trek y3

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Suspension options for 98 Trek Y3

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I realize this bike was a base model when it came out, but I've owned it since new and, seeing as how I can't find a new bike anywhere (and possibly not even next year), I'm thinking about starting a hunt for replacement suspension components to give me something to do this year. My challenges are that a) the age of the bike and parts comparability, b) little information online about the components, and c) my complete lack of understanding of what specs/measurements are important when looking for suspension forks and rear shocks. The fork is a Rock Shox Indy C long travel going into a threadless 1 1/8" head, and the rear shock is a Fox Vanilla X (6.5" x 1.5" stroke, 5/8" and 7/8" eyelets). Ideally what I'm hoping for is information on what to search for to help find options that would be plug and play to the frame. For example, I see lots of rear shocks that are 6.5 x 1.5, but how does the eyelet measurement come into play? Are there acceptable variants with those measurements? As for the fork, I can't find any information about it, so I don't know what would be an upgrade that would fit. Thanks in advance for any information.  

I realized I should have posted this in the Suspensions section. Sorry about that! Now to figure out how to delete this ....  

Rock Shox Suspension Forks

First, there is basically nothing out there, you alluded to bikes, well, it goes equally so for everything else, doubly so for anything 26" because no one can buy new stuff, they want to ride, so they pull out the old 26ers. This has been happening since last year, so yeah, happy parts hunting. Rock Shox still offers a couple decent forks in the revamped Judy line that are 26, and straight steerer, don't forget to be sure it's 9mm x100mm, quick release too, though. Air, lockout, adjustable rebound even, not too shabby. Rear shocks, there's 8 and 6 mm hardware, you have 6. Measure between the mount tabs, in mm's, and there's your other dimension. Shocks are sold sans hardware, since frame fitment varies so much so you'll be buying two hardware kits, as well as the shock. Good call on Suspensionforkparts.com, get some new bumpers and let the old dog play again, save some coin to boot! Have fun...  

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• 1999, Trek, Y3

1999 Trek Y3

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Trek y 3 Bike 1998 or Older

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For 200 buck you can't beat it. I ride 70+ miles a week through the "concrete jungle" of Philadelphia and I have had no problems. The 13 year old shifters work fine. The derailleurs work fine. I tightened up the rear shock, works fine with no bob. The front shock is ok...I wouldn't recommend it for off road. I have put just over 4k miles on it and I haven't had anything fail. It's a great commuter bike. You can't get a better bike at walmart/kmart/target/dicks...or any other place for $200. Oh and it weighs 27lbs. I guess that's heavy for you crazy people.

Similar Products Used:

Windsor Cliff 7400

bike has made it through extreme conditions with little maintenance. Judy XL front shock and fox stock rear still holding out good. bombed some big drop offs!!.the pivot bearing is finally going out and need a new crank and chain and will be good to go.

very durable

giant atx-890

Strong frame

shocks, components are ok.

The 98' Trek Y3 is a good bike for the money. It is a great beginners bike. The components are ok but not great. The frame design is cool but inconveniant. there is only one water bottle cage mount and if you ride in the mud it gets dirty. The suspension is too simple and needs more adjustment. I use it on 30 mile rides and trail riding and is does fine but i am not used to riding a rerally good bike so i wouldnt know just how bad it really is. Mine is really starting to fall apart because it is 10 years old and it has over 1 thousand miles on it in 8 months of riding it. I used to be really cheap and I had a magna from target and that was trashed in 3 months of riding it to school. My y3 has lasted me a long time compared to other cheap bikes so I would recommend it to begginer mountain bikers or people who want a good bike to ride to school or work.

specialized hardrock

Frame construction, Trek Brand, design

stock grip shifters, Indy C fork, stock brake levers.....gone!

Purcahsed in 1997, I started doing the upgrades in Jan 2000. Wished I started earlier. With the exception of the drivetrain, the upgrades are listed in the Bike Setup area. Even today(2007) this bike is still as solid as the day I brought it home. It's been with me on several Yosemite trips and has been my street cruiser for the last 5 years, and it has always performed flawlesly. Of course it has been well maintained. I do own a 2nd bike and I split the time between both. Do your upgrades, Do your maintainence, Long live your bike! I'm a welder/fabricator by trade, so this bike and all aluminum MTB's are apealing to me

Well, strength is the word. I've beating the living sh*t out of this bike and it just keeps riding strong. Despite its weight and ugly appearance, this bike is a fun ride. The front end is very light making it easier to climb, wheelie and whip through technical sections.

The crap Rockshox Indy C fork that comes with it is best thrown in the garbage can.

Its a very tough bike. I've raced it XC once. Done many dropoffs over 5 feet. Rode in all weather. It's heavy. good beginner's full suspention. It never fails to survive even the wickedest crashes.

Cheap Full suspension jumps well

brakes are weak( they brake ) does not come with clipless pedals coil spring shocks rear shock is hard to adjust bad water bottle placement

It is a good bike for the price but I think it should come with clipless pedals. It runs well. It came with STX/TX components, but it needs a better front fork It is good for just having fun

this bike is a great full suspension for the money. it eats up medium size bumps and rides very smoothly

it is a little heavy and doesn't come with clipless pedals

if you are looking for a full suspension bike but don't have the money this bike is great for you.

after changing just about all the stock componants this is a strong durable bike. i ride year round rain or snow. im not a lite rider (220) and this bike has taken a pounding. i ride it like a cross country.

all stock parts. expecially the front fork (rs jett)the bike is hard to carry over unridable terrain the stock twist shifters were the first to go. then stem,tires,brakes,handel bars....ect...ect...also this bike is hard to clean,many hard to reach places.

i like this bike alot i paid 250.00 for it a year ago used, and ive put alot of up grades in to it. this is also not my primary ridein bike. i use it for harder trails and a beat around bike. with the 120mm on the front it makes a world of diffrence and i really enjoy riding it alot more since ive uped the fork. this bike is reliable and i am not worryed about things breaking during a rough ride. i belive this is a classic bike and theres a reason for that.in its time it was a goooooood bike. i trust this bike better than some of the new stuff out there. this bike bike was not designed for one season of riding and then buy a new one it was made to last.

first full suspention.but i've ridin.98 gt rebound, 00 shwinne moab,giant boulder hard,i now ride g,fisher 04 sugar4+ up graded alot

The bike is a great climber and even better with replacing the rear shock with a shock that has rebound control. This bike also takes a beetng and keeps on ticking. Unlike other dual suspension. The chain does not strech or loosen or ghost shift.

Shocks Front & Rear. I did not realize it until I upgraded. Also the caged petals had to go. Loose 20% to 30% of power transfer to rear wheel from exessive bouncyness (Problem can be easily fixed with rear shock equiped with rebound control)

This bike is a great bike and still one of the best design for a dual suspension bike other than the FSR design. Its pretty much a great all around kind of bike.

Specialized FSR

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