow out the spark plug tube inside the valve cover with the compressed air to remove any debris that might have found its way into the tube, e.g. die-electric grease dandruff from the plug boot, sand, etc. You’ll want to be thorough here, as anything left down in there will make its way into the combustion chamber once the spark plug has been removed, and that is NOT conducive to optimum air/fuel combustion!
• Remove spark plug and replace with new one. I recommend only hand tightening the plugs at insertion to make sure none get cross-threaded in cylinder head.
• Torque new one down ( 13 lb/ft !).
• Put some die-electric grease in the end of the plug boot.
• Replace coil pack/plug boot by slowly pushing down as you rotate the assembly to ensure snugness of boot on plug end.
• Hand tighten the 10mm bolt holding down the coil pack to the valve cover to make sure none get cross threaded.
• Torque down the 10mm bolts holding coil packs to valve cover. ?Torque spec? I don’t have it, and never knew it. I just used ratchet and socket to go an eighth turn past hand tight. Not too much, not too little. Use common sense here, and you’ll be fine.

Part 6: Wrap-UP This section contains some notes and such I had from when I replaced my spark plugs, and I wanted to include it somewhere in this write up for you to keep in mind while doing yours. ¾ The Champion brand plugs are what comes in the engine from the factory, and they are what you will get from the Dodge dealership’s Parts Department if you buy your replacements there. I went with the Autolite XP Iridium kind when I replaced mine (I already had one of that kind in engine when general plug replacement was decided upon, so I just bought 5 more of same kind to save time, trouble, and money), and have no complaints at all. I have put about 15K miles on them since changing them without any problems, and my MPG numbers, 0-60 times, etc. are all similar to when running the Champions. So I would say the Autolite XP plugs are a suitable choice for a replacement spark plug if you wish to use them. I haven’t heard or read anything about the NGK’s being used in this engine. If you want to be a pioneer and try some in your car, please post up a review of their performance after a few thousand miles. ¾ WARNING: 12mm SPARK PLUGS MUST NOT BE OVER-TORQUED! ​ “The 3.6L Pentastar engine is the first Chrysler engine to use 12mm spark plugs. With the introduction of this smaller spark plug is a concern that can occur usually not seen with larger 14mm plugs - when the smaller 12mm spark plugs are over-torqued, the metal shell stretches, resulting in improper heat transfer from the ceramic through the shell. This in turn can cause engine damage, due to pre-ignition.” Regardless of brand, torque spec is 13 lb/ft (17.5 Nm) ¾ There is a rubber gasket between the intake plenum and the intake manifold, but it is integrated into the bottom of the plenum and not removable. Further, no gasket sealant or silicone “goop” is necessary at assembly – just put the two pieces flush together and tighten/torque the bolts down. ¾ Depending on whether or not you are running a Catch Can (and how long you have been running it if you are), you may find that your intake plenum is coated in motor oil and even dripping with it once you get it off the engine. If this is the case, you may want to try to clean it some before you reinstall it after installing new plugs. Mine was a little oily, so I did clean mine. I used WD-40 (or was it Carb-Choke cleaner?) on mine and allowed to dry for 12 hours or so while I finished up the rest of the tasks at hand. I’m sure someone will chastise me for my choice of cleaning chemicals, and rightly so, but my state of mind at the time wasn’t very good, so my car’s lucky I didn’t have anything more harmful at hand when I did the cleaning, because I probably would have used it! ¾ That’s about it. I will include some more pictures I took during the process on mine just to give you a visual reference of what things will look like through the whole process. Check those out below (attached). EDIT : A user asked me about the second to last picture in this post, and I realized it is a little out of place down here in section 6 when it should be up in the tool section. I would have posted it up there, but there is a limit to the number of pictures that can be attached to a single post, so I could not include this pic with the other tools. If you were to take the tools shown in the last two pics of the tool section above, the pic in question down here is what the combination of those two tools looks like. I forget what those little nut-driver things are called, but they have a socket driver on one end and a standard sized bolt head on the other. This allows you to use a socket without a ratchet by turning the socket via a wrench. That's not something that will be needed very often, but in this case, on the left side bracket bolts, that little contraption was semi-useful because the sockets design kept it from falling off the bolt head even though the bolt is on a downward angle, and the nut-driver was a necessity because there was no room to get a ratchet to turn the socket once on the bolt head. Clear as mud?  

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After-Post Post Well, that's about as good as I could get it to come out unfortunately. I had it all typed up in a Word document with inline pics and everything, but things got all screwed up in the copy and paste between there and the New Post pages. I probably should have seen that coming. Oh well, y'all are intelligent folks I reckon. You'll be able to figure it out. The info's all there, it's just not as pretty as I wanted to it to be. So set you to your tasks!! Nuke, OUT!!  

I for one, really appreciate your write up here. I had NO idea it was this involved. I miss the old days when changing plugs was a 10 minute job.  

Thanks...I tried to include everything I gathered in researching the process beforehand for my plug replacement, as well as all the little 'gotchas' that didn't come up in research beforehand but which I learned the hard way after actually doing the process. I figure it's better to include it all and let the reader filter out what they already knew or thought to be common sense. But in doing so, I realize it's very possible I made the whole task sound more difficult, or 'undoable', than it really is. Anyone that is mechanically inclined and has a good set of tools can probably do this. It's just that getting that damned plenum loose (and back on) is a real bas-turd...but it can be done...just not quickly. I hear ya though on the longing for simpler times...I had a car once that required I clean the plugs about once a month cause they would foul so quickly. If that were the case with this engine, I think I would rather drink a cup of burnt transmission fluid each day until I died. I'm too tall and too old to be doing this plug swap process more than once a 100K miles!  

Thank you thank you thank you!!!! Nuke your the best! Also like the color of your car...mine is same.  

Glad I could help. After you get your plugs changed, if you find I did something the hard way, or if you find some special wrench/socket/etc. made some part of the job easier, then please post an addendum post to this thread with the details. I am not so vain as to think my process is the best approach, but it was the best approach for me at the time. But if I missed something, overlooked something, or just generally did something the hard way, I'll be glad to edit my original posts to include new/better info or point to a post with an alternate idea on one of the steps. Thanks, Nuke  

Man your a life saver! Great write up! Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App  

WOOHOO!! I finally figured out why I couldn't ever get the attached pics to insert inline with their respective text - their dimensions were too large. So, I resized them to acceptable dimensions and inserted them inline with the text that talks about them. WOOHOO!! Man, that's been bothering me ever since I created this thread...now I can finally go out and resume my life, what's left of it...  

One more update: it was brought to my attention that one of the pics in the last section is a little out of context (the one with the socket with a bolt head sticking out of it.), so I edited that section to add an explanation about that tool's origin, and I also edited the 3rd section with the tools to reflect the same (because that tool is the result of combining two of the tools from section 3). Thanks to SoChallenged for pointing my inadequacies, I encourage others to do the same.  

Nuke said: I also recently ran across a little tool which I purchased specifically for the Pentastar spark plug change, and I wanted to document it for anyone not aware of its existence. There are two hose clamps you will need to disengage in the Challenger engine compartment which are difficult to get loose if you do not have the proper tool (both are on the PCV line onright side of engine/intake). Here is one such tool: View attachment 240929 View attachment 240937 Notice the claws that can be moved back and forth, that's how it grabs the hose clamps it is so that the target hose clamp can be grabbed and held while pressure is applied/added to compress the clamp and get it move down the tube it's clamping The jaws are driven by a worm screw that runs along the top of the tool, and that action is driven by with a 1/4 ratchet (no socket; just the ratchet. There are only two of these clamps on the Pentastar that you need to worry about while doing the plug change, but I could not get anything else to work except this, so keep that in mind. Click to expand...

Thank you for this great post. Your information saved me a lot of time. I was able to complete the job in 2 hours 30 minutes due to your instructions.  

Two and half hours? TWO AND A HALF HOURS?!? It took me twice that the 2nd time I did it, and I knew what to expect... That's it, I'm taking out some of the detail from this thread, if I had to suffer, so should you!! Just kidding of course, glad I could be of some help. Nuke  

This really needs to be a sticky! Thanks for taking the trouble to document this. What year 3.6 did you work on? My 2014 appears to have all the AC lines tucked back on the firewall. It's tough to get a camera back there, but I didn't see any AC lines attached to the plenum. Maybe I'm missing it. Anyway it'll be a while before I have to deal with it, so thanks again!  

Mine was a 2011, which was the 1st year of the Pentastar, so they may have rerouted the a/c lines in subsequent year's designs, maybe someone can check and update this thread if so. I say they were a/c lines, but that's only because they were stainless steel and appeared to be going into/out of the compressor. They could have been for something else and just run through metal lines because they were so close to the exhaust manifolds. Whatever they were, they ran alongside the left of the motor in between the exhaust manifolds and the fender well, and they used the rear-most plenum bracket's bolt to attach to for their own little bracket. Them being in the way of getting to that bracket's bolt would be a great reason for rerouting their path up to front of the motor IMO, so I can certainly see where later models of the Pentastar would not have them hindering the access to the plenum bracket's bottom bolts at the exhaust manifold. If that is the case, you non-2011 Pentastar gentlemen should consider yourselves lucky, cause those metal lines were a considerable hindrance to my efforts at loosening the bracket bolts. I called them names I'm ashamed to even admit I've ever even uttered out loud. But they deserved it at the time, AND THEY KNOW IT!  

Nope, I see it now, buried down there on the driver's side. Looks like a lot of fun.  

Oh yes, it's a blast. Matter of fact, if I were to rank it using my "as fun as..." scale, I would have to say it is at least as fun as spending a night in county jail, but not quite as fun as roofing a house while hung over.  

How many miles were on your plugs at time of removal? Were the new plug performance noticeably better? I hate my work connection as it wont let me look at the larger pic's!  

I had 70K on mine when I did them, which is a little early, but I had already taken the intake off so figured I better do them then. I didn't notice a difference, but that's not unusual I don't think, as they were 100K mile plugs and still had life in them. IMHO, you wont notice a difference unless the plugs in there are really bad off, and that wont happen until 150K miles or more at least.  

The combination of coil-over-plug and platinum 100K plugs in these motors creates a situation where the ignition system is able to perform at peak level for an extended amount of miles, and also compensate for any degradation in performance that might occur slowly over time. So ultimately what you have is a scenario where you only need to change plugs according to maint schedule, and when you do, you are only guaranteeing that the performance is maintained going forward, but not improved per se because there really is no room for improvement  

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU for this write up. That said, here's my deal... I searched all over the web for a write up like this, but I don't have a Dodge... I have a Jeep Grand Cherokee with the same engine. Turns out, it sucks just as bad, if not worse!!! I had a few things go wrong.... First, I followed some advice from a few sources that said instead of losening the lower upper intake manifold bracket nuts, to use a E5 socket and remove the stub from the manifold. This worked... until I got to the one by the throttle body. This one stripped almost instantly, and then it wouldn't come out. So, I don't have a new stud there. Is it necessary? Oh, and the post at the bottom of the resonator on the Jeep broke. I also ended up snapping the vacuum harness. It is kind of brittle. It took me well over 4 hours just to get the manifold off. I have all of the tools mentioned here and then some.. but on the Jeep, I ended up laying on top of the radiator most of the time because I'm 5'7" short and couldn't reach hardly any of the things I needed to. Putting it back wasn't much fun either. I would LOVE to see a video of someone doing this "the correct way". So, plugs replaced easily enough... Can someone find me the part number for the studs that have the threads and T-5 end on them? I can't seem to locate it in the parts guide... Or are these going to be part of the whole manifold? So anyways, I joined this forum just to post this reply.  

Just changed my spark plugs Saturday. Biggest problem is the nut and stud on the lower drivers side bracket. The back one that holds the radiator tube. After that it is a piece of cake. Took me 1 hour 30 minutes to complete. Thanks for the write up.  

The Autolite XP5701 spark plugs are the wrong reach as are several others listed on various web sites for this engine. It is about 1/16th inch shorter. (better than long and crashing into a piston I suppose). NGK #93911 and #93175 are the same as the Autolite above. NGK #9723 is the correct reach. Not sure however how the heat range compares to the OEM Champion. It would be good to see more information regarding all this. At this point I need to get this engine back together and would rather not do this again, and if detonation happens hopefully it will be dialed back through the knock sensors.  

The knock sensors will pick up any detonation (real and imagined) and tell the PCM so it can pull spark timing, that’s not an issue. I found they were too sensitive in fact, reporting knock when there wasn’t any. Better safe than sorry though I guess... As far as how the different plugs compare on heat range and other aspects, if I were to try to compile that info for comparison, I’d probably start with RockAuto’s website to pull each plugs specs, and then I’d hit each mfgr’s website to get a heat range table for comparing and contrasting their respective heat range ratings versus what I was looking to get in the replacement plug. That’s what I had to do for the most recent spark plug experiment I performed on my 5.7L where I purchased 16 plugs of several different brands to compare in the engne. It took a while to compile the info, but I was able to get it done eventually (so that all plugs were the same heat range).  

Thanks for the quick reply and part of my intention with this is to just compare the engine performance with the new plugs. Power and fuel economy have always been outstanding so the OEM baseline is good. If the new plugs duplicate that, all is good.  

I would be very surprised if a change in plug type or brand could have a significant MPG affect on those 3.6L engines. They are already running at peak efficiency just about, I just don’t think there’s much room for improvement. I tried to see if I could find an increase in MPGs or performance in my 5.7L by doing that, and I saw no real difference between the various types (Copper, Platinum, Iridium, etc) or brands (Champion, Autolite, NGK). Where I did end up seeing the biggest change in MPGs in this 5.7L, and I seem to remember the same holding true for the 3.6L, was in how spirited my driving was or wasn’t. Setting the cruise control around town and on long trips will return 3-4 MPG better mileage than having lots of WOT on the same trip(s). Changing out spark plugs never affected the MPGs that much, that I saw anyway.  

I certainly don't expect any improvement in engine performance with spark plug replacement. I will just compare to the OEM baseline that there is not a reduction in engine performance. Yes, driving conditions make a huge difference to fuel economy. Driving easy at 65 to 70 mph over the mountains and back from the Front Range in Colorado nets 31.5 mpg. Maintaining 75 to 80 mph heading north on I-25 through Wyoming with a 30 to 50 mph crosswind drops the fuel mileage below 21 mpg. One key to the best mileage is keeping it in high gear. So not using the cruise control and letting the speed drop a little on inclines is sometimes the best way to accomplish that. This 3.6 Pentastar is fantastically efficient with 78.6 to 84.7 bhp/litre depending on the application. While the 5.7 in chargers and Challengers is 65.2 bhp/litre. The 392 gets 75.8 bhp/litre still not equaling the weakest 3.6. If they made 3.6 Challengers with the Tremec 6 speed I could be very interested in that. In the meantime if the right deal comes along for Scat Pack or T/A 392 I could be tempted.  

Real 300 said: I certainly don't expect any improvement in engine performance with spark plug replacement. I will just compare to the OEM baseline that there is not a reduction in engine performance. Yes, driving conditions make a huge difference to fuel economy. Driving easy at 65 to 70 mph over the mountains and back from the Front Range in Colorado nets 31.5 mpg. Maintaining 75 to 80 mph heading north on I-25 through Wyoming with a 30 to 50 mph crosswind drops the fuel mileage below 21 mpg. One key to the best mileage is keeping it in high gear. So not using the cruise control and letting the speed drop a little on inclines is sometimes the best way to accomplish that. This 3.6 Pentastar is fantastically efficient with 78.6 to 84.7 bhp/litre depending on the application. While the 5.7 in chargers and Challengers is 65.2 bhp/litre. The 392 gets 75.8 bhp/litre still not equaling the weakest 3.6. If they made 3.6 Challengers with the Tremec 6 speed I could be very interested in that. In the meantime if the right deal comes along for Scat Pack or T/A 392 I could be tempted. Click to expand...

Great info here. Thank you. Opinion: I use NGK’s in everything I own. 440, 5.7, 6.2. the best.  

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spark plug gap - .045 too much?

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I'm heading to the 1/8 track in the morning so I pulled the #1 & #2 plugs to inspect color for correct rich/lean/temp range. The color is perfect, but they are gapped at .045 When I installed them I gapped them at .040 Is an increase of .005 over a 5 month period normal? Is .045 too much gap? The truck runs good, but I don't know if I should go through the trouble of pulling them all and re-gapping them back to .040 The MDS ignition should have enough juice to push the gap open more, but I wanted to get yall's opinion on what gap I should be using. Thanks in advance.  

I wouldnt go over .10 overstock , so with mine stock at .035 i run mine at .038-.040 , also msd says to keep opening the gap till there is a running issue and back it off , i also ran my truck with 0.50 gap on the stock ingition with no problems.. Its your call , and what the plugs look like if you should keep the same gap or increase/decrease the gap...  

thanks. Your gap should be .40 as well, atleast that's what the sticker underhood on mine says.  

Nope mine says .035 , odd that 97 is .040 ..must of been the year they start using the .040 unless its a cali truck then i can see the bigger spark for emissions..  

chizzle1 said: Is an increase of .005 over a 5 month period normal? . Click to expand...

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Spark Plugs for my 3.6?

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I have a 2018 Dodge Charger SXT Plus with a 3.6 Pentastar V6. It is approaching 85k miles. It is time for me to change the spark plugs—the Mopar-brand spark plug cost $17.17 each (rockauto.com). I don't want to spend $17 for each plug. Is there an alternate brand I can use for my car? I do not want Iridium, Platinum, etc. I don't think they will work very well for the Pentastar engine. I am thinking of good ol' Champion copper spark plugs. I am looking for OEM-like spark plugs. I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 4.0L engine (straight six-cylinder). This engine uses Champion copper plugs. They work very well. I have heard some people installed fancy (precious metals) spark plugs and they had serious issues with the engine. That is why I am concerned about putting the RIGHT type of plug for my Charger with 3.6 V6. Oh, which brand gasket do you recommend for the intake manifold? Mopar or Fel-Pro? or ?? What's the torque for bolting down the manifold to the top part of the engine? THANKS  

MadMax: The oem plugs are rated at 100k. Is there a drivability, or other issue that causes you to think they are worn out? I like to run the oem spec plugs in my vehicles. Champion Coppers are good plugs, but not really beyond 50k. Dodge specs that they be changed around 30k. If you shop around, you may be able to get a little better than $17 per, but there are only 6 of them. $100 for plugs every 100k, isn't bad. Remember, the Hemi has 16. Don  

I've noticed slight hesitation during acceleration. I knew that it's the plugs. Thanks for your advice. I'll go with OEM at $17 each plugs. It should be worth it.  

Stick with the Mopar SP149125xx plugs. Some use Champion and others use NGK. Ive heard a very few folks complain of pinging with NGK. Given the amount of work to replace plugs on the 3.6 I would stick with OEM. Do not get a Felpro set of seals for the upper intake manifold. Buy a set from Mahle. As far as the torque, i don't know that and do not want to mislead you so maybe do some Google search or access a service manual. And while you are performing the 100,000 service schedule what is your plan for the PCv valve inspection due at the same time.  

ONEZ ST said: Stick with the Mopar SP149125xx plugs. Some use Champion and others use NGK. Ive heard a very few folks complain of pinging with NGK. Given the amount of work to replace plugs on the 3.6 I would stick with OEM. Do not get a Felpro set of seals for the upper intake manifold. Buy a set from Mahle. As far as the torque, i don't know that and do not want to mislead you so maybe do some Google search or access a service manual. And while you are performing the 100,000 service schedule what is your plan for the PCv valve inspection due at the same time. Click to expand...

I use the NGK Silver Iridium, absolutely no issues. If you don’t like that route, stick with OEM.  

I'll stick with OEM. thanks.  

Amazon.com: Dodge Charger Promaster Jeep Wrangler Set Of Six (6) Spark Plugs OEM : Automotive

Mopar has superseded their branded 3.6 plugs numerous times over the year as the 3.6 has been coupled to ESS that stops and starts each red light, and the addition of eTorque, etc. Ditto for the plug gap that can range from .040 to 044. Way too much varies with the 3.6L from application to apllication (car vs truck vs Jeep) I personally fInd it best to go to the dealership and get exactly what they show for the car. The latest plug for my Jeep retails at $19 each. A hefty price but fortunately it only takes 6 plugs. The stupid price goes with the stupid design that requires disassembly to replace the passenger bank.  

When I remember, I always depress the Autostart disable button on my 3.6L Durango, so no AS for me. Don  

The other thing madmax99, is plug torque. The 3.6 uses a 12mm plug, not a 14mm plug. The 12mm plug is prone to damage which can affect the heat range. So be sure you torque these to spec.  

Torque for the plugs: 13 ft./lbs (-/+ 2 lbs) ??  

Does anybody know what is torque (ft/lbs) for the bolts that are holding down the intake manifold to the engine?  

2017 Dodge Charger 3.6L Engine Torque Specs| Dodge Specs

Damn $17 dollars is alot of money for ONE spark plug 😭😭  

Dealership retail is now over $21 a plug. They are made by Champion and branded for Mopar.  

I’m sticking with the NGK Silver Iridium, they have been a GREAT plug. No issues whatsoever.  

I believe NGK makes them for Dodge. You can probably find the same plug sans the Dodge name for a bit less. They are darned good plugs though, so I'd stick with them if you can. Don  

I would stick with iridium plugs due to the fact of better gas mileage and engine performance .I'm doing mine,along with Mopar coils,new MAP sensor,water pump,aluminum coolant outlet,aluminum thermostat and housing,belt, belt tensioner ,and belt pulley.all new radiator hoses.cutting out the POC plastic heater hose "T"ee and replacing with metal "T"ee fitting bought from home Depot(1"x1"x1/2" ).doing a complete cooling system flush and fill.clean the intake throttle.drain all the 75W-140 differ ential fluid and refill. Draining the NAG1 trans mission fluid by stopping the trany pan.drilling out the oil pan and installing a drain plug.spra y under coat on trany pan bottom. Put new trany pan gasket and bolt on at 71 in lbs.and refilling with Valvoline ATF+4 Full Synthetic trany fluid. And use a dip stick gauging tool on it at 160°F-165°F per the spec sheet that comes with the dip stick gauge( 60 mm-65mm on stick)and it's full and ready for another 120,000 + miles.may be a 250,000 to 350,000 mile or more car. So GO TO EBAY and ORDER A SET OF MOPAR IRIDIUM PLUGS WITH IGNITION COILS( CHAM PION PLUGS and CHRYSLER IGNITION COILS that are factory OE parts for $120.00 like I did) okay !!!!  

Lower manifold bolts( if you replace the crap plastic Oil Filter Housing with AN ALUMINUM ONE- I put in a SKP with orange cap-- DORMAN has been having problems with there oil cooler and O- rings).106 in lbs. Upper manifold intake bolts torque- 89 in lbs.oil cooler housing bolts-106 in lbs.coplant pipe crossover out- 96 in lbs,thermostat housing bolts- 108 in lbs. Spark plugs 10 to 13ft lbs( not inch pound given this time okay).  

Put some split fire spark plugs in there. Haha  

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• 3.6L Pentastar

3.6 spark plug change

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Has anyone changed the spark plugs on their 3.6? I tried searching the forum but seem to have come up empty. I've done the spark plugs on the rwd 3.5 before which is a complete pita since you have to remove the intake plenum and it looks to be the same on this engine. I just want to get my ducks in a row before I eff something up.  

Are you at 100,000 miles already?  

maust1 said: Are you at 100,000 miles already? Click to expand...

the pentastar engines have 100k for plugs. What are you reading? and yes, the plenum has to come off, making the top ones easy as cake, the ones against the firewall an absolute nightmare  

You would be the first I know of to change them. They technically are 100K plugs but I will probably pull mine out at 50K just because. I'm pretty sure you have to pull the intake off but it shouldn't be too hard from what I'm seeing.  

348HEMIRAM said: You would be the first I know of to change them. They technically are 100K plugs but I will probably pull mine out at 50K just because. I'm pretty sure you have to pull the intake off but it shouldn't be too hard from what I'm seeing. Click to expand...

I changed mine at ~30k and I have 36k on my car now. I originally changed them because there was a slight misfire going on and a stuttering under hard acceleration coming off of onramps on the highway. Of course the dealer couldn't duplicate the issue, but I've dealt with this numerous times on all of the Grand Prix's I've had over the years. Besides from removing the plenum and the stupid air baffle near the throttle body, the plugs are simple to change. Took me all of about 10 minutes to change them after fighting with the plenum removal for about 40 minutes. And fyi, I don't care who says the original plugs are good for 100k, mine looked like hell with only 30k on them. I replaced them with Denso plugs and I haven't had any issues.  

Dunno, I am at 43k and not seeing any issues with my plugs yet. Haven't taken them out to inspect either, but have no real reason to yet...  

Were they oil fouled or what? Anything an oil catch can would help?  

The 2.4 is every 30,000 miles and the site is a generic schedule.  

maust1 said: The 2.4 is every 30,000 miles and the site is a generic schedule. Click to expand...

markw said: Were they oil fouled or what? Anything an oil catch can would help? Click to expand...

100k miles under normal driving conditions. i can tell you, anything here in Texas is not normal. i just changed them in my wife's Edge and now have problems. im sure it's all coincidence, but still.  

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• Engine & Transmission

How to change spark plugs on a 2012 DJ with V6 and question on rough idle

By 2004CSOTP March 15, 2015 in Engine & Transmission

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This is my first time posting on this forum. I have a 2012 DJ with the V6. It was at the dealer a few weeks ago for misfiring. They replaced an ignition coil on cylinder number 3 and recommended I replace the spark plugs, air filter, and flush the fuel system. I thought 100 bucks for an air filter and 500 to change spark plugs was too much so i just had them change the coil. When I got it back, I replaced the air filter myself (12 bucks) and ran fuel system cleaner through it. The misfire and low speed shaking were gone, but now the shaking is back. I'm going to change the spark plugs, but I'm not convinced that's the cause of the shaking.

First, I can't seem to find information on how to remove the intake manifold to get at the spark plugs. If someone could point me in the right direction, that would help. I've done a google search and searched this forum without luck. Also, the low speed shake (most obvious at about 1 mph) seems to be a common problem. Has anyone else had this on a V6? Thanks for your help.

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Welcome to the forum. No shake from my V6 - 3.6 Pentastar. Which engine do you have and how many miles are on it?

It's a 6 cylinder, I believe a 3.6, and it has 88,000 miles on it.

check thur the forum for the spark plug info i remember someone putting info on how to get to them...

Hello all, This is my first time posting on this forum. I have a 2012 DJ with the V6. It was at the dealer a few weeks ago for misfiring. They replaced an ignition coil on cylinder number 3 and recommended I replace the spark plugs, air filter, and flush the fuel system. I thought 100 bucks for an air filter and 500 to change spark plugs was too much so i just had them change the coil. When I got it back, I replaced the air filter myself (12 bucks) and ran fuel system cleaner through it. The misfire and low speed shaking were gone, but now the shaking is back. I'm going to change the spark plugs, but I'm not convinced that's the cause of the shaking. First, I can't seem to find information on how to remove the intake manifold to get at the spark plugs. If someone could point me in the right direction, that would help. I've done a google search and searched this forum without luck. Also, the low speed shake (most obvious at about 1 mph) seems to be a common problem. Has anyone else had this on a V6? Thanks for your help.

ask journey SeXT...for any info he posted info on the 4cly for a fellow member and he said he planned on doing his 3.6...too much into the engine for me think ill let a mechanic do it...

Not sure there s a write up on here. You could be the first. Take lots of pics.

take one plug lead of, start the engine, listen to engine noise, turn engine off , put plug lead back on. repeat until you have removed them all..

each time you remove a plug lead you will notice the engine sounds different a bit rougher as its running on less cylinders

when you get to the faulty plug you will notice as removing the plug lead will make no difference to the sound of the engine, thats the faulty plug

or just change them all :P get yourself a plug spanner, pull the plug leads off, unscrew the old plugs, screw the new ones in (but dont over tighten)

thats pretty much about it :P

you could always take the plug out 1 by 1 leaving it attached to the plug lead and see which ones are sparking and which ones arent that works too

Journey_SeXT

Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.

Remove the engine cover (1).

Remove the resonator (1) (Refer to Engine/Air Intake System/RESONATOR, Air Cleaner - Removal) .

Disconnect the electrical connectors from the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (1) and the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) (7).

Disengage the ETC harness from the clip (8) on the throttle body. Disengage the wire harness retainers (4 and 5) from the upper intake manifold near the MAP sensor and reposition the wire harness.

Disconnect the following hoses from the upper intake manifold:

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) (3)

vapor purge (6)

brake booster (2)

Disengage the wire harness retainer (4) from the upper intake manifold support bracket (5).

Disengage the wire harness retainer (3) from the studbolt (2).

Remove two nuts (1), loosen the studbolt (2) and reposition the upper intake manifold support bracket (5).

Remove the nut (2) from the support bracket of the heater core return tube (1).

Remove two nuts (1), loosen two studbolts (3) and reposition the two upper intake manifold support brackets (2).

The upper intake manifold attaching bolts are captured in the upper intake manifold. Once loosened, the bolts will have to be lifted out of the lower intake manifold and held while removing the upper intake manifold.

Exercise care not to inadvertently loosen the two fuel rail attachment bolts that are in close proximity of the upper intake manifold attaching bolts.

Remove seven manifold attaching bolts (1) and remove the upper intake manifold (2).

Remove and discard the six upper to lower intake manifold seals (1).

Cover the open intake ports to prevent debris from entering the engine.

• AstralRT and Nlilje200

The LH ignition coils are shown, the RH ignition coils are similar.

Remove the ignition coil (2) (Refer to Electrical/8I - Ignition Control/COIL, Ignition - Removal) .

Prior to removing the spark plug, spray compressed air into the cylinder head opening. This will help prevent foreign material from entering the combustion chamber.

The spark plug tubes (1) are a thin wall design. Avoid damaging the spark plug tubes. Damage to the spark plug tube can result in oil leaks.

Remove the spark plug from the cylinder head using a quality thin wall socket with a rubber or foam insert.

Check and adjust the spark plug gap with a gap gauging tool (1) (Refer to Electrical/8I - Ignition Control - Specifications)

Special care should be taken when installing spark plugs into the cylinder head spark plug wells. Be sure the plugs do not drop into the plug wells as electrodes can be damaged.

Start the spark plug into the cylinder head by hand to avoid cross threading.

Spark plug torque is critical and must not exceed the specified value. Overtightening stretches the spark plug shell reducing its heat transfer capability resulting in possible catastrophic engine failure.

Tighten the spark plugs to 18 N·m (13 ft. lbs.).

• AstralRT and JimsJourney

Prior to installing the upper intake manifold, verify that the four fuel rail bolts were not inadvertently loosened. The bolts must tightened in the sequence shown to 7 N·m (62 in. lbs.) (Refer to Fuel System/Fuel Delivery/RAIL, Fuel - Installation)(Refer To List 1).

Clean and inspect the sealing surfaces. Install new upper to lower intake manifold seals (1).

Make sure the fuel injectors and wiring harnesses are in the correct position so that they don't interfere with the upper intake manifold installation.

If removed, install the insulator (2) to the two alignment posts (3) on top of the LH cylinder head cover.

Lift and hold the seven upper intake attaching bolts (1) clear of the mating surface. Back the bolts out slightly or if required, use an elastic band to hold the bolts clear of the mating surface.

Position the upper intake manifold (1) onto the lower intake manifold so that the two locating posts (2) on the upper intake manifold align with corresponding holes (3) in the lower intake manifold.

Install the seven upper intake manifold attaching bolts. Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown to 10 N·m (89 in. lbs.).

Install two nuts (1) to the upper intake manifold support bracket (5). Tighten the nuts (1) to 10 N·m (89 in. lbs.) and tighten the studbolt (2) to 20 N·m (177 in. lbs.)

Engage the wire harness retainer (3) to the studbolt (2).

Engage the wire harness retainer (4) to the upper intake manifold support bracket (5).

Install two upper intake manifold support brackets (2) with two studbolts (3) and two nuts (1). Tighten the studbolts (3) to 20 N·m (177 in. lbs.) and tighten the nuts (1) to 10 N·m (89 in. lbs.).

Install the nut (2) to the support bracket of the heater core return tube (1) and tighten to 12 N·m (106 in. lbs.).

Connect the following hoses to the upper intake manifold:

Connect the electrical connectors to the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (1) and the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) (7).

Secure the ETC harness to the clip (7) on the throttle body and engage the wire harness retainers (4 and 5) to the upper intake manifold near the MAP sensor.

Install the resonator (1) (Refer to Engine/Air Intake System/RESONATOR, Air Cleaner - Installation) .

Connect the negative battery cable and tighten nut to 5 N·m (45 in. lbs.).

Start and run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.

Install the engine cover (1).

Let me know if there is anything else you need instructions on.

• 2late4u , OhareFred , rolly and 3 others

take one plug lead of, start the engine, listen to engine noise, turn engine off , put plug lead back on. repeat until you have removed them all.. each time you remove a plug lead you will notice the engine sounds different a bit rougher as its running on less cylinders when you get to the faulty plug you will notice as removing the plug lead will make no difference to the sound of the engine, thats the faulty plug or just change them all :P get yourself a plug spanner, pull the plug leads off, unscrew the old plugs, screw the new ones in (but dont over tighten) thats pretty much about it :P you could always take the plug out 1 by 1 leaving it attached to the plug lead and see which ones are sparking and which ones arent that works too

That's after you get the intake off.

Is that all there is to it?

hey i only have the 2.0 crd diesel version :P just going off memory from when I used to own a petrol car many moons ago... :P coming to think of it I havnt owned a petrol car in over 15 years.. :P but then it is like $9 a gallon over here...

Forget it! I'll pay the dealer to do this one! You gotta be kidding me.....

• jkeaton and AWMCC

Definitely a weekend job. Lol. Hopefully we will be on our 3rd DJ by the time this one needs new plugs.

If I ever do this job I'll post the step by step pics but I'm still a whiles away from replacing them...I'm looking forward to do this job as I'm sure the cost savings and challenge will be rewarding.

• dhh3 and AstralRT

onecrazyfoo4u

Yeah f*** it. Just trade in the vehicle before it needs new plugs, lol!

Seriously though, this is my 11th vehicle I've ever owned. By far the WORST design to replace spark plugs on. I'm at 83k miles now and getting ready to replace the plugs in a few months. It looks a lot worse than it really will be. Should be able to knock it out in a couple hours.

I've had to do this on my Sebring and my sons Tiburon. Both required removal of the intake manifold. Really not that bad. Just take your time and label all connectors/vacuum lines and whattever else needs to be disconnected so it all goes back where it came from.

• 1 year later...

Connie Lopez-Lucas

I am having the same problem. I took it to get the engine read and it was also the 3rd cylinder that I am having the misfire on. I can not find any videos on how to take the manifold off to change the coil pack, but I DO NOT want to take it to a local repair because the ones around here are not ones to trust to repair it properly and to be honest about it. I live in a small town. Did you find any solutions?

Here is probably the best video you are going to get on a spark plug replacement for a 3.6L engine --> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3SqhKgoRcc

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