2000 ford excursion ac not working

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• 2nd Gen - 2003 - 2006

Air Conditioner Problem Fixed FINALLY

• Thread starter Jb14
• Start date Jun 19, 2013

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• Jun 19, 2013

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Hi Folks I am posting this in hopes that it can help you all not to have to go through what I had to for a year with and air conditioning issue with my 2005 Expedition. Issue: My A/C started to not be cold so I took it to a trusted mechanic who diagnosed my issue as needing a Freon charge. When the $125.00 service was done the trusted mechanic said that my A/C compressor was week and needed to be replaced (after charge blowing coldish) So I purchased a complete kit (not from ford but a good kit anyways) and had it replaced (parts and labor $1200) Issue 2: After job was complete the system ran cool but not cold like I expected then in a month and a half the system was blowing hot again. Many trip back to the not anymore trusted mechanic produced no resolution and the same blowing coldish to hot air (and ALLOT OF FRUSTRATION) Now to the year later when he finally took my Expy to a friend mechanic of his who diagnosed my issue as a bad condenser and clutch fan. Now down to the real bend me over solution. I had the not trusted mechanic repair the parts that was the issue and he only replaced the clutch fan and not the condenser>>> Guess what with only the clutch fan replaced my A/C works just as good as it did before all the issues. Long story short replacing the $100 clutch fan solved my issue I ended up spending close to 2k for in parts, time, gas and agony when it was just the clutch fan. Hope this helps someone out there!! REVISION; Finally fix part 2 Cautionary tale of bad mechanics Ive never had this much trouble before. But my Fixed A/C stopped working again I took it to a new mechanic who after alot of trouble shooting found the problem. Which was again the Clutch Fan that was replace 10 days ago by the bad mechanic. Turns out Expy's on certain parts do not like aftermarket part which is what the bad mechanic installed (Auto Zone part) so after another $700 and a factory ford clutch fan It seems to be working properly. So if an issue pop for the Ford part.  

Sad. Most mechanics are just parts replacement monkeys nowadays. No one knows how to troubleshoot anymore. I blame it on video games.  

• Jun 20, 2013

That sux, but I just had my AC recharged with 10 oz of freon today, and when the mechanic was inspecting it after the charge, realized that the fan clutch was going out too. Ford wants $375 to replace it, but I found the clutch online for $100 and am considering doing it myself.  

FordandPolaris

Stoned06 said: That sux, but I just had my AC recharged with 10 oz of freon today, and when the mechanic was inspecting it after the charge, realized that the fan clutch was going out too. Ford wants $375 to replace it, but I found the clutch online for $100 and am considering doing it myself. Click to expand...

• Jun 21, 2013

The new clutch fan that was installed (by that mechanic) really robs the truck of power so pick wisely  

• Aug 6, 2018

chubbadunes

I really hope this works. I have dumped $1000 in labor and parts replacing my compressor with an Autozone kit, 2 months later it was blowing hot again. So replaced it again 3 weeks ago and here I am again sweating my ass off in Phoenix, az 110 degrees out, I'm so pissed. I'm glad I decided to look online and found this post, we'll see if replacing the clutch fan and condenser works.  

What is really sad is that with a little knowledge on how auto ac works the fan clutch failing shows up as higher pressure on the high side. To test whether the fan is moving enough air through the condenser all you have to do is put a shop fan blowing into the condenser when the system is running. If the pressure drops into range, you have found a problem.  

• Aug 9, 2018

Prince_Polaris

FordGate said: Sad. Most mechanics are just parts replacement monkeys nowadays. No one knows how to troubleshoot anymore. I blame it on video games. Click to expand...

• Aug 10, 2018

You'll be amazed at how much you learn by reading and comprehending books. There is a difference between video games, computer based training (cbt) and books. Videos are usually the abridged version of a book.  

Well-Known Member

Not everyone learns the same way. Some people can read a book and learn, others are more visual. Hands on is the best method for many. Each has to find what works for yourself. Some of the most successful people I know were near failures in the formal education they attempted. Myself, I learn by making mistakes .. thats why I dont own a sailboat! https://www.learning-styles-online.com/overview/  

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Ford Expedition : AC Compressor Not Turning On – Diagnosis

No matter where you live if your Ford Expedition ‘s AC compressor is not turning on, it can turn a pleasant commute into a nightmare (particularly if you have kids that are riding with you).

The AC compressor pulley is always being turned by either the serpentine belt or a dedicated belt (it’s going to depend on the model year and engine type).  It uses a clutch to grab the pulley and cycle coolant through your Expedition ‘s AC system.  

If this clutch doesn’t grab, the AC compressor will not turn on.

Before opening the hood to see if there is anything wrong with the AC compressor, start the Expedition and turn the AC off and back on a few times.  Do it somewhere quiet.  

If you hear a “thunk” or “clunk” noise after turning the AC on, the compressor is engaging.  Something else is the problem. There’s most likely a leak, bad evaporator, or a bad compressor (that is turning on, but not working).  If that’s the case, jump to this article: Ford Expedition AC Not Blowing Cold .

Here’s how to about diagnosing why your AC is not turning on in your Ford Expedition :

1. Inspect Your Expedition ‘s AC/Serpentine Belt

As stated above, your Expedition ‘s AC compressor may be turned by the serpentine belt that turns all of the engine accessories.  Or, it may be turned by an independent belt.  If there are two belts, they’ll both be attached at the crank pulley.

Inspect the belt to see if it is cracked or shiny.  It may just be that the belt can’t turn the compressor anymore.  It could even be missing entirely without you noticing if it is an independent belt.

After inspecting the belt, there can only be two things left that could be happening:

1. The clutch is not getting a signal to turn on.  This indicates some form of wiring problem.

2. The AC compressor is getting a command to turn on but is no longer able to, which would indicate that it needs replacing.

2. Turn the Compressor by Hand

Your Expedition ‘s AC compressor should freely turn by hand when it is not engaged.  Obviously, you’d want to do this with the vehicle off.  It’ll often be located by electric fans.  Even with the key off, treat them like they can still come on.

You don’t want to turn the pulley where it is attached to the belt.  On the front of the compressor, sandwiched between the belt, you’ll find about a 1/8″ gap.  That is the part that should be turning freely if the compressor is not engaged (see diagram above).

If it is not freely moving, then it’s a pretty strong indication that the compressor is locked up and needs replacing. On the other hand, if it is turning freely, we need to determine why it’s not activating.

3. Check Your Expedition ‘s AC Wiring Harness

Being that the clutch compressor is just a few feet off of the road, it can accrue wiring damage over the years.

Inspect the harness to make sure that it doesn’t have any opens or shorts.  If it looks good, it’s time to move on to testing the relay and seeing if you can manually get the compressor to turn on.

The power going to the AC compressor relay is going to be fused, so check that fuse while you’re at it as well.  You can do this in under 2 minutes with a test light.

4. Test the Compressor Clutch

You can use a jump wire to determine if your Ford Expedition ‘s AC compressor clutch is activating properly. But, first, you’ll need to locate the compressor relay.

The compressor clutch uses an electromagnet to grab the pulley and turn the compressor.  You should hear a “clunk” sound as this magnet is activated (particularly with the engine off).

You’ll need a jump wire.  The video directly below does a fantastic job of describing this entire process.

Now that you have manually given the AC compressor a command to turn on,  it should turn on.  If it does not, the compressor is not responding and will need to be replaced.

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Ac Not Working Properly

2000 ford expedition.

• « back to AC / heater
• Complaints 1K
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2000 Ford Expedition Owner Comments

Jun 01 2007

Expedition Eddie Bauer V8

• Automatic transmission
• 80,000 miles

A D V E R T I S E M E N T S

Have never been able to repair. We have taken it to several different places through the years. They charged system and checked for leaks. No leaks ever detected. Continued to recharge system and now that doesn't work.

- Lonnie L. , Morganton, GA, US

Aug 06 2010

Expedition Eddie Bauer 5.4L V8

• 143,000 miles

AC would not blow cold air, had the repair shop look for any leaks and there are leaks and the condensor unit needs to be repalced. The labor was the most expensive, which as I live upnorth I could live with it as its my short distance vehicle.

- Javier A. , Stow, OH, US

Jul 27 2006

• 47,000 miles

I have a 2000 Ford Expedition and when I am going on an uphill, pressing down on the gas, my air conditioning moves to just the defrost spot, but is still blowing cold air. Once I level off, it goes back on to the original spot (air conditioning ducts). Cant figure this one out. Any suggestions?? Thanks

- Michelle P. , San Diego, CA, US

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Home » Troubleshooting » Ford Excursion heater not working – causes and diagnosis

Ford Excursion heater not working – causes and diagnosis

The heater in Ford Excursion ensures comfortable temperature in the passenger compartment when the weather is chilly. There are many reasons for poor heating performance in Excursion, which are explained in this article.

The heater may stop working in Ford Excursion due to low coolant level or air in the cooling system, clogged heater core, bad thermostat, faulty blend door actuator, bad water pump, dirty cabin air filter, bad blower motor, or HVAC control unit malfunction.

1. Low coolant or air in the cooling system

Low coolant level or air in the cooling system can cause the heater to stop working properly in Excursion. If the cooling system is not full and bled properly, the water pump will not be able to push the coolant around the system efficiently.

The heating system in Excursion uses hot coolant or antifreeze from the engine block to heat the interior of the vehicle. The hot coolant is pumped through the heater core located behind the dashboard. When you turn on the heating, air gets blown through the heater core, warming the air in the cabin. If there is air trapped inside the heater core, the coolant will not be able to flow through it properly. Since the heater core is usually slightly higher, the air will accumulate in there first. By filling and properly bleeding the system the heat should come back.

Sloshing water sound

Low coolant level or air in the heater core can sometimes cause sloshing sound from behind the dashboard when the engine is running. The sound is most prominent right after you start the vehicle.

Check coolant level

Checking coolant level in Excursion is a fairly some job. You just have to locate the coolant overflow reservoir and inspect the level of coolant in it. If the coolant level is low, open the cap and pour some coolant into the tank until it is between minimum and maximum mark.

Recommended video

2. Clogged heater core

Clogged heater core is one of the leading causes of heating not working in Ford Excursion. The design of the heater core is similar to the radiator, it has narrow internal channels through which hot coolant flows. Over time, the heater core can begin to rust or mineral deposits can form in these channels, blocking the flow of the coolant.

How to check if the heater core is clogged

You don’t have to remove the heater core in your Excursion to check if it is clogged. Locate two rubber hoses that connect to the heater core through the firewall area. Feel both the rubber lines going in and out of the heater core after the engine has warmed up. Both should be hot. If one is hot and the other is cold, you have a plugged heater core.

Flush the heater core

Before you consider replacing the heater core in your Excursion, it is recommended to flush the existing heater core. Flushing is done by pushing water through the outlet hose of the heater core and draining the gunk from the inlet hose. There are flush kits available in the market that can help you do the job yourself.

3. Bad thermostat

Thermostat is a part of the cooling system in Ford Excursion which ensures that the engine reaches its optimal operating temperature as quickly as possible and maintain it under all operating conditions.

Thermostat is stuck open

When you start your Excursion when the engine is cold, the thermostat cuts off flow of coolant through the radiator in order to quickly reach the optimal engine operating temperature. But if the thermostat has developed a defect and is stuck to open position, the coolant will continuously flow through the radiator and the engine may take a long time to reach its optimal operating temperature.

Heater takes a long time to blow hot air

Since the heating system in Excursion relies on the hot coolant from the engine to heat the interior, the heater will blow cold air until the engine reaches its normal operating temperature. But if the weather is too cold, the engine may never reach its optimal operating temperature with a stuck open thermostat. Your vehicle may also consume more fuel than normal.

5. Bad water pump

The water pump is the heart of the cooling system in Excursion responsible for pumping coolant throughout the system and cooling the engine. If the water pump has worn out and the coolant is not being circulated as effectively as it used to, it can cause the heater to stop working properly because there’s less coolant available to transfer heat between the engine and the heater core.

Water pumps usually last for more than 100,000 miles, but they can fail at any time. A bad water pump will not only cause poor heating, but can also result in engine damage due to overheating. Therefore it is important to diagnose a failing water pump at early stages to avoid expensive repairs later on.

6. Faulty blend door actuator

Blend door actuator plays a role in controlling the temperature inside your Excursion. If the blend door actuator fails to fully open the blend door towards the heater core, it will result in poor heating performance.

The most common symptom of a faulty blend door actuator in Ford Excursion is a slight clicking sound (or other unusual noise) repeatedly coming from under the dashboard. The sound will be most prominent for a few seconds when you turn on the air conditioning or adjust the temperature.

Symptom: knocking sound

A knocking noise from behind the dashboard could be an indicator of a bad blend door actuator in your Excursion. The sound is something like a light tapping on the door and it typically happens when you turn on/off the air conditioning system or start the engine.

Symptom: creaking sound

One side hot, other side cold.

A common symptom of a faulty blend door actuator in vehicles with dual zone climate control system is one side blowing hot air while the other side is blowing cold air.

Replace the faulty part

A bad blend door actuator usually cannot be repaired and must be replaced with a new one. Due to the complexity of the replacement job, it is not recommended as a DIY project. The blend door actuator may require recalibration after replacement.

7. Dirty cabin air filter

Dirty cabin air filter is the leading cause of weak heater airflow in Ford Excursion. The pollen filter, also known as the cabin air filter or microfilter, is responsible for filtering the air that the passengers breathe in the cabin. A dirty filter causes the overall ventilation of the interior to deteriorate resulting in reduced heating and airflow.

There is no fixed time for replacing the cabin air filter, but most manufacturers recommend a change after 10,000-20,000 miles. If you drive your vehicle in dusty or polluted environment, the filter can get dirty much sooner than manufacturer’s recommendation. Additionally, if you drive your Excursion with AC system set to fresh outside air most of the time, your cabin air filter will get dirty much sooner as compared to air recirculation mode.

Replace the filter at the start of every winter for optimal performance

It is generally recommended to replace the cabin air filter every year at the start of the winter season. Spring and summer seasons are hard on the cabin air filter because of pollen and bugs, and in the fall they can get clogged with leaf debris. This gives you a fresh start for the winter, improves defroster performance, and reduces chances of mold or mildew growth.

Can you clean a dirty cabin air filter?

Instead of changing the cabin air filter in Excursion, it is often recommended to first clean the filter. This can be done, for example, with a vacuum cleaner or a compressed air system, removing at least a large part of the visible dirt particles. Unfortunately, this procedure does not allow you to get into the deeper layers of the filter. Therefore, the filter performance will not increase significantly even after cleaning. As a rule, there is no avoiding a change if the filter is dirty.

8. Sluggish blower motor

If the blower motor in your Excursion is not spinning fast enough either due to an internal defect or due to a fault in the resistor/control module, the airflow from the AC vents will be weaker and the heating performance will be degraded.

When a blower motor goes bad, it usually makes unusual noises when in operation, and the passengers may feel reduced airflow from the air vents. Keep in mind that reduced airflow doesn’t always indicate a problem with the blower motor, as it can also happen due to a clogged cabin air filter, dirty evaporator, or a bad mode door actuator. So, all of them must be inspected when diagnosing poor airflow.

9. Dead blower motor (no airflow)

If there is no air flow from the air vents in the dashboard when you turn on the heater in your Ford Excursion, it means the problem is related to the fan or blower motor function.

The most common causes for blower motor not working in Ford Excursion are blown fuse, bad relay, resistor or control module malfunction, and faulty blower motor. However, a bad electrical connector or broken wire, or a defect in the climate control unit can also cause the blower motor to stop working.

10. Dirty evaporator

Dirty evaporator can cause weak airflow and reduce the heating performance in Excursion. Although, the evaporator coil is a component of the cooling function of the air-conditioning system, but the air always first passes through the evaporator and then flows over the heater core.

The cabin air filter captures most of the dirt or other airborne particles, but some particles escape and can get lodged on to the evaporator. Over time, these particles build up on the fins and block the air flow through the evaporator, causing reduced air flow in the cabin and poor heating or cooling.

Function of the evaporator in heating mode

When the heater is turned on and the AC turned off, the compressor does not turn on and the evaporator is not cooled. When you press the AC button in heating mode, the compressor turns on and the evaporator cools and dries the air before it enters the heater core. This mode is useful for clearing fog from the windows.

11. Faulty HVAC module

Climate control module is the brain of the air-conditioning system in your Ford Excursion, responsible for controlling all the components in the system. In rare cases, a fault in the climate control unit can cause the heater to stop functioning. This would require a scan tool to confirm correct operation.

12. Blown head gasket

The head gasket is responsible for providing the seal between the engine block and cylinder heads. Its purpose is to seal the combustion gases within the cylinders and to avoid coolant or engine oil leaking into the cylinders. Leaks in the head gasket can cause all sorts of problems in your Excursion including poor heater performance. This is mostly common in older vehicles.

Leaking exhaust gases

A blown head gasket can cause the exhaust gases from the engine to enter the cooling system and plug the heater core. Clearing the air from the heater core will not help until the head gasket has been replaced.

Leaking coolant

A blown head gasket can cause coolant to leak into the combustion chambers and burn off. If your Excursion is losing coolant, that means there is a leak somewhere or it is getting burned up inside the engine.

How to check if head gasket is leaking in Excursion?

You don’t have to go to a workshop to check for a leaking head gasket in your Excursion. There are test kits available in the market in which you just have to insert a tube filled with colored liquid in the radiator (in place of the radiator cap), and then start the engine. If the liquid changes color, then there is a leak in head gasket.

Switch on air recirculation mode

When the outside temperature drops too low, the heating performance may be reduced in Excursion if the air conditioning system is set to outside air. To improve heating efficiency, it is recommended to switch on air recirculation mode. Don’t worry, there is no risk of suffocation, as the air recirculation mode still allows up to approximately 10 percent of the air coming from the air vents to be fresh air from the outside.

There are many reasons why the heater in your Ford Excursion is not working properly. When looking for the reason, you should start with the most obvious causes: low coolant level or air in the cooling system, and clogged heater core.

In any case, it is advisable for laypersons to visit a workshop. A professional mechanic can swiftly diagnose the heating issue for you.

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