xela travel guide

The Complete Guide to Xela, Guatemala

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Guide to Xela, Guatemala

Visiting Xela, Guatemala? Here’s my travel guide to this Guatemalan city!

Quetzaltenango, better known by its Mayan name Xela, might be Guatemala’s second largest city, but 99% of people have never heard of it. This city in Guatemala’s highlands is often overlooked by many travelers, but I really enjoyed my time here and getting to know Xela.

If you’re short on time in Guatemala, I wouldn’t necessarily recommend visiting Xela, but if you have more time in the country, or if you want to take Spanish lessons, it’s a place you should check out!

Xela has a unique historic center, as well as a massive urban sprawl. The architecture in the historic center is very interesting. While it somewhat resembles a colonial town like Antigua in some places, I was also reminded of being in Europe at times in other places.

It’s a very intriguing, culturally rich city with lots to do nearby.

Here’s everything you need to know about visiting Xela, Guatemala.

Xela, Guatemala: How to Get There

If you’re coming from Guatemala City, the easiest way to get to Xela is by coach bus.

There are two bus companies, Transportes Alamos and Linea Dorada, that offer direct service to Xela. The buses are clean, comfortable, and include snacks. The total travel time to Xela is about four and a half hours with one rest stop. This option costs around $12.

You don’t need to buy tickets in advance, just show up to the bus station and buy them there.

Another option for getting to Xela from Guatemala City is taking a shared shuttle (I always use Adrenalina Tours for shuttles in Guatemala) which costs around $40. This option also takes about six hours because you will have to connect through Antigua first.

If you’re coming from Guatemala City, then I definitely recommend taking the bus to Xela over a shuttle. It’s the cheapest, fastest, and most comfortable option.

If you’re coming from Antigua, you can take a shared shuttle to Xela for around $30, and it will take about three and a half hours. Unfortunately, there is no direct coach bus or chicken bus option. 

Coming from Lake Atitlan, the journey to Xela takes a little over two hours, and you can either take a shared shuttle for around $25 or take a direct chicken bus from Panajachel to Xela for just $3!

Where to Stay in Xela

Hands down the best place to stay in Xela is the Hotel Muchá .

This boutique hostel is one of the most unique and best value places I have ever stayed.

The interior of Muchá is spotlessly clean and decorated in a beautiful way. There are two massive courtyards for guests to relax in, along with a bright and sunny lounge room. 

You can choose from private rooms with a private bathroom, or private rooms with a shared bathroom. I paid only $22 a night for a private room with a private bathroom, and this also included a delicious breakfast every morning. 

The owners and staff at Muchá really go above and beyond for guests, and I highly recommend staying here while in Xela!

If you plan to take Spanish lessons while in Xela, another option is doing a homestay with a local family. This is a popular and very affordable option that all the Spanish schools can arrange for you.

A homestay costs about $100 a week and includes three meals a day.

Here are other places to stay in Xela that I heard good things about:

• Casa Seibel
• Kasa Kiwi Hostel

Things to Do in Xela

Wondering what to do in Xela? Here are some can’t-miss activities…

Take Spanish lessons.

I spent six weeks taking Spanish lessons in Guatemala , with two of them spent in Xela.

Xela is a great place to learn Spanish because it is less touristy than Antigua or Lake Atitlan, and many people don’t speak English at all. So you will really be able to immerse yourself here.

I went to Utatlan Spanish School which I highly recommend. At the time, it cost me about $135 a week for 20 hours of one-on-one Spanish lessons, plus afternoon activities like salsa classes, cultural visits, hiking, and cooking classes. The location of the school is super convenient in the historic center.

Climb Cerro El Baul.

For the best viewpoint over the city, head up to Cerro El Baul. This hilltop offers a great overlook of Xela, and is one of the few green spaces in the city.

From the city center, it takes about an hour to get to the top, where there’s a park and viewpoint. If you don’t want to walk, it’s also possible to reach the top by car.

Visit the hot springs.

The Fuentes Georginas hot springs are about thirty minutes outside Xela in a town called Zunil, located in a very scenic mountainous area. 

I personally had an underwhelming time at the hot springs (it was absolutely packed because I went on a Saturday afternoon) so for a better experience, I would recommend going there on a weekday morning when it will be less crowded. It costs 60Q (about $8) for foreigners.

🌋 Book this tour to Fuentes Georginas and enjoy natural hot springs at the base of Zunil Volcano.

Summit a volcano.

For adventure-seekers, there are several volcanoes around Xela that you can climb.

Tajumulco is the tallest volcano in Central America, Santa Maria offers views of eruptions at the nearby Santiaguito, and Chicabal is famous for the Mayan rituals that occur at the crater lake in the center. All of these volcanoes are easily accessible from Xela.

🌋 Trek to the Chicabal volcano and lagoon near Quetzaltenango .

I did not climb any volcanoes while in Xela— climbing Acatenango was enough for me ! But I heard that Quetzaltrekkers is the best company in the area to go climbing with.

Where to Eat in Xela

Here are some of the best places I ate while in Xela:

Mandarina:  This Australian-run cafe is a place where you can find all your favorite foods from home like avocado toast and bagel sandwiches! The food is delicious and they have a nice garden.

Xelapan:  Xelapan is a little bakery chain with several locations around the city. Their bread, pastries, and snacks are all freshly-baked and super yummy, and extremely cheap too.

Sabor de la India: The best place for authentic Indian food in Xela.

Bake Shop:  This is a very popular bakery in Xela that is run by Mennonites. They offer a delicious selection of homemade pastries, doughnuts, cookies, and more.

Bar Salon Tecun:  Located in the covered arcade Pasaje Enriquez, this restaurant and bar right across from Parque Central is known for having the best pizza in Xela.

El Cuartito:  This restaurant is a great place to go for breakfast, lunch, or dinner in Xela. They have a nice outdoor courtyard and it gets lively in the evenings.

🍴 Getting hungry? Book this Xela traditional food tour .

Is Xela Safe?

There are many reasons why I enjoy traveling alone but as a solo female traveler, safety is always a priority for me.

Like everywhere else I went during my two and a half months in Guatemala, I felt very safe in Xela.

Although it’s a fairly large city, Xela is much safer than the capital, Guatemala City. Of course, I cannot speak for every zone or neighborhood in Xela, but staying in Zone 1 and Zone 3, I felt quite safe at all times. However, like with anywhere, I never walked around by myself late at night.

But other than that, I didn’t take any extreme safety precautions and I always felt safe. Even though I was often the only foreigner walking down the street, I never felt like I attracted unwanted attention and people just minded their business for the most part.

So overall, I would say Xela is a very safe destination. As a solo female traveler, you have nothing to worry about as long as you use common sense and avoid walking alone late at night.

Weather in Xela, Guatemala

One last thing to note: it gets CHILLY in Xela!

Due to its location in the Western Highlands, Xela has a climate that is cooler than many other parts of Guatemala. The temperature varies little throughout the year, with lows around 50 degrees and highs around 65 to 70 degrees. It can also be quite windy.

In the evenings, you will definitely want to have a light jacket with you.

Like the rest of Guatemala, Xela experiences two seasons: dry season and rainy season. Dry seasons lasts from November through March, while rainy season is April through October.

What More Guatemala Travel Tips?

Here are some of my other Guatemala travel blogs and travel tips:

• Top 8 Places to Go in Guatemala
• The Complete Guide to Lake Atitlan, Guatemala
• 40 Essential Guatemala Travel Tips
• Ultimate Guide to El Paredon, Guatemala

📌 Check out my complete guide to Guatemala .

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About Denise Cruz

Denise is a marketing executive who escaped corporate to travel the world… twice. A Brazilian native living in the U.S., she’s lived in 4 countries and visited 35+ others. After side-hustling her way to financial independence, she curates solo destination guides, slow travel tips, and travel blogging advice on Wander Her Way. When she’s not on the road, you can find her in Miami with her dog Finnegan.

Visit Xela | Your ultimate guide to Quetzaltenango

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Exploring Quetzaltenango Where to stay Where to eat How to get around Things to do

Travellers in Guatemala often skip Quetzaltenango, also known by its Mayan name Xela. And that’s exactly what makes it unique.

Despite being Guatemala’s second biggest city, Quetzaltenango doesn’t attract nearly as many tourists as the UNESCO World Heritage Site that is Antigua. No doubt Antigua is a beautiful city, but it no longer has that authentic and local feel that you’ll still find in Quetzaltenango.

If you’re visiting Quetzaltenango (Xela) soon, you’ve come to the right place. After reading this guide, you’ll know which area to stay in, where to find the best restaurants, how to get around and what to do in Guatemala’s second-biggest city.

Is Quetzaltenango worth visiting?

As you wander through Quetzaltenango’s colourful colonial streets, you get a beautiful insight into the lives of the locals intertwined with the city’s history, culture and traditions.

This charm and compelling vibe are hard to capture in words — you’ll just have to see for yourself! 

The area around Quetzaltenango is a hotspot for volcanoes, offering a number of incredible volcano hikes, including the highest peak in Central America, Tajumulco Volcano.

Inside the city, the streets are filled with stories to uncover and sites to visit. Simply slipping into everyday life in Quetzaltenango is one of the best things you can do too.

Is it Quetzaltenango or Xela?

You may have seen Quetzaltenango being referred to as Xela. This isn’t some nickname because “Quetzaltenango” is a long word that’s hard to spell. It’s a play on the city’s original name.

Before Spanish colonisation, the city was called Xelajú, hence Xela for short. It was the capital of the Maya K’Iche kingdom.

Whatever you want to call the city, one thing is for certain, there are plenty of fun things to do in Quetzaltenango.

How long should you spend in Quetzaltenango?

How long you stay in Quetzaltenango depends on your reason for visiting the city. Some people stay for months to volunteer or brush up on their language skills. It’s a livable city and there are some good and affordable Spanish schools here). 

For this reason, Quetzaltenango has a small but close-knit expat community.

If you simply want to see the city and tick off the top things to do in Quetzaltenango, then 3-4 days is a good amount of time.

Where to stay in Quetzaltenango, Guatemala

Quetzaltenango is Guatemala’s second-biggest city after Guatemala City. 

Most big cities have a number of neighbourhoods to pick from and areas to research. But when it comes to Quetzaltenango, choosing which area to stay in is quite simple.

Stay in Zona 1  — near Parque Central

Parque Central is the cultural epicentre of Quetzaltenango. It’s the heart of the city, bustling with activity and locals meeting with their friends.

It’s a great place to stay. This is where you’ll find the most restaurants, bars, cafes and shops. 

Parque Central is within Zona 1 , so anywhere in this area will be safe and full of options. Staying within Zona 1 means that most things you need will be within walking distance.

And you’ll probably want to walk as the streets in Zona 1 boast colourful and unique colonial architecture.

Accommodation in Quetzaltenango

We recommend booking your stay in advance. Considering how big Quetzaltenango is, there isn’t a huge number of accommodations to choose from. 

The majority of accommodation options are homestays, small family-run hotels, Airbnbs and hostels.

Private rooms in Quetzaltenango start at around $15 per night.

Casa Seibel is a great budget option without having to compromise on comfort. If you’re not on a budget, Latam Hotel’s rooftop pool and gym are the perfect way to treat yourself. 

Where to eat in Quetzaltenango

Guatemala isn’t the cheapest place to eat. That applies to Quetzaltenango too.

Although there might only be a few cheap options, there are plenty of delicious ones. You can find traditional Guatemalan cuisine and plenty of Italian influence in Quetzaltenango. Even Indian restaurants!

To make sure that you only have delicious meals in Quetzaltenango, check out our three favourites places to eat:

Restaurante Tertulianos — one of Quetzaltenango’s best restaurants

Restaurante Tertulianos is one of Quetzaltenango’s most famous restaurants. With thoughtful presentation and memorable flavours, the food here is on the fancier side,

Situated inside an elegant colonial-style building, boasting a gorgeous garden and beautifully adorned walls, Restaurante Tertulianos creates the perfect ambience for a meal.

Clara y Tinto ⁠— for a Spanish vibe and delicious wine

When entering Clara y Tinto , you’ll feel as if you’ve suddenly been transported to Spain. The moody and perfectly-lit interior creates the ideal place to enjoy some top-quality wine and tapas. 

The wine bar offers a range of tapas to accompany your wine, cocktail or beer. You can indulge in a cheese board, charcuterie board, salads and sandwiches. It’s a great place to spend an evening in Quetzaltenango.

Sabor de la India ⁠— a taste of India in Guatemala

Indian food might not be what you came to Guatemala for, but it doesn’t mean that you have to miss out on Sabor de la India . There is an array of dishes to choose from, including all of your favourite Indian dishes. 

The food is seasoned with rich spices and cooked with care ⁠— you can almost taste it in the food. Sabor de la India is also one of the cheaper options in Quetzaltenango.

How to get around Quetzaltenango

Exactly what we like to hear when visiting a new city ⁠— Quetzaltenango is an easy city to navigate. Despite being the second biggest city in Guatemala, Quetzaltenango packs most of its must-sees into a small area.

The best ways to get around Quetzaltenango:

By foot 

Quetzaltenango is full of walkable streets with so much to see.

Whilst walking from one place to another may be the longer option, most of the time it’s the best. Walking to your destination is a great way to explore the city.

The only time it may not be better to walk is at night. If you’re alone, you might want to get a taxi.

For longer distances around Quetzaltenango, minivans or microbuses are the best options.

Quetzaltenango is full of them. You won’t have to wait long before one drives past in the direction that you want to go.

They have designated routes around the city, with the destination often advertised in the window. They also sometimes have someone shouting where they’re going (fast and loudly). 

As well as being a mode of transport, the minivans can be part of your Quetzaltenango experience as you sit shoulder-to-shoulder with locals.

The minivans are the cheapest way to get around Quetzaltenango, costing only Q1.25 during the day and Q2 at night.

By taxi/Uber

Taxis can be found everywhere in Quetzaltenango. They’re often roaming the streets looking for passengers or waiting outside of popular locations such as the bus station. 

Taxis are the most comfortable and convenient way to get around the city, but they’re also more expensive. Most rides within the city will cost between Q20-40.

Uber is also available in Quetzaltenango. They are normally cheaper and can be ordered to your exact location when you want them, so this may be a better option.

By chicken bus

Chicken bus is the nickname given to the brightly coloured and decorated buses in Guatemala. Fun fact: they’re actually retired school buses from the United States!

Sometimes it’s impossible to work out where they’re going. But once you’ve figured it out, the chicken buses are great for reaching hikes outside the city. Plus, they’re cheap and their hecticness adds to the adventure.

The 45-minute journey to Santa Maria Volcano costs only Q2.

Top 10 things to do in Quetzaltenango

Get your bucket list ready. In this guide, we’ll show you the best things to do in Quetzaltenango and how to experience them.

#1 Put your stamina to the test by hiking Volcano Santa Maria

Santa Maria Volcano can be seen from pretty much anywhere within Quetzaltenango, enticing people to take on the challenge to hike to the top.

Making the hike even more exciting, Santa Maria is still erupting and has been since 1922. In 1902, it produced one of the largest volcanic eruptions in the 20th century.

Don’t let its activity put you off, there hasn’t been an eruption in around 10 years.

How to hike Santa Maria Volcano

Hiking Santa Maria Volcano is one of the best things to do in Quetzaltenango. You’ll put your body to the test, and enjoy some incredible views.

Santa Maria is a 3,772m tall stratovolcano, the fourth highest in Guatemala. During the 3-4 hour hike up, you gain 1,230m of elevation. At some points the hike can be quite steep, and definitely shouldn’t be considered an easy hike. 

Once you get to the base of the trail, the path to the summit is easy to follow. However, we would recommend using the trail on Maps.me to make sure that you stay on track.

Reaching the summit

Upon reaching the summit, all of your hard work is rewarded with spectacular views of Quetzaltenango and Guatemala’s volcano alley — seven volcanic peaks all in a line.

The best view, if you have good visibility, is of Santiaguito Volcano. It’s a smaller volcano that was formed during the 1902 Santa Maria eruption and is still erupting.

You should be able to hear the grumbles of eruptions and see plumes of smoke coming from Santiaguito.

The best time to see Santiaguito erupting is in the morning. Cloud coverage increases during the day, so consider getting to the summit for sunrise or before 10 am.

Adding to the magic of the views, you’ll also see a number of Mayan flower offerings at the top.

How to get to Santa Maria Volcano

Getting to Santa Maria Volcano is easy and cheap. You can take a chicken bus across the street from Iglesia El Calvario in Quetzaltenango.

The bus takes 45 minutes and costs Q2. You need to get off at Llanos del Pinal. The driver’s helper on the bus will shout out the stop names, so make sure you’re listening.

You can do this hike independently, or you can hire a guide in Quetzaltenango.

#2 Visit Quetzaltenango’s unique cemetery

Visiting a cemetery may not be at the top of everyone’s list of things to do, but you should visit the cemetery in Quetzaltenango.

At first glance, Quetzaltenango cemetery looks to be a colourful place brimming with mausoleums and tombs. A place to celebrate as well as mourn the dead. Almost every grave is different, making it an interesting place to explore.

Learn about Guatemalan society

The fascinating thing about the cemetery isn’t its tombs, though. It’s the insight that the cemetery gives into Guatemalan society.

Here you can tell the disparity between the rich and the poor by the decadence of the tombs. The rich are buried in large mausoleums, whilst the poorer groups of society are buried in stacked concrete tombs.

There is also a mass grave within the cemetery for those who can’t afford to buy a plot or pay the rent. A lot can be learned from the cemetery in Quetzaltenango. 

#3 Study Spanish in Quetzaltenango

Guatemala has 24 different languages, but the main language spoken is Spanish. Learning Spanish can make travelling through Latin America significantly easier.

Even a week of lessons can give you the keys to a whole different experience on your travels, interacting and learning from locals.

Quetzaltenango is a great city to learn Spanish in. It’s a very livable city, plus there are a number of Spanish schools offering classes with homestays. Living with a local family in a homestay can be a great way to accelerate your journey of learning Spanish.

Miguel de Cervantes School of Spanish is a highly recommended school and reasonably priced. For example, 15 hours of lessons cost $123. Another good option is El Portal Spanish School with one week of one-on-one lessons and a seven-day homestay (including three meals a day) costing $160.

#4 Support Trama Textiles and learn to weave

Trama Textiles is a cooperative of female Maya backstrap loom weavers based in Quetzaltenango.

They work directly with 100 women from 17 weaving communities across 5 regions in the Western Highlands of Guatemala. The cooperative was formed in 1988 after the civil war in Guatemala that left a lot of women fending for themselves.

How can you get involved with Trama Textiles?

Visiting Trama Textiles is a great way to support these women. You can buy one of their incredible pieces of work or take a weaving lesson yourself!

You can choose a number of things to make, including a simple sample piece, a scarf or a complex embroidered table runner. A 1-hour class costs Q35, whilst a 10-hour scarf weaving course costs Q350.

It’s an incredible opportunity to work side by side with inspirational women, learn about the history of weaving and develop a new skill.

#5 Summit Tajumulco Volcano

Tajumulco is the highest peak in Central America, standing at an impressive 4,220m.

The hike to the summit of Tajumulco Volcano takes two days with an elevation gain of around 1,200m and a distance of just over 12 km.

Despite being the highest peak in Central America, Tajumulco Volcano isn’t super challenging to conquer, especially if you acclimate to the altitude beforehand.

The view at the summit makes the thousands of steps and sweat completely worth it.  On a really good day, you’ll be able to see hundreds of kilometres across Guatemala and even into Mexico.

How to hike Tajumulco Volcano

You can hike Tajumulco Volcano independently, but you’ll need to camp on the volcano, so a lot of people opt to join a tour.

Joining a tour means that you have an experienced guide, equipment, transportation and food organised for you. You can find guided tours for around Q500 per person. 

#6 Take on the 3-day hike from Xela to Lake Atitlan

Guatemala is a hiking haven. You have the spectacular Acatenango Volcano in Antigua, the lost Mayan city of El Mirador in the jungles up north and the beautiful trek from Xela to Lake Atitlan.

The 3-day unforgettable hike takes you through the Western Highlands of Guatemala from Quetzaltenango to Lake Atitlan.

What is the Xela to Lake Atitlan hike like?

Covering 46 km, the hike offers a glimpse of Guatemala’s diversity. In three days, you’ll hike through grasslands, cornfields, river valleys, coffee farms and cloud forests.

Along the way, you’ll stop in remote villages that are only accessible by foot and stay in local homestays. You may find them pretty basic, but that’s part of the experience. One of the best things about this hike is that it gives you an insight into a side of Guatemala that most visitors miss. 

On day 3, the hike finishes on Indian Nose, a summit overlooking Lake Atitlan. It’s the perfect end to, and reward for, hours of hiking.

How to do the hike from Xela to Lake Atitlan

The hike from Xela to Lake Atitlan covers a number of trails that aren’t well-marked or documented online.

For this reason, most people hire a guide or join a tour. This also means that your accommodation, food and transportation are arranged for you. 

A number of tourist agencies sell the Xela to Lake Atitlan hike in Quetzaltenango. The price tends to be around Q750 per person.

#7 Witness the sacredness of Cerro Quemado

Cerro Quemado, meaning ‘burnt hill’, is one of the easier hikes from Quetzaltenango.

As well as being an enjoyable 2-hour hike, the journey also feels like a cultural experience. Cerro Quemado is a sacred religious place for Evangelicals and Mayans.

During the hike up, you’ll see bouquets of flowers, crosses and written prayers snuggled into cracks in the rocks.

#8 Relax at Fuentes Georginas hot springs

If you’ve decided to embark on any of the volcano hikes in this guide, you might want to also treat yourself by visiting Fuentes Georginas hot springs .

Heated by Zunil Volcano, the four thermal pools will treat your sore muscles in no time. All of them have different temperatures, so you can find the one that’s perfect for you.

The hot springs are a nice place to spend the day relaxing. There is also a restaurant and a short hike in the jungle surrounding the hot springs.

How to visit Fuentes Georginas hot springs

Fuentes Georginas hot springs are located just under an hour from Quetzaltenango.

The easiest way to get there, if you don’t have your own car, is to book a shuttle. These cost Q25 per person.

Another option is to take a chicken bus to the town of Zunil for Q5 and then take a tuk-tuk/taxi to the hot springs. This price will depend on your haggling skills but should cost around 50Q per group.  

Entrance to the hot springs cost Q60 per person, and they are open from 9 am-6 pm every day.

#9 Splash around at Xocomil Waterpark

Located a 1.5-hour drive from Quetzaltenango, Xocomil Waterpark is the largest in Guatemala.

Whether you have kids, or you’re a big kid yourself, everyone is guaranteed to have a good time here. With four different pools, a lazy river and plenty of slides, you won’t want to leave at the end of the day.

The whole waterpark is surrounded by vegetation, making you feel like you’re in the middle of the Guatemalan jungle.

Tickets cost Q100 for adults and Q50 for kids. Xocomil Waterpark is only open Thursday to Sunday from 9 am-5 pm. 

#10 Chant and cheer at a football match in Quetzaltenango

Watching a football game in Latin America has to be on your bucket list. The atmosphere is indescribable and like nowhere else in the world! 

Fans chant for the entirety of the game, light fireworks and go a little crazy. The vibrant atmosphere is infectious, and before long, you’ll be trying to join in with the Spanish chants.

Quetzaltenango may not be the best place in Latin America to watch a football game, but if there’s a match on whilst you’re there, GO!

Xelaju MC is the local team, so make sure you know who you’re supporting. The matches are held in the city’s stadium, Estadio Mario Camposeco , with a capacity of 11,000 spectators.

Tickets can normally be bought just before the game at the stadium and vary in price depending on the game.

Rounding it up

After reading this detailed guide, you should have a good idea of what to do in Quetzaltenango, the best places to stay and where to eat. We hope you have the best time exploring this lesser-known city in Guatemala.

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Kate is a writer, (ex)Management Consultant and avid traveller. She recently returned from a 2-year career break exploring the world and decided corporate life wasn’t for her. She’ll soon be testing life as a digital nomad. She’s visited over 40 countries and fell in love with Latin America in particular. Her travelling has inspired a passion for yoga, salsa, hiking and Spanish.

Aleksandra is a writer and editor who recently moved from Hong Kong to London. She’s worked and studied in four countries (and counting) and picked up a new hobby in each of them. She’s a big fan of long train journeys so you can count on her to take the scenic route, finding a few hidden gems along the way.

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Quetzaltenango

Quetzaltenango is Guatemala's second city. It has a great atmosphere – not too big, not too small, enough foreigners to support a good range of hotels and restaurants, but not so many that it loses its national flavor. The city center has an interesting mix of architectural styles – once the Spanish moved out, the Germans moved in and their architecture gives the zone a somber, even Gothic, feel.

Attractions

Must-see attractions.

Centro Intercultural de Quetzaltenango

Quetzaltenango's railroad station, 1km east of the Templo de Minerva along 4a Calle, lay dormant for many years until the city converted it into this…

Parque Centro América

Most of Xela's sights crowd in and around the broad central plaza. It's a great place for a stroll or to sit and people-watch. It was originally two…

Quetzaltenango's enormous cemetery is a pleasant and fascinating green space for a walk. To the left of the main entrance, visit the grave of the gypsy…

Cerro el Baúl

This wooded hill is a popular weekend destination for city dwellers, for its wonderful views across Xela's broad plain and to the volcanos that fringe it…

Museo de Arte

An interesting if chaotic collection of some 400 paintings by Guatemala's leading modernists is exhibited here, including works by Efraín Recinos, Jorge…

Museo Ixkik'

This museum is devoted to Maya weaving, with traditional outfits arranged by region. Director Raquel García is an expert on the symbols and meanings of…

Templo de Minerva

Rising incongruously from an island in the middle of traffic-choked 4a Calle, this temple was erected by dictator Estrada Cabrera to honor the Roman…

Iglesia El Calvario

The church that lends its name to the neighborhood west of the center was built four centuries ago on a rise to avoid Xela's periodic flooding. Check out…

Latest stories from Quetzaltenango

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Guatemala lives in technicolor. Everywhere you go, the vibrant indigos, reds, greens and yellows harken to a history that transcends time and remains very…

Purchase our award-winning guidebooks

Get to the heart of Quetzaltenango with one of our in-depth, award-winning guidebooks, covering maps, itineraries, and expert guidance.

15 UNIQUE Things to Do in Xela (Quetzaltenango), Guatemala [2024 Edition]

Quetzaltenango, or commonly known as Xela , is the second-largest city in Guatemala after Guatemala City, and yet, it rarely gets any tourism.

It’s not a typical tourist destination with luxury hotels or fancy restaurants, but it provides a real representation of everyday life in Guatemala.

After spending a month studying Spanish in Xela , seeing the struggles of local families, and falling for the city’s genuine charm, I felt compelled to share my discoveries and write a guide no the best things to do in Xela.

So read on and find out what to do in Xela, where to stay, and other information to make your visit enjoyable!

Planning A Trip To Quetzaltenango Last Minute?

Make sure you book your tours, places to stay, and airport transfers ahead of time to ensure availability!

Our recommended tours in Quetzaltenango:

• Half-Day Tour of Fuentes Georginas Hot Springs (Must-have experience!)
• Guided Trek to Chicabal Volcano (Amazing Hike)

Our recommended places to stay in Quetzaltenango :

• Hotel Muchá (AMAZING value-for-money!)
• Casa Seibel (Perfect for backpackers)

What To Do In Xela: 15 Best Things To Do In Xela (Quetzaltenango)

Go hiking in xela, 1. tajumulco volcano, the highest mountain in central america.

Xela, at 2,330 meters above sea level, can be cold most of the time. To combat the coldness, visit the nearby Fuentes Georginas Hotsprings!

Though I did not go myself (no way am I taking my clothes off in the Xela cold), a lot of my friends went and said it was amazing.

The pools are situated in a nearby town called Zunil . It is possible to do it yourself but the prices come out to be around the same because you need to take a taxi from Zunil town all the way up to Fuentas Georginas Springs.

Surrounded by lush mountain s, visitors can relax in their hot natural volcanic springs and admire the beautiful scenery. A lot of my friends did not find the main pool to be hot enough, but you can pay a little extra to access the hotter lower pools .

When you visit remember to bring warm clothes, your bathing suit, cash, and a combination lock to use their lockers. To use the lockers, you have to pay an extra fee.

• Hours:  9 AM – 6 PM
• Admission Fee:  60 Q for the main pool, an additional 25 Q for the hotter lower pools (At time of writing)
• Location:   Fuentes Georginas

Looking to experience the Fuentes Georginas from Xela? Check out our recommended half-day tour here!

11. Visit The Xela Cemetery (For Fun)!

Believe it or not. One of the best attractions in Xela (Quetzaltenango) is its cemetery! Though this might be strange and downright disrespectful in some cultures, the cemeteries are quite popular attractions in Guatemala, Mexico, and more countries.

The Xela cemetery is a wide area filled with various different types of tombstones. You will see traditional tombs with just a cross contrasted with remarkable mausoleums .

Many of them are decorated really well (especially if it is around Day of the Dead, an important  Guatemalan celebration ) and it’s a strange feeling seeing such a photogenic graveyard.

With a beautiful volcano as the backdrop, it’s hard to not upload a photo on this beautiful scenery on Instagram.

Please be respectful when you visit. It is an active cemetery after all!

If possible, I recommend going with a tour guide as the cemetery is full of exciting history and interesting facts!

• Location:  Cementerio General

12. Do Yoga at The Yoga House

Casa Seibel is a beautiful and cozy hostel located in the touristy part of Xela. They have shared rooms with single beds so no more climbing up ladders in the middle of the night.

Their showers are hot, which can be hard to find in Xela sometimes. My favorite part is the sunny courtyards that make the perfect place to relax after a busy day in Xela! If you want more of a party vibe, the nearby  Casa Kiwi  is the perfect place to stay in Xela!

Best Hotel in Xela –  LATAM Hotel Plaza Pradera Quetzaltenango

LATAM Hotel Plaza Pradera is one of the most luxurious hotels in Xela. This is the place celebrities and soccer players stay when they come to Xela! Guests can enjoy a panoramic view of Xela on their gorgeous rooftop swimming pool. The hotel also has a fitness center and an on-site restaurant! However, this hotel is a bit far from some of the attractions in Xela.

Is Xela (Quetzaltenango) Safe?

One of the most frequently asked questions about Xela is whether it is safe or not. After spending more than a month there and learning from other travelers’ experiences, I can conclude that Xela isn’t exactly the safest place in Guatemala.

While nothing happened to me in my 1+ month in Xela, I avoided staying out at night and all the dodgy streets. I recommend exercising increased caution when visiting Xela. In the daytime, it is usually fine. But I encourage traveling groups at night, especially if you are a woman.

There are also safer neighborhoods in Guatemala. Generally, Zona 1 is quite safe and where most of the accommodations are located.

Don’t let this discourage you from visiting the authentic city of Xela! We recommend purchasing travel insurance (even if it is just for the duration you will be in Xela) just to have peace of mind.

If you are still worried, you can skip Xela and head over to Antigua, probably the safest City in Guatemala .

Things To Do In Xela (Quetzaltenango) FAQs

How many days to stay in xela, is xela guatemala worth visiting.

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I hope this guide answers your question on “What to do in Xela Guatemala”. Xela has a special place in my heart and I hope you enjoy this authentic city as much as I did! Questions? Leave a comment below!

Disclaimer: Some of the links above are affiliate links. That means if you book or make a purchase through the links, we will earn a small commission at  no extra cost to you ! The money will help run this site! Thank you !

World Traveler, Travel Blogger, Photographer

LivingOutLau

Sean is the founder of the travel blog, LivingOutLau. He has been to over 30 countries in over 5 years of travel. Every day, he is traveling and sharing his discoveries of the world through exceptional travel guides on his blog!

4 thoughts on “15 UNIQUE Things to Do in Xela (Quetzaltenango), Guatemala [2024 Edition]”

Thank you very much for this informative blog. We will follow your recommendations during our stay in Xela!

Hello! Great and complete information regarding Xela! Just a question: do you know where we can exchange USD/Euros for Quetzales in Xela? Thanks in advance!

I don’t recall see any currency exchanges in Xela. You are better off using a debit card that allows you to withdraw Quetzales from a local ATM. Most of the cards do, but I would double check with your bank. You also get the best value this way.

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Xela Travel Guide

What's unique.

Xela, Quetzaltenango, Guatemala

Welcome to Xela, a vibrant and culturally rich city nestled in the highlands of Guatemala. Xela, short for Quetzaltenango, is the second-largest city in the country and offers a unique blend of colonial charm, awe-inspiring landscapes, and an immersive cultural experience. Surrounded by towering volcanoes, lush forests, and indigenous communities, Xela promises an unforgettable adventure for travelers seeking both natural splendor and authentic local encounters. Whether you are looking to explore ancient Mayan ruins, learn Spanish, indulge in traditional cuisine, or embark on thrilling outdoor excursions, Xela has something to captivate every type of traveler. Let this travel guide be your companion as we unveil the hidden gems and cherished treasures of Xela, inviting you to embrace the warmth of Guatemalan hospitality in this enchanting city.

Travel Blogs

Quetzaltenango

• 1 Understand
• 3.1 Local buses
• 3.2 Minibuses
• 4.1 Historical center
• 4.2 Cultural activities
• 5.1 Volunteering
• 5.2 Outdoors
• 10.1 Budget
• 10.2 Mid-range
• 10.3 Splurge
• 11.1 Internet cafes
• 12 Stay safe
• 13.1 Consulates
• 14.1 Attractions
• 14.2 Destinations
• 14.3 The High Country
• 14.4 Toward the Coast
• 14.5 Pacific Beach

Quetzaltenango , also known as Xela (pronounced SHAY-la) or Xelaju , is the second largest city in Guatemala . There are a number of attractions in town, and it's also a good base for exploring Guatemala's Western Highlands ("Los Altos"). Situated at the southwest of the country, the surrounding department has a variety of landscapes extending from the cold highlands to the warm Pacific coast. There are numerous volcanos, hot springs, valleys, mountains, rivers. The region provides a harvest of numerous products such as coffee, wheat, fruits and vegetables, and has sheep and cattle breeding.

Understand [ edit ]

The city of Quetzaltenango, the capital and largest city of the department of the same name, is situated on an extensive plain and surrounded by hills and volcanoes. The city of Quetzaltenango conserves the old K'iche' Maya traditions and the colonial past, while maintaining the dynamism of modern life.

The city's roots go back to the Pre-Columbian Maya era. The Mam authority, called Kulahá , reached its most important expansion. The K'iche' lords later conquered the area, and founded the city of Xelajú here, moving it from a previous location at the base of the volcano Santa Maria.

The city was already some 300 years old when Spanish Conquistadors came to conquer Guatemala in the early 1500s. Their native allies the Nahuas from Central Mexico called the city "Quetzaltenango", meaning "the place of the Quetzal bird" in the Nahua language. The Spanish took the name from the Nahuas. It's still the city's official name, but locals are more apt to casually call it "Xela" from the ancient name of Xelajú.

It was the administrative capital of the Western Highland region in the Spanish Colonial period. With Central American independence from Spain in the 1820s it was part of the Central American Federation. Conflicts between the interests of Quetzaltenango and Guatemala City led to the creation of "Los Altos", the "Sixth State of the Central American Confederation", consisting of Western Guatemala (and a slice of what is now part of Chiapas Mexico) with Quetzaltenango as its capital. When the Central American Federation fell apart in 1839-1840, Los Altos was briefly a de-facto independent state, until the army of Guatemalan dictator Carrera brutally conquered the city and hung its leaders.

The city enjoyed prosperity with the boom in coffee production in the late 19th and start of the 20th century, when many of the city's "Belle Époque" style landmarks still seen were built. Plans for a railway to Quetzaltenango dated back to the 1890s, and construction was started in the 1920s and finally completed in 1930. The "Ferrocarril de los Altos" was proclaimed the engineering marvel of the age -- until it was destroyed by landslides in 1933. The fabled railroad is still remembered in local song and story, and there's a museum dedicated to it in town.

Quetzaltenango's prosperity declined from the Great Depression through the Guatemalan Civil War in the later 20th century, and for a time much of the city looked on the scruffy side. With the new millennium, however, better times are back. The old landmarks have been refurbished and new ones added, and the city is more beautiful and vibrant than ever.

Quetzaltecos are proud of their city, its distinct regional culture, and its rich heritage.

Get in [ edit ]

By car [ edit ].

Use the Panamerican Highway (CA-1) which crosses the Highlands or the International (CA-2), parallel to the Pacific Coast .

By bus [ edit ]

As with most cities in the country try to arrange to arrive well before dark since moving around in the city is more complicated and dangerous after dark.

• For 1st class buses to Guatemala City, Galgos has its terminal on Calle Rodolfo Robles, at the southern end of the La Democracia market district in Zona 3, at the end of 18 Avenida. Alamo also has its office in Zona 3, on 14 Avenida, near the corner with 5a Calle, a few blocks northeast of La Democracia.
• From Antigua , take a chicken bus from the terminal in Antigua to Chimaltenango for Q5. Get off on the main road (under a massive concrete bridge,) walk one block west to catch one of the buses which go from Guatemala City to Xela, Q30.
• From many villages around Lake Atitlán , buses go to Xela (from some infrequently, usually early in the morning.) A frequent service goes from Panajachel to Sololá and from there to Los Encuentros . There you can hop on one of the frequent buses from Guatemala City to Xela. Make sure to get to Los Encuentros well before dusk since no buses pass by after a certain hour and it is not a very pleasant place to spend the night.
• From San Cristóbal in Mexico (as a tourist hotspot well connected to many places in the country) inexpensive shuttles go to Xela several times a day. They usually go to Antigua but stop on the way there in Xela. Alternatively you can get on a micro to Comitán , take a micro from there to the border at La Mesilla, get on a chicken bus to Huehuetenango , and from there to Xela.
• From Tapachula in Mexico, micros run frequently to the border between Ciudad Hidalgo and Tecún Umán from where there are frequent buses until the early afternoon to Coatepeque and from there chicken buses (Q18) to Xela. As the service on both connections in Guatemala terminates relatively early in the afternoon, you should try to leave early in Tapachula.

Get around [ edit ]

Local buses [ edit ].

For travel around the countryside, the local buses are very reasonable. They can be entertaining and, at times, quite crowded. Do not plan on carrying much luggage with you on these: some buses have backpack storage above the seats, but most of the time you must store bags that do not fit on your lap on the top of the bus. While they are generally safe up there, they are at risk for weather.

These second-class buses will leave at regular times, but if you load your things on the bus, do not get off as the driver may leave without warning.

These buses at the main terminal do make other stops prior to leaving town (7th Street and 16th Avenue, for example).

• Panajachel - 11AM. This is the bus to the lake. Q30-35 for this trip. Otherwise take any bus to Guatemala City, and change at La Cuchilla (and possibly again in Sololá).
• San Pedro La Laguna - 11:30, 12:00, 13:00, 14:00, 16:00 & 17:30
• San Marcos - 04:00-20:00 Frequent
• Cantel & Zunil - 06:00-19:00 Frequent buses
• Huehuetenango - 04:00-18:00 Frequent.
• La Mesilla border with Mexico at 07:00, 08:00, 10:00, 14:15
• Retalhuleu & Champerico - 04:30-19:30
• Santa Cruz del Quiché - Leaves hourly, 08:00-16:30

Minibuses [ edit ]

The city has grown enormously in the 2000s. Minibus routes thread through all parts of the city and, although cramped, cost only Q1.25. The bus costs the same but is slower and less frequent.

When using the minibus to get to Pradera (the large mall with a movie theatre and a supermarket) walk a couple of blocks away from central park and at the side of Pasaje Enriquez to catch the van. The guy will call "Hiper Hiper Hiper" and it is Q1.25 in the day and Q3 at night. This same van also drops you at La Democracia Market Utz Ulew Mall and Montblanc Mall (a slightly smaller mall which also has a supermarket).

This is also the van that you catch to get to the Chicken Bus terminal that takes you to Antigua or Panajachel. Most people tell you to get off at the Roman Columns-Minerva Terminal. You can ask someone where the bus station is or just walk north for 4-5 blocks or you can get down at Pradera and walk along side to the east again 4 or 5 blocks until you reach the bus terminal (exert caution).

Taxis [ edit ]

Taxis are relatively common around the city, especially around nightlife hot spots. At night, it is not safe to walk around, so taxis are highly recommended, especially if you are by yourself. Catch a taxi on a public square rather than on one of the side streets and note its number. Negotiate the cost of the ride before you leave. If the driver seems sketchy to you, make a reasonable excuse and do not take it, also that is the most safe way to get around especially to catch a bus to Antigua or any other place if you carr a big backpack.

See [ edit ]

• Market ( La Democracia ). The main market in the city is in Zona 3, covering various city blocks around the covered market, with an enormous variety of produce at cheaper prices than in formal shops (often for identical products). The covered market itself occupies the block between 15 Avenida and 16 Avenida, and 2 and 3 Calle, Zona 3. Fresh meat is sold inside the covered market, fruit and vegetables outside. Clothes, shoes, and toys are mostly sold outside. Many buses and microbuses pass the market, usually breviated to "La Demo". On the north side of the market is the attractive Parque Benito Juárez, with the San Nicolás Church on its east side. ( updated Feb 2016 )

Historical center [ edit ]

The town conserves traces of the colonial period in its streets and avenues. The classical, neoclassical and Italian renaissance styles are evident in the buildings and the houses which have been built during the past century and the beginning of the 20th, with volcanic stones by artistic "Quetzalteco" masons. Some examples of architectural styles:

• Espiritu Santo Cathedral consists of two structures. The "Espiritu Santo" parish's ancient facade (1535/1896) and to the back the "Diócesis de los Altos" (1899).
• The Municipal Theatre is a very important Neoclassical work.
• The Central America park (known as "Parque Central): Situated in the old centre of the town is also centre of cultural activities and amusements.
• The Enrique Passage : commercial building from 1900 facing the central park.
• Gobernacion : one block from the central park.
• Municipal Palace : overlooking the park on the east side.
• Central market : one block below the cathedral, with a number of handicraft shops selling souvenirs, and with food and drink available below.
• Natural History Museum A small local museum on the south side of the park, with a collection of curiosities including a few Maya archaeological finds (mostly ceramics).
• The Cerro del Baúl , where one can have a beautiful view of Quetzaltenango's valley, day or night (accessible by foot, car or taxi).

Cultural activities [ edit ]

• Occidental Cultural Centre ( La Casa de la Cultura de Occidente )
• Alliance Française de Quetzaltenango , numerous activities are scheduled all year.
• Artisans' market : The first Sunday of each month, the "Quetzaltecos" install the artisans' market in the central park where handcrafts from Quetzaltenago and surrounding villages are displayed.
• Annual fair and festival : September 12-18

Do [ edit ]

• Study Spanish . Quetzaltenango is well known for its Spanish schools, with a great many available, concentrated in the historic centre of the city. Classes are given on a 1:1 basis, usually with study in the morning and tourist activities in the afternoon, and accommodation provided with a local family. ( updated Feb 2016 )
• La Pradera ( Hiper ). Shopping mall with multi-screen cinema that screens the latest Hollywood releases, usually dubbed in Spanish, but occasionally subtitled. ( updated Feb 2016 )

Volunteering [ edit ]

There are hundreds of volunteer opportunities with organizations and groups in and around Xela, ranging from one-day projects to long-term placements.

Many of the schools listed above offer opportunities for their students. For other volunteer opportunities, see this list:

• Asociación de Mujeres del Altiplano .  
• Asociación Nuevos Horizontes , women's and children´s rights non-profit organization.
• El Nahual Community Center . Offers volunteer teaching opportunities in schools around Xela. Non-profit. All are welcome at the weekly organizational meeting held Monday at 17:30 at the Blue Angel Café.  
• Entremundos , [email protected] . Database of local opportunities by a non-profit organization, accessible for free. Additional services, including housing, are available with a donation.  
• La Pedrera Community Project . A non-profit project that offers volunteer work and internships with an indigenous community.  
• Celas Maya Spanish School , 6a calle 14-55, zona 1 , ☏ +502 77658205 . ( updated Jun 2016 )

Outdoors [ edit ]

Xela is well known for its abundance of volcanoes, mountains, and hot springs.

• A number of different Tour operators among them Adrenalina Tours organizes daily shuttles to the Fuentes Georginas hot springs in the town of Zunil , to areas for hiking and trekking, cultural tours in indigenous villages, walking city tours, or to the tours of the cemetery and beer factory. There are also shuttles to and from most places in Guatemala, and Tapachula and San Cristobal de las Casas in Mexico, or Copán Ruinas in Honduras. This service is equipped (in the case of Adrenalina Tours and some others) with its own vehicles, bilingual drivers, and certified guides. Offices for all of them are located around Central Park and Adrenalina Tours on the west side of the central park, on Pasaje Enriquez. Information: [email protected]
• Caminando Guatemala Specialized tour operator for treks and hikes, on the third floor above Adrenalina. They organize daily hikes to the local volcanoes of Santa Maria, Chicabal, and Santiaguito. They can also arrange multi-day expeditions.
• Quetzaltrekkers offers trips to local natural wonders at reasonable prices, and extended treks to Lago de Atitlan and the Cuchumatanes. All guides are either foreign volunteers or local Guatemalans. All profits go towards La Escuela de la Calle, a school in the poorest neighborhood of Xela.
• 14.8559 -91.5338 2 Mayan Gateway , 13 calle 32-23 zona 3 Quetzaltenango , ☏ +502 77669275 , [email protected] . 09:00-17:00 . Mayan Gateway: local tour operator for tours and hikes to the volcanoes and mountains close by. They also offer shuttles service throughout the country. ( updated Sep 2020 )

Dance [ edit ]

The salsa, Bachata scene is very active in Xela. Lessons are cheap and there are lots of clubs.

Learn [ edit ]

Xela is an excellent place to take language lessons (both Spanish and some of the Mayan languages specific to the area). There are various schools and NGOs in the city most offer rates based on one week of instruction (approx. 5 hours per day). Some schools offer volunteer opportunities for an additional cost while others offer it for free. Most also offer home stay options, which is an excellent way to make sure you keep practicing at all times. One of the best reasons to learn in Xela is the price. You can expect to pay about US$140-160 per week including home stay. This often includes internet access at the school. Arrangements can be made ahead of time or upon arrival (most schools have multilingual administrators who can help make arrangements via email or phone - some even offer airport pick up from Guatemala City).

• Casa Xelaju tel 612 235 4307
• Celas Maya tel (502) 7761-4342
• Centro Bilingue Amerindia , 12 Avenida 10-27, Zona 1 , ☏ +502-7761-8535 . Founded in 1989, CBA is one of the oldest language schools in Xela. Its university-trained instructors teach classes in Spanish as well as Mayan languages in a family environment. School profits go to various development projects.  
• Centro Maya Xela
• Educacion para Todos
• El Nahual Language School 100% Non-Profit Volunteer Led Organization
• El Mundo en Español
• El Portal Spanish School [dead link] A well-recommended, professional, good value and friendly, non-profit institution which uses fees to support the kids of single mothers through a scholarship program.
• Escuela de Español Utatlan , [email protected] . Highly recommended school by the city's central park, with a friendly atmosphere and very reasonable class rates. Discounts for longer stay and opportunities to teach English in the school to local students.  
• Guatemalensis Spanish School A fairly inexpensive option with excellent coordinators. Great planned activities and sense of community.
• ICA [dead link]
• Guatemala Kamalbe Spanish School in Xela tel (502) 54888 317
• La Comunidad Spanish School [dead link] Very good school with English speaking teachers. Also the cheapest rates in the entire city, even US$65 per week cheaper than some! Excellent volunteering activities also.
• La Democracia
• La Paz [dead link]
• Madre Tierra
• Miguel Angel Asturias Spanish School . Offers one-on-one classes, homestay with meals, many volunteer opportunities, and specialized instruction. Optional medical Spanish program with clinic and hospital volunteering. University credit available.
• Miguel Cervantes School of Spanish
• Minerva [dead link]
• Pop Wuj - Spanish School Guatemala Non-Profit Organization run by teachers to support sustainable community development. Provides One-to-One Spanish Instruction, Medical Spanish, Volunteering Spanish for Social workers; There is a clinic supported by the Timmy Foundation located under the school. Medical students come to work at the clinic and learn or improve their Spanish. Living arrangements usually with community based families.
• Proyecto Linguistico Quetzalteco [dead link]
• Sakribal Spanish School 6a Calle 7-31
• Ulew Tinimit Spanish School [dead link] tel (502) 77630516.

Buy [ edit ]

There are many opportunities to buy goods in Xela. Mayans will approach you, especially in parks, about selling purses, bags and blankets in the local styles. Markets occur regularly in and around Xela. Remember to negotiate prices-- walking away is often a good way to get the price down a bit.

During the monthly market at the Parque Central on the first Sunday of the month, a row of vendor booths is set up in front of the Municipal building & Catholic Cathedral (east side of the park) with vendors mainly selling local products. Showing interest & walking away typically elicits price offers at around half of the original quote. For example: my wife decided against a Mayan tablecloth that was originally quoted at Q250 (a reasonable price) and the vendor's wife proceeded to follow us around the park for a while coming down to Q100 eventually before accepting that my wife simply had decided not to purchase at any price.

Eat [ edit ]

• Churrasquería Cajola This place is bare bones, dirt cheap, and delicious. You can get carne asada, with tortillas, beans, and cabbage for 10 quetzales (USD $1.25). A soft drink will cost another 4 or 5 quetzales. Located just east of Cervecería Nacional, next to the small roundabout.
• Sabor de La India A great Indian meal from Q40 to 70, plus drink. Address is 15 Avenida 3-64, Zona 1, next to Vrisa Bookstore
• Comida Taiwanesa Their specialty is the Taiwanese empanada which is entirely vegetarian. They're Q3.00 a piece and two will make a decent size snack. They also sell soy milk and snow cones with all kinds of toppings. Located south of the Parque Central on 8a calle between 8a avenida and 9a avenida.
• Café Museo La Luna has the best hot chocolate (spicy!), and decent food (some original takes on local ingredients & dishes) too. They are closed on Sunday. They are located off the east side of central park on 8a Av between 4a and 5a Calle. Around the corner on 4a Calle, is Bajo la Luna that has an excellent wine selection (seriously) and cheese plates.
• La Red Kat is located in Zona 1 on 3a Calle just west of 15a Av. and has delicious coffee, excellent salads (spinach - no iceberg lettuce thankfully), sandwiches, pasta, soups, tipico meals, and wine for only 15Q a glass. They are closed on Sunday.
• El Cuartito Cafe is located at the intersection of 7 Calle 7 & 13 Avenida, Zone 1, a block from the SW corner of Parque Central, across from the supermarket La Despensa Familiar. Open daily 8AM-11PM. This cozy & trendy modern-art-decorated cafe serves amazing coffee drinks (Q10-23 using 100% organic & fair-trade Xela cooperative produced coffee), teas (Q15-20), hot chocolate (Q12-17), alcoholic (mojitos - Q20; wine - Q16; commercial beer - Q15; artisan beer - Q30; Irish coffee - Q200), excellent pastries, breakfast plates (Q20-35), and great snacks (chips & salsa - Q15, nachos - Q25, quesadilla - Q20). Free Wi-Fi. Live music often.
• Restaurant y Mirador Panorama , 13 Avenida A, D16-44, Zona 1 , ☏ +502 5319-3536 , +502 7765-8580 . Tu-F 17:00-23:00, Sa Su 13:00-23:00 . Amazing view overlooking central Xela (beside Iglesia Monte Sinai). Sit outside on the lawn as you gaze across the Quetzaltenango valley at the mountains all around. Excellent for celebrating an occasion or impressing that special someone. Specializing in Swiss cuisine and serving delicious fondues, raclette, sandwiches, pizzas, hamburgers & more. Q25-110 .  
• Baviera Cafe , 5a Calle 13-14, Zona 1 ( 1 block west of central park ), ☏ +502 78799958 . 07:00-20:30 . This charming cafe/restaurant offers tables, a lounge/sofa area, flat-screen TV showing sporting events. Serves wonderful teas (from Q6), locally sourced & roasted coffee drinks (from Q8), hot chocolate (from Q12), milk shakes (from Q20), juices/horchata/sodas/beers (from Q10) as well as soups (from Q20), sandwiches (from Q25), salads (from Q25), pastries (from Q20), snacks (from Q8), and breakfasts (from Q20). Free Wi-Fi internet to paying customers (passcode=11111aaaaa). There are also 3 other locations in Xela.  

Drink [ edit ]

Don't drink the tap water. Some hostels will have a water filter, which many drink from, and it seems to be safe. Otherwise, drink purified water (agua pura).

Cabro, which some consider one of the best beers in the world, is made locally in Quetzaltenango. Another local beer, Gallo, is more like the Bud Lite of Guatemala -- bland, available everywhere, and sponsoring everything.

If you like dark beer, try the Moza, another local beer, it's some people's favorite. Shop at the liquor store and return Moza bottles for credit but not all bottles will receive a 1 Q credit.

• El Cuartito Cafe is located at the intersection of 7 Calle 7 & 13 Avenida, Zone 1, a block from the SW corner of Parque Central, across from the supermarket La Despensa Familiar. This cozy & trendy modern-art-decorated cafe serves amazing coffee drinks (Q10-23 using 100% organic & fair-trade Xela cooperative produced coffee), teas (Q15-20), hot chocolate (Q12-17), and many alcoholic beverages (mojitos - Q20; wine - Q16; commercial beer - Q15; several styles of artisan beer - Q30; Irish coffee - Q200). Free Wi-Fi. Open daily 8AM-11PM. Live music often.
• Baviera Cafe , 5a Calle 13-14, Zona 1 ( 1 block west of central park ), ☏ +502 78799958 . 07:00-20:30 . This charming cafe/restaurant offers tables, a lounge/sofa area, flat-screen TV showing sporting events. Serves wonderful teas (from Q6), locally sourced & roasted coffee drinks (from Q8), hot chocolate (from Q12), milk shakes (from Q20), juices/horchata/sodas/beers (from Q10) and food (see "Eat" section). Free Wi-Fi internet to paying customers (passcode=11111aaaaa). There are also 3 other locations in Xela.  

Sleep [ edit ]

Quetzaltenango has a variety of accommodations for a variety of budgets, though world travelers will find the prices and facilities in the "high end" accommodations more like that of mid-range places in larger world cities. It is best to always ask to see your room before moving in to it; whether budget or more pricey, some rooms in the same place can often be much better or worse than others. At cheaper places don't expect hot water or heat unless you ask for it; in some the "heat" may be wood to put in a fireplace that you have to order and pay for by the bundle.

Budget [ edit ]

• Casa Argentina , Diagonal 12 8-37 . Friendly and central, very close to a small fruit and vegetable market. Home of Quetzaltrekkers, a non-profit trekking company. It has a wi-fi (or use their computer), kitchen (a bit dirty and run down), hot water (use the top one - hottest, and it's solar (?)). Q25 for a Dorm room, Q35 for a single room. If you are going to be in Xela by the week tell Leanora when you pay-May 2010-there is a weekly rate at least for the private room with bath. Some find this a great kicked back place, but do check your mattress for signs of bed bugs.  
• Casa Doña Mercedes , ☏ +502 5687-3305 , [email protected] . is off to the southeast corner of central parque at the corner of 6a Calle and 14 Av. The rooms run US$11/night for the shared room, $70/week for a private room (both with shared bath), and $110/week for a private room/bath. The private baths hot water coming from a water heater. There is a sun room, kitchen, TV in the rooms, and the staff cleans your room every day. Also, they will do your laundry for 30Q/load.  
• Hotel Casa del Viajero ( [email protected] ), 8 av. 9-17 zona 1 , ☏ +502 77614594 , +502 77615297 . Well-known colonial style traveler's home located in the historic center, a few blocks from Central Park. Offers: rooms with private bath, hot water, cable TV, Wi-Fi, breakfast and dinner, parking, Event room. Prices start at Q75 per person in single, double or triple rooms. US$10+ .  

Mid-range [ edit ]

• Hotel Pension Bonifáz , 4a. Calle 10-50 Zona 1 ( Just off the Central Square ), ☏ +502 761 4241 . One of Xela's top hotels since 1935. Convenient location; offers parking for those who came with a car. On the pricey side for Quetzaltenango. Even if you decide to stay somewhere cheaper, you may wish to stop by the fashionable bar and restaurant for a meal or a cocktail.  
• 14.838046 -91.521453 1 Hotel Modelo , 14 Ave A 2-31 zone 1 , ☏ +502 77612529 . Check-in: 14:00 , check-out: 12:00 . Owned and operated by the same family for over 100 year the Hotel Modelo offers old world charm in the heart of Quetzaltenango. US$30 up .  
• Casa Xelajú , Callejón 15, Diagonal 13-02, Zona 1 , [email protected] . Offers two-story house for rent and 10 apartments with big windows where you can see the city, mountains and volcanoes. They are completely furnished including central heated water, washing machine, a dining room, living room, full kitchen and three bedrooms/one bedroom, two bedrooms and balconies. Located five minutes walking distance from the Central Park, in the Historic Center of the City. Free unlimited high speed Wifi, 24/7 US$35/day for the house which include three bedrooms .  
• Guesthouse El Puente , 6a Calle 14-55 Zona 1 ( http://www.celasmaya.edu.gt/how-to-get-here.html [dead link] ), ☏ +502 7761-4342 . Located in the rear part of the main Celas Maya Spanish school building/facility, a small hostel used primarily for student residency. Each room accommodates 1-3 guests. Kitchen is shared and fully equipped. Beautiful private sunny garden. 4 ample sized rooms, 1 with private bathroom (Q65/day or Q1650/month) & the other 3 with a shared full service bathroom (Q50/day or Q1350/month). .  

Splurge [ edit ]

• Casa San Bartolomé, B&B , 2da ave. 7-17 zona 1, Barrio San Bartolomé ( one block from Parque Bolívar, take 6ta, Calle from Parque Central ), ☏ +502 7761-9511 , [email protected] . A quiet, clean and comfortable bed & breakfast with very nice gardens. The hotel has six bedrooms and two equipped and furnished apartments, all with private bathrooms and enough hot water. Rates include full breakfasts to select from a six options menu. Special rates for longer stays. Free Wi-Fi. Q205-350 .  
• Hotel El Centro , 10 calle 11-69 zona 1 , ☏ +502 77631357 , +502 77650620 . 3 blocks from Central Park with 24-hr reception. Rooms have hot water, cable, wi-fi internet & free parking. Towels & bed linens included. Visa cards accepted. From Q130 per person, breakfast included. Children under 5 are free. .  
• Casa Latina , Diagonal 12, 6-58, Zona 1 , ☏ +502 5613-7222 . beautiful, new guesthouse, just a few minutes walk to Parque Central and bars/restaurants. Las Flores market is across the street! Casa Latina has a friendly, home-like atmosphere. 2 floors, each with 4 rooms. Both floors have bathroom, kitchen, living room & balcony. Spanish School Sol Latino is just a stone’s throw away, www.spanishschoolsollatino.com Includes wi-fi internet access, parking, bed linens, smoking area, & travel info. Available services include laundry & airport transport. Per night: US$7 for 1 person or $10 for 2 people, per week: $35 for 1 person or $48 for 2 people, or per 4 weeks: $122 for 1 person or $173 for 2 people. $30 deposit per room (returned at checkout if room in good condition) .  
• 7 Orejas Hostal , 2a. Calle 16-92 zona 1 , ☏ +502 7768-3218 , +502 5207-3006 . Check-in: 2PM , check-out: noon . A quiet & friendly environment in a cozy atmosphere with rooms decorated in Guatemalan style. Located in the historic district with easy access to cafes, discotheques, bars, travel agencies, Spanish schools, et al. Wireless Internet, Cable TV, private bathrooms, security storage (bring your own lock), linens & towels, reading light, luggage storage, free continental breakfast, free coffee, tea & drinking water all day, 24 hours reception, Parking with reservation. Restrictions: No pets, no smoking, no drugs, no visitors in rooms. Dorm bed (8 available) - Q65/US$9 pp. Single room - Q150/$20 (weekly - Q840/$112, biweekly - Q1400/$187, monthly - Q2550/$340). Double room - Q230/$31 (weekly - Q1295/$173, biweekly - Q2170/$290, monthly - Q3900/$520. Triple room - Q285/$38 (weekly - Q1690/$225, biweekly - Q2800/$374, monthly - Q5100/$680) .  
• Kiktem-Ja , 13 Av 7-18 | Zona 1, Quetzaltenango, Guatemala ( across from Cuartido about 2 blocks from Parque Central ). Check-in: 12:00 , check-out: 12:00 . Clean and comfortable. You may be able to get a discount if you stay a while. The location is unbeatable -- two blocks from Parque Central. Hot showers with good pressure and televisions in the room with both Espanol and English channels. Q160 .  

Connect [ edit ]

Internet cafes [ edit ].

There are dozens of Internet cafes in Xela and free wifi hot spots.

• Xela Pages - Computer time rental, printing, scanning, cd/DVD burning, fax service, Skype booth with mic and camera. Price from US$0.40 cent/hour up to $1.25/hour - in front of Parque El Calvario 4ta Calle 19-48, Zona 1
• Alternativas Computer time rental, printing & scanning, Price from $0.50 cent/hour up to $1.50/hour. In front of Parque Benito Juarez - Zona 3

Stay safe [ edit ]

Cope [ edit ], consulates [ edit ], go next [ edit ].

It may be possible to arrange a tour of the Gallo brewery by calling ahead.

You can spend hours in and around the Mercado de la Democracia in the commercial center of Xela. It is where the locals shop for most of their needs.

Any concert is worth attending in the Municipal Theater. It is beautiful inside.

Evening marimba concerts are often given on the steps of the Municipalidad on the west side of Parque Centro America.

Walk around town. In the side streets, you'll often come upon a master giving guitar lessons or a group of men practicing Marimba.

Go to a football game: Xelaju M. C. vs anyone. The crowd is animated and the fireworks alone can be worth the price of admission. Don't pay extra for the high priced seats, they remove you from much of the fun. Try to sit in the corner near the band. A "Xelaju M. C." flag to wave costs Q10. Grilled sausages are less. No alcohol permitted in the stadium.

Fireworks! If it's your birthday, or you just feel like it, spend a couple of Quetzals for a big string of firecrackers. You'll normally hear them any evening or early morning. Bring your ear plugs: they usually sound off about 04:00. They are called God Bombs and are used to wake God so He will hear your prayer. It definitely wakes the dogs who bark till the roosters wake and cock-a-doodle-doo until they figure out it is not dawn. Ear plugs.

Weekend nights are also an option, you will find night clubs in all the center, from the Central Park, to the Theatre, for Q30 you can get in anywhere and drink something. Also in some seasons the "14A" is closed to the traffic because of some music festival, concerts, street art exhibitions etc.

Attractions [ edit ]

• Zunil is 9 km from Quetzaltenango. Monday is market day. Located on the Samala river and on the main highway leading down the coast, Zunil's people wear attractive clothes made by hand using traditional techniques featuring intricate designs and bright colors. This picturesque town is the center for the worship of "Maximon" or "San Simon" a life-sized mannequin endowed with occult power: Just 8 km from town on the slopes of the inactive Zunil volcano would have found the beautiful "Fuentes Georginas" thermal springs, equipped with restaurant and bungalows.
• Fuentes Georginas have a dual admission policy charging foreigners twice what they charge locals. The restaurant closes at 18:30 and doesn't serve anything but huevos (eggs) and meager salads after 18:00. The accommodations are rather spartan by any standards but is downright ridiculous for the Q320/night. However, the room rate includes admission to the pools for two days. It is recommended to take the bus into Zunil early and spend the day at the springs, heading back home at sundown. Admission to the pools for tourists is Q60/day.

Destinations [ edit ]

The "Quetzaltecos" villages of Quiche and Mam origins, have small places with impressive colonial style churches where the tourist will see the regional handcrafts displayed on market days.

• Salcajá : 9 km from Quetzaltenango. Market day: Tuesday. local festival on 25 August. Here was constructed the church of San Jacinto, the first of the religious constructions of the region and a beautiful example of colonial architecture. Also famous for its hand-woven "jaspe" materials and unique alcoholic beverages known as "caldo de fruta" " and "rompopo" .
• San Juan Ostuncalco 12 km from Quetzaltenango. Situated in a valley of the mountainous region, it is the commercial centre for the Mam-speaking villages which border the department. Here you may acquire musicals instruments, wicker furniture as well as lovely hand woven materials.
• Almolonga 5 km from Quetzaltenango. Market on Wednesday and Saturday. Annual festival 26-29 June. Known for its variety of vegetables which are cultivated on the smell farms which surround the village. You will also enjoy thermal springs such as "Las aguas amargas" and "El rosario" .
• Cantel 10 km from Quetzaltenango. Visit the interesting cooperative for handmade blown glass. Chojolom, a small K'iche' archaeological site is located on a hill just outside the village. For a guide, ask at the Municipal offices, in a temporary location in a sidestreet to the right of the Catholic church. K'iaqbal is another small archaeological site with a couple of sculpted stones, on a hilltop past the new General Cemetery.
• Olintepeque  : 7 km from Quetzaltenango. The place where according to legend, the famous Maya-Quiche prince Tecún Uman died in battle against Pedro de Alvarado in 1524.
• San Andres Xecul  : 7 km from Quetzaltenango, in the direction of the "Cuatro Caminos" highway junction, with a colonial-style whose facade is both colorful and picturesque.
• Volcán Santa Maria , 12,256 feet & Santiaguito . The summit of the Santa Maria Volcano lies at the end of the steep 3-4 hours climb from the village of Llanos del Pinal (located 6 km away from Quetzaltenango). You'll best enjoy the truly awesome view during the clearer weather of the early morning hours. The whole coastal plain lies at your feet, along with the cities of Quetzaltenago and Tapachula, Mexico. You can look down into the very active Santiaguito crater which erupts at least once every hour. You can still enjoy the view minus the ragged hike by driving to the top of the adjacent Siete Orejas Volcano . (10,384 feet above sea level). To get there, grab a chicken bus for 3 GTQ (Jan 2023) at triangle in front of Iglesia del Calvario, and drop off almost at the end of Llanos del Pinal which is about 100-200 meters from the trailhead, then just follow the track on Organic Maps app or OsmAnd app. On the trail forks, quite often there are markings where to follow.
• La laguna de Chicabal , 3 hours by foot from the village of San Martin Sacatepequez (also known as Chile Verde) (14 km from Quetzaltenango). At this very picturesque crater lake, the sorcerers of the whole region meet on the 3rd of may.

The High Country [ edit ]

• Totonicapan Near Quetzaltenango, you have to visit the principal town Totonicapan (in the department of the same name). Known for its hand woven textiles and its potteries, and production of wooden masks for traditional dances.
• San Francisco El Alto Friday this is the site of the Central America's largest market. If you can buy it in Guatemala, you can buy it here, although there is very little aimed specifically at tourists. If you can, drop by the cathedral and see if someone will take you up on the roof for a bird's-eye view of what's going on.

If you go here be on the look out for pick pockets. Also if you have a camera keep it in your hand since a swish of the knife will cut a strap and you will not even know it till you start to take a photo.

• Momostenango : Wednesday & Sunday: Market. This curious "Riscos de Oro", rock formation produced by erosion.
• San Cristobal Totonicapan Church and Convent of the XVII.

Toward the Coast [ edit ]

• El Palmar Town destroyed by Santiaguito Volcano. Lagoons and tropical vegetation.
• Retalhuleu 62 km, Cuyotenango y Coatepeque 120 km from Quetzaltenango. Swimming pool and tropical climate.

Pacific Beach [ edit ]

• Champerico , Tilapa , Las Delicias , Tulate .

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Xela to Lake Atitlan 3-Day Hike: The Ultimate Guide

The Xela to Lake Atitlan hike is a magnificent multi-day trek through the mountainous region of southwestern Guatemala. You may have heard of the Quetzaltenango to Lake Atitlan trek which is exactly the same hike (Xela and Quetzaltenango are actually the same place). Across three spectacular days, you will get a taste of rural Guatemala and its culture as you explore remote villages – seeing a side of the country that many travellers do not. You will enjoy breathtaking views of the surrounding landscapes, including an epic sunrise over Lake Atitlan during the Indian Nose hike. And to top it off, you will get a proper leg-burner of a workout!

This guide will cover a detailed breakdown of each of the three days of the hike, including the Indian Nose hike on the last day. Plus every single tip and piece of advice I could possibly think of to help you prepare for these three days!

About the Xela to Lake Atitlan Hike

Walk type: Multi-day trek Total Distance: 42km Maximum Elevation: 3050m Minimum Elevation: 1500m Walk time: Day 1 (9 hours), Day 2 (5 hours), Day 3 (5 hours) Difficulty: Hard Highlights: Indian Nose sunrise, traditional Temescal

The Xela to Lake Atitlan hike is definitely one of the lesser-known hikes in Guatemala. It’s almost exclusively completed by tourists since most local people wouldn’t bother. With this lack of footfall and remoteness, some of the jungle pathways are not well-maintained.

The majority of the hike takes place on dirt trails, meandering through the jungle and up and over mountains, making the elevation change quite significant. There is a small amount of hiking on the roadside.

Unlike other hikes, there is not one specific trail to follow from Xela to Lake Atitlan. Different tour companies take slightly different routes. These all cover approximately the same distance and across similar terrain.

Before we go any further, it’s important to understand that Xela (pronounced ‘Shay-la) has two names that can be used interchangeably. Quetzaltenango is the official name of the city and is what you will see on maps or signs around Guatemala. It loosely translates to “place of the quetzal birds”. Xela is the city’s Mayan name meaning “under ten mountains.” Thankfully Xela is the one more commonly used by locals since it’s much easier to say!

Xela is the second-largest city in Guatemala and is located around 4 hours west of the capital, Guatemala City. It’s made up of a colonial-style center expanding into a far-spanning urban sprawl, all amidst a series of stunning mountains and volcanoes. Standing at 2300m (7546ft) above sea level, Xela is also Guatemala’s highest-altitude city, making it noticeably cooler than the rest of the country.

Despite its proximity to Guatemala’s most popular destinations (Lake Atitlan or Antigua), Xela still remains somewhat off the beaten track. Perhaps it lacks some of Antigua’s charm or Lake Atitlan’s beauty. But what it may lack in those aspects, Xela makes up for with an abundance of character and authenticity. When wandering the streets, you won’t really see other travellers or backpackers. The population is predominantly indigenous Maya or mixed-race people, meaning that traditional Guatemalan life comes to the fore. This means vibrant dress, friendly people, and a close link to its historic past.

About Lake Atitlan

Lake Atitlan, also known as Lago de Atitlan, is located in the south of Guatemala around 40 kilometers east of Xela. This crater lake, formed approximately 85,000 years ago by a volcanic eruption, has an area of 130 kilometers squared and is the deepest lake in Central America.

This enormous, blue lake surrounded by volcanoes and mountains, is home to a number of towns and villages, secluded in the foothills. Each has its own unique character and individuality, from the laid-back hippie vibes of San Marcos to the backpacker scene in San Pedro (where the hike ends). They are all closely connected by a network of boats.

Unlike Xela, Lake Atitlan is one of Guatemala’s most popular tourist destinations, with plenty to keep you busy. The area boasts an array of hiking, good food, and yoga retreats, as well as postcard-worthy views! Because of this, Lake Atitlan is a place where many travellers decide to settle for a longer period of time, whether to learn Spanish; work as a digital nomad, or delve deeper into its towns.

How long does it take to hike from Xela to Lake Atitlan?

It takes 3 days to hike from Xela to Lake Atitlan. The total time spent actually walking over these three days is approximately 19 hours.

Is the hike safe?

The multi-day trek to Lake Atitlan is relatively safe, particularly with a guide with local knowledge. Robberies have been known to occur on hiking trails in Guatemala, particularly on the Indian Nose hike. That being said, there wasn’t a moment of the 3-day hike that I felt unsafe. Nor had my guide ever experienced any trouble in all his time as a guide on this route.

How much does it cost to do the Xela to Lake Atitlan hike?

Prices for the hike range from 750Q to 1000Q, depending on the company that you book with. The most popular companies, Quetzaltrekkers and Monte Verde, charge 950Q and 750Q respectively. This includes meals, accommodation, equipment, park entrance fees, and a guide.

Do you need hiking boots?

Ideally yes, you should wear hiking boots for the Xela to Lake Atitlan hike. However, if you don’t have any it is not the end of the world. Trainers or walking shoes with decent grip are sufficient for this hike. The most important thing is that they are comfortable as you will be walking in them for the next three days.

Can you hike the route in reverse, from Lake Atitlan to Xela?

Objectively, it is possible to hike from Lake Atitlan to Xela via the same route used for the normal hike. However, the main tour companies do not offer this route. Also hiking eastwards from Xela to Lake Atitlan has better views as you face the volcanoes in the east the whole time.

If you do want to finish in Xela, some tour companies offer return transport from Lake Atitlan to Xela.

How to get to Xela

Getting to xela from lake atitlan.

You have three options to get from Lake Atitlan to Xela; a direct bus, a public ‘chicken’ bus, or a private shuttle.

Direct buses run from Panajachel (Lake Atitlan) and head straight to the main bus terminal in Xela (Minerva). The service costs 30Q, though you may be asked for more (“Gringo tax”). There is also a direct bus that runs from San Pedro to Xela which costs approximately 35Q.

The cheapest way to get to Xela from Lake Atitlan is by chicken bus. The route requires two changes; first in Solola, and then in Los Encuentros. Take the bus from Panajachel to Solola, which should take around 20 minutes and cost 3Q. Then take the bus from Solola to Los Encuentros, which should take another 20 minutes and cost 2.5Q. From Los Encuentros, take a bus to Xela, which takes around 2 hours and costs 20Q.

The quickest and simplest (and most expensive) way to get to Xela is by booking a private shuttle. The journey should take around 2 hours in total. You can book shuttles through hostels, agencies, or online. You should expect to pay approximately 150Q.

Getting to Xela From Antigua

Once again, there are multiple options to get from Antigua to Xela.

The cheapest option is by chicken bus. Get on the bus at the main bus terminal on the west side of Antigua. You will need to change at either Chimaltenango or Los Encuentros. The bus will drop you at the main bus terminal in Xela (Minerva).

By private shuttle, the journey from Antigua to Xela should take just over 3 hours. Expect to pay approximately 175Q-200Q. These can also be arranged through your hostel or online.

Guided Tour vs Hiking Independently

Most of the time, I am very pro-hiking independently. However, this multi-day trek should be done with a guide , for the reasons outlined below.

NOTE: Several companies give back to the communities along the route, meaning that you will also be helping support the communities and local businesses by booking this hike with a guided tour.

As mentioned, the Xela to Lake Atitlan hike is largely safe. However, having a guide that knows the local area and villages, can speak Spanish, and has experience hiking the route is extremely valuable. Though I didn’t feel unsafe at any point throughout the three days, having someone to lead when avoiding any dogs, passing through private land, or navigating a more treacherous section of the hike is helpful. Plus any robberies on the Indian Nose Hike were avoided by taking an alternative route that our guide knew.

The route from Xela to Lake Atitlan is made up of a series of small interconnected tracks which makes it difficult to navigate unless you know exactly where you’re going. Unfortunately, there are no online directions or maps of the route. The closest you will find to a route for the Xela to Lake Atitlan hike is the map I created below.

Though I’m sure it is possible to get there independently, having a guide to lead you through any less obvious sections is helpful.

Without the homestay arrangements of the tour, I honestly couldn’t tell you where it would be possible to sleep. The tour companies have built close relationships with each of the villages to set up homestays, without this, there are no accommodation options in Komonoj for the first night of the hike.

Camping would be your only alternative. However, as you trek through the jungle, private property, and farmland, it’s difficult to pitch up a tent knowing for certain that it would be safe and acceptable.

Who to book the Xela to Lake Atitlan Hike with?

There are two main tour operators used for the Xela to Lake Atitlan hike. These are Quetzaltrekkers and Monteverde. Both offer largely the same experience; both require a deposit; both can provide gear, and both allow you to send your unwanted bags to Lake Atitlan. But here are the key differences:

Quetzaltrekkers is arguably the most popular company to book the hike with. They run their tours on Tuesdays and Saturdays which costs 950Q (120 USD) per person. They have a minimum group size of 5 people, making it a sociable hike. The company is volunteer-run, with all profits going into the community by supporting schools and shelters in Xela. During the hike, you are required to carry your own sleeping gear as well as your belongings for three days. They offer bag transport directly to Lake Atitlan for 100Q per bag. There is also a mandatory pre-brief for the hike at 6pm the day beforehand.

Monte Verde is less well-known, and slightly cheaper, costing 750Q (100 USD) per person. You can book a tour on any day of the week, as long as the total group has more than 2 people in total. Sleeping bags and roll mats were provided at each location rather than carrying them. They also offer free transport of additional bags to Lake Atitlan.

I personally opted for Monte Verde Tours and had a great experience. But spoke to several others who booked the hike with Quetzaltrekkers and also had a fantastic time.

What to Expect Hiking from Xela to Lake Atitlan

Bear in mind that different tour operators have slightly different arrangements with slightly different routes. Since I opted for Monte Verde, this section will contain details specific to this but most operators do something largely similar. Different walking groups will go at different paces because of varying group sizes, break lengths, and the general mood and athleticism of the group.

Day 1: Xela to K’omonoj

Distance: 21km Walking Time: 9-10 hours Starting Elevation: 2550m Maximum Elevation: 3050m Minimum Elevation: 1550m Finishing Elevation: 2000m

On the first day, you will be picked up early (6am) from your accommodation in Xela and brought to the tour operator’s office. I recommend arriving in Xela the night before to ensure you don’t miss anything and can prepare everything you need for the next three days. Plus you will get more time to explore Xela!

NOTE: For anyone hiking with Quetzaltrekkers, arriving the day before means you won’t miss your 6pm briefing!

Before you set off, you will be briefed, bags checked and food supplies shared amongst you. This is your chance to trade out any gear that you may want to borrow such as rucksacks or clothes, as well as make arrangements for any unnecessary belongings to be sent to Lake Atitlan.

Once the group is ready, you will hop in a minivan to the start point of Xecam. We left at around 6:30am. Xecam is approximately 30 minutes drive to the edge of the city, at an altitude of 2550m. You will wave goodbye to the bus and it’s time to start hiking (7am)!

It’s straight uphill for the first hour along a forest trail. Though it starts off cold, you will soon warm up and need to start losing layers. Near the top, there is a clearing with spectacular views over the surrounding mountain range. You will be able to see Volcan Santa Maria in the distance.

As you emerge from the trees into grasslands and farmlands, the gradient plateaus for a while. You will maintain your highest altitude of around 3050m at Nuevo Xetinamit.

After a few more ups and downs, we stopped for a late lunch in Chiri’j Ximay. We spent around 45 minutes here to rest, prepare our food and eat before setting off again. The food was basic (sandwiches with plenty of filling) but tasty and there was plenty to go around. There is a small shop here where we bought some warm electrolyte drinks and snacks.

NOTE: Some groups stay overnight in the village of Chiri’j Ximay if the weather is bad.

From Chiri’j Ximay it’s a long way down via thin, winding jungle pathways. It’s steep and dusty, making grip quite difficult. It’s perhaps the only section where I wished I had better shoes.

Eventually, you will reach a clearing for Rio Nahualate. There is a wooden bridge across the river, before one final push to the end of Day 1. It’s a 30-minute climb back up the other side of the valley to reach the homestay in the village of K’omonoj.

We arrived at our homestay at around 16:30pm and were ready for a relaxed evening.

K’Omonoj Homestay

K’omonoj is a small, isolated village sitting in the mountains just north of Pala and San Miguelito.

The setup of the homestay was a little courtyard-esque layout with buildings scattered around. The village didn’t have road access from any direction and it was clear from all the fruit and vegetables being grown that they were pretty self-sufficient.

After catching our breaths from the toughest of the three days’ hiking, we checked out our sleeping arrangements. We had a separate room where our roll mats and sleeping bags had been laid out on the floor.

In terms of facilities, the homestay had a cold shower; a flushing toilet; plug sockets, and a man to buy water from. Most importantly, it also had a temescal (a traditional Central American sauna) to relax our muscles!

The homestay owners allowed us to use their temescal for a small additional fee. The temescal could fit two people (3 at a push) in at a time.

Meanwhile, our guide very kindly made us tea and cooked dinner. It was nice to sit around a table and chat while we ate. However, after a long day of hiking we were exhausted so went to bed early.

Day 2: K’omonoj to Santa Clara La Laguna

Distance: 12km Walking Time: 5 hours Starting Elevation: 2000m Maximum Elevation: 2187m Minimum Elevation: 1900m Finishing Elevation: 2117m

Day 2 begins later than the first day, but it’s good to try and get out early to make the most of the cooler temperatures.

We headed uphill for most of the early part of the day. Then across undulating terrain for the next few hours. Nothing as steep or slippery as the day before.

As you get closer to civilisation, there is more dirt track and roadside hiking. That being said, the only traffic we came across was a horse carrying wood!

You will end day two of the Xela to Lake Atitlan hike in Santa Clara La Laguna, walking through the town to get to your homestay.

NOTE: If you are hiking with Quetzaltrekkers rather than Monte Verde, your overnight stay is in Xiprian on the outskirts of Santa Clara La Laguna.

Most groups arrive in the early afternoon at Santa Clara La Laguna, which is great for some downtime. After arriving at 13:30, we rested in our room for a while before heading into town to explore… and search for ice cream!

Santa Clara La Laguna Homestay

Our room in Santa Clara had a similar layout to the one in K’omonoj with roll mats and sleeping bags laid out on the floor. It wasn’t the most comfortable sleep in the world, but it was fine for the last night.

In terms of facilities, this homestay didn’t have a shower, but it did have another temescal which we washed in. It also didn’t have a flushing toilet, it was a bucket flush.

After another family dinner, we retreated to bed early because of the early start for sunrise the next morning.

Day 3: Santa Clara La Laguna to San Pedro La Laguna via the Indian Nose Sunrise Hike

Distance: 9km Time: 5-6 hours (including time at the top and breakfast) Starting Elevation: 2117m Maximum Elevation: 2200m Minimum Elevation: 1500m Finishing Elevation: 1500m

It’s an early wakeup for this part of the hike but’s worth it. We left the homestay in Santa Clara at 4:30am with all of our belongings as we weren’t coming back. At that time of the morning, it’s pitch black so a headtorch or phone light is necessary.

NOTE: Some groups come back to the homestay for breakfast so don’t need to carry their bags or pack up.

After a short, flat walk out of town, it was time to climb up to the viewpoint. It’s a steep, thin path to the top of the Indian Nose. There is a wooden handrail for parts of the hike and there are a couple of sections where a rope has been attached to help you up.

We arrived at the summit well before 6am and it was still completely dark. In the high season (Dec-March) sunrise is later than it is in the summer months. Check out the sunrise times here .

Up at the viewing point, there is a two-tiered wooden shelter and additional space to stand. Wrap up warm, make yourself comfortable, and wait for the sunrise. More people will trickle up to the viewpoint from sunrise tours from San Pedro, but you can look on smugly knowing you’ve walked all the way from Xela!

After eating our breakfast, taking plenty of photos, and enjoying the sunrise we headed back down at around 7:30 am. We definitely hung around longer than most since we were the last to leave and had the viewpoint all to ourselves!

We followed the thin path back down. It’s important to hold on and stay focused as it’s easy to lose concentration and slip when you are tired.

Our guide paid the entrance fee (30Q per person) for the area as we left.

Instead of taking the most direct route back to San Pedro La Laguna, we split off and headed through some farmland. This route kept the views of Lake Atitlan on our left as we kept some of our altitudes.

After one last, steep jungle descent we joined the road and walked along the road to San Juan. We passed through the colourful town of San Juan and entered the west side of San Pedro La Laguna at around 10am.

We ended the hike at the drop-off point, just along the main strip of San Pedro, where we could finally relax and wait for our bags!

Route Map of the Xela to Lake Atitlan Hike

What to pack for the Xela to Lake Atitlan Hike

Firstly, you should check with your tour company what is provided . Some tours will require you to carry your own sleeping bag and roll mat, whilst other tours provide these at each homestay. This will impact how much you can fit in your bag.

Key items to consider are:

• Sleeping bag and roll mat

Both should be provided by the tour company. With Monte Verde tours, you will not need to carry them meaning that there was more space in your bag. Quetzaltrekkers hikers had to carry their sleeping bag and roll mat.

Your bag should be at least 40 litres and preferably with hip straps . I used my Osprey Farpoint 40 travel bag which worked well, though most companies offer their own hiking equipment to borrow. If you are hiking during the wet season, make sure that everything fits inside your bag rather than clipping anything on the outside. Plus a waterproof cover would be helpful.

• Walking shoes or trainers.

Make sure you have some comfortable and worn-in shoes that are suitable for hiking. Walking boots or shoes are ideal, but trainers will suffice.

• Hiking clothes

Wear whatever you are comfortable hiking in. A sweat-wicking top is usually a good idea. I opted for hiking shorts rather than trousers due to personal preference however, you may prefer to wear trousers for protection from insects and branches. Hiking socks to avoid blisters are also a useful addition. A cap and/or sunglasses are also good for sun protection.

• Warm clothes

Nights on the hike can get pretty cold due to the altitude and lack of building insulation! Plus the sunrise hike up to Rostra Maya (and waiting for the sunrise) can get bitterly cold when exposed to the wind! I recommend packing clothes that layer easily, a fleece, and some trousers .

Unlike the Acatenango hike, you won’t need anything thicker than this. Whilst you’re hiking, you stay mostly warm, especially during the day. For the evenings, a fleece should suffice before you get into your sleeping bag. On the morning of the sunrise hike, I wore my trousers over my shorts until it got warm. It’s up to you if you want to carry a hat and gloves should you get cold easily.

• Change of clothes for each day

The first day can get very sweaty so bring a fresh top and underwear for the second day. It’s up to you if you want to re-use clothes for the final day given that it’s just a half-day. I opted for clean underwear and a top but re-used my walking socks and shorts. A long shower was needed in Lake Atitlan!

Swimming trunks (or a swimsuit) for the temescal are another optional change of clothes. Sadly, there wasn’t anywhere else on the hike to swim.

Rainy Season in Guatemala is from May to October. If you are hiking around this time, pack a rain jacket. Make sure to check the weather forecast for Xela and Lake Atitlan even if you are hiking during the dry season.

It’s never a bad decision to pack a lightweight raincoat just in case.

When travelling anywhere beautiful, I always try to pack my camera. Though I’m glad I packed my camera, I didn’t use it as much as I thought I would because of the jungle cover and the time spent walking.

Just remember everything you pack in your bag you will have to carry for the next three days. And if you do bring your camera, make sure it’s easily accessible . Don’t shove it at the very bottom of your rucksack, otherwise, you won’t be bothered to re-pack your bag each time you want to take some snaps!

• Chargers and Battery Pack

There were charging ports at both of our homestays. If you don’t want to rely on this, packing a battery pack that lasts for the whole three days is sensible.

I’ll be honest, I was pretty grubby by the end of the hike with all the sweat and dust that I’d accumulated. But I was glad that I brought a small wash bag with the essentials (towel, toothbrush, toothpaste, deodorant, shower gel, tissues, first aid kit, blister plasters, anti-bac, insect repellant, and suncream).

• Headtorch or flashlight

On the final night, you will be hiking in the dark before the sun rises. A phone torch will suffice if you would prefer to save on weight and space.

The food supplied by tour companies is generally filling. However, these will only fill you up at specific meal times. It’s good to have some snacks to keep you sustained and full of energy whilst you’re hiking. Some great hiking snacks include nuts, fruit (non-squishable), and granola bars.

Bring 2-3 litres of water. I personally packed 2 litres as I conserve my water when hiking. There are opportunities to buy water at the first homestay. There is also a place to buy drinks en route, but don’t rely on this.

There are a handful of places to buy snacks and drinks along the trail so have cash (Quetzales) available.

• Other personal items

I didn’t pack anything more than what has been listed above. But this is a reminder to pack anything else specific to you that you need to bring such as glasses, contact lenses, medication, binoculars etc…

• Anything you are not comfortable giving away

If you don’t feel comfortable sending personal or valuable items to Lake Atitlan to meet you at the end of the hike, your next best option is to carry them with you!

Hints and Tips for the Xela to Lake Atitlan Hike

Go during the dry season (april-november).

This isn’t to say that you won’t have a good time in the other months, BUT the hike is much more pleasant when the sun is shining and the trails aren’t muddy. When there are clear skies, you can see as far as Fuego Volcano in Antigua plus the sunrise is much more impressive without clouds!

Get a good sleep the night before

Before taking on the Xela to Lake Atitlan hike, it’s important to get a good night’s sleep so you are fully rested before three days of exertion. At least two of the days have a particularly early start, so schedule some rest while you have the chance. I stayed in Kasa Kiwi hostel which was nice and quiet.

Pack light and bring a bag with hip straps

Since you’ll be carrying your rucksack up and over mountains for the next three days, make sure you are comfortable so you can enjoy the walk and the scenery. Having a bag with hip straps will take the weight off of your back and make everything much more bearable.

Be selective about what you bring with you. The packing suggestions I have given above are everything that you could need for the hike. If there is anything that you think you might not need, don’t bring it.

Share with your group

Avoid bringing two tubes of toothpaste, two bottles of sun cream, or two multi-socket chargers. If you know your buddies before this hike, communicate what you’re packing so you cover all bases between you and can save on unnecessary weight.

Bring extra snacks

Maybe this is just because I eat a lot and think with my stomach… But grab plenty of snacks before you leave. I’d rather carry slightly more weight and have the energy to carry it, rather than be dead on my feet and have no little pick-me-ups to munch on!

Wear insect repellant

There are lots of biting insects in the jungle, so load up on mosquito spray before your walk. But also, use the spray in the evenings and at night too! Some of the homestays are very isolated and have all sorts of bugs flying around.

Shout out to my hiking buddy who got bitten by a botfly and had the larva removed months later… (sorry for exposing you if you’re reading this).

Book somewhere nice in Lake Atitlan

After three days of hiking, you’ll be wanting to relax for a few days around the lake. At least for the first night or two, pick somewhere pleasant where you can spend some time relaxing.

Where to stay in Lake Atitlan

Around Lake Atitlan, you are spoilt for choice with hostels, hotels, Airbnbs, and resorts to stay at.

You should arrive in San Pedro (Lake Atitlan) late morning on the third day of the trek. Any bags that you requested should arrive at a similar time, or early that afternoon. This means you will have time to catch a boat to any other town on the lake and you are not restricted to booking accommodation in San Pedro.

Though, if you do choose San Pedro, this gives you plenty of time to find your accommodation and settle for the rest of the day.

NOTE: The are lots of hostels in San Pedro that aren’t listed on Hostelworld, so make sure to check out other sites like Booking.com.

I will be writing another post on the best places to stay in Lake Atitlan, but here are my top choices:

• Sababa Resort (best for luxury and views)
• Mr Mullet’s (best for partying)
• Amigos (best all-rounder)
• Casa Lobo Bungalows (best for relaxation)
• La Iguana Perdida in Santa Cruz (best hostel)
• Selina in Panajachel (best hostel for digital nomads)
• Eagle’s Nest Atitlan (best for yoga)
• Laguna Lodge or La Fortuna (best luxury resorts)

Other hikes in Lake Atitlan

Since you’re reading this blog post, I’m assuming you enjoy hiking and aren’t just looking for a way to get from Xela to Lake Atitlan. Hint: the bus is a lot quicker than walking!

So here are a few more hikes to check out once you arrive in Lake Atitlan.

• San Marcos to Santa Cruz (Lower Mayan Trail) : Lakeside hike with the best views of the three volcanoes.
• Ruta la Finca : Short hike to a black-sand beach.
• San Pedro Volcano : The most popular volcano hike in Lake Atitlan.
• Toliman Volcano : A Two peak hike on the volcano nearest the lake.
• Volcan Atitlan : The highest viewpoint around Lake Atitlan.

Other hikes in Xela

• Volcan Tajamulco : The highest point in Central America (4220m).
• Volcan Santa Maria : The most scenic hike in Xela, with views over Santiaguito volcano.
• Santiaguito Mirador : Shorter hike to the viewpoint overlooking the crater.
• Cerro El Baul : Short hike to a viewpoint overlooking Quetzaltenango.
• Laguna de Chicabal : Short hike to a sacred crater lake.

My honest review of the Xela to Lake Atitlan Hike

Before I went on this hike, I hadn’t spoken to anyone with any personal experience of doing the Xela to Lake Atitlan hike. It was a bit of a step into the unknown, so I want to give my honest feedback so that others can decide for themselves.

I arrived in Xela, spent a few days there, and was pleasantly surprised. There wasn’t loads to do in the city, nor is there a backpacker presence. Instead, it’s a place where people live rather than a place people visit. It’s fine for a stopover before the hike or a place to settle for a while. If I had travelled there solo looking for a ‘normal’ backpacker experience, I may have felt isolated as it isn’t a backpacker city.

The first day was a slog. It was an early start and it seemed to be up and down for hours. It was a test of fitness and endurance that had me questioning things at times. Particularly when our guide’s definition of ‘nearly there’ or ’10 more minutes’ did not align with ours. I appreciated the later start on the second day

After two days of intense hiking, the Indian Nose hike actually felt quite short. At the bottom, I was glad that it was over. My body wasn’t used to hiking regularly, nor waking up at silly o’clock in the morning! Once I’d had time to rest, I can look back at the experience a lot more fondly.

Hiking aside the experience as a whole, seeing parts of Guatemala that very few others see; experiencing a temescal for the first time; meeting the families at our homestay; laughing with our guide was really what made it.

For the price of the three days of hiking, it was very worth it! If you have the time, I would definitely recommend this hike . Going on a multi-day hike is great, and this is one of the better ones in Guatemala. Unlike the Acatenango hike which is up and down, the Xela to Lake Atitlan hike feels more like a trek.

Before you go

Thank you for reading my travel guide on the Xela to Lake Atitlan hike. If guides, itineraries, and travel content like this interest you, head over to my blog page to find out more.

If you are new to Matt’s Next Steps , check out the About Me page to find out a bit more about who I am, my travel adventures, and why I wanted to become a travel writer.

Please comment below and let me know your thoughts and experiences, or if there is anything else you want information on.

Happy hiking!

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Traveler, conservationist, photographer, blogger, and well-being enthusiast.

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Molly | Transatlantic Notes

Overall this sounds like a really nice hiking experience; I’m not sure this kind of thing is for me yet (I would have to continue on my fitness journey to enjoy this one) but it is somewhere I’d like to get to one day!

Hi Molly! It was great and would highly recommend once you’re ready. Xela and Lake Atitlan have plenty more beautiful hikes (of all standards) to help you ease your way into something like this. All the best. Matt

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7 Things to Do in Xela (Quetzaltenango), Guatemala

Central america, destinations.

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Quetzaltenango, Guatemala

Quetzaltenango, Guatemala is the country’s second-largest city, and it is most commonly known as Xela . Here you will also find the largest population of K’iche Mayan population. During the past few years, it has become a popular destination for travelers that want to learn some Spanish. It also offers great options for volunteers. Xela, Guatemala is a good region for travelers . A nice fact is that the name has the word Quetzal, which is the national bird of Guatemala !

Its original K’iche’ name is Xelajú , which was immortalized in the traditional song called “Luna de Xelaju” ( Xelaju’s Moon ). It is set on a valley right in between the near-perfect cone of 3,770-meter Santa María Volcano and the active Santiaguito Volcano.

The city itself is really cute to walk around. It’s easy to walk around. It can get hectic with people. There’s always some sort of a festival or something going on, but it’s fun. That makes it a little bit more fun.

Downtown offers the feel of a European highland city because of its architecture. It is remarkably safe for a city of its size and has a lively cultural scene peppered by the presence of an ever-increasing number of foreign visitors. It is also a place where you will find many great restaurants and some good hotels.

While you tour the city make sure to visit the Theater, the Central Park and the Railroad Museum. But if you prefer to spend some time among nature you can take a tour of the Santa Maria & Santiaguito Volcano .

Related Read: 3 Vegan Restaurants in Xela (Quetzaltenango), Guatemala You Need to Try

How to Get to Xela?

There are quite a few ways to get there. Regardless of where you’re coming, from Antigua or the city or even Lake Atitlan, there are plenty of shuttles that go directly into Zone One in Xela, I think the shuttles can cost around $30 to $35 per person.

Private Transfer

You could also get a private transfer, which is not that expensive, maybe $125 for up to like six people. You have to check with the different companies, the times that they get there.

Renting a Car

If you are renting a car or if you have your own car, it’s very easy to drive into. The traffic can be quite intense when you get to the actual city itself. But traffic is eternal in all parts of the world at this point, so it’s just something that is a norm.

The Top 5 Things to Do in Xela  in Guatemala

1. spanish schools – learn spanish.

The area is filled with Spanish schools offering private classes that will have you speaking Spanish in a short amount of time. The reason why Guatemala is such a good place to learn Spanish is because they have a relatively neutral pronunciation that works well with other Spanish-speaking countries.

2. Volunteering

Because of its location, Xela in Guatemala is an ideal place for many nonprofits to have their own office. It keeps them close to some of the communities that are most in need in the country, but still close enough to Guatemala city . All of these nonprofits are constantly looking for volunteers to help them out with different tasks. Joining them might help you give a little more meaning to your trip.

3. Volcano Hikes

There are three volcanoes nearby they are Santiguito, Santa María, and Cerro Quemado. Santiaguito is forbidden for hikers, it is too active and dangerous right now, so don’t buy into anyone telling you they can take you there. You don’t want to spend the night at the police station and get a fine. (This information is current as of August 2020)

But Santa Maria, right next to it is open for visitors, and from its summit, you get amazing views of the Santiaguito crater from a safe distance. Cerro Quemado used to be a huge volcano that exploded years ago and not it is just a black sea of cooled lava. But worth a visit.

4. Rock Climbing

These tours usually take place in the Cerro Quemado volcano. It has such a rugged terrain that in some spaces there are a few steep walls of rock that are perfect to practice some amazing rock climbing. These tours take almost all day.

5. Hot Springs

All three volcanoes are still not dormant. Santa Maria and Cerro Quemado aren’t actively erupting, but the magma chambers under them are still alive and working. This allows for nearby rivers and sources of water to heat up. The most well-known hot spring in the area is called Fuentes Feorginas. If you visit on a weekday in the morning, you will have the place almost for yourself. Don’t attempt to get there on a weekend if you want to avoid crowds.

6. Visit Zone One

Zone One is where the majority of the hotels are. Also, a lot of Airbnb are. Even though it is a historic area, you can definitely come there by car. The majority of airbnb and hotels have a place where you could leave a car, or a parking space, but you could pretty much walk all of Zone One very easily. It’s even very recommendable because the traffic can get pretty harsh. The streets are really narrow. So actually parking in a restaurant can be a bit of a pain in the butt, especially if you have a place where to leave your car.

7. Try Sheka Bread

The more popular thing there to try is the Sheka. It’s a bread which is very overrated in our opinion. It’s just bread filled with different fillings.

You could even get it in Xela Pan, which is one of the more popular panaderias or bakeries in the area. It’s located right there in Parque Central.

Quick Advice:  This city is located in the highlands of Guatemala , so it gets very cold at night, especially in November so bring a couple of good Jackets.

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Last Updated on June 17, 2023

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The Complete Guide to Xela, Guatemala

Information to Xela, Guatemala

Visiting Xela, Guatemala? Right here’s my move information to this Guatemalan town!

Quetzaltenango, higher recognized through its Mayan identify Xela, may well be Guatemala’s 2d greatest town, however 99% of crowd have by no means heard of it. This town in Guatemala’s highlands is continuously lost sight of through many vacationers, however I in reality loved my month right here and getting to understand Xela.

In the event you’re trim on month in Guatemala, I wouldn’t essentially suggest visiting Xela, however when you have extra month within the nation, or if you wish to whisk Spanish courses, it’s a playground you will have to take a look at!

Xela has a singular historical heart, in addition to a large city sprawl. The structure within the historical heart may be very fascinating. Hour it rather resembles a colonial the city like Antigua in some playgrounds, I used to be additionally reminded of being in Europe from time to time in alternative playgrounds.

It’s an overly mischievous, culturally lavish town with rather a lot to do within reach.

Right here’s the entirety you want to learn about visiting Xela, Guatemala.

The right way to Get There

In the event you’re coming from Guatemala Town, one of the best ways to get to Xela is through mentor bus.

There are two bus corporations, Transportes Alamos and Linea Dorada , that do business in direct carrier to Xela. The buses are blank, comfy, and come with snacks. The entire move month to Xela is set 4 and a part hours with one extra cancel. This selection prices round $12.

You don’t wish to purchase tickets in walk, simply display as much as the bus station and purchase them there.

An alternative choice for purchasing to Xela from Guatemala Town is taking a shared commute (I at all times worth Adrenalina Excursions for shuttles in Guatemala) which prices round $40. This selection additionally takes about six hours as a result of you’ll have to secured thru Antigua first.

In the event you’re coming from Guatemala Town, nearest I for sure suggest taking the bus to Xela over a commute. It’s the most cost effective, quickest, and maximum comfy possibility.

In the event you’re coming from Antigua, you’ll be able to whisk a shared commute to Xela for round $30, and it is going to whisk about 3 and a part hours. Sadly, there is not any direct mentor bus or hen bus possibility.

Coming from Puddle Atitlan, the walk to Xela takes a tiny over two hours, and you’ll be able to both whisk a shared commute for round $25 or whisk an instantaneous hen bus from Panajachel to Xela for simply $3!

The place to Keep in Xela, Guatemala

Fingers i’m sick the most productive playground to stick in Xela is  Mucha Arte Hostal.

This boutique hostel is likely one of the most original and easiest worth playgrounds I’ve ever stayed.

The inner of Mucha Arte is spotlessly blank and adorned in a stupendous means. There are two large courtyards for visitors to pause in, along side a glorious and bright living room room.

You’ll choose between personal rooms with a non-public rest room, or personal rooms with a shared rest room. I paid $22 an evening for a non-public room with a non-public rest room, and this additionally integrated a scrumptious breakfast each morning. The homeowners and body of workers at Mucha Arte in reality advance above and past for visitors, and I extremely suggest staying right here hour in Xela!

In the event you plan to whisk Spanish courses hour in Xela, an alternative choice is doing a homestay with an area folk. It is a usual and really reasonably priced possibility that all of the Spanish faculties can prepare for you.

A homestay prices about $100 a day and comprises 3 foods a hour.

Alternative playgrounds to stick that I heard just right issues about in Xela are:

Issues to Do

Questioning what to do in Xela? Listed below are some can’t-miss actions…

Whip Spanish courses.

I spent over six weeks taking Spanish courses in Guatemala, with two of them spent in Xela.

Xela is a superb playground to be informed Spanish as a result of it’s much less touristy than Antigua or Puddle Atitlan, and plenty of crowd don’t talk English in any respect. So you’ll in reality be capable to immerse your self right here.

I going to Utatlan Spanish College which I extremely suggest. It prices about $135 a day for 20 hours of one-on-one Spanish courses, plus afternoon actions like salsa categories, cultural visits, mountaineering, and cooking categories. The site of the varsity is tremendous handy within the historical heart.

Climb Cerro El Baul.

For the most productive standpoint over town, head as much as Cerro El Baul. This hilltop deals a superb omit of Xela, and is likely one of the few inexperienced areas within the town.

From town heart, it takes about an pace to get to the supremacy, the place there’s a terrain and standpoint. In the event you don’t wish to advance, it’s additionally imaginable to succeed in the supremacy through automobile.

Consult with the new springs.

The Fuentes Georginas sizzling springs are about thirty mins outdoor Xela in a the city referred to as Zunil, positioned in an overly scenic mountainous segment.

I in my opinion had an underwhelming month on the sizzling springs (it was once completely packed as a result of I went on a Saturday afternoon) so for a greater enjoy, I might suggest going there on a weekday morning when it is going to be much less crowded. It prices 60Q (about $8) for foreigners.

Height a volcano.

For adventure-seekers, there are countless volcanoes round Xela that you’ll be able to climb.

Tajumulco  is the tallest volcano in Central The usa,  Santa Maria  deals perspectives of eruptions on the within reach Santiaguito, and  Chicabal  is legendary for the Mayan rituals that happen on the crater pond within the heart. All of those volcanoes are simply out there from Xela.

I didn’t climb any volcanoes hour in Xela ( mountain climbing Acatenango was once enough quantity for me) however I heard that Quetzaltrekkers  is the most productive corporate within the segment to advance mountain climbing with.

The place to Consume

Listed below are probably the most easiest playgrounds I ate hour in Xela:

Mandarina:  This Australian-run cafe is a playground the place you’ll be able to in finding your entire favourite meals from house like avocado toast and bagel sandwiches! The sustenance is mouth-watering and they’ve a pleasant ground.

Xelapan:  Xelapan is a tiny bakery chain with a number of places across the town. Their bread, pastries, and snacks are all freshly-baked and tremendous yummy, and intensely affordable too.

Sabor de l. a. Republic of India: The most efficient playground for original Indian meals in Xela.

Bake Store:  It is a very usual bakery in Xela this is run through Mennonites. They do business in a scrumptious collection of selfmade pastries, doughnuts, cookies, and extra.

Bar Salon Tecun:  Situated within the lined arcade Pasaje Enriquez, this eating place and bar proper throughout from Parque Central is understood for having the most productive pizza in Xela.

El Cuartito:  This eating place is a superb playground to advance for breakfast, lunch, or dinner in Xela. They’ve a pleasant out of doors yard and it will get vigorous within the evenings.

Is Xela Barricade?

As a solo feminine traveler, protection is at all times a concern for me.

Like far and wide else I went right through my two and a part months in Guatemala, I felt very safeguard in Xela.

Despite the fact that it’s a quite massive town, Xela is far more secure than the capital, Guatemala Town. After all, I can’t talk for each zone or group in Xela, however staying in Zone 1 and Zone 3, I felt fairly safeguard all the time. On the other hand, like with anyplace, I by no means walked round on my own overdue at evening.

However alternative than that, I didn’t whisk any last protection precautions and I at all times felt safeguard. Although I used to be continuously the one foreigner strolling i’m sick the road, I by no means felt like I attracted unwelcome consideration and crowd simply minded their trade for essentially the most section.

So total, I might say Xela is an overly safeguard vacation spot. As a solo feminine traveler, you don’t have anything to fret about so long as you worth familiar sense and keep away from strolling rejected overdue at evening.

Climate in Xela, Guatemala

One latter factor to notice, it will get CHILLY in Xela!

Because of its location within the Western Highlands, Xela has a shape this is cooler than many alternative portions of Guatemala. The temperature varies tiny during the generation, with lows round 50 levels and highs round 65 to 70 levels. It will also be fairly turbulent.

Within the evenings, you’ll for sure wish to have a luminous jacket with you.

Just like the extra of Guatemala, Xela reviews two seasons: hardened season and wet season. Hardened seasons lasts from November thru March, hour wet season is April thru October.

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Into The Arms Of America

Quick travel guide to xela.

I f you want to do something stupid, visit Xela for only one day. Like most tourists do. To immediately leave for the three-day hike to Lake Atitlan . Or be brave and wise. Give the town some time to blossom. And discover how gentle and relaxed the second city of Guatemala really is.

Xela divides opinions. It is so schizophrenic it even has two names. Officially it is Quetzaltenango. But the locals use the shorter and much easier version: Xela. The town really has two faces. At first sight there isn’t much special, except for it being an excellent base for climbing the surrounding biggest volcanoes of the country. There aren’t any impressive museums or great lakes to admire. But dive below the surface and you can discover the real Guatemala: not nearly as chaotic as capital Guatemala City, not nearly as picture-perfect as colonial Antigua. But with a relaxed Parque America, a massive cemetery with amazing street art on its outer walls, some great food, and some of the friendliest people who are trying to make a living somehow.

General introduction

Food and drinks.

• Activities / Things to do
• Getting there and getting around

Miscellaneous

The geographic location – in a valley between volcanoes but still at a height of more than 2,000 metres – makes Xela a gentle place to live. It will rarely get too hot, up in the mountains (and in the evenings) it can even get chilly. Traffic on the narrow streets can be slightly chaotic and dirty. But because this place is the centre of the entire region, the most important facilities (electricity, internet) tend to be fairly reliable. In the past, Xela has been hit especially by big earthquakes, the one from 1902 almost destroying the entire city. Navigation is quite easy, once you know how it works. From north to south they have the ‘calle’ (streets), numbered from 1 to 2 etc. And from west to east they have the ‘avenidas’ (avenues), also numbered. House numbers indicate between which streets or avenues they are located: 2a Calle 304 means that the house is on 2nd street, between avenues 3 and 4 (because the house number is between 300 and 400). Easy, right? 🙂 Xela isn’t overtly touristic, and those foreigners who do come here are almost always with a mission. They either want to climb the mountains, or they want to learn Spanish in this town.

There are loads of very decent places to eat and drink in Xela. Some recommendations:

• Monte Alto : if there is one place I fell in love with, it was Monte Alto. The place in the northeast corner of Parque Central has something to offer for breakfast, lunch and dinner. From waffles and omelettes to pastas or delicious smoothies and coffee, this place is a reliable, nutritious and affordable hideout for travellers
• Bajo La Luna : Not nearly as chique as the bigger (and also delicious) cafe La Luna, the ‘Bajo’ is how you would imagine a dark rock bar. The wooden interior makes it cosy, the place is so intimate that I was immediately invited to join a party of American students learning Spanish in Xela. The burgers themselves aren’t world-class, but price-quality is excellent and the service is unusually relaxed. Definitely also a place to stay for a couple of hours (and beers) too many
• La Stampa : close to Monte Alto, on the absolute northeast corner of Parque, this place actually mainly serves tapas. You can use it for dinner as well, though it would take some effort to be saturated here. Stampa is also an excellent place for lunch or some mid-afternoon snack and wine
• Guiseppe Pizza : if it is a good sign when a restaurant is visited by locals, then Guiseppe is one of the better places in town. Don’t come here for the atmosphere though: the bright white lights give you the feeling you are in a cantine of a factory, the televisions showing football matches from two years ago don’t improve the experience as well. But the friendly service and the mouth-watering pizzas definitely make up for that
• Sabor de la India : It is a somehow strange experience to have Indian food in Central America. But Sabor does an excellent job, with a good range of curry dishes and other specialties. In winter, don’t forget to bring a jacket, because this semi-open place can get slightly chilly
• Baviera Cafe : from the outside, Baviera doesn’t look special. But once inside you have to ascend a small stairs, that brings you to the delightful cosy and bright inner courtyard. One small stairs away is the room at the front, with beautiful colonial styling. Add to this the great coffee and a great range of sweet dishes, which make Baviera a great place to just chill and read a book for hours
• Pasaje Enriquez : On the northwest side of the Parque is this beautiful corridor. It is a bit touristic, but has several bars and restaurants for people who are looking for something easygoing and not-so-adventurous 🙂

Activities / things to do

• Cemetery : if we have to die, Xela might be a great place to be buried. On the western edge of the city center, through a yellow arch, a neverending cemetery spreads out over what might be close to a square kilometre. Some of the graves are small pieces of art in themselves, and from the park of the dead you have sweeping views of the nearby volcanoes. When visiting, don’t forget to have a look on the northern outer wall, which is covered with street art
• Xela hardly has any museums. The Museo de Arte was surprisingly hard to find, as it turned out it had limited opening hours and was nothing more than a big room in a massive building. But the collection, around 400 contemporary paintings, is fascinating. There are also lots of works by Rodrigo Diaz, who also happens to be the curator and your personal guide
• Movies : totally bored by doing nothing? The cinema in the Ulew Mall (corner of 2a Calle and 19a Avenida) might be your escape for the night! Check beforehand though whether the movies screen in their original language
• Markets : close to Parque Central / Parque America (on the southern side) is the Central Market. This lively building has three stories, with a gently-sloped walkway taking you all around. Even more lively, not to say absolutely crazy, is the partially open-air market around Minerva bus station. On the western side of the sports ground you can buy everything. The stall owners are not exactly shy in trying to sell you stuff, this is the real Guatemalan experience. Just beware of pickpockets here
• Fuentes Georginas : when you need to recover from a day of hiking, this spa is an excellent option. Open daily from 9am to 6pm, these hot springs a couple of kilometres south of Xela are a revelation
• Hiking : obviously the main reason to come to Xela. So, there are plenty of companies to guide you around (see the article about the hike to Lake Atitlan for options). The most common hikes are:
• Laguna Chicabal : this hike to the holy lake of Chicabal is an excellent exercise / warming-up walk. For indigenous people, this water is extremely important so don’t go swimming. From Xela you take a chicken bus to the village of San Martin Sacatepequez, from there it is 2-3 hours of sometimes steep climbing to see the crater lake. Go very early, as in the course of the day usually clouds will ruin the view (some things you have to learn the hard way…)
• Santa Maria : towering over Xela, this volcano is a hard climb . You can do it on your own, though it’s easy to get lost. From the base of the mountain, after already probably two hours of climbing, it is a grueling ascend to the top at 3,772 metres. The views are stunning though
• Tajumulco : Guatemala’s highest peak at 4,220 metres, this is offered almost always as a two-day trek from Xela, with an overnight stay in a tent on the mountain
• Lake Atitlan : the classic three-day trek from Xela to San Pedro La Laguna is around 46 kilometres. After two days of steady, not-too-heavy hiking, the morning of day three brings you sunrise views over Lake Atitlan as a reward. San Pedro itself is a cheap hippie paradise, slightly touristic but a good place to recover before taking the boat to Panajachel on the other side of the lake

Getting to Xela and getting around

• There are first-class buses going to Guatemala City, and chicken buses as well of course. If you want to go to Antigua, you have to change in Chimaltenango. Another important connection is to Panajachel, at Lake Atitlan
• If you are coming from (or going to) Mexico, the easiest way is to book a minivan from/to San Cristobal de las Casas. You will change buses at the very lively Mexican-Guatemalan border, where you also might have to pay tourist tax if coming from Mexico (check beforehand if you already paid this amount on your incoming flight, if applicable). The entire trip takes around 8-10 hours, depending on traffic and level of suicidal wishes of the driver, and can also easily be done from Panajachel
• In Xela, you can either take chicken buses or microvans for local transport. These microvans are like shared taxis, you hop on and off along predestinated routes (just say a prayer and hope you will travel into the proper direction), you pay upon exiting. Fares on these vans are ridiculously cheap
• If you really want to do some proper shopping , there is a modern shopping center including a Walmart (yes, you read that right) northwest of Minerva bus station
• The weather : as anywhere in Central America, rainy season is from April until September/October. It doesn’t rain all day, but if it does, expect a downpour… Because of its geographical location in between the mountains, it can get quite fresh on winter evenings around Xela

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Santa Maria Volcano In Guatemala: How To Hike This Epic Peak

This is the story of my sunrise climb up the Santa Maria Volcano near Xela in Guatemala. If you’re looking for practical information about how to do the Santa Maria volcano hike, skip to the FAQs at the bottom.

Contents (click to view)

The night before I climb Volcan Santa Maria, my sleep is wracked by a terrifying dream.

I dream I’m in a meeting hall, with a parquet floor and trestle tables round the walls. I’m going round the room, frantically asking people if they can help me think of an excuse to get out of doing the volcano hike, but no one can help me.

Then, a huge hurricane blows up. Pounding wind and hail smashes all the windows and rages through the hall, and I and a few others are forced to shelter under a table. Everyone is terrified, but mostly I’m relieved that I don’t have to climb the volcano anymore.

And then my alarm wakes me, and it’s 1 am, and shit just got real. I’m about to go and climb one of Guatemala’s most difficult volcanoes in the middle of the night.

Discovering the Quetzaltenango volcano

I had not planned to hike up Volcan Santa Maria when I arrived in Quetzaltenango (locally nicknamed Xela) just three days previously. I was there to volunteer and study Spanish, and while I fully intended to use my time off explore the various attractions Xela has to offer – which include several volcano hikes – I hadn’t got as far as planning what, or when, or how.

I certainly wasn’t fully acclimatised to Xela’s 2330 m (7640 ft) elevation, nor was I mentally prepared to take on something as challenging as a midnight volcano hike so soon after my arrival in the country.

But I was alone in a strange city and a weekend stretched out wide ahead of me, so I looked around for tours that might offer me both the chance to explore my surroundings and a way to meet fellow travellers.  

Weekend tours from Xela

There were a several options: a trip to the largest waterpark in Central America organised by my Spanish school , an excursion to visit local villages and hot springs, a day trip to see a famous yellow church , or even a two-day hike up Central America’s tallest volcano, with camping overnight at the top.

I certainly didn’t feel prepared for the latter, so I booked the hot springs tour and packed my bikini, ready for a relaxing soak.

But then I got a text from a girl I had exchanged a few messages with on a local Facebook group, telling me that she was going to hike Santa Maria Volcano in the middle of the night with a guy she had just met that morning, and did I want to come?

Read more: The Complete Guide To Xela Guatemala: Things To See And Do

It seemed bonkers. Climbing a volcano in a strange country with a bunch of randoms off the internet. At two o’clock in the morning. I’d have to be insane to agree!

But travel is about taking risks and opening yourself up to new experiences. And I’m trying to face my fears and say yes to more things. So I spoke to Kylie, my new Facebook friend, on the phone, and then I talked to the guide, Rony, and they both sounded like decent, sensible people, and so I took a deep breath and said ‘Oh f*ck it!’ and agreed.

The fear of the Santa Maria volcano

I’ve climbed volcanoes and done scary challenges before, so it’s not like I’m inexperienced. The highlight was Nyiragongo in the Democratic Republic of Congo, home to a spectacular lava lake . And there was Kilimanjaro , a very long and challenging 8-day hike up to the highest point in Africa. I’ve even jumped out of a plane !

But the most memorable was the utterly petrifying Ol Doinyo Lengai in Tanzania , a volcano hike so steep and slippery that after I finally made it back down in one exhausted piece, I swore I’d never climb another volcano ever again.

So when I googled the 3,772-metre Volcan Santa Maria and found online reviews that described it as “one of the hardest volcanoes to climb in Guatemala” and told me that “climbing the volcano is extremely difficult not only due to the altitude but also the steepness of the terrain,” I began to panic.

What had I just signed up to? Was I in for another near-death experience? Why, oh God WHY, had I not just stuck with the nice safe day trip?

Surely it would be better to wait until I’ve acclimatised, and do the hike another time, with a reliable tour group, and a later departure so I won’t have to do it in the middle of the night? Is sunrise all that important anyway?!

Was it too late to back out? Could I call up the now-cancelled hot springs tour company and rebook?

I nearly did, you know. It was only the fear of missing a great experience and embarrassing myself in front of my potential new friends that stopped me. FOMO is a powerful thing.

And so I tried to ignore the gnawing anxiety, repacked my backpack with water, snacks, and a heavy coat I’d borrowed at the eleventh hour from the administrator at my Spanish school, and went to bed at 9 pm.

Not that sleep was particularly forthcoming.

Getting to Volcan Santa Maria Xela

There are 37 volcanoes in Guatemala, four of them active. The highest is Tajmulco, which at 4,200 m (13,780 ft) is also the tallest peak in Central America.

Santa Maria is only the fourth tallest, but it’s known for being particularly steep and challenging. It’s also a sleeping monster – now dormant, its last eruption in 1902 was one of the most violent eruptions of the last 200 years.

So along with the dark and the steepness and the altitude, I just might have an earthquake or even a surprise eruption to contend with.

Beginning the Santa Maria volcano hike

With the terror from my dream still chilling my blood, I’m picked up from my hostel by my new Facebook friend Kylie and our guide Rony. Also in the car is another Bela (but male) a former photojournalist from Hungary.

As I squeeze into the back my legs are already hurting before we’ve even begun. Yesterday morning, not knowing I was about to climb a volcano, I did a HIIT workout in my hotel room involving a lot of squats and lunges, and I’m certainly feeling the effects.

So here’s my top tip for climbing a volcano in Guatemala : don’t do a workout the day before!

We drive the 30-minute drive out of the city to the small town of Llanos del Pinal, where we leave the car in a tiny wire-fenced car park. Here we’re met by six other intrepid hikers, and two friendly street dogs who greet us enthusiastically, tails windmilling with excitement. I ask their names.

“I don’t know,” Rony replies, “but they’ll be coming with us all the way to the top. You don’t need a guide; the dogs will show you the way.”

And so we set off, in ones and twos, each following the light cast by the headtorch of the hiker in front. The trail slopes gently uphill, a narrow, dusty path pitted with small stones and bordered by grassy verges. Overhead the sky is painted with patchy clouds; occasionally a bright three-quarter moon peeks out and casts some extra illumination on the proceedings before being obscured again. But for the most part I can’t see much, just the heels of the person in front of me pushing purposefully forward.

Our Santa María volcano guide

Rony sets a brisk pace. A Xela local all his life, he first climbed Santa Maria in 2001, and loved it so much he kept going back. This will be his 94 th summit, and after he’s done it, he’s going home for a nap and bagging another peak with a different group this afternoon. I honestly have no idea where he gets the energy, but his legs must be made of steel.

I, meanwhile, am already puffing like a steam train, pressured into keeping up with the pace of the group by the two Guatemalan women right on my heels who are gossiping away merrily as though the altitude means nothing to them. I’m managing to keep up for now, but I know things are only going to get worse as the incline becomes steeper.

So, when we stop for a water break and a rest, Kylie and I reposition ourselves at the back of the group. I may be one of the slowest, but I don’t mind. Far better to go at my own comfortable pace than kill myself trying to keep up.

The Santa Maria climb continues

Soon the trail takes on a steeper incline and the grassy verges are replaced by twisted trees and spiky grasses. As the gradient becomes more challenging Kylie and I are soon left behind by the rest of the group, but we’re not too worried. The only way is up, as Yazz and the Plastic Population famously sang.

Occasionally, a helpful arrow painted on a rock shows the correct route. When the path splits, we take the fork that looks easier. It doesn’t matter; they all converge again eventually. All roads lead to the top.

Litter on the Santa Maria hike

There’s another indication that we’re going the right way: the huge amounts of rubbish. Like an eco-unfriendly version of the breadcrumbs left by Hansel and Gretel, the frequent glinting in the light of my headlamp of foil crisp packets, plastic water bottles and discarded biscuit wrappers tells us we’re treading in the footsteps of many climbers before us.

It’s helpful, but it’s also deeply depressing. There’s nothing more likely to ruin your enjoyment of nature than seeing the disgusting detritus left by hundreds of hikers with no respect for the beauty of the natural environment.

Later Rony tells me that every year he organises a team of volunteers to do an annual clean-up. Last year they collected 60 sacks of rubbish, carried down two at a time by a huge group of local hiking enthusiasts. This year he estimates he’ll need at least 50 people to clean up the mess left by the steady stream of litter louts.

The bright lights of Xela Guatemala

We plod ever upward for over an hour. At any moment now , I think, we’ll catch up with the group waiting for us at the next rest stop . But we never find them. So we keep going, one foot in front of the other, until we reach a place where the trees part and we can see the lights of the city of Xela spread out below us. It’s the perfect place to stop for a water break and a photo. By my calculation we’ve been going for two hours, so we should be at least halfway there.

And so far everything seems to be OK. The climb is challenging but manageable, and if it continues like this, all my fears will be unfounded. But I don’t think we’re out of the woods yet – quite literally. I remember from other volcano climbs how the trail tends to get steeper and more terrifying the closer you get to the top, so I’m fully expecting that at some point we’ll clear the safety of the trees and enter the danger zone – a sheer, barren wasteland with nothing to break your fall should you take a misstep on its treacherous surface.

To avoid spiralling into fear I try to focus on positive things: the reassuring puffing of Kylie behind me, the pattering feet of one of our doggy friends who has come to join us, and the thought of the deep bathtub in my hotel room, which I’m going to make full use of as soon as we get back.

Climbing Volcán Santa María: dawn breaks

When you’re struggling uphill in the dark, mostly just looking at where you’re putting your feet, it’s easy to lose track of your surroundings. So it takes a while before I notice that the sky has changed from coal black to an inky blue, and a warming stripe of orange has appeared on the horizon. The approach of dawn is a miraculous thing; it tells me that we must be getting close to our goal.

The colours shift from indigo to violet to magenta so rapidly that it’s a challenge not to keep stopping for photos. But we need to keep going, because now we’re racing against the clock. The entire point of dragging ourselves out of bed so stupidly early is to be able to watch the sunrise from the top of the volcano; how disappointing would it be to miss it because we were too slow?!

So we pick up the pace, huffing and puffing our way up through what we can now see is a forest of looming pine trees. The trail has taken on a ferocious steepness now; I’m frequently forced to use my hands to scramble up over large boulders, and I know I will feel some of the bigger steps up in my glutes tomorrow.

But I’m emboldened by the light at the end of the tunnel, or to be more accurate, the light behind me in the east, and eventually we reach the treeline, and, just a short distance beyond, the summit of Volcan Santa Maria, where Rony and the rest of the group are waiting for us.

Read more: A Perfect Guatemala Itinerary In 10 Days, 2 Weeks Or 3 Weeks

Sunrise at the summit of Volcan Santa Maria

Completely by accident, we’ve timed it perfectly. There’s no waiting around: we arrive at the top about 15 minutes before sunrise. There’s time to catch our breath and take a few photos of the blooming dawn sky before finally a tiny speck of fiery orange breaks over the horizon.

It’s 5.45 am, and I’ve already been up for nearly five hours, but I feel invincible. All my fears were entirely unfounded; all the stress and trauma a total waste of time.

As the newborn day blossoms from vibrant orange to gentle pink I take in the glorious 360-degree views.

To the east we can see Guatemala’s ‘Volcano Alley’, a line of seven misty peaks lined up one in front of the other like triangular dominoes: Santo Tomas, Paquisis, Atitlan, San Pedro, Toliman, Fuego, and Acatenango, 48 miles (78 km) away near the city of Antigua .

In the centre, a shrine of flowers and notes bears testament to the fact that this volcano is a sacred site for local Maya communities, who come up here to make offerings and perform ceremonies.

To the north, the streets and houses of the city of Quetzaltenango spread out like a child’s car play mat, and surrounding it are more misty volcanoes, with mysterious-sounding names like Chiquabal, Almolonga and Siete Orejas.

And in the west the volcano we’re standing on casts a perfectly triangular shadow on the landscape, and next to it, almost directly below us, a huge plume of smoke hangs in the air like fairground candyfloss. This is the breath of Volcan Santiaguito, just a mile away from where we are standing.

At 2,500 m Santiaguito is a smaller and much younger cone, created in the wake of Santa María’s 1902 eruption and still constantly erupting. Even from more than 1,000 m above, we can hear its roaring and churning carried up on the still morning air.

Breakfast on top of a volcano

Forget breakfast television, there’s no better entertainment while you eat your packed egg sandwich than a live broadcast of an erupting volcano. We arrange ourselves on rocks to refuel, enjoying the spectacle and posing for more photos. Away from the sunny side there’s a chill in the air, and finally I’m grateful for the heavy coat I’ve carted all this way. We’re lucky though, Rony tells me, usually it’s much colder up here, with serious wind chill. He’s rarely seen weather this good at the top.

Read more: Visiting San Andres Xecul, Guatemala: Home Of The Famous Yellow Church

And best of all, we are the only ones here. No one else, it seems, was insane enough to get up so early and hike all night to see this astonishing view . But it was absolutely worth it.

The only thing spoiling my enjoyment is the litter scattered everywhere and the painted graffiti all over the rocks, a depressing sign of years of neglect and lack of respect for this incredible place. Rony seems determined to change things, but I don’t know how much influence one man can have.

Volcan Santa Maria: the descent

When we’ve had our fill of photos and sandwiches it’s time to start our descent . Back we pass through the pine forests we glimpsed earlier in the semi-darkness, illuminated now in the warmth of the early morning sun. Now we can enjoy the landscape of towering trees, spiky grasses and tangled roots, as well as the views out over Xela and the cheerful chirping of the dawn chorus.

Now we can see just how steep and slippery the route is: several times there’s a skid and a yelp as someone slides on the dusty path. Rony lends me his walking pole which helps a lot, but even so I go over a few times, and soon all of us have grubby bums and filthy hands.

Lower down we discover farmland that I never knew existed: fields of cabbages and maize, and farmers bringing their livestock to pasture. We greet a man and his son with two cows, a woman driving a herd of fluffy sheep and black-coated goats, and another local woman with a basket of flowers on her back, heading up the volcano to offer them to the gods at the top.

We meet more climbers too: intrepid enough to do the hike, but not quite mad enough to attempt it in the dark. We offer a friendly ‘buenos dias’ and a few words of encouragement, but secretly I’m feeling incredibly smug. We were the only ones who got to see that glorious sunrise, and now we are heading back home for tea and that much-needed hot bath, while they still have a fair way to go.

And when I look behind me at the peak, it’s engulfed in cloud. All that way, and they won’t even see anything.

Turns out going up for sunrise really is worth it after all.

Climbing Volcán Santa María: Facts and FAQs

Volcán santa maria: key facts.

• Height: 3,772 m / 12,375 ft
• Last eruption: 1902
• Is Santa Maria volcano still active? Volcan Santa Maria is considered active thanks to the activity of Santiaguito, which is part of the Volcan Santa Maria area. But the peak of the volcano that you climb is not currently considered active.
• Distance:  8 miles / 13 km
• Total walking time: About 6-7 hours
• Ascent time: 3-4 hours
• Descent time: 2-3 hours
• Elevation gain:  1,230m
• Difficulty:  Moderate to difficult
• Trailhead:  Volcan Santa Maria Park Entrance (or Llano de Pinal bus stop)

Where is Volcan Santa Maria?

Volcan Santa Maria is in Guatemala in Central America, about 6 miles or 10 km from the centre of the city of Quetzaltenango (aka. Xela) in western Guatemala.

Volcan Santa Maria weather

In general, the weather in Xela and the surrounding area is much colder that in the rest of Guatemala because you are in the highlands. Days can be warm but nights are distinctly chilly, even in the city.

And the weather at the top of the volcano is colder still! You should definitely bring layers and warm jacket for the top, where the wind chill can make the temperature drop to below zero degrees (32F).

Of course weather is unpredictable, but local reports say that typically the sky tends to be clear in the early morning, but it clouds over by around 10 am – which is exatly what I witnessed. This means that if you want to see anything from the top, you will need to start early.

But you should always check the weather forecast the day before. If it’s going to be bad weather or rainy, the trail will be slippery and treacherous and you won’t see anything from the top, so there’s little point in going.

How long does it take to hike Volcan Santa Maria?

Depending on your fitness and balance, it should take you about 3-4 hours to climb up, and about 2-3 hours to descend. We did the climb up in 3 hours 25 minutes, and down took us about 3 hours.

Can you climb Volcan Santa Maria without a guide?

Plenty of people do the hike without a guide. To do this, you will need to catch a public bus (known as a ‘chicken bus’) or take a taxi from Xela to the town of Llano de Pinal. The bus leaves from in front of the Iglesia El Calvario near Parque El Calvario.

Once you get to Llano de Pinal you’ll need to walk up the road towards the volcano to find the start of the trail. There is just one path up the volcano and it’s easy to follow, so it’s fine to do it independently. The only hard part might be finding the trailhead, but there are lots of good online guides to help you plan the route. Or if you start a bit later, you’ll simply be able to follow others going the same way.

However, if you want to climb the volcano for sunrise, you will need a guide or a tour group. The first bus from Xela to Llano del Pinal is not until 6 am, so you’ll need independent transport. Also for safety reasons, and to avoid getting lost in the dark, I recommend having an experienced local with you.

Another reason to do the climb with a tour group is that they start around 5 am, giving you plenty of time to get to the top before it clouds over. But if you wait until the first bus, you probably won’t start the climb much before 7 am. By the time you get to the top there’s a good chance the clouds will have rolled in and there’ll be nothing to see.

Santa Maria Volcano tour companies

I climbed the volcano with independent tour guide Rony Turnil, who you can find on Facebook . He charges Q150 (about £15) per person for daytime hikes and Q200 (£20) per person if you want to do it at night.

Two other recommended tour companies are Adrenalina Tours and Monte Verde Tours . Both offer group hikes costing around Q250 (£25) which usually start at around 5 am, meaning you will start in the dark, but the sun will rise before you reach the top. You should, however, get to see the views before the clouds roll in.

If you’re keen to do the night ascent like I did – and I highly recommend it – you’ll need to ask for a bespoke tour. But if you have at least two people ready to go, they will almost certainly be able to arrange it.

Is the Santa Maria Volcano hike difficult?

This is a hard question to answer because it really depends on your fitness, level of experience, and tolerance for altitude. I read several reviews that described it as extremely difficult, and for many people it will be. But while it was certainly challenging, it was not the hardest thing I have ever climbed, and I think it is very doable if you take your time.

But I’m a regular gym goer and tolerate altitude well. I wouldn’t recommend doing it if you’ve only just arrived and haven’t had a chance to acclimatise, or if you don’t have at least some experience with hiking and exercise.

What type of volcano is Santa Maria volcano?

Volcán Santa Maria is a stratovolcano. Stratovolcanoes are towering mountains formed by layers of hardened lava flows, ash, and volcanic debris built up over thousands of years. Other famous stratovolcanoes include Mount Fuji in Japan, Mount St. Helens in the United States, and Mount Vesuvius in Italy.

When did Santa Maria last erupt?

The last major (and catastrophic eruption) was in October 1902. It was one of the largest eruptions of the 20th century and an estimated 6,000 people died as a result.

20 years later, Santa Maria began erupting again out of a side vent and a new dome formed – Santiaguito. This is still active today.

Read more: Backpacking in Guatemala: All You Need To Know Before You Go

Is Volcan Santa Maria safe?

No volcano hike is completely safe, and no remote hike in Guatemala is free from risk. In the past there have been reports of robberies of tourists hiking alone, and of course there may also be the risk of earthquakes.

However, this is a popular hike, and if you take sensible precautions you should be absolutely fine. Don’t take expensive items or much money. Don’t hike alone at night – if you are on your own I definitely recommend going during the day or with a group.

What time should you do the Santa Maria hike?

If you want to be at the top for sunrise you should aim to start hiking about four hours before. I did the climb in April, when sunrise was at 5.45 am, so we left at 2 am and arrived at the top about 10 minutes before the sunrise. If we’d left any later or taken much longer we would have missed it.

If you don’t want to start that early, you should still leave around 5 am to be at the top by 9 am, so you can enjoy the views before it clouds over.

Read more: Is Guatemala Safe? 60+ Practical Tips For Safe Travel In Guatemala

When is the best time of year to hike Volcán Santa María?

The dry season in Guatemala is from November to April. Visit then, and you will have the best chance of getting good weather for your hike.

However, even in rainy season the mornings are typically clear and it only rains in the afternoons. So since this volcano climb is a morning activity, you should still be fine to do it during the rainy season. Of course it’s important to check the weather forecast to be sure.

What volcanoes can you see from the top of Volcan Santa Maria?

The line of volcanoes in the photo below is known locally as ‘volcano alley’. They are:

1. Santo Tomas 2. Paquisis 3. Atitlan 4. San Pedro 5. Toliman 6. Fuego 7. Acatenango.

And just peeking out behind it you can see a teensy part of Volcan de Agua.

Volcan de Fuego erupts regularly, so if you’re lucky you might be able to see the eruptions of Fuego from the top of volcano Santa Maria.

Read more: Yaxha Guatemala: The Magical Mayan Ruins You Need To Visit

On the other side, looking north and west from Volcan Santa Maria, you can see Chiquabal, Almolonga and Siete Orejas, and of course Santiaguato, which is right next to Santa Maria.

Read more: A Colourful Guide To Flores Guatemala: Gateway To The Maya World

What to pack for the Santa Maria Volcano climb

• Clothes: wear lightweight hiking clothes as you will get hot while climbing! I wore sports leggings, a t-shirt, and a light jacket which I soon took off. I also carried a warmer coat, gloves and a beanie for the top.
• Shoes: you don’t need hiking boots; sensible hiking shoes or sports trainers with a good grip will be fine. You will get dusty though!
• Food: I recommend 2 litres of water, plus a packed breakfast and snacks. I had two rounds of egg sandwiches, two cereal bars, and some biscuits to share with the group.
• Accessories: don’t forget a hat and sunscreen for after the sun comes up, your camera, and if you like walking with poles, bring those. I found having one very helpful on the descent.

Where to stay in Quetzaltenango Guatemala

I stayed at the beautiful Hostal Mucha in Xela. This is a very central and absolutely beautiful boutique hostel with huge rooms with private bathrooms, two peaceful courtyards and a communal kitchen and dining area. Essentially it’s a hotel but at hostel prices; it’s very quiet but a really lovely place to stay and a total bargain too (I paid just £20 a night!).

Other popular places to stay include Kasa Kiwi and Casa Seibel . These are both more typical hostels with a fun, sociable vibe and an in-house travel agency to help you plan your adventures.

And that’s it! Thanks for reading! This was just the first of many Guatemala adventures to come, so make sure to check out my other Guatemala posts in the Destinations tab!

My favourite travel tools and brands

To help you organise your trip, here’s a short list of some of the brands and tools I use over and over again when I’m planning my travels. You can see more on my Travel Resources page.

• Booking.com : A huge range of hotels to choose from, often with free cancellation. If you book hotels regularly you can earn discounts. I’m on Genius Level 3 which gets me 20% off!
• Expedia : Another great place to find hotels and Expedia also sell flights , car hire, and loads more all in one place.
• Skyscanner : The only place I ever go to search for flights and compare prices.
• Flight Centre : Booking a more complicated route? Let Flight Centre organise it for you (and deal with the drama when something goes wrong).
• Priority Pass: I love having access to 1,400+ airport lounges when I fly, allowing me to enjoy my time at the airport. With my link you get 30% off a standard membership or 20% off standard plus.
• Airalo: Say goodbye to ridiculous mobile roaming charges. Did you know you can now buy an e-SIM , install it in your phone before you leave home, and then use data abroad at local prices? Game changer.
• TourRadar: If you prefer group travel and organised tours, TourRadar has a huge range of fantastic tours from respected operators. They’re very helpful and have 4.5 stars on TrustPilot.
• Viator: Part of the TripAdvisor brand, Viator is another great place to search for group adventures and day trips.
• GetYourGuide: A great place to find local tours and day trips in your destination.
• Wex Photo Video: The UK’s best camera gear store. Quote my name – Bella Falk – to get £20 off your first purchase.
• Ellis Brigham: Looking for good quality backpacks, travel clothes and other gear? Ellis Brigham is where I buy almost all of mine.
• Rentalcars.com: Part of the Booking.com family and the world’s largest online car rental service, with 24/7 customer service.
• World Nomads Travel Insurance: I never ever travel without travel insurance and nor should you!

Where to next?

If you’re planning to hike volcano Santa Maria in Guatemala you definitely shouldn’t miss some of my other posts. There are tonnes in my Guatemala archives , or why not try one of these?

• The Thrilling Volcan De Acatenango Hike In Antigua Guatemala

A Review Of Villa Bokeh, A Luxury Hotel In Antigua Guatemala

• A Guide To Flores Guatemala: Why I Loved This Maya Town
• Yaxha Guatemala: The Magical Mayan Ruins You Need To Visit
• Is Guatemala Safe? 60+ Practical Tips For Safe Travel In Guatemala
• Backpacking In Guatemala: All You Need To Know Before You Go
• A Perfect Guatemala Itinerary In 10 Days, 2 Weeks Or 3 Weeks

Liked this Volcan Santa Maria hike post?

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Bella is a multi-award-winning travel writer, wildlife photographer and science and history documentary director from London. Among many awards and nominations she won Blogger of the Year at the British Guild of Travel Writers’ Awards 2023 and Best Photography at the Travel Media Awards 2020. Her work has been published by National Geographic, Wanderlust, and BBC Travel among others. Her films have been shown around the world including on the BBC, Discovery and PBS.

Further Reading...

28 Tried And Tested Things To Do In Antigua Guatemala

Kipalo Hills Lodge In Tsavo West, Kenya: My Complete Review

A Safari In Tanzania: A Sneaky Peek Behind The Scenes

An essential active beach resort vacation packing list.

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Trek Xela to Lake Atitlan

Quick facts

Map & expenses

Packing list

Similar trips

Experience the magic of Guatemala with a 3-day trek from Xela to Lake Atitlan. Traverse through stunning cloud forests, corn fields, and coffee plantations while enjoying the beauty of rivers, creeks, and ravines.

Immerse yourself in the culture of small towns along the way and witness a breathtaking sunrise over the renowned Lago de Atitlan. Gain a deeper understanding of the thriving indigenous communities that inhabit Quetzaltenango, Xela, Lake Atitlan, and San Pedro la Laguna.

Lake Atitlan

Latin America’s most beautiful lake

Mayan Nose mountain

Mayan Villages

San Marcos La Laguna

Culinary experience

Traditional food

Quick facts Lake Atitlan

Regular backpack weight: 10 kilograms. Maximum altitude: 3050 meters above sea level. Total trek length: 46 kilometers.

Description:  An early transfer will take you from your hotel in  Quetzaltenango  to Cantel where the adventure starts. Walking uphill and climbing out of the Xela Valley, you will reach Chrisbel community where we will stay overnight. Today we will reach  Alaska , the highest point of the hike at 3,050 meters above sea level. 

Here you will enjoy one of the most beautiful views of Lake Atitlan and many volcanoes, like San Pedro Volcano in San Pedro la Laguna, Atitlan, Toliman, Fuego, Acatenango, Agua, Santa Maria, Cerro Quemado, Tajumulco, Tacana and many more! 

The trip is moderately difficult as the hiking terrain will be rolling hills, as well as flat terrain in some parts. The walk/hike is part of the chain of mountains Madre Mountains, a beautiful and isolated part of Guatemala’s nature. During this day, hikers will eat meals with locals who will be cooking homemade food with tortillas made on a comal.

At the end of the day, you will also have the opportunity to take a bath in a temazcal, a traditional Maya sauna and relax by a homestay fire.

Hour by hour trek:

• 8:00 a.m. A driver and your guide will pick you up from your hotel
• 8:30 a.m. Begin ascending out of the Xela valley
• 10:30 a.m.  Reach Alaska, the highest peak of the trek at 3050 meters above the sea level 
• 11:30 a.m. Start descending into the cloud forest
• 1:30 p.m. Lunch
• 5:00 p.m. Arrive at the town centre of Santa Catarina Ixtahuacan
• 5:30 p.m. Time to relax and take a Temescal, a Mayan sauna. 
• 6:30 p.m. Dinner

Description:  The second day of this trek will start with an early breakfast, and then you will begin the descent for about 2 1/2 hours through natural surroundings with pine trees and coffee farms. Soon the most difficult part of the trek will come, 30 minutes of a very slippery route to finally arrive at small river. 

The group will reach  Santa Clara La Laguna  village where we will sleep overnight and eat a delicious home cooked dinner with an indigenous family. Today ends enjoying a campfire.

• 7:00 a.m. Breakfast at a local restaurant
• 8:00 a.m. Departure
• 10:00 a.m. Arrive to Record Hill
• 11:30 a.m. Visit the Ice Cream town of Tzucubal
• 2:30 p.m. Descend to the seven river crossings
• 4:10 p.m. Last ascend to the place known as “The Corn Field of Death”
• 5:00 p.m. Arrive at your host-family in the town of Xiprian
• 6:00 pm. Delicious home-cooked traditional dinner
• 7:00 p.m. Bonfire

Description:  The final day of this amazing 3-day trek from Xela to Lake Atitlan begins by waking up early to walk to the lookout, to watch the sunrise over the beautiful lake, while eating breakfast with the most amazing view. Once the sun is up and after enjoying the astonishing spectacle of the sunrise over the lake, you will descend through coffee groves into the villages and stop at a cooperative to rest and enjoy a cup of fresh local coffee. 

From there, we will take a ride to  San Pedro  where we can swim, eat lunch and await our bags at the waterside restaurant before saying goodbye to this unforgettable 3 day trek.

• 4:30 a.m. Early morning to hike to the lookout of the mountain ‘The Nose of the Mayan’
• 5:35 a.m. Arrive at the lookout, prepare breakfast, and contemplate the fascinating sunrise over lake Atitlan, its three imposing volcanoes, and astonishing mountains. 
• 8:30 a.m. Go down to the through coffee plantations in the direction of the town San Juan La Laguna. 
• 10:00 a.m. Once in San Juan La Laguna, we will have a hot cup of the best organic coffee in the world. 
• 11:00 a.m. We will take a truck or car to the town of San Pedro La Laguna. 
• 11:30 a.m. In San Pedro, we will have a traditional lunch, swim and relax. Your luggage will arrive today in San Pedro.

map, expenses & price

Expenses included: -Ground transportation. -Camping and cooking equipment. -Local certified guides. -Two breakfasts, two lunches, and two dinners. -Water, juice, coffee, tea, and snacks -Park entrance fee. *This tour is exclusively available to guests who plan their trip with us.

travel advice

Things to bring and wear.

• Hiking boots or trekking shoes
• Large-capacity backpack (50L+) with rain cover
• One warm layer and/or windbreaker
• Rain jacket (May thru October)
• Breathable quick dry clothes for 3 days
• Personal toiletries and/or medications
• Camera, hat, sunglasses, insect repellent & sunscreen
• Extra wool socks

5 days & 4 nights

6 days & 5 nights

11 days & 10 nights

Travel Advisory

El Salvador

© MAYAN GATEWAY | TERMS OF SERVICE | PRIVACY

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Last updated on January 29, 2024 by Shannon

Guatemala ranks as one of my favorite places in the world. I planned to travel Guatemala for three weeks—instead I stayed for nearly three months. There is something uniquely calm and charming about the country. The culture is rich and accessible and the landscape is just gorgeous—perhaps that’s why I fangirl over it so hard.

Guatemala is one of the best spots in Central America for travelers of all types and stripes, and knew I needed to write a complete Guatemala travel guide so others could discover the nuances that make this country so memorable.

If you’re planning a backpacking trip through Central America, you will surely hear about the dangers. As a region, the dangers are both founded and unfounded. There are legitimate safety issues around transportation, specifically, and Central America in general is a place where you don’t want to be in the wrong place at the wrong time. But in Guatemala, the violence is not as pervasive in the places travelers visit.

Although I heard some stories, I never encountered violence in the two and half months I traveled the country. Instead, I found traveling in Guatemala featured incredibly warm people who are open and happy for the tourism coming to their country. The indigenous Mayan culture is alive and full, and Guatemala is home to the most beautiful natural and Mayan sites in the world.

It’s worth planning to spend several weeks in Guatemala if you’re backpacking the region, or know that you could easily fill a two-week vacation if you’re planning a short trip just to Guatemala. This Guatemala travel guide includes city recommendations for my favorite experiences in the country, as well as a socially responsible section with volunteer recommendations.

Table of Contents

Things to Know Before Traveling to Guatemala

Many of the most notable sites in the Guatemala mark the height of the Maya civilization. The two most populated Maya cities were located here, El Mirador and Tikal. These sites alone make Guatemala one of the more fascinating and unique Central American destinations.

Guatemala’s history dates back as far as 18,000 BC, and from that time onward the country carved a fascinating path through history. This pre-Columbian history is evident in the range of sights in the northern and central highlands of Guatemala. Many of the most notable sights in the country mark the height of the Maya civilization. In fact, the two most populated Maya cities were located here: El Mirador and Tikal.

Though Tikal is the most famous of the two, this is merely because it’s better excavated and easier to visit. El Mirador is thought to have been the central point of the Maya world. By 900 AD, however, the Maya civilization had collapsed and this gave rise later to the colonial history visibly present throughout Guatemala.

The country’s colonial history contributes a lot to its modern charm. Antigua is picturesque, with cobbled streets and a rainbow of colors staggering across the city’s buildings. Like nearby Mexico , Guatemala was occupied by the Spanish until the early 1800s. It’s at this point that more complicated political history begins.

A series of dictators controlled the country, and civil wars raged in efforts to both keep control, as well as to better unite the Central American nations. In 1996, the bloodiest time in the country’s history came to a close, the Guatemalan Civil War , as peace accords were signed with the help of the United Nations.

Since then, the country has more government stability than before, and many war crimes from the civil war are still being tried in court.

And as was the case throughout the war, and throughout Guatemalan-specific politics, rides the overarching issue of the Central American drug trade. This situation fluctuates as new policies and politics shift and change.

In general, the drug route through Honduras has a small effect on Guatemala too, as this has brought increased crime, but the country has done a better job than neighboring countries in containing the drug violence to isolated areas outside of the main tourist routes.

The additional readings below provide more information on both the regional drug issues, as well as the country’s complicated political history.

Is it Safe to Travel to Guatemala?

Guatemala is one of the least safe areas of Central America, mostly because of the drug routes northward. Importantly, however, this violence is not targeted at tourists —it’s for this reason that most western governments haven’t issued the highest alerts. That being said, it’s significantly safer than nearby Honduras and El Salvador.

How do you maximize your safety in Guatemala? Well, like many places in the region, night travel has higher risk factors. And understand all that it entails to practice safety while traveling —there’s more to it than you think.

Above all, exercise caution and stay on the tourist route. Guatemala is not a place where you want to let your guard down, particularly on a travel day. You would have to be in the wrong place at the wrong time to experience more than petty crime. Anything can happen on the road. I am a firm advocate of travel insurance like IMG Global ; these are my top tips to pick a good travel insurance .

Pick out accommodation on Booking.com.

This is the only booking platform I use because it rewards you for loyalty, and I regularly score free breakfasts and 15% off my hotel.

Fast Facts About Guatemala Travel

Quetzal (GTQ) ( current exchange rate )

Electricity

127V/60Hz (American plug)

Guatemala’s Primary Airports

La Aurora International Airport in Guatemala City (GUA), Mundo Maya International Airport in Flores (FRS)

Can You Drink the Water in Guatemala?

No, you cannot drink the water in Guatemala, it’s not safe for travelers. Drink bottled, or consider the merits of carrying a water bottle and using a  SteriPen or LifeStraw on your trip.

How’s the wifi in Guatemala?

Wondering if there is wifi in Guatemala? Oh yes. You can find internet everywhere in Guatemala and it is decent-to-good. You can upload photos and information and could run a virtual business from nearly any Guatemalan city.

Internet cafes abound and your accommodation will offer free wifi. You’ll need a VPN if you plan to access many U.S. sites and to stream U.S. Netflix, and to protect your public browsing at cafes. I’ve used NordVPN since 2016 and it’s never failed me yet.

How to Get a SIM Card in Guatemala?

SIMs are super easy to procure and coverage is widespread. Go with Tigo over the other two. About $20 US will get you a SIM card and a month of data. Full SIM card guide here —this covers all the Guate specifics you might need. You might also need a VPN on your phone— NordVPN works there too.

Getting a Guatemala Visa

American, EU. and British passport holders enter for free and can stay for up to 90 days. Guatemala is a part of the CA-4 agreement , however, so that entry gives you a total of 90s in the four countries of Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador, and Nicaragua. Other nationalities can check the visa requirements here .

Where to Learn Spanish

Guatemala may very well be the cheapest country in Central and South America to study Spanish. Even better, the country is well set up for this task.

You have three main options: Xela, San Pedro, and Antigua. Xela is by far the best option, there is very little English spoken around the city and it’s conducive to total immersion.

You’ll find slower progress if you take classes in either of the other touristy spots where you can cheat and easily chat with other Westerners for the bulk of every day.

Food Considerations

Traveling as a vegetarian in Guatemala is, well, boring on occasion. Rice and beans will be a staple of your diet (if you’re a strict vegetarian be aware that some refried beans are off-limits).

It can be tough at times to find quick veggie food so bring your granola bars. Meals are often complemented with plantains and avocado and they will nearly always substitute scrambled eggs for the meat in any dish if you ask! 

Accommodation

Guatemala has an extensive tourism network of guesthouses, homestays, and hostels. The country has rock-bottom budget accommodation as low as $4 per night in some areas.

For backpackers,  Booking.com is perfect for pre-booking hostels; in high season the bigger towns book up fast. Everything can be easily reserved online. If none of these will do, check out my detailed guide to finding good places to stay .

Festivals of Note

• Semana Santa  takes place most notably in Antigua and occurs in the week before Easter each year (April).
• Dia de los Muertos is celebrated across Guatemala and takes places on and around October 31st (October).

How Much Does Traveling Guatemala Cost?

Guatemala is a budget-friendly country. Expect rock bottom prices on the backpacker route, and you can find beautiful accommodation and meals if you spring for a bit higher budget. You can easily average US $25-$30 per day including meals, lodging, and activities on the budget end. A mid-range couple’s budget will run about $90 for nicer digs.

When to Visit Guatemala

Year-round is a pretty good time to visit. Dry season is high season and runs from October through April. Wet season usually just has a couple hours of rain each day and is still lovely, particularly because there are fewer people.

Possible Issues

Keep your belongings close, and probably best to ensure you have both travel and gear insurance —I use and recommend IMG Global for most travelers, and SafetyWing for digital nomads or those on a long trip. Be alert and cautious. 

How to Get Around Guatemala

For getting around Guatemala, you’ll likely use a combination of chicken buses (these are retired U.S. school buses transformed into public transport) and shuttle buses.

It’s super easy to book shuttles to and from every city. Bookaway is the easy way to plan and book—you can see each type of transport between the cities you’re visiting and book online. You can also arrange with your guesthouse/hostel.

Keep in mind though: Transportation is the most dangerous aspect of traveling because the drivers hug corners and drive far faster than is safe. If riding on chicken buses, always  keep your purse/daypack on your lap— never put it above you in the buses, nor under your seat.

Your bigger pack may have to go above or below the bus, but it’s worth asking if you can take it on with you. Sometimes they let you shove your big bag under your feet and you can relax a bit more knowing that your pack is safe.

And don’t fall asleep on buses—basically, understand that you will get robbed if it’s easy to do so. This is the same for pickpocketing, walking in dark alleys late at night, etc.

World Travel Planning Resources

From the best travel gear to how to pick travel insurance—a detailed list of resources, tips, and advice to help you plan an amazing trip.

Pre-Trip Reading Inspiration: Books About Guatemala

Fiction & Nonfiction Books About Guatemala:

• When the Ground Turns in Its Sleep : This is a beautiful novel that will give you a sense of time, place, and history—all woven together into a compelling narrative that makes it endlessly readable.
• Popol Vuh: The Mayan Book of The Dawn of Life and The Glories of Gods and Kings ( Kindle Edition) : If Maya history is your thing, then this is the definitive guide. It will give you all the backstory you need to fully enjoy the numerous Maya temples you’ll visit while traveling Central America.
• A Forest of Kings: The Untold Story of the Ancient Maya : Descend into the Mayan culture throughout Mexico, Belize and Guatemala in this travel narrative that dives deep into the regional culture, ancient Mayan beliefs about time, as well as a look at modern Mayan culture.
• Jungle of Stone: The True Story of Two Men, Their Extraordinary Journey, and the Discovery of the Lost Civilization of the Maya : A fascinating tale chronicling the two men who traveled through the Yucatán and Central America in search of the Maya Kingdom, and brought this ancient civilization back to the world.

Guatemala Podcasts and Online Reads:

• Guatemala Travel : The Amateur Traveler Podcast covers Guatemala recently and looks at the highs, the lows, and what it’s like to travel this country right now.
• The Reality in Guatemala : NPR pairs up with a Guatemalan documentary filmmaker to take a close look at the child refugee crisis. It’s a quick listen.
• What Happened At Dos Erres : Understand the complicated relationship between the military and the people in this fascinating episode of This American Life.
• Cracking the Maya Code — NOVA : This PBS program is the best way to watch the history of the Maya unfold, as the NOVA program deep dives into what it took to finally decipher Maya script.

Find more regional fiction and nonfiction books and long-reads  and you can read all  my Guatemala travel stories .

Recommended Guidebook

I love the Lonely Planet Guatemala for traveling this part of Central America—the transportation details in the guidebook are super useful.

Socially Responsible Travel in Guatemala

Guatemala has a large indigenous population, particularly in the northern and central highlands. There are a ton of opportunities to immerse in this culture through home-stays or treks. This indigenous culture also means there are unique considerations.

Guatemala has a wide range of socioeconomic levels. You will find wealthier and middle class Guatemalans in Antigua, Guate City, and other parts, and the more rural areas are often marked by stark poverty and high rates of illiteracy.

There is also a rising level of responsible travel awareness. You can find fair-trade businesses in most any sector, as well as ecolodges and socially responsible tour operators. Use these travel tips throughout all regions of Guatemala to ensure you’re the most responsible traveler possible.

Book a day tour to maximize your time.

GetYourGuide has a phenomenal range of tours, and they’re affordable too. Maximize your time by booking your must-dos as a tour, and then slot in the rest as time permits.

Explore Indigenous Cultures

You’ll want to dress respectfully when visiting rural markets and trekking in remote areas. These cultures are more conservative than the more predominant Hispanic culture in Guatemala and other areas of this region. Also be considerate when taking photos—always ask before taking photos of the locals or of children.

One of the best ways to support these regions of Guatemala is through respectful and responsible tourism. Consider taking a hike and spreading money into the villages, or visiting the fascinating markets (like Chichicastenango) in more remote areas of the country.

Bargain Respectfully

Bargaining is a part of Guatemalan culture, and you will definitely receive a tourist price when you initially ask for the price of an item. But, remember that the small fluctuations in your price make a comparatively huge difference in the lives of those selling you goods and services. Keep your cool, use your Spanish if you have it, and stay friendly.

There are places in the world where the goal is to bilk tourists—Guatemala is not one of them. The prices are often a bit higher than a local would pay, but not obscene. And if you prefer to shop without bargaining, head to a fair-trade cooperative. The textiles (rugs, scarves, jewelry, etc) are priced fairly for all involved and you know your money is funneled responsibly into more rural communities.

Support Local Businesses

Travel and tourism in Guatemala are pretty well developed. Local tour operators can help you do and find most any activity you can imagine. Using local businesses, as opposed to booking things through foreign operators, leaves money behind in the communities. This is an important part of responsible travel.

Some businesses may exaggerate their level of support for some sort of social issue, but even those are still at the very least paying local wages and supporting the local economy. Even more, check through these  Guatemala social enterprises  to find vetted local businesses that support a social mission that makes your money’s impact travel even further.

Volunteer in Guatemala

There are no shortage of volunteering opportunities in Guatemala. This is a mecca of volunteering. Most language schools throughout the country—from Antigua, to Panajachel, to Xela—offer affiliated volunteer opportunities.

There are also amble organizations running separate from the language schools. You can work with everything from agriculture to street children to education. And a lot in between. Start here for researching  volunteer projects in Guatemala .

Maintain a Low Trash Impact

Trekking through the indigenous highlands between Lake Átitlan and Xela is popular—don’t liter, even if the locals do. Your guides should help you dispose of this responsibly, particularly if you are using a sustainable trekking company like Quetzaltrekkers .  And for women, use a menstrual cup for not only easy of travel, but it’s eco-friendly, too.

Don’t forget to  book travel insurance for your trip —a great policy provides coverage in case of medical emergencies, lost or stolen gear, adventure sports riders, and more. I’ve used  IMG Global  for more than a decade  highly recommend it !

Best Things to Do in Guatemala

Guatemala is a larger country than you might assume at first glance, and the topography makes for incredibly long travel days between some popular locations. Getting from Flores to Antigua is a loooong travel day if you do it in one shot, for example—it’s through mountainous terrain and covers a lot of mileage. For that reason, many travelers break up the trip with time visiting the waterfalls of Semuc Champey—a real highlight and beauty during Guatemala travels.

Also, as you read through the city guides below, each one shares several of the great social projects and organizations that you can support on your Guatemala travels.

My Favorite Travel Experiences in Guatemala

• Spending several weeks around Easter learning the  life cycle of a Semana Santa carpet .
• Endless days spent wandering the charming streets of Antigua .
• Taking a day trip to  see the red hot lava at Pacaya Volcano .
• Riding a  Guatemalan Chicken Bus .
• Learning how to relax and enjoy the sweet life on the Rio Dulce .

Antigua, Guatemala

Antigua is the hub of traveling in Guatemala. It’s a mere 45 minutes from Guatemala City, it’s a lot safer. It also has connections everywhere else in Guatemala, as well as all nearby countries. You should never have to stay in Guate City, even for your flight. Antigua is so close and it’s a much safer option than Guate City.

The town is touristy, but I love it. It has gorgeous architecture and it’s a nice pit stop if you get burned out at any point. I spent many weeks here throughout my months in Guate. It has good food, lots of English, and it’s affordable (although a bit pricier than other Guatemalan cities).

What to See and Do

Climb a volcano to see active lava..

Hiking a volcano is the top-billed activity in Antigua, and for just reason—it’s neat. It can be dangerous, however, so be careful. When booking, ask around to find out if there is visible lava at the site that week.

This post shares my Pacaya Volcano trip  and tips on what to bring.

If you are a more adventurous hiker, then a trip to the top of Acatenango Volcano might be a good option. Josh shared about his sunrise hike here .

Enjoy pancakes at Valhalla Macadamia Nut Farm.

A mere 15 minute chicken bus ride out of town. This is a great way to spend a morning. They also have a commitment to sustainability and a fantastic mission to help lift locals out of poverty. The owners have lived in the community for decades. So worth a morning. They have delicious macadamia pancakes—go for breakfast and go hungry! I wrote about my  visit to Valhalla’s Macadamia Farm  and you can find directions on their site .

Visit the Finca Filadelfia coffee plantation.

This is well worth the price (around US $20)  if you’ve never toured a coffee plantation. The tour takes you from coffee cheerier to darkly roasted coffee. They include a complimentary coffee or espresso at the end! It’s just outside of town. Recent reports from readers indicate that they also offer birding, paintballing, and ziplines. I shared a bit  about the tour . You can  book services directly through Finca , or through your accommodation.

Where to Seep

• Budget : Yellow House Hostel (Casa Amarilla) should be your first choice when visiting in Antigua. The place is impeccably clean, breakfast is a big buffet, and it’s cheaper than some of the other “top” picks you hear about. (It’s cheaper than both Black Cat and Jungle Party). It’s walkable to the bars but not a party hostel in the least. Also has a hostel kitchen and cable in the cheap private rooms.
• Midrange : Consider Hotel Casa Cristina for a midrange budget—a nice place to stay thats safe and nice but wont break the bank.
• Stay in a nice spot : There’s a heap of accommodation in Antigua and  Meson Panza Verde is a nice place from which to organize your search.

Where to Eat

• Hops & Tales: 3 Calle Oriente #19.  Good craft beer scene from recent travelers reporting in.
• Café Boheme: Calle Poniente #5a.  Good spot with clean food and you can surely find some good vegetarian options.
• Rainbow Cafe: Ave Sur #6 at 6a Calle.  Long term travelers in Antigua camp-out for breakfast and lunch at this tiny little restaurant. It’s just two tables but serves fantastic falafel, shawarma, and other Israeli favorites.
• La Luna Miel : 6 Avenida Norte N19A.  I could wax poetic about the fresh spinach salads here. They “do” crepes, but I come for the fresh cold salads, an anomaly in Guatemala.
• Bagel Barn : 5a Calle Poniente #2.  Free wifi and a variety of fun toppings on your bagels. A good choice for breakfast and the coffee is pretty good to boot!
• Reilly’s Irish Pub : 5a ave. nte. #31.  An institution at this point it is good fun. They have a Sunday pub quiz, which is always a blast if you have a group with you, or a group going from your hostel.
• El Mono Loco : Parque Central on 5a ave. sur.  Gringo-fied for sure but it’s also filled with locals enjoying the sports-bar atmosphere.

Xela (Quetzaltenango)

Xela (Quetzaltenango) is the center of volunteer activity and Spanish language learning in Guatemala. It’s less than five hours north of Antigua/Guatemala City and there is very little English spoken throughout the city. It’s the perfect spot for reasonably priced Spanish language lessons, home-stays, and most schools also have volunteer opportunities. There’s great trekking here too.

This town is far enough north that it’s not fully on the backpacker route, except for those busing in from the Mexico border. There is little partying to be had here, although if you’re a part of a school they will organize fun evenings out and dancing. Shuttles leave from the Lake Atitlan cities, as well as Antigua, but the chicken buses are much cheaper and will get you there too.

Most travelers come to Xela to either volunteer or learn Spanish—or both. Literally, that’s what you do here. It’s a big city so it’s best to have a purpose for visiting or you might not enjoy all of your time here as much as other cities.

Money Warning : Only use ATMs inside of banks with a guard and during daylight hours. There are have long been issues with some ATMS near the parque central .

Improve your Spanish classes.

There are dozens of Spanish Language schools to pick from and all of them offer a huge range of types of Spanish classes. And you could be a super newbie, or be looking to perfect and fine-tune.

I used and loved Pop Wuj . They offer one-on-one Spanish lessons, a home-stay if you want it, and several volunteer programs you can be a part of when not in classes. Medical students will particularly benefit from Pop Wuj’s specialized program. Individual is the best way to go and you’ll progress quickly in Xela because so little Spanish is spoken. This piece covers  my personal experience learning Spanish in Xela with Pop Wuj .

Volunteer for a cause you care about.

I volunteered through my Spanish language school. This is the easiest way if you’re already there taking classes. Nearly every language school has an affiliated volunteer program.

Additionally, if you’re just wanting to volunteer, sans the classes, ask the schools. I know that Pop Wuj  allows non-students to participate in its bi-weekly stove building volunteer project outside of Xela . There are also plenty of medical volunteer opportunities, teaching English, and other options.

Do some online research but it’s actually easiest to show up in Xela and ask once you’re there—most have programs starting weekly, and often the very next day! Find a list of vetted Guatemala volunteer programs here , or a huge list of them here too.

Hike the Guatemala highlands.

The altitude in Xela and surrounding countryside make this spot amazing for day and weekend trips outside of the city. Again, many schools will organize these trips for you, but if not, then use Quetzaltrekkers —reliable and good food and they participate in social good.

Attend a local football game.

Xela is in a huge rivalry with Guate City over their football teams and these weekly games (during the season) are a blast. Ask around for the next game and once you’re there enjoy the fiercely patriotic fanaticism on Xelaju football enthusiasts. I had a great  experience at a Xela football game  with the other language students.

Enjoy movie night with new friends.

Your Spanish language school will host these on a weekly basis. Otherwise (or in addition!) head to the Blue Angel Video Cafe  (7a Calle Zona 1), this is a hot spot for meeting other language students and backpackers and they regularly show movies.

Engage in organized social activities.

Most of the activities in Xela are organized by the schools. If you’re a part of a language school, it will have a calendar of daily and weekly activities to meet others.

Find a nice place to sleep.

Many Xela hostels have serious bed-bug problems so be aware and check your mattress!

Budget : Huellas Hostal is a great budget option with clean rooms and decent amenities. You can’t go wrong and it’s likely walkable to your language school.

Hostel Don Diego is also a solid choice. I stayed here rather than a home-stay because I needed wifi to work. It’s near the Parque Central, but a solid 15 minute from Pop Wuj, my Spanish language school. Cheap private rooms, decent internet access, but they do nickel and dime you on using the kitchen, wifi, and other generally free hostel amenities. There are likely better now, but it’s not a bad place.

Homestays : Ask questions and outline your expectations to your language school before you do a home-stay! Some home-stays have you eating nightly with the family and they interact a lot with you, others organize separate meals and are more hands-off with the language students. Home-stays can be an amazing way to force you into learning Spanish faster—just know which kind you’re expecting and tell your school :)

Stay in a nice spot . Consider  Hotel Modelo for a nice place from which to organize your search.

Seek out great Guatemalan food.

These were my favorite places to eat in Xela.

• Giardino: 6 Calle (btwn 14 & 15 av) Zona 3. The pizza and Italian food here is pretty legitimate and tasty. Pricey, comparatively, but worth a visit if you’re looking for some non-local food.
• Rosario’s Comedor: Corner of 13a Av & 5a Calle Town Center. A great spot for local food. They serve breakfast and lunch and the menu changes daily.
• Sabor de La India : 15 Avenida 3-64, Zona 1. A good spot for when you just need something different than Guatemalan fare.
• Local Eats: Ladies selling fruit by the bag wander the city around lunch time (and all day really) so this is a great way to snack. Also, check out the food stalls near the Casa de la Cultura. Small comedores abound, so ask a local for their favorite for a meal under $3.

Flores Travel Guide

Flores is the gateway to Tikal, so you’ll need to stay here likely two nights. The best Tikal excursions are the dawn trips that allow you to enter the park for a beautiful sunrise.

Transport comes to Flores from Belize , and also most of the shuttles and buses will leave from Antigua and Guate City. There is also a small airport if the mega-killer bus rides are not your thing. This post has a good overview of getting to Flores .

• Stay at Amigos Hostel . This is the number one backpacker spot and it’s a cute and well-appointed place. They have the routine down pat and will get you to and from Tikal, and onto your shuttle, without issue.
• Stay at Hotel Casa Amelia . This spot is a bit nicer but still affordable and distinctly lacking that busy backpacker vibe.
• Visit Tikal . If you book through Amigos it will be a pretty huge group. Still fun though. You can also stay in the park at one of the lodges for a one-of-a-kind experience as you are the only ones in the park at dawn. This is a big business for Flores, so it’s easy to book either large or small group trips out to the ruins. It usually includes transport and a guide.
• Try Fonda Ixobel for lunch or dinner.  On the corner of Avenida Santa Ana and Calle Central, this spot has delicious and clean food and you will leave full.
• Find street eats near Santa Elena Bus Station . There is a huge range of budget street eats near here each evening, so plan on a budget dinner in this area if you’re so inclined.

Semuc Champey

This is one of the most beautiful spots in the country. It was still off-the-path in January 2010 when I was there, but friends who were there in early 2016 report that there are a heap more adventure activities. It’s a fun spot and a great way to break up the drive between Flores and Antigua. You’ll likely want to stay in Lanquin and then take a daytrip to the waterfalls. It’s a short drive and there’s much more to do in Lanquin. More on getting to Lanquin here .

• Stay at El Retiro . This is a gorgeous spot and it’s socially responsible. They are committed to the community. There’s also just a heck of a lot to do here with a well built out grounds with fun activities.
• Consider  Utopia Eco-Hotel . This spot is much more remote, and a bit like a retreat. Travelers report that it’s a great spot from which you can head to the waterfalls, while also experiencing the other nature in this area.
• Visit Semuc Champey . Book a trip through your guesthouse and plan on a full day out at the caves and waterfalls. Most of the trips all include the caves, some tubing, and then the waterfalls. Best to pack your water clothes, as well as water shoes if possible. You will be grateful for your Chacos or sports sandals on a daytrip like this one.

Lake Atitlán

This is a hugely popular spot in Guatemala, and for good reason. It’s stunningly pretty, fantastically affordable, and has a range of fun activities. Many travelers are there to learn Spanish, other just to relax.

Be warned that there is a bit of a drug culture in some of the towns, backpackers smoking pot. This is not recommended. When I was at San Pedro on Lake Atitlán, there was a huge drug raid that saw many foreigners in jail. Beyond that though, there are several towns on the lake, each with a different vibe, so read up on each before you decide which is a good fit for your travel plans.

• Hike the extinct volcano at sunrise .
• Go shopping or volunteer at Maya Traditions in Panajachel . This is a fair-trade shop with a bit of everything you might want to buy. They also need long-term volunteers if you’re keen to help out and live on the lake for a bit.
• Buy a good book and relax by the lake . The lake is gorgeous and the towns were built for quiet days of rest and relaxation.
• Study Spanish . There are heaps of schools in Panajachel and San Pedro if you’d like this sort of vibe alongside your Spanish learning.
• Stay in a nice spot . There are a few great accommodations in Atitlan. Consider Eco Hotel Uxlabil Atitlan  a midrange hotel with a private jetty and free kayaks for guests to use. Posada de Santiago is also exceedingly lovely and it has several price points.

Onward travel

Having spent a number of months backpacking Central America and Mexico across multiple trips, plan your time in the following locations.

Mexico » Yucatan Peninsula | Yucatan with Kids | Oaxaca City | San Pancho | Guanajuato | Chichen Itza | Secret Mud Beach | Cultural Immersion | Taco History | Colonial Mexico

Guatemala » Antigua | Tikal | Rio Dulce | Xela | Chichicastenango | Learning Spanish | Semana Santa | Easter Traditions

Belize » Chetumal Border | Culture

Honduras » Copan Ruinas | Utila | Culture

Guatemala Travel Guide: Stories from the Blog

Read and research your trip using all of my travel stories from Guatemala—each story was written live on my travel blog as I traveled through the region. I share detailed guides and stories about cultural quirks, fun activities, and things I enjoyed doing in every area of Guatemala.

A Little Podcast… Stories of Traveling Through Guatemala

A Little Travel Memory… Firelight, Stoves, and Big Smiles in Rural Guatemala

A Little Relaxation… Finding the Unexpected Sweet Life on the Rio Dulce

A Little Travel Memory… Street Mime in Antigua

A Little Culture… Unlocking Culture at the Bustling Chichicastenango Market

A Little Questionable… Yep, a Guatemalan Drug Bust

A little volunteering… building stoves in rural guatemala.

A Little Travel Memory… Children Being Children in Guatemala

A Little Bargaining… Navigating the Cultural Nuances of Respectful Haggling

A Little Football… Guatemala’s All Enthusiasm

A Little Volunteering… Sweet Faces of Xela’s Children

A Little Language… Learning Spanish in Xela, Guatemala

A Little Spectacle… Yes, Gringos Grow That Tall

A Little Learning… Finding Authenticity in Antigua, Guatemala

A Little Tour… Macadamia Nuts and Social Good in Antigua, Guatemala

A Little Hike… Finding Red Hot Lava on Pacaya, an Active Volcano in Guatemala

A Little Authenticity… Local Life and Transportation on a Guatemalan Chicken Bus

A Little Aroma… Learning the Art of Coffee in Antigua, Guatemala

A Little Explanation… Why I’m a “Don’t Ask” Vegetarian

A Little Fascination… Semana Santa (Holy Week) Rituals & Carpets in Guatemala

A Little Welcome… Expected Warmth While Learning Guatemalan Easter Traditions

A Little Adrift… Dispatch from Guatemala: Prepping for Easter Madness

A Little Adventure… Visit Guatemala’s Stunning Semuc Champey Waterfalls & Caves

A Little Lesson… Eventually, We All Surrender to the Más o Menos

A Little Transportation… You’d Never Do that Back Home!

A Little Adrift… Dispatch from Guatemala: First Impressions & Travel Plans

A Little Wander… Exploring Guatemala’s Tikal Ruins & Wildlife

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Travel Insurance For Canada: What You Need To Know Before You Go

Updated: Apr 30, 2024, 1:13pm

Table of Contents

Do you need travel insurance for canada, what type of travel insurance do you need, what does travel insurance for canada cover, what does travel insurance exclude, best travel insurance for canada, frequently asked questions (faqs).

From hiking trails in Ontario to traversing the slopes of the famous ski resort town of Whistler, there is no shortage of places to visit in Canada.

The vast North American country is a popular destination for travel-loving Aussies. In addition to a growing share of business travelers, more than 350,000 Australian tourists typically visit Canada each year.

While visitor numbers faded during the Covid-19 pandemic, the multitude of Australians heading to the Great White North has picked up in the last two years, particularly to experience the country’s stunning landscape.

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Medical Cover

Including medical treatment, doctors’ visits, prescribed medication, specialist treatment & medical transport costs

$2,500 with option to increase to unlimited

Travel insurance for Canada isn’t compulsory, but it’s highly recommended to cover for any lost or stolen baggage, the possibility of your trip getting cancelled due to an emergency, illness such as Covid-19 or bereavement, and to cover medical expenses.

The Australian Government’s Smartraveller website recommends that travellers purchase travel insurance before any overseas trip.

As in any foreign country, medical care in Canada can be expensive for visitors, with a visit to a doctor potentially setting you back by hundreds of dollars.

The Australian government won’t cover these costs, and there is no reciprocal healthcare agreement between Australia and Canada, so you aren’t covered by Australian Medicare either.

In addition, given the large geography of the country covering a variety of destinations from beaches to mountains to national parks, it is wise to hold insurance cover for a multitude of events and a variety of potential risks including natural disasters, crime or other types of emergencies.

International travel cover for Canada is generally available in the following ways:

Basic travel insurance

This type of policy is broadly focused on cover for unlimited overseas emergency medical expenses, but also includes insurance for luggage, personal liability and other essential benefits. It is usually the cheapest option available and is suitable for those traveling on a budget or for single trips.

Comprehensive travel insurance

This type of insurance typically includes higher amounts of cover for the essentials benefits such as medical expenses, luggage, personal liability, and so on. In addition, it includes cover for travel delays, rental vehicle excess, loss of passports and credit cards, hijacking, disability, accidental death, and more, depending on your policy.

Some insurers offer variations of the comprehensive policy that are suitable for multiple trips within a 12-month period.

Optional add-on policies

Given the growing number of Australians heading to Canada for cruises, road trips or to the ski slopes, some insurers have come up with add-on policies specifically tailored for a variety of adventure sports and transport options available. These include cruise packs, winter sports packs and even higher cover for rental vehicles.

Related: How Much Does Travel Insurance Cost?

Most international travel insurance policies will cover medical and hospital expenses, ambulance transportation, repatriation flights, as well as personal liability if you injure someone, or damage property while you’re in the country.

Policies will also cover, within limits, lost or delayed luggage and possessions, the costs of trip delays, interruptions or cancellations, and lost or stolen travel documents.

Comprehensive policies usually offer a broader cover to include personal accident cover in case of an injury during your trip that leads to permanent disability or death, and insurance excess payment if your rental car meets with an accident.

If you are planning to take advantage of Canada’s vast offering of adventure sports and activities, make sure these are covered by your policy—or that there is an option to add it on.

Most comprehensive policies will include popular sporting and leisure activities such as hiking, surfing, kayaking, and so on. However, more extreme activities such as skydiving, scuba diving, snow skiing or snowboarding will generally require an additional adventure sports cover at extra cost.

Most travel insurance policies to Canada will not provide cover in the following cases:

• Illegal activities: Insurers will reject any claims arising if you knowingly act illegally or dangerously.
• If you are under the influence: Insurance cover is specifically void if you cause a disturbance through drunken behaviour or under the influence of drugs.
• Unattended luggage: Insurers will ignore any claim for loss if your luggage is stolen while it was left unattended in public.
• Pre-existing medical conditions: Insurers can avoid claims for any major medical conditions, if they have not been made aware of these before taking out a policy.
• Extreme sports: International travel insurance policies generally don’t provide automatic coverage for things like extreme sports, snowboarding or surfing. An optional add-on cover is required for these activities.

Most travel insurers in Australia offer insurance policies for travel to Canada. What policy suits you best will depend on your requirements including duration, age, and the type of cover.

It will also be determined by your specific needs, such as whether you are taking part in snow sports or other adventure activities.

An easy way to compare travel insurance policies is to use an online comparison tool, or read through our leading picks of travel insurance policies for Australians . However, always consider whether or not they include the extras you will require for your trip, and any pre-existing medical conditions you would require cover for.

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Do I need travel insurance to travel to Canada?

Travel insurance for Canada isn’t mandatory, but is highly recommended.

The Australian Government urges travellers to purchase travel insurance before any overseas trip, especially for medical cover.

Medical costs can be extremely expensive in a foreign country, especially if you have to visit a doctor, dentist or hospital in an emergency, so travel insurance is very handy.

Does my visa card have travel insurance?

Not every credit card comes with travel insurance. Complimentary travel insurance is typically offered on premium credit or rewards cards that have higher annual fees. In addition, this may not cover all circumstances or emergencies. By comparison, a travel insurance policy will offer more comprehensive coverage that includes emergency medical expenses.

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Prashant Mehra is a freelance journalist based in Sydney. He has more than 20 years of international experience covering financial news, including with Reuters and the Australian Associated Press (AAP). He writes about business, markets, the economy and investing.

The Rick Steves guide to life

Travel mogul. philanthropist. legal weed champion. the real rick steves is so much more complex than who you see on tv..

EDMONDS, Wash. — At first glance, it is hard to tell that Rick Steves is protesting.

In the center of his hometown, America’s favorite travel host is perched on the edge of a fountain roundabout engaging in some friendly civil disobedience. As cars circle the intersection, Steves smiles and waves, looking more like an Elf on a Shelf than an angry picketer. This is his way of reminding people he wishes they’d stop driving here.

Steves’s family moved to Edmonds when he was 12, and the 68-year-old is still happy to call it home. Rather than relocate to his beloved Europe, he dreams of bringing some European sensibilities to the edge of the Puget Sound, less than 20 miles north of Seattle.

When he’s not traveling around Europe, writing about Europe or running his multimillion dollar European tour company, the prolific TV host and author likes to squeeze in some local activism. The roundabout routine is his push to block off Edmonds’s very American Main Street for pedestrians. If you squint at it, you can see what Steves sees: this would be the perfect place for a lively town square.

“I like a lot of things about Europe but I love the urban energy of Europe. I love the piazza,” Steves said in a wistful tone you might recognize from PBS. “We don’t have a piazza.”

Unfortunately for Steves, the voting majority of the city does not love the idea of parking their SUVs farther away to shop. So despite his Boy Scout enthusiasm, the most famous man in Edmonds must keep up the perch-and-wave. This is not his only crusade.

Spend any amount of time with Steves, and you’ll encounter a total ham who loves a zany bit. But if you ask him about serious issues like car-free zones, he’ll bring up other causes that are dear to him: affordable housing, supporting the arts, creating senior centers for the elderly to age with dignity.

He’s anti-Trump and pro-cannabis. He does not care if that is bad for business.

The average Rick Steves fan has likely missed this side of him. On TV they see an always-sunny history lover who makes going abroad feel approachable for the average American. That’s an incomplete picture, like thinking you know Paris because you’ve seen the Eiffel Tower on YouTube.

Meet him in Edmonds, and he’ll fill in the rest.

It may look like a lot of gallivanting, but being Rick Steves takes a lot of work.

He spends three months of the year overseas, researching, writing, recording, refining tours, updating guidebooks. If he’s not planning or producing content, he’s often doing promotional events across the United States. This year Steves is celebrating the 40th edition of his first book, “Europe Through the Back Door.” Over the course of his career, he’s built a privately held company that generates $120 million in revenue a year, published 110 books, filmed 12 seasons of “Rick Steves’ Europe” and produced more than 750 podcast episodes.

“It’s just like coordinating a three-ring circus,” Steves said.

That is: really fun, sort of exhilarating and extremely complicated. To pull this off, Steves does not observe the French 35-hour workweek. He’s a workhorse with a reputation for keeping a frenetic pace year-round.

“It’s more of an American work culture,” Amy Duncan, Steves’s communications director, told me. “He’s an unapologetic capitalist but he is also a socialist.”

He makes enough money to fly first class, but he only sits in economy, claiming he doesn’t mind being cramped.

“It never occurred to me that I’m suffering,” he said. “As long as I’ve got an aisle and a seat that reclines, I’m happy.”

Actually, Steves believes airlines should only have one class. It’s part of his egalitarian worldview. He’s also anti-points and anti-miles, refusing to sign up for airline loyalty programs because he believes they bully us into complicating our lives.

Steves also enforces a self-imposed “ carbon tax ” on his tour company, which takes more than 30,000 people to Europe annually. For every customer, Steves invests $30 to atone for emissions created by their flights between the United States and Europe. Last year, that added up to $1 million donated to a portfolio of organizations, Steves said.

“I don’t need to be a slave to the quarterly profit statement. I want to be around and profitable in 10 years from now in a world that you can travel in that’s stable,” Steves said. “This is a smart investment and it’s an ethical expense that I should pay for.”

Rick Steves will tell you he’s motivated by making money; the more he can earn, the more good he can do with it.

“Vicarious consumption, that’s one of my things,” Steves said.

After amassing a windfall from the 2001 George W. Bush tax cuts for high earners, Rick Steves donated $1 million to support the local symphony and performing arts center. In 2005, he used retirement savings to buy a 24-unit apartment complex for the local YWCA’s use as transitional housing for women and children. He figured he’d eventually sell the complex and live on the earnings. About a decade later, he changed his mind and donated the complex valued at $4 million.

He also gave more than $4 million to help build the Edmonds Waterfront Center, a vibrant gathering place for seniors where his daughter had her wedding in 2021. And he gave another $2 million for a similar center in the nearby city of Lynnwood, which broke ground in mid-April .

“Rick puts his money where his mouth is,” said Nancy Leson, a former Seattle Times food critic who used to let Steves’s daughter babysit her son. She’s appreciated his regular presence in the community, like hosting events for local politics at his house and shopping at the farmers market .

“He changed travel,” local resident Karen Howe said on her way into the Waterfront Center with a friend. She’s used Steves’s guidebooks for years. “He’s introduced us to places that most of us would never think of going.”

Rick Steves hasn’t won his piazza battle, but he has brought European touches to Edmonds. At the Rick Steves’ Europe headquarters, there’s an E.U. flag hanging from the mocha brick facade. And gargoyles that drain rainwater, just like at the Notre Dame cathedral.

“Gargoyles scare away evil spirits,” Steves points out, unable to suppress his inner tour guide.

Here Steves employs more than 100 people: editors, audio producers, tour specialists and cartographers such as Dave Hoerlein, his first employee. That’s excluding the fleet of guides and drivers he contracts across the pond to shepherd tour customers.

Inside, he bounds through a maze of cubicles, his neck craned forward, always at an eager pace. His 6-foot frame appears leaner than previous seasons of his life, but his signature look is familiar. No, not khakis and a button-down. That’s vintage Rick. These days, he wears dark jeans and a button-down, plus a thin scarf and leather sneakers.

During a day of meetings, Steves’s fjord-blue eyes lit up at the minutia of the business. He went over new maps with Hoerlein. He and longtime co-author Cameron Hewitt addressed problems like finding a “less glitzy” stop on the Amalfi Coast that’s not Sorrento. They discussed whether a place is worth visiting after it’s gotten too popular, and Steves indulged in some gallows humor.

“It’s going to be like holding the corpse of a loved one who just died,” he said.

His critics argue the “Rick Steves Effect” can turn a charming village, restaurant or museum into a tourist magnet. Matthew Kepnes, the travel writer behind the blog Nomadic Matt , points to the Swiss town Zermatt, which he says Steves put on the map, and has since dealt with overtourism . You’re bound to bump into groups with Rick Steves guidebooks in Italy’s increasingly crowded Cinque Terre.

Whether Steves is actually to blame for changing a place is up for debate. There are plenty of destinations he’s covered that haven’t been inundated with swarms of Americans (see also: Gdańsk).

Steves says he assesses whether a place wants tourism, if it can handle it gracefully. If they don’t or can’t, he may mention it but not promote it.

He has faith — maybe too much — that his clients share his values.

“Does [my work] change the personality of a town? It can. Am I a dramatic impact on Europe? No,” he said.

“There’s a handful of places I really promote aggressively that I’ve had a serious impact on, but otherwise ... my travelers are the kind of people that take only pictures and leave only footprints ... they’re good travelers.”

You don’t have to spend much time in Edmonds to see why Rick Steves never considered leaving.

The city — population roughly 42,000 — sits on a majestic inlet. You can get to a major international airport in about an hour. The community is so courteous, it has an “umbrella share” program in case people forget their own on a rainy day. As Steves walks around town, he greets people by name. He lives within walking distance to both his favorite diner and a pétanque court, the French answer to Italian bocce. He plays bongos at his church on Sundays.

In 1967, Richard “Dick” Steves moved the family here because he was worried about Rick Junior.

“I was hanging out with dangerous kids and going down the wrong trail,” Steves said. Seriously.

His dad, an Army veteran, got by in the upscale suburb as a piano technician and importer. When Steves was 14, his parents dragged him on a work trip to Europe to visit piano factories; it was a radical experience that sparked his lifelong passion for travel.

Back in Edmonds, Steves started teaching piano, eventually turning his savings into trips abroad of his own — not only to Europe, but Turkey, Nepal, Afghanistan. He went to college nearby, earning degrees in European history and business from the University of Washington, where he played in the Husky Marching Band.

After graduation, Steves figured he could keep up his routine: give piano lessons during the school year, then travel during the summer. He started teaching travel classes in the same recital hall where his piano students performed. This was back when there was no internet and few guidebooks to consult for trip planning.

The classes were a hit. At 25, Steves turned his lecture materials into a 180-page book, and self-published “Europe Through the Back Door,” in 1980.

Four years later, he hosted his first European minibus tour group, serving as both bus driver and guide.

His businesses have evolved — his bus tours now take up to 28 travelers, a number Steves says is a sweet spot between making the tour more affordable yet enjoyable for customers and profitable for the company. But his mission has remained the same: to be the best resource for European travel and help Americans travel better.

“I just focus on that and I love it,” he said. “It takes my life out of balance — which is not good — but it lets me do a lot of stuff that I believe in and that’s good.”

Steves has been open about the challenges of being a travel mogul. As he built his empire, he was also raising a family. Being “married” to both took a toll. In 2010, Steves and his wife, Anne, divorced after 25 years of marriage.

Up the hill from his junior high, Rick Steves’s modest beige home offers a window into his many lives. There are family photos on the walls, from older relatives to his baby grandson, Atlas. He hosts political fundraisers on the sprawling deck. A painting of Kerala, India, nods to one of his favorite countries (people forget Steves did four editions of “Asia Through the Back Door”).

Next to his grand piano, there’s a stuffed creature that Steves calls his “Silver Fox” baring its teeth and wearing novelty sunglasses with cannabis leaves on the lenses — a nod to two of his interests: taxidermy and marijuana activism.

“It’s the civil liberties … it’s the racism … everything about it is wrong,” he said of keeping weed illegal.

As for the toothy fox, Steves doesn’t do typical souvenirs anymore, but he makes an exception for stuffed animals.

“The wooden shoes and the pewter Viking ships are so obvious,” he said. “I like to do something a little more organic and a little more striking and it takes me back there — I like it.”

He’s a very good piano player. He can also play the sousaphone and the trumpet — which he did regularly during the pandemic, performing taps for his neighbors at sunset.

Covid-19 was a nightmare for the travel business, but a miracle for Rick Steves’s love life.

After running in the same social circles for years, he and Shelley Bryan Wee, a prominent local bishop, started dating at the end of 2019. They had a lot in common. Both are progressive Lutherans. Both are divorced with adult children. But neither worked a typical 9-to-5, and one of them spent three months of the year in Europe.

Then lockdown happened. Steves, who couldn’t remember if he’d ever had dinner in the same place 10 nights in a row, spent 100 nights at the same table with Wee. It solidified their relationship.

“Shelley is a constant,” Steves said. He still struggles with the balancing act between work and love.

When the stars align and they’re both in Edmonds, Wee cooks, and Steves plays sous chef. They walk Jackson, Wee’s labradoodle, creating their own version of the passeggiata, Italy’s traditional evening stroll. They play table tennis before dinner.

When the world reopened, they started traveling together. They’ve made time for a few big vacations: a trip to Morocco, where they were caught in a windstorm that blew the windows out of their car; a luxury barge cruise through Burgundy, France, “that was embarrassingly expensive,” Steves confessed, followed by a week hiking in the Swiss Alps; and another hiking trip between remote lodges on Mont Blanc.

Before their first trip, Steves edited the contents of Wee’s suitcase, because packing light is part of his philosophy.

“What do you say?” she asked. “You’re talking to Rick Steves.”

Editing by Gabe Hiatt. Additional editing by Amanda Finnegan. Design editing by Christine Ashack. Photo editing by Lauren Bulbin. Videos by Monica Rodman. Senior video producer: Nicki DeMarco. Design by Katty Huertas. Copy editing by Jamie Zega.

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• Key Street: Michigan Ave. Leads to 7 Key Hotels in Chicago

A brief guide to all the MICHELIN Key hotels in Chicago.

Travel Hotels Chicago MICHELIN Keys

On April 24, 2024, the MICHELIN Guide announced its very first Key hotels in the United States — a brand new distinction recognizing the most outstanding hotels in the country. We're thrilled to report that in Chicago, eight hotels earned at least One Key. Of those, half make their home in the kinds of historic buildings that give this city its well-earned reputation as one of the most architecturally distinguished cities in the country. Follow Michigan Avenue north from the heart of the Loop to the Gold Coast and you’ll pass within two blocks of all but one of them. The Chicago Athletic Association sits within a Venetian Gothic landmark. The Gwen makes its home in a storied 1929 Art Deco skyscraper. The Pendry sets up shop in the masterpiece that is the 1929 Art Deco Carbide & Carbon Building. And the lower floors of the Viceroy make use of the meticulously-preserved, 1920s-vintage Cedar Hotel. There are Key hotels too in newer builds, among them the Peninsula (with uniformed bellboys and staffers who seem to know the name of each individual guest) and the Waldorf Astoria , its lobby a marble marvel. Below, explore the map and scroll down for more about each of the MICHELIN Guide’s eight hotels in Chicago.

The Eight KEY Hotels in Chicago:

Chicago Athletic Association — One Key

Pendry Chicago — Two Keys

The Langham Chicago — Two Keys

The Gwen — One Key

The Peninsula Chicago — Two Keys

Waldorf Astoria Chicago — One Key

Viceroy Chicago — One Key

Nobu Hotel Chicago — One Key

Top image: Pendry Chicago

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Flocking To

A Guide to Antwerp, a City of Avant-Garde Fashion and Art Nouveau Architecture

Five locals — including three of Belgium’s most influential designers — share their favorite stores, museums, restaurants and more.

By Gisela Williams

T’s monthly travel series, Flocking To , highlights places you might already have on your wish list, sharing tips from frequent visitors and locals alike. Sign up here to find us in your inbox once a month, and to receive our weekly T List newsletter. Have a question? You can always reach us at [email protected] .

In the 16th century, Antwerp, Belgium, with its busy docks along the river Scheldt, was a booming center of trade and one of Europe’s most influential cities, attracting artists, intellectuals and entrepreneurs. In 1576, Christophe Plantin ran a prestigious printing business (one of the continent’s largest) in the center of the city, a half-mile from where, a few decades later, the painter Peter Paul Rubens would build his own studio and semicircular sculpture hall, modeled after the Pantheon. Over the years, while other long-established port cities like Venice and Barcelona evolved into throbbing tourist centers, Belgium’s second city largely kept far away from the spotlight, yet it’s always quietly maintained a reputation as a place for innovation and creative expression. In the 1980s, it became an important fashion hub with the emergence of the Antwerp Six: a group of young designers, including Ann Demeulemeester, who had been educated at the city’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts.

Even now, despite its relatively small size (the population is about 545,000), Antwerp is still home to a cluster of people at the top of their creative fields, including the visual artist Luc Tuymans and Pieter Mulier, the creative director of the fashion brand Alaïa. “I can see the port from one side of my apartment and Antwerp’s historic center from the other side,” says Mulier. “Those views allow me to understand the richness of this city, not just financially but culturally.” Lately, there has been a renewed sense of dynamism in Antwerp, with a slate of recently opened restaurants, bars and hotels, including Botanic Sanctuary Antwerp, a luxury resort housed in a converted monastery, as well as ambitious new architectural projects underway in the southern part of the city led by Tokyo’s Shigeru Ban and others. The art scene is also getting a boost now that KMSKA, the Royal Museum of Fine Arts Antwerp, has reopened after its decade-long renovation. Here, Mulier and four other notable locals share some of their favorite spots in the city, from beloved relics to new diversions.

The Insiders

The Costa Rican Cuban painter Ileana Moro lived in New York City, Los Angeles and Mexico City before moving to Antwerp in 2022.

The fashion designer Pieter Mulier , the creative director of Alaïa, divides his time between Antwerp and Paris.

Karen Shu , the chef and owner of the plant-based restaurant And/Or and a former chef de cuisine at Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s ABC Kitchen in New York, moved to Antwerp in 2021.

The architect and designer Vincent Van Duysen , who founded his firm in Antwerp in 1989, has designed a number of buildings and interiors in the city, including those of the hotel August in 2019.

The interior designer, gallerist and antiques dealer Axel Vervoordt is known for prominent design projects throughout his hometown, as well as international ones.

Illustrations by Richard Pedaline

“For a small city like Antwerp to have something as high-end as the Botanic Sanctuary hotel is quite astonishing. The level of everything here, from the restaurants to the service to the rooms, is unbelievable. They took a very long time to do it and had quite an eye for detail. That’s very Flemish. We take a lot of time for things.” (Rooms from about $590 a night.) — Pieter Mulier

“ August was once a military hospital and Augustinian cloister. The high ceilings and old convent windows have so much charm, and I love the way the garden is set away from the street so it feels completely private. It’s perfect for an aperitif or drinks after dinner.” (Rooms from about $190 a night.) — Karen Shu

“ Hotel Julien is a very welcoming and charming townhouse located in the city center. The aesthetics belong to the culture of Antwerp: minimal, elegant and historic, but also modern.” (Rooms from about $225 a night.) — Vincent Van Duysen

Eat and Drink

“ Osaka is a special place — the people, the atmosphere and the design. Inside the surfaces are all stainless steel, very futuristic. The natural-wine list is exceptional, and the oysters are really good. In the summer, people sit outside on the terrace.” — Ileana Moro

“ Tazu is my favorite cocktail bar. It’s gorgeous, and Julian Youssef, the head bartender, is a master cocktail curator and can make you a drink depending on your mood.” — K.S.

“ Restaurant Veranda is very Antwerp, but it also has a bit of a creative Brooklyn feeling. The interiors are simple and understated, and the chef Davy Schellemans makes great seasonal food with the best ingredients. ’t Fornuis is a rustic Flemish place with heavy wood interiors. It’s [an aesthetic] I wouldn’t normally connect with, but the food is incredible. It’s Belgian cuisine with a slightly Mediterranean touch. Sir Anthony Van Dijck is in the heart of the oldest part of the city, where Axel Vervoordt started his career. You have to ring a bell and someone opens the door for you. And then you enter this beautiful place designed by Axel.” — V.V.D.

“ Houben is one of the most iconic multibrand stores in Antwerp. The couple who own it have a very good eye, and the shop has been going since the ’80s, when they were selling Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto. I still visit them regularly.” — P.M.

“Antwerp is very much about fashion, from Ann Demeulemeester to Dries Van Noten, but my favorite exclusive place to window shop is Verso . It’s so chic, with a mix of designers, from Dior to Vince.” — K.S. “ Het Modepaleis is the flagship store of Dries Van Noten, one of my favorite Antwerp designers, who’s also a close friend. His collections are inspired by artworks, the fabrics are very original and distinguished (both for men and women).” — Axel Vervoordt

“I’m obsessed with bed linen. Marie-Marie sells luxurious linens, and there’s no end to the options. It has its own line, which is of an unbelievable quality.” — P.M.

“ Graanmarkt 13 [designed by Van Duysen] is a cabinet of wonders. It’s a place to discover things. Everything that the co-founders Ilse Cornelissens and Tim Van Geloven choose, whether accessories or objects or clothing, is one of a kind.” — V.V.D.

“The art park at the Middelheim Museum is one of the most beautiful sculpture parks that I’ve ever seen. It has an excellent, diverse collection — you can find everything from a Rodin sculpture to an Ai Weiwei, and there’s a nice cafe. Located in the harbor neighborhood Het Eilandje, CASSTL functions as a hybrid of an artist-run space and a gallery. It was founded by Luc Tuymans and the artist duo Carla Arocha and Stéphane Schraenen. They promote noncommercial projects, including performances and installations.” — I.M.

“The Kanaal project — an industrial complex with residences, offices and art spaces [including the Axel Vervoordt Gallery] outside Antwerp — was imagined and developed by Axel and his family; you just get absorbed by their personal taste. It’s a complete universe. You go from one space, such as the Anish Kapoor installation, to another, such as a vast gallery of historic sculptures, and all throughout you travel from dark to light. The whole complex plays with the light of Belgium. The Museum Plantin-Moretus is the house and workshop of the 16th-century printer Christophe Plantin. There’s a beautiful library there.” — P.M.

“If you appreciate architecture and want to discover Antwerp from another era, you have to walk through the Zurenborg neighborhood . I love the Art Nouveau buildings.” — K.S.

“Peter Paul Rubens contributed to the decoration at St. Charles Borromeo Church . It’s from the early 1600s, and the interiors are exquisite. Sometimes I go there by myself. It’s walking distance from the city center. You follow small, narrow streets and then suddenly it opens up to a square, one of my favorites in the city. Everything about it is very poetic. KMSKA , or the Royal Museum of Fine Arts Antwerp , has an incredible collection of Belgian painters and a very nice grand cafe. Also, I love the water sculpture at the front of the museum that was created by the artist Cristina Iglesias. The bottom of it is a bas-relief of a bed of leaves in cement, and the water goes in and out like a tide.” — V.V.D.

These interviews have been edited and condensed.

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