trek multitrack 930

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Trek 930 1998 Bike 1998 or Older

• USER REVIEWS

CR-MO frame, nice flex, solid Relatively easy to upgrade frame with higher-end components

NOS components are becoming harder to find, particularly higher-end rim brake rims

I bought my 94 Trek 930 new in 1995, and have logged thousands of road miles on it; I truly wouldn't trade it for a new Trek! Over the years I have upgraded the components. My 930's XT 44x34x24 crank will allow me to stay with most road bikes that aren't hell-bent-for-leather, and the lower gears have never disappointed me, even with fairly hefty cargo on hills. My 930 is very nimble, and is quite comfortable on longer rides. The steel frame may be a tad heavy to some, but I find that it accelerates swiftly, has a nice flex to it over rough spots, yet it is very stable on fast descents. I can't really speak to my bike's performance on serious trail riding, as most of my riding is on pavement/dirt roads/and trails that don't cause the surgeon who did my knee replacements sleepless nights. I log a good many miles on ice and snow in our Massachusetts winters, and my trusty 930 has always kept me out of trouble-heck, over the years it's been ridden through at least 6 bonafide blizzards! My 930's green to purple fade paint has held up very well with a weekly buffing with Pedro's Bike Lust, and it does receive a good number of compliments, usually from older riders like myself who appreciate the quality of a well-made vintage Trek. Apart from the fact that replacement parts for this year Trek are becoming harder to find, I would enthusiastically recommend this bike as a hidden gem you might run across in someone's yard sale. Don't think you'll be disappointed! Younger riders might be put off with a 3x8 gearing, rim brakes instead of disc, CR-MO frame, and such, but I'm tellin' ya this bike is a lot of bang for the money!

light, smooth, sturdy, longevity

Got this bike used for $60. Awesome ride. Can't believe how great it rides given it is 17 years old. Only thing I changed is the handlebar to Race Face lowriser for comfort. Mainly use for commuting but reckon it will fare fine on trails in UK. Used higher spec bikes like Santa Cruz and Turner for big California rides of course. Cannot speak enough about how much fun this bike is. I just now leave my G Fisher Big Sur sitting in the garage. If you can find one of these used, grab it. Huge fan of vintage 90s bikes!!!

Similar Products Used:

Santa Cruz Heckler, Turner 5 spot, GF Big Sur, GF Marlin,

Bombproof frame, unbreakable components,Light weight,Handling, Shock absorption (for a rigid bike)

Nothing that i know of

Found it sitting in my landlords basement missing a rear wheel. I looked up and it turned out to be the '96 model with the distinctive green to purple fade paintjob, Yay!. Got it for free in almost new condition :) put a rear wheel, cleaned and lubed everything. I have put in around 1500 miles during my 2 years of college with no problems, not even a squeak! Recently upgraded to rapidfire thumb shifters with 8 speeds and some road tires and it can stay with almost any bike on the road. Soon I will be upgrading to some trick carbon parts and some nice wheels. Gonna keep it forever!

I have a 1990's 930 singletrack with some mods. Its a great bike.

If I could find a other one, I would buy it keep'em treking

Rock solid frame and superb ride.

None that come to mind.

Superb bike that won't let it's rider down.

As long as I have had my Trex 930, I've had no problems with it. I probably put on about 400 miles a yrs, if not more. I make sure to get an annual tune-up done to keep the bike in good riding condition. Seems to be working, because I love it.

awsome bike! wouldn't trade it for the world.

good dependable frame. this one came with rock shox, i don't know if that was added. Good gears and pretty light. Great for weekend mb trails or hardcore as well.

no travel whatsoever.

Bottom line is I love this bike. There is a lot of chatter though when riding trails. I would not recommend using it for the road because it has no travel, so you wouldn't want to ride it on the road for a long distance. Great mb, very durable and handles jumps very well.

Giant-yukon

Light Frame for being steel, Does well up steep hill for being ten years old, Brake system especially on the come down. Keeps up with road bikes that are not pro riders

replaced saddle, Only thing is that the components are aged and sometimes they hesitate up steep hill gear changing. other than than Bike is sweet.

bottom line is thumbs up Trex on this bike...

Can't beat $30 for a mint 930 Single Track w/new lightweight tires! Looks like it's hardly ever been ridden. I will overhaul it anyway -- cuz I'm anal that way -- but I'm betting that with some new high-pressure hybrid tires (next year, after I wear out the already new 65-PSI lightweight off-road tires -- it's make a sweet all-purpose trail rider / commuter. And I thought my $35 Trek 830 Antelope was a good deal... I'm riding these as I tear down a minty-fresh, hand-made Dawes Galaxy (British, circa 1970) that I found at a yard sale for $5. (Not a typo). If I could only find similarly priced used cars!

Have to true the front wheel...

Pretty much the deal of the century...

Trek 830, Fuji Boulevard XC, etc.

Solid ride, great downhill with little effort. Used it in an off road triathlon and flew downhill, good control uphill and on rocks.

Replaced grips and found a more comfortable seat.

Love this bike! Handles very well. Am an average size woman riding a men's frame. I like the basic style and have had no problems shifting.

First MTB purchase; used a Giant prior to that.

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Mid to late 90's Trek 9xx series (930,950,970,990).............

• Add to quote

Why don't they have a cool factor to them? I mean they are good ol' American made True Temper steel frames right? They offer a great ride, hard to kill, and spec'd nicely for their time. Is it more or less because they come from a large manufacturer and not a boutique builder? I mean I know the welds look like crap but I can't see them when I ride so that doesn't bother me. I don't see a lot of them pop up here either restored or modernized so I was just curious. Any thoughts?  

^Pretty sure 1991 was the 1st year they went to 1-1/8.  

blak_byke said: I see where you're coming from. For me, It's my IBOC ZERO-G. For the masses it was another 'dime a dozen' bike but for me it was my first mountain bike....A MONGOOSE! My previous bike was a Mongoose Supergoose that my Pop's bought me. So for me, it's like having a little piece of him. I keep building it up but keep feeling feeling like NAAAAH, not the right build. It's a sentimental thing. I know, I'm a softy Click to expand...

Rumpfy has it bad for STX SE, though...he's the first to admit it...  

Nice bike. I love the color. It looks like the fork isn't fried so if it works you might as well ride it. That said, if you picked up a rigid Big Fork and spray bombed it black it would look pretty good.  

I realize that this is a ridiculously old post, but what riser bar is that? After a decade away, I'm just getting back into riding, and have both a mid to late-nineties Trek Jetta and Gary Fisher Aquila that I need to put into service.  

daytonadogie said: View attachment 1119118 Click to expand...

Figure this should be posted here. Early 90's Trek Singletrack action! Totally rad.  

Thank you Sir. Well, it turns out I was at my LBS yesterday, saw they had the RTP's and decided to buy them and figure it out from there... They fit & look great on the stock rims, even on the stock fork. Ultimately, I want to go tubeless with them, so I have some work to do finding/building up a wheelset for such. Is that the Exotic CF fork on your bike? I have one on a Kestrel CSX, which this 970 build is replacing. I may switch it to the 970 as I like how it creates a more upright riding position & gives me some extra steerer tube to work with, as compared to the stock fork. I am a bit torn between the aesthetics of the stock fork vs. the function of the Exotic though. Here's my new project coming together, going to try out the swept back bars but will probably ultimately stick w/ the trekking bars I've grown accustomed to. Thanks again for the response and this thread gave me the encouragement to jump in headfirst on my build project!  

Attachments

^multiple 6 pack holders. I like your style sir😁  

Nice! Custom disc brake mounts? Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk  

blak_byke said: Why don't they have a cool factor to them? Any thoughts? Click to expand...

Same with anyone the has ridden a klein!!! $H!T 101!!!!  

Actually...the real answer (or what I feel to be the reason), is that there's nothing special about them. Dime a dozen. Not collectible, not hard to get....and if you've ever spent time on some of the nicer bikes from the era....that Trek is not really something people actively seek out to restore or upgrade. A lot of us got into 'VRC' because the bikes we lusted after are more affordable to us now. I didn't pine through the pages of MBA dreaming of a Trek 930. I had to buy an entry level Stumpjumper. But now that I'm older....I went for the Ritchey P-23 I always wanted. I went for the decked out Yeti. I hunted for the Salsa.  

Because their owners are generally pains in the ass. See: "turn an old trek 850 into cyclocross" bike thread. Click to expand...

momosgarage said: I am so sorry blak_byke, my name has been invoked and your thread is now condemned to not recieve any answers to your actual question. Click to expand...

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Bike    •    Directory

1990 Trek 930 Singletrack Bike | Specs, Details and Reviews

MICHAEL SCOTT    •    23 Jan 2024    •    Comments

930 Singletrack

Discover the Trek 930 Singletrack, a classic 1990s American mountain bike. Renowned for its robust craftsmanship, this vintage gem offers a blend of comfort, durability, and reliable performance. Perfect for enthusiasts of traditional bike designs, it's a testament to the enduring quality of an era.

• Category: Bike, Hardtail
• Price: $225
• Frame: True Temper OX Comp triple butted Cro-moly;
• Fork: Rock Shox Quadra 10
• Hubs: Shimano STX - 135mm
• Spokes: 32, 14-gauge DT stainless steel, 3 cross
• Classic 1990s American craftsmanship
• Durable and comfortable design
• Reliable gears and brakes
• Good tire tread life remaining
• Solid handling characteristics
• Tyres arent great offroad
• A little heavy and slow

The Trek 930 Singletrack, a vintage mountain bike from the 1990s, stands out for its classic American craftsmanship and robust design. This particular model, with its 26\" wheels and a 20.5\" frame, is well-suited for riders who appreciate the blend of comfort and durability offered by traditional bike designs. Its current condition reflects a history of use but also care; it has no breaks or dents, yet it shows the expected signs of wear such as scuffs, scratches, and some light rust.

Functionally, the bike remains reliable. The gears and brakes are in working order, which is crucial for both safety and performance. The tires, although showing signs of age with flaking gumwalls, still have a decent lifespan left. However, the back tire does have a slow leak, indicating a need for either a new inner tube or a patch, a minor setback in the grand scheme of things.

The bike's handling characteristics are described as very solid, an attribute that many riders look for in a mountain bike. Its weight, around 29 pounds, is fairly standard for bikes of its era and build, providing a stable and grounded riding experience. The missing plastic bottom of one gear shifter, while noted, does not affect the bike's functionality, demonstrating the robustness of its design.

For potential buyers, the seller's commitment to proper packing and shipping is reassuring, especially with the offer to refund any difference if the shipping cost is less than anticipated. However, the note about higher shipping costs to California, Alaska, or Hawaii, and shipping only on Wednesdays are logistical considerations to keep in mind.

Trek 930 Singletrack Specifications

• Rims: Matrix Single Track Comp
• Tires: Trek Control Track system, 26 x 2.1
• Derailleurs: Shimano STX, Shimano STX Rapid-Fire Plus shifters
• Chain: Shimano Hyperglide
• Crankset: Shimano STX, Shimano STX steel rings, 175 mm crankarms
• Bottom bracket: Shimano Cartridge
• Freewheel: Shimano 7-speed cassette
• Brakes: Shimano STX
• Pedals: Trek System 1 - nylon clips - nylon straps
• Headset: Dia-Comp Aheadset, 1 1/8 Oversize
• Seatpost: Trek System 1 6061 T6 alloy, 300 mm
• Saddle: Trek System 2 Gel
• Handlebars: Trek System 2 6061 T6 alloy,
• Stem: Trek System 2 Cro-Moly 14cm,
• Bar Ends: Trek System 1
• Weight: 29 lbs
• Wheelbase: 106.68 cm
• Seat Tube: 49.53 cm
• Top Tube: 58.42 cm
• Head angle: 71 deg
• Seat Angle: 73.5 deg
• Chainstay Length: 42.8 cm
• Bottom Bracket Height: 29.84 cm
• Fork Rake: 3.81 cm

More Images of the Trek 930 Singletrack Bike

About This Bike - Trek Singletrack 930

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Vintage Trek Catalogs

Table of Contents

Here you can find all the Trek catalogs from 1976 up to 1999. If you’re looking for a specific model for a specific year, you can find them further in the article.

Trek Catalogs

• Trek Catalog 1976
• Trek Catalog 1977
• Trek Catalog 1978
• Trek Catalog 1979
• Trek Catalog 1980
• Trek Catalog 1981
• Trek Catalog 1982
• Trek Catalog 1983-1
• Trek Catalog 1983-2
• Trek Catalog 1984
• Trek Catalog 1985All-Terrain
• Trek Catalog 1985Trek2000
• Trek Catalog 1985TrekRacing
• Trek Catalog 1985TrekSport
• Trek Catalog 1985TrekTouring
• Trek Catalog 1986
• Trek Catalog 1987
• Trek Catalog 1988
• Trek Catalog 1989
• Trek Catalog 1990
• Trek Catalog 1991
• Trek Catalog 1992
• Trek Catalog 1993
• Trek Catalog 1994
• Trek Catalog 1995
• Trek Catalog 1996
• Trek Catalog 1997
• Trek Catalog 1998
• Trek Catalog 1999

History and Iconic Models

Trek started out in 1975 by providing only frames. In 1976 they would supply entire bicycles.

For many people Trek is most famous for sponsoring Lance Armstrong’s U.S. Postal team during the late 90’s up to his retirement.

But Trek already pioneered the use of carbon fiber in 1989 with the Trek 5000.

It would result in the short-lived but daring design of the Y-Foil, introduced in 1998. One of the few bikes that is designated with something more than just a number.

They were also early adopters of the mountain bike craze, with the Trek 850 launched in 1983.

Their early foray in using carbon fiber would be later used with the introduction of the iconic Y33 and Y22 models. Mountain bikes with a monocoque carbon fiber frame. Although it used the suspension technique URT ( unified rear triangle ) which would turn out to be rubbish, the original design was considered iconic.

If you’re interested in learning more about vintage Trek bicycles, please visit vintage-trek.com .

Trek Models

Mountain bike, you might also like.

Vintage GT Catalogs

Here you can find a selection of GT catalogs from 1990 up to 1998. If you’re looking for a specific model for a specific year,

Vintage Kona Catalogs

Here you can find all the Kona catalogs from 1989 up to 1999. If you’re looking for a specific model for a specific year, you can

Vintage Giant Catalogs

Unfortunately I was only able to find a couple of Giant catalogs. Although it’s a huge bicycle brand, finding the Giant catalogs proved to be

Vintage Cannondale Catalogs

Here you can find all the Cannondale catalogs from 1983 up to 1999.  If you’re looking for a specific model for a specific year, you

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Trek 830 Review

September 20, 2023

‍ Key Takeaways

• The Trek 830 has a versatile design for both on and off-road adventures.
• Its durable frame construction ensures long-lasting performance.
• The Trek 830 has significantly shaped the biking industry since its launch.

This article may contain affiliate links where we earn a commission from qualifying purchases.

‍ Finding the perfect off-road companion just got easier. Dive into our Trek 830 Review to uncover the rugged bike built for your wildest trails.

The Trek 830 offers sturdy construction and reliable performance, making it a popular option among riders who want a dependable, long-lasting bike that can handle rugged terrain. It’s a solid choice for those looking to embark on off-road adventures.

With years of expertise in the cycling industry, I understand the importance of reliable information when purchasing a new bike. Drawing from my own experiences and the collective knowledge of riders who have owned or tested the Trek 830, I offer a trustworthy account of this mountain bike, ensuring that you can decide whether this is the right bicycle for you.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

‍ ‍ ‍ Overview of the Trek 830

The Trek 830 is a popular mountain bike known for its durability and versatile riding capabilities. Over the years, it has received numerous positive reviews from riders who have used it on various terrains, proving its worth as a reliable bicycle for beginner and intermediate riders.

It stands out as a good mountain bike for those who seek a reliable and sturdy option for light off-roading and urban usage. Its 21-speed configuration and suspension fork provide smooth shifting and handling on different terrains.

Moreover, the bulletproof frame has remained popular for riders who value durability . Its drivetrain and chain rings help transfer power to the bike’s wheels.

Design and Structure

When delving into the Trek 830 review, one cannot overlook the significance of its design and structure. A bicycle's design and construction are pivotal in determining its performance, comfort, and suitability for various terrains.

In this section, we’ll thoroughly analyze the Trek 830's frame materials, suspension, wheels and tires to understand how they contribute to its versatility and reliability on urban streets and off-road trails.

The Trek 830 is known for its sturdy steel frame, which offers significant durability. It has been designed to withstand years of regular use, and many users have reported that their Trek 830 still functions well even after decades of use.

The construction of the frame contributes to the bike's stability, allowing the rider to have confidence in its ability to handle different types of terrain and conditions.

Regarding suspension, the Trek 830 features a front suspension fork. This component helps smoothen the ride while navigating rough trails or uneven surfaces.

Although it may not have the advanced technology found in some modern mountain bikes, the front suspension is still effective in providing a comfortable riding experience.

Wheel and Tires

The wheels, rims, and tires of the Trek 830 are designed for mountain biking, granting the rider better traction and control on various surfaces. The bike originally comes with 26-inch wheels, widely considered reliable and suitable for rough terrains and gravel roads.

The tires are suitable for off-road adventures and can be replaced with slicker tires for a smoother ride on paved surfaces.

Key Features

In this section, we’ll discuss the key features of the Trek 830 mountain bike. We’ll cover aspects like grip shifts and controls, forks and pedals, and shocks and brakes.

Grip Shifts and Controls

The Trek 830 features 21-speed grip shifts that provide better control and smooth shifting across various terrains. These grip shifts are positioned on the handlebars and are made for a comfortable and easy-to-use shifting experience.

With its reliable Shimano components and relaxed geometry,  cyclists can trust this bike for smooth control and performance.

Fork and Pedals

The bike includes a suspension fork that enhances the ride quality and, while not the most advanced, still does an adequate job of absorbing bumps and shocks from rough terrain. This fork from Rock Shox provides a good balance between stability and comfort on surfaces like rocky or loose tracks.

As for the pedals, they are durable and designed to handle various off-road challenges without compromising the rider's safety.

Shocks and Brakes

Although the Trek 830 has a somewhat basic suspension system, it still offers a decent level of shock absorption for a pleasurable riding experience. The bike's suspension and sturdy frame allow riders to roll smoothly on tough terrains.

Also, the Trek 830 is equipped with efficient brakes that offer dependable and responsive braking in different conditions for reliable stopping power. This feature helps ensure riders' safety and enables them to have more control over their ride.

Riding Experience

Now, let’s discuss the riding experience of the Trek 830, focusing on trail riding and road as well as city commuting. As an avid cyclist, I’ve ridden the Trek 830 in various conditions and terrains, and I'll share my thoughts on how it performs.

Trail Riding

When it comes to trail riding, the Trek 830 holds its ground quite well. The bike's sturdy frame, fenders, and suspension fork allow it to tackle dirt trails, loose rocks, and mud. However, it may not be the best choice for tackling more technical trails or extreme off-road conditions.

Road and City Commuting

The Trek 830 also shines as a road and city commuter bike. With its 21 speeds, riders can easily navigate various terrains, including a greenway and campus. The bike's durability ensures it can withstand the wear and tear of daily use, ensuring it can remain in good shape for an extended period.

This bike should be adjusted and tuned to perform well in commuting, making it a versatile choice for cyclists seeking off-road and urban adventures.

Purchase and Sale

In this section, we'll discuss purchasing and selling the Trek 830 Antelope mountain bike. We'll explore its price, available deals, and customer experiences.

Price and Available Deals

The Trek 830 Antelope is a popular mountain bike that has been enjoyed by riders for decades. Due to the age of the bike, it may not be readily available for purchase in stores or from the original manufacturer.

However, you can often find the Trek 830 Antelope for sale on platforms like Craigslist and other second-hand marketplaces. The price of the bike will vary depending on factors such as its condition, upgrades, and possible rust.

Additionally, as with other used products, be prepared to negotiate prices when looking to purchase or sell the Trek 830.

Customer Experiences

Many owners of the Trek 830 Antelope have praised its durability, mentioning that it's well-suited for various terrain and activities. One user posted that he has had the bike since 1995, and at age 40 , it still rides smoothly and is in good condition. He even plans on passing it down to his daughter.

Another customer who purchased their Trek 830 Antelope in 1992 reports that the bike can still be ridden normally despite using it to transport heavy-duty cargo in its racks. This durability speaks to the quality and excellent condition of the bike's frame, making it a great option for those who need a sturdy, reliable ride.

When considering upgrades, some owners have replaced components such as the saddle or other parts over time. Keep in mind that the Trek 830 Antelope is no longer in production, so sourcing replacement parts in great condition may require some searching.

Nevertheless, the bike's overall quality and performance have earned it positive reviews and a loyal following among its users.

Comparison with Other Models

If you're considering the Trek 830 mountain bike, it's important to know how it compares with other models within its class. In this section, we'll explore some key differences and similarities between the Trek 830 and other popular mountain bikes available in the USA market.

Here's a brief comparison table comparing the Trek 830 with other prominent models in its class:

Keep in mind that prices and features may vary depending on the specific model year and retailer. Make sure to compare the most up-to-date information before making a final decision.

The Trek 830 provides a reliable option for those who want a durable and affordable bike. However, riders looking for a more advanced seat tube or a lighter frame material may prefer exploring other options like those mentioned above.

The Trek 830: A Classic Mountain Bike That Shaped the Industry

The Trek 830 is a classic mountain bike that has earned a reputation as a reliable, durable, and versatile bicycle. Launched in the early 1990s, this bike helped shape the mountain biking industry as it evolved from a fledgling sport into the global phenomenon it is today.

In this section, we’ll explore the history and impact of Trek 830, with a focus on how it set the stage for the development of modern mountain bike technology.

The Trek 830 offered a diverse range of cycling experiences by providing a 21-speed system for tackling different terrains and showcased reliable shifting and admirable performance.

This versatility helped the Trek 830 become popular for riders of various skill levels and interests. Moreover, its accessible design and competitive price point played a vital role in expanding the sport of mountain biking by making it more approachable and enjoyable for beginners who have decided to embrace biking.

Through its innovative design and unmatched durability, the Trek 830 has left a lasting impact on the mountain biking industry. Its legacy can be seen in the advanced technology, materials, and designs used in modern mountain bikes today, for which the Trek 830 helped pave the way.

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About THE AUTHOR

Danny Lawson

Mountain biking is more than just a hobby for me - it's a way of life. I love the challenge and excitement that comes with it, and I'm always pushing myself to go faster and ride harder. Some people might think that mountain biking is dangerous, but I see it as the only way to live.

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About PedalChef

PedalChef is a blog on all things cycling. We are a group of people who love bikes, and we want to share the joy that comes with the experience. You can read more about us here .

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Unleashing the Adventure: Multitrack Trek 730

Alright, let’s kick this off with a tale that’ll have you itching for adventure. Picture this: the sun setting over a rugged trail, the air filled with a crisp, earthy scent. That’s the kind of magic a Multitrack Trek 730 can bring to your life.

Table of Contents

The Evolution of Multitrack Series

Now, before we dive headfirst into the Multitrack Trek 730, let’s take a quick trip down memory lane. The Multitrack series has been turning heads and conquering trails for years. What sets them apart? It’s all about that perfect blend of ruggedness and comfort.

Design and Build

When it comes to the Multitrack Trek 730, they’ve nailed the design game. The frame, crafted with precision, strikes a balance between robust and lightweight. It’s like the Goldilocks of bike frames – just right. Plus, the ergonomic features? It’s like they custom-made it for you.

Versatility at Its Core

Alright, here’s the real kicker. The Multitrack Trek 730 isn’t just a one-trick pony. It’s your ticket to adventure, no matter where you want to go. Concrete jungles? Easy. Rugged, untamed trails? It eats ’em up for breakfast. Trust me, I’ve taken this baby everywhere from the bustling streets of New York to the serene trails of the Rockies.

Smooth Sailing on Urban Roads

City commuters, this one’s for you. The Multitrack Trek 730 handles urban chaos like a boss. It’s got all the bells and whistles you need for a seamless ride through the cityscape. Trust me, weaving through traffic has never been this much fun.

Conquering Off-Road Trails

Now, let’s talk dirt. This bike is a beast when it comes to off-road adventures. I’ll never forget the time I took it on a rocky trail that seemed like it was straight out of a movie. The 730? It handled it like a champ. Bumps, twists, turns – it took it all in stride.

Gearing up for Adventure

Gearheads, rejoice! The Multitrack Trek 730 boasts a top-notch gear system. Shifting is smooth as butter, which means you can focus on the thrill of the ride. Trust me, it’s a game-changer when you’re facing steep inclines or speedy descents.

Braking System: Safety First

Now, let’s talk about safety. The braking system on the 730 is nothing short of impressive. When you hit those brakes, you can practically feel the bike saying, “Gotcha, buddy!” It’s a reassuring feeling, especially when you’re cruising at high speeds.

Comfort on the Long Haul

Ever embarked on a long-distance ride and felt like your body was staging a mutiny? With the Multitrack Trek 730, that’s a thing of the past. The saddle, the handlebars – they’ve got your back (and your backside). I’ve gone on rides that stretched for hours, and trust me, comfort was never an issue.

Maintenance Made Easy

Now, let’s talk about the less glamorous side of biking: maintenance. The 730 keeps things simple. Basic maintenance tasks are a breeze, which means you can spend more time on the road and less time tinkering in the garage. It’s a win-win situation.

Community and Camaraderie

You know what’s even better than riding solo? Sharing the road with a community of fellow enthusiasts. The Multitrack Trek 730 has a fan base that’s as passionate as they come. I’ve met some incredible folks on my journeys, all brought together by a shared love for this exceptional bike.

The Price Tag: Is It Worth It?

Alright, let’s talk turkey. Is the Multitrack Trek 730 worth the investment? In my book, absolutely. When you tally up the adventures, the comfort, and the sheer joy it brings, it’s worth every penny.

So there you have it, folks. The Multitrack Trek 730 isn’t just a bike; it’s an experience waiting to happen. Whether you’re zipping through the city or tackling the wildest trails, this baby’s got your back. So what are you waiting for? It’s time to unleash the adventure.

Unique FAQs After The Conclusion

1. Q: Can the Multitrack Trek 730 handle extreme weather conditions? – A: Absolutely! Its durable build can withstand a variety of weather conditions, but it’s always a good idea to give it some TLC after particularly harsh rides.

2. Q: Is it suitable for beginners? – A: While it’s versatile, it’s best suited for riders with some experience. If you’re a newbie, start with some practice on easier terrains.

3. Q: Can I customize the bike to my liking? – A: Yes, indeed! There’s a wide range of accessories and customization options available to make it truly yours.

4. Q: How’s the customer support from Multitrack? – A: From my experience, their customer support is top-notch. They’re responsive and always ready to assist with any queries or concerns.

5. Q: What’s the warranty policy? – A: It’s always best to check with the official website or your local dealer for the most up-to-date information on warranties.

• Official Multitrack Trek 730 Product Page This link will direct readers to the official product page for the Multitrack Trek 730, where they can find detailed specifications and additional information about the bike.
• Multitrack Trek Community Forum This link leads to a community forum dedicated to Multitrack bike enthusiasts. Readers can engage in discussions, share experiences, and connect with fellow riders.

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Table 2 - TUBING TENSILE STRENGTH AND YIELD STRENGTH*

* Most of the information in Tables 1 and 2 was extracted from Jalon Hawk's DesperadoCycles.com web site. Included at his site is Jalon's excellent write up of the geometry and physical properties of the various tubings and what it all means.

** Tubeset weight is not consistent among tubing manufacturers. The length of some of the tubes in a set is different between makers as is the length of butted sections. As a result, the total tubeset weights are not indicative of the relative weight of the resulting bike.

HELICOMATIC HUBS

Trek used Maillard Helicomatic rear hubs on some road bike Models in the mid 80s. They were a clever French innovation using a special cassette (of cogs) that mounts onto a special hub. Great idea, but poorly engineered and tested; they proved to be unreliable. For more information, see Sheldon Brown's comments at http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ha-i.html#helicomatic and at The Yellow Jersey http://www.yellowjersey.org/helico.html .

What to do if you have one on your Trek and it no longer works, or you want a more reliable setup? People often replace the Helicomatic hub/wheel with a freewheel wheel or freehub wheel. If they are concerned about originality, they keep their original wheel and work to find a replacement for the hub or cassette. They show up occasionally on Ebay.com.

Vintage Trek bikes were originally painted with DuPont Imron paint. Imron is a two part paint that is difficult to use by other than professional painters. Imron is still available from DuPont. Some frame painters still use it today. However, some localities have clean air regulations that prohibit its use.

Classic Rendezvous provides a list of expert bike frame painters and refinishers. Desperado Cycles uses Imron as do Joe Bell Bicycle Refinishing , Rad Finishes and Spectrum Cycles . If you know of other painters who do, please let me know .

Many of the Imron colors used by Trek are still available. Trek generally used the same Imron color name as did DuPont, so it often is possible to match the original color. The Joe Bell Bicycle Refinishing web site has a PDF copy of the Imron color chart on its site.

For many years, Trek had a service to repaint an old Trek for an owner or bike shop. It would not reproduce the original colors and graphics, but used the then current year graphics and colors. This way, a bike might have been made in one year but have paint and graphics from a later year. The repaint service was discontinued around 2010.

TREK DECALS

One source of reproduction Trek decals is VeloCals.com . Here are examples of reproduction Trek graphics made by VeloCals . You can contact JR Anderson of VeloCals at [email protected] .

PAINT TOUCH UP

Because the paint used on Vintage Treks, Imron, is a two-part paint, it is difficult to use for touchup. Many serious bike collectors use Testor's paint. It comes in little bottles and spray cans. It is used for car and airplane models and can be found at hobby shops in lots of colors. If you can't find a match, mix a couple of colors together.

Richard Kaufman writes: "Testor's "Model Master" Enamel Paint in FRENCH BLUE is a virtual match for the Dupont Imron "Race Blue" on my '85 Trek 600. No mixing with other colors required, in my opinion."

Car paint touch up paint also works fine. Get it at a car parts store or car dealer. The bottle comes with its own paintbrush. Color matching can take a bit of work, you may need to mix two or more bottles.

Others have had good luck with fingernail polish, red bikes are especially good for this but, depending on the latest fashion, other colors work as well.

Another option is take the bike to a specialty shop that sells auto paints (not just an auto body shop). They will scan the paint on the bike and mix a perfect match. They can give you the paint in a jar or can put it in a spray bottle. It is a bit pricey; on the order of $60.

THREADING THE DERAILLEUR CABLE THROUGH THE CHAINSTAY

Trek ran the rear derailleur cable through the right chainstay for most of their steel road bikes beginning in 1985 and ending in 1989. A clever idea - that has its supporters and detractors. However, cleverness is also required when replacing the cable. Rich Tong's "Tong Family Blog" lists some helpful methods.

INTERNAL RUSTPROOFING OF A FRAME

Unlike some other frame materials, a steel frame does not degrade through normal use or simply through age. However, if a steel bike is ridden in the rain or is kept outdoors, rust on the inside surfaces of the frame tubing can be a problem. A way to check if your frame has been damaged by rust is to remove the bottom bracket and look at the bottom bracket shell and the tubes. Some rust is normal, but lots of rust or significant pitting can be a problem.

To prevent, or significantly reduce, internal rusting, people spray the inside of the tubes with a rust preventative. Two excellent products are "Frame Saver" by J. Peter Weigle and "Boeshield T-9" developed by Boeing. Frame Saver dries to a wax-like coating. It is available at most pro bike shops and over the web. Boeshield T-9 is a protectant and lubricant; it stays oily. Which to use? Peter Weigle is a custom frame maker (support a fellow bike guy). Boeing makes lots of great things that fly, but I believe bikes are not included . . .

People also use LPS 3, a heavy-duty rust inhibitor, which leaves a transparent waxy film. It is commonly available at hardware stores in spray cans.

A simple solution is to spray the insides with WD-40 penetrating oil. It dries to a thin, varnish-like coating that protects the metal. Not quite as good as the three products above, but much better than nothing at all. (BTW - because of this drying characteristic, WD-40 should not be used as a long-term lubricant.)

The rustproofing products above generally do not require removing the rust inside the frame tubes before applying. However, cleaning the inside of the bottom bracket and the headtube of loose rust is a good idea. To treat, remove the bottom bracket, headset and seat post. Spray into every opening in the frame, including the vent holes in the stays. Then, I like to tape over the openings and rotate the frame slowly a few times in various directions, to be sure that all internal surfaces are soaked. Remove the tape and let the excess run out. For the waxy coating types, and WD-40, it it best to allow a day or two drying time before reassembling.

CONVERTING FROM A QUILL STEM TO A MODERN THREADLESS STEM

Your vintage bike came with a quill stem. Can it be converted to a more modern threadless stem? NO, YES, and YES.

NO - The steerer tube on the original fork is almost certainly not long enough to use a full threadless system.

YES - A new fork which has a sufficiently long steerer tube is required. New forks typically are made for threadless stems, and have no threads on the steerer tube. One can employ a used fork from a (much) larger bike that has a sufficiently long steer tube. However, any threaded upper portion of the used fork must be cut off. In this conversion, a threadless headset will be required.

CAUTION - You should NOT attach the threadless stem to the threaded portion of a fork's steerer tube. The steerer tube may (will) break at the threads. This can result in a dramatic alteration of the rider's appearance.

YES - There is an adapter one can buy that has a quill at one end and a cylinder at the other. The quill is inserted into the steerer tube and tightened. The threadless stem is clamped onto the cylindrical end. These threadless stem adapters are available at most bike shops or on the Internet at places like performancebike.com or nashbar.com. Cost is about $20.

UPGRADING FROM A DOUBLE TO TRIPLE CRANK

This is a common upgrade for people living in hilly areas. It can be done by replacing a double crank with a triple crank or by attaching a triple chainring adapter, a triplizer, to the existing double crank. Information on tripleizers (triple chainring adapters) , has been provided here by Don Gillies.

What new/used parts do you need to replace a double crank with a triple?

• Triple right crank
• L onger bottom bracket axle or new bottom bracket
• W ide range rear derailleur (either a road triple or mountain bike triple)
• Longer chain
• STI or Ergo triple front shifter or a friction shifter capable of handling a triple (most can).
• A new front derailleur may be needed if: 1. the existing one doesn't have enough range to shift to the inner and outer rings, or 2. if the chain drags on the tail of the derailleur when in the small ring.

If you want to use a small inner ring, less than 30 teeth or so, (touring over the Rockies, stump pulling or just peace of mind) and a large ring of 50 teeth or more, a new front derailleur with a long tail will probably be required. Here are some suggestions for long-tailed front derailleurs (all no longer made): Huret Duo Par, Huret Pilot, SunTour Cyclone MK II, Simplex SJA 522, Simplex SJA 102, Shimano N-600, SunTour Mountech. A Campagnolo Super Record front will work with inner rings down to about 28 teeth.

Drew Saunders has detailed information on making a double to triple conversion. http://www.stanford.edu/~dru/tripleize.html . This page also describes the use of the " tripleizer " chain ring.

A Campagnolo Nuovo or Super Record double crank arm can be converted to a triple by drilling and tapping the crank arm to accept a 74mm BCD inner chainring. It requires some precision, so don't try it with a hand drill. Various shops can do it for you, including Elliott Bay Bicycles in Seattle.

An alternative to a new bottom bracket is to add a longer axle to the existing cup and cone bottom bracket. It may not be easy to determining the length needed. See Sheldon Brown's Bottom Bracket Size Database for a discussion of this problem: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html . Vintage Trek road bike bottom bracket shells are the English/Japanese standard 68mm wide. Used parts can be found at bicycle swap meets, used bike shops, or on eBay.com

If you are able to find a vintage used road triple crank, you may have a challenge finding a bottom bracket or crank axle of the right length. See Sheldon Brown's site, http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html , for guidance.

For a vintage Trek, a common setup is to find a used Sugino AT crankset (triple) and use a Shimano UN52 or UN72 or UN73 sealed bottom bracket with 127.5mm axle. This may require a 2mm spacer on the right bottom bracket end to provide sufficient spacing between the small ring and the chainstay. The spacer is typically available at your local bike shop.

One possible solution to the crank axle length problem is to take the crank and bike to your local bike shop. Ask them to sell you a new bottom bracket and install it for you. It is likely the will have only Shimano sealed bottom brackets to choose from. They may have to do some trial an error fitting, trying a few bottom brackets until they come up with one that works. Let them know that using a 1mm or 2mm spacer on the right side is OK.

ADDING MORE REAR COGS OR CONVERTING TO INDEX SHIFTING

Vintage Treks typically came with 5 or 6 or 7 rear cogs. More modern rear hubs have 8, 9 or 10 cogs. Can an old Trek be modified to have more cogs? Yes, but it does take some money and work.

First, you must decide on the number of rear gears you want. If you want more than 8 gears in the rear, it is likely you will need a new crank. A 9 speed chain will likely fall between the chainwheels. A 10 speed chain is more of a problem.

A modern Shimano road hub with 130mm spacing can take a 8, 9 or 10 speed cassette. With a commercially-available spacer, the hub can be used with a 7 speed cassette. This road hub requires 130mm rear dropout spacing (see the Spreading Rear Dropouts section below).

Campagnolo and Shimano components are generally not compatible with each other if index shifting (click shifting) is your goal. Campy or Shimano rear shifters will not work with the other's rear derailleurs or cassettes. (An exception is that 9 speed hubs/wheels can be used, imperfectly, with the other's equipment.) Cassettes of one manufacturer will not fit on the other's rear hubs. However, Campy and Shimano front shifters and derailleurs are usually compatible.

If you are going to buy new road components of a single manufacturer, the components will be compatible, if a common speed (8, 9 or 10) for the parts is specified. If you are going to use components of different years and models, there are some incompatibilities of which you should be aware. The book "Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance" by Leonard Zinn contains details of these problems.

What is needed to convert from a freewheel hub (5, 6, or 7 speeds) to a cassette hub system with index shifting?

• A rear hub capable of carrying a cassette with the targeted number of gears. (This usually entails buying a new wheel.)
• A cassette with the desired number of cogs, that matches the new rear hub.
• New shifters that are made for the number of cogs on the cassette.
• Cable stops to replace the downtube shifters (if you are using integrated brake lever/shifters [AKA brifters] or barcon [bar end] shifters).
• New rear derailleur designed for index shifting. A caution - a rear derailleur designed for a lower number of cogs (e.g. 7) will shift cogs with more gears, BUT - there may not be clearance between the derailleur and the spokes.
• Front derailleur designed for index shifting. If you want to friction shift, almost any front derailleur will work.
• New chain designed for the targeted number of cogs in the cassette. A modern 8 speed chain will also work with 5, 6, or 7 speed cogs. Nine cogs require 9 speed chains; ten cogs require 10 speed chains.

If your bike has brazed-on bosses for downtube shifters, to convert from 5 or 6 speed shifters you probably can find 7 (or rarely, 8) speed Shimano indexed downtube shifters that will fit.

Many conversions use Shimano bar end (also called barcon) indexed shifters. They were available in 7 and 8 speeds (find used or NOS on eBay.com). Nine-speed barcons are still available new. Bar-end shifters avoid the expense of STI integrated brake levers/shifters and allows you to keep your current brake levers. They require replacing your downtube shifters with downtube cable stops.

A caution - some downtube clamp-on shifter bosses made for friction shifting, that may be on your lower to mid-level Trek bike, are not compatible with standard shifters that fit on brazed-on bosses. Downtube cable stops also will not fit on these nonstandard types of clamp-on bosses. Types that do not work are various Shimano ones, including Shimano 600, and many by SunTour. Old Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record clamp-on bosses work fine as do Shimano clamp-on bosses made for index shifting.

A shifter alternative is to use a brifter for shifting the rear derailleur, but a downtube shifter for the front. A regular brake lever can be used for the front brake. This weight-saving setup was often used by Lance on his climbing bike. Also, with this method you can use your existing non-indexing front derailleur and non-indexing downtube shifter.

Here are three innovative shifter alternatives that can facilitate upgrading or modernizing an old bike:

The Kelly Takeoff is: "A simple, low cost alternative to integrated shifting. Lightweight chromoly. Mounts simply. Uses your conventional shifters & aero/non-aero brake levers. Great for retrofits." Paul Component Engineering Thumbies thumb shifter mounts: "These are designed to be used with indexed Shimano bar-end (aka barcon) shifters. Both 9-speed and 8-speed indexed shifters are readily available, and these shifters also still have a friction option for everything else." Bar-end Shifter Mounts from Rivendell Bicycle Works . "If you have regular downtube shifters that you want to convert to bar-enders, you need these. Most shifters work on them. Not all, but most." CONVERTING FROM 27" DIAMETER WHEELS TO 700C WHEELS Many older Treks came with 27" diameter wheels/tires. More modern bikes use 700C wheels/tires. A common question is: "Can I simply replace my 27" wheels with 700C"? The answer is yes, if your brake pads can be lowered in their slots by 4mm or more. This is usually the case. A practical test is to borrow a set of 700C wheels and try them. If the pads cannot be lowered that much, the brakes calipers will have to be replaced with others that allow this much reach. There are plenty of good 27" tires available at road bike shops or on the Internet. Touring, commuting, and training tire availability is not a problem; lots of choices. Why change from 27" to 700C? Three reasons: 1. You want to use racing clincher tires. The selection and availability of lightweight skinny tires in 700C is huge. 2. You want to use tubular tires (which are not available in 27" diameter). 3. If you think 27" wheels/tires are old fashioned or your riding buddies give you grief.

SPREADING REAR DROPOUTS

Early Vintage Treks, 1976 to 1982 (or so), have a rear dropout spacing of 120mm. After 82, spacing increased to 126mm to accommodate 6 or 7 speed hubs. With a bit of effort (or $) you can bend the stays on your steel Trek to increase the spacing to work with modern hubs. Modern spacing is 130mm for 8, 9 or 10 speed (road hubs). One can even spread to 135mm to employ the extra strength of mountain bike rear hubs. This is common for touring bikes.

CAUTION: Only steel frames can be safely spread. Aluminum and carbon frames should not be spread as they tend to break or be damaged, not bend. Additionally, frames of Reynolds 753 steel tubing (such as the Trek Model 170) should not be spread. The forces required are so high that damage to the frame (or the person bending) is likely.

Unfortunately, there is some (but minor) risk involved in permanently bending a frame; the brake bridge or chainstay bridge can pop, leaving you with junk or an expensive repair job. An experienced bike shop can do the spreading, but usually with the proviso that is is at your risk.

One do-it-yourself method employs an 8" or longer piece of allthread, two nuts, and two washers. Allthread is a continuously-threaded rod available in most hardware stores. Use either 5/16" or 3/8" diameter. The allthread is placed in the dropouts and the nuts are turned outward to spread the dropouts. The washers go between the nuts and the dropouts. Lubricate the allthread to make the process easier.

You must spread well beyond the target width to get the stays to bend. It is an iterative process. Screw the dropouts out a bit, measure the spread, unscrew the allthread, and measure the result. If no permanent spreading is accomplished, spread again, going a bit farther. Repeat this process until the target is reached. Use care, there is little distance between spreading with no permanent bending and spreading with permanent bending. If you do go beyond the target width, use the allthread in reverse to bend the dropouts back together. Columbus tubing is commonly thought to be the most difficult to bend, followed by Ishiwata and then Reynolds 531.

I wrap the bridges with many turns of string and/or strapping tape to help assure they do not pop. However, realize that the tape or string can damage the paint. One can use the string method described by Sheldon Brown (see below) to check alignment after the spreading. Most Trek frames do not have dimpled chainstays, so spreading using the allthread method tends to spread the stays uniformly, and does not significantly affect alignment.

A final test of alignment is whether you can ride the bike with no hands and have the bike go straight with both bike and rider vertical.

More frame spreading information is available at Sheldon Brown's site http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html . He suggests an alternative method for spreading, employing a wooden 2 x 4. However, the 2 x 4 method can misalign the entire rear triangle. If this happens, one can use the allthread in reverse to keep the dropouts from spreading apart while using the 2 x 4 to twist the rear triangle back into alignment.

After spreading the dropouts, a good frame shop will align the dropout faces to make them parallel. They will have a tool just for this purpose. For the do-it-yourselfer, this is not normally necessary. Non parallel dropouts are often cited as a cause of axle breakage, at least for freewheel-type hubs. However, with the wide bearing location of modern cassette hubs, the problem is not encountered.

A shortcut, useful for going from 126mm to 130mm, is not to permanently spread the frame. When you install the 130mm hub, just pull apart the dropouts to make it fit. Not very elegant, but works just fine.

IS IT COLUMBUS TUBING?

Is the tubing on your frame Columbus? If so, the steerer tube outer surface would probably have a little Columbus dove stamped on it. Also, if Columbus, the lower portion of inside of the steerer tube will typically have "ridges" or "rifling". (The inner surface of the top of the tube will be smooth to accept the stem.) If either is the case, the fork tubing is almost certainly Columbus. If the fork is original, the rest of the frame is almost certainly Columbus. However, if either the dove or the rifling are missing, it is not proof it is not Columbus, but it likely is not.

On vintage Treks, the Cinelli bottom bracket (with cast in "Cinelli") was more commonly used with Columbus tubing. However, it is not a reliable indicator as it also was used with Reynolds 531 tubing.

SOURCES OF GENERAL VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHT INFORMATION HOW TO CONTACT TREK TECHNICAL SUPPORT HOW TO FIND VINTAGE BIKE PARTS BASIC SPECS FOR VINTAGE TREK STEEL ROAD BIKES STEEL TUBING SPECS FOR EARLY TREKS HELICOMATIC HUBS PAINT TREK DECALS PAINT TOUCH UP INTERNAL RUSTPROOFING OF A FRAME THREADING THE DERAILLEUR CABLE THROUGH THE CHAINSTAY CONVERTING FROM A QUILL STEM TO A MODERN THREADLESS STEM ADDING MORE REAR COGS OR CONVERTING TO INDEX SHIFTING UPGRADING FROM A DOUBLE TO TRIPLE CRANK CONVERTING FROM 27" DIAMETER WHEELS TO 700C WHEELS SPREADING REAR DROPOUTS IS IT COLUMBUS TUBING?

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