travel guide for edinburgh

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Edinburgh Travel Guide

Last Updated: September 1, 2023

As the capital of Scotland since the 15th century, Edinburgh has a rich history (especially literary history; the city was designated a UNESCO City of Literature in 2004). Both the Old Town and New Town are also UNESCO World Heritage sites and there are centuries of myths and legends about the spooky underbelly of the city ( which you can learn about on a haunted ghost tour .

As the second-most visited city in the UK, there are tons of things to see and do here no matter what your interests are. There are beautiful walks, historic buildings, lively pubs, huge festivals (such as the Edinburgh Fringe Festival and Hogmanay), a castle, Harry Potter tours, and much, much more.

This travel guide to Edinburgh can help you plan your trip, save money, and make the most of your visit to this historic and picturesque city!

Table of Contents

• Things to See and Do
• Typical Costs
• Suggested Budget
• Money-Saving Tips
• Where to Stay
• How to Get Around
• How to Stay Safe
• Best Places to Book Your Trip
• Related Blogs on Edinburgh

Top 5 Things to See and Do in Edinburgh

1. Visit Edinburgh Castle

Built in the 12th century, Edinburgh Castle sits on a hill overlooking the city’s Old Town. It’s the most besieged place in Great Britain and you can easily spend hours here exploring and learning the castle’s history (the Crown Jewel exhibit is worth the price alone). Admission is 15.50 GBP.

2. Hike to Arthur’s Seat

Arthur’s Seat is an extinct volcano on the outskirts of Edinburgh. With a height of 251 meters (823 feet), it provides hikers with a picturesque panorama of the city. The hike takes an hour each way. If the weather is nice, bring a picnic and spend an afternoon looking out over the city.

3. Walk the Royal Mile

This pedestrian road is lined with pubs, restaurants, and shops. While touristy (it can get crowded in the summer), it’s also incredibly beautiful and historic. There are many historical monuments and buildings to check out nearby, such as the medieval St. Giles’ Cathedral.

4. Tour Rosslyn Chapel

Founded in 1446, this historic chapel near Edinburgh was made famous in The Da Vinci Code . The chapel is ripe with intricate artwork and symbolism that has spawned many conspiracy theories. Located just an hour from Edinburgh, admission is 9.50 GBP.

5. See the Scott Monument

Other things to see and do in edinburgh, 1. take a free walking tour.

The best way to get the lay of the land is to take a walking tour. You get a feel for the city and get to see the main sights while also having a local expert on hand to answer your questions. I always take a free walking tour when I arrive at a new destination. It’s the best way to get situated. New Europe has a great free tour that lasts a couple of hours — just be sure to tip your guide at the end!

2. Hang out in Calton Hill

Calton Hill is a quiet place to escape the noise of the city and admire the view. Take a hike to the top of the hill where you can sit and relax in a peaceful park-like setting. The National Monument of Scotland (a memorial to the soldiers who fought in the Napoleonic Wars between 1803-1815) and the Nelson Monument, dedicated to Horatio Nelson (a famous 18th-century British Admiral) are located here.

3. Explore Princes Street Gardens

For another free outing, spend an afternoon at Princes Street Gardens, which boasts a beautiful view of Edinburgh Castle. The garden is composed of two main parks and dates to the 1770s, when Edinburgh’s largest lake, Nor Loch, was drained to create the park. Today, the park is beloved by tourists and visitors alike, with vendors selling food and souvenirs here. At Christmas, the Garden turns into a German-style winter fair, full of stalls selling food, mulled wine, toys, and rides (the Christmas markets usually open mid-November).

4. Tour the Museum of Edinburgh

This museum is in the 16th-century Huntly House (one of the historic buildings on the Royal Mile) and offers insight into the city and its past. The museum is home to the National Covenant (an important Scottish Presbyterian document from 1638) as well as some original city plans and a miniature of the Old Town. There are also works of art, silverware, weapons, and more. The museum is free.

5. Visit the National Gallery of Scotland

This impressive gallery is home to works by Monet, Rembrandt, Degas, Vermeer, and Van Gogh, as well as works by famous Scottish painters like Allan Ramsay, David Wilkie, and William McTaggart. Opened in 1859, the gallery was designed in the Neoclassical style to look like an ancient Greek temple. Works span the centuries from the Renaissance to the 20th century and the gallery is free to enter (some temporary exhibits have a fee).

6. Attend a summer festival

During the summer, Edinburgh is home to several huge festivals. The most popular is the Edinburgh Fringe Festival. Held in August, this festival brings in performers and entertainers of all kinds — actors, musicians, buskers, and more. The festival lasts three weeks and is the biggest festival of its kind in the world. Keep in mind that during this time, accommodation prices skyrocket and the city floods with people. If you plan to attend, make sure you book your accommodation in advance. The Edinburgh International Film Festival in June and the Edinburgh Jazz Festival in July are two other big festivals worth attending in the summer.

7. Take a ghost tour

Edinburgh has a spooky history and there are many tours that illuminate the city’s eerie past by taking you around to graveyards and through underground tunnels. Even if you don’t believe in ghosts, the tours take you to some old and interesting parts of Edinburgh. Don’t miss the Ghost Bus tour as well as a tour of the Vaults (the underground tunnels below the city) — both of which you do at night!

8. Drink some scotch

Learn how scotch is made by touring the Scotch Whisky Experience. It’s part museum, part interactive attraction (there’s even a barrel ride where you sit in a fake barrel and learn about the whisky-making process). There are also exhibits to show you the history of Scotland’s famous drink and how it came to hold such a revered place in the culture. Prices vary depending on what type of tour you want but begin at 17 GBP.

9. Celebrate Hogmanay

Hogmanay is one of the world’s biggest and most famous New Year’s Eve celebrations . Tens of thousands of people gather in the city streets to celebrate with torchlight processions, concerts, and fireworks. Prepare yourself for lots of drinking, holiday festivities, live music, and huge crowds. Book your accommodation far in advance as tens of thousands of people attend the festival.

10. Have fun at Camera Obscura

Founded in 1835, Camera Obscura is a fun and educational interactive museum. It’s home to over 100 exhibits that use light, mirrors, and technology to create stunning optical illusions. It’s located right in the heart of the Old Town making it easily accessible for anyone traveling with kids (or anyone who wants to indulge their inner child). It’s part science, part illusion, and all fun. Admission is 18 GBP.

11. Take a Harry Potter tour

If you’re a fan of J.K. Rowling’s epic fantasy series, be sure to book a spot on The Potter Trail, Edinburgh’s original Harry Potter tour. Tours are held daily and cover all the main sites in the city that relate to the books. The tour lasts 90 minutes and is accessible for both casual enthusiasts as well as die-hard fans. The tour is free, though make sure to tip your guides as well.

12. Visit St. Giles’ Cathedral

Also known as the High Kirk of Edinburgh, St. Giles’ Cathedral is located on the Royal Mile and was originally built in the 12th century. The current building dates to the 14th century and was formerly a Roman Catholic Cathedral (St. Giles is now part of the Church of Scotland). In addition to the beautiful and austere interior, the cathedral is home to some noteworthy monuments, including one to famed Scottish author Robert Louis Stevenson, who wrote Treasure Island and The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde . Admission is free. Remember that this is a place of worship, so dress respectfully.

  For more information on other cities in Scotland, check out these guides:

• Glasgow Travel Guide

Edinburgh Travel Costs

Hostel prices – Most 4-8-bed dorms cost 16-22 GBP, while a bed in a dorm with 10 or more beds costs 12-14 GBP per night. Prices tend to rise a few pounds in the summer and drop a few in the winter. Private double rooms cost 50-75 GBP per night.

Free Wi-Fi and lockers are standard and most hostels also have self-catering facilities. Free breakfast is rare, but a few hostels in the city do offer it. Be sure to book those hostels in advance if it’s a priority.

Budget hotel prices – Budget hotels cost around 50-65 GBP per night. These usually include free Wi-Fi and some offer free breakfast.

A private Airbnb room costs 30 GBP per night while entire homes/apartments start at 55 GBP per night (though most cost 70 GBP per night or more).

For those traveling with a tent, camping is another option here — especially if you head out to the nearby Loch Lomond National Park. Expect to pay around 17 GBP per night for a basic plot (which is just a flat space for a tent; electricity is generally not included). Most parks close for the winter, so availability is limited come late October/early November. If you’re in a car or campervan, you can use the app ‘park4night’ to find paid overnight parking, free overnight parking, and campgrounds.

Food – Scottish food is hearty, heavy, and filling. Seafood is abundant, and popular traditional dishes include blood pudding, minced beef, fish and chips, smoked herring, neeps and tatties (turnips and potatoes), and of course haggis (a dish composed of minced sheep’s organs and spices inside a sheep’s stomach casing). Porridge is a common breakfast choice, though a larger breakfast of sausage, eggs, beans, and bread is not uncommon either. Sticky toffee pudding is a favorite dessert, and of course, you can’t visit Scotland without sampling some scotch.

Expect to pay around 10-12 GBP for a basic meal like a Scottish breakfast or haggis. For pub food like fish and chips or a burger, prices are usually between 15-25 GBP. For a full three-course meal at a mid-range restaurant, prices begin around 30 GBP.

A pint of beer is 4 GBP while a glass of wine is around 5.50 GBP. A latte or cappuccino is around 2.70 GBP.

A classic fish and chips from a no-frills takeaway spot is around 6 GBP. Chinese takeout is around 8-10 GBP, while a basic fast food combo meal (think McDonald’s) costs around 6 GBP. Street food (like from a food truck) costs around 6-8 GBP.

The Mosque Kitchen is one of the cheapest restaurants in the entire city. You can get an excellent meal there for 6-8 GBP.

For a week’s worth of groceries, expect to pay 40-60 GBP. This covers basic staples like pasta, rice, seasonal produce, and some meat. The cheapest supermarkets to look out for are Aldi, Lidl, Asda, and Tesco.

Backpacking Edinburgh Suggested Budgets

On a backpacker budget, you can visit Edinburgh for about 55 GBP per day. This means staying in a dorm room or camping, cooking all of your meals, limiting your drinking, sticking to mostly free activities like hiking and free walking tours, and using public transportation to get around.

On a mid-range budget of about 100 GBP per day, you can stay in a private Airbnb room, eat out for most of your meals (sticking to a lot of pub foods), do more paid activities like visiting museums or galleries, enjoying a couple of drinks at the bar, and taking the occasional taxi to get around. You’re not going to live large, but you can get by without worrying too much about your spending.

On a “luxury” budget of 200 GBP or more per day, you can stay in a hotel, eat out for every meal, drink what you want, and visit as many museums and attractions as you’d like, take taxis, and do whatever else you want. This is just the ground floor for luxury though — you can easily spend more if you really want to splash out!

You can use the chart below to get some idea of how much you need to budget daily, depending on your travel style. Keep in mind these are daily averages — some days you’ll spend more, some days you’ll spend less (you might spend less every day). We just want to give you a general idea of how to make your budget. Prices are in GBP.

Edinburgh Travel Guide: Money-Saving Tips

Like the rest of the UK, Edinburgh can be expensive. Fortunately, there are lots of ways to lower your costs and save money here. Here are some quick tips to help you save money in Edinburgh:

• Get the Edinburgh City Pass – If you’re planning to explore Edinburgh, get the City Pass. For 45 GBP, you’ll get access to 22 attractions as well as free transportation to and from the airport. There is also a two-day pass for 55 GBP and a three-day pass for 65 GBP. It’s a good choice for anyone planning to see a lot.
• Eat in a pub – The best food is often in the pubs and at a fraction of the price when compared to a sit-down restaurant. If you’re going to eat out, eat here.
• Eat during lunch – Many cafes, bakeries, nd chains offer lunch deals for as little as 3-5 GBP.
• Use apps to get discounted food – The app Too Good to Go, (on which participating eateries sell severely discounted meals/groceries/baked goods at the end of the day) has good coverage all across Scotland, particularly in Edinburgh. For discounts on takeout try the app Secret Takeaways which supports local restaurants by cutting out the delivery app middlemen (and their high fees).
• Visit the free museums – The public museums in Scotland are free — so take advantage! Free attractions include The National Museum of Scotland, Scottish National Gallery, St. Giles Cathedral, the Royal Botanic Garden, and the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art.
• Avoid eating and shopping in the city centers – Edinburgh is significantly more expensive the closer you get to the city center/Old Town. There are plenty of good restaurants and quirky shops outside of the center, so go for those. Trust me, you won’t be disappointed.
• Stay with a local – Couchsurfing is the best way to save on accommodation as it’s free! You’ll not only save money but have access to a knowledgeable local who can help point you to some of the city’s hidden gems.
• Take a free walking tour – If you want to learn more about the history, architecture, and people of Scotland then be sure to take a free walking tour. They usually last a couple of hours and are a great introduction to the city.
• Cook your own meals – Food in the UK isn’t cheap. Save yourself some money and cook a few meals for yourself. It may not be as fancy as eating out, but your wallet will thank you!
• Use discount websites – Groupon, Wowcher and Living Social have good deals on accommodation, attractions, and dining out.
• Bring a water bottle – The tap water here is safe to drink so bring a reusable water bottle to save money and reduce your plastic use. LifeStraw is my go-to brand as their bottles have built-in filters to ensure your water is always clean and safe.

Where to Stay in Edinburgh

Edinburgh has plenty of hostels and they’re all pretty comfortable and sociable. These are my favorite places to stay in Edinburgh:

• Castle Rock
• Edinburgh Backpackers
• A&O Edinburgh
• Kick Ass Grassmarket

How to Get Around Edinburgh

Public transportation – Buses and trams are the most common forms of public transportation in the city. A single ticket costs 1.80 GBP and goes up from there depending on how far you go. Buses take only exact change so you may want to download the “Transport for Edinburgh” app to pay for tickets on your phone instead. You can even use it to buy tram tickets to/from the airport.

Day passes can be purchased for 4.40 GBP and a one-week ticket costs 20 GBP (does include the airport).

The Airlink bus to the airport costs 4.50 GBP for the 30-minute journey, while the tram costs 6 GBP.

Taxi – Taxis aren’t cheap here so I would avoid them as much as possible. Rates start at 3 GBP and go up by 1.40 GBP per kilometer. Stick to public transportation if you’re on a budget unless you are splitting the ride with someone.

Gett and Free Now are the two most common platforms used for taxis (they are linked to the Google Maps app so you can use that to get price estimates if you’re comparing modes of transportation). That being said, Edinburgh has safe and reliable public transportation, so I’d avoid taxis and ridesharing unless you have no other options.

Ridesharing – Uber is available in Edinburgh, but it’s not always cheaper than taxis.

Car rental – Scotland is a great road trip destination, though I would only rent a car if you’re leaving the city (or if you need it for a specific reason in the city). Getting around the city is easier without a vehicle as public transportation is reliable. I would avoid renting a car unless you’re leaving the city.

You can find rentals for 25 GBP per day and campers for as little as 30 GBP per day. Just remember that traffic flows on the left. Most vehicles are manual transmissions as well.

When to Go to Edinburgh

Summer is the most popular time to visit Edinburgh. In July and August, there’s warm weather and minimal rain, with temperatures reaching highs of around 20°C (68°F). This is also the busiest time of the year, so expect crowds in the cities and lots of people out enjoying the nearby national parks. The Edinburgh Fringe Festival takes place in August, which is a huge multi-week festival. Be sure to book your accommodation in advance if you’re visiting during this time.

September is a rather wet month, though October offers incredible fall foliage. It’s a good month for road trips — especially if you plan on renting a car or camper and heading into the Cairngorms (Scotland’s biggest national park, which is only a couple of hours from the city). Seasonal businesses and accommodations start to close in mid-October so be sure to keep that in mind when planning. Expect October temperatures to hover around 12°C (55°F) during the day.

The spring is a great time to visit, with April and May offering minimal rain and no crowds. There’s snow and cool temperatures in the highlands, but the city is lively without being crowded.

Winters in Scotland are cold and dark. December is relatively dry but the temperatures dip close to 0°C (32°F). It’s nevertheless a popular time to visit, with many tourists coming to Edinburgh for the huge Hogmanay New Year’s Eve celebration (one of the biggest New Year’s festivals in the world).

By February, snow is common so keep that in mind if you plan on renting a vehicle. Unless you’re coming to engage in winter sports, I’d avoid a winter visit unless you don’t mind the grim and grey atmosphere of the country.

How to Stay Safe in Edinburgh

Scotland is a safe country, and you won’t need to worry about crime while you’re here. Edinburgh is safe for solo travelers — including female travelers — though women should take the standard precautions when traveling alone at night (don’t travel alone intoxicated, keep an eye on your drink, etc.).

As in all cities, stay vigilant when you’re in crowded tourist areas and on public transportation as that is when pickpockets usually strike. Always keep your valuables secure and out of reach just to be safe.

If you are hiking nearby (for example, in the Cairngorms a few hours north) make sure you have the appropriate equipment and that you notify your accommodation of your plans just in case. And if you’re hiking Arthur’s Seat, expect windy conditions at the summit.

While scams here are rare, you can read about common travel scams to avoid here if you’re concerned.

If you experience an emergency, dial 999 for assistance.

The most important piece of advice I can offer is to purchase good travel insurance. Travel insurance protects you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. You can use the widget below to find the policy right for you:

Edinburgh Travel Guide: The Best Booking Resources

These are my favorite companies to use when I travel. They consistently have the best deals, offer world-class customer service and great value, and overall, are better than their competitors. They are the companies I use the most and are always the starting point in my search for travel deals.

• Skyscanner – Skyscanner is my favorite flight search engine. They search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites tend to miss. They are hands down the number one place to start.
• Hostelworld – This is the best hostel accommodation site out there with the largest inventory, best search interface, and widest availability.
• Booking.com – The best all around booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation. In all my tests, they’ve always had the cheapest rates out of all the booking websites.
• Get Your Guide – Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions. They have tons of tour options available in cities all around the world, including everything from cooking classes, walking tours, street art lessons, and more!
• SafetyWing – Safety Wing offers convenient and affordable plans tailored to digital nomads and long-term travelers. They have cheap monthly plans, great customer service, and an easy-to-use claims process that makes it perfect for those on the road.
• LifeStraw – My go-to company for reusable water bottles with built-in filters so you can ensure your drinking water is always clean and safe.
• Unbound Merino – They make lightweight, durable, easy-to-clean travel clothing.
• Top Travel Credit Cards – Points are the best way to cut down travel expenses. Here’s my favorite point earning credit cards so you can get free travel!
• BlaBlaCar – BlaBlaCar is a ridesharing website that lets you share rides with vetted local drivers by pitching in for gas. You simply request a seat, they approve, and off you go! It’s a cheaper and more interesting way to travel than by bus or train!

Edinburgh Travel Guide: Related Articles

Want more info? Check out all the articles I’ve written on backpacking/traveling Scotland and continue planning your trip:

The 6 Best Hotels in Edinburgh

The Best Walking Tours in Edinburgh

Where to Stay in Edinburgh: The Best Neighborhoods for Your Visit

The Best Ghost Tours in Edinburgh

A Complete Visitor’s Guide to Rosslyn Chapel

Searching for the Perfect Dram on Islay

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• Where To Stay
• Transportation
• Booking Resources
• Related Blogs

Planning a trip to Edinburgh? In Introducingedinburgh.com you’ll find all the necessary and up to date information on the best places to visit in the city, where to stay or the top neighbourhoods to go out for dinner and a night out , among a lot more interesting facts and figures. 

Edinburgh Travel Guide

• General Information
• Top Attractions
• Getting to Edinburgh
• Getting around Edinburgh
• Where to Eat
• Where to Stay
• 2-Day Edinburgh Itinerary

Why visit Edinburgh?

Scotland’s capital is one of the most unique and memorable cities in Europe . Edinburgh has a rare charm with narrow and cobbled passageways , called closes in Scots . The town is also known for its dark corners where terrifying events have taken place , its majestic buildings and gardens , countless fascinating museums , which are free to visit,  and, especially, the city's  kind and open locals . All the above-mentioned make this city a favorite among those who have seen it.

Edinburgh is fondly known as “Auld Reekie,”  which means “Old Smokey” in Scots. This is because of all the smoke and chimneys the city had in the past, creating smog over the city. The weather in Edinburgh is normally rainy and windy , but far from being an inconvenience, the bitter weather gives the town an extra charm, creating a mysterious and somber atmosphere.

The capital has a unique radiance when the rays of sun stream through the clouds, and when the night falls, the ghosts that refuse to leave Edinburgh  come out to haunt the streets and buildings while guides accompany curious tourists to see crypts, alleyways, and graveyards to discover the mysteries that besiege the heart of the city.

As well as countless ghost stories, Edinburgh also offers its visitors and locals a wide variety of attractions, including museums , most of which are free. Tourists can also visit a whisky distillery and learn how Scotland’s national drink is made in   the   Scotch Whisky Experience ,  discover how the Scottish people lived during the Middle Ages in the People’s Story Museum , or explore the evolution of medicine in the Surgeon’s Hall Museums .

The country’s hearty dishes combined with the traditional Scottish breakfast will probably mean you’ll go home a few pounds heavier but happy and full of extremely fond memories of the city.

With our guide, you’ll discover why Edinburgh is the second most visited city in the UK after London . Every year, over two million tourists visit Scotland’s capital city.

Need accommodation?

If you still don’t have a hotel, hostel, or apartment booked, we recommend checking out the link below, where you’ll find all types of accommodation with the best rates guaranteed. If you book in advance, you’ll be able to get up to 75% discount and pay once you get to your destination.

• Hotels in Edinburgh – Book online for the best rates guaranteed.

top activities

Edinburgh: Loch Ness, Highlands & Glencoe Day Trip Travel from Edinburgh to Loch Ness on this tour of some of the  Scottish Highlands ' most stunning attractions - an unforgettable day trip at the best price!

Edinburgh Castle Guided Tour Edinburgh Castle is the most visited monument in Scotland ; an unmissable sight in the Scottish capital. Don't miss this Edinburgh Castle Guided Tour!

Edinburgh Underground Ghost Tour Embark on a haunting journey into Edinburgh's eerie depths . Uncover the secrets within the haunted underground vaults and Greyfriars Kirkyard by night !

Edinburgh Free Tour Discover Edinburgh's Old Town with this free walking tour of one of Scotland's most beloved cities. This tour is perfect for any first-visitors to Edinburgh!

Dinner and Traditional Scottish Show Looking for fun things to do in Edinburgh ? Spend a unique evening with this Scottish folk dinner and concert , complete with lively music and local dishes.

Forth Boat Tour Make the most of your time in Edinburgh admiring one of the most emblematic feats of civil engineering on this boat tour of three Forth bridges .

Holyrood Palace Tickets Coronations, weddings, betrayal, assassination... discover the secrets of Holyrood Palace: the official residence of the queen of England and Scotland .

Edinburgh Outlander Tour Imposing castles, palaces and mythical mansions ... Discover a new side of Scotland by exploring the filming locations of the legendary TV series  Outlander .

Day Trip: Stirling, Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park Get a slice of Highland life on this day trip to western Scotland, witht scenic lochs, the old capital of Stirling, and the Trossachs: land of William Wallace.

Holy Island & Alnwick Castle Day Trip Discover the Medieval Kingdom of Northumbria: explore the ruined castles, quaint villages and wild coastline of North-East England on this tour from Edinburgh.

West Highland Lochs, Mountains & Castles Day Trip This day trip lets you enjoy a taste of all things Scottish , as we take you on a fascinating journey through the Highlands. Lochs, castles and mountains await.

Royal Edinburgh Ticket Book this Royal Edinburgh Ticket and enjoy the best of the Scottish capital city for 48 hours. Visit the Castle, the Royal Yacht and the Palace .

Get lost in the lively Scottish nightlife with this route across five of the capital's best pubs . Pints of beer, live music... let's get this party started!

Ghost Tour of Edinburgh The Scottish capital is famously haunted and there have been countless sightings of phantoms. Are you brave enough to take our ghost tour of Edinburgh ?

Edinburgh Food Tour On this Edinburgh Food Tour, you'll explore the Scottish capital through its gastronomy. You'll try traditional dishes such as haggis, neeps and tatties!

Rosslyn Chapel and the Borders Day Trip On this trip, you'll explore the mysterious Rosslyn Chapel and the border town of Melrose & its Abbey , plus a tour of a malt whisky distillery .

Stirling Castle, Loch Lomond & The Kelpies Explore the Scottish Highlands on this day trip from Edinburgh to Stirling, Loch Lomond and the Kelpies! You'll discover history and nature!

Scottish Highlands Tour Explore the Scottish Highlands on this excursion from Edinburgh and discover natural landscapes, a whisky distillery and historical monuments!

Loch Ness & the Scottish Highlands: 2 Day Tour Delve deep into the delights of Scotland. Discover spectacular mountains, rivers and lochs as you immerse yourself in the legendary history of the Highlands.

St. Andrews & Fife's Fishing Villages Day Trip Make the most of your stay in Edinburgh with this St. Andrews & Fife's Fishing Villages Day Trip. Explore the famous golfing town and quaint coastal towns.

3-Day Tour of Skye and the Highlands See the very north of Scotland , where the winds whip the wild edge of the United Kingdom. We'll see highlands highlights such as Loch Ness, Ben Nevis  and more.

Blackness Castle & Forth Bridges Cruise Enjoy a cruise to the three famous Forth bridges and the historic Blackness Castle on this  boat tour on the Firth of Forth .

Whisky Distillery Tour Discover the secrets of Scotch whisky on this  tour of the Dewar's and Glenturret distilleries from Edinburgh ​. The ideal excursion for any whisky lover!

Edinburgh Private Tour Discover the architecture, history & everyday life of Edinburgh accompanied by a private tour guide . The best way to explore Scotland's capital city!

Edinburgh Shore Excursion If you're arriving in the Scottish capital by cruise, don't miss the opportunity to immerse yourself in the city's history with this Edinburgh Shore Excursion.

Edinburgh Hard Rock Cafe Enjoy a delicious lunch or dinner at Edinburgh's Hard Rock Cafe, a restaurant full of rock and roll. Choose your menu and enjoy a fun dining experience!

Full Day Edinburgh Walking Tour + Entry Tickets On this  tour of Edinburgh , you'll visit the most important places in the city , such as the Castle and the Scotland National Gallery . 

Edinburgh Hop On Hop Off Bus Explore top Edinburgh attractions with our flexible hop-on hop-off bus tour without getting tired . Enjoy audio commentary in multiple languages!

Harry Potter Train Tour Want to travel on the Hogwarts Express ? Travel through Scotland's breathtaking scenery on board the Jacobite with this  Harry Potter Train Tour .

Edinburgh Christmas Tour We'll admire Christmas markets and dreamy lights  on this Christmas Tour in Edinburgh . Explore the Scottish capital at this magical time of year!

Outlander Tour While in the Scottish capital , take a page from Jamie Fraser 's book and embark on our Outlander tour through Edinburgh to see iconic sites from the hit series !

This guide has been made by exploring each street, taking photos of every nook and cranny, and paying attention to each and every little detail to help you prepare your trip in the best way possible .

All the information in this guide was updated in March 2023 . If you see any errors or anything we should change, we would be delighted to hear from you .

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Edinburgh Travel Guide

There used to be a down season in Edinburgh, when Scotland's capital city—with its beautiful Gothic buildings, cobblestoned Royal Mile, and 12th-century castle keeping watch on a hilltop—caught a slight breather from tourists. But no longer. The crowds keep coming, all year long, because they've caught onto why this city generally is the first stop on a trip to Scotland. Edinburgh is most famous for its wild arts and performance festival, which takes place every year for the full month of August—when the days are longer, and the weather warmer. But the Scottish capital is a romantic spot for a winter-city break, too. With a buzzing dining scene, not to mention an expanded emphasis on drinks beyond suds and whisky, this is a city that artfully balances the (very) old with the new. Dive into our guide to find out why this might be Europe's hottest capital right now.

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Edinburgh for first-timers

Jan 24, 2019 • 5 min read

Edinburgh Castle and Princes St Gardens © German Vidal / Getty Images

Edinburgh is an unbeatable city, steeped in history, culture, nature, architecture and constantly shifting northern light. From royal ships and ancient volcanoes to dockside dining and peaceful canals, here are 10 highlights of Scotland's majestic capital that no first-time visitor should miss.

Edinburgh Castle

A 12th-century fortress perched atop an extinct volcano with the elegant sprawl of Princes St Gardens in its shadow, Edinburgh Castle dominates the skyline and is Scotland’s most popular attraction. Inside you’ll find the Royal Apartments, the Stone of Destiny, prison vaults and a chapel that’s the oldest building in Edinburgh . Even if you don’t do the tour you’ll catch glimpses of this towering icon wherever you are in the city, and can (sort of) hear it every day (except Sunday) when the one o’clock gun is fired from the battlements in a tradition dating back to 1861.

The Royal Mile

Here is the Edinburgh of your imagination: cobbled streets, higgledy-piggledy houses, dark wynds, dank closes, and more shops selling the holy trinity of tartan, cashmere and whisky than you can possibly imagine (or need). There’s a medieval castle at one end, Europe’s oldest inhabited palace at the other, and countless historic buildings stuffed in between, including the Scottish Parliament and St Giles Cathedral . ‘Daunder’ from top to bottom, dipping into closes and secret gardens, and eavesdropping on the ubiquitous guided tours.

National Museum of Scotland

Fresh from an ambitious £47m development, the National Museum of Scotland , one of the top twenty most visited museums and galleries in the world, is cherished by locals as much as tourists. There are more than 20,000 artefacts, from the medieval Lewis Chessmen to Dolly the sheep, the first cloned mammal to be created from an adult cell. For many the greatest draw remains the museum itself: an outstanding example of Victorian architecture, its Grand Gallery rising the full height of the building.

Eat out in Leith

A ten-minute bus ride from the city centre, Leith’s historic port has served Edinburgh for centuries. The area around the Shore has undergone a major renaissance and is now the stomping ground of hipsters and creatives, boasting river walks along the Water of Leith and some of the best food and drink in the city. Pick from two Michelin starred restaurants – The Kitchin and Restaurant Martin Wishart – or for more relaxed eating, go for seafood and Scottish classics at the Shore , steak and cocktails at Chop House , brunch at Toast or Quay Commons , or craft ales at Nobles .

Royal Yacht Britannia

While you’re berthed in Leith, head for Britannia , rated Scotland’s best visitor attraction for ten years running. Launched in 1953, this glamorous vessel was the Royal Family’s floating residence for 44 years, travelling over one million miles to become the most famous ship in the world. Explore all five decks, the royal apartments (with the queen's surprisingly small single bed), crew’s quarters and engine room, finishing up in the Royal Deck Tea Room for scones.

The New Town

The joke is that only in 'auld' Edinburgh would a masterpiece of Georgian architecture constructed in the 18th century be referred to as ‘new’. The harmonious grid of neoclassical houses and communal private gardens that make up the city's New Town has to be the world’s most elegant response to overcrowding. Walk the cobbled streets and admire the pillars, high ceilings and decorative friezes of the residences. Then go for a craft ale or whisky at the traditional Victorian Cumberland Bar or Kay’s  and pretend you live there too.

Arthur’s Seat

Not many cities can boast a walk like this: an ancient volcano rising from the roughly hewn expanse of Holyrood Park with stupendous views across Edinburgh, Fife, and beyond. Described by Robert Louis Stevenson as ‘a hill for magnitude, a mountain in virtue of its bold design’, it’s all just a moment’s (steep) walk from the Royal Mile, yet even on a warm, sunny day you are guaranteed a spot of your own.

Calton Hill

Edinburgh is a city of grand outlooks, and one of the best perspectives can be gained from the top of Calton Hill . It’s a short, steep climb to the summit, rewarding you with views down the length of Princes St, the Castle and Arthur’s Seat. It’s also home to the brand new Collective art gallery , top-notch restaurant The Lookout and a hotchpotch of historic monuments, the most iconic of which is an incomplete acropolis started in 1822 by famed Edinburgh architect William Playfair. When funds ran out only the facade was completed and today its giant steps have become the neoclassical playground of children and tourists.

Travel three miles east from Edinburgh city centre and sink your feet in (cold) Scottish sand. 'Porty', as it’s known, is a perfectly Victorian affair, all faded glamour, wonky vibes, and one of the most genteel and bracing seaside proms in Britain. There are good cafes and pubs, a ‘little green van' serving Artisan Roast  coffee, a Victorian council-run baths, and the usual rundown amusement arcades. Best of all is the beach: an exceptionally clean two mile stretch of golden sand with seas perfect for swimming (if you can handle the chilly water) and some of the biggest and often angriest skies around.

Cycle along the Union Canal

One of the city’s best cycling routes is along a stretch of the fully restored Union Canal, which runs just over thirty miles from the capital to the Falkirk Wheel . Opened in 1822 to transport coal and reopened in 2002 after lying derelict for forty years, the eight-mile route from Edinburgh to Ratho follows a peaceful tree-lined section of the waterway, crossing aqueducts and winding up at – where else? – a pub, the Bridge Inn . You can hire bikes at Cycle Scotland in the Old Town.

First published in October 2016.

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30 Epic Things to Do in Edinburgh: Ultimate Guide by a Local

Shrouded in myths and legends and steeped in thousands of years of history, Edinburgh is a city like no other.

With an electric mix of architecture, winding cobbled streets, atmospheric alleyways, diverse festivals, plenty of green spaces and one of the best castles in Scotland – It’s hard to beat Edinburgh’s charm. Nearly every type of traveller will find something in this Scottish city to marvel at.

It’s been our home for almost a decade now, and we are so excited to share our favourite experiences and places to help you curate your journey.

Even if the sun doesn’t shine every day, Edinburgh is so incredibly stunning that “it breaks the heart again and again.”

It’s not surprising that in 1995, The Old and New Town of Edinburgh was recognised in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage sites.

From Harry Potter writer J. K. Rowling to Irvine Welsh, Robert Louis Stevenson to Sir Walter Scott – this Scottish capital city has inspired many creative geniuses.

So, whether you have only a day or a week, this guide will help you pull together a fantastic itinerary of Edinburgh. Also, there are some great day trip options within easy reach.

We have covered much of what this city has to offer to first-time visitors, as well as some ideas to explore a little further in pursuit of different experiences for returning visitors.

Best things to do in Edinburgh

1. soak up the panoramic views from calton hill.

Located only a few metres off the east end of the busy Princes Street, Calton Hill is a public park housing several Greek-style historical monuments and landmarks. It is one of the best places in Edinburgh to get an interrupted panoramic view of the city’s dramatic skyline.

At the top, you will find the upside-down telescope-shaped Nelson Monument. You can climb 143 steps to reach a viewing platform at the top to admire some of the best views of Edinburgh.

Another historic attraction on Calton Hill is the columned structure of the National Monument of Scotland. The construction of this 19th-century landmark remained unfinished due to lack of funds at that time and hence earned the nickname ‘Edinburgh’s Disgrace’.

We will highly recommend visiting Calton Hill at sunset. It takes only 5-10 minutes to reach the top through the steps on Regent Road. It is open to visitors every day, all year round.

Find Out the Best Viewpoints and Attractions on Calton Hill

2. Explore the Turbulent History of Edinburgh Castle

Sitting at the top of the historic Royal Mile, this magnificent fortress is a prominent part of the city’s iconic skyline. Steeped in over nine hundred years of history, its dramatic setting on an extinct volcanic plug provides a stunning view over the city.

The oldest surviving structure of Edinburgh Castle is the St. Margaret’s Chapel. It was built in the early 12th century by King David I. He named this small chapel after his beloved mother, Queen Margaret. However, historians believe that the origins of the fortress and the geological features of this area are much older.

Read More: 25 Most Beautiful Castles in Scotland You Must Visit

Edinburgh Castle has a chequered past. For many years, this was the home of Scottish kings and queens of Scotland, then it was turned into a mighty military fortress and later served as a prison. The control of the castle changed hands numerous times throughout history.

We would suggest spending at least two hours to explore all the hidden corners of the castle.

Visitors can see the famous Honours of Scotland, the Stone of Destiny, Mons Meg, the Royal Palace, the Great Hall, St Margaret’s Chapel, and the One O’Clock Gun. Follow our extensive guide to visiting Edinburgh Castle .

Tickets: Admission fees up to and including 31st March costs £18 online and £21 walk-up for adults.

From 1st April onwards, it costs £19.50 online and £22 walk-up for adults.

3. Step Back in Time in the Historic Royal Mile

A meander along the historic Royal Mile is an unmissable part of sightseeing in Edinburgh. The street is actually longer than a mile. The term ‘Royal Mile’ refers to a Scots mile – an old Scottish measuring unit which became obsolete in the 18th century.

The Royal Mile is one of the oldest thoroughfares in the city. It runs from the historic castle to the Holyrood Palace.

This iconic street is lined with various famous city landmarks, souvenir shops, museums, traditional pubs and restaurants. During Edinburgh Festival in August, this area comes alive with entertaining street performances.

Some of the historical highlights of Royal Mile are the Scottish Parliament Building, St Giles’ Cathedral, The Real Mary King’s Close, John Knox House and the Museum of Edinburgh .

Also, watch out for the narrow alleyways known as closes in Scotland. Advocates Close, Anchor Close and White Horse Close are particularly very photogenic.

Read More: Detailed Guide to Edinburgh Castle

4. Take in Breathtaking Views from Arthur’s Seat

Created by volcanic activity 335 million years ago, Arthur’s Seat is one of the most popular sites in Edinburgh to watch the sunset. Watching the Sun gradually disappear behind the horizon is an absolute treat.

Sitting at the edge of the historic Royal Mile, right next to the Holyrood Palace, the Holyrood Park spreads across a vast area of 650 acres. The highest point of the park is Arthur’s Seat at 251 metres.

Read More: Everything You Need to Know Before Visiting Arthur’s Seat

There are numerous walking trails all around this park. The hike to Arthur’s Seat is moderately easy and well worth the effort to see the breathtaking view over the sprawling cityscapes of Edinburgh and beyond.

It takes around 1 -1.5 hours to climb the summit, depending on your pace and fitness level. Alternatively, the jagged cliffs of Salisbury Crags are also an excellent vantage point to admire the epic skyline of Edinburgh.

If you are a keen walker, you might be interested in taking a peaceful stroll around Duddingston Loch, Dunsapie Loch and St Margaret’s Loch – home to many wildlife and birds.

5. Unleash Your Inner Harry Potter in Victoria Street and Grassmarket

Frequently referred to as the fictional Diagon Alley of Edinburgh, Victoria Street is one of the most photographed streets in the city. It is like a magic alleyway that will make you disappear from the historic Grassmarket and pop you out at the iconic Royal Mile. The Colourful stretch of old Flemish-styled buildings with arch-shaped facades is bound to cast a spell.

Grassmarket is one of the most vibrant and liveliest places in the Old Town. In past centuries, public hangings used to take place here.

Read More: A Short Guide to Victoria Street

Grassmarket has some of the oldest pubs in Edinburgh. One of them is the White Hart Inn, a 500-year-old pub where many famous people spent the night, including William Wordsworth and Robert Burns. It was also frequented by the notorious body snatchers of the 18th century, Burke and Hare.

Nowadays, Grassmarket is home to many events, including the Edinburgh Fringe Festival. Also, you can visit the farmer’s market on Saturdays.

6. Explore the Prettiest Corners of Dean Village

Nestled in a deep valley on the Water of Leith, Dean Village is only a few minutes away from the busy Edinburgh city centre. This picturesque neighbourhood stands out for its colourful half-timbered houses, medieval cobbled streets and idyllic riverside settings.

For over 800 years, Dean Village was a bustling site with various thriving industries and mills that used to harness power from the Water of Leith. Look out for the millstones and stone plaques decorated with baked bread and pies on the buildings. Dean Village used to supply milled flour and other grains to the residents of Edinburgh.

One of the most impressive houses here is Well Court. The red sandstone building with its landmark clock tower, conical turrets and crow-stepped gables oozes charm. It was built in the late 19th century for the nearby mill workers.

Follow the riverside path towards Stockbridge to visit St. Bernard’s Well, a hidden gem of Edinburgh. This elegant Roman temple-like structure houses a beautiful statue of Hygieia – the Greek goddess of health.

Read More: Everything You Need to Know Before Visiting Dean Village

7. Discover the Royal History of Palace of Holyroodhouse

The official residence of the British Monarch in Edinburgh, Holyrood Palace is one of the top tourist attractions in the city. This grand palace stands at the east end of the Royal Mile with Arthur’s Seat in the backdrop.

This 16th-century palace was closely associated with Mary, Queen of Scots and Bonnie Prince Charlie – two prominent royal figures in Scottish history. Visitors can explore the grand interiors and the collections of Flemish and French tapestries in the state apartments. Also, you can see the two thrones commissioned by King George V in 1911 in the Throne room.

Outside the palace, you would find the ruins of the historic Holyrood Abbey, which played a pivotal role in Edinburgh’s history. It was founded in 1128 by King David I.

Stroll around the beautiful garden and search for Queen Mary’s Bathhouse. Also, the adjacent Queen’s gallery is worth a visit. It displays paintings, furniture and photographs from the Royal collection.

Opening Hours : 1 November – 31 March 09.30 am – 16.30 pm.

1 April – 31 October 09.30 am – 18.00 pm.

Ticket Price : Adult advance £18, on the day £19.50.

8. Visit the National Museum of Scotland

Located opposite Greyfriars Kirkyard, the National Museum of Scotland is one of the best kid-friendly attractions in Edinburgh.

It features several exhibitions on natural and ancient history, ancient civilisations, archaeology and the history of Scotland. You can easily spend an hour or two discovering all the impressive collections this museum has to offer.

From ancient Egyptian artefacts to ceramics, cultural diversity to wildlife – you can find everything under one roof. Some highlights include Dolly the Sheep, the millennium clock and Lewis chessmen. Also, the Grand Gallery looks very photogenic.

They regularly host several events, including guided tours, workshops and temporary exhibitions.

Don’t forget to visit the rooftop of the museum. It is free and provides a stunning panoramic view over Edinburgh rooftops. If you can’t find it, ask any member of the staff for directions.

Opening Hours : Daily, 10 am – 5 pm.

9. Enjoy Romantic Strolls in Circus Lane and Stockbridge

Travellers visit Circus Lane to admire the vibrant floral displays, cute Georgian mews houses, colourful doors and the picturesque settings of the imposing St Stephen’s Church in the background. This cobbled street is a popular spot with local photographers and tourists.

Regarded as the prettiest street in Edinburgh, Circus Lane was originally a back alley built to cater for the horses, carriages and stable servants of wealthy residents of nearby Royal Circus in the 19th century.

Further Reading: Our Detailed Guide to Stockbridge

Circus Lane lies in the bustling neighbourhood of Stockbridge . From indulging in tasty street food in the farmer’s market to feeding the ducks at Inverleith Pond – there are loads of amazing things to do in Stockbridge.

Packed with trendy cocktail bars, cosy cafes, gastro eateries and several independent shops, Stockbridge is famous for its cool bohemian vibe. Also, it is a few minutes away from some of Edinburgh’s open green spaces and art museums.

Further Reading: Our Brief Guide to Circus Lane

10. Marvel at the Priceless Paintings of the Scottish National Gallery

Housed in an elegant 19th-century neoclassical building just off Princes Street, Scottish National Gallery is the leading art gallery in Scotland. It is undoubtedly one of the best free visitors attractions in Edinburgh. You can easily spend an hour or two discovering priceless art.

Established in 1859, it showcases an extensive collection of paintings and sculptures from the early renaissance to the end of the nineteenth century. Here you’ll find many famous masterpieces by legends like Raphael, Van Gogh, Degas, Monet, Velázquez and Vermeer.

Also, there are paintings by several Scottish artists. Look out for Edwin Landseer’s famous painting ‘The Monarch of the Glen’ and Henry Raeburn’s much-loved ‘The Skating Minister’.

The nearby Royal Scottish Academy is also part of the Scottish National Gallery and hosts many temporary exhibitions.

Opening Hours : Open daily, 10 am-5 pm.

11. Test Your Limits and Climb Scott Monument

Standing proudly in East Princes Street Garden, Scott Monument is dedicated to one of Scotland’s most legendary writers, Sir Walter Scott.

This Gothic structure at the heart of Edinburgh is the second-largest monument to a writer, anywhere in the world. A statue of him with his beloved dog, Maida, sits at the base of this memorial.

Constructed in mid 19th century, Scott Monument is a famous landmark in the city and an iconic part of the skyline. The exterior of the tower is adorned with several small statues of Scottish writers and various characters from Scott’s novels.

Do you know you can actually climb Scott Monument? There are viewing platforms at different levels offering gorgeous views of Edinburgh rooftops and the surrounding hills. Inside, you can visit the exhibitions showcasing the life and legacy of Sir Walter Scott. There are 287 steps to climb up to the top. The last few steps are quite steep and narrow.

12. Admire the Interiors of St Giles Cathedral

Founded in 1124, St Giles Cathedral is one of the prominent historic buildings in Edinburgh. It’s technically not a cathedral – rather a church that stands right on the iconic Royal Mile with distinct crown spires, popularly known as lantern towers. The architecture is impressive and worth a visit inside. 

Step inside this medieval building and learn the riveting tale of reformation when John Knox was a priest. They have guided rooftop tours available as well. The view of the Royal Mile and Edinburgh Old Town is stunning from the top.

The highlight of your visit would be the Thistle Chapel, situated at one corner of the church. It has ornated roofs and impressive wood carvings, including coats of arms of the sixteen nights, swords and thistles. Also, don’t miss the large stained glass window above the main entrance depicting the national poet of Scotland, Robert Burns.

13. Be Royalty for a Day at Royal Yacht Britannia

A floating palace moored in Leith, Royal Yacht Britannia is one of the top tourist attractions in Edinburgh. This Royal vessel has sailed one million nautical miles, hosted several State Receptions and dignitaries, and a few Royal honeymoons – she served the Royal Family for over forty years.

Built at the shipyard of John Brown & Co in Clydebank, Scotland, Royal Yacht Britannia was launched by Queen Elizabeth II on 16 April 1953. It sailed her first overseas maiden voyage to the Grand Harbour of Malta in 1954.

Explore the five decks of this ship, the State Apartments, State Drawing Room and the Sun Lounge, which was the Queen’s favourite room here. Also, you can uncover the stories of the crew members and learn about their life at sea. Britannia’s fascinating tale of its epic voyages around the globe to its retirement in Edinburgh will intrigue you.

If you fancy a bite with a stunning view, pop into their onboard restaurant, The Royal Deck Tearoom.

Price : Adult £18.50 and child £9.25.

14. Commune with Nature at the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh

Just a mile away from the city centre, The Royal Botanic Garden is the perfect place to relax and enjoy nature. Home to some of the extensive collections of living plants and more than 13,500 species, this sprawling 70 acres of green space is one of the best places to walk in Edinburgh.

Founded in 1670, this is one of the oldest gardens in the UK. Enjoy the vast collections of plants at the Chinese Hillside, climb to the highest point of the Garden Rock, follow the Beech Hedge and Herbaceous Border or meander around the large Redwood trees in the Woodland Garden.

Also, there are many vantage points offering fantastic views of Edinburgh’s skyline.

The lovely Victorian Temperate Palm House is a must-visit. Entry to the garden is free except for the glasshouses, which require tickets. During the winter months, Royal Botanics hosts Christmas at the Botanics – a popular family-friendly event.

Opening Hours : Daily, November to January 10 am-4 pm; February and October 10 am – 5 pm; March to September 10 am-6 pm.

15. Get Spooked in Greyfriars Kirkyard

If you are a Harry potter fan, Greyfriars Kirkyard should be a must-visit place in your Edinburgh itinerary.

As you stroll around the graveyard, you will spot the name of some of the beloved Harry Potter Characters. Watch out for the names of Tom Riddle, McGonagall, Mad-eye Moodie, and Potter.

The author J.K. Rowling penned some of the chapters of the Harry Potter series at the nearby Elephant House Cafe.

Another unmissable attraction is the adorable bronze statue of the famous Skye Terrier, Greyfriars Bobby. Tourists often rub its nose for luck.

The story goes that Bobby guarded the grave of his master in Greyfriars Kirkyard for 14 years after his death in 1872. Bobby became very famous in his lifetime, and people from all over Edinburgh used to come to watch and feed him.

Greyfriars Kirkyard is said to be one of the most haunted places in the city.

16. Sit Back with a Picnic at Princes Street Garden

This Scottish city doesn’t have any shortage of open green spaces. But Princes Street Garden at the heart of the city centre is a special one. It is a great place to hang out beneath the imposing Edinburgh Castle and enjoy a picnic.

In summer, you will find the garden teeming with locals and tourists sunbathing and chilling out. During Christmas, this ground transforms into a winter wonderland. In East Princes Street Garden stands Scott Monument, an iconic landmark of Edinburgh. Centrepiece of the westside garden is the beautifully ornate Ross Fountain.

You can also see many statues here. Look out for the Statue of Wojtek, a soldier bear who carried ammunition during World War II.

Also, visit the gingerbread-looking Gardeners Cottage, the former home of the head gardener. Today this dinky house is a popular photo spot in Edinburgh.

Another point of interest is the Floral Clock, the first floral clock in the world, dating back to the early 20th century.

17. Take Some Unforgettable Day Trips from Edinburgh

If you are visiting this city for a little longer, we highly recommend adding a few of the best day trips from Edinburgh to your visit.

Take a day trip to Glasgow , famous for various museums , Victorian and art nouveau architectures, colourful urban mural trail , legendary music scenes and nightlife.

A day tour to visit the incredibly beautiful Loch Lomond is a must. Take a boat cruise and explore Luss , one of the prettiest Scottish villages on the bank of Loch Lomond.

Catch a train from Edinburgh Waverley to the coastal town of St Andrews . Frequently referred to as the home of golf, the Old Course is one of the oldest golf courses in the world.

The picturesque fishing village, St Abbs in the Scottish Borders, has featured in the Avengers the Endgame movie and is worth a visit.

History lovers would love exploring the history of Stirling . The bustling city is full of many historical sights.

18. Enjoy a Taste of Haggis

No visit to Edinburgh is ever complete without tasting the national dish of Scotland, haggis. Love it or hate it, you have to try this famous dish at least once. You never know. Maybe you might turn into a fan of this savoury pudding.

Haggis is typically served with a generous portion of mashed tatties (potatoes) and neeps (turnips) and accompanied by a dram of whiskey.

It tastes like crumbly sausage, with an earthy texture and peppery flavour. It is made by combining sheep’s plucks – chopped liver, heart and lungs with oatmeal, onions, salt and spices and cooked in a sheep’s stomach.

Some of the best places to try haggis in Edinburgh are Arcade Bar Haggis and Whisky House  and Whiski Bar & Restaurant . Other delicious Scottish dishes you might be interested in trying are Cullen Skink, full Scottish breakfast, black pudding and Scotch Pie.

19. Watch a Live Performance at the Edinburgh Festival

August is the most happening month in the city’s calendar. Edinburgh comes alive with an array of festivals and events. More than 2500 performances take place every day in August at various venues around the city.

The Fringe Festival is the largest arts festival in the world. Hundreds of street performers entertain the audience in the Royal Mile, Grassmarket and Princes Street Garden.

Also, you can enjoy several standup comedy shows, ballets, operas, cabaret and musicals by renowned local and international artists. We would strongly recommend seeing the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo , an experience of a lifetime. The jaw-dropping performances of military pipes and drums come alongside traditional Scottish highland dance. Tattoo tickets sell out months in advance.

The month-long festivities end with the annual fireworks display. Thousands of locals and tourists gather at various vantage points to witness this breathtaking display.

20. Uncover Gourmet Delights in Leith

Away from the city centre, Leith is a vibrant and culturally diverse corner of Edinburgh. The Water of Leith flows through the heart of this neighbourhood. It has a rich maritime history and was once an important industrial hub of Scotland.

Today, this area is bustling with trendy shops, hip coffee shops and cosy pubs. From fine dining at Michelin-starred restaurants to delicious street foods, Leith is a must-visit destination for all foodies visiting Edinburgh.

You can find some of the city’s best restaurants in Leith. Some of our favourites are Fishers, Teuchters Landing , Martin Wishart and The Kitchin . Also, the full Scottish breakfast at Roseleaf Bar Cafe is a reason alone to visit Leith.

If you are here on Saturday, head to the farmer’s market for fresh local produces.

21. Explore Underground History at Real Mary King Close

Steeped in history, the Real Mary King Close lies underneath the busy street of the Royal Mile. This family-friendly attraction takes you back in time and tells the unheard stories of the Edinburgh Old Town.

An hour-long guided tour is the only way to explore this historic close and the surrounding maze of narrow alleyways and tenement houses from the 17th century.

It is named after Mary King, a local businesswoman who was a resident of this close. An expert guide will tell you about the life of some of the notable residents who once lived here. Also, you will learn intriguing tales about the deadly plague that ravaged Edinburgh and this close in past centuries.

Over the years, this site has been associated with various folklore, legends and paranormal activities. It was featured in several books and on television as one of the haunted places in the UK.

Price : Adult £21 and child £15.

22. Enjoy Yourself in Edinburgh Christmas Market and Hogmanay

We are perhaps a bit biased, but this city hosts one of the best Christmas markets in Europe. It shines bright with festive spirit at this magical time of the year.

You can find the beautiful Edinburgh Christmas Market in the Princes Street Gardens. There is an array of beautifully decorated chalets selling everything from hot mulled wine to Christmas decorations.

Also, there are plenty of fun rides and activities for all age groups. Younger visitors would love the Christmas Tree Maze, Santa’s Grotto and Nativity Carol Concert. You would love skating at the Alpine ice rink located on George Street.

Hogmanay is an integral part of the Edinburgh Christmas celebration and Scottish tradition. The three-day-long festivity starts with a torchlight procession.

On New Year’s Eve, there are spectacular fireworks displays from the castle . Locals and tourists enjoy themselves at the world-famous Hogmanay Street Party with live music and a delicious selection of street food and drink.

23. Release Your Inner Child at Camera Obscura & World of Illusions 

Camera Obscura and World of Illusions is located at the top of the historic Royal Mile, close to Edinburgh Castle esplanade. If you are not familiar with Camera Obscura, it’s a Latin term for dark chamber and is related to the earliest version of the modern-day camera.

Established in 1835, Camera Obscura is a six-floor building having plenty of entertaining and interactive optical illusions suitable for all age groups. The mindblowing puzzles, mirror maze, and vortex tunnel are thoroughly enjoyable.

The Camera Obscura is still in use and can project the buildings and streets of Edinburgh up and close for visitors. The rooftop terrace offers a superb panoramic view of the sprawling city and the Firth of Forth.

Price : Adult £20.95 and child £16.95.

24. Visit Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art

The Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art lies at the West End of Edinburgh. You can also walk here from Dean Village following the Water of Leith pathway. Sitting side by side, there are actually two separate buildings – Modern One and Two.

You will find an extensive collection of modern and contemporary artworks by reputed Scottish and international artists.

There are many interesting outdoor sculptures and art installations on the surrounding ground. The landform by Charles Jencks in front of Modern One looks stunning.

Modern One houses masterpieces by famous artists like Matisse and Picasso. Modern Two hosts various temporary exhibitions all year round. As you enter the building, you will notice a giant 7.3 metre-tall sculpture, Vulcan. Their permanent display includes the recreation of Edinburgh-born artist Eduardo Paolozzi’s studio.

Opening Hours : Open daily, 10 am – 5 pm.

25. Take a Tour of the Scotch Whisky Experience

If you are a whisky enthusiast, a visit to the Scotch Whisky Experience at the top of the Royal Mile will surely interest you. After all, whisky is the national drink of Scotland.

Established in 1988 on the former premise of a school, this visitor attraction in Edinburgh Old Town offers various guided tours to showcase Scotland’s rich history of the whisky industry. It houses the world’s largest collection of whisky bottles. They also have a restaurant and whisky bar on site.

They offer different types of tours. Their expert guide will demonstrate the methods and skills of making scotch whisky. The tour concludes with a wee tasting. Also, you can bring a small bottle back home with you. Audio guides are available in 20 languages. The tour price starts from £21 per adult.

Opening Hours : 10 am – 5 pm.

26. Explore the Scottish National Portrait Gallery

Situated on Queens Street, the Scottish National Portrait Gallery has a superb selection of photographs, sculptures and portraits of some of the most famous Scottish personalities from past and present.

Also, you would be amazed by the glittering friezes and murals of this neo-gothic architectural gem of Edinburgh. The beautifully painted mural at the main entrance hall will surely impress you.

From Mary Queen of Scots and Bonnie Prince Charlie to Tilda Swinton and Flora Macdonald – You can see all their beautiful portraits here.

This gorgeous red sandstone building was donated in the 19th century by John Ritchie Findlay – the proprietor of The Scotsman newspaper.

It is an amazing free attraction in Edinburgh to spend a rainy day.

Opening Hours : Open daily, 10 am to 5 pm.

27. Discover Writers Museum & Makar’s Court

Located at Lady Stairs close, just a few steps off the Royal Mile, the Writers Museum houses a magnificent collection and memorabilia of three legends of Scottish literature – Robert Burns, Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson.

This picturesque house was built in 1622 by Sir William Gray of Pittendrum, an Edinburgh-based wealthy businessman. Today, the fairy-tale-looking turret draws tourists to this humble museum.

Highlights of your visit would be the first edition of Scott’s Waverley, Burn’s writing desk and a rare cast of his skull, and Robert Louis Stevenson’s personal items. Also, you would get to know a lot about their literary life.

Just outside the Writers Museum lies Makar’s Court, an open space where famous quotes of Scottish writers are etched on flagstones – possibly the most fitting feature to honour Edinburgh, the world’s first UNESCO City of Literature .

Opening Hours : Monday to Saturday, 10 am – 5 pm.

28. Admire the Grand Architecture of the Forth Bridge

An iconic landmark of Scotland, Forth Rail Bridge is an engineering marvel over the Firth of Forth – the estuary of the River Forth.

Located about 10 miles west of Edinburgh City Centre, this bridge connects two villages of Scotland – North and South Queensferry.When this rail bridge was completed in 1890, it was the longest single cantilever bridge in the world. It has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2015.

There are several sightseeing tour companies that offer guided trips to the Forth Bridges. Alternatively, hop on board Lothian Bus service 43 from Princes Street to South Queensferry. Also, it takes only 15 minutes from Edinburgh Waverley to Dalmeny by train.

If you have time, we recommend you take a boat trip from South Queensferry to the picturesque island of Inchcolm.

29. Enjoy Strolls on the Grounds of Lauriston Castle

Away from the hubbub of the busy city centre, Lauriston Castle is a hidden gem of Edinburgh. The history of this castle dates back to the middle ages. Completely Destroyed during the Earl of Hertford’s raid around 1544, Lauriston Castle was rebuilt in 1590.

Once there, explore the grand interior of this Edwardian tower house. If you hear some eerie footsteps inside, don’t worry. It must be the resident ghost, who hasn’t reportedly harmed anyone yet.

This historic house has lovely grounds with a nice little pond, an award-winning modern Japanese garden, and an Italian garden. Also, you would admire the gorgeous view across Edinburgh and Fife coastline. The woodland around the castle is very scenic, especially in spring, with bluebells lying all around.

Opening Hours : 1 April – 30 September, 8 am – 7.30 pm and 1 October – 31 March, 8 am – 4.30 pm.

Price : £8.00 for adults.

30. Build Sandcastles at Portobello Beach

Just a few miles from Edinburgh City Centre, Portobello is a seaside suburb with a sprawling sand beach stretching over two miles. In summer, it’s a popular spot with sunbathers, swimmers, and volleyballers.

Take a stroll along the charming promenade. It is lined with busy pubs and cafes, chippies, arcades and ice cream shops. Plus, this award-winning beach hosts events like the Big Beach Bush and an annual music and sandcastle competition event. Catch the local bus service 15 or 26 from Princes Street to get here.

So, in short, Portobello would be a perfect spot for a breezy beach day in summer.

How Many Days to Spend in Edinburgh

You will need to spend at least two days visiting some of the main attractions in the city. Check out our detailed 2-day itinerary of Edinburgh . But if you want to explore the city’s nooks and crannies more closely, you can easily spend a week here. You can also add some great day trip destinations to your itinerary. 

But if you are really short on time, it’s possible to see some of the highlights in a day.

Best Time to Visit Edinburgh

Although this capital city is a delight to explore all year round, June to August is the perfect time to explore Edinburgh.

The weather remains relatively dry, pleasant and warm, with longer daylights. Usually, July is the hottest month here. Also, it is an ideal time to enjoy various festivals. But this is also the peak tourist season. So, expect long queues at the attractions.

Scottish weather is famous for being unpredictable. You may experience all four seasons in one day. So, carry an umbrella or a rain jacket when you go out.

Edinburgh is also a great destination for a short winter city break in the UK. It hosts a lovely Christmas market.

Map of the Tourist Attractions

Here is a map of all the Edinburgh tourist attractions mentioned in this article. We have also marked some of the best cafes, restaurants, and pubs for you. Save this Google Map on your phone to use it later. Also, you can use it offline.

How to Get Around Edinburgh

Most of the attractions mentioned in this article are spread across the historic Old and New Town. The area is not that huge. So, the cobbled streets of Edinburgh are best explored on foot.

This city has an excellent public transport system. If you are venturing out of the city centre, catch a local Lothian Bus service.

Buses run frequently day and night. It costs £1.80 for a single journey and £4.50 for a day ticket. Also, the tram runs regularly from Edinburgh Airport to St Andrew’s Square.

We hope this article on the best things to do in the city of Edinburgh was helpful to plan your trip. Read our other travel guides of Scotland to fuel your travel inspirations further.

4 thoughts on “30 Epic Things to Do in Edinburgh: Ultimate Guide by a Local”

Excellent. This should be used as a leaflet of Edinburgh for tourist and sightseeing. Informative and interesting, make you want to get up and go do.

Excellent piece! We will definitely use this!

Thanks for the wonderful info. Is there a working link to the ‘detailed 2-day itinerary of Edinburgh” ? Would love to see it.

Love this, thank you!

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Edinburgh Travel Guide (including essential tips, itinerary & map)

By: Author Tracy Collins

Posted on Last updated: November 25, 2023

Our  Edinburgh Travel Guide  includes recommended places to visit and things to do, accommodation options, tips and more for the beautiful Scottish capital. Everything you need to plan your visit and essential reading for any visitor to Edinburgh!

Plan your visit to Edinburgh

The Scottish capital of Edinburgh is one of the most visited and beautiful cities to visit in the United Kingdom (in fact it is the second most visited city in the UK after London).

The winding cobblestone streets of its Old Town offer quaint medieval charm which is contrasted by the New Town, the very epitome of Georgian style. There is culture and history around every corner, and the list of Edinburgh attractions is a long one.

A visit to Edinburgh is one of the highlights of any UK itinerary and features in our recommended top 19 attractions, sights and landmarks to see in Scotland.

First-time visitor? Read our practical tips and make the most of your Edinburgh adventure

What you will find in this complete Edinburgh Travel Guide

Map of Edinburgh

When is the best time of year to visit edinburgh, how many days do you need in edinburgh, public transport options, alternative transport options (including tours), 🚆 by train from london, 🚗 by car (road trip option), ✈️ fly to edinburgh airport, attractions and things to do in edinburgh (and scotland), uktp podcasts about visiting edinburgh, quick picks, luxury/boutique hotels, mid-range hotels (including well-known chains), guest houses, edinburgh travel guide -tickets, tours & attractions, best day trips from edinburgh, best multi-day tours from edinburgh, best pubs, cafes and restaurants in edinburgh, books to read before visiting edinburgh, enjoy your visit to edinburgh.

Edinburgh travel guide – Visiting Edinburgh FAQ’s

Edinburgh is a popular destination to visit throughout the year. In fact, there are some months of the year it is best to avoid Edinburgh unless you are specifically visiting to attend an event such as

• Hogmanay (December 30/31)
• The Edinburgh Festival (August)
• The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo (August)

Weather-wise the summer months are the perfect time to visit Edinburgh. The days are long and expect sunny, warm and drier weather.

Winter can be brutal in Scotland. Expect rain, freezing fog and even snow especially in January or February. Read more about visiting the UK in winter .

Make sure to pack for the weather – layers are always recommended (and waterproofs too) whatever time of year you plan to visit.

Read more about the best time to visit the UK in my detailed guide.

We recommend spending at least 2 days in Edinburgh. This will give you enough time to see the main sights, landmarks and attractions. Edinburgh is also the perfect base for exploring Scotland with many organised tours departing from the city.

There are many attractions to visit on days trips from Edinburgh (by train, car or tour) such as the Kelpies, Stirling, and St Andrews. Although it is possible to take a day trip tour to the Scottish Highlands we recommend planning your own multi-day itinerary or joining an organised multi-day tour.

Include Edinburgh in your train trip itinerary of the UK . It can be easily reached by train from London in just a few hours.

Catching the Caledonian Sleeper from London to Edinburgh (or Fort William or Inverness ) is a fantastic experience and if you enjoy train travel we recommend including it in your travel plans.

What is the best way to explore Edinburgh?

Many of the sights are close to each other (Edinburgh Castle, Royal Mile, Holyrood House, the monument to Sir Walter Scott, Princes Street ) and are within walkable distance of one another.

The city has a modern public transport network which includes buses, trams and trains.

There is a city-wide network of buses operating 24 hours a day. The Airlink bus runs between the airport and Waverley Station (Edinburgh’s train station) 24 hours a day. The journey takes around 25 minutes and leaves every 10 mins (approx) An adult single costs £4.50 and an open return £7.50.

The tram is a great way of travelling from one end of the city to the other. With regular stops along Princes Street jumping on and off the tram is one way to get around. The tram runs 14 km from Edinburgh Airport to York Place in the east end of the city centre. 

Buy tickets from the ticket vending machines at each tram stop. The machines accept credit and debit cards including cash (but give no change)

If you are travelling into  Edinburgh from the airport  via the tram network the cost is £6.50 for an adult and £3.30 for a child (single). Return tickets are £9.00 for adults and £4.80 for children.

Airport transfers are also included in the Edinburgh Pass. It is also possible to book an  Airlink Bus Transfer  or  private car transfer  to and from the airport into Edinburgh.

• Trains  

If you want to travel further afield for the day there are regular services from Edinburgh Waverley Train Station to Glasgow, Falkirk ( for the Kelpies and the Falkirk Wheel) and Stirling. 

There are a number of hop-on and hop-off bus services operating in the city. If you purchase an  Edinburgh Pass  (these can be purchased for one, two or three days in Edinburgh) the Hop-on Hop-off Bright Bus Tour is included in the cost as well as a City Bus Tour.

Other bus tours include 

• City Sightseeing Edinburgh: 24-Hour Hop-on Hop-off Bus Tour

Travel on an open-top, double-decker bus with panoramic views of the city.

• Hop-On Hop-Off Bus Pass with 3 City Tours

Tour Edinburgh on 3 different hop-on and hop-off bus routes with 24 or 48 hours unlimited travel. Enjoy live guidance in English during the City Sightseeing Tour and the Majestic Tours.

• Royal Attractions with Hop-On Hop-Off Bus Tours

See all of Edinburgh’s attractions from the comfort of a hop-on-hop-off sightseeing bus which includes free entry to 3 royal attractions with a 48-hour Royal Edinburgh Ticket.

Visit the Castle, climb aboard the Royal Yacht Britannia, and tour Holyroodhouse.

What is the best way to travel to Edinburgh from London?

For timetables and tickets, we recommend the trainline. Take the train to Edinburgh for a short break or incorporate it into your UK train travel itinerary.

Tip – If this is your first time catching a train in the UK read our complete guide to UK train travel which includes all the information you need to know to make travelling around the UK by rail a relaxing and stress-free experience.

🔀 Distance from London (via transport): 600 km (400 miles)

🕐 Time taken by train: 5 hours

📍 Leave from London Euston or London King’s Cross

If you are taking a road trip around the UK and plan to include Edinburgh in your itinerary make sure you book a hotel/ accommodation with free parking.

Many of the hotels and guest houses don’t offer parking at all so do check before you book. 

If you plan to start your road trip in Edinburgh I would see all the main city sights before picking up your car and continuing your trip.

I recommend checking car hire options through Discover Cars  who compare the prices from a number of companies to secure the best deal for you.

If you want to fly directly to Edinburgh you will find options from many destinations across the world. We recommend Skyscanner for flights,

If there is no direct flight available take a connecting flight from London. Edinburgh airport is close to the city and there are many ways to transfer to your accommodation including bus, taxi and tram.

Click here for transfers from Edinburgh airport

Read more – How to get from London to Edinburgh

BEST THINGS TO DO AND SEE IN EDINBURGH

21 BEST DAY TRIPS FROM EDINBURGH

SCOTTISH ISLANDS TRAVEL GUIDE

ISLE OF SKYE TRAVEL GUIDE

INVERNESS TRAVEL GUIDE

19 PLACES TO VISIT IN SCOTLAND

NORTHUMBERLAND TRAVEL GUIDE

Accommodation in Edinburgh

Best hotels in edinburgh for sightseeing.

There are lots of accommodation options in Edinburgh to suit every budget. These are my choices of some of the best hotels in the city based on location and customer reviews.

The Balmoral

⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

5* luxury with a Michelin starred restaurant

Holiday Inn Express City Centre

⭐️⭐️⭐️

3* hotel located in the New Town

Elder York Guest House

Excellent location & good breakfast included.

• The Balmoral  – 5* luxury, a Michelin starred restaurant, amazing afternoon teas, a spa and located right next to Waverley train station. £35 per day for parking.
• The Witchery by the Castle  – a luxury boutique hotel with 9 themed suites. Boasting 4 poster canopied beds, spacious bathrooms and beautifully furnished and decorated the Witchery is the perfect choice for a special occasion. No parking available.
• Waldorf Astoria The Caledonian  – Another beautiful 5* luxury hotel offering rooms with some lovely views. Facilities include a spa and fitness centre, indoor pool, restaurant and bar. £25 per day for parking.
• Holiday Inn Express City Centre  – 3* hotel located in the New Town. A good breakfast, free WiFi, clean rooms and and comfy beds make this a great choice. With family rooms available it is a popular option for those traveling with children. No parking available.
• Radisson Blu Hotel Edinburgh City Centre   – A very good hotel at a good price the Radisson Blu is centrally located. Facilities include a spa and gym. Parking is £12.50 per day. 
• Motel One Edinburgh Royal  – Centrally located and affordable yet stylish hotel with clean and comfortable rooms. Adults only. No parking.
• Elder York Guest House  – perfectly located a few minutes walk to Princes Street this is where we stay when we visit the city. Breakfast is good and the rooms comfortable. Note there is no lift so you have to climb a few sets of stairs to get to the guest house. No parking.

➡️ WHERE TO STAY IN EDINBURGH – LOCATION AND ACCOMMODATION GUIDE

Find more special stays in my Accommodation Guide for Scotland.

This is our selection of the best tours and attractions available in Edinburgh (if you fancy a ghost tour check out our guide to 9 of the spookiest, scariest and best ghost tours of Edinburgh !)

• Harry Potter Magical Guided Walking Tour – Take a magical 2-hour walking tour of Edinburgh and discover the city where the world of Harry Potter was conceived.
• Underground Vaults Tour – Visit the vaults beneath Old Town which date back to the early 18th century
• Holyrood Distillery Gin and Whisky Guided Tour – Enjoy a guided flavour-forward experience, learn how gin and whisky are made, and explore the craft distilling methods at Holyrood Distillery.
• Firth of Forth: 90-Minute Three Bridges Cruise – A 90-minute sightseeing cruise with views of the “three bridges”, including the UNESCO World Heritage Forth Bridge, Inchcolm Island and medieval abbey. Enjoy incredible views of the Edinburgh skyline during your cruise.
• History of Whisky with Tasting and Storytelling – Visit an outstanding whisky venue where you will be served four classic single malt scotch whiskys and immerse yourself in the great cultural importance of whisky and storytelling in Scotland.

Click here for great tickets, tours and attractions for Edinburgh

Best day & multi-day trips from Edinburgh

I have handpicked the best tours available from Edinburgh through Get Your Guide (we book most of our day tours and organised activities through Get Your Guide due to their great customer service and cancellation policy) and Viator (another tour company we have used during our travels).

You will find even more options to choose from in our guide to the best day trips and multi-day tours from Edinburgh here.

• Loch Ness, Glencoe, & the Highlands Day Tour – See the best of Scotland, all in one day with this 12 hour day tour.
• Hogwarts Express and Scottish Highlands Tour – Ride the world-famous Jacobite Steam Train and explore Glen Coe
• Loch Lomond, Trossachs & Stirling Castle Tour – Experience the natural beauty of Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park
• 3-Day Isle of Skye, Highlands & Loch Ness – Stay overnight in the island village of Portree, visit haunting Glencoe & explore Eilean Donan Castle.
• Outlander Experience 2-Day Tour – Follow in the footsteps of Claire and Jamie during this Outlander themed 2-day tour.
• Iona, Mull, and Isle of Skye – Explore the famous Scottish Highlands and discover the unspoiled beauty of its westerly islands, including Mull, Iona, Staffa, and the famous Isle of Skye.

Are you an Outlander fan? Read our guide to the best Outlander tours available in 2022 and beyond

There are so many fantastic places to eat in Edinburgh you are spoilt for choice. These are our top picks:

• Makar’s Gourmet Mash Bar – for haggis, neeps & tatties
• Biddy Mulligans (pub)
• Maggie Dicksons (pub)
• The World’s End (pub)
• Toast (brunch and lunch)
• The Dome – dine in stunning surroundings (bookings essential)

For more Scottish literary inspiration check out my selection of 25 of the best books to read before you visit Scotland.

This guide will have provided inspiration plus practical information to help plan your visit to Edinburgh. You will find more inspiration and ideas to help plan your travels around Scotland in these travel guides:

• Best castle hotels in Scotland
• Northumberland Travel Guide (including tips, itinerary + map)
• 10 virtual tours of famous landmarks in the UK

Find more inspiration for your travels in my Scotland Travel Guide which includes information about what to see, where to stay, how to get around, travel tips, recommended reading and more to make the most of your trip.

Top 14 Things to Do in Edinburgh

There are plenty of exciting things to do in Edinburgh, from stunning architecture and endless winding streets to an awe-inspiring castle perched on a dormant volcano. By day you can admire artworks in galleries and treasured wonders in museums, and by night you can enjoy tours, musical and theatre performances, or find your favourite dram in a charming whisky pub.

Explore Edinburgh Castle Edinburgh

Edinburgh Castle and city

Perched atop Castle Rock overlooking the city, this should be a must-see on your list of places to visit in Edinburgh. Edinburgh Castle houses important Scottish artefacts, such as the Honours of Scotland -  which are the oldest crown jewels in the UK - and The Stone of Destiny, an ancient symbol of the Scottish monarchy. Explore the vast castle grounds, take a guided tour with a castle steward, or listen to the audio guide, which is available in eight languages.

Top tip: Tickets often sell out quickly, especially during the summer months. Make sure to book early to avoid disappointment! Listen out for the firing of the One O'Clock Gun from the castle grounds, which can be heard daily (except on Sundays). Ships in the Firth of Forth once set their maritime clocks according to the sound of the shot.

• On Public Transport Route
• Accessible Parking Or Drop-off Point
• Level Access
• Cafe or Restaurant

Discover the treasures of the National Museum of Scotland Edinburgh

The National Museum of Scotland

© VisitScotland / Peter Dibdin

Scotland is known for having unpredictable weather, and if you happen to get caught in the rain you might be wondering what to do in Edinburgh. Visit the National Museum of Scotland, one of the best indoor attractions in Edinburgh - and entry is free! With over 20,000 unique artefacts to see, there's something for everyone and fun for all the family. Spend the day learning about the catacombs of Egypt, the wonders of nature and even modern-day technology.

Top tip: If the sun makes an appearance, head up to the rooftop terrace to enjoy amazing views of Edinburgh.

• Hearing Loop
• Accessible toilets

Climb Arthur's Seat and stroll through Holyrood Park Edinburgh

Friends on Salisbury Crags in Edinburgh

© VisitScotland / Kenny Lam

Perhaps one of the most iconic places to go in Edinburgh is Arthur's Seat, located within Holyrood Park. This ancient volcano sits 251m above sea level and offers 360-degree views of Edinburgh and the Lothians. You can see the medieval remains of St Anthony's Chapel or feed the ducks and swans on Duddingston Loch. There's an array of paths and trails to follow, suitable for all, including the trail to St Margaret's Loch which is both wheelchair and buggy accessible.

Top tip: Climbing up to the top of this dormant volcano is hungry work! Why not pack a picnic and enjoy it from the best 'seat' in Edinburgh?

Be amazed at Camera Obscura and World of Illusions Edinburgh

Camera Obscura and World of Illusions

This top attraction in Edinburgh is fun for all the family - we dare you not to be amazed, whatever your age. There are five floors of interactive curiosities and illusions to explore, so lose yourself in the puzzling mirror maze or try to keep your balance in the exhilarating Vortex Tunnel.

Top tip: Be sure to get an allocated show time so you don't miss out on seeing the 169-year-old Camera Obscura in action. This Victorian spectacle is a truly unique way to see Edinburgh and takes sightseeing to the next level. 

• Pets Welcome

Ascend Calton Hill to the National Monument Edinburgh

The Edinburgh skyline viewed from Calton Hill

For outstanding views, get up early and climb to the top of Calton Hill to enjoy the sunrise over the city. The UNESCO World Heritage Site is home to a collection of historic monuments, most notably the National Monument, which was inspired by the Parthenon in Athens.

Top tip: Thinking of staying in Scotland this New Year's Eve? One of the best things to do in Edinburgh at night on Hogmanay is to climb Calton Hill and enjoy the annual firework display above the castle. Many festivals in Edinburgh, such as the Celtic Beltane Fire Festival, are also celebrated here.

Explore the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art Edinburgh

The Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art

A trip to the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art won't leave you disappointed - whether you're an art lover or not. Comprising two impressive buildings, this top Edinburgh attraction contains masterpieces from the 1900s to present day. Admire art by Matisse, Picasso and Emin, as well as Scottish contemporaries. The landscaped grounds of the galleries feature sculptures by Tony Cragg and Barbara Hepworth, amongst others.

Top tip: After enjoying coffee and a slice of cake in the gallery's cafe, don't miss the recreation of Scottish artist Eduardo Paolozzi's original studio in Modern Two.

Taste the finest drams at Johnnie Walker Princes Street Edinburgh

Johnnie Walker Princes Street in Edinburgh

© VisitScotland / Luigi Di Pasquale

The flagship Johnnie Walker Princes Street is spread across eight floors and is the capital's newest hotspot, perfect for whisky lovers and novices alike. Complete with dining experiences, bars and a whisky retail area, book your personalised whisky experience where you can explore the flavours of Scotland. 

Top tip: Enjoy world-class cocktails and incredible views of the Edinburgh skyline at the 1820 rooftop bar.

Stroll through Lauriston Castle and Gardens Edinburgh & The Lothians

Lauriston Castle and Gardens

There are plenty of attractions around Edinburgh away from the hustle and bustle of the city centre. Lauriston Castle and Gardens is the perfect place to go for anyone visiting Edinburgh looking for a piece of Scottish history, as well as peace and quiet. Step back in time as you explore the castle's impressive Edwardian interiors, and don't miss the daily guided tour to learn more about its fascinating history.

Top tip: Enjoy the woodland walk that surrounds the castle, then retreat to the tranquil Japanese Garden, a true hidden gem in Edinburgh.

Brave the Edinburgh Dungeon Edinburgh - City Centre

Edinburgh Dungeon 2021

© Edinburgh Dungeon 2021

Looking for things to do in Edinburgh that are a little unusual? For a thrilling alternative adventure, visit The Edinburgh Dungeons, where you'll learn about the city's gruesome history. Walk the plague-ridden streets of 1645, evade the murderous duo Burke and Hare, and even face trial - good luck! With live actors, underground rides and special effects, you're guaranteed a 'spooktacular' time.

Top tip: The Edinburgh Dungeon often holds Dungeon Late events for adults, so if you're looking for things to do in Edinburgh at night, this could be it.

Launch into space at Dynamic Earth Edinburgh

Dynamic Earth

Looking for somewhere fun to take the kids that's also educational? Dynamic Earth is a fantastic attraction for the whole family to enjoy. The interactive adventure takes brave young explorers on a journey through space and time to learn how the forces of nature shaped Earth over millions of years. 

Top tip: Dynamic Earth is part of the National STEM Engagement Campaign and has a whole host of events for kids to enjoy; check out their website to find out what's on in Edinburgh.

See a show at the Festival Theatre Edinburgh

Edinburgh's Festival Theatre

Edinburgh's Festival Theatre is one of the largest stages in the UK, hosting show-stopping opera, ballet and musical events all year round. Many famous performers have graced its stage, including Charlie Chaplin, Laurel & Hardy and David Bowie.

Top tip: Legend has it that the Festival Theatre is haunted by famous illusionist 'The Great Lafayette'. Lafayette lost his life in a fire at the theatre in 1911 and is said to roam the stage to this day.

Enjoy a wee dram at the Scotch Whisky Experience Edinburgh - City Centre

The stunning Diageo Claive Vidiz Whisky Collection

No trip to the Royal Mile is complete without a visit to the Scotch Whisky Experience for a dram of fine Scottish whisky. The attraction offers a range of tour experiences that will suit first timers and whisky lovers alike. Take a tour of the virtual distillery and learn about the distilling process, then discover the art of whisky blending in a guided sensory presentation.

Top tip: After you become somewhat of a whisky connoisseur, why not continue into the attraction's Amber Restaurant, where you can enjoy modern Scottish cuisine with another dram.

Go sightseeing from the Scott Monument Edinburgh

The Scott Monument in Princes Street Gardens

The Scott Monument was built in 1832 to commemorate the death of one of Scotland's best loved writers, Sir Walter Scott, and is decorated with carvings of characters from his novels. The Gothic spire stands at the eastern end of Princes Street Gardens and is the largest memorial to a writer in the world, standing at just over 200 feet high. Climb the 287 steps to the top for beautiful views of the city and visit the Museum Room inside the monument, which holds an exhibition on Scott's life and work.

Top tip: Not a fan of heights? Not to worry, you can get a great view of the monument with your feet firmly on the ground from the bottom of the Playfair Steps on The Mound. At the base of the monument, you'll also find a statue of Scott himself with his beloved dog.

Indulge in sweet treats at The Chocolatarium Edinburgh

Chocolatarium visitors with their finished chocolate bars

Looking to add a bit more sweetness to your trip? Just off the Royal Mile you’ll find The Edinburgh Chocolatarium, a place dedicated to all things chocolate. Enjoy a 90-minute guided tour of the chocolate-making process before making your very own chocolate bar where you’ll have lots of toppings to choose from. To finish off, head to the chocolate Tasting Room where you’ll taste a variety of Scottish and international chocolates. Now that sounds like chocolate heaven!

Top tip: Make sure to stock up on your favourite chocolate bars at the gift shop. You'll find all the classics including some interesting flavours such as gin and tonic dark chocolate and haggis.

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Edinburgh   Travel Guide

Why Go To Edinburgh

Burrowed beside long-dormant volcanoes and reigning over green moorlands, Edinburgh (or Ed-n-bruh in Scots speech) is known for more than its staggering landscape. The Athens of the North, as Edinburgh is sometimes nicknamed, also claims a cast of near-mythic characters: Rebel leader Sir William Wallace (aka Braveheart); the tragic Mary, Queen of Scots; the Enlightenment thinkers David Hume and Adam Smith; "James Bond" actor Sean Connery; and prolific wordsmiths Sir Arthur Conan Doyle and J.K. Rowling – are all woven into this very old, yet very relevant city.

But if your impression is confined to bagpipes, tartans, crests and kilts, you'd be wrong. The second most-visited city in the United Kingdom (after London ), Edinburgh offers an abundance of things to do . History buffs will enjoy Edinburgh Castle , Holyroodhouse Palace and other attractions found along the Royal Mile . Those in search of an authentic live-as-the-locals experience will find it in the outer-lying neighborhood pubs, shops and parks. Shoppers will find retail bliss in New Town; art aficionados will enjoy the free Scottish National Gallery ; and theater hounds will meet their match at August's Edinburgh Festival.

Find Flight and Hotel Deals

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• # 5 in Best Destination Wedding Spots in Europe
• # 6 in Best Places to Visit in June 2024
• # 11 in Best Family Vacations in Europe

See All 4 Rankings

Best of Edinburgh

Best hotels in edinburgh.

• # 1 in The Balmoral Hotel, a Rocco Forte Hotel
• # 2 in Fingal - A Luxury Floating Hotel
• # 3 in Waldorf Astoria Edinburgh - The Caledonian

Best Things to Do in Edinburgh

• # 1 in Edinburgh Castle
• # 2 in Holyrood Park and Arthur's Seat
• # 3 in Royal Yacht Britannia

Popular Tours

Loch Ness, Scottish Highlands, Glencoe and Pitlochry Tour

(4349 reviews)

from $ 77.58

Loch Ness and Highlands Day Tour Including Cruise from Edinburgh

(5177 reviews)

from $ 122.39

Edinburgh Castle Guided Walking Tour in English

(2705 reviews)

from $ 42.61

Edinburgh Travel Tips

Best months to visit.

The best time to visit Edinburgh is June through August when the average high temperatures rise to a balmy 65 degrees Fahrenheit. But this is also the city's busiest time for tourism, especially in August when festivals fill up the calendar. To avoid spending a small fortune, you'll have to bundle up: winter (November to March) offers the best low-season deals, except during the city's New Year's celebration, Hogmanay. Spring and early fall are the sweet spots – relatively mild weather and thin crowds pair with the chance to find hotel and airfare deals. 

Weather in Edinburgh

Data sourced from the National Climatic Data Center

What You Need to Know

Brrr, it's cold out there Edinburgh is located in the Northern Hemisphere, so expect chills year-round. Bring a sweater or two, even in the summer.

Edinburgh vs. Glasgow The two Scottish cities are pretty competitive, so it's not a good idea to trash talk one or the other in a mixed crowd.

Know the ingredients Scottish specialties, such as haggis and black pudding, have some ingredients American palates might not be accustomed to. A food tour is a great way to sample Scottish favorites with the guidance of a local.

How to Save Money in Edinburgh

Walk Most of Edinburgh's biggest attractions are within a 2-mile radius of one another, so hopping on a bus or tram is unnecessary most of the time.

Visit in the winter An influx of visitors come to Edinburgh during the summer for festival season. The colder months see fewer visitors and lower room rates.

Veer off the beaten track Stray from the touristy Royal Mile and Princes Street and you'll likely find better shopping and dining options for a fraction of the price.

Culture & Customs

Although the language is the same, Scots inflect their speech with a Sean Connery-esque brogue, which might be difficult to understand. You shouldn't be afraid to ask Scottish people to repeat themselves; no one will be offended. But be advised that residents are extremely proud of their city; don't exalt Glasgow at the expense of Edinburgh unless you're willing to argue it out. For the most part, visitors will probably be surprised by the warmth and friendliness of the Scots.

The official currency is the pound sterling. Since the pound to U.S. dollar exchange rate fluctuates, be sure to  check what the current exchange rate is  before you go. Major credit cards are accepted at most restaurants and shops. Much like the rest of the U.K. and Europe, tipping is not required. However, if you feel so inclined and your service was exceptional, a 10% tip will be more than enough.

What to Eat

Scotland is known for haggis, which – if you really want to know – is sheep's heart, liver and lungs minced together with onions, oatmeal and some seasoning. It's usually served with neeps and tatties , or mashed turnips and potatoes. But note that Edinburgh also offers an array of international cuisine as well, from Thai to Italian. Edinburgh's pubs offer traditionally British cuisine and other comfort food items, including fish and chips and hamburgers, which are also reasonably priced. But if you're willing to take on the haggis challenge, pop on over to Greyfriars Bobby's Bar , the pub located in front of the Greyfriars Bobby memorial, which honors the dog who guarded his deceased master's grave for more than a decade, or Arcade Haggis & Whisky House .

Not keen on trying haggis? Not to worry, Scotland has plenty of other food offerings. One traveler favorite is Makars Gourmet Mash Bar Company , which dishes up hearty favorites like sausages, lamb shank and vegetarian haggis atop mashed potatoes. For a small snack, pop by Pickles . It serves charcuterie boards along with pate, wine and other beverages. For a special occasion, visit Aizle for its delicious seasonal fare. 

Many of Edinburgh's restaurants are clustered around Old Town's Royal Mile and New Town's Princes Street. Thanks to its location right by the water, the northern village of Leith is the place to go for fresh seafood. South Edinburgh, or anywhere outside of the city center, also has a variety of cheaper cafes and restaurants for budget-minded travelers. If you want a little help navigating the Edinburgh dining scene, consider signing up for a food tour led by a local.

Edinburgh is a safe city. It's generally safe to walk around at night, but make sure to know where you're going. Parts of the city, especially Old Town, are filled with winding alleys, closes and wynds, making it easy to get lost at night. Exercise caution for pickpockets in tourist areas, but keep in mind that Edinburgh's low crime rate make pickpockets uncommon in comparison to other big European cities.

Getting Around Edinburgh

The best way to get around Edinburgh is by foot. This hilly city may have you a little out of breath at certain points, but it's still small enough that walking makes the most sense. When you grow tired or want to explore out-of-the-way areas, the city's efficient bus can cart you the rest of the way.  A bus – Airlink Shuttle , to be exact – can also bring you from Edinburgh Airport (EDI) into the city center in about the same time as a cab, but for fewer pounds. Once there, you can hop on the city's tram system or explore the city via bus or black cabs, which can be found on high streets (main thoroughfares) and other points of interests throughout town.

Entry & Exit Requirements

A valid travel document is required for United States citizens traveling outside the mainland by air or sea, as well as for U.S. citizens trying to re-enter the country. A United States passport is the preferred form of documentation, and children must have them, too. Note that U.S. citizens do not need a visa unless they plan on staying longer than six months. Visit the U.S. State Department's website for the latest information on the U.K.'s foreign exit and entry requirements.

Calton Hill offers spectacular views of the city below.

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Edinburgh Is the Perfect Mix of Old and New — With Luxury Hotels, Gothic Architecture, and a Surprising Food Scene

Though the romance of Edinburgh has long been rooted in the past, the Scottish capital is now a destination for the modern age.

From the air, Edinburgh looks horizontally expansive and vertically modest. It blends greenly with the surrounding countryside, thanks to its profusion of parks and gardens. As my plane circled the city on a June morning, I could spot the famous hills — which look more like craggy eruptions — around which the Scottish capital was built. There are no skyscrapers of the kind you’ll find in London or New York City. Edinburgh’s tallest building, St. Mary’s Episcopal Cathedral, measures 295 feet. 

I was all the more surprised, then, to discover that this is a city of panoramic vistas. Over the next five days, my husband, Caleb, and I repeatedly found ourselves surveying the Scottish capital from on high. We saw its full, broad sweep from the top of Arthur’s Seat, the massive (and extinct) volcano that dominates Holyrood Park . We descended the steep hillside staircase that links the medieval warren of Old Town with the neat Georgian grid of New Town. At the Lookout, a glass-box restaurant at the summit of Calton Hill, I ate a plate of late-spring asparagus, leeks, and cannellini beans while taking in a bird’s-eye view of the Firth of Forth, the estuary on which the city sits. 

Hayley Benoit

Still, for all their drama, none of these pinnacles is quite as plush as the rooftop lounge of the Gleneagles Townhouse . This hotel and members’ club, which opened only weeks before our visit, occupies a building that was, in the 19th century, the headquarters of the British Linen Bank, on the east side of St. Andrew Square. One evening I sat with Caleb and drank a frothy, citrusy mocktail while taking stock of the skyline from behind the robe-clad statues — allegorical figures representing Architecture, Science, Navigation, and other trades — that crown the hotel façade. The bar is open only to members and hotel guests, and is just subdued enough for conversation. 

Dessert is my love language, and at the Spence, it’s an occasion in itself. A waiter wheeled a multilayered cart to our table and invited us to choose from an array of cheeses, cookies, truffles, and other confections.

A week earlier, the 10-day forecast had predicted day upon day of the windy, rainy weather for which the region is famous — “one of the vilest climates under heaven,” according to the Edinburgh-born Robert Louis Stevenson. Now each of those days was turning out to be bright and balmy, and there seemed to be no better place to watch a mellow evening descend over the city than this cheerful, compact lounge — appropriately named Lamplighters, after Stevenson’s poem about the man who kindles the streetlamps when dusk falls. 

If you’re at all familiar with Gleneagles, the century-old resort an hour’s drive from Edinburgh in rural Perthshire, you might associate the name with gundogs and golf clubs, hawks and hunter green. In 2015, Gleneagles was purchased by the English hospitality firm Ennismore, which gave the property a significant refresh. Gleneagles Townhouse takes one step further in the direction of urbanity. True, there was green tile and pointer-dog wallpaper in our bathroom — but they felt like a knowing wink as much as a bow to tradition. More characteristic of Gleneagles 2.0 were the blush-pink chairs and celadon banquettes at the Spence, the hotel’s all-day restaurant, and, in the conference room, a childlike painting of a pig perched on its hind legs by the absurdist artist David Shrigley.

More Trip Ideas : 8 Best Small Towns in Scotland

“I imagine that Gleneagles Townhouse is the younger sibling who left the country, went to New York City, did some traveling, and then moved back,” Mike Ellis, the property’s resident manager, told me when we met at the Spence one morning. Ellis used to work at London’s Soho House, and wants the Townhouse to attract a similarly diverse clientele. “We’re not going for middle-aged blokes in suits and ties,” he said. (Ellis himself was dressed neatly but casually in chinos and white sneakers.) The average age of the Townhouse staff, he pointed out, is 29. Indeed, a team of fresh-faced young women and men greeted Caleb and me whenever we returned from exploring the city, and were so friendly that I felt compelled to recount our day’s activities to them all. 

Our room was a cocoon, decorated with rich colors and plush upholstery, Persian rugs, and a deep bathtub. But the 33 guest rooms — and almost everything else about the hotel — can’t help taking a back seat to the Spence, which occupies what was the grand central hall of the original bank, earning it a place with the great dining rooms of the world. A glass cupola soars high overhead, while carved portraits protrude from the ceiling. Marble columns support wedding-cake layers of molding. The counter in the center of the room where tellers once doled out bills is now a large, canopied bar. 

As it happened, we planned to have dinner at the Spence on my birthday. Dessert is my love language, and at the Spence, it’s an occasion in itself. A waiter wheeled a multilayered cart to our table and invited us to choose from an array of cheeses, cookies, truffles, and other confections. But the menu’s Valrhona chocolate “Nemesis,” a wedge of dense, fudgy goodness, beckoned. I paired it with — did I mention it was my birthday? — a side of salted-caramel ice cream. (After this decadence I swore off sweets for the foreseeable future, my vow lasting until I was back at the Spence for breakfast the next morning and encountered a bostock — a slice of brioche topped with almond cream — that looked too good to pass up, and was.) 

New places to stay are opening in Edinburgh all the time — this past year saw the arrival of a Virgin Hotel , and 100 Princes Street , part of the Red Carnation Hotel Collection, will open in spring 2023. But Gleneagles Townhouse has been something of an event. That’s partly because of the esteem in which the original Gleneagles is held, but it’s also, I think, due to the glamour and fizz it brings to this classical city. That said, we were traveling in June, and missed out on the spectacle that arrives each August, when the Edinburgh Festival Fringe all but takes over the streets.

Like English food, Scotland’s national cuisine has historically been ripe for parody. When we told friends about our trip, they jokingly asked if we were going to eat haggis, the legendary boiled pudding stuffed with sheep offal. Little did my inquisitors know, Edinburgh is a great dining city. Over five days, Caleb and I were presented with one creative dish after another, all showcasing local produce and seafood.

Related: How Fife Became Scotland's Most Exciting Food Destination

Hours after landing, we had a late lunch at Eleanore , two postage-stamp rooms on a relatively nondescript block of Leith Walk, the road that runs from the center of town to the waterfront. Eleanore is the overnight success story of Edinburgh restaurants; an offshoot of the beloved Little Chartroom, it opened last December and only months later won the city’s 2022 Restaurant of the Year Award. It was easy to see why as we revived ourselves with chunks of cured mackerel and yuzu wrapped in nasturtium leaves, fat Jersey Royal potatoes and king oyster mushrooms smothered in hollandaise sauce, and a slab of trout in a frothy crab bisque.

Later in our trip, the warm, pub atmosphere of Tom Kitchin’s Scran & Scallie , in the neighborhood of Stockbridge, was the perfect backdrop for an exemplary pie: chunks of smoked haddock, salmon, and shrimp in a thick cream sauce, topped with a layer of mashed potatoes. At Fhior , a serene series of rooms on the ground floor of a town house, we ate a gut-busting 10-course tasting menu that delivered a particularly Scottish version of molecular gastronomy. While seafood was the focal point, my favorite part was a tiny cheese tart filled with custard and pickled onions. I could have put away a dozen. 

Holyrood is unlike any city park I’ve ever seen — one with ruins and cliffs and a mountain in the middle of it. I looked up to its peaks and felt like I had landed in Tolkien’s Middle-earth.

It must be said: parts of Edinburgh are touristy. The carnivalesque atmosphere of Old Town’s Royal Mile — the street that runs between Edinburgh Castle , an important military fortress and the city’s most famous landmark, and the Palace of Holyrood, the King’s residence in the city — can be headache-inducing, with pubs and souvenir shops and tour leaders shouting over one another. Down in New Town, Princes Street, a main shopping thoroughfare, is also crowded and hectic. (Like many major commercial streets these days, it has a lot of shuttered storefronts.) The new St. James Quarter, a grand mall complex behind Gleneagles Townhouse, includes a bright, bronze-colored, spiral-shaped building — soon to be a W Hotel — that has attracted unfavorable attention for its architecture, which critics have compared to something a dog might deposit on the sidewalk. 

But it’s not difficult to step away from the scrum. The Balmoral, a Rocco Forte Hotel , is a grand Victorian with 187 rooms and suites that stands at the east end of Princes Street, a short distance from Calton Hill. Inside, all is cool and calm — an elegant counterpart to Gleneagles Townhouse’s buzzy fun. We stayed at the Balmoral for two nights, in a corner suite with windows that looked out over the activity of the main avenue but kept out all the sound. The hotel is full of crowd-pleasing nods to Scottish customs, from the doormen in their tartan uniforms to the plaid accents in our living room, including a couch so comfortable that I fell asleep every time I sat down on it. 

A short walk in almost any direction brings you to those green spaces that make the city look so inviting from the air. The Water of Leith is a meandering river that flows through Edinburgh, and one of the highlights of our stay was a walk along its shady banks. Starting west of the city, it runs for 22 miles. We bit off a more manageable chunk, slipping through a gate behind the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art and into what looked like deep countryside. 

We followed the water through Dean Village, a quaint residential area with appealing Tudor-style architecture, and into Stockbridge. (It’s worth your while to hop off the path here for a pistachio mazarin — a marzipan pastry topped with pistachio icing — at Söderberg , a Swedish bakery.) Time your stroll just right and you can arrive in the waterfront neighborhood of Leith in time for dinner at Borough , a subdued restaurant that does everything right, from its pared-down décor to its unfussy dishes that highlight Scottish produce, like Musselburgh leeks and raspberries grown just across the Firth of Forth. 

With its sloping streets and lack of discrete bike lanes, Edinburgh is not an obviously cyclist-friendly city.

But the traffic is respectful enough that you’re unlikely to get mowed down, and there’s no easier way to cover short distances. One afternoon Caleb and I rented bikes and pedaled to the used bookstores that dot the streets around the University of Edinburgh; then on to the Meadows, the long, pretty park where the students cluster; and to the foot of Holyrood Park. Holyrood is unlike any city park I’ve ever seen — one with ruins and cliffs and a mountain in the middle of it. I looked up to its peaks and felt like I had landed in Tolkien’s Middle-earth.

The next day we returned to Arthur’s Seat, this time to hike to the top. Within minutes, the city fell away. The elevation requires a bit of stamina, so the main path wasn’t too crowded. About midway up, Caleb, a bird-watcher, wandered off to look for chaffinches and dunnocks. I found myself walking in a kind of hollow. The land gently rose around me, and all I could hear was the wind. Space and time took on new proportions.

A notification popped up on my phone — a DM from a friend back in the States. “Can I write you a little later?” I replied. “I’m cupped in the world’s palm right now.” 

Where to Stay

The Balmoral : Edinburgh’s grande dame is celebrating its 120th anniversary. Don’t be put off by the busy location — inside, all is calm and collected.

Gleneagles Townhouse : This private club and plush 33-room hotel, the sister property of the original Gleneagles in Perthshire, brings urban panache to a historic brand.

Where to Eat

Borough : A low-key restaurant in Leith that confidently serves some of the best food in the city.

Eleanore : Shareable dishes that pack a wallop.

Fhior : Strap in for an adventurous multicourse meal that takes a creative approach to Scottish seafood.

The Lookout : The views are the only thing better than the food at this restaurant on top of Calton Hill.

Scran & Scallie : A cozy gastropub serving souped-up versions of traditional Anglo-Scottish fare, such as fish-and-chips and steak pie.

Söderberg : Pick up cardamom buns, almond tarts, and other treats at this Swedish coffee shop and bakery.

Cycle Scotland : This shop rents sturdy mountain bikes and e-bikes by the day or week.

Holyrood Park: Climb to the top of the 823-foot Arthur’s Seat for the best view in the city.

Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art : A superb collection of 20th-century works. Set aside time to wander the art-filled grounds.

Topping & Co.: Two comprehensively stocked floors, with tall wooden shelves and rolling ladders — what a bookstore should look like.

Water of Leith : Stroll the 13-mile walkway that runs through picturesque Dean Village and Stockbridge.

How to Book

T+L A-List advisor Jonathan Epstein can design a classic itinerary to Edinburgh and beyond. Email: jonathan@celebrated​experiences.com.

A version of this story first appeared in the December 2022/ January 2023 issue of  Travel + Leisure  under the headline "Great Scot ."

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Edinburgh, the showcase capital of Scotland, is a venerable, cosmopolitan and cultured city famed worldwide for its superb annual festival. The setting is wonderfully striking: perched on a series of extinct volcanoes and rocky crags which rise from the generally flat landscape of the Lothians, with the sheltered shoreline of the Firth of Forth to the north. “My own Romantic town”, Sir Walter Scott called it, although it was another native author, Robert Louis Stevenson, who perhaps best captured the feel of his “precipitous city”, declaring that “No situation could be more commanding for the head of a kingdom; none better chosen for noble prospects”. Edinburgh’s ability to capture the literary imagination has seen it dubbed a “World City of Literature” by UNESCO, who have also conferred World Heritage Site status on much of the centre.

Brief history of Edinburgh

What to do in edinburgh, accommodation in edinburgh.

• Out from Edinburgh's Centre

Edinburgh City Tours

Edinburgh drinking, eating in edinburgh.

• Edinburgh's New Town

Edinburgh nightlife and entertainment

Shopping in edinburgh, the edinburgh festival, the edinburgh international festival, the edinburgh festival fringe, fringe venues, the other festivals.

Edinburgh also featured in our reader survey of the most beautiful places in Scotland .

The area north of the castle, the dignified, Grecian-style New Town was laid out in the eighteenth century after the announcement of a plan to improve conditions in the city. The Old Town, on the other hand, with its tortuous alleys and tightly packed closes, is unrelentingly medieval, associated in popular imagination with the city’s underworld lore of murderers Burke and Hare and of schizophrenic Deacon Brodie, inspiration for Stevenson’s Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde.

Set on the hill which sweeps down from the fairy-tale castle to the royal Palace of Holyroodhouse, the Old Town preserves all the key reminders of its role as a historic capital, augmented now by the dramatic and unusual new Scottish Parliament building, opposite the palace. A few hundred yards away, a tantalizing glimpse of the wild beauty of Scotland’s scenery can be had in Holyrood Park, an extensive area of open countryside dominated by Arthur’s Seat, the largest and most impressive of the volcanoes. Among Edinburgh’s many museums, the exciting National Museum of Scotland houses 10,000 of Scotland’s most precious artefacts, while the National Gallery of Scotland and its offshoot, the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, house two of Britain’s finest collections of paintings.

Beyond the centre, Edinburgh’s liveliest area is Leith, the city’s medieval port, whose seedy edge is softened by a series of great bars and restaurants, along with the presence of the former royal yacht Britannia. The wider rural surroundings of Edinburgh, known as the Lothians, mix rolling countryside and attractive country towns with some impressive historic ruins.

Book tickets and tours in Edinburgh Old Town

Book tickets and tours in Edinburgh

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The Great British Road Trip

Get ready to explore Britain on this unique self-drive road trip. Choose the car of your liking before you hit the road: from the Cotswolds and its picturesque villages over the Beatle's favorite hang-out in Liverpool to Scotland's capital Edinburgh: this trip includes many highlights to be explored

6 days  / from 613 USD

Festive Feelings around Christmas in Scotland

Experience the magic of Christmas in the heart of the Scottish Highlands! Lovely Christmas Markets and winter festivals await visitors during the winter months, but this itinerary can also be turned into a summer festival hop!

11 days  / from 1070 USD

Scotland's Wildest Natural Scenery

Want to lose yourself in Scotland's wildest natural scenery? This itinerary is a breath of fresh air and perfect to explore the most enchanting landscapes of the Highlands. It will allow you to get to know the wildest landscapes of Scotland, its fast-paced history and its amazing traditions.

It was during the Dark Ages that the name Edinburgh – at least in its early forms of Dunedin or Din Eidyn (“fort of Eidyn”) – first appeared. The strategic fort atop the Castle Rock volcano served as Scotland’s southernmost border post until 1018, when King Malcolm I established the River Tweed as the permanent frontier. In the reign of Malcolm Canmore in the late eleventh century, the castle became one of the main seats of the court, and the town, which was given privileged status as a royal burgh, began to grow.

Turbulent Middle Ages

Under King James IV (1488–1513), the city enjoyed a short but brilliant Renaissance era, which saw not only the construction of a new palace alongside Holyrood Abbey, but also the granting of a royal charter to the College of Surgeons, the earliest in the city’s long line of academic and professional bodies. This period came to an abrupt end in 1513 with the calamitous defeat by the English at the Battle of Flodden leading to several decades of political instability. In the 1540s, English king Henry VIII’s attempt to force a royal union with Scotland led to the sack of Edinburgh, prompting the Scots to turn to France: French troops arrived to defend the city, while the young Scottish queen Mary was dispatched to Paris as the promised bride of the Dauphin, later Francois II of France. While the French occupiers succeeded in removing the English threat, they themselves antagonized the locals, who had become increasingly sympathetic to the ideals of the Reformation. When the radical preacher John Knox returned from exile in 1555, he quickly won over the city to his Calvinist message.

The Scottish Enlightenment

James VI’s rule saw the foundation of the University of Edinburgh in 1582, but following the Union of the Crowns in 1603, when James assumed the throne of England in addition to that of Scotland, the city was totally upstaged by London: although James promised to visit every three years, it was not until 1617 that he made his only return trip. The Union of the Parliaments of 1707 dealt a further blow to Edinburgh’s political prestige, though the guaranteed preservation of the national church and the legal and educational systems ensured that it was never relegated to a purely provincial role. On the contrary, it was in the second half of the eighteenth century that Edinburgh achieved the height of its intellectual influence, led by natives such as David Hume and Adam Smith. Around the same time, the city began to expand beyond its medieval boundaries, laying out the New Town, a masterpiece of the Neoclassical style and grand town planning.

The nineteenth century and beyond

Industrialization affected Edinburgh less than any other major city in the nation, and it never lost its white-collar character. Through the Victorian era Edinburgh cemented its role as a conservative bastion of the establishment, controlling Scotland’s legal, ecclesiastical and education systems. Nonetheless, the city underwent an enormous urban expansion in the nineteenth century, annexing, among many other small burghs, the large port of Leith.

In 1947 Edinburgh was chosen to host the great International Festival which served as a symbol of the new peaceful European order; despite some hiccups, it has flourished ever since, in the process helping to make tourism a mainstay of the local economy. During the 1980s Glasgow, previously the poor relation but always a tenacious rival, began to challenge the city’s status as a cultural centre, and it took the re-establishment of a devolved Scottish Parliament in 1999 for Edinburgh to reassert its status in a meaningful way. With debates and decisions about crucial aspects of the government of Scotland taking place in Edinburgh, there was a notable upturn in the city’s standing, augmented by significant achievements in scientific research and the arts. The financial sector burgeoned, with the Royal Bank of Scotland becoming the second largest banking group in the UK in the early years of the new century. Its near collapse and subsequent bail-out by the government during the 2009 economic crisis dented not only the city’s self-confidence, but also the arguments made by nationalist politicians that Scotland has the stability and economic prowess to prosper as an independent country.

Book tickets and tours in Glasgow

Visit the Palace of Holyroodhouse

For centuries the sometime residence of Scotland's kinds and queens, the Palace of Holyroodhouse has a hauntingly ruinous abbey. Book your entrance ticket ahead of time.

Explore Edinburgh Castle

Possibly the most iconic castle on earth, home to one of the world's most celebrated military parades. Take in the castle and several more of Edinburgh's world-class sights on a hop-on-hop-off bus tour .

Book tickets and tours in Edinburgh Castle

Take a tour of the Scottish Parliament

An architectural one-off that still divides opinion; squeeze in among the tourist hordes and decide for yourself.

Relax in Hollyrood Park

Get off the beaten track without leaving the city centre. To get to know the park and Portobello Promenade, take a 3-hour bike tour .

Celebrate Hogmanay

The most popular New Year blowout on the planet; get your ticket early.

Unwind at Dr Neil's Garden

Get even further off the beaten track in this low-key idyll by Duddingston Village. For souls who seek yet more of the great outdoors, Edinburgh is just about day-tripping distance from the legendary Loch Ness .

Meander through the Old Town

The haunted heart of old Edinburgh, with tenements, closes and catacombs piled up cheek-by-jowl. For some truly chilling storytelling, book onto a ghostly underground tour of Edinburgh's vaults.

Soak up views of the city skyline

The classic sightline southwest from Calton Hill, taking in the Old Town in all its magnificence, is gorgeous.

Take in Rosslyn Chapel

Da Vinci Code fever may have cooled, but this gothic masterpieces is as mesmerising as ever. Excellent tours combine a visit to Rosslyn Chapel with the gorgeous border town of Melrose and its Abbey.

Catch a show at the Edinburgh Festival

The whole world descends on Edinburgh come August for the mother of all arts extravagance.

Wander around the New Town

The Old Town's polar opposite, with dazzling Georgian crescents, postcard-pretty mews and manicured gardens.

Explore the Shore

Leith's medieval port and surrounds are a foodie paradise of Michelin stars, foraged produce and ethical eats.

Smell the flowers at the Royal Botanical Gardens

Edinburgh's showpiece gardens, with the world's biggest collection of wild Asian plants outside China.

Hole up in one of Edinburgh's pubs

Edinburgh's Camera Obscura has been a tourist attraction since 1853, while the World of Illusions is a labyrinth of family-friendly exhibits of optical illusions, holograms and clever visual trickery.

Enjoy old-school fun at the Camera Obscura and World of Illusions

Get your harry potter on.

Enjoy a Harry Potter-themed walking tour around Edinburgh and visit Tom Riddle's grave.

Sip the best of Scottish whiskey

There's no more Scottish drink than whiskey. Visit the distilleries of Dewar's and Deanston to sample some of the best.

Edinburgh has a greater choice of accommodation than anywhere else in Britain outside London. Hotels (and large backpacker hostels) are essentially the only options you’ll find right in the heart of the city, but within relatively easy reach of the centre the selection of guesthouses, B&Bs, campus accommodation and even campsites broadens considerably.

Making reservations is worthwhile at any time of year, and is strongly recommended for stays during the Festival and around Hogmanay, when places can get booked out months in advance.

Out from Edinburgh's Centre

Just over a mile northeast of the city centre is Leith, a fascinating mix of cobbled streets and new developments, run-down housing and excellent restaurants, as well as Edinburgh’s zoo, a perennial favourite with children.

Despite the compactness of the city centre, open-top bus tours are big business, with several companies taking slightly varying routes around the main sights. All cost much the same, depart from Waverley Bridge and allow you to get on and off at leisure. There are also several walking tours, many of which depart from the central section of the Royal Mile near the High Kirk of St Giles; ghost tours and specialist tours are also available. Advance booking is recommended for all tours, and for the specialist tours in particular.

Book overnight trip to Edinburgh

Many of Edinburgh’s pubs, especially in the Old Town, have histories that stretch back centuries, while others, particularly in the New Town, are unaltered Victorian or Edwardian period pieces. Add a plentiful supply of trendy modern bars, and there’s enough to cater for all tastes. Note that the opening hours quoted here may well be extended during Festival.

Edinburgh’s dining scene is a feather in the city’s cap – with five restaurants holding Michelin stars, it can justifiably claim second place behind London in the UK’s fine-dining pecking order. Under this level, small diners and bistros predominate, and Edinburgh is an excellent place if you like fish and shellfish. Plenty of tourist-oriented restaurants offer haggis and other classic clichés, mostly with little culinary merit; a better idea is to seek out the crop of places using locally sourced, quality ingredients available from small and artisan producers around Scotland. During the Festival the majority of restaurants keep longer hours than are given here, but they are also much busier.

Edinburgh's New Town

The New Town, itself well over two hundred years old, stands in total contrast to the Old Town: the layout is symmetrical, the streets are broad and straight, and most of the buildings are Neoclassical. Originally intended to be residential, today the New Town is the bustling hub of the city’s professional, commercial and business life, dominated by shops, banks and offices.

The existence of the New Town is chiefly due to the vision of George Drummond, who made schemes for the expansion of the city soon after becoming Lord Provost in 1725. Work began on the draining of the Nor’ Loch below the castle in 1759, a job that took some sixty years. The North Bridge, linking the Old Town with the main road leading to the port of Leith, was built between 1763 and 1772 and, in 1766, following a public competition, a plan for the New Town by 22-year-old architect James Craig was chosen. Its gridiron pattern was perfectly matched to the site: central George Street, flanked by showpiece squares, was laid out along the main ridge, with parallel Princes Street and Queen Street on either side, built up on one side only, so as not to block the spectacular views of the Old Town and Fife.

The layout of the greater New Town is a remarkable grouping of squares, circuses, terraces, crescents and parks along with Charlotte Square and the assemblage of curiosities on and around Calton Hill. However, it also contains assorted Victorian additions, notably the Scott Monument on Princes Street, the Royal Botanic Garden on its northern fringe, as well as two of the city’s most important public collections – the National Gallery of Scotland and, further afield, the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art.

National Gallery of Scotland

Princes Street Gardens are bisected by the Mound, one of only two direct road links between the Old and New Towns (the other is North Bridge), formed in the 1780s by dumping piles of earth and other waste brought from the New Town’s building plots. At the foot of the mound on the Princes Street level are two grand Neoclassical buildings, the interlinked National Gallery of Scotland and the Royal Scottish Academy. Both were designed by William Henry Playfair (1790–1857), though the exterior of the National Gallery is considerably more austere than its bold Athenian counterpart.

Built as a “temple to the fine arts” in 1850, the National Gallery houses Scotland’s finest array of European and Scottish art from the early 1300s to the late 1800s. Its modest size makes it a manageable place to visit in a couple of hours and affords a pleasantly unrushed atmosphere.

Early works

A gallery highlight is a superb painting by Botticelli, The Virgin Adoring the Sleeping Christ Child which, along with Raphael’s graceful tondo The Holy Family with a Palm Tree, has undergone careful restoration to reveal a striking luminosity and depth of colour. Of the four mythological scenes by Titian, the sensuous Three Ages of Man is one of his most accomplished early compositions. Alongside the Titians, Bassano’s Adoration of the Kings and a dramatic altarpiece, The Deposition of Christ, by Tintoretto, as well as several other works by Veronese, complete the fine Venetian section.

European highlights

Rubens’ The Feast of Herod is an archetypal example of his sumptuously grand manner. Among the four canvases by Rembrandt are a poignant Self-Portrait Aged 51 and the ripely suggestive Woman in Bed. Christ in the House of Martha and Mary is the largest and probably the earliest of the thirty or so surviving paintings by Vermeer.

Impressionist masters have a strong showing, including a collection of Degas’ sketches, paintings and bronzes, Monet’s Haystacks (Snow) and Renoir’s Woman Nursing Child. Representing the Post-Impressionists are three exceptional works by Gauguin, including Vision After the Sermon, set in Brittany, Van Gogh’s Olive Trees, and Cézanne’s The Big Trees – a clear forerunner of modern abstraction.

Scottish and English works

Of Sir Henry Raeburn’s large portraits, the swaggering masculinity of Sir John Sinclair in Highland Dress shows the artist’s technical mastery, though he was equally confident when working on a smaller scale, as seen in one of the gallery’s most popular pictures, The Rev Robert Walker Skating on Duddingston Loch. The gallery also owns a brilliant array of watercolours by Turner, faithfully displayed each January when damaging sunlight is at its weakest; at other times two of his fine Roman views are displayed in a dim gallery.

The Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art

At the far northwestern fringe of the New Town, the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art was Britain’s first collection devoted solely to twentieth-century painting and sculpture, and now covers two grand Neoclassical buildings on either side of Belford Road. The extensive wooded grounds serve as a sculpture park, featuring works by Jacob Epstein, Henry Moore, Barbara Hepworth and, most strikingly, Charles Jencks, whose Landform, a swirling mix of ponds and grassy mounds, dominates the area in front of the gallery.

The gallery on the western side of Belford Road, Modern One, divides its display spaces between temporary exhibitions and selections from the gallery’s own holdings; the latter are arranged thematically, but are almost constantly moved around. The collection starts with early twentieth-century Post-Impressionists, then moves through the Fauvists, German Expressionism, Cubism and Pop Art, with works by Lichtenstein and Warhol establishing a connection with the extensive holdings of Eduardo Paolozzi’s work in the Modern Two. There’s a strong section on living British artists, from Gilbert & George to Britart stars, while modern Scottish art ranges from the Colourists to the distinctive styles of contemporary Scots including John Bellany, a portraitist of striking originality, and the poet-artist-gardener Ian Hamilton Finlay.

Modern Two, also known as the Dean Gallery, was refurbished to make room for the huge collection of work of Edinburgh-born sculptor Sir Eduardo Paolozzi, described by some as the father of Pop Art. There’s an awesome introduction to Paolozzi’s work in the form of the huge Vulcan, a half-man, half-machine that squeezes into the Great Hall immediately opposite the main entrance – view it both from ground level and the head-height balcony to appreciate the sheer scale of the piece. In the rooms to the right of the main entrance Paolozzi’s London studio has been expertly re-created, right down to the clutter of half-finished casts, toys and empty pots of glue.

The ground floor also holds a world-renowned collection of Dada and Surrealist art; Marcel Duchamp, Max Ernst and Man Ray are all represented. Look out also for Dali’s The Signal of Anguish and Magritte’s Magic Mirror along with work by Miró and Giacometti – all hung on crowded walls with an assortment of artefacts and ethnic souvenirs. Elsewhere, look out for 2009 Turner Prize winner Richard Wright’s major wall-painting The Stairwell Project, his most complex and ambitious work to date in Britain.

Contemporary art in Edinburgh

In addition to the contemporary art collections in the city’s National Galleries there are a number of smaller, independent galleries around the city.

The Collective Gallery

Tends to focus on young local artists, and doesn’t flinch from showing experimental modern work. Tues–Sun 11am–5pm.

Edinburgh Printmakers

A highly respected studio and gallery dedicated to contemporary printmaking. Tues–Sat 10am–6pm.

Fruitmarket Gallery

The stylish modern design of this dynamic and much-admired art space is the capital’s first port of call for top-grade international artists. Mon–Sat 11am–6pm, Sun noon–5pm.

Ingleby Gallery

Ingleby’s reputation for ambitious projects and innovative artists makes it one of the nation’s foremost small private art galleries, often featuring Scotland’s premier stars such as Alison Watt, Kenny Hunter and Callum Innes. Mon–Sat 10am–6pm, plus Sun noon–5pm in Aug.

Open Eye Gallery

One of the city’s best commercial galleries, regularly featuring shows by Scotland’s top contemporary artists.

Scottish Gallery

The longest established of a number of small galleries on this New Town street; some of the most striking works are in the basement area, dedicated to applied art. Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat 10am–4pm.

Inevitably, Edinburgh’s nightlife is at its best during the Festival, which can make the other 49 weeks of the year seem like an anticlimax. However, at any time the city has plenty to offer, especially in the realm of theatre and music. The best way to find out what’s on is to pick up a copy of The List, a fortnightly listings magazine covering both Edinburgh and Glasgow.

Princes Street, one of Britain’s most famous shopping streets, is all but dominated by standard chain outlets, though no serious shopper should miss out on a visit to Edinburgh’s venerable department store, Jenners, opposite the Scott Monument. More fashionable upmarket shops are to be found on and around parallel George Street, including a street (Multrees Walk) of exclusive international fashion boutiques on the east side of St Andrew Square. There’s nothing compelling about central Edinburgh’s two big shopping malls, Princes Mall and the St James Centre, which are dominated by the big names.

For more original outlets, head for Victoria Street and the Grassmarket where you’ll find an eclectic range of antique, crafts, food and book shops. Along and around the Royal Mile, meanwhile, several distinctly offbeat places sit among the tacky souvenir sellers. Edinburgh’s only regular market is its impressive farmers’ market, on Castle Terrace, immediately west of the castle, which draws around 35 local produce stalls from south and east Scotland.

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For all its appeal as a historic and attractive capital city, Edinburgh is perhaps best known for its incredible annual Festival, which takes place every August and transforms the place into an overwhelming mass of cultural activity. To even attempt to get a handle on what’s going on, it’s worth appreciating that the “Edinburgh Festival” is an umbrella term that encompasses several different festivals. The principal events are the Edinburgh International Festival and the much larger Edinburgh Festival Fringe, but there are also Book, Jazz and Blues and Art festivals going on, as well as a Military Tattoo on the Castle Esplanade.

The sheer volume of the Festival’s output can be bewildering: virtually every branch of arts and entertainment is represented, and world-famous stars mix with pub singers in the daily line-up. It can be a struggle to find accommodation, get hold of the tickets you want, book a table in a restaurant or simply get from one side of town to another; you can end up seeing something truly dire, or something mind-blowing; you’ll inevitably try to do too much, stay out too late or spend too much – but then again, most Festival veterans will tell you that if you don’t experience these things then you haven’t really “done” the Festival.

Dates, venues, names, star acts, happening bars and burning issues change from one year to the next. This unpredictability is one of the Festival’s greatest charms, so be prepared for – indeed, enjoy – the unexpected.

The Edinburgh International Festival, or the “Official Festival”, was the original Edinburgh Festival, conceived in 1947 as a celebration of pan-European culture in the postwar era. Initially dominated by opera, other elements such as top-grade theatre, ballet, dance and classical music now carry as much weight, and it’s still a highbrow event, its high production values and serious approach offering an antidote to the Fringe’s slapdash vigour.

Performances take place at the city’s larger venues such as the Usher Hall and the Festival Theatre and, while ticket prices run to over £60, it is possible to see shows for £10 or less if you’re prepared to queue for the handful of tickets kept back until the day. The festival culminates in a Fireworks Concert beside the castle, visible from various points in the city.

Even standing alone from its sister festivals, the Fringe is easily the world’s largest arts gathering. Each year sees more than 40,000 performances from more than 750 companies, with more than 21,000 participants from all over the world. There are something in the region of 1500 shows every day, round the clock, in 250 venues around the city. Much more than any other part of the Festival, it’s the dynamism, spontaneity and sheer exuberance of the Fringe that dominate Edinburgh every August.

These days, the most prominent aspect of the Fringe is comedy, but you’ll also find a wide range of theatre, musicals, dance, children’s shows, exhibitions, lectures and music – and a decent range of free shows.

While the Fringe is famous for its tiny and unexpected auditoriums, five Fringe giants colonize clusters of different-sized spaces for the duration of the Festival. These are all safe bets for decent shows and a bit of star-spotting. And while it’s nothing like as large as the venues reviewed here, you shouldn’t ignore the programme put on at the Traverse Theatre. Long a champion of new drama, the “Trav” combines the avant-garde with professional presentation and its plays are generally among the Fringe’s most acclaimed.

Long based in George Street’s Assembly Rooms, Assembly has been on the move in recent years with its impressive line-up of top-of-the-range drama and big-name music and comedy acts.

The most varied programme of the big five, occasionally staging controversial productions that other venues might be too wary to promote.

Gilded Balloon

The comedy-focused Gilded Balloon bases its operations in a students’ union, the gothic Teviot Row.

Pleasance Courtyard

A slightly raucous atmosphere, thanks to its busy courtyard bar, with offbeat comedy and whimsical appearances by panellists on Radio 4 game shows. They organize events at a variety of external venues, too.

Operates eleven comedy and cabaret spaces, including the giant, inflatable upside-down cow, “the Underbelly”, on Bristo Square.

Edinburgh Art Festival

A relative newcomer on the scene, held throughout August and including high-profile exhibitions by internationally renowned contemporary artists as well as retrospectives of work by pioneering twentieth-century artists. Virtually every art gallery in the city participates, from small private concerns to blockbuster shows at the National Galleries of Scotland’s five venues.

Edinburgh International Book Festival

Taking place in the last two weeks of August, this is the world’s largest celebration of the written word. It’s held in a tented village in Charlotte Square and offers talks, readings and signings by a star-studded line-up of visiting authors, as well as panel discussions and workshops.

Edinburgh Jazz and Blues Festival

Immediately prior to the Fringe in the first week in August, easing the city into the festival spirit. Highlights include nightly jam sessions and a colourful New Orleans-style Mardi Gras and street parade.

The Military Tattoo

Staged in the spectacular stadium of the Edinburgh Castle Esplanade, the Tattoo is an unashamed display of pomp and military pride. The programme of choreographed drills, massed pipe bands, historical tableaux, energetic battle re-enactments, national dancing and pyrotechnics has been a feature of the Festival for over half a century, its emotional climax provided by a lone piper on the Castle battlements. Followed by a quick fireworks display, it’s a successful formula barely tampered with over the years. Tickets (£16–50) should be booked well in advance.

Edinburgh hosts one of the worlds’ landmark New Year’s Eve street parties, with around 100,000 people on the streets of the city seeing out the old year. For the street party, stages are set up in different parts of the city centre, with big-name rock groups and local ceilidh bands playing to the increasingly inebriated masses. The high point of the evening is, of course, midnight, when hundreds of tons of fireworks are let off into the night sky above the castle, and Edinburgh joins the rest of the world singing “Auld Lang Syne”, an old Scottish tune with lyrics by Robert Burns, Scotland’s national poet.

When hardline Scottish Protestant clerics in the sixteenth century abolished Christmas for being a Catholic mass, the Scots, not wanting to miss out on a mid-winter knees-up, instead put their energy into greeting the New Year, or Hogmanay. Houses were cleaned from top to bottom, debts were paid and quarrels made up, and, after the bells of midnight were rung, great store was laid by welcoming good luck into your house. This still takes the form of the tradition of “first-footing” – visiting your neighbours and bearing gifts. The ideal first-foot is a tall dark-haired male carrying a bottle of whisky; women or redheads, on the other hand, bring bad luck – though, to be honest, no one carrying a bottle of whisky tends to be turned away these days, whatever the colour of their hair. All this neighbourly greeting means a fair bit of partying, and no one is expected to go to work the next day, or, indeed, the day after that. Even today, January 1 is a public holiday in the rest of the UK, but only in Scotland does the holiday extend to the next day too.

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Let’s explore Edinburgh

Edinburgh travel guide

I adore Edinburgh. It’s one of my favourite European city breaks and a place that’s full of magic around every corner. 

Edinburgh is a place where I can easily while away an afternoon in a quaint café with a good book as the rain falls outside. Or I can spend evenings seeking out the best bars and restaurants, and revelling in the lively nightlife. 

I share all of my top recommendations and tips for exploring the city in my travel guide.

About the author

Jessie Moore is a luxury travel expert with years of experience travelling the world to find the best destinations, hotels and adventures.

Edinburgh is a beguiling city of historic charm and cosmopolitan energy. Its 12th century castle stands proudly above the city, which is entangled with the craggy landscape it sits within. Yet Edinburgh’s iconic city skyline only hints at the magic within.

Explore the neoclassical architecture of the New Town and discover why Edinburgh is nicknamed the “Athens of the North”. Just a hop, skip and a jump from the Georgian influences of the New Town are the Gothic hallmarks of the medieval Old Town. Lose yourself among the cobbled streets and seek out the charming nooks and crannies around every corner of the city.

From a contemporary arts scene to Harry Potter nostalgia, Edinburgh has an emphatically creative heart that inspires and uplifts its discerning visitors. It’s no wonder that the city plays host to the world’s most famous arts festival every year: the Edinburgh Fringe Festival.

Edinburgh is a place where you can happily while away an afternoon in a cosy café. Yet like any modern cosmopolitan city, it also caters for well-heeled jet-setters, with a selection of fine dining restaurants and chic bars. But there’s no stuffiness or pretentiousness here. This is equally a city of relaxed pubs, late night partying and beer-fuelled antics. 

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How to get to Edinburgh

• By plane. Overseas visitors can easily reach Edinburgh by plane. With the increase of low-cost airlines from across Europe, Edinburgh is now more accessible than ever. Those travelling from the US can fly direct from New York and Chicago. Canadian tourists can fly direct from Toronto. If you’re travelling from within the UK, most major British airports offer low-cost flights to Edinburgh. Edinburgh city centre is a 20 minute drive from the airport. A taxi will cost around £25. Alternatively, for a more budget-friendly option, regular bus and tram services are available too. The journey by bus or tram takes around 30 minutes.
• By train. Edinburgh is easily accessible by rail and is generally the best option for those travelling from many of the major cities in Britain. Edinburgh has two major railway stations: Edinburgh Waverley and Haymarket. LNER provides train services from Edinburgh to Aberdeen, Leeds, London, Newcastle and York. TransPennine Express connects Edinburgh with Leeds, Manchester, Newcastle, Preston and York. Virgin Rail links Edinburgh to London via Lockerbie, Preston, Birmingham and Coventry. Anyone travelling from London can get to Edinburgh in approximately five hours via LNER or Virgin Rail. Alternatively, the Caledonian Sleeper offers an overnight train service from London Euston. This option runs every night except Saturdays.
• By car. Edinburgh is easily accessible by car, with excellent road links from many surrounding cities and regions. However, it is generally recommended to travel by public transport where possible. Parking can be limited within the city centre, plus it’s not necessary to have a car to get around. Arriving in Edinburgh by car is most suitable for those who are visiting the city as part of a road trip itinerary. A good parking option is to make use of the Edinburgh Park and Ride, where you can then hop on the tram to the city centre.

How to get around Edinburgh

Edinburgh is a wonderfully compact city, meaning you won’t have to rely on public transport if you don’t want to. Even still, if you prefer to save your feet the miles, there are a number of reliable options available to you.

• By foot. As a relatively small city, Edinburgh is very easily explored on foot. Even some of the attractions on the outskirts of the city can be reached in as little as 20-30 minutes from the centre by walking. It’s also the best way to discover a city like Edinburgh. Only on foot can you stumble across those charming corners and magical nooks.
• By bus. Buses run a reliable 24 hour service across Edinburgh. Lothian Buses is the company which runs the majority of buses in the city. Airlink100 runs a regular bus service to and from the airport. While the night bus is ideal for getting home after a late night out – particularly helpful during the festival season. Just be wary that buses can take a little while to get from A to B. The winding cobbled streets of Edinburgh were not built with buses in mind!
• By tram. The tram runs in a straight line from Edinburgh Airport to York Place in New Town. Trams are faster and more efficient than the bus, but they have a far more limited reach. It’s actually being extended in 2023 to Newham and Leith, which will be handy for reaching some of the best restaurants in Edinburgh. For now, the tram is most helpful at getting you from the airport to the city centre – or from the Edinburgh Park and Ride at Ingliston tram stop.
• By bike. The majority of Edinburgh is very cyclist friendly, with dedicated cycle lanes and off-pavement cycle routes. Note that the very centre of Edinburgh is a little trickier to navigate by bike, due to heavy traffic – best avoided for those who aren’t used to getting around by bike. The city has its own bike hire scheme run by Edinburgh Cycle Hire . Or you’ll be able to find a number of independent bike rental shops too.
• By taxi. It’s generally quite straightforward to flag down a taxi in Edinburgh. They are usually black and are similar to the black cabs of London. To book a taxi in advance, Central Taxis, City Cabs and Comcab are the primary taxi companies in Edinburgh. Both Bolt and Uber also operate in Edinburgh. Although these are often cheaper and more convenient, be wary of surge pricing during peak periods and festival season.
• By car. It’s not generally recommended to get around Edinburgh by car. Traffic is heavy and parking is limited. The only time it’s useful to have or hire a car is if you plan on doing some day trips from Edinburgh . You’ll be able to find the usual car rental companies at the station or airport.

Top tip: Download the Transport for Edinburgh app for real-time updates on bus and tram service times and routes. Or the ever-popular Citymapper app is super handy too, telling you exactly where the bus stops are (perfect if, like me, you are terrible at navigating buses).

Best time to visit Edinburgh

Edinburgh effortlessly carries its charm and beauty through every season of the year. From the wet and windy depths of winter to the light and sunny highs of summer, each season brings its own distinct personality and experience. 

Edinburgh highlights

Harry potter in edinburgh.

As you wander the enchanting streets of Edinburgh, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’ve stepped onto Diagon Alley or into the village of Hogsmeade. It’s no secret that Edinburgh provided inspiration to J.K.Rowling’s Wizarding World. It was in those snug cafés where the world of Harry Potter was conceived. Once you’ve visited Edinburgh, you’ll recognise the city’s whimsical nature and bewitching locations shining through the pages of the books.

Edinburgh is a must-visit for any Harry Potter fan. Embark on a Harry Potter tour of the city, or visit one of the themed shops. Stroll along the iconic Victoria Street to experience the real-life Diagon Alley. Visit Greyfriar’s Kirkyard and see how many recongisable names you can spot on the gravestones, from Potter to McGonagall. Don’t forget to find Tom Riddle’s grave!

Stop by the Bow Bar for Leaky Cauldron vibes, or visit the Bank of Scotland for the real-life Gringotts (no goblins here though). For a more luxurious experience of the Harry Potter world, pay a visit to Balmoral Hotel . This is where J.K.Rowling finished the final book – and is also a great spot for afternoon tea.

Discover the best Harry Potter things to do in Edinburgh .

Beautiful Stockbridge

The bohemian neighbourhood of Stockbridge lies just a scenic 15 minute walk away from Princes Street. A popular hangout for many artists, musicians, thespians and writers over the years, it has a thriving creative energy and inviting idiosyncrasies to discover. Stockbridge has the feel of a historic village and it’s a place where long-standing locals blend with young professionals and creatives.

The result of this melting pot of artistic spirits is an intriguing selection of independent boutiques, fascinating shops and inviting cafés, bars and restaurants. If you’re visiting Edinburgh at the weekend, be sure to pay a visit to the Stockbridge Market on Sunday. It’s a wonderful farmer’s market offering a plethora of artisan goods and handmade crafts, from jewellery and soaps to crepes and cheeses.

The Water of Leith meanders through the heart of Stockbridge. Be sure to pay a visit to the ancient water mills at tranquil Dean Village, a place which looks as though it has been lifted from the pages of a fairytale. Or wander down the effortlessly picturesque Circus Lane, a cobbled residential street. Within close proximity to Stockbridge are the Royal Botanic Gardens – one of the most beautiful attractions in Edinburgh.

Edinburgh Fringe Festival

A world-famous arts festival, the Edinburgh Fringe is known across the globe. In August, hundreds of artists and performers descend on Scotland’s capital, ready to take the stage by storm. There are thousands of shows performed in over 300 venues across the city. Eager visitors flock to Edinburgh to get immersed in the creative energy and be endlessly entertained by the talent.

With so many performances, the quality varies and you’ll find both well-known names and total unknowns. This is all part of the fun! With such a high number of performers and shows, audience members can enjoy a whole host of entertainment. From enthralling theatre and stand-up comedy to cabaret and circus acts, there is something for everyone.

As you can imagine, it can be overwhelming to choose which shows to see. Browse the Edinburgh Fringe website , create your own calendar, and check the local news sites. Some shows require you to book paid tickets, some require free tickets, while the street performances don’t generally require a ticket.

How long to spend in Edinburgh?

For your first visit to the city, you’ll need at least two or three days to explore. As the city is quite compact, you don’t need too long. However, Edinburgh is best experienced at a slower pace, to really enjoy its charm.

Edinburgh is a city that you’ll want to visit time and time again – so there’s no need to rush.

Is Edinburgh a good destination for solo travellers?

Edinburgh is one of the best cities in Europe for solo travel . As a relatively small city, it feels incredibly welcoming to solo adventurers with an intimate feel and friendly locals.

Solo travellers will feel safe in Scotland’s capital, and there’s plenty to do and places to see.

Is Edinburgh expensive?

Edinburgh is a relatively expensive city but not compared to other well-known cities across the world. Compared to London, it is certainly more affordable. Prices vary considerably within the different city areas.

It’s possible to visit Edinburgh on a budget – but likewise, it’s a great place to experience a touch of luxury and fine dining.

How many Michelin star restaurants in Edinburgh?

Edinburgh has one Michelin star restaurant and two Bib Gourmand restaurants. Condita is the proud owner of one Michelin star and offers an intimate dining experience on Salisbury Place. Both Noto and The Scran & Scallie both have the prized Bib Gourmand rating. Discover the best Michelin restaurants in Edinburgh .

Where is Diagon Alley in Edinburgh?

The iconic Victoria Street is considered to be the real-life inspiration for Harry Potter’s Diagon Alley. As is nearby Cockburn Street (pronounced Coburn Street), both located in the Old Town of Edinburgh.

Where is the oldest pub in Edinburgh?

The White Hart Inn is considered to be the oldest pub in Edinburgh – as well as the most haunted! Dating from 1516, this historic establishment is located in the Grassmarket area of Edinburgh.

Do you need to pre-book Edinburgh Castle?

Yes, it is recommended that you book tickets for Edinburgh Castle online in advance. This will save you a fair bit of queueing, ensures guaranteed entry, and gets you the cheapest prices available. 

When is the Edinburgh Fringe Festival?

Each year, the Edinburgh Fringe Festival takes place throughout the month of August, lasting for around three weeks. In 2022, the Edinburgh Fringe Festival will run from 5th – 29th August.

Are there Christmas Markets in Edinburgh?

Yes, East Princes Street Gardens plays host to the Edinburgh Christmas market each year. Discover local goodies, artisan gifts and tasty treats. It’s sure to get you into the festive spirit! Edinburgh’s Christmas market usually runs from the end of November to the start of January.

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Luxury accommodation picks

From iconic establishments to boutique apartments, there is an impressive range of luxury hotels in Edinburgh . Here are some of my top picks.

BALMORAL HOTEL

NIRA CALEDONIA

CHEVAL GRAND

Top Edinburgh restaurants

FORAGE & CHATTER

TWENTY PRINCES STREET

An award-winning restaurant with an elegant, stylish setting and a fun, innovative menu.

Top Edinburgh cafés

Edinburgh is known for its cosy café culture. There is no better place to settle with a fantastic cup of artisan coffee and a good book – or to simply watch the world go by. Have a read of my guide to the best cafés in Edinburgh or check out my top picks below.

THE MILKMAN

TWELVE TRIANGLES

ARTISAN ROAST

FORTITUDE COFFEE

Edinburgh landmarks & attractions

There are plenty of attractions to see and things to do in Edinburgh , but make sure you add these top picks to your itinerary.

EDINBURGH CASTLE

SCOTTISH NATIONAL GALLERY

ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS

CALTON HILL

Edinburgh travel inspiration

Planning a trip to Edinburgh? Have a read of these Edinburgh travel articles to help you plan your visit.

18 best luxury hotels in Edinburgh 

Whether you’re heading to the Scottish capital for the festival and fringe, Hogmanay or simply to enjoy spending time in this incredibly beautiful place, I think there are some truly fabulous luxury hotels in Edinburgh

12 best coffee shops & cafés in Edinburgh

Edinburgh is a beguiling city of craggy charm and quirky creativity. If you follow me on social media then you’ll know about my ongoing love affair with Edinburgh. It’s easy to see how its magical

17 Michelin restaurants in Edinburgh for fine dining in the Scottish capital

Do you want to find the finest places to eat in the Scottish capital? I don’t blame you! Luckily, my ultimate guide to Michelin restaurants in Edinburgh is here to help you seek out the

10 incredible UK cities to visit

As a lifelong UK resident, I may be biased but I think we have some truly remarkable travel destinations here. While I love the English countryside, there are some amazing adventures to be had across

Pocket Wanderings is a luxury travel and lifestyle brand run by London-based content creator, Jessie Moore. Here you’ll find a community of fellow wanderlusters and adventurers.

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Visiting Edinburgh for the First Time: 17 Tips & Tricks

By Author Jurga

Posted on Last updated: April 23, 2024

Traveling to Edinburgh in Scotland for the first time and not sure where to start? Planning a trip to Edinburgh might be overwhelming indeed and especially so if this is your first time in the city!

With its rich, fascinating history, culture, and ancient architecture coupled with its modern arts scene and world-famous festivals, Edinburgh is a city with something for everyone.

But if you’re visiting Edinburgh for the first time, there are so many options that deciding where to stay and what to do can be difficult… When to visit Edinburgh? What are the best places to stay? How to save time and money and still see the best that the city has to offer?

So to help you plan your first trip to Edinburgh, we selected some of the best tips for visiting Edinburgh . This practical guide will help you get the very most from your stay, with advice on getting around the city, how to save money, the best time to visit, and lots more! Take a look!

1. Book in advance

When it comes to visiting Edinburgh, planning is key! This Scottish capital is one of the UK’s most beautiful cities and attracts more than 3 million visitors per year. For a relatively small city, that’s a lot of people!

The result, of course, is crowds – particularly in the summer – and long lines to visit Edinburgh’s main attractions .

For this reason, it’s essential to plan ahead . This includes booking your accommodation, your tickets to attractions, and – if you want to dine at a specific restaurant – even making reservations for dinner. Some of Edinburgh’s best restaurants are highly popular and can be booked for weeks in advance.

Another advantage of booking online ahead of time is that it drastically cuts down on queuing! It’s not uncommon to wait in line for well in excess of an hour to buy tickets for Edinburgh Castle, for example.

TIP: If you feel overwhelmed, join a guided tour (tours include skip-the-line tickets for the castle). And if you don’t feel like joining the masses at Edinburgh Castle, a great alternative is to visit Holyrood Palace instead . Not only is it quieter, but some people even argue that it’s even more interesting, with State apartments, a Throne Room, the Great Gallery, and its beautiful Palace Gardens to explore!

Holyrood Palace – which had connections with Bonnie Prince Charlie and Mary Queen of Scots – is today used by the Queen when she has official engagements in Scotland. The palace is also open to visitors the whole year round.

2. Stay close to Waverly

If you want to make the most of your trip to Edinburgh, stay in the city center ! Any accommodation within walking distance of Waverley railway station will be in the heart of the city, with all the main sights and attractions right on your doorstep!

Here are some of the most popular and best-rated centrally-located Edinburgh hotels:

£££££+ The Balmoral – one of the most luxurious 5* hotels in Edinburgh. £££££ The Scotsman – luxury 4* hotel in the Old Town. ££££ Hilton Edinburgh Carlton – a more affordable luxury. £££ Old Waverley Hotel – a very popular 3* hotel. ££+ Fraser Suites Edinburgh – a beautiful mid-budget hotel in the Old Town.

In addition to the major hotels, you will find many B&Bs sprinkled throughout the city. Staying in a bed and breakfast will often give you the opportunity to get to know a local family as well. You’ll find the Scots extremely friendly and more than happy to share information about the city of which they’re so rightly proud.

The best budget hotels are Motel One – Royal and Motel One – Princes .

If you’re on an even lower budget , there are some great options in Edinburgh too. For hostels, try the High Street Hostel or the Castle Rock Hostel .

TIP: Using the map below, you can also compare hotels, apartments, and privately rented accommodations in Edinburgh. Simply insert your travel dates and group size, and you’ll see the best deals for your stay. Check it out!

3. Explore Edinburgh on foot

One of the most wonderful things about visiting Edinburgh – particularly if you only have time for a brief visit – is its small size. It’s easy to explore the nicest areas of the city center on foot.

In fact, walking is absolutely the best way to see the Old Town , with all its little secret courtyards, mysterious staircases, and tiny side streets concealing vintage shops and independent boutiques.

All the main attractions are within walking distance of each other. Only the Botanic Gardens are located outside the main part of the city and the Royal Yacht Britannia. For these places, you could either take a hop-on hop-off bus or rent a bike.

Cycling is a really good option for places that are located a bit further away. In the past, Edinburgh had a convenient cycle-sharing system, but it has now stopped due to vandalism. So if you want to explore the highlights of the city by bike, you can look for a cycle hire or opt for a bike tour .

If you decide to take public transport , be sure to have the correct money for your fare – change will not be given on the bus. Alternatively, pay using a contactless card or smartphone, or buy unlimited adult, child, or family travel tickets using the Transport for Edinburgh bus app . This app also provides a real-time schedule and useful route maps. It’s also a good idea to let your driver know your destination as you board and sit close by, so that you can check if you are close to your stop. Most stops are not announced and it’s very easy to miss your destination!

Good to know: Edinburgh’s traffic is heavy, so it can often take longer to reach a destination by bus or taxi than it would on foot. Not to mention the fact that taxis – and even Ubers – are expensive.

We don’t recommend hiring a car either. Many of the best areas are inaccessible by car and parking is hard to find and expensive. If you hire a car, do it only for the days when you are exploring outside of the city. Remember that they drive on the left in the UK and the majority of cars in Scotland use manual transmission, with the gear shift located on the left.

TIP: For the airport transfer to the city, you can take this convenient (and cheap) bus .

4. Enjoy Edinburgh’s FREE attractions

Edinburgh has a lot of amazing free attractions. There are some really nice things to do at absolutely no cost whatsoever (although donations are always welcome).

The National Museum of Scotland is not to be missed, with exhibits that celebrate the natural world, art and design, science and technology, world cultures, and Scottish history. It’s one of the musts in Edinburgh!

There are also free guided tours of the Scottish Parliament .

Other free attractions include the Museum of Edinburgh , the Peoples’ Story Museum , the Museum of Childhood , the Writers’ Museum , and the stunning Botanic Gardens and the Princes Street Gardens.

There are many free walking tours available , which give you a fantastic opportunity to learn more about the city from someone who knows it well! We recommend taking a walking tour at the start of your visit. That way you can go back and explore the things that interest you most later on. Although the tours are free, it is customary to tip your guide.

You might also want to take a stroll through some of Edinburgh’s fascinating graveyards ( kirkyards ), where you’ll find interesting monuments and burial sites. These include a statue of Abraham Lincoln in the Old Calton Burial Ground, the grave of Adam Smith in the Canongate Kirkyard, and a memorial for Robert Louis Stevenson in Princes Street Gardens.

5. Save money with the Royal Edinburgh Ticket

Once you’ve exhausted all the free attractions, another good way to save money is to purchase an Edinburgh Royal Ticket .

This ticket includes top-3 of Edinburgh’s Royal sights (Edinburgh Castle, Royal Yacht Britannia, and Holyroodhouse) and unlimited travel on a hop-on-hop-off bus. It’s valid for 48 hours and – if you are planning on visiting all these attractions – offers really good value.

6. View the city from above

Some of the best views of Edinburgh are those from a higher ground, where you can enjoy a sweeping panorama encompassing both a modern cityscape and a historic skyline.

Some of the most popular spots that offer an excellent vantage point include Calton Hill , the top of the Scott Monument, and the rooftop terrace of the National Museum . Or you can also book a rooftop tour of St Giles Cathedral .

Alternatively, go to the top of the Camera Obscura attraction, where you’ll find telescopes for an even closer view out to the horizon.

If you feel like hiking, the views from Arthur’s Seat are incredible. From here, you can see the Firth of Forth estuary, Edinburgh Castle, and Holyrood Palace. Whilst not overly strenuous, this is a 2-hour hike up the remnants of an extinct volcano and requires a reasonable level of fitness (and plenty of water!). But the reward when you get to the top is definitely worth the effort!

TIP: Edinburgh’s sunsets are gorgeous! If possible, try to get to a high point during the golden hour in order to take some truly stunning photographs.

7. Dress for Edinburgh’s weather!

Edinburgh is a curious place where it’s almost possible to experience all four seasons in one day! The rule of thumb is to expect the unexpected and dress accordingly .

Ideally, you should dress in layers. Sometimes, you may leave your hotel on a sunny morning in just a T-shirt, only to find the temperatures plummeting as soon as the sun disappears an hour later!

And the city is, of course, notorious for its rain which comes down often… and heavily!

Waterproof clothing is a must, but umbrellas aren’t always the best solution. Not only will negotiating Edinburgh’s crowded streets with an umbrella make you unpopular with other pedestrians, but the wind will likely turn it inside out within minutes! On the other hand, when it pours and you have nowhere to hide, it can be a lifesaver!

Make sure you wear comfortable, waterproof footwear. You will be doing lots of exploring on foot and many of the streets and walkways in the Old Town are cobbled. You might even want to consider lightweight walking boots which will give extra support to your ankles when walking on uneven surfaces.

8. Visit in May-June or September-early October

Late spring and early fall is a great time to visit Edinburgh. The weather is (generally) relatively warm and it is light until around 9 to 10 pm, giving you extra time to enjoy the sights. I say generally because we once visited in June and it was quite cold and pouring all the time. You just really never know in Edinburgh.

Another good thing about visiting in the shoulder season is that it’s far less busy than in the peak months of July and August. Accommodation is also (usually) more affordable. I say usually because all the affordable hotels were booked when we visited in June (yes, that same cold and wet visit I talked about above :)) and it was practically impossible to find anything decent under £350 for 2 people per night.

Good to know: October can be particularly beautiful, with the striking colors of the autumnal foliage. But do bear in mind that many seasonal businesses and accommodation providers close around the middle of the month.

9. Avoid festival season (unless you want to visit a festival, of course!)

The population of Edinburgh virtually doubles in August, when the Edinburgh International Festival, Edinburgh Fringe Festival, and Edinburgh Military Tattoo all take place. Celebrating a mixture of music, theatre, comedy, and dance, these events are globally famous and attract visitors from all over the world.

They are also incredibly cool and well worth a visit should you be willing to face the crowds. As an extra bonus, the weather in August should be the best of the year, with pleasant temperatures and (usually) less rain.

However, the streets are packed with people, accommodation is hard to find, restaurant reservations are like gold dust, and the price of EVERYTHING goes up. So unless you plan to attend the festivals or related events, we would strongly recommend avoiding the city center throughout the entire month of August.

You can, however, take advantage of August’s better weather by staying outside the more popular areas. Stockbridge – with its quaint cafes and trendy pubs – is within walking distance of the city center, as is Leith, the vibrant port district with its waterfront seafood bistros. Both are also well connected to the center of Edinburgh by bus.

Another busy time for Edinburgh is Hogmanay – Scotland’s famous celebration of the New Year. It’s one of the world’s largest New Year’s parties in the world. Tens of thousands of people pack the streets to enjoy live music, torch-lit processions, and fireworks. Unless you plan to take part in the festivities, it’s not an ideal time to visit Edinburgh!

10. Try local food

No visit to Scotland would be complete without a taste of its national dish – haggis .

Traditionally made with a mixture of sheep offal (heart, liver, and lungs), onions, spices, oats, and fat – all stuffed into a sheep’s stomach – it is served with ‘neeps and tatties’ (mashed turnips and mashed potatoes). You can find it on menus across the city, although modern-day recipes are rarely traditional (and the sheep’s stomach is often omitted!). Nevertheless, this is a tasty dish and perfect for giving you a warm glow to face the Edinburgh chill!

Other traditional foods to look out for are stovies (a potato dish), black pudding , and Scottish salmon . Cullen skink , a delicious soup made with smoked haddock, potatoes, and onions is also a must-try!

A less well-known Scottish delicacy is the battered sausage – a regular sausage deep-fried in crispy batter! Head over to the City Restaurant on Nicholson Street for the best-battered sausage in town. They also serve excellent fish & chips and you can also try another one of the region’s specialties – deep-fried, battered Mars Bar !

TIP: Save money by dining at pubs rather than restaurants. Many pubs sell exceptionally good food, often providing a more authentic taste of Scottish culture than many restaurants. And at a far lower cost!

If you forget to book a table for dinner, it’s still worth a visit to see if the restaurant can accommodate you. Some restaurants set aside tables specifically for walk-ins (the most notable is Dishoom, the famous Indian restaurant that originated in London) and you may also find some that will take your number and be happy to give you a call when a table becomes free.

READ ALSO: Best Traditional Dishes to Try in the UK

11. Try Scotch whisky

Not all Scottish delicacies are the edible kind – the country has two famous drinks too!

The first, of course, is Scotch whisky , for which the country is known across the world. You can learn more about its history and how it’s made at The Scotch Whisky Experience , which also includes a tasting session. Alternatively, try one of Edinburgh’s many pubs on a quiet afternoon and ask for recommendations. Most bartenders are happy to chat with you about their favorite whiskies and share a little of their history!

But there’s another Scottish beverage that you may not be quite as familiar with, and that’s Irn Bru . This carbonated soft drink contains caffeine, sugar, and 32 secret flavors. It was invented at the start of the 20th century as a replacement for beer for Glaswegian Steel Workers.

It was originally called ‘Iron Brew’ and became famous across the UK following an ad campaign that used the slogan ‘Made in Scotland, from girders’. Its name changed to Irn Bru after advertising watchdogs decided it couldn’t be called Iron Brew because it wasn’t actually brewed from iron! Nevertheless, it remains an important part of Scottish culture and is offered to children as an alternative to whisky on tours of distilleries!

TIP: If you are a whisky enthusiast, take a look at this 3-day tour leaving from Edinburgh . My husband did it a few years ago and is still talking about it as one of the best experiences ever.

READ ALSO: Scotland Whisky Tour from Edinburgh

12. Be souvenir savvy!

The most popular area for souvenir shopping is the Royal Mile , which runs from Edinburgh Castle down to Holyrood Palace and the Scottish Parliament. But the shops here are expensive. And whilst you may think you are buying genuine Scottish tartan and locally made arts and crafts, chances are you are actually taking home imported goods, mass-produced for the tourist market.

There are a couple of notable exceptions. Ragamuffin – a store situated on a corner around halfway along the Royal Mile – sells the finest quality Scottish knitwear. It’s the perfect place to buy a lasting memento of your Edinburgh visit. And for fine, authentic Scottish whisky, visit Cadenhead’s Whisky Shop . This is Scotland’s oldest independent bottler and is located just a couple of minutes further along the Royal Mile as you approach the Castle.

Alternatively, break away from the Royal Mile and check out the independent boutiques and galleries at The Arches , which can be accessed from East Market Street. You can also find cheap but high-quality woolen items and kilts at Armstrongs Vintage , a second-hand shop in the Grassmarket.

If you are visiting Edinburgh on a Sunday morning, check out Stockbridge Market . Located next to the bridge over the Water of Leith – just a 20-minute walk from Edinburgh Castle – this market sells a variety of locally made items including jewelry and hand-made soap. It’s open from 10 am to 4 pm.

13. Be smart when exchanging your money

If you need to use an ATM during your stay, opt to be charged in local currency and do not allow the machine to convert the charge to your home currency. This is because it allows the ATM provider or bank to set the exchange rate, pushing up your fees considerably.

Keep this in mind when paying by credit card as well. Every time you pay, you’ll be presented two choices – pay in your currency or in pounds sterling. Always – ALWAYS – choose to pay in pound sterling. This is one of those common – and sadly, legal – scams that can cost you a lot of money. I once lost about 16% in currency exchange at an ATM in London by choosing my own currency. Lesson learned.

Good to know: Scottish banknotes are quite distinctive and feature Scottish heroes such as poet Robert Burns and famous writer Sir Walter Scott. But don’t be surprised to be given English money during your stay in Edinburgh. Scottish and English money may look different, but they all represent the same currency, which is pounds sterling. You can use either note in both England and Scotland.

14. Be prepared for men in skirts (or kilts, to be precise)!

Originating from the plaid cloaks historically worn in highland Scotland, the modern kilt dates back to the 19th century. Also today, the kilt is sometimes worn by Scottish men.

Accompanied by a frilled shirt and pouch called a ‘sporran’ that hangs in front to replace pockets, kilts are thick pleated skirts made of wool. They usually have a tartan pattern, which traditionally represented a particular ‘clan’ or family.

These days, Scottish kilts are mainly worn for special occasions like weddings, or by busking bagpipers near the Castle. But if you’d like to take home an authentic kilt as a very special memento of your stay, head to Gordon Nicolson Kiltmakers near the Royal Mile. They’ll even show you how to wear it properly!

15. Explore the areas outside the city

Whilst Edinburgh offers plenty to do, there are also a couple of attractions a short distance from the city that are well worth a visit as well. In addition, there are lots of spectacular places in Scotland that you can visit as a day trip from Edinburgh .

TIP: This highly-rated Loch Ness, Glencoe & the Scottish Highlands Tour is the most popular day tour from Edinburgh and is well worth your time! There are also some really nice multi-day tours that allow you to see more of Scotland without having to plan much.

Just near Edinburgh are the 3 bridges of Firth of Forth : the Forth Road Bridge, The Forth Bridge, and the new Queensferry Crossing. There are various boat cruises that allow you to enjoy magnificent views of Edinburgh and Fife’s coastlines and the iconic bridges.

Alternatively, visit Rosslyn Chapel , just 7 miles south of the city. Founded in 1446, this chapel was made famous by Dan Brown’s “Da Vinci Code”, which explored its mysteries. The building is filled with strange geometric patterns which many insist are otherworldly – or alien – in design. Bizarre carvings are everywhere, believed to be symbolic in nature and giving rise to various myths and legends.

The building itself is surrounded by gorgeous scenery, making this a great and quirky place to visit away from the bustle of the capital’s center. There are also quite a few tours that visit here .

Gilmerton Cove is another interesting place near Edinburgh. It’s a very unique, 300-year-old subterranean attraction consisting of 7 underground rooms, a well, a fireplace, a blacksmith’s forge, tunnels, and even a chapel. The rooms feature furniture hewn from rocks. And the strange thing is that no one has any idea who created them, or why! Just be sure to check if it’s open because there have been talks about renovating the place.

16. Learn some local words

In addition to the very strong Scottish accent, some of the local terminology may leave you scratching your head!

Here are a few great words to learn when visiting Edinburgh:

• Haar = the chilly fog that sometimes blankets the city.
• Scran = food.
• Loch = lake.
• Law = hill.
• Burn = stream.
• Greet = cry (not say hello!).
• Kirk = church (which is why you will see kirkyards rather than churchyards throughout the city).
• Dram = a shot of whisky (or other spirit).

17. Bonus tips

• If you want to hear the sound of real bagpipes , head to the Royal Mile, particularly the end nearest the Castle. There will invariably be a busker or two in full Scottish dress entertaining the crowds. They are usually happy to pose for photos too (just remember to put a donation in the bucket or hat).
• Visiting Edinburgh Castle? Get there early and head straight to the Honours of Scotland (the crown jewels) before visiting anything else. They are the most popular part of the Castle and the queues to see them become very long throughout the day.
• Don’t offend the locals by suggesting that Scotland is part of England – they are two distinct countries. Both are, however, part of the United Kingdom, which also encompasses Wales and Northern Ireland.
• Looking for a fun night out in true Scottish style? Then find yourself a ceilidh (pronounced kay-lee)! Traditionally a highland Gaelic form of entertainment, a ceilidh is basically an evening of fiddle music, dancing, singing, and storytelling. There are opportunities to experience them all over Edinburgh.
• Use public free wifi throughout the city, with no restrictions on time. Just look for ‘EdiFreeWifi’ in your available networks and log in using either Facebook or by providing basic details.
• Whilst many hotels and attractions of Edinburgh are well equipped to accommodate wheelchairs , the cobbled streets, narrow roads, inclines, and winding staircases of the Old Town would make a visit challenging for someone with limited mobility.

So, these are some of the most important practical tips you should know when traveling to Edinburgh for the first time.

T IP: If you are wondering what to see and do in the city or how to plan a short first visit to Edinburgh , take a look at our detailed guides via the links below:

• What to see: Best things to do in Edinburgh
• With just 1 day: How to see the best of Edinburgh in one day

More travel inspiration for the UK:

• Glasgow: One Day in Glasgow
• Isle of Skye: Isle of Skye Itinerary
• Liverpool: Best Things to Do in Liverpool & Liverpool Beatles Attractions & Liverpool Day Trip from London
• Yorkshire: Best Day Trips in Yorkshire
• Manchester: Best Things to Do in Manchester & Manchester 1-Day Itinerary
• Cornwall: Best Places to Visit in Cornwall & Where to Stay in Cornwall
• Blackpool: Best Things to Do in Blackpool & Where to Stay in Blackpool

London travel inspiration:

• Tips for Visiting London
• Best Tourist Attractions in London
• Hidden Gems of London
• Best Day Trips from London
• 1 Day in London
• 2 Days in London
• Best London Views & Viewpoints
• Things to Do in Greenwich
• London with Kids
• Camden Market

If you found this post useful, don’t forget to bookmark it and share it with your friends. Are you on Pinterest? Pin this image!

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• Weekend Guide

A Luxury Guide to a Long Weekend in Edinburgh

Edinburgh was built to impress. The Scottish capital is a strutting peacock of a city boasting some of the best sightseeing in Europe.

By Katie Wood

Edinburgh was built to impress. The Scottish capital is a strutting peacock of a city boasting some of the best sightseeing in Europe. Here, in this luxury guide, you’ll find well over 1,000 years of history just waiting to bowl you over. At every corner, you’re hit by another panoramic view, interesting architectural feature or monument to Scotland’s wonderfully rich past. The charming city oozes personality, and although it’s home to the world’s largest arts festival each August, as a local I love it best in the crisp bright days of early autumn or the melancholic dark days of winter, when dusk begins at 4pm and cold Eastern winds add to its harsh beauty.

Among the city’s unique offerings are climbing its own extinct volcano; exploring the winding alleys of the medieval Old Town; and delighting in the Unesco World Heritage Site that is the New Town — which, to clarify, dates back to the mid-18th century. So, descend under the pavement on the Royal Mile to explore the hidden 17th-century world of haunted Mary King’s Close, then emerge into daylight and shops selling well-priced, quality cashmeres and fine single malts.

Where to stay

The Balmoral Scone & Crombie Suite

Located at No 1 Princes Street — the main shopping street overlooked by Edinburgh Castle — this Rocco Forte hotel is a famous city landmark, with a signature clock tower that is a key part of the city’s skyline. The rooms are palatial, and no trip to Edinburgh is complete without afternoon tea in the Palm Court and dinner in the Michelin-starred, Number One Restaurant. The top suite is the Scone & Crombie Suite — one of the finest in Scotland — which is named after a famous Perthshire palace and Crombie castle; both are well worth visiting in their own rights. The two-bedroom suite (with an option to add a third bedroom) boasts a dedicated concierge and floor-to-ceiling windows that allow panoramic views of the historic Old Town.

From $3,100 per night. Contact Siobhan Slater, reservations manager, [email protected] , +44 131 556 2414, roccofortehotels.com

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Waldorf Astoria Edinburgh – The Caledonian Alexander Graham Bell Suite

Edinburgh’s grand dame, this beautiful Victorian railway hotel is located in the heart of the West End, directly opposite the Johnnie Walker Experience, Diageo’s new five-star attraction. Two restaurants, a gym, a pool and a Guerlain Spa are among the many facilities. Hosting the largest number of direct castle-view rooms of any hotel in the city, the jewel is the Alexander Graham Bell Suite, which pays homage to the local man who invented the telephone in 1876. It sleeps three and, within its 950 sq ft, you’ll find a working vintage telephone and beautiful artwork from local artists.

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From $1,800 per night. Contact Matthew Lynn, reservations manager, [email protected] , +44 131 222 8888, waldorfastoria.com

Fingal Skerryvore Suite

For one of the city’s most unique accommodations, head to Edinburgh’s vibrant Leith waterfront, home to Fingal, Scotland’s only floating luxury hotel. Fingal was originally a lighthouse tender but is now an exquisite, 23-cabin boutique hotel and exclusive-use venue by its owners, the neighboring Royal Yacht Britannia. It recently underwent a $6m refurbishment, making it suitable for its royal pedigree. Anne, HRH the Princess Royal, in her role as Patron to the Northern Lighthouse Board, has spent time on board Fingal; her former quarters have been transformed into the magnificent Skerryvore Suite. It has a separate sitting room and private deck perfect for cocktails, and the super-king-size bed has a headboard with map contours to trace as you drift off. The restaurant serves fine Scottish cuisine, and afternoon tea and cocktails can be enjoyed in the Lighthouse Bar. From $1,500 per night.

Contact Kirsty McKee, guest relations duty manager, [email protected] , +44 131 357 5000, fingal.co.uk

Where to eat

The Kitchin

Tom Kitchin uses French techniques on the finest Scottish produce in his chic restaurant, located in a converted whisky warehouse on the historic Leith waterfront. The chef of this Michelin-starred restaurant has become a local legend due to his philosophy of ‘from nature to plate,’ which reflects his passion for championing Scottish products. Before opening his own restaurant, Kitchin trained under the world’s best chefs. Among his innovative signature dishes are rolled pig’s head with langoustines, roasted loin and braised haunch of roe deer, and salt baked neeps (turnips) with rhubarb and red wine sauce.

thekitchin.com

The Hawksmoor

If you’re longing for a succulent steak in the country that is home, of course, to the famous Aberdeen Angus, look no further. Does the prospect of chateaubriand and triple-cooked chips make your mouth water? Then you’ve found your spot. This renowned steak restaurant is located in a palatial former banking hall with Art Deco features and vintage furnishings, and the steak, seafood and decadent desserts are legendary. Go native and try the Eyemouth crab on toast to start, followed by a classic sirloin steak, served with béarnaise sauce, cream spinach and a baked potato. This is also a great venue to sample excellent local Scottish cheeses.

thehawksmoor.com

Restaurant Martin Wishart

This Michelin-starred restaurant in Leith has earned its star and its dedicated patrons by offering modern, European cuisine that combines oodles of French savvy with the finest Scottish ingredients in an elegant and formal environment. Expect dishes such as seared scallops with apple and endive salad, hare braised in red wine, and lemon tart with macerated raspberries. Restaurant Martin Wishart is known for its gourmet tasting menu, and there is also a vegetarian option available. From the amuse-bouches to the petits fours, each mouthful is a culinary triumph. His sister restaurant in the city center, The Honours, is brasserie-style, more relaxed, and also well worth a visit.

restaurantmartinwishart.co.uk

A small restaurant with a small menu, but all beautifully put together and overseen by award-winning chef Jérôme Henry, Le Roi Fou is a fantastic local gem. It’s the creative food pairing that makes this place worth a visit: Try the fabulous saffron sauce with an assortment of Scottish hand-dived Highland scallops, mussels and squid. And who ever thought of putting roasted squash and kale salad with spiced black pudding? But it works perfectly.

leroifou.com

The King’s Wark

This charming bar and restaurant on the shore in Leith serves food, including excellent fresh seafood dishes, all day. They also serve an especially good Vegetarian Haggis Wellington. The building dates back to the 1400s, when it was a royal residence and the armory of King James I. In 1613, King James VI bestowed the right to keep taverns on the site. Complete with a ghostly presence, this building has stood in the heart of Leith for almost 600 years. There’s a relaxing ambience and always a few colorful locals, and it has some of the best gastro-pub food in the capital. It is also known for its cask ales, Scottish gins, local cheeses and weekend breakfast menu.

kingswark.co.uk

Castles and palaces

The dominating 12th century Edinburgh Castle offers gory dungeons, military museums, a 12th-century chapel and an array of historic halls to explore, and you can admire Scotland’s Crown Jewels — the oldest regalia in Britain. Holyrood Palace — the Queen’s official Scottish residence — is arguably the highlight of Edinburgh. It is most famous as the 16th-century home of the ill-fated Mary, Queen of Scots. Local travel specialist Sleigh’s Scotland holds a Royal Warrant for outstanding service to the Queen, and it offers the unique opportunity to enjoy an out-of-hours private tour of the palace, including access to the private State Apartments. On the Royal Tour, you can also enjoy afternoon tea on the Royal Yacht Britannia. sleigh.co.uk

Walk the Royal Mile

There is plenty to see and do on the famed Royal Mile, so leave lots of time to explore. For a bit of history, head to St Giles’ Cathedral, which is the High Kirk of Edinburgh founded in 1124; in the 16th century it was the focal point of the Scottish Reformation. In between shops selling whisky, tartan and fine cashmeres, you will find some wonderful pubs and restaurants, with lots of street artists and performers if you come during August — the month of the Edinburgh Festivals. This is the largest arts bonanza in the world with, for many, the highlight being the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo. Two museums of note on the Royal Mile are The People’s Story, which tells the history of Edinburgh, and the Museum of Childhood — a wonderful collection of 18th-century teddy bears, beautiful dolls and early mechanical toys.

Whisky is one of the first things that come to mind when you think of Scotland. This small country has a reputation for the best whisky in the world, and there’s plenty to savor in the capital. At The Scotch Whisky Experience , you can learn how a dram is made, taste plenty of whisky and see the Diageo Claive Vidiz Collection, which is housed in a glass-and-marble vault and comprises nearly 3,400 bottles. Should you want a very special evening, you can arrange for a private five-course dinner within the vault. Nearing the bottom of the Royal Mile is The Holyrood Distillery — Scotland’s newest — which offers tours and tastings. If you wish to venture further afield, there are 120 active whisky distilleries across the country you can visit.

Scottish sights

Local writer Robert Louis Stevenson (author of Treasure Island) once said, “Edinburgh is what Paris ought to be.” Explore this historically important city and meander through the delights of medieval Old Town and to the picture-perfect Victoria Street and Grassmarket, rumored to be the inspiration for Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter series. See the elegant Georgian New Town, full of beautiful neoclassical architecture and charming streets to explore. If you’re visiting on a Sunday, don’t miss the Sunday Stockbridge Market for great food and crafts. And art lovers should visit the Scottish National Portrait Gallery and the Scottish National Gallery at the foot of The Mound. g nationalgalleries.org

Photos: John Carey, Marc Millar Photography, Visit Scotland, Rocco Forte Hotels

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The ultimate royal travel guide to Britain, from Buckingham Palace to Windsor Castle

T he British landscape is awash with royal properties, from stately palaces to historic castles. These include three of the monarch’s official royal residences; Buckingham Palace , Windsor Castle , and Edinburgh’s Palace of Holyroodhouse. 

But while these historic buildings may have the level of grandeur you might imagine when you picture the Royal family at home, in truth, royals are only ‘resident’ in these buildings on occasion. For some, they are even considered business premises – though they rather put the rest of our offices to shame. 

When it comes to days off from official business, members of the Royal family are more likely to be found in their private homes, such as the King and Queen’s Highgrove House in Gloucestershire, or the Prince and Princess of Wales’s family home of Adelaide Cottage in Windsor Home Park. 

While the private homes are exactly that – private – there are plenty of places around Britain where you can walk in the footsteps of the Royal family and get a small glimpse into their lives. Here are some of the best. 

Buckingham Palace, London

Let’s start with the most famous of all royal residences: Buckingham Palace. Elizabeth II largely regarded it as her office, spending weekdays there attending to official business before retreating to Windsor at the weekends.

Now, of course, the palace – whose origins can be traced back to the reign of King James I in the early 17 th century, but which has been the London home of British monarchs since 1837 when Queen Victoria moved in – is the King’s official London residence.

Buckingham Palace is the setting for royal and national celebrations and commemorations; who can forget catching a glimpse of Royal family members from the famous balcony? It’s also where the monarch hosts dignitaries and official banquets – on September 18 2022, the King held a reception for world leaders at the palace on the eve of his mother’s funeral.

As it is a working palace, Buckingham Palace is only open to the public at set times. For 10 weeks each summer, its grand state rooms are opened up. During this time, visitors can see the crimson-and-gold Throne Room, the Royal Mews, and the enormous Ballroom, where all those extravagant state banquets are held. In addition, there are exclusive guided tours at select dates throughout the year.

Those without a ticket or travelling at the wrong time of year can still watch the spectacle of the Changing of the Guard, which takes place outside the palace several days a week at 10.45am (weather dependent but check the schedule ). 

The ceremony has its roots in the reign of King Henry VI and sees the New Guard of soldiers – wearing the customary bearskin hats – march to Buckingham Palace from St James’s Palace and Wellington Barracks accompanied by music. They parade in front of the palace and relieve the ‘Old Guard’ (the soldiers on duty). 

If you are lucky and the King is in residence (the Royal Standard flag will be flying) then there will be an even higher number of sentries than normal taking part in the ceremony.

How to do it

Buckingham Palace (0303 123 7300) is open for 10 weeks each summer (July 14–September 24 2023). The Goring (read our review here ) has double rooms from £710 including breakfast.

Windsor Castle, Windsor

At the start of the Covid pandemic, Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip retreated to this castle on the banks of the River Thames to shield with 22 staff members in what became known as ‘HMS Bubble’. After Prince Philip’s death in April 2021, the late Queen remained at Windsor; indeed, she never spent another night at Buckingham Palace.

The castle was originally built for William the Conqueror to defend London from western approaches, but it became a royal palace under King Henry I. Subsequent monarchs extended the palace with its most ambitious makeover undertaken by King Charles II who wanted to emulate the opulence of his cousin Louis XIV’s Palace of Versailles.

As well as seeing the rich interiors of the castle, visitors can pay their respects to the late Queen by visiting her final resting place within the King George VI Memorial Chapel inside St George’s Chapel.

In 2022, the Prince and Princess of Wales moved to nearby Adelaide Cottage in Windsor Home Park with their three children – Prince George, Princess Charlotte and Prince Louis – who attend school locally. It may well be that they will eventually move into the castle itself.

Windsor Castle (0303 123 7300) is open daily (summer). Castle Hotel Windsor (read our review here ) has double rooms from £132 including breakfast.

Palace of Holyroodhouse, Edinburgh

The King’s official residence in Scotland, the Palace of Holyroodhouse is a rather grand building that sits at the opposite end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile to the castle. The palace has links with many famous figures from Scottish history – including Bonnie Prince Charlie, who set up court here in 1745 – but the person most visitors want to hear about is Mary, Queen of Scots. Her bedroom can be reached via a winding staircase in the north-west tower of the palace, and is a delight to discover with its low doorway (despite Mary being around 6ft-tall), decorative oak ceiling and painted frieze.

The reigning monarch stays at the palace every year during Holyrood Week (or Royal Week) from late June to early July. During this time they take part in the symbolic Ceremony of the Keys in which the monarch is handed the keys to the city of Edinburgh by the Lord Provost amid much pomp and ceremony.

The Palace of Holyroodhouse (0303 123 7306) is open daily July-Sept; it’s closed Tue-Wed in all other months. Cheval Old Town Chambers (read our review here ) has double rooms from £190 including breakfast.

Highgrove House, Gloucestershire

When they are not on official duties, the King and Queen love nothing better than to return to their countryside home of Highgrove in the Cotswolds. As the house is a private home, you can’t peek behind its neoclassical façade, but tours of the exquisite gardens – which Charles has dedicated himself to creating since buying the property in 1980 – are lovely. 

An experienced guide will take you through the gardens, which are a real passion project of His Majesty. You will then be led to the Ante Room, where bespoke Highgrove products – including food and drink made from produce grown here – can be bought and artworks by the King himself admired. This is all followed by cream tea in the Orchard Room, making it an idyllic way to spend an afternoon.

Highgrove is open on select dates for tours between April and September. Calcot & Spa (read the review here ) has double rooms from £364 including breakfast.

Llwynywermod, Llandovery

The Royal family also has a Welsh home. When he was Prince of Wales, Charles bought the 192-acre estate of Llwynywermod in Carmarthenshire, Wales, in 2006. Comprising a farmhouse building, where he and Camilla would regularly holiday, and three cottages, Charles soon set about renovating the house and its adjoining properties in a greener way, using locally sourced materials. 

On Charles’ ascension to the throne, the property was passed on to William, the new Prince of Wales, and Catherine, Princess of Wales, who also have a strong affection for the Welsh countryside, having spent some of the early years of their marriage living in Anglesey.

What’s special about here is that two of the cottages are available for holiday lets – North Range, for instance, is a beautiful whitewashed converted barn that sleeps six guests across three bedrooms and comes with a flagstone floor, open fire, Welsh furniture and lots of character. The smaller West Range sleeps four guests.

North Range and West Range can be booked through the Duchy of Cornwall (01579 346 473) and cost from £1,225 per week.

Balmoral, Aberdeenshire

Elizabeth II spent her final weeks in Balmoral and this palace in the Highlands was reputedly her favourite home. 

She is not the only royal to have felt an affinity for the place. Queen Victoria, who fell in love with the Highlands during her very first visit in 1842, was the first monarch to call it home. She and Albert loved to escape public life here, embarking on expeditions incognito through the Highlands. 

The late Queen spent every summer at Balmoral (August–October) and she would regularly be joined by other members of the Royal family. When the monarch is not in residence, the site is open to visitors. 

Although you can only see a small section of the castle’s interiors – including the ballroom where Ghillies Balls have historically been held – it’s the majestic setting amid acres of greenery with views across to the Cairngorms that makes a visit here worthwhile. 

The Royal family are considered locals in the nearby village of Ballater and are regularly seen attending services at nearby Crathie Kirk. Indeed in April 2023, Charles and Camilla surprised residents by making an unexpected visit to a new fishmongers and restaurant in the village during a pre-Coronation holiday at Balmoral.

Balmoral (01339 742 534) is open for pre-booked self-guided tours every summer (1 April to 16 Aug 2023). The Fife Arms (read the review here ) has double rooms from £250 including breakfast.

Read more about where the Royal family like to holiday here .

Sandringham, Norfolk

The Royal family traditionally spends Christmas at the sprawling estate of Sandringham. The private country retreat has been a popular haunt since 1862, when the Jacobean house was built for King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra while Edward’s mother was still on the throne.

It was also a favourite of King Charles III’s grandfather, King George VI, and great-grandfather, King George V, who both died here. The house and gardens are a joy to explore. Norfolk is also where Anmer Hall, another of William and Catherine’s homes, is located.

Sandringham (01485 544 112) is open Sat-Thu (summer). The Brisley Bell (read the review here ) has double rooms from £133 including breakfast.

Royal Yacht Britannia, Edinburgh

Until 1997 the Royal family would take annual holidays around Scotland’s Western Isles aboard the Royal Yacht Britannia . After the yacht was decommissioned, it was docked in the seaside Edinburgh suburb of Leith in Edinburgh and has since become one of Scotland’s most popular attractions.

A tour of the yacht allows you to peer into the bedroom that Queen Elizabeth II slept in while on board and reveals a glimpse of what life in the Royal family is like when the eyes of the world are not upon them. The late Queen clearly missed her days on board; after the yacht was no longer available to her, she chartered the Hebridean Princess , which offers small-ship cruises, on two separate occasions for special celebrations.

The Royal Yacht Britannia (0131 555 5566) is open daily (summer). Fingal (read the review here ) is a luxurious floating hotel nearby. It has double rooms from £300 including breakfast. The Hebridean Princess (01756 704 704) offers cruises from March to November with prices from £4,420pp for seven nights).

Read more about the travels of Elizabeth II here .

Kensington Palace, London

This west London mansion was the beloved home of Princess Diana and both the Diana Memorial Fountain and the Diana Memorial Playground can be found in its gardens. Apartment 1a is still the London pad of the Prince of Wales and his family. 

For many years, Kensington was known for the magnificent balls that were held across its ornate interconnected rooms and began in the late 17 th century during the era of King William and Mary. The already grandiose interiors were later added to by the Georgians when Kensington became the hub of high society. Elaborate decoration, such as the painted walls around the King’s Staircase which features many characters from George I’s court, were also added. 

As well as standard tours of the palace, regular exhibitions draw on its rich history, telling the stories of past and present royals in new and dynamic ways. Victoria: A Royal Childhood tells the story of one of the palace’s most famous residents. Queen Victoria was born here and the exhibition includes personal items such as her doll house. Other rolling exhibitions let visitors see precious items from the palace’s archive; often including iconic outfits worn by various members of the Royal family.

Kensington Palace (0333 320 6000) is open Wed–Sun (summer).  Baglioni (read the review here ), opposite Kensington Gardens, has double rooms from £494 including breakfast.

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