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Trek Session 9 X01 - Hardtail Mountainbike - 2023

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Fahrrad Angebote

10 online verfügbare Angebote und 4 lokal verfügbare Angebote für Trek Session 9 X01 - Hardtail Mountainbike - 2023 ab 5.999,25 €

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Technische daten, bremsanlage.

Das neue Fahrwerkslayout mit hohem Dreh- und Umlenkpunkt verbessert die Traktion, unterstützt höhere Geschwindigkeiten und reduziert den Pedalrückschlag für mehr Stabilität.. Die Eliminierung des Pedalrückschlags erhöht die Stabilität und Kontrollbarkeit des Bikes auf brutalen Abfahrten und vor allem beim Landen von Jumps und Drops.. Der hohe Drehpunkt sorgt für einen optimierten Lauf des Hinterrads, damit du mit mehr Speed unterwegs bist und Hindernisse effizienter meisterst.. Einfache Verstellung der Progression an der unteren Dämpferaufnahme – 20 % für geschmeidige Runs im Park, 25 % für hohe Renneffizienz.

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Fahrrad Beratung und Fahrrad Ratgeber

Sonstiges vom trek session 9 x01, schaltwerk vom trek session 9 x01, laufrad vom trek session 9 x01, weitere varianten.

• Session 9 X01 Rahmengröße R1
• Session 9 X01 Rahmengröße R2
• Session 9 X01 Rahmengröße R3

Fragen und Antworten zum Trek Session 9 X01, Modelljahr 2023

Welche preisempfehlung hat der hersteller trek angegeben.

Die UVP für das Angebot vom Session 9 X01 beträgt 7.499,00 €.

Wie schwer ist das Session 9 X01 von Trek?

Das Gewicht wird vom Hersteller Trek mit 17,7 kg angegeben.

Hat das Session 9 X01 von Trek eine Rücktrittbremse?

Nein, es ist eine hydraulische Scheibenbremse verbaut.

Gibt es das Trek, Session 9 X01 aktuell günstiger?

Die Fahrradsuchmaschine & Preisvergleich marktplatz.bike findet aktuell 14 Angebote für das Session 9 X01, 2023.

Wie groß sind die Laufräder vom Trek, Session 9 X01?

Beim Session 9 X01 aus dem Jahr 2023 wurden Laufräder in der Größe 29 Zoll verbaut.

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Trek Trek 2023 Trek Händler Fahrräder MTB alle Angebote reduziert

Bike-ID: 3518405920

Wir kümmern uns um dich!

Unser Ziel ist es, Dir den besten Service zu bieten, egal ob Online oder in einem unserer Stores. Wir sind immer für Dich da und versuchen dir zu helfen. Das ist der "Trek-way"

Kostenloser Versand und Fachgerechte Montage

Alle online bestellten Fahrräder werden kostenlos an einen Trek-Händler in deiner Nähe geliefert und dort fachgerecht montiert. Einige Trek-Händler liefern Dir dein neues Rad sogar bis vor die Haustür!

30 Tage Unconditional Guarantee

Wenn Du aus irgendeinem Grund nicht zu 100% zufrieden mit deinem auf trekbikes.com gekauften Produkt bist, kannst du es innerhalb von 30 Tagen gegen Erstattung oder Umtausch zurückschicken - ohne, dass wir Fragen stellen. Bitte beachte das bei Fahrrädern gesonderte Rückgabebedingungen bestehen.

A damn fast bike

Session allows you to hit sections at ridiculous speeds and commitment levels. It's been nothing but grin-inducing to get to know the Session so far.

„Schnellstes Worldcup-Downhillbike des Jahres 2021“

„Mit insgesamt 13 Siegen in Worldcup-Rennen und bei den Weltmeisterschaften ist das Session den anderen Siegerbikes dieser Saison um Längen voraus.“

For riders who charge full speed

A fast, versatile, confidence inspiring downhill bike that will let you push harder and ride faster than you thought you could.

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Social connect, downhill , test, test: trek – „session 9.9“.

Bericht erschien exklusiv in der Gravity Mountainbike Magazine Ausgabe #034 [ September & Oktober 2016]

Auf den ersten Blick sieht das „Session“ aus wie immer, was ja nichts Schlechtes bedeutet. Auch wenn es eine subjektive Beurteilung ist: Uns hat der Rahmen optisch sehr gut gefallen. Der Vollcarbon-Rahmen ist schön geschwungen und sauber im Ferrari-Rot lackiert. Damit der aal-glatte Rahmen lange so schön bleibt, wurden an den wichtigen Stellen Rahmenprotektoren angebracht – wie schon bei den „Session“-Modellen zuvor. Auch die integrierten Gabelanschläge mit Eingang für die innenverlegten Züge sind ein tolles Detail. Des Weiteren lässt Trek die Möglichkeit, die Zügen außen am Rahmen entlang zu verlegen. Um aber nicht zu sehr in das cleane Erscheinungsbild einzugreifen, sind die äußeren Aufnahmen lediglich kleine Schlitze im Rahmen, durch die ein Kabelbinder gefädelt wird. Die Kettenstreben sind am aktuellen „Session“ jetzt auch aus Carbon und der Rahmen wird nochmal um circa 100 Gramm leichter. Über den „Mino Link“ wird der Lenkwinkel und die Tretlagerhöhe abgeflacht – das funktioniert simpel über eine Gewindemutter.

Trek setzt auf den neuen Fox „DH X2“-Dämpfer – leider ist von Haus aus die Feder viel zu weich. Bei unserem Testrad in „L“ war eine 450er Feder verbaut, selbst für Fahrer unter 70 Kilo sollte die Feder zu weich sein. Ebenfalls etwas unterproportioniert ist der Bontrager Carbon-Lenker,  der mit leider nur 750 Millimeter für einen Downhill-Lenker sehr schmal ausfällt. Das kostet Kontrolle über das Bike. Genug gemeckert. Die „Saint“-Ausstattung besticht durch die kräftige Bremsanlage, die soliden Kurbeln und die knackige 10-fach Schaltung. Der Fox-Dämpfer funktioniert im Übrigen tadellos im „Session“-Hinterbau. Die Fox „40 Float“ ist eine absolute Spitzengabel. Der beliebte DT Swiss Laufradsatz schlägt sich gut, wie erwartet. Die restlichen Anbauteile kommen von der Hausmarke Bontrager.

Der mit 15,65 Kilo äußerst leichte Worldcup-Bolide bietet in Sachen Ausstattung sogar noch Potential leichter zu werden. Das ist aber nicht unbedingt nötig, denn das „Session“ manövriert sich mit einer herrlichen Leichtigkeit über die Trails, spritzig und agil bei Kurvenfahrten und lebendig bei Sprungeinlagen. Im „Full Floater“-Hinterbausystem liegt der Dämpfer zwischen zwei beweglichen Aufnahmen, dadurch fühlt sich das Bike nach mehr Federweg an. Insgesamt ist das „Session“ aber eher sportlich-straff als ein Downhill-Sofa, aber deshalb lässt sich das Bike auch sehr gut im Bikepark fahren und lädt zu Spielereien und Sprüngen ein. Leider ist das High-End-Gerät aus Voll-Carbon mit knapp 10.000 arg teuer, sogar das Rahmenkit mit Fox-Dämpfer kostet schon 6000 Euro.

Fazit: Das „Session“ ist nach wie vor ein sehr gelungener Downhiller, der uns optisch auch voll zusagt. Diese superleichte Rennmaschine hat keine wirklichen Schwächen, wenn man die Lenkerbreite bei Seite lässt. Leider ist das Bike sehr teuer und wird deshalb für viele nur ein Traum bleiben.

Pro: Gewicht, Hinterbausystem, Optik, Details

Contra: Lenkerbreite, sehr teuer, Federhärte

Unverbindliche Preisempfehlung: 9.999,- € | Größen: S, M, L, XL | Gewicht: 15,65 kg | www.trekbikes.com

Acid Perm Vs. Alkaline Perm: What Are the Differences?

By Fernando Hardin • Updated on November 16, 2023

Expertise: Hair Style Analysis, Hair Color, Hair Care

Fernando is a hairstylist and writer who loves to talk about celebrity hairstyles. He uses his years of experience to write about the latest hair trends in the celebrity world.

Getting a perm is one of the best ways to express your personality. However, it’s necessary to have a good understanding of the acid perm vs. alkaline perm comparison before you start, as choosing the wrong method could damage your hair beyond repair!

Today, we’ll discuss which types of hair are suitable for acid and alkaline perming and go over how each method works, along with the differences between them. 

Let’s jump right into it. 

How Do Perms Work?

A perm, or permanent wave, is a chemical hair treatment that alters your hair’s natural texture to create waves or curls.

Depending on the type of perm the process involves the use of an acid solution or alkaline solution to chemically change the hair’s structure.

Acid perms use a combination of chemicals and heat to break the disulfide bonds in keratin. This is known as hot perming since it’ll only work when you heat the hair with a blow dryer.

The main component in acid perm lotion is glyceryl mono-thioglycolate. It has a pH of 5 to 6, which is around the same pH as our hair. This makes acid perming more gentle than alkaline perming!

Acid perms create softer curls than alkaline perms. It’s best for those who want to have a more natural wavy look.

Yet, there’s a downside to acid perming. It’s slow-acting, and one session could last up to 5 hours! Moreover, you need frequent touch-ups to maintain your hair.

Acid perms usually hold for only 3-4 months.

Who Should Get an Acid Perm?

Because it’s weaker, acid perms are more suitable for people with fine to medium hair. If you have a sensitive scalp, you should go for an acid perm.

Those with dry, damaged hair may also prefer acid perms such as digital perm .

Acid Perm Pros and Cons

• It’s ammonia-free, so it doesn’t have an unpleasant smell.
• Cases of allergic reactions to acid perm lotion are rare but can happen with prolonged exposure. However, if you have an allergic reaction, it won’t be intense.
• Acid perms are generally safe for use.
• This type of perm is pricier. It costs up to $250 per session.
• Interestingly, acid perm isn’t recommended for people with colored hair as it can lighten dyes!

Alkaline Perms

Alkaline perms, or cold perms, are more popular than acid perms. This is because they’re faster and more convenient to use.

An alkaline perm lotion uses a base, like ammonium thioglycolate, to curl your hair. It has a PH of 9.5, which makes it highly potent and potentially damaging.

This type of perm breaks the outer layers of your hair down and opens the cuticles. It results in your hair absorbing the chemicals within 20 minutes of application.

After treatment with alkaline perm lotion, you have to apply a neutralizer like hydrogen peroxide. This will lower the pH of your hair and put it back to its original state.

Who Should Get an Alkaline Perm?

If you want to have defined curls, you should go for traditional alkaline perming.

Alkaline perms are best for people with thick, coarse, and resistant hair. Those with virgin hair will have better results using this type of perm because it’ll have a stronger hold.

It’s also suitable for Asian hair.

Pros and Cons of an Alkaline Perm

• Alkaline perms are cheaper than acid perms. It costs around $150 per session.
• Alkaline perms last longer than acid perms. You can maintain your curls for up to six months.
• Unfortunately, alkaline perms have a skunk-like odor because of the ammonia it contains.
• You can’t get a subtle curl using this type of perm.

Acid-Balanced Perms

The acid-balanced perm is a new type of perm worth mentioning.

It’s in the same category as an acid perm. The difference is its glyceryl mono-thioglycolate content has a pH of 7.8 to 8.2. This puts it more in the neutral zone!

Acid-balanced perming combines qualities from acid and alkaline types.

It doesn’t need heat treatment, yet it can create firmer waves. Like alkaline perming, you also need to use a neutralizer.

Who Should Get an Acid-Balanced Perm?

If you have porous and damaged hair but you want to have strong curls, then an acid-balanced perm may be the best option!

Acid Perm Vs. Alkaline Perm

So based on the application process, results, and characteristics, these are the differences between acid perm and alkaline perm:

1. pH Level

• Acid Perm: Lower pH (typically 4.5 to 7.0)
• Alkaline Perm: Higher pH (typically 8.0 to 9.5)

2. Hair Type Suitability

• Acid Perm: Suitable for delicate or damaged hair
• Alkaline Perm: Suitable for normal or resistant hair
• Acid Perm: Produces softer, more natural-looking curls or waves
• Alkaline Perm: Produces firmer, more defined curls

4. Processing Time

• Acid Perm: Requires a longer processing time
• Alkaline Perm: Has a shorter processing time
• Acid Perm: Milder odor
• Alkaline Perm: May have a stronger, more pungent odor

6. Strength

• Acid Perm: Gentler on the hair
• Alkaline Perm: Stronger and more effective

7. Curl Type

• Acid Perm: Creates subtle and long-lasting curls
• Alkaline Perm: Creates dramatic and defined curls

So, based on these differences, we can come to the following conclusions:

• Acid perms are best for fine or fragile hair, alkaline perms are ideal for thick or coarse hair.
• For soft, natural-looking waves, opt for an acid perm. If you crave defined, bouncy curls, choose alkaline perm.
• If you have porous and damaged hair but you want to have strong curls, then go for an acid-balanced perm.

Trending Topics

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Everything You Need to Know About Modern Hair Perms

These are NOTHING like the perms of the '80s.

We've been independently researching and testing products for over 120 years. If you buy through our links, we may earn a commission. Learn more about our review process.

Perms work by using chemicals to change hair texture, either creating waves or curls. Traditionally, a stylist will wrap hair in rods before putting perm lotion on to set the curl. After letting the lotion sit, stylists rinse it out, dry hair as much as possible, and use a neutralizer to halt the perming process.

But new formulas and techniques are giving perms a revival: Instead of using rods to curl your locks, stylists might use different materials to help you catch the perfect wave. Celebrity hairstylist Anthony Cole gave us the run-down on everything there is to know about modern-day perms, from what to expect before you go to caring for your curls after your appointment.

What's different about modern perms?

It’s all in the technique. Traditionally, stylists use plastic perm rods all over a client’s head, but “when I’m doing perms today, instead of using a traditional perm rod, sometimes I use fabric, or you can do a finger wave, or rollers,” says Cole.

These new techniques create different types of curls, from spiral coils to wavy hair. Cole says that women today typically get perms to enhance their natural texture, whether that’s an S-pattern curl (think: taking your hair out of a braid) or an undone wave.

Do modern perms cause hair damage?

There’s a preconception that perms will leave you with over-processed, damage-ridden tresses , but if it’s done correctly, a perm should leave you unscathed. “Doing your own perm could definitely cause damage,” Cole says, but “if you’re getting it done professionally, there should be no damage.”

That’s not to say that all perms are the same. Everyone can get a perm, but if you have highlights or lightened hair, perms can get trickier. “If I use a perm for color-treated hair on virgin hair, it probably wouldn’t work,” Cole says. “There are perms now that are structured so they can do both.”

How long does a perm last?

First and foremost, when you decide to get a perm, you should prepare to be at the salon for a t least two and a half hours . After you get a perm, how long it lasts depends mainly on how long your hair is. For short, often-cut hair, “they can last at least three to four months,” says Cole. “I have clients with really long hair, and when their roots grow in, they like it even better. The roots drop on the head and then they just have the wave at the ends. That can last from six months to eight months.”

How should you style and care for a perm?

The best way for your new curls to shine is to let your hair air-dry most of the way, then use a diffuser , according to Cole. If you really want to enhance your waves, you can use a curling wand, too.

What about heat styling? You definitely can, but you need to be careful. If you want to use a flat iron , make sure to keep the heat lower, around 300ºF. If a flat iron is too hot, you could risk frying your perm. “If you’re using it at 450º, you’re blasting all of the hydration out of the hair,” says Cole. “It shocks the hair and you can lose the perm from heat damage.”

There are also some tricks that can make your perm look as good as possible for as long as possible. Now that your hair is curly, you need to start using products that are formulated specifically for curly or wavy hair . Cole suggests products that promote flexibility, hydration, and elasticity.

Shop curly hair products

Bumble and bumble Curl Pre-Style/Re-Style Primer

Sebastian Curl Shampoo

Diane Detangler comb

MOROCCANOIL Moroccanoil Treatment, 3.4 Fl. Oz.

@media(max-width: 64rem){.css-o9j0dn:before{margin-bottom:0.5rem;margin-right:0.625rem;color:#ffffff;width:1.25rem;bottom:-0.2rem;height:1.25rem;content:'_';display:inline-block;position:relative;line-height:1;background-repeat:no-repeat;}.loaded .css-o9j0dn:before{background-image:url(/_assets/design-tokens/goodhousekeeping/static/images/Clover.5c7a1a0.svg);}}@media(min-width: 48rem){.loaded .css-o9j0dn:before{background-image:url(/_assets/design-tokens/goodhousekeeping/static/images/Clover.5c7a1a0.svg);}} Hair Ideas for 2024

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• Walls and Roofs
• Air and vapour barriers

Weather barriers (or more accurately water-resistive barriers) keep bulk water away from vulnerable building components and allow walls to dry at the same time.

• Comment (20)

A technical guide to understanding the role weather barriers and rainscreens play in a wall, choosing the right products and installation tips for optimum performance.

They're officially known as water-resistive barriers or WRBs, sometimes weather-resistive barriers, but in practical terms they are more commonly called housewraps and weather barriers. With so many options I plan to randomly switch between terms just to alleviate the monotony and keep us all entertained. 

A few other linguistic options to mention - cladding is the same as siding, furring strips are the same as strapping. Those and your weather barrier all installed properly are what defines a ventilated rainscreen.

There are many different potential wall assemblies, and many products with different characteristics that can be used in different cases. For the sake of simplicity and not getting off on a bunch of tangents, in this article we will stick with the bread and butter wall assembly we all know - a stud wall with exterior sheathing, housewrap, strapping and siding. Other options for wall assemblies can be found in our building guide .

Just like a canvas or nylon tent, water will drain down a water-resistive barrier but standing water would drain through them, albeit slowly. Since moisture can evaporate through WRBs, any humidity that accumulates in a wall assembly has a chance to escape.

There in a nutshell is the purpose of a weather barrier - to provide a drainage plane that protects sensitive materials from direct exposure to precipitation at the same time that it allows walls to dry out.

It's worth a mention at this point that weather barriers are often intended to act as an air barrier as well, but the most common installation techniques (staples, nails and hastily installed tape) mean it is a rare case when they actually do a good job at air sealing. Manufacturers will rightly claim their products are a suitable choice for an air barrier, and they most certainly are. The failure of weather barriers to perform well in that capacity lies entirely with how they are installed. 

Randomly peppering your housewrap or home wrap with staples creates a lot of little holes where air can enter and escape. Also, when exposed to the extreme temperature shifts between summer and winter and the endless movement of a loose weather barrier due to wind and air pressure differences, the solvent-based tapes we most often use may become brittle over time and no longer adhere. 

You'll have better luck using weather barriers as air barriers if you place staples where they will be covered by strapping, or put tape over them. Don't over-staple it for no reason, staples only have to hold it up until the strapping is on. And if you can wait for a calm day with no wind you will really only need to staple it at the top (where it will be overlapped anyway) and let it hang. Better still would be forgoing staples altogether and using nails with plastic washers.

Be meticulous when taping joints and try to use brands of tape that are more suitable for extreme temperature changes. Siga , Delta Multi-Band and Air Stop are three examples of tapes with much better adhesion.

Peel-and-stick membranes:

An alternative to the commonly used non-adhesive housewraps are the 'peel-and-stick' membranes, and if you'd like a fancier word for them, go with this - self-adhering air and water-resistive barriers.

They're still vapour permeable, but membranes that stick to the sheathing are much less susceptible to damage caused by wind pressure.

Since a conventional housewrap is usually held on by staples, the back and forth ballooning of those loose weather barriers can over time enlarge staple and nail holes and reduce their ability to prevent air leakage. With no stapling needed and being fully adhered to the sheathing, wind and air pressure isn't a concern for air barrier durability with peel-and-stick membranes.

Depending on the substrate you're sticking the membrane to, manufacturers may recommend they be installed by first applying a primer to the surface for better and longer lasting adhesion. Including a primer in the mix will also affect the vapour permeability of your wall exterior; more on that in a moment.

Self-adhering membranes are not all the same:

Like so many other building products, it is important that you understand the properties of different membranes before choosing one, don't just pick one randomly off the shelf based on price or brand recognition. Some are vapour permeable and will allow walls to dry, some will not. They both have suitable applications but shouldn't be randomly interchanged.  

For the standard wall assembly we are talking about here, make sure that whatever membrane you choose as your weather barrier is vapour permeable, and the more permeable the better. Look for the vapour permeance rating (how much moisture can pass though it); it should be on the product itself but also on the technical data sheets of company websites.

1 Perm and 60 Ng* (U.S. and Canadian ratings respectively) are the benchmark permeability rates for what defines a type II residential vapour barrier. Products rated below those numbers are vapour barriers, those rated between 1 and 10 perms are considered vapour retarders. The higher the perm rating or Ng, the quicker moisture can evaporate.

*Ng stands for Nanograms, or billionths of a gram of water. That 60 Ng number refers to the amount of water that will pass through a square meter of a material in a second [ 60 ng /( Pa.s.m2 )].

1 U.S. perm is actually 57 Ng, that 3 billionths of a gram difference between 57 and 60 is what you call 'close enough for jazz'. And forget the 60 Ng for now, we''ll go with perms only. 

Categorizations of building materials based on their permeability rates:

Understanding vapour permeability:

All we are talking about so far are the stand alone housewraps everyone is used to seeing, which will range from about 6 to 60 perms. To go further down this rabbit hole, you will find that your sheathing will impact vapour permeability of the wall assembly as well.  [Read more about material permeability here] .

Conclusions about the vapour permeability of sheathing seem to differ heavily from different sources, We will run with the pack on this one for now, using the numbers most manufacturers cite.

7/16" OSB (oriented strand board) has a rating of about 2 perms; compare that to half-inch plywood which is about 10 perms. And those rates will change with thickness - 3/4 inch OSB is rated about 40 Ng (2/3rds of a perm) which actually qualifies it as a vapour barrier, and can be used as such on the interior.  [Here's an example of how osb can be used as a vapor barrier]

So you need to look at the wall as a whole, and don't assume that the perm rating of the weather barrier you choose will define the permeability of the exterior of your wall as a whole. 

Starting off with such a low-perm sheathing as OSB means even a high-perm weather barrier may have little effect, so the added cost of plywood is something that may be worth considering investing in for your overall wall durability, as it is 5 times more permeable to vapour than OSB.

Also important to remember is that if you are putting a rigid board insulation on the exterior, that as well will have a vapour permeability rating that should be considered. As an example, 2 inches of Roxul ComfortBoard is rated between 30 and 40 perms, compared to 2 inches of EPS foam which is about 1 perm, and 2 inches of XPS foam is only about .5 perms. Meaning, by putting 2 inches of foam on the outside of the house you have effectively just installed an exterior vapour barrier.

Permeability is tested in two manners - 'dry cup' and 'wet cup' . Each method simulates the vapour drive in a different direction, so the resulting numbers vary, and manufacturers may not always tell you which test method was used.

To use Vent SA from Cosella-Dörken as an example (which to our knowledge has the highest perm rating of peel-and-stick membranes), their 'wet cup' test resulted in a rating of 31 perms, dry cup testing was 50 perms. Not all manufacturers will list both numbers or even tell you which result they are posting, assume they are putting their best foot forward and giving you the more favourable looking number. 

A rainscreen allows walls to dry:

'Ventilated rainscreen' is a term that gets somewhat misunderstood and defined differently at times. It isn't an individual product or material, but a design feature. The combination of a weather barrier, strapping and exterior cladding and ventilation openings at the top and bottom together create a 'rainscreen'. The intention of a rainscreen is to protect walls from a driving rain while allowing any water that does penetrate to drain out, and letting air move through it so it can dry.

Installing siding directly against your weather barrier will greatly reduce the ability of a wall to dry. This isn't very common anymore but it does still happen. Always install strapping to separate the siding from the weather barrier. And a common practice to avoid is installing strapping horizontally. That prevents both the drainage and air convection that is essential for walls to stay dry. Water drains down and warm air rises - don't stop that from happening. 

If your siding choice requires horizontal strapping (like board and batten), include some kind of spacer in back of it so water can still drain and air can still rise. Without that space behind it, horizontal strapping can lead to a small amount of standing water that can saturate building materials.

That gap in a rain screen doesn't need to be significant, just enough for water to drain and air to rise. If the weather barrier is tightly attached, as in the case of a peel-and-stick membrane or is part of a rigid board product, building scientists say as little as 1/16th gap provides a capillary break, that will let liquid water drain out. 

If you have a loose or bunched up weather barrier that might block that space, you may be wise to install a thicker spacer to ensure that space is continuous. Care during installation is what will determine how well your rainscreen blocks and releases moisture. 

To Read more about High Performance Wall Assemblies see here , in the EcoHome Green Building Guides

Related searches.

• Air barrier
• Weather barrier
• Vapor barrier
• Exterior cladding
• Building science
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• Rainscreens
• Water resistive barrier
• Ventilated rainscreens
• Weather resistive barrier
• The difference between air barriers and vapour barriers
• Weather barriers
• Exterior siding

Comments (20)

Do you need house wrap if you're installing rigid foam on the exterior, that's sealed at all joints? 

Hi Marie,  

You don’t absolutely have to install a WRB overtop of rigid foam panels, but a lot builders choose to anyway as it is a good way to ensure that any water that infiltrates through siding due to driving rain doesn’t end up in the joints of the foam boards and to make sure the wall can drain properly; it can also be a good safeguard to make sure that water from window flashings does not get in behind the foam.

Some builders also use the WRB as an air barrier, so before you omit it from your wall assembly you should make sure that you have a proper air barrier.

And how thick is the foam you are installing? Keep in mind that rigid foam insulation can be a vapor barrier – XPS as of about 1 inch, EPS as of about 2 inches. And Polyiso insulation with foil is a vapour barrier . Despite the fact that we regularly see it being installed on the exterior of houses, that isn’t a great thing since it acts as a vapour barrier. So the thicker you can make it the better; I would propose at least 2 inches, but 3 or 4 would be even better. And with or without a WRB, be sure to have a drainage plane where water can drain; at this link is a video on how to install siding so walls can dry . And here is another video that may be of value to you about how to install a peel and stick exterior air barrier . 

I used 7/16 OSB sheathing and will be installing tongue and groove pine siding.  I will also install a rainscreen with strapping.  My question is, does the type of house wrap matter? I have either Prime Wrap which is a perforated fabric or Tyvek which is not perforated.  From your article, because the OSB has such a low perm, I don't really have to worry about how many perms the house wrap has.  Thanks!

Hi Kathy, There really isn't clear and concise info regarding permeability once you start layering different materials on top of each other. I don't think you can really go wrong with either, but we would say  the more your wall can dry the better. Each material should have a specs page where they list their permeability if you want to know for sure which is more permeable to moisture. And most important is to install the siding properly, see the link in the comment above. 

I have a question involving radiant barrier house wrap on top of ZipR.  I am in process of finalizing exterior wall designs and I want to place a radiant barrier with a Perm Rating of 6 on top of the Zip R.  The Zip R would be the water barrier and have 1"of rigid foam on the inside for a thermal break and R Value of 6 attached to a 2x6 wall which will have Roxul mineral Wool insulation, R value of 23 for something near a final R vaule of 29. I want to put a Radiant Barrier wrap on the outside that has a Perm Rating of 6. I was wondering if anybody has done this and if that Perm Rating would allow any moisture that got past the Rain Screen and the Radiant Barrier and onto the Zip to dry fast enough to avoid any issues.

Hi Mike - I'm building a new house that is 70% stucco, 20% Cedar siding, and 10% stone. The climate is low humidity and low rainfall/20" rainfall yearly. The plan is to use TYVEK over the OSB. I keep hearing that xxxxxxx would be a superior product to use? Can that be so??

We have blocked out the name because we often get manufacturers on here trying to start discussions on their own products Doug, and honestly it doesn't stick out as either as being either better or worse than all the other competitors. Who do you keep hearing that from? And where are you building?

I’ve heard commentary about Barricade from our local Boise builders. I was planning to use Tyvek but - everyone has their own opinion I realize that. Actual test data is needed. I just want a good house wrap for my situation. My house is located in Star, Idaho. 83669 Thanks Mike

Hey Doug.  There is nothing wrong with tyvek, the product itself works great, but typically people put thousands of holes in it with staples and nails so installation is always where it's faults come from. I would say be very sparing with the staples if you can, and when possible only put them at the very top where it will be overlapped and taped, Strapping will hold it tight to the wall in the center.  That works if you come by soon enough with the strapping so you don't leave it flapping in the wind. 

Our preference is the peel and stick membranes as they do a much better job at air sealing a house. As for choosing one, check the perm ratings on company spec sheets online and you can see how they stack up against each other for permeability, then it's down to price and what you have access to. 

And I'll also point you to our page about how to install siding so walls can dry , that will help your WRB do the job it is intended to do.  

I have a home built in the late 1960s in MA. The prior owner covered the house with vinyl, which was not done with care. Water gets behind the vinyl. The cedar wood clapboard is rotted in many places. Also, behind the cedar is missing and or torn tar paper. There is a heavy mildew smell outside in places. Inside there is a dry musty smell as well. We are considering removing the vinyl and replacing the siding with new cedar wood along with a rain guard. However, my main concern is wrapping the house in something to air tight to prevent the house from breathing and causing trapped dry musty and mildew smells inside the house. My house does not have central air, which makes an air exchange unit not possible.

What do you recommend for my house? Any help is greatly apprecaited.

Sounds like the exterior cladding was built wrong all around, sorry to say. If there was tar paper against sheathing and then shingles directly on the tar paper, it will not be able to dry. See this page here – How to install siding so walls can dry .

I think you are best to remove it and the vinyl, then do a proper weather barrier with an air space and strapping as explained in that page I just linked. I can’t guarantee the musty smell will go away instantly, but I would think it would dissipate over time if the walls are able to dry out.

As for air exchangers, there is one product that may work for you, it is a great solution for installing ventilation without having to run ducts all around your house, see here - ductless air exchanger for renovations 

And I wouldn't hesitate to do these repairs for fear of trapping air, your house will continue to rot if you don't. And even by making the house air tight, if you build it so walls can dry I can't imagine your air quality getting worse even without an air exchanger, even the most airtight house will still have some air leaks and change the indoor air. 

I am building a 3 season summer cabin in Maine, rat slab, no attic. The inside will be tongue and groove pine, the insulation Cel Pak, the exterior Hardie Shingle and Hardie Panel and batten.  

If we use 5/8" CDX plywood, what would you recommend for housewrap , ie level of vapor permeability?

And Any vapor barrier inside the Cel Pak?

Our Canadian home is 20 years old and is subject to extreme winds and driving snow and rain.  I want to replace the vinyl siding but want to also insulate the outside. I was thinking of putting Rockwool insulation on the outside of the wall and then new foam backed vinyl siding. Do I need to also put a vapour barrier between the rockwool and siding? Your help and advice will be appreciated 

Rockwool is a smart idea but I would skip the foam backed vinyl. For cold climate houses, foam is okay on the outside when it is thick enough, but adding just an inch could do more harm than good as it will act as second  vapour barrier, and an exterior one, which is not good. Rockwool lets moisture pass through, whereas foam will stop or at least slow it, to the point where you can have condensation form. If foam is thick enough (as in being about 2/3rds of the wall insulation) then the interior surface becomes the vapour barrier, but it will be warm. So, either go with Rockwool comfortboard , or if you want to use foam then we would suggset you make sure it is thicker that the existing wall insulation. This Thermalwall foam panel that has a metal rail inside for fastening it if you want use foam, the other issue with exterior rigid insulation panels is finding a suitable way to fasten them. 

Building a detatched garage in Manitoba Canada where the Painted LP Smartside exterior sheeting is the finished product so it is attached directly to the 2X6 framing.  Joints are all on studs, walls to be insulated R20 with Vapor barrier on inside and drywall attached.  Between the vapor barrier on the inside, and the painted finished Smartside exterior, is there a need for a weather barrier/house wrap as well? We had considered doing housewrap between the Smartside and the 2X6 framing, not sure if it's needed.  Comments?

I don't know the product, but from what you say I would be concerned about how the wall is supposed to dry. Is the intention for these to replace sheating and prevent racking?

A typical siding install, when you're thinking about durability, would include an airspace between the siding and the framed wall sheathing to allow any moisture in the wall to escape. If you attach this siding directly to the stud wall, then the vapour permeabilty of that siding becomes important, and that doesn't look permeable to me. If you look at our page about how to install siding so walls can dry you will see the air space behind the siding so that humidity in the wall can espape. Maybe have a look at the product specs or contact the company to ask about how the wall is supposed to dry and let us know. I just don't really see it. Short story - I would want to have sheathing or at least cross bracing, a weather barrier, vertical strapping then the siding, this way air can get in behind so moisture doesn't build up. 

Can I use Weather Watch instead of a House Wrap ?

Unless they have a more extensive product line than I was able to find, I would stick with your preferred brand of house wrap if you're talking about walls.

The Weather Watch membrane I saw was an ice and water shield roof membrane, is that what you are talking about?  For roofs I imagine it is similar to many other brands or water proof roof membranes, but to replace Tyvek then no. Tyvek is a moisture permeable house wrap, Weather Watch is not.

Choosing the right weather barrier on a house really depends on what you are hoping the membrane will do. There are places within a building assembly where a waterproof membrane is suitable, and places where it isn't. If you tell us what your wall assembly is going to be we can help you figure out the right type of membrane. 

Hi, I am renovating a painted cinder block garage and have chosen various insulations that are made to breathe. It was painted prior to my purchase so I am not sure what type of paint but it does not bubble.

1)Should I sand this to try to open it up to breathe just in case?

For the east and south facing bathroom walls i will use pure wool insulation which is breathable and moisture resistant. I have read that it is important not to put a moisture barrier between the inside block wall and the insulation because swetting will drip down to the floor but that it may be a good idea to wrap the exterior with a wind/ weather barrier.

2) I would like to know your expert opinion on how and with what materials you would construct the finish wall exterior to interior starting with the cinder blocks and including wool insulation and pine 2x4 studs for interior? including is it good to add moisture resistant drywall for bathroom over the wool at all ? directly? or with something against the studs between wool and drywall? 

Thank you, J in  Ohio

that is exterior painting on block walls not interior

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Every exterior weather barrier house wrap like Tyvek is intended to be breathable and let moisture pass though it, and you can usually find permeability rates listed on the manufacturers website specs pages. Simply for good measure we would recommend getting the most vapor permeable weather barrier, but more important than how they perform in laboratory testing is how they actually play out in real life after they are installed. For that reason we prefer the ‘peel and stick’ membranes as they adhere directly to the surface of sheathing rather than having to attach them with staples and nails, which lead to untold thousands of holes in your air barrier. This page explains it clearly –

Choosing a house wrap, which is best?

That page outlines the pros and cons of different types of house wraps, and as mentioned, how you apply them is as important as the products you choose. The best weather barrier in the world won’t help if you pop a thousand holes in it! We have a DIY green home building video series on our YouTube channel that takes you through all the steps of durable and efficient home design, here are two from that series that will also help you a lot, about how we installed a weather barrier and how to install siding as well –

How to install air barriers properly for a durable and energy efficient house

How to install siding so walls can dry

As for your pine siding, are the boards going to be horizonal or vertical? And what is your climate zone or closest city? Building properly for specific climates is important for home durability.  

There would be no problem adding a peel-and-stick membrane that covers interior spray foam , and it would definitely give you an excellent air seal. 

page explains all about weather barriers -  Choosing a weather barrier house wrap, which is best?

This page explains air / vapor barriers -  The difference between air barriers and vapor barriers   

this one caulking and sealants which is best?

But a ' double vapor barrier ' isn't really something you need to concern yourself with, so don't go out of your way to find a breathable membrane . Even if the spray foam   itself is not providing a proper air seal , it is most definitely acting as a vapor barrier , so putting another vapor impermeable membrane (like 6 mil poly) right against it really wouldn't make a difference in terms of vapor migration through the wall and roof assembly.

And while that solution would work fine, it sounds like an expensive one. You could save quite a bit of money if you were to just use standard 6 mil polyethene. If you pre-seal the joints in the poly with acoustic seal and even cover the staple holes, I think you could achieve a comparable air barrier but at a fraction of the price.

My only concern in what you write is not knowing exactly what you mean when you say the seams are 'thin'. If you mean there is an insufficient amount of insulation that is causing the problem, then you will be experiencing a lot of heat loss, if that's the case you may wish the thicken the insulation for energy efficiency purposes.

If a home doesn’t have a poly vapour barrier, several coats of paint, and specifically oil paint can make a suitable vapour barrier. You can even buy vapor barrier paint / vapor retarder primer . The bigger concern would be, does your home have an air barrier? More often than not over the last many decades the 6-mil poly is meant to be the air barrier as well, which is very different, read more here –

The difference between air barriers and vapor barriers and how to apply them

As for a way to explain it, a vapour barrier is in effect ‘water proofing’ walls, or at least making it water resistant. Oil paint on plaster walls or drywall will prevent moisture from absorbing into the wall cavities just as a poly vapour barrier would, but it won’t stop air leakage.

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