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Light shining through the haze produced by a glass-crushing operation.

New Orleans Likes to Drink. They Spotted a Huge Recycling Opportunity

College students started a venture that has diverted glass bottles from landfills and crushed them into sand for coastal restoration efforts.

Turning discarded glass into sand at Glass Half Full, the only glass recycling facility in New Orleans. Credit...

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By Cara Buckley

Photographs by Annie Flanagan

  • April 27, 2024

It started with a lament over the fate of empty beer and wine bottles.

In early 2020, Franziska Trautmann and Max Steitz, then seniors at Tulane University, were spitballing ways to keep their glass out of the trash. For all of its imbibing, New Orleans didn’t offer curbside glass recycling. Pretty much all of the many bottles drained in the Crescent City ended up in landfills.

For Ms. Trautmann and Mr. Steitz, this wasn’t just galling, but a missed opportunity. The city’s wetlands were fast eroding, and glass could be ground up into sand. What if they collected glass around town, crushed it into sand and put it to good use?

Buoyed by the optimism of youth and enthusiastic crowdfunding, they bought a small glass pulverizer and put it in the backyard of an accommodating local fraternity, Zeta Psi. Almost immediately, their drop-off barrels overflowed. “We underestimated how much demand there was,” Mr. Steitz, 27, said.

Now, four years later, their company, Glass Half Full, is the only glass recycling facility in New Orleans. It has become the founders’ full time work, employs a staff of 15 and has expanded far beyond what they imagined.

To date, their operation has crushed seven millions of pounds of glass that’s been used in disaster-relief sandbags, terrazzo flooring, landscaping, wetland restoration and research. They offer curbside pickups in New Orleans and Baton Rouge and recently opened a small facility in Birmingham, Ala. The company is poised to move to a new three-acre site in St. Bernard Parish after raising $4.5 million to build out and equip the new location, which they will rent.

Glass Half Full’s revenues last year were $1 million, according to Ms. Trautmann, 26, who said the venture was breaking even.

Profitability in glass recycling depends on quality, proximity to a recycling facility and how glass containers are collected. Glass that is gathered with paper, plastic and other recyclables becomes contaminated and difficult to sort, driving down its value, said Scott DeFife, president of the Glass Packaging Institute, a trade association. So while glass can be endlessly recycled, it often isn’t.

“The folks at Glass Half Full are doing yeoman’s work down there,” Mr. DeFife said. But, he added, the reason they had to exist was indicative of “the broken system of waste management in this country.”

In many ways, Glass Half Full is testing whether it can solve a mismatch.

A man in a yellow safety vest is carrying some equipment amid large white bags filled with recyclables. In the background, a black car with its hatchback open is ready to unload items for recycling.

About a third of glass thrown out in the United States is recycled, while recycling rates in New Orleans are among the lowest in the country. At the same time, sand, which is crucial for construction, is in growing demand around the world. The United Nations has warned of a looming shortage. But excavating sand is often environmentally damaging and its weight makes it expensive to transport.

In Louisiana, where wetlands have been vanishing at an average rate of a football field every 100 minutes, the state needs millions of cubic meters of material to rebuild its coast. Yet upriver dredging and damming of the Mississippi River keeps sediment that could otherwise be used for wetland restoration in faraway states, too expensive to ship.

Glass Half Full’s operations are still small, and its coastal restoration work is still largely in the research stage. But its founders say that pulverizing bottles in New Orleans and using the sand for local projects could help lessen the environmental damage and expense of dredging and shipping, while at the same time diverting glass from landfills. It’s a win, win, win proposition, Ms. Trautmann and Mr. Steitz say.

“Another person in the coastal industry called this a ‘pop-up quarry,’” Ms. Trautmann said. “We can generate sediment in the city, which usually isn’t possible.”

At Tulane, Ms. Trautmann, who is from rural Louisiana, studied chemical engineering. Mr. Steitz grew up in Manhattan and Brooklyn, and majored in international development after spending a gap year in Greece volunteering with refugees. With another Tulane student, Max Landy, they started a nonprofit in 2019 called Plant the Peace, which raised money to plant trees.

Mr. Steitz, appalled at the paucity of local recycling options, thought they should branch out into recycling glass. At the time, New Orleans was accepting glass from residents just once a month and had a cap of 50 pounds per person.

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The group hadn’t fully researched whether pulverized glass could be used to restore wetlands, but still forged ahead and announced its fund-raising plan on social media, where it caught fire.

The project was scrappy and driven by a do-it-yourself ethos. They couldn’t afford trash cans, let alone recycling bins with wheels, so Ms. Trautmann found cheap, used 55-gallon barrels that they placed, with permission, at a few churches, a pizza shop and in Mr. Steitz’s front yard.

They raised enough to buy their first glass crusher for a few thousand dollars and soon discovered how smelly, messy and loud the work was. At one point even the fraternity brothers complained, albeit during finals week. The police were also called, though officers ended up telling the students to carry on, Ms. Trautmann said.

The venture made the local news, and their drop-off sites were quickly overwhelmed. They raised funds for more glass crushers and moved to a small workshop, which, Mr. Steitz said, “we outgrew on Day Two.” Helped by more crowdfunding and a growing team of volunteers, they relocated to a 40,000-square-foot warehouse in August 2020.

Their early batches went into sandbags for flooding, which they doled out for a suggested donation of $5 apiece. A local terrazzo maker wanted crushed blue glass, so they began sorting their bottles by color and selling to local landscapers. They also sell glass sand and gravel on their website.

Along with selling their glass products, and regularly hosting fund-raisers (one was named “Glasstonbury”) they also started offering residential and commercial glass collection for a fee. They expanded curbside pickup to Baton Rouge and most recently Birmingham, where they plan to sell the cullet, scraps of waste glass that can be remelted, for glass manufacturing and perhaps fiberglass production.

“Part of the puzzle is building up demand,” Mr. Steitz said. “With any of these we need tremendous volume.”

Their first business customer was Snake and Jake’s Christmas Club Lounge, a ramshackle, light-festooned dive bar close to the Tulane campus.

“It drives me crazy how everybody’s having a great time partying down here and throwing trash away like it’s nothing,” said the bar’s owner, Dave Clements, a self-described old hippie who pays Glass Half Full $165 a month to collect his bar’s castoffs. “They’re well intentioned,” he added. “And I think it’s helping.”

In 2021, research began into the heart of their work, analyzing whether their glass was safe for the environment. Julie Albert, an associate professor in Tulane’s department of chemical and biomolecular engineering, led a team that found the company’s glass sand and gravel was clean, with low levels of lead and other contaminants. In greenhouse experiments, they found that native plants grew well in the glass sand and that it didn’t kill fish or crabs or damage their soft tissues. The project was awarded $5 million from the National Science Foundation to expand the research, and the team is in the process of publishing their findings.

After the product was determined to be ecologically safe, Glass Half Full installed a demonstration project on Pointe-au-Chien tribal land, building a rain garden, a glass gravel drain and garden beds. They supplied 100,000 pounds of sand in biodegradable burlap bags to build berms at Big Branch Marsh National Wildlife Refuge on the north shore of Lake Pontchartrain in New Orleans, where storm surges and winds have caused saltwater to intrude in freshwater.

Still, there is skepticism about how effectively glass sand and sediment can restore wetlands or beaches.

James Karst, a spokesman for the Coalition to Restore Coastal Louisiana, a nonprofit group that has worked with Glass Half Full on several projects, pointed to the raft of problems coastal Louisiana faces: sinking earth, rising sea levels, river levees and natural wetlands long ago carved up by logging and the fossil fuel industry.

“Our problems are tremendous here, and putting more sand into our coastal wetlands is not going to solve all of our problems,” he said.

He also said that while using dredged material works for restoring small targeted sites, a focus of Glass Half Full’s work, it’s expensive, not sustainable for rebuilding land and does not last. Effective land restoration has to include reconnecting the river to wetlands, he said, an effort currently underway.

In an email Ms. Trautmann said the company didn’t view its product as a panacea but rather “one small part of the solution to solving our coastal erosion crisis.”

She noted that the glass they recycled would otherwise end up in the landfill and that, crucially, the company was getting local residents to help struggling wetlands.

“The more people we can get involved and passionate about this topic,” she said, “the better off we will be.”

Cara Buckley is a reporter on the climate team at The Times who focuses on people working toward climate solutions. More about Cara Buckley

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18 of the best hotels in New Orleans

From boutique stays near bourbon street to the grandes dames of the garden district, we highlight some of the very best places to stay in new orleans.

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S et on the curve of the Mississippi River, the Crescent City is unlike any other place in the world. From its origins as a swampy, mosquito-and-alligator-ridden French-Canadian settlement on the Gulf of Mexico, New Orleans was shaped by waves of immigration as it quickly developed into a major port.

The heart of this social melange is the French Quarter, and today it’s the place for historic sights and party nights. The Marigny neighbourhood continually hops to the syncopated beat of live jazz, while the tree-lined Garden District displays Victorian grandeur. And in the centre of it all is the Central Business District — a great hub for exploration, where you’ll find most of the city’s big-name hotels.

From intimate uptown guesthouses to luxury hotels in the arty Warehouse District, boutique lodgings around Bourbon Street and swanky stays in the Central Business District, these are the best hotels in New Orleans.

This article contains affiliate links which may earn us revenue

Main photo: Four Seasons Hotel New Orleans (Photo courtesy New Orleans Convention and Visitors Bureau)

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The Eliza Jane

1. The Eliza Jane, Central Business District

Best for location A short stroll from both the riotous French Quarter and New Orleans ’ hip Arts District, the Eliza Jane is a spacious 196-room and 50-suite hotel inspired by the history of the 19th-century warehouse in which it was created. The building at one time housed a local newspaper, owned by its namesake, Eliza Jane. Exposed beams and inky blue walls echo this part of its history, as does the bar — aptly named the Press Room — but the rest of the decor is more art deco. Dark velvets, brass and plants in varying shades of forest green bring it all up to date.

High ceilings and baths in some of the rooms make the whole place feel decadent, but the highlight is definitely the sun-trap courtyard that doubles as a restaurant, bar and co-working space.

Spa N Pool N Price £££

Hyatt Centric French Quarter

2. Hyatt Centric French Quarter

Best for choice of rooms Hyatt Centric French Quarter is a sprawling property repurposed from seven separate buildings that once formed the DH Holmes department store. Fresh from a renovation that finished in February 2023, the decor has been updated with geometric patterns and bold shades of dark green and burgundy, and subtle nods to its retail history, such as mannequins in one of the suites.

Despite its size, there are just 254 rooms, meaning the hotel is one of the most spacious places to stay in the French Quarter. There are also two hidden courtyards, one offering respite from the noise of the neighbourhood and the other a year-round outdoor pool.

Spa N Pool Y Price £££

Maison de la Luz (Photo courtesy New Orleans Convention and Visitors Bureau)

3. Maison de la Luz, Central Business District

Best for well-heeled hipsters Just five blocks or a quick streetcar ride from the French Quarter, this 67-room, design-led property combines beaux arts grandeur with audacious whimsy. Spacious, stripped-back, classical rooms are accented with bold pops of colour while metal serpents act as shower door handles. Public spaces are both grand and inviting, decorated in sumptuous dark hues and littered with intriguing objets d’art and mid-century knick-knacks. The feel is kept informal by tongue-in-cheek design flourishes, such as zebra-print floors topped with cartoonish tiger rugs.

You won’t find a spa or pool here but guests are welcome to use the facilities at Maison de la Luz’s sister property next door, the Ace Hotel.

Four Seasons Hotel New Orleans (Photo courtesy New Orleans Convention and Visitors Bureau)

4. Four Seasons Hotel New Orleans, Central Business District

Best for a room with a view At the foot of Canal Street, with views across the curve of the mighty Mississippi, the Four Seasons New Orleans is in the city’s former 34-storey World Trade Center, which has been converted into a luxurious mixed-use development.

Housing 341 guest rooms, this modernist riverfront masterpiece was designed by Edward Durell Stone, the man behind the Museum of Modern Art in New York. Expect impeccable service typical of the Four Seasons brand: sleek, marbled communal areas; bright, modern rooms; an inner-city resort feel, thanks to its location, landscaping and fifth-floor rooftop pool; and some of the best views in New Orleans from its rooms and observation deck.

Spa Y Pool Y Price £££

Higgins Hotel & Conference Center (Photo courtesy New Orleans Convention and Visitors Bureau/Higgins Hotel NOLA)

5. Higgins Hotel, Central Business District

Best for the wartime history museum Located right on the campus of the National World War II Museum — one of the finest Second World War museums in the world — the 230-room Higgins works closely with the museum so guests can enjoy seamless access, combined admission and accommodation rates, and behind-the-scenes museum packages. Within, the Higgins is slick and stylish, and communal areas, such as the bar and the rooftop restaurant, are accented with plenty of vintage designs, wartime memorabilia and a 1940s soundtrack.

6. Hotel Peter and Paul, Marigny

Best for jazz lovers One of the few hotels in New Orleans’ Marigny neighbourhood, Hotel Peter and Paul is a great stay for visitors wanting to explore the hip jazz clubs, arts markets and late-night bites on nearby Frenchmen Street.

A converted church and adjoining convent, rectory and school house, the 71-room Hotel Peter and Paul retains many of its original features — particularly in the church section of the property — while the crisp, clean, country-style rooms are each a little different, and decorated in gingham. The hotel’s Elysian Bar is a Marigny destination in its own right, and a great place for a cocktail against the backdrop of its striking interior that marries Hollywood regency with a playful tiki bar vibe.

Hotel Monteleone (Photo courtesy New Orleans Convention and Visitors Bureau)

7. Hotel Monteleone, French Quarter

Best for high-class high spirits The independently owned Hotel Monteleone is the grande dame of Royal Street, and has radiated a majestic presence across the French Quarter since 1886. This lavish, Italianate property has glamorous communal areas, especially its Carousel Bar, which is centred on an antique merry-go-round from where mixologists shake cocktails guaranteed to make your head spin.

Rooms are varied and can be a little on the chintzy side, and the hotel makes no secret of the fact that its hallways are reputedly the site of numerous paranormal phenomena — as befits a 19th-century property in a city populated by voodoo queens and vampires.

In truth, the Monteleone has long been a haunt for literary figures, with Ernest Hemingway, Tennessee Williams and William Faulkner all frequently making this their Big Easy address. Although it was mere fiction, Truman Capote — whose mother lived at the historic hotel during her pregnancy — would brag that he was born in the Monteleone.

One11 Hotel (Photo courtesy New Orleans Convention and Visitors Bureau/One11 Hotel)

8. One11 Hotel, French Quarter

Best for light sleepers and sightseers Located on Iberville Street — just four blocks from the bacchanalian revelry of Bourbon Street — the chic, 83-room One11 opened in December 2020, making it the first hotel to open in the French Quarter in more than 50 years. Occupying a Goldilocks sweet spot — close to the fun, but far away enough to get a good night’s sleep — this slick property marries old-world industrial design with contemporary fittings and furnishings. Its rooftop terrace provides panoramic views of both the French Quarter and the Mississippi.

The Ritz-Carlton, New Orleans (Photo courtesy New Orleans Convention and Visitors Bureau)

9. The Ritz-Carlton, New Orleans, French Quarter

Best for Southern comfort Housed within a former department store, taking up an entire city block, the imposing Ritz-Carlton is ideally located for exploring both the French Quarter and the Central Business District, while the historic streetcar runs right by its door. You get what you expect from the Ritz-Carlton: a traditional, European take on luxurious lodgings, with a destination spa, four-poster beds — and the obligatory afternoon tea service.

Its M Bistro restaurant dishes up high-class takes on Southern staples, such as shrimp, grits and bouillabaisse, and the Davenport Lounge serves cocktails to the sounds of live jazz.

Virgin Hotels New Orleans (Photo courtesy New Orleans Convention and Visitors Bureau)

10. Virgin Hotels New Orleans, Warehouse District

Best for offbeat suites Richard Branson brings another branch of his funky lifestyle brand to Nola’s arty Warehouse District. Aimed squarely at affluent millennials, the hotel has electric guitars hanging above the reception desk, while decor is an eclectic mix of refined regency, Deep South soul, pop-star pop art, 1980s fixtures and furnishings, and self-conscious, tongue-in-cheek colonial creaks.

Positioning itself as a party pad and a base for road trips, the 238-room hotel is keen to attract locals and tourists alike, eschewing Big Easy clichés in favour of international ambience. Expect a rooftop pool, quirky themed nights and special events, big discounts for Louisiana locals and pet-friendly accommodation allowing breeds of all sizes to stay for free.

Kimpton Hotel Fontenot (Photo courtesy New Orleans Convention and Visitors Bureau)

11. Kimpton Hotel Fontenot, Central Business District

Best for live entertainment A 202-room Kimpton property located in the Central Business District doesn’t sound like the kind of character accommodation worth shouting about, but Kimpton Hotel Fontenot is very much a design-led, boutique property by a major hotel chain. Paying homage to the rich musical history of the Big Easy, Kimpton Hotel Fontenot keeps a calendar packed with live bands, poetry slams, stand-up comedy and art events across its social spaces.

The flamboyant Peacock Room is its crown jewel, with a contemporary selection of rare spirits and a menu full of refined regional dishes and boozy desserts served against the backdrop of its hip, peacock-blue interior, complete with irreverent objets d’art, including a stuffed albino peacock that watches over proceedings.

The Roosevelt New Orleans, a Waldorf Astoria Hotel (Photo courtesy New Orleans Convention and Visitors Bureau)

12. The Roosevelt New Orleans, a Waldorf Astoria Hotel, Central Business District

Best for history Taking up an entire city block in the Central Business District, but located just over the road from the French Quarter, the historic Roosevelt hotel has been a local landmark since the turn of the 20th century. Louis Armstrong, Ray Charles, Marilyn Monroe, Frank Sinatra, Audrey Hepburn, Judy Garland and Ginger Rogers have all come to the Roosevelt to stay and play.

Meticulously renovated in 2009, the Roosevelt remains a beacon of Louisiana’s hotel scene, with an art deco pool and sun lounge, a beaux arts lobby, an opulent spa, a rooftop pool and the delightfully decadent Sazarac Bar.

Windsor Court Hotel (Photo courtesy New Orleans Convention and Visitors Bureau)

13. Windsor Court Hotel, Central Business District

Best for the suite life The Windsor Court Hotel lives up to its name’s associations with British royalty. Come to find it stuffed with plump Chesterfield sofas, carriage clocks, genuine 17th-century portraits and landscapes, French classical interiors, and a country club vibe that contrasts with the hubbub of the Central Business District and nearby casino.

The Windsor seems frightfully refined when compared to the Big Easy’s generally laid-back lifestyle, with afternoon teas, white-gloved waiters, chintzy fabrics, and rooms so huge that each one is the size of a suite elsewhere in the city.

It’s a home away from home for Brits, but when you want to reconnect to the city, simply head up to the heated, saltwater, rooftop pool to take in glorious views of the city and the Mississippi.

The Ace Hotel (Photo courtesy New Orleans Convention and Visitors Bureau/Rush Jagoe)

14. Ace Hotel, Warehouse District

Best for a boho getaway Where else would the self-consciously cool Ace Hotel brand open its New Orleans branch other than the arty Warehouse District, surrounded by galleries and cafés? Just a short stroll from the fun of the French Quarter, but far enough for guests to affect a considered apathy, the Ace Hotel New Orleans is hip, with public areas a haven of grand, mid-century masculinity.

Accommodation itself is sparse and stylish, offering Smeg refrigerators, record turntables, acoustic guitars and a certain 1940s Edward Hopper aesthetic that sees light bounce off black tiles, linoleum floors and leather furniture, making rooms feel like an upscale Beat Generation boarding house.

The Frenchmen Hotel

15. The Frenchmen Hotel, Marigny

Best for 24-hour party people This pad was built on a corner at the foot of Frenchmen Street in 1860. It’s a local institution in the lively, jazz and absinthe-soaked Marigny neighbourhood, which is full of creole charm. Compact rooms are decked out with hardwood floors, brick fireplaces and handmade glazed tiles. Situated amid some of the city’s best live music venues and just a few blocks from the buzzing French Quarter, it’s perfectly located for making the most of your time in the Big Easy — with a rooftop cocktail bar, a heated courtyard pool and party vibes aplenty.

Mint House New Orleans Riverside

16. Mint House New Orleans, Riverside

Best for a home away from home Inhabiting an unusual space in the accommodation market, Mint House provides an experience somewhere between a hotel and an Airbnb, aiming to combine the standards of the former with the comfort of the latter.

Mint House New Orleans Riverside is just a few minutes’ stroll from the French Quarter, so it’s great for new visitors to the city. It’s easy to feel at home in the 15 one to three-bedroom apartments housed in a converted warehouse building and the decor is all hip exposed brick, whitewashed walls, and stainless steel kitchens. There’s no check-in desk and no keycards, and guests can order groceries in advance and find them stocked in the kitchen on arrival. Service and local tips are offered via text message by the 24/7 digital concierge service.

The Chloe (Photo courtesy New Orleans Convention and Visitors Bureau)

17. The Chloe, Uptown

Best for living like a local Intimate and inviting, the Chloe is a boutique property on swanky St Charles Avenue, with just 14 unique rooms in the upscale, Uptown residential neighbourhood that’s rarely visited by tourists. A converted 19th-century family home, the Chloe has been thoughtfully restored to its former glory, retaining many of its original fixtures and fittings, with 13-foot ceilings and original fireplaces. As a suburban outpost of New Orleans hospitality brand, LeBlanc+Smith, the bar and restaurant are neighbourhood favourites, with locals coming to see and be seen in the property’s buzzing front and back gardens and airy dining room. Make it your home away from home in between sightseeing trips, or spend your days sipping frozen margaritas around its secluded pool.

thechloenola.com

Hotel Saint Vincent

18. Hotel Saint Vincent, Garden District

Best for Southern sophistication Hotel Saint Vincent opened in June 2021, although the building itself has a much longer history. It was founded by local philanthropist Margaret Haughery in 1861 as an orphanage for children who had lost their parents to the Civil War and epidemics. Today, the 75-room hotel honours the property’s storied past as Saint Vincent’s Infant Asylum and combines a meticulously considered restoration with modern, funky design that doesn’t overwhelm the property’s historic character.

Surrounded by Italianate mansions and Greek revivalist houses, the Garden District is known for its grand, oak tree-lined streets and Victorian-era architecture, offering respite from the revelry of the French Quarter and the bustle of the Central Business District, while still being within strolling distance of the action.

saintvincentnola.com

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48 hours in New Orleans

Amy C. Balfour

Jun 19, 2019 • 5 min read

nytimes travel new orleans

The picturesque oak lined pathway to New Orleans' historic Oak Alley Plantation.

Arriving in New Orleans for a weekend can seem like turning up to a party in a time-warp. Folks sip cocktails on colonial-era balconies and restaurants thrum with buzzy gossip just like they have done since the 19th century.

But this vibrant city is not stuck in the past. New cocktail bars, inventive eateries and live music joints are turning once gritty neighborhoods into trendy hangouts. Innovative art spaces remain up-to-the-minute. And top-quality museums continue to evolve.

Oak trees line a red brick pathway to the New Orleans historic Oak Alley Plantation. A weekend in New Orleans can be filled with historic and lively entertainment.

New Orleans isn’t an early riser, so ease into the day at Croissant D’or Patisserie , a lovely Victorian-styled place with crisp white linens. Or, for more urban hustle and bustle, grab your coffee and powdery beignet at iconic Café du Monde  besides Jackson Square.

Next up? A two-hour walking tour of the French Quarter, the oldest neighborhood in the city, with the Friends of the Cabildo . Guides delve into architectural highlights, French Quarter history, and stories of noteworthy locals.

A cramped but loveable den of mayhem, Coop’s Place  is where fifth-generation New Orleanians dine on rabbit jambalaya and hearty Cajun specialties. Tradition never tasted so good. A four-block stroll leads to Jackson Square , the bustling heart of the neighborhood, if not the city. Learn your fortune, admire the eclectic artwork, and drop a dollar in the fiddle case of your favorite busker.

The history of New Orleans is told in grand style inside the Spanish colonial  Cabildo , the seat of government for the Spanish settlement here in the late 1700s. The view of Jackson Square from the big-windowed Sala Capitular (Capitol Room) is impressive, as is the history of the room: the Louisiana Purchase was formalized here in 1803.

The striking St Louis Cathedral , dedicated in 1794, separates the Cabildo from its twin, the 1791 Presbytere . Pop into the latter for an interactive look at the background to Mardi Gras and the ongoing impacts of Hurricane Katrina.

Cast-iron balconies overlook Royal Street , where Creole townhouses are packed tight with antique shops, art galleries and restaurants with hidden courtyards. For something a bit more quirky, find the perfect Mardi Gras wig in fun-loving Fifi Mahoney’s . Or step off Royal Street to peruse costumes for your pet at Chiwawagaga  or check out fashionable cork-made travel bags at Queork .

A lighted lantern hangs next to a light wooden sign and exposed red brick at the historic Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop, a famous bar that has been around since the 1700s. There's no shortage of activities for a lively New Orleans weekend.

Stroll upriver on Royal Street to Hotel Monteleone and take a seat at the circular Carousel Bar . Sazeracs are a specialty at this 25-seat revolving bar, adorned with white lights and gilded mirrors.

Still getting rave reviews after 25 years, Bayona is a place to celebrate. At this ever-evolving hotspot chef Susan Spicer works her culinary magic – on poultry, game, Gulf seafood and local produce – with artistic flair and global inspirations. For something a little more casual, Sylvain  is a stylish gastropub winning praise for its simple but elegant Southern fare.

And no, we haven’t forgotten Bourbon Street. With its neon cocktails and rowdy hordes, this storied street is worth a look, but tourists fill the sidewalks here, not locals. Beyond Bourbon Street, sip classic elixirs at cozily hip Tonique , a neighborhood cocktail bar. Or party like it’s 1799 at Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop , housed in a red-brick cottage dating to the mid-1700s. End with tubas and trombones played by jazz masters at famed Preservation Hall  or catch alternative bands at One Eyed Jacks .

People board an olive green antique streetcar at St. Charles Line Route 12 on Canal Street in downtown New Orleans. The streetcar is the perfect way to get around during a New Orleans weekend.

The St Charles Avenue Streetcar rumbles between the buttoned-up Central Business District and the posh-again Warehouse District. Here, the immersive National World War II Museum drops visitors into the action with life-sized photos from the battlefield, first-person oral histories and an array of fascinating artifacts, including a German Enigma machine.

Around the corner, Southern artists and Louisiana landscapes take the spotlight in the Ogden Museum of Southern Art . For a personal splurge, check out the art galleries and specialty shops lining Julia Street. For a quick bite, culinary masterpieces await at Cochon Butcher , home to chef Donald Link’s simple but sublime bacon melts, cubanos and muffalettas. Or hold out for a messy po’boy in the Garden District.

From Lee Circle, it’s a quick trip on the streetcar to the leafy charms of the Garden District. For a po’boy, walk five blocks from St Charles Avenue on Washington Street to Magazine Street, which bustles with boutiques and specialty shops. Sitting just one block apart are lively Tracey’s and homey Parasol’s . Their dueling roast beef po’boys share a few key adjectives: delicious, hearty and easy-on-the-budget.

Between St Charles Avenue and Magazine Street, the Garden District’s buckling sidewalks unfurl in the shadows of live oak trees, intricate fences, and grand columned mansions which were built by newly arrived Americans in the 1800s. Weathered and slightly eerie, Lafayette Cemetery No 1 is a Southern gothic island of family tombs and long-forgotten stories. Across the street, dapper Commander’s Palace  offers a wink and a drink for the living – who usually dress up for the occasion. Stop by for tasty Creole cuisine and, on weekdays, 0.25¢ lunchtime martinis.

Shelves of bottles are illuminated by vintage lamps in the dark. There are glasses and other mix-drink instruments on the wooden bar. Cocktails can easily play a big role during a New Orleans weekend.

Freret Street is one of the city’s biggest post-Katrina success stories. This bustling eight-block strip in Uptown was in a state of decline for decades. But the 2009 opening of Cure , an upscale cocktail bar, kick-started a speedy revitalization, with most new enterprises landing between Soniat St and Napolean Ave.

Today, more than 15 new restaurants, bars and music venues lure stylish evening crowds. Gourmet hotdogs sate the young and hungry at Dat Dog while deep-dish pizzas are the draw at Midway Pizza . The two-patty burgers at Company Burger put napkins to the test.

Still kicking? Quaff a cocktail at Wayfare , a former takeout spot that now offers creative cocktails (try the Porkbelly Old Fashioned) and fantastic dishes or see who’s playing at the eclectic Gasa Gasa gallery .

And no visit to New Orleans is complete without a drink at a homegrown dive bar. We recommend the legendary confines of Snake & Jakes . This oversized shed – tarted out year-round in Christmas lights – is a beloved trouble-whisperer. Arriving before midnight is too early.

Last updated in June 2019.

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New Orleans Travel Guide

Since 1971, Travel + Leisure editors have followed one mission: to inform, inspire, and guide travelers to have deeper, more meaningful experiences. T+L's editors have traveled to countries all over the world, having flown, sailed, road tripped, and taken the train countless miles. They've visited small towns and big cities, hidden gems and popular destinations, beaches and mountains, and everything in between. With a breadth of knowledge about destinations around the globe, air travel, cruises, hotels, food and drinks, outdoor adventure, and more, they are able to take their real-world experience and provide readers with tried-and-tested trip ideas, in-depth intel, and inspiration at every point of a journey.

Erik Pronske Photography/Getty Images

New Orleans is an over-the-top experience for the senses, a city filled with vibrantly colored streets, soul-filled rhythm and blues, and memorable flavors. The coastal Louisiana enclave is the culinary heart of creole and cajun food, and beyond delicacies from gumbo to shrimp and grits, it's the city that brought us the muffuletta, beignets, and char-broiled oysters.

Nicknamed "The Big Easy," it's a town of jazz kings and queens, iconic architecture, the New Orleans Saints, and perhaps the most spirited street in America — Bourbon Street. It's also one of the only cities in America where you can legally drink on the street, which only adds to the lively nature of NOLA nightlife.

Comedian and actor Hannibal Burress famously said of the Big Easy that "for $300 you can have your own parade on a day's notice," and if that doesn't beautifully encapsulate the glory of New Orleans in one sentence, we don't know what does. Not surprisingly, the motto of New Orleans is " Laissez les bon temps rouler ," or "Let the good times roll."

Louisiana is divided into parishes rather than counties like the other states, and greater New Orleans spans eight parishes. New Orleans is one of the top 10 cities in the United States for the number of annual visitors. And it's important to remember that category five Hurricane Katrina hit New Orleans in August 2005, flooding 80 percent of the city, which is still rebuilding from the devastation.

For legendary New Orleans jazz — the city is known as the birthplace of jazz, and legendary musician, Louis Armstrong was born in the city — the best restaurants in New Orleans, and every other must-try activity, including tours of the bayou and ghost tours of the city's most haunted streets, consult this guide. We've mapped out exactly what to do in New Orleans to experience this renowned city of celebration and resilience.

Best Hotels and Resorts

Maison de la luz.

A favorite of luxury travelers, Maison de la Luz is a gorgeously decorated hotel known for its idyllic guest house. The hotel has 67 suites, including over-the-top rooms like the Grand Studio suite, which can be joined with a one-bedroom suite to accommodate larger groups. If you're looking to book a room in one of the best hotels in New Orleans , this is definitely a must-stay.

Hotel Peter and Paul

Once a church, rectory, schoolhouse, and convent, Hotel Peter and Paul has refurbished the former religious institution into a memorable boutique hotel.The schoolhouse has 59 rooms and the reception area; the convent has seven rooms and the Sundae Best Ice Cream shop; and the rectory features a brick-lined courtyard, on-site restaurant, and the last five rooms.

The Roosevelt New Orleans

Home to the Sazerac Restaurant, an outdoor pool, a rooftop bar, Waldorf Astoria spa, and polished guest rooms and suites, the historic Roosevelt New Orleans offers an opulent experience.

The Ritz-Carlton, New Orleans

Set in the heart of the French Quarter on famed Canal Street, guests can listen to live jazz at the Davenport Lounge, marvel at the authentic Beaux Arts architecture of the 1908 building, indulge in the spa's VooDoo ritual, and dine at on-site M Bistro.

Melrose Mansion

This luxury boutique offers 14 rooms and suites, each with unique design, in the historic Faubourg Marigny neighborhood within walking distance to attractions like the French Market, Cafe du Monde, and Jackson Square.

Best Things to Do

French market.

French Market is a popular open-air market and food hall in New Orleans. The space has permanent food stalls serving local  étouffée,  char-broiled oysters, crawfish, and more. Culinary demonstrations and cultural events are held there as well.

New Orleans Kayak Swamp Tours

New Orleans Kayak Swamp Tours offers a range of excursions, including a tour of Manchac Swamp, an extended bayou tour along Shell Bank, and an introduction to the scenic Honey Island Swamp. The discovery experiences are educational, ecological, and cultural.

Preservation Hall

Honorable Mention: Frenchmen Street is one of the best streets for live music in New Orleans, and the Blue Nile is one of the best spots. Catch jazz, funk, blues, and brass bands at Blue Nile, and you'll immediately be swept up in the Frenchmen Street atmosphere.

New Orleans Ghost Adventures Tour

Much of New Orleans folklore is rooted in the city being more than a little bit haunted. As such, ghost tours are quite popular in the French Quarter. Summon spirits from the beyond with a New Orleans Ghost Adventures Tour. They offer a selection of tours, including voodoo and cemetery tours, haunted pub crawls, and ghost tours of the Garden District.

Page Light Studios/Getty Images

National WWII Museum

The museum's exhibits cover "the war that changed the world" through exhibits that focus on world leaders, events, and the war's courageous men and women. Stay on the Museum's campus at the  Higgins Hotel and Conference Center , an art-deco-style property offering first-class accommodations.

Read More : 25 Best Things to Do in New Orleans, From Streetcar Rides to Bar Crawls

Best Shopping

Shops at the colonnade.

Next to French Market, the open-air food hall, you'll find great shopping at the Shops at the Colonnade. After lunch at the market, dip into the Shops at the Colonnade to find souvenir vendors and local boutiques.

Piety & Desire Chocolate

Be sure to visit Piety & Desire Chocolate for a box of gorgeous  chocolats  to take home as a souvenir. (or enjoy while you're in NOLA)

Louisiana Music Factory

Stop in at Louisiana Music Factory where you'll find an inspiring number of records (across every genre, but with an emphasis on soul) as well as CDs, sheet music, posters, books, tee shirts, and hats.

St. James Cheese Company

A local favorite in New Orleans, St. James Cheese Company has an extensive, high-end array of  fromage . Visit St. James at either their uptown or Warehouse District venues for a few artisanal goods—and grab a sandwich to go while you're there.

Billy Reid is a prominent Southern clothing designer, so why not duck into the branch on Magazine Street and outfit yourself like a Southern lady or gentleman? Their style has an air of Southern class with a modernized, street-style finish.

Best Restaurants

New Orleans is a food lover's paradise with many must-try dishes and delicacies. The official cocktail of New Orleans is the Sazerac which was created in a French Quarter bar. Those visiting should try Creole and Cajun food. Some iconic dishes from New Orleans include gumbo, shrimp and grits, muffuletta, beignets, char-broiled oysters, and po' boys.

Commander's Palace

World-class chefs like Emeril Lagasse and Paul Prudhomme have graced the kitchen of this landmark restaurant. In existence since 1893, Commander's Palace features "haute Creole cuisine" and a "dirt to plate within 100 miles" policy that contributes to its legendary status as one of the city's great dining establishments.

Herd Dat Kitchen

This Black-owned eatery is a no-frills spot with (limited) outdoor seating. Though, we recommend ordering for pickup or through an app to enjoy on a night in. First-time visitors at Herd Dat Kitchen should try the Superdome: blackened fish topped with mashed potatoes garnished generously with lobster cream sauce, corn, and crispy onion rings.

Susmita Baral / Travel + Leisure

Elizabeth Street Cafe

This neighborhood Vietnamese cafe and French bakery TK.

Loretta's Authentic Praline

Cafe du Monde and Cafe Beignet get a lot of recognition (rightfully so!) for their beignets but Loretta's Authentic Praline elevates the offerings. The praline beignets are decadent and the Rampart Street location offers savory varieties like crab meat beignets and breakfast versions.

Susmita Baral/Travel + Leisure

Toup's Meatery

With signature Meatery Boards and his meat-focused entrées that range from lamb to venison, chef Isaac Toup manages to blend fine dining with the casualness of charcuterie and wine. As Toups approaches its 10-year anniversary, Toup continues to branch out, releasing two new hot sauce flavors to go along with his 2018 cookbook  Chasing the Gator .

Courtesy of Toup's Meatery

Best Time to Visit

New Orleans is a great city to visit in the winter and spring, whereas the heat, high humidity, and threat of hurricanes make the summer and fall less enticing. June through August can be rainy. Hurricane season is from June through November.

Some visitors plan a trip around Mardi Gras (or Fat Tuesday), which typically falls in February. (If you want to experience Mardi Gras, be sure to book well ahead of time and be ready for hotel rates to be higher than at other times of the year. Also, many popular sightseeing attractions are closed during Mardi Gras.) Others stay away from the crowds and high price tags associated with the festivities of the biggest event of the year.

The New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival and New Orleans Wine & Food Experience are popular events that attract visitors.

Read More: Best Time to Visit New Orleans for Great Weather and Fewer Crowds

Mariah Tyler/Travel + Leisure

Neighborhoods to Know

French Quarter: Between the Central Business District and the Marigny, the French Quarter is where you'll find some of the best restaurants and nightlife in New Orleans. One of New Orleans' most historic neighborhoods, the Quarter is where you'll find the delightful French Market and, of course, lavish homes with the quintessential decorative facades.

Marigny: From gorgeous historic buildings to under-the-radar jazz clubs and inviting local shops, the Marigny is a lovely place to spend time when visiting New Orleans. Adjacent to the French Quarter, it's an easy walk to find the artistic heart of New Orleans. Come for the preserved architecture, and stay for the Frenchmen Palace Market.

Garden District: South of the French Quarter and Marigny area and slightly farther inland, you'll find NOLA's Garden District, home to Commander's Palace and lush, oak tree-lined streets. In this neighborhood, which dates back to the 19th century, you'll find opulent mansions that exude Southern charm and old-world design.

Bywater: Boho-chic New Orleans neighborhood, Bywater, sits on the Mississippi River, bordering the Marigny. It's slightly quieter than the Marigny and significantly quieter than the French Quarter but packs an arts and culture punch. You'll find NOLA's best galleries and vintage shopping in Bywater.

Central Business District: Also thought of as New Orleans' downtown, the Central Business District (CBD) is centrally located, roughly equidistant to the Marigny and the Garden District. New Orleans' business district is bustling seven days of the week and is home to some of the city's most renowned restaurants and high-end hotels.

Treme: Bordering the French Quarter, this area was founded in the 18th century, and is known for African American history, authentic Creole food, parades, jazz funerals, and the Backstreet Cultural Museum.

How to Get Around

The New Orleans Transit Authority operates four streetcar lines: the St. Charles line, the Canal Street line, the Riverfront line, and the Rampart line. Plan ahead using the map and have your exact fare ready as they do not give change. ($1.25 one way) They also offer a Jazzy Pass which can be purchased online.

Taking a streetcar is part of the fun as well as convenient transportation. The historic vehicles are part of New Orleans' history.

Buses: There are 40 different RTA bus routes that run across the city of New Orleans. A one-way ticket costs $1.25, and a $3 all-day Jazzy Pass gets you unlimited rides for 24 hours.

Ferries: RTA Ferries transport travelers to Algiers for $2 per ride and are commonly referred to as "water taxis."

Address: 2727 S Broad Avenue New Orleans, LA 70125 Phone: (504) 799-1709 Website

Be sure to visit Piety & Desire Chocolate for a box of gorgeous chocolats to take home as a souvenir. (or enjoy while you're in NOLA)

Address: Multiple locations Website

A local favorite in New Orleans, St. James Cheese Company has an extensive, high-end array of fromage . Visit St. James at either their uptown or Warehouse District venues for a few artisanal goods—and grab a sandwich to go while you're there.

The perfect 4 days in New Orleans

Horse-drawn carriages lined against entrance to Jackson Square. with St. Louis Cathedral behind it

Whether you’re going to New Orleans to peek at antebellum mansions or check out the action of Bourbon Street, there’s a lot you can fit into four days. This itinerary balances the must-sees (Jackson Square, Magazine Street) and must-eats (gumbo, muffaletta) with off-the-beaten-path discoveries like a Christmas-themed dive bar. We even include a quick day trip to the Louisiana Wetlands for the chance to spot alligators.

Back in the city, you’ll be able to soak in all the top sights and sounds, from brass-band performances on Frenchmen Street to the oak-shaded streets of the Garden District. Because every stop is based on real Tripadvisor reviews and ratings, you can trust you’re getting on-the-ground intel.

People looking up at building featuring wrought-iron balconies with Mardi Gras decor

MORNING: Wander through the French Quarter

Ask a local where to get the best beignet, and you'll probably hear a bunch of different answers. But the iconic Cafe Du Monde gets our vote, particularly the original location in the French Market , which sits along historic Jackson Square . It’s been there for over 160 years and still serves just one food: beignets.

The 24-hour stand can get pretty crowded, but it’s one of the only places where you can have a piping-hot beignet and café au lait while watching portrait artists, tarot card readers, and acrobatic tumblers.

Once caffeinated and sugared up, wind through the streets of the French Quarter (Vieux Carré to locals), checking out its Creole townhouses, wrought-iron balconies, and hanging gardens. Be sure to venture off the main drags, but don’t miss Royal and Chartres Streets , which are known for their art galleries and antique shops. This is also a good time to check out Bourbon Street if you want to see it minus the crowds.

FRENCH QUARTER TOUR OPTIONS:

  • The only way to visit New Orleans’ most famous—and haunted—cemetery is with a tour . (Technically, St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 lies just outside the French Quarter, but many of the neighborhood’s most infamous residents, like voodoo queen Marie Laveau, are buried there.)
  • With its lax liquor laws, the city is best explored with a drink in hand. Drink & Learn’s Cocktail Tour keeps the cocktails flowing while you visit Jackson Square, the Pharmacy Museum, and other Quarter landmarks.
  • Learn about NOLA’s scandalous side with the fun and entertaining Saints and Sinners walking tour , which makes stops at places like Hotel Villa Convento and St. Louis Cathedral.

AFTERNOON: Soul food, sculptures, and second lines

Hungry? Head north into Tremé , the oldest African-American neighborhood in the U.S., walking past candy-colored cottages and shotgun houses to Creole-soul institution Dooky Chase . Late owner Leah Chase, a.k.a. the queen of Creole cooking, passed away several years ago, but her sought-after recipes for gumbo and fried chicken live on.

If you’re lucky, you might catch a second line as you’re leaving lunch. The brass band-led parades pop up often in Tremé (usually for weddings and funerals, but other times just because). You can’t miss ‘em: The brightly dressed participants all sing, dance, and wave handkerchiefs as they march through the streets. Feel free to join in—that’s part of the fun.

Next up, head to The Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden , just a short streetcar ride away. Situated in lush, sprawling City Park , this garden is free (even the audio guide) and can be a nice break from the congestion of the Quarter. Pro tip: There’s a second Cafe Du Monde location just around the corner, in case you haven’t had your beignet fix yet—or you need another dose of powdered sugar.

Travelers say: “You cannot afford to miss out on seeing this area of City Park. Get the Canal streetcar up from the French Quarter—it’s only $1.25 each way. These gardens are beautiful; all the sculptures are so different. It’s just a pleasure to walk around this garden area. Afterwards, pop into the Café Du Monde for the famous coffee and beignets, without the long lines like on Canal Street.” —@ 363cymru123

EVENING: Dinner in an old rectory followed by Dixieland jazz

Plan on getting to the Marigny —the artsy neighborhood that borders the French Quarter—before dark so you can see some of the large-scale murals that blanket its buildings. Then, stroll over to The Elysian Bar , a buzzy hotel restaurant in a former rectory. Instead of one big dining room, it’s made up of smaller nooks, like a homey parlor decked out in gingham and a cozy midcentury bar. (There’s also a lovely courtyard if the weather is nice.)

The decor isn’t the only thing that makes this place a destination. The ever-changing menu of small-to-medium plates (crab and ricotta gnocchi, crispy pork belly) and cocktails (the house spritz is a crowd fave) is worth the trip alone.

Close out the night on lively Frenchmen Street , where divey jazz clubs host both legendary and up-and-coming musicians. Pop in and out of Snug Harbor , d.b.a. , and The Spotted Cat —or do as the locals do and hang in the street. Frenchmen is a party in itself, filled with street poets, craft markets, and spontaneous concerts.

Worthy detours along the way

nytimes travel new orleans

MORNING: A streetcar ride through antebellum mansions

Climb aboard the vintage St. Charles Streetcar for a ride through the Garden District ’s palatial mansions and live oak-lined streets. There’s a lot to see, so consider buying a one-day Jazzy Pass, which will allow you to hop on and off for a single price.

Highlights include Buckner Mansion, which starred as a boarding school for witches in American Horror Story ; the Carroll-Crawford House, where Mark Twain often partied; and the Brevard-Clapp-Rice House , the former home of Gothic novelist Anne Rice.

If you have extra time, take the full trip out to Audubon Park . Behind the zoo, you’ll find a green space known as The Fly , where you can rest your feet while watching the boats on the Mississippi River.

GARDEN DISTRICT TOUR OPTIONS

  • Sure, you could Google every beautiful home you come across, but we suggest taking a walking tour to get the real backstory on the neighborhood’s most colorful residents.
  • Seeing the Garden District by bik e is a great way to cover a lot of ground in a short amount of time.
  • The Homes of the Rich and Famous Tour mixes history and celeb gossip for a fun look at one of New Orleans’ most-filmed neighborhoods.

AFTERNOON: Southern sandwiches and a stroll down Magazine Street

For lunch, get off at the Jackson Avenue stop and walk a few blocks southeast to Turkey and the Wolf . Their fried bologna sandwich gives New Orleans’ other iconic sandwich—the po’boy—a run for its money. That said, everything on the menu (divided into “Sandwiches” and “Not Sandwiches”) is worth trying, especially the collard green melt and deviled eggs.

Afterward, stretch your legs on charming Magazine Street , stopping off at Sucre for king cake, Mignon Faget for jewelry, Home Malone for Southern-made gifts, and Octavia Books for indie titles. Or gallery-hop your way through the six-mile stretch. You’ll find everything from pop-culture portraits to abstract wildlife paintings.

EVENING: From craft cocktails to a Christmas-themed dive bar

Make your way north—you’ve earned a cab ride at this point—to Cure . Once an old firehouse, this exposed-brick bar was ground zero for New Orleans’ craft cocktail scene (which is saying a lot in a city overrun with famous cocktails). The menu changes often, but you’ll always find well-done riffs on the classics, like a rum twist on a French 75 or a minty old-fashioned.

Farther into Uptown (about a 10-minute cab ride), the Carrollton-Riverbend neighborhood is popping with restaurants, coffee shops, boutiques, and bars. Its most popular drag, Oak Street, is home to Jacques-Imo’s , a quirky, colorful spot with mismatched plastic tablecloths and swamp murals. The move here is ordering shrimp and alligator sausage cheesecake, blackened redfish, and crawfish etouffee. Just be prepared to wait—it’s always busy. Wash it all down with an ice-cold Schlitz at dive-bar fave Snake and Jake’s Xmas Club Lounge .

Travelers say: “[Snake and Jake’s is a] real NOLA experience. Unique, unpretentious and definitely off the beaten path. [They have] a great outdoor patio where no one is a stranger and two friendly dogs who will eat their kibble at the bar for a $2 donation to the Humane Society.” —@ dirk82kate

nytimes travel new orleans

MORNING: Indulge in a white-tablecloth breakfast

You have a day of gator-watching ahead of you, so get to Brennan’s early. And bring your appetite—the French Quarter destination treats breakfast like a three-course dinner.

Whether you sit in the pink-and-green dining room or leafy courtyard is up to you, but the turtle soup (a Creole staple) and eggs Hussarde (a richer version of eggs Benedict) are a must. As is the milk punch. (Brandy at breakfast?! Why not?) If you save room for dessert, you’ll be able to check another signature New Orleans dish off your list: bananas Foster. It was invented at Brennan’s back in the ‘50s, and they still flambé it tableside. It’s a real showstopper.

AFTERNOON: Boat down the bayou

Arrive back at your hotel (or your chosen pickup location) in time for your swamp tour . After a 35-minute drive out to the bayou, you’ll board a small airboat, which will zip you through narrow swamps and marshes that other boats can’t reach.

The tour drivers are great—both at knowing where alligators are lurking and at explaining the ecosystem and the animals that live there. While it’s worth doing for the scenery alone (picture moody cypress-filled swamps and lush Spanish moss), your chances of spotting blue herons, owls, eagles, turtles, and, of course, gators are also pretty good.

OTHER TOUR OPTIONS OUTSIDE THE CITY

  • For a slower-paced, up-close-and-personal view of Louisiana’s wetlands, opt for a kayak swamp tour instead. You’ll paddle by gators and cypress knees while learning about the history of the area, its plants, and its wildlife.
  • The New Orleans Steamboat Natchez Harbor Cruise offers a different kind of boat ride. The paddlewheeler takes you on a leisurely ride down the Mississippi to the tunes of a three-piece jazz band. There’s also helpful narration if you’re curious about the sites passing by.
  • Prefer to sightsee on land? The Whitney Plantation Tour takes you out to an old sugar plantation, where you’ll get a no-holds-barred look at what life was like for enslaved people in the South. Tripadvisor reviewers call it “powerful” and “eye-opening.”

EVENING: Wine, cheese, and choose-your-own nightlife

Once back in the city, hitch a ride to the Bywater , a colorful (both literally and figuratively) neighborhood along the Mississippi River. Get dropped off at Bacchanal , a wine shop with small plates, make-your-own cheese boards, and live music in the twinkly backyard. If you’re there in time for sunset, order your chèvre and rosé to-go and have a picnic in Crescent Park .

If you need something more hearty, grab a slice (or two) of New York-style pizza at Pizza Delicious , or sit down to a proper meal of crab beignets and griddled salmon at The Country Club . Both are just a 15-minute walk down the street.

From there, you have a few choices. If it’s Thursday, beeline it to Vaughan’s , where there’ll probably already be a crowd lined up to hear trombone player Corey Henry. Saturn Bar is another good option—it’s a punky, divey sort of place that often has bands (everything from cumbia to indie dance rock). Or grab a cab to Hi-Ho Lounge for bluegrass, psychedelic rock, or even a comedy show.

Travelers say: “We saw a lot of amazing musicians and places while in New Orleans for jazz fest recently, but the highlight of our musical adventures was at Vaughan's for Corey Henry's Thursday night set. The place was jam-packed, like seriously packed, so you need to get there early. Sardine-like atmosphere aside, the music that Corey and his band are putting down is epic. The real deal.” —@ JCrenshaw

nytimes travel new orleans

MORNING: Time hop to World War II

Head to the Arts (or Warehouse) District. You’ll want to carve out a good chunk of your morning to see The National World War II Museum . This institution tells the story of the war through short films (including a 4D movie narrated by Tom Hanks), oral histories, immersive exhibits, and an incredible selection of artifacts. (Don’t miss the shark-faced fighter plane.) You can get through most of it in about three or four hours, but history and museum buffs may want more time to linger.

THE NATIONAL WORLD WAR II MUSEUM TOUR

  • With so much to see, it can be helpful to tack on a guided tour of the museum’s Road to Berlin and Road to Tokyo Exhibits. The super-knowledgeable guides may point out details you’d otherwise miss.

AFTERNOON: Ferry across the Mississippi

The museum’s restaurant is solid, but Cochon Butcher , just two blocks east, does New Orleans’ classic dishes really well. Start with boudin (Cajun rice sausage), then follow it up with a muffuletta. ( Central Grocery may have invented this sandwich, but Cochon’s version is also excellent.)

Walk off lunch by strolling 20 minutes northwest to the Canal Street Ferry Terminal, next to the Audubon Aquarium. Here you’ll pick up the Algiers Ferry , which leaves every 30 minutes at 15 and 45 minutes past the hour. Take the short, $2 ride over the Mississippi River to Algiers, New Orleans’ second oldest neighborhood.

Algiers is small-town living with big-city culture. Check out the skyline view and the Italianate-style courthouse, then stroll along the paved levee path for a stretch. Inland, be sure to wander down Olivier, Vallette, and Pelican Streets, where you’ll find everything from Creole cottages and Victorian houses to a Carpenter Gothic church and a 1930s gas station. If your feet need a rest, drop into local hangout Old Point Bar for a beer or a snack.

EVENING: A proper night out in the Quarter

End your trip where you started: the French Quarter. Tucked inside Hotel Monteleone, the Carousel Bar is known for inventing the Vieux Carre cocktail—but it also makes a mean Sazerac (considered the official cocktail of New Orleans). Time it right, and you may be able to secure a seat at the bar’s other claim to fame: the revolving merry-go-round bar.

For a true New Orleans dining experience, make Arnaud’s your next stop. The legendary restaurant has been serving well-dressed locals for over 100 years. Between courses of souffle potatoes and shrimp Arnaud, pop your head into the award-winning French 75 bar or sneak upstairs to see the old Mardi Gras paraphernalia.

By this time, Bourbon Street should be in full swing. As you’d expect from America’s party street, Bourbon gets loud, crowded, and messy. It can also be a whole lot of fun. At night, the entire street is closed to traffic, so you can walk up and down with your go-cup—that’s New Orleans’ speak for a to-go cocktail—and see everything from drag queens to tap dancers. (Just watch your stuff; there are also pickpockets.)

If you need a breather, drop into the Old Absinthe House , Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop (the purple voodoo daiquiri is delicious—and dangerous), or Fritzel’s European Jazz Pub . Or walk four blocks east to Beachbum Berry's Latitude 29 for a more civilized (but still really fun) option. Then try not to miss your flight home.

Travelers say: “The thing you have to get [at Arnaud’s] is the café brulot. Coffee mixed with brandy and orange curacao, sugar, and cinnamon that has been set aflame and poured down an orange peel pierced with cloves. Yep. It's a great visual and a lovely way to end the evening.” —@ El-Cholestero

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Know Before You Go

New Orleans gets hot, so avoid the summer months if you can (especially July and August, which tend to be rainy and humid). The most popular times to visit are February (Mardi Gras) and spring (nice temps, Jazz Fest), but you’ll need to book your accommodations early.

The fall can also be a great, less-crowded time to visit. The weather is mild, and despite hurricane season running through November, the city doesn’t get a ton of rain (minus the rare storm).

Consider December and January as well—you’ll find lower hotel rates and easier-to-get dinner reservations. New Orleans can be chilly in the winter, but it’s still pretty mild compared to most of the country that time of year.

There’s not really a bad day to visit New Orleans. Weekends are fun, but they can also be crowded, making weekdays a good bet if you’re looking for a low-key getaway. As in many cities, some restaurants are closed on Mondays, but there’s no shortage of good places to eat. Another perk of visiting midweek? Many museums offer free or discounted admission.

Live music also tends to be a seven-days-a-week affair, but you can always check WWOZ’s Livewire Music Calendar to make sure your trip lines up with someone you want to hear.

You can find somewhere to eat, shop, or hear live music nearly any time of day. While most restaurants stop serving around 9 or 10 p.m., many late-night spots are open till 1 a.m., and some are even open 24/7—a good thing, because New Orleans doesn’t have a last call. Technically, bars can stay open 24 hours (and several do); however, most shut down around midnight or between 2 and 4 a.m.

Most jazz shows take place around dinnertime—between 6 and 10 p.m.—but some Frenchmen Street venues can go as late as 2 a.m.

French Quarter : If you want to be right in the action, this is your spot. It’s close to everything—and where we focus a good amount of our itinerary. A favorite of many Southern authors (including Tennessee Williams and William Faulkner), Hotel Monteleone has excellent service and a convenient location, especially for nightcaps at the Carousel Bar.

Uptown/ Garden District : For a quieter vacation, choose the Uptown area (which covers the Garden District, a significant part of our Day 2 itinerary). Located in a 19th-century townhouse, Henry Howard Hotel feels like home-away-from-home, if that home was also unbelievably regal.

Central Business/Warehouse District : Close to the Quarter without being in the Quarter, the downtown area has some of the best museums, art galleries, and restaurants. Even if you’re not going to a Saints game, the CBD makes a solid home base, with hotels running from modern ( Ace Hotel , The Troubadour ) to historic ( The Roosevelt ).

By streetcar: Fun, inexpensive, and easy to navigate, streetcars are one of our favorite ways to see the city. With four different lines, they run most hours of the day and can take you to the general vicinity of nearly anywhere you want to go.

By rideshare: Uber, Lyft, and KreweCar (a locally owned service) all operate in New Orleans and make getting around easy.

By taxi: Cabs are a good (and safe) option as well. You can usually find stands near major hotels and attractions.

By bike: New Orleans is a truly bike-friendly city, with over a hundred miles of lanes. Take advantage of the city’s bike-sharing program or rent one from a local shop. If you aren’t comfortable navigating a new city on two wheels, there are also plenty of bike tours to choose from.

By bus and ferry: New Orleans doesn’t have a metro or subway system, but the city bus is reliable, as is the Algiers Ferry . You’ll also find the classic hop-on and hop-off buses , which you can pick up at most major landmarks.

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The Bazaar Guide to New Orleans

Just in time for Jazz Fest

Even if you can’t make it to Jazz Fest, the city’s busy cultural calendar means there’s really never a bad time to plan a trip to the Crescent City. Ahead, Harper’s Bazaar shares our favorite spots to eat, drink, dance, and shop in New Orleans. Laissez les bon temps rouler —let the good times roll!

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One of the greatest things about New Orleans is that there’s no shortage of gorgeous hotels to host you. A personal favorite of mine is Hotel Saint Vincent —a former orphanage turned mod-inspired abode (and also where I happened to get married)—tucked away in the quiet Lower Garden District and home to one of the best pools in the city. Those who want to be closer the action (i.e., the reckless abandon of Bourbon Street) can opt for lodging closer to the French Quarter, where Expedia-approved properties such as the Eliza Jane , the Kimpton , and the newly renovated Four Seasons New Orleans provide not only top-tier hospitality, but also the ultimate convenience: being able to step out the door and join any party that’s passing by. New Orleans has a subtle duality that one notices once they get to know the city better—and part of its beauty is being able to switch between the lavish celebrations and the more laid-back, slow-to-start Southern mornings.

WHERE TO DRINK

There’s no such thing as a bad drink in New Orleans. Whether you’re looking for an artisanal cocktail or a glass of funky natural wine, anywhere you stumble into will likely have the libation you’re looking for. For those who want to spend the day with a bottle and the best damn charcuterie plate you’ll ever have, head to Bachannal in the city’s hipster haunt of Bywater. If it’s time for happy hour, Luke’s downtown has a perfect French 75 (with cognac! the NOLA way!) paired with a dozen fresh oysters, and there’s Peychaud’s or Columns Bar for dirty martinis done right. Paradise Lounge at Hotel Saint Vincent also makes a mean Italian margarita and rosemary spritz, and the roof of the Ace Hotel is the perfect spot for a nightcap (and makes a top-shelf espresso martini).

WHERE TO EAT

Don’t tell New York, but to me, New Orleans is America’s best food city. While on a macro level the town is known for the obvious contenders (beignets! gumbo! po’boys!), it also has so many hidden gems from local chefs aiming to reinvent how the world sees Creole cuisine. Be sure to visit Acme’s Oyster House for traditional New Orleans eats, (get a dozen chargrilled, add hot sauce, and ask for extra bread), Elizabeth’s in Bywater for a perfect Southern breakfast (praline bacon: Don’t ask, just do!), and Cafe Sbisa for chicken and (sweet potato!) waffles and sinfully good shrimp and grits. For chef-driven sandwiches bigger than your head, head to Turkey & the Wolf ; or for a gorgeous weekend brunch in a dreamy garden, opt for Cafe Amelie . Satsuma is great for vegetarians or anyone hoping for bit of lighter fare, and Dakar has been highlighted nationwide for its take on Senegalese cuisine. Cafe du Monde and its pillowy-soft beignets are, of course, nonnegotiable.

WHERE TO DANCE

Technically, the party can be wherever you want it to be in New Orleans, but for the sake of brevity, the best place to find live music in the city would be anywhere on Frenchman Street. Nightlife staples include DBA New Orleans , the Spotted Cat Music Club , the Rabbit Hole , and Treme Hideaway , among many others .

WHERE TO SHOP

New Orleans is a city for music lovers and eccentric dressers. Any vinyl fan will have a field day sorting through vintage LPs at NOLA Mix Records in the Lower Garden District, while independent boutiques like Lekha , Elysian by Emily Morrison , and Saint Claude Social Club provide provide eclectic pieces for your home and wardrobe. Nestled inside of Hotel Saint Vincent, ByGeorge is perfect for any luxury lover: The mini boutique sells resortwear and accessories from brands like Loewe, Dries Van Noten, Christopher John Rogers, and Rabanne.

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Bianca Betancourt is the culture editor at HarpersBAZAAR.com , where she covers all things film, TV, music, and more. When she's not writing, she loves impulsively baking a batch of cookies, re-listening to the same early-2000s pop playlist, and stalking Mariah Carey's Twitter feed. 

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The Down Lo

36 Hours in New Orleans

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As the most European city in America, waking up in New Orleans for the first time will leave you feeling alive, like you’ve teleported to a new world unlike anywhere else in the US. French influence is everywhere, from the iconic architecture to the flavor-explosion food that’ll leave you thinking everywhere else pales in comparison with its blandness.

Culture oozes through the cuisine, cobblestone streets, street performers, and bars hidden in basements and alleyways. You may know the city by its nickname, “The Big Easy,” but do you know the history behind it? In the early 1900s, this city was known for how easy it was for musicians to find work here. Also known as “The Birthplace of Jazz,” if NOLA doesn’t get your toes tapping, one of their signature strong cocktails might.

Thirty-six hours is not nearly enough to explore (or eat your way around), but you can get a good taste. Whether you’re looking for a quick weekend getaway or a stop on a Southern Road trip, here are the must-dos for a first-time visit to New Orleans.

A New Orleans Food Guide

As the birthplace of Cajun/Creole, the food in New Orleans is a cuisine you can’t get anywhere else in the world, at least not this good. A blend of flavorful and homey southern cooking with influence from the French settlers, must-try dishes are seafood-heavy and include oysters, gumbo, po boys, etouffee, jambalaya, blackened redfish, and crawfish when in season. If the heavy, buttery, comfort food isn’t your cup of tea, you’re crazy, but you can also eat your weight in beignets.

nytimes travel new orleans

Good Morning, NOLA

A Saturday morning is a perfect time to start your time in New Orleans. When you arrive, odds are you’re going to need some immediate sustenance to prepare yourself for a nighttime of revelry. Head straight to The Ruby Slipper Cafe for their all-day brunch and, dare I say, a mimosa? Try out the Bananas Foster Pain Perdu or get the whole experience with a Crawfish & Grits Benedict or Bayou Shrimp Benedict, which you can also mix and match to make a flight.

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What to Do in New Orleans

Now comes the tricky part because how do you fit an entire city into a day? The answer is you pack it all in. Grab your walking shoes and get ready to explore. There are some excellent museums in the French Quarter like Mardi Gras World , which houses all the oversized floats and explains how they’re made, the Mardi Gras Museum of Costumes and Culture , the Museum of Death for those fascinated with the macabre and the city’s darker underbelly, and closer to the water, the Jazz Museum . There’s also JAMNOLA , which is more of an experiential popup, and it will get you some great Instagram photos. If you are trying to work up an appetite for lunch or work off some of the morning calories, consider a more active adventure like kayaking the bayou or renting a bike to cover the most ground. Finally, you should probably experience some hocus pocus on your trip, so head over to Marie Laveau’s House of Voodoo for all of your psychic and metaphysical needs.

Quick Refuel

After getting a taste of the city, regroup at Stanley’s for lunch, a New Orleans staple, which is also great for brunch if you have the time. Get adventurous with a Creole classic of French-fried frog legs or keep it simple with a shrimp po’ boy. They don’t take reservations, so if it’s looking crowded, throw your name on the list and spend the wait wandering around Jackson Square , a beautiful parkway right on the river dedicated to local hero Andrew Jackson. Pop in the St. Louis Cathedral because it is an absolutely stunning piece of architecture and meander or eat your way through the the French Market , one of the best outdoor bazaars anywhere. A quicker refuel would be to pick up charcuterie fix-ins at Picnic Provisions and head to Audubon Park to soak in the vibes.

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What’s a vacation without snacks and happy hours?

One requirement for your time here is to try a beignet from Cafe Du Monde . While you might think of it as a tourist trap (only because of how well known it is), it is a must-visit for its sugary, powdery goodness and a great pick-me-up between excursions. But if your afternoon snack looks more like a cocktail, there are plenty of spots for that, too, if that isn’t obvious. Without being too cliche, every hour is happy hour in New Orleans, and you’ll find great deals on oysters and drinks from frozen monstrosities to classic cocktails. Stop by Brennan’s for sippers and their famed bananas foster or hello to Emeril Lagasse at one of his many restaurants. We recommend Meril .

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The city of…tours?

In the afternoon, hit one of the many tours that New Orleans has to offer. The city is full of history (and not the boring kind). Haunted History Tours has some of the best, from Haunted Cemetery tours to a Haunted Pub Crawl, which will take about two hours and set you back just $25 making them great options to see the city without breaking the bank. Some tours will also get you out on the water to explore the swamps and the bayou. If you’ve never been on an airboat or paddlewheel, now is the time!

Nola After Dark

The recipe for a good night in Nola starts with a good meal, followed by good drinks and live music, and you can pretty much find that anywhere in town. For dinner, check out Cochon for classic Creole cooking in a contemporary setting or one of their sister restaurants, Herbsaint or Peche . In terms of a night on the town, the renowned Bourbon Street and Frenchmen Street are must-sees, which is really a choose your own adventure for whatever whim and whimsy you’re looking to find. Preservation Hall is also a must for music lovers (advanced reservations required).

You can wander the street with a to-go drink in all shapes, sizes, and colors and take in the street scene, but don’t miss a signature hurricane, daiquiri, or hand grenade (essentially a Long Island sugar bomb) from Pat O’Brien’s party headquarters. There’s also Maple Leaf Bar for live music, The Spotted Cat for jazz, and French 75 for a more upscale spot to drink and dance the night away.

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Time to Recover

Maybe you had a few too many last night or got a lot less sleep, but odds are you are looking for carbs and a little hair of the dog. Head over to Commander’s Palace for their Jazz Brunch to eat well and experience the famous atmosphere. For this one, men will need jackets, and there are no shorts allowed, so plan accordingly for one last hoorah, knowing it will absolutely be worth it.

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Explore the Garden District

Whether you feel like you conquered the French Quarter yesterday or are simply looking for a fresh perspective, round out the rest of your time in the Garden District for a completely different look at the city (and which many say is their favorite area!). You can get there by the St. Charles Streetcar for $1.25 (make sure you have cash) and make a day of it. Hop on the Washington Station in the French Quarter, or pop by Magazine Street first for a little retail therapy.

nytimes travel new orleans

Things to do in New Orleans for Kids

Despite the stereotypes and what you may have heard, it may surprise you to learn that New Orleans is extremely family-friendly and the perfect place to bring everyone from tiny Timmy to grandpa Joe. Everything desirable about the city can be transformed into a kid-friendly experience. Take a carriage ride around the city or roll down the river on the Steamboat Natchez . And for the most fun of all, head to City Park , which hosts the Museum of Art, a Train Garden , the Carousel Gardens Amusement Park , and just about every other attraction one could ask for. It’s genuinely worthy of tacking on an extra day for.

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Free things to do in New Orleans

New Orleans is one of those cities that can be done super luxe or super budget, depending on how you swing it. The best free thing to do, hands down, is listen to live music. Don’t be shocked if every street you turn down has a full band on the corner. Great music can be found at almost every bar venue, but for easy listening, outdoor concerts, check out the Musical Legends Park or Faubourg Brewing . Other free attractions include meandering along the Mississippi River, touring the Sazerac House , or people watching on Bourbon Street.

nytimes travel new orleans

Add Mardi Gras to Your Bucket List

We can’t talk about New Orleans without talking about Mardi Gras, so here it goes. Culminating on Fat Tuesday, Carnival is actually celebrated for an entire season. It starts January 6th every year, otherwise known as King’s Day, and runs until the big event on Fat Tuesday (the date changes every year). On Fat Tuesday, the city is filled to the brim with people in costume and masks, watching parades, throwing beads, attending balls, and eating king cake. Many of the events are free and, contrary to popular belief, fun for the entire family. If you want to visit during this time, make sure to plan ahead as hotels book up fast. It’s a great bucket list experience, but you can get a taste of the fun anytime you visit.

Where to Stay in New Orleans

If you’re here for just a short visit, you want to be as centrally located as possible to capitalize on every second in the city, as most of New Orleans is very walkable. Two to check out Hotel Provincia l and Hotel Monteleone in the French Quarter. Hotel Monteleone actually has a piece of history in the lobby. It houses the Carousel Bar & Lounge, where you order a drink on a moving carousel, great for the ‘gram. Another solid upscale option is the Audubon Cottages to access the “oldest pool in New Orleans.” For boutique hotels that are a bit more budget-friendly, check out Hotel St. Pierre or Hotel Vinache.

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When my third grade teacher told me I should be a writer, I laughed because that was so basic. After all, my best friend was aspiring to be a princess. Lo and behold, 20 years later, here I am, biting my tongue.

A Chicago native, a Denverite by choice, and now an accidental Texan, I've made it my mission to see as much of the world as possible because life is short, but sweet for certain. Subscribe to follow the (mis)adventures.

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Jazz Fest, French Quarter Fest, Freret Street Fest, and more - spring is festival season in NOLA. Here are some of our favorites.

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Royal Sonesta

There's a New Orleans hotel for every traveler's needs. Take advantage of deals and offers from hotels all around the city.

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New Orleans' best restaurants, as ranked by the New York Times

The New York Times dropped its list Monday of the 25 best restaurants right now in New Orleans.

Why it matters: New Orleanians love to talk food and we love to dine out.

Driving the news: The list is a mix of classics (Brigtsen's and Dooky Chase's), newcomers (Dakar NOLA and Hungry Eyes), casual joints (Liuzza's by the Track and Mawí Tortillas) and upscale destinations (Brennan's and Commander's Palace).

Worth noting: Less than half of the restaurants on the list serve New Orleans-style food. The others mainly showcase global cuisine, such as Israeli, Vietnamese, Trinbagonian, Senegalese, Salvadoran and Indian food.

  • See the full list.

Between the lines: Brett Anderson wrote the list. He was the longtime food critic at NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune and now works for the New York Times.

What do you think? Are there restaurants that should have been included? Tell us at [email protected].

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New Orleans' best restaurants, as ranked by the New York Times

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The Perfect 3 Days in New Orleans Itinerary (2024 Guide)

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  • Last Updated: February 4, 2024

If you have a long weekend or just have a few days in passing through the area, check out our recommendation for the perfect 3 days in New Orleans itinerary. 

The Big Easy, as New Orleans is casually known, gets its reputation for being both a place where you can party all night or find plenty of ways to relax for a few days.

New Orleans, in particular, provides a great place to enjoy life.

I can guarantee it will be one of the most unique and eclectic cities you’ve ever visited, as it is a melting pot of several different cultures – a mix of French, Spanish, African American and a dash of Caribbean. 

There are so many great things to see and do in New Orleans that you could easily spend a few weeks here.

But most travellers only have a few days so we have come up with the perfect 3-day itinerary that will check off most of the boxes on your must-see list for New Orleans. 

READ MORE: Check out our brand new guide to the best things to do in New Orleans !

Table of Contents

Explore Jackson Square

Be in awe at st. louis cathedral, stroll the streets of the french quarter, walk through the new orleans pharmacy museum, get spooked in st. louis cemetery no 1, enjoy some authentic new orleans jazz, visit the most thorough wwii museum in the us, get ready to party at mardi gras world, stroll past the mansions of the garden district, pop into the superdome , party your butt off on bourbon street, explore the new orleans city park, choose your own adventure, continue exploring the park, catch an evening cruise on the mississippi river, when to visit new orleans, getting around new orleans, the best hostel in new orleans – ihsp french quarter house, best budget accommodation for couples – four points by sheraton, best mid-range hotel in new orleans – bourbon orleans hotel, best luxury hotel in new orleans – royal sonesta hotel new orleans , how to spend 3 days in new orleans itinerary.

To give yourself the best opportunity to enjoy all that New Orleans has to offer, you’re going to want to start by finding accommodation that is relatively close to the activities that you will want to do. 

Since much of the city’s attractions are within walking distance of downtown French Quarter, this makes an excellent place to start each of your 3 days in New Orleans.

So this New Orleans itinerary will assume that each day will start in or near the French Quarter. We’ve got some great recommendations below on where to stay at any budget.

But don’t worry, transportation is relatively quick and inexpensive in New Orleans. And unlike some of the major cities in the US, New Orleans is, well, it’s a bit easier to navigate.

So if you end up staying a little out of town to save a few bucks you should have very little difficulty finding your way back to the French Quarter. 

Wherever you stay and however you choose to travel around the city, know that you’re going to have a great 3 days in New Orleans!

READ MORE: After New Orleans, make sure you check out how to spend 3 days in New York City !

Day 1 – Exploring the Famous French Quarter

Your 3 day New Orleans itinerary will begin (each morning!) at the world-famous Cafe Du Monde on Decatur Street. Regardless of where you choose to stay in New Orleans, you can’t go wrong with this place to start your day.

With world-famous beignets and coffee or hot chocolate, you’re starting the day off on the right foot.

It might be a good idea to grab a few extra beignets to carry with you throughout the day.

But rest assured, there are plenty of great places to eat throughout the city. So as we propose items for your 3 days in New Orleans itinerary know that anytime you want to stop and grab a bite to eat you will not be disappointed. 

Beignets And Cafe Au Lait At Cafe Du Monde

From Cafe Du Monde you are already on the corner of Jackson Square , and well, the square is the best place to start getting acquainted with the French Quarter.

Pick out a park bench and choose to people watch, or stroll around the square and browse the many artists’ artwork that set up shop there.

You can even find a fortune teller to have your palm read or if you aren’t into that sort of thing just stop and enjoy the performers and musicians. 

Once you’ve crossed the square you will have arrived at the beautiful St. Louis Cathedral , it is the focal point of Jackson Square and is the most well-known landmark in New Orleans.

The doors are always open and welcoming tourists inside so go on in and have a look around.

You will be in awe of the intricate stained glass windows and murals on the ceiling and walls of this stunning Spanish Colonial cathedral. 

St Louis Cathedral New Orleans

From there, start your stroll down one of the streets in the area.

The historic French Quarter is lined with quaint creole cottages and ornate buildings with wrought-iron balconies.

Royal Street is known for its boutiques, art galleries, antique stores and fantastic eateries. The street is 13 blocks long and has lots of scenic buildings, so those into photography and architecture should stroll along Royal Street.

Or check out Frenchmen Street , a classier version of Bourbon Street. Frenchmen Street has great jazz venues, book stores and record shops and of course great food. 

The French Market is another cool place to explore. This market hall covers six blocks and has a wide array of local vendors selling food, souvenirs, handicrafts, and more. The French Market is supposedly one of the oldest market halls in the USA.

Related: Be sure to consider these amazing day trips from New Orleans !

If you’re into weird and unique history then definitely check out the New Orleans Pharmacy Museum .

It is the United State’s first licensed pharmacy and you’ll also learn a little history of voodoo and old fashioned remedies used in New Orleans.

READ MORE: Head on over to the west coast with this perfect San Francisco itinerary !

You can’t come to New Orleans and not go on a walking tour of a cemetery, as it’s considered one of the most haunted cities in the USA. The most popular cemeteries are located just outside the French Quarter.

St. Louis Cemetery No.1 is closed to the public, so booking a tour is a must to visit this popular attraction . Going on a guided tour will also give you an in-depth look into the history of the graveyard and ghoulish tales behind the most famous tombs.

Lafayette Cemetery is another popular cemetery to visit in New Orleans.

If you’re really into spooky stuff, there are other local guided tours that uncover the secrets and legends about New Orleans’s history of witchcraft, voodoo, vampires, ghosts, and more. Whether the mysteries are real or not cannot be proven, but believing in the supernatural is part of the fun of exploring New Orleans.

New Orleans Cemetery No 1

At this point, you can grab a bite to eat for dinner in the French Quarter before your next stop.

I recommend the Gumbo Shop , where you can fill up on a hearty bowl of gumbo or red beans and rice.

Then head right down the street to Preservation Hall, a historic live music venue that has been entertaining guests with incredible authentic New Orleans Jazz since 1961.

The best musicians in the city perform nightly shows, so get in line early for the upcoming set to make sure you get a good seat for the live jazz music. Or you can reserve a seat by purchasing Big Shot tickets in advance.

The venue doesn’t serve food or drinks so eat dinner before you go and grab a drink at a nearby beer stand to enjoy while listening to some of the best Jazz in the city.

This is a nice, mellow way to wrap up a very busy first day of your 3 days in New Orleans.

READ MORE: Make the most of your 3 days in Chicago with our detailed itinerary guide!

Day 2 – The Garden District and Surrounding Areas

The second day of your 3-day New Orleans itinerary will revolve around exploring and enjoying the Garden District 

If you’re like me, you’re going to skip the complimentary continental breakfast offered by your hotel and head back to Cafe Du Monde for some more beignets and hot coffee!

From here, head towards to Garden District. If you are tired from all the walking you did yesterday then hop on the St. Charles streetcar.

Go ahead and purchase a 3 Day Jazzy Pass as you will need it for tomorrow’s stops.

The St. Charles Streetcar will drop you off right outside your next destination, The National WWII Museum .

The Higgins landing craft that was used in the amphibious landing invasion of Normandy in 1944 was designed and built right here in New Orleans, and you will see one of those boats and many more WWII artifacts at this incredible museum.

There is not another WWII museum as in-depth as this one located anywhere else in the United States and it is a must-see while you are in New Orleans.

Not far from the WWII Museum and on the way towards the Garden District is Mardi Gras World.

If you happen to be visiting New Orleans outside of the Carnival season, then you must stop and tour this warehouse located along the Mississippi River .

Inside you will discover the giant decorative floats and costumes used in the Mardi Gras parades.

Here you’ll get a behind the scenes look at what it takes to build these extravagant floats, try on costumes and learn the history of the Fat Tuesday celebrations.

And if you’re hungry, they also give out a slice of King Cake at the end of the tour!

Mardi Gras Masks In New Orleans

The last destination on the St Charles line is the Garden District . Multi-storied victorian mansions with large porches and balconies line the streets of this beautiful neighbourhood.

Large ancient Live Oaks dripping with Spanish moss line each street and adds to the magical ambience of the area.

In the Garden District, you’ll find the home of Anne Rice, the famous author who wrote Interview With the Vampire. The childhood home of Peyton and Eli Manning. And the home of actress Sandra Bullock.

After all the walking you’ve done, you have probably worked up quite an appetite.

Make sure to pop into Joey K’s a casual restaurant serving up good New Orleans home cooking like Jambalaya and fried catfish. 

The Garden District is also home to the Commander’s Palace , a famous dining room that offers high-quality, fancy food and a decadent jazz brunch. Book a spot here if you feel like treating yourself!

READ MORE: Heading elsewhere in Louisiana? Check out our top recommendations for all the great things to do in Lafayette , just up the road!

Also around the Garden District area is the Caesars Superdome (formerly known as the Mercedes Benz Superdome).

If you’d rather spend less time at the WWII museum or you want to skip any other attractions mentioned, depending on the time of year you could choose to watch the Saints play a game of pro football at the Superdome.

You can check the Superdome events calendar for when you are in town, you may also find that your favourite musician is performing at the Superdome during your 3 days in New Orleans.

Whatever you choose to do, it’s definitely worth taking a look at as you head back to the French Quarter for the evening. 

From here, hop back on the St. Charles streetcar heading towards the French Quarter.

You will end your second day in New Orleans on the infamous Bourbon St .

Known for being a wild and raunchy part of the French District, you can’t come to New Orleans and not at least catch a glimpse of this famous street.

At night Bourbon street gets really loud and lively, and there’s always some form of party or entertainment going on.

Beer and daiquiri stands line the streets handing out to-go cups and bright flashing neon signs. Grab a drink to enjoy while taking in the sights and watching the street performers before calling it a night.

It would be very easy for Day 2 and Day 3 of your 3-Day New Orleans itinerary to blend together at this moment! Enjoy!

Bourbon Street New Orleans Itinerary

Day 3 – A Day to Play in New Orleans City Park

When you wake up on your final day in New Orleans you are likely already addicted to beignets from Cafe Du Monde.

So head on over to savor these tasty morning treats and grab a handful to tuck away for your travels. 

If you’re over beignets by this time, then pick up a bite to eat at the Ruby Slipper Cafe on Decatur St. and order their signature eggs benedict or banana fosters french toast. You won’t be disappointed!

After breakfast, hop aboard the Canal St. streetcar . This is where the New Orleans 3-Day Jazzy Pass you bought will come in handy!

The Canal St. streetcar will take you all the way to your next destination, City Park .

You could spend an entire day here and not see and do everything this massive park has to offer. The park is over 1300 acres and is home to the oldest grove of mature Live Oaks in the south.

You can pick from a number of things to do in the park from renting a bicycle or paddleboat to riding a Ferris wheel in the amusement park Carousel Gardens .

I recommend starting out at the Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden before entering the New Orleans Museum of Art .

The sculpture garden is a must-see and boasts over 80 sculptures by a number of talented artists strategically placed throughout the park’s 11 acres.

Once you are done meandering through the garden, head-on into the New Orleans Museum of Art.

The building itself is a sight to behold, and inside you’ll see over 40,000 exquisite works of art. By some of the best French and American artists.

It is one of the oldest and finest art galleries in the southern United States and whether you are into art or not, it should be on your shortlist of things to do in New Orleans. 

Horse Sculpture New Orleans Park

Next, you can take your pick of what you’d like to do. At Big Lake, you can rent a kayak, paddleboat or canoe and enjoy a leisurely paddle through the lakes bayou’s and lagoons.

Or rent a bicycle and go for a cruise on 4 miles of bike paths or just ride around Big Lake.

If amusement rides are more your style then check out Carousel Gardens . This family-friendly amusement park has 17 different rides to enjoy including a roller coaster, Ferris wheel and the most popular ride of all the historic carousel that is over 100 years old.

There are only 100 others like it in the country with hand-carved wooden horses that have real horse hair mane and tails. The carousel is so popular, some people come to the park just to see and ride it!

Included in the entrance to Carousel Gardens is another park, Storyland . And if you have kids, this is the perfect place for them to run, jump and play around large storybook sculptures! 

If you have less than 3 days in New Orleans, you may not have time to get out here to the park. But if you have time, it’s definitely worth it.

You could go to the Botanical Gardens next, a 10 acre garden with a variety of 2,000 different plants from around the world.

Or even enjoy a round of golf at one of the two golf courses located in the park.

If you are already worn out from your adventures the past two days then sit down and relax in the shade under one of the large Live Oaks and enjoy your surroundings as you take it easy in the Big Easy.

Live Oaks New Orleans

Now that we’ve worn you out, head back down towards the French Quarter and stop at Toulouse Street on the Mississippi River to board the historic Steamboat Natchez .

Relax on this evening cruise down the Mississippi River while enjoying the tunes created by the live Jazz band.

A buffet-style dinner is served on board with your choice of two dinner seatings.

Stroll around the decks of this historic steamboat, tour the engine room and then dance the night away to the Grammy-nominated band “Dukes of Dixieland.”

Steamboat In New Orleans

Tips and Advice for Your New Orleans Itinerary

Now that you know what to do in during your New Orleans itinerary, it’s time to find out some more information about where to stay, when to visit, and most importantly where to eat!

Any time of year is a great time to visit New Orleans.

By far the most popular time to spend 3 days in New Orleans is from February to May because the temperature is cooler and less humid in Spring in the south.

Also, Mardi Gras is in February, so if you plan to visit then make sure to plan well ahead and book accommodations in advance.

December and January is a much quieter time to visit and hotel prices will be cheaper. During the summer months, New Orleans gets very hot and humid and you can expect rain almost every afternoon.

From June through November is hurricane season which can be hit or miss in terms of the weather, so be ready for things to not go as planned if you have a tour or excursion booked. 

For 3 days in New Orleans, it’s relatively easy to get around. A rather compact city, the most popular way to get around is by walking, and most of the top attractions are within walking distance of each other.

If you’d rather not walk, then hop on one of the historic streetcars that can take you from the French Quarter to other destinations around New Orleans.

And it’s a great way to see the city if you’re on a tight budget as a one-way ticket is only $1.25 or buy a full day pass for $3. 

Or for a quicker way to get around, just call an Uber or taxi. New Orleans is a very popular place and finding an uber shouldn’t be a problem.

If you’re interested in seeing as much of the New Orleans attractions as you can in a short period of time, consider taking the hop-on-hop-off double-decker bus around town .

Not only will you have magnificent views as you are shuttled around the Big Easy, but also you’ll be able to get on and off whenever you come across something of interest!

Streetcar In New Orleans

Where to Stay in New Orleans

There are tonnes of great places to stay during 3 days in New Orleans.

Whether you are on a budget and looking for dorm-style accommodations or celebrating a special occasion and looking for a hotel with a more upscale feel, you will have options.

Because New Orleans revolves around the French Quarter, and because each day of our New Orleans itinerary begins there, we’re recommending places to stay in the French Quarter for every budget. 

The French Quarter House is the only hostel located in the French Quarter. With both dorm-style and private rooms at a budget price, you can’t find accommodation this cheap anywhere else in the French Quarter.

Put yourself close to where all the fun is and let your budget go toward Bourbon Street instead of a hotel!

It’s hard to find a budget hotel located in the historic French Quarter. But with price in mind, you can’t beat the Four Points by Sheraton for the location and amenities offered.

Included in your stay are free wifi, breakfast, cable t.v., and an outdoor pool and bar. 

Stay at the European styled Bourbon Orleans Hotel located right in the middle of the French Quarter.

With a lovely outdoor swimming pool, restaurant and bar on-site, and room service means you may never want to leave the hotel property. 

Rated one of the top luxury hotels in the French District. Royal Sonesta Hotel has a multitude of room choices from a simple double-bed room to a king suite with a balcony overlooking Bourbon St.

Each room has free wifi and cable t.v. along with 24hr room service. With three restaurants on-site, including one of the best fine dining venues in New Orleans, a cafe and live jazz venue means everything you could need or want is right outside your hotel room. 

Best Restaurants in New Orleans

Want to know where to eat in New Orleans? Of course you do! Eating is one of the highlights of a 3 days in New Orleans itinerary.

There are lots of incredible places to eat in the area, as it’s home to a wide array of Cajun food and is definitely one of the culinary capitals of the USA.

Real foodies should consider joining a local food tour. New Orleans has many local walking tours that take you to all the best food spots. So if you don’t want to do the research and just want to be led to all the best eateries, consider a food tour.

You can choose a Garden District food tour or a French Quarter food tour!

Aside from an amazing food walking tour, here are the best restaurants in New Orleans.

The Ruby Slipper Cafe on Magazine Street is known for their amazing breakfast, which is served all day. Serving up creative takes on the classic eggs benedict and french toast and adding their own New Orleans flavor to shrimp and grits!

Definitely also check out the French Market for some delicious and cheap quick meals.

Joey K’s is cooking up the best jambalaya and po’boys in the middle of the Garden District. You really can’t go wrong with anything on the menu here, as long as you’re looking for some tasty Cajun and Creole! It’s also located on Magazine Street, which is a hub for amazing food.

Acme Oyster House is another classic Cajun and Creole spot that offers incredible seafood and a fun, lively atmosphere.

Restaurant R’evolution offers a unique dining experience serving up classic creole and cajun dishes with a twist right to your table. Enjoy a higher-end gumbo prepared with quail, andouille sausage and oysters and a sweet side of beignets to tamper the cajun heat a little!

Also, the Commander’s Palace in the Garden District is an iconic New Orleans spot, as mentioned earlier.

DISCLAIMER: Some of the links in this article are affiliate links, which means if you book accommodation, tours or buy a product, we will receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. These commissions help us keep creating more free travel content to help people plan their holidays and adventures. We only recommend the best accommodations, tours and products that ourselves or our fantastic editorial team have personally experienced, and regularly review these. Thanks for your support, kind friend!

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Lindsay Harvey

Hi, We’re Alesha and Jarryd!

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10 Best Times Of The Year To Travel To New Orleans

Visit New Orleans at the 10 best times of the year to have a superb experience. Tourists can create lasting memories by visiting at the right time.

New Orleans! Or NOLA, as some call it, is a great place to visit almost around the year. Some even call it the Big Easy, and no wonder! Its welcoming, friendly locals, a mix of rich culture, and fantastic food make it a charming place to spend some quality time on vacation with loved ones. Over the last few centuries, New Orleans collected multiple cultures, including French, Spanish, African-American, and others. So, all these combined heritage factors nicely season up NOLA’s food, music, art, architecture, and traditions.

If all these fun and quirky things in and around New Orleans don’t incite travelers to go to the Big Easy, then the list of multiple events taking place in New Orleans around the year will surely make this a must-visit destination. This city boasts many landmarks, museums, galleries, restaurants, bars, and hotels full of great musical talent.

So, planning an itinerary for New Orleans? Tourists will have numerous options to choose from. But knowing when to visit is also important. Here, the number of tourists rushing to NOLA, the prevailing hotel room prices, and the weather conditions all matter tremendously. Keeping these points in mind, visitors can decide what time is best to visit New Orleans . With that in mind, whether looking to sample the best fish dishes in New Orleans or seek out its best festivals, it's time to take a look at the best times of year to visit NOLA.

10 February-March

The tourist season starts in the months of February-March with the loveliest weather. Think of a major event like the famed Mardi Gras in February-March and on the side Tennessee Williams/Literary Festival, and it usually happens around these two months. If travelers love nice mild weather, peak crowds, and crazy fun, they should visit New Orleans at this time of the year.

The two-week plus Mardi Gras carnival promises a unique experience for the visitors to this great city. Just visualize attending masquerade parties with fun costumes and watching incredible floats at the festival. If that sounds appealing, visiting in late February or early March, which are generally the months of Mardi Gras in New Orleans, is the perfect time to do so.

If travelers hope to enjoy some sightseeing NOLA in the Mardi Gras season, forget about it. Most other sites generally close down during Mardi Gras.

Springtime continues in April, promising lovely weather and a time of the year to visit the Big Easy. Be prepared for higher flight and hotel prices, though. Spring in April brings the best of NOLA forward. From mid to end of April, one can see the French Quarter Festival and New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival in April-May - the two main events to keep track of. Attending these two festivals marks April as the perfect time to visit New Orleans.

  • French Quarter Festival celebrates Louisiana music, food, and its rich culture. Tourists can also enjoy free tours of the lovely gardens and homes of the French Quarter.
  • The New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival is considered one of the year’s biggest events. Just don’t forget to prebook flights and stay beforehand, as the waiting line for the event is quite long. Get a head start on any travel plans.

May promises the start of the summer season with temperatures in the high 80s. New Orleans is quite uncomfortably humid during summer. So, May is among the best times to visit New Orleans. The Bayou Boogaloo festival in May is also a worthy tourist event. Remember, NOLA is primarily a walking town. Whether travelers wish to check out different art galleries or bar hop, they have much to do on the outside. So, going for the May month is best before the humid and sticky summer months come.

Related: Skip The Crowds, This Is Where The Locals Eat In New Orleans

7 September

Think affordable hotels and flights along with having the best weather with less rain! If that sounds tempting, September is the perfect time to visit New Orleans. But the summer heat and humidity can still linger in September. It is a great month for foodies due to Restaurant Week, which usually occurs in late September - a great excuse to try some of the best restaurants in New Orleans that combine tasty food with fun nightlife . Overall, visitors can get the best of the summer and fall seasons with affordable prices and minimal risk of crowds.

October is also one of the best months to visit New Orleans, as the hurricane season ranging from June to August is mostly over. This month typically sees some of the least rainfall throughout the year with less hassle from lesser crowds. Tourists can also escape the mad spring rush by visiting the NOLA this month. Furthermore, Crescent City Blues & BBQ Festival and Voodoo Music & Arts Experience make up the noteworthy events of October.

5 Halloween (End Of October)

Halloween is probably the biggest time of year in New Orleans, only second to Mardi Gras. There are huge parties and bewitching displays of spooky and fun Halloween decorations, and the entire town gets into the scary festive spirit. Every year, Halloween in New Orleans attracts thousands of people to the French Quarter for a ton of fun, as zombies, ghosts, vampires, goblins, and costumes of all kinds haunt up and down Frenchmen Street. Plus, the spooky season is the perfect excuse to check out New Orleans's eerie haunted sites on a ghost and vampire mystery tour .

Related: 10 Fun Things To Do In New Orleans In The Winter Months

November welcomes visitors to New Orleans with its mild pre-winter weather. Travelers can visit it without fear of being crowded by endless tourists. Some key events happening this month include:

  • Celebration in the Oaks (November-January)
  • Oak Street Po-Boy Festival (November)
  • New Orleans Film Festival (November)

Here ‘Celebration in the Oaks’ is a months-long, family-friendly event that only happens after dark. Being a popular holiday lighting display in the country, this event attracts hundreds of thousands of people annually.

The best trip to New Orleans can be made in December if visitors want a low-key vacation. They can get lower prices and fewer crowds because of the approaching winter season. The weather is pleasantly cool and not harshly cold, typically staying between the 40s to 60s ranges.

Fun Fact: CN Traveler highly recommended New Orleans as one of the 23 Best Places to Spend Christmas in 2018. So, why not spend Christmas Eve in NOLA for a memorable experience?

If one wishes to avoid crowds and expensive stays or flights, then January is the best time to visit this lovely place. All the prices on hotels, flights, and rentals take a dip. Even the food gets cheaper in December-January, as restaurants typically drop their rates in response. Also, the Sugar Bowl in January is not to be missed in New Orleans.

Related: 10 Things You Didn't Know About The History Of Lafayette National Cemetery No. 1

1 The Summer Months (June, July, And August)

Think rainy hurricane months and extreme humidity. NOLA summer stays for three months: June, July, and August. Imagine extremely humid conditions and heat with average temperatures going as high as the mid-90s. Some people consider it the worst time to visit New Orleans, avoiding these months altogether - particularly if they hate staying indoors since many people stay inside to seek solace in shade and air-conditioning. But it’s a matter of perspective; some people enjoy the sun, heat, and humidity, after all, and are quite happy with walking through the sunny streets and even taking day trips from New Orleans .

Still, if visiting in summer, there may be fewer crowds and affordable experiences in some cases. It's also the best time to visit top NOLA events, such as:

  • Louisiana Cajun-Zydeco Festival
  • New Orleans Wine & Food Experience
  • New Orleans Pride Festival
  • Essence Festival
  • Satchmo Summer fest
  • COOLinary New Orleans
  • Red Dress Run

Here COOLinary means special multi-course, budget-friendly offers for lunch and dinner by multiple restaurants included in a specific list for the whole of August month.

The key to surviving summer in New Orleans is to stay indoors with frequent shelter and air conditioning breaks in the mix. Also, avoid continuous exertion outside in the heat and humidity, and remember to stay hydrated.

Newsletter: Escapes: On a quest for the heart and soul of New Orleans

Big Fun Brass Band in the French Quarter of New Orleans, where music seems around almost every corner.

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He heard her before he saw her, or, more precisely, heard her music, big, intense notes that filled New Orleans’ Royal Street.

He had almost missed it.

The “he” in this case is Christopher Reynolds , who writes for the Travel section. “She” is Doreen Ketchens, whose venue for her brand of jazz is right in front of Rouses Market at St. Peter and Royal streets.

Reynolds was in New Orleans to write about the street musicians, but he knew his story wouldn’t be complete without Ketchens, who plays the clarinet with a passion that carries far beyond Rouses Market . Time was running out; he hadn’t been able to connect, and he was due to get on a plane. And suddenly, there she was.

“She’s got a wide grin between tunes and when she’s in conversation,” Reynolds said. “But once it’s her turn to play, she closes her eyes and knits her brow and leans back and you know she is focusing her whole being on the notes coming out of that clarinet.

“You can tell that every note out of her horn is doing exactly what she wants it to do.”

You’ll find scores of musicians all over NOLA, which is part of the allure and what powers Reynolds’ most recent addition to his Sites and Sounds series, which started with Carnegie Hall, pivoted to the Fillmore in San Francisco and has also found sweet music between the two coasts.

There are other stories that may be music to your eyes this week: a guide to the last of the super bloom, a Weekend Escape to the Land of Enchantment, news about a concert in that other land of enchantment known as Las Vegas, a column on growing disenchantment with buying an airfare predicated only on price; and the opening of a hotel in Montecito where a favorite family lodging used to be.

Come join in an armchair journey that just might offer wings.

— Catharine Hamm

New Orleans — and why all that jazz matters

Reynolds prowled a mile of Royal Street, listening mostly to traditional jazz but also listening for the roots of a genre all its own informed by West African rhythms, brass bands, music festivals and more. It all comes together on the streets, and Reynolds captures the character not only of the sound but also of the city . Plus, he shot a really cool video.

Doreen Ketchens, on clarinet, and her band play Royal Street in New Orleans.

Is the wildflower party over? Not completely

The bloom is off the rose, so to speak, in some areas, but there are still more wildflower places to check out , Mary Forgione writes, including the burn areas of the Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve, the Santa Monica Mountains and Carrizo Plain. The wildflower guide that leads the story can help you identify what you’re seeing and is viewable on your phone using the mobile L.A. Times app or your smart phone’s browser. (Be sure to open the story.)

nytimes travel new orleans

In Taos, some like it hot

Irene Lechowitzky hadn’t been to Taos, N.M., in more than two decades, and, deciding it had been too long, returned to the town about 135 miles northeast of Albuquerque. She liked making its re-acquaintance , and she found some eating places that added spice to her Weekend Escape.

Welcome to the Hotel California — in Vegas

The Eagles, whose “Greatest Hits” album became the bestselling album of all time in the U.S., will play two shows in Las Vegas and will perform their iconic “Hotel California” album in its entirety. Tickets go on sale on Friday, Michael Hiller reports. No word yet on whether the concert will include mirrors on the ceiling or pink Champagne in ice.

nytimes travel new orleans

When price is a punishment

In this On the Spot column, I told readers how to predict that an airline might be in financial trouble and how to buy a ticket if you think that’s the case. But I also questioned whether we end up paying too high a price when we put price above comfort. Since I wrote this, I have been on a trip that reminded me that, yes, sometimes you should pay a little more so you don’t make yourself crazier. What are your thoughts? Drop me a line at [email protected] .

nytimes travel new orleans

How do I love thee, Lot E? Let me count the ways

Just to reassure you, I haven’t totally abandoned my penny-pinching ways, so I decided to give LAX’s Lot E a whirl while I was away. Funny, but I always had an aversion to Lot C, the previous incarnation of budget parking at LAX. But I think I may have a new BFF. Agree or disagree?

nytimes travel new orleans

Rosewood Miramar Beach hotel is open

Rosewood Miramar Beach hotel, which is on the site of the much loved former Miramar by the Sea, has opened in Montecito on 16 acres of prime ocean real estate . The old Miramar was once a family-friendly spot. In its place is the upscale Rosewood. Both have one thing in common: a rail line bisects the resort.

Go on a trip, cancel the guilt trip

It’s not easy being green, as Kermit the Frog would say, but it is attainable when it comes to travel, George Hobica writes. He outlines several ways in which you can reduce your carbon footprint while still enjoying the rewards of travel.

nytimes travel new orleans

A two-fer in San Francisco Bay

Now you can take a trip to Alcatraz and get a second destination — in this case, Angel Island, the “Ellis Island of the West’’ — as part of the package. And this is not three-hour tour — more like 5½, Mary Forgione writes.

nytimes travel new orleans

What we’re reading

Ghost towns have a certain charm; Cisco, Utah , certainly cast its spell on Eileen Muza, who is restoring the town — and offering a three- to five-week artist residency “to both preserve and share the unique character of the place,” Evan Nicole Brown writes in Atlas Obscura. The town is about an hour from anywhere, so if you need peace and quiet, this just may be your ticket. The residency begins Oct. 1. Muza’s website has application details .

Cats don’t usually make the list of ideal traveling companions. Maybe occasionally there’s one who’s pretty good in the car, but this is the first we’ve heard of one being a suitable cycling companion. Say hello to the dynamic duo of Dean Nicholson of Scotland and Nala , formerly of Bosnia-Herzegovina . Nicholson heard a little meow, stopped his bike and there she was. Now he and she are biking the world, he on a bicycle and she on his shoulder, Isaac Stanley-Becker reports in the Washington Post.

Komodo Island has about 5,700 of its namesake lizards (the ones dubbed dragons), which are the objects of curiosity and, for some, longing. Now the Indonesian island is closing to tourists , perhaps for as long as a year, Lyndsey Matthews writes in Afar. The creatures, which can grow as large as 10 feet, have been disappearing. Recently, 40 of the dragons were snatched, fetching $35,000 each. The government is hoping to increase the population of the lizards and keep them away from poachers. I don’t quite understand the allure of having one as a pet; I certainly wouldn’t want one cycling with me on my shoulder, especially because they can grow to 300 pounds and can kill a human with their venom, which keeps your blood from clotting so you bleed to death. Nice.

Here's a Komodo dragon, but it's just a baby. Imagine one that's 300 pounds.

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Come see master bargain hunters at the L.A. Times Festival of Books

The L.A. Times Festival of Books is this weekend at USC, and you can find out about travel bargains from experts George Hobica and John DiScala. The session is at 2:30 p.m. Saturday. It’s free and, even better, could save you a bundle on your travels.

I used to have a thing for world’s fairs, which was apparently genetic. My mother’s parents honeymooned in St. Louis, where they attended the 1904 World’s Fair. My older sister honeymooned in New York, where she and her husband attended the 1964 World’s Fair. And I went to New Orleans in 1984 for the World’s Fair, but it was no honeymoon.

I was sent to cover the May 12 opening of that fair and its aftermath. Gov. Edwin Edwards gave a shout of “Laissez le bons temps rouler” to get the good times rolling for an event that would let countries, including ours, show off their best and brightest.

All was well until the fair went bankrupt and ended up about $100 million ($245 million in today’s dollars) in the hole , the New York Times reported, noting that some blamed the high price of admission — $15, or about $35 nowadays, the heat, bad marketing and an outdated concept. Could have been any or all of those.

The city has taken its share of hard knocks in its 300-plus years, including 2005’s Hurricane Katrina, which killed 1,800 across the South and caused $160 billion in damage, half of that in New Orleans. Almost a third of the population left.

It would be trite to say the city bounced back. It fought its way back. It’s still fighting. Ann Simmons, formerly with the L.A. Times, was a correspondent in New Orleans for more than a year after Katrina. When Hurricane Harvey pummeled Houston, she wrote of New Orleans’ path back.

“ Just saying ‘Katrina’ seemed painful; it was reduced to the ‘K-word ,’” Simmons wrote. “The K-word always came up in conversation, no matter the topic. Tears typically accompanied the talk.

“But the storm did not only spawn hardship and discontent; it seeded solidarity.”

Maybe that’s what makes New Orleans so remarkable; much has been taken from it, yet it continues to give back. Music is at its core, part of its solidarity and one of its gifts to us.

Wherever you go, travel safely and well, appreciate the grit and the gifts wherever you are and always remember we will be here to welcome you home.

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Catharine Hamm is the former Travel editor for the Los Angeles Times and became a special contributor in June 2020. She was born in Syracuse, N.Y., to a peripatetic family whose stops included Washington, D.C.; Honolulu; and Manila. Her varied media career has taken her from McPherson, Kan., to Kansas City, Mo., San Bernardino, Salinas and L.A. Hamm has twice received individual Lowell Thomas Awards, and the Travel section has been recognized seven times during her tenure as editor. Her favorite place? Always where she’s going next.

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