2008 street glide cruise control

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2008 Harley-Davidson Street Glide™

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My first harley, safety is un measurable on this machine, had a lady salmon her brakes on major highway, managed rover to the passenger side of car, I recieved broken bones in lower leg with only minor cuts and scrapes due to the strength of highway bars! Bike got broken fender,fairing, running board, ... and saddle bags! When we picked it up we started it and drove it on the trailer! That was a 50 mph crash! Less than $500 cosmetic damages and me and my bike were riding again!

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You have to love this bike..

It is such a good looking beast. It sits well, rides a little hard and is perfectly balanced. You are going to have to replace the speakers. Distortion and wind keep the rider and passenger from hearing anything. This bike does run a bit warm but... seems to have no impact on the the performance. ... You love a touring bike or you dont. Riders tell me they prefer the smaller bikes for around town. It seems to have no true bearing. Its just a great bike.

My bike is less than one year old. The pipes are burning red at the engine. Took it back to the dealer, he had it for nearly two weeks the area service rep said that there was not a problem the red pipes are normal. Took it to a second dealer the same area service rep called and said there is still ... not a problem come and get your bike. I love this bike but I am so frustrated with Harley Davidson, they will not even take the bike apart. I was told that the feul injectors are the problem, but they will not even look at them. The computer says there is no problem. The service for this bike is making me wish I would have kept my Yamaha

I am 21 years old, and last year I bought a brand new 2008 street glide. where to start?!

1) Had a crotch rocket, rode dads new 08 ultra, hooked, had to get a harley!

2) went to get a fat boy, and dad talked me out of that into a street glide! and i am so glad he did, allthough ... i still love fatboys and hope some day i can get one for another bike i love my street glide.

2 complaints (one for me and one for my girl)

1) brakes squeek, my dads ultra hs same brakes and his dont do that, talked to dealer, and i guess this is common and they have no idea

2) seat is good for me, girl said isnt big enough or comfy for her, had new one put on.

LOVE THE BIKE! you will not regret buying a street glide

STILL SMILING

The last time I owned a Harley was in Germany in 1975. It was a Sportster and shook me most of the time. Just recently I purchased a 2008 Street Glide (White Gold Pearl) and I am once again a Happy Camper. Being only 5'7", I had to have it lowered in both the rear & front...I consider it a major ... safety issue if I can't plant both feet on the ground at a stop. I have join the millions of others adding things to their bikes....so far I have added the chrome lights to the fairing, changed the windshield height & put on lightly smoked windshield. The stereo is excellent and being a smoker...I still smirk about having a cigarette lighter on this bike. Haven't made any highway trips yet, but love the back county roads and feeling the freedom. For anyone wanting a Touring/Sports bike, without all the big passenger seat & extra bag....THIS IS THE BIKE FOR YOU ! I thought I wanted a Fat Boy, but approx 5 different friends talked me out of it....I am so happy they did.

2008 FLHX 105th anniversary street glide.

What can I say about this fantastic ride. I have had the oppourtunity to purchase 4 new harley Davidson'd since 1999 I believe that my new '08 FLHX is by far the best that Harley has built yet! From the six speed tranny,The six gallon fuel tank, The Brembo brakes,The custom copper and black paint, ... The ride, the performance I can go on and on. My wife and I can cruise on our street glide for hours before we need to pull over for a break. Everywhere we go whether it be Vermont, New York, Myrtle Beach etc. we get complimented on this bike and to think that this FLHX 105th anniversary model is unique as there was Only 3000 made in these colors! We really stand out. Thank You Harley Davidson.

Paul & Denise

Only one real complaint....the rest is sweet as pie!

My 2008 FLHX Street Glide was a birthday gift to myself for my 45th birthday. It is my first Touring model, my first bike with a real fairing, my first bike with a windshield, my first bike with a radio/CD player....and I am sure there a few more firsts there some place, but I digress.

Like ... I said I had only one real complaint about the Street Glide, and I believe that the problem spans the entire touring line from HD. Its the fact that because of a mistake the MOCO made with mounting the engine in the frame....having only two links and not three like it should. This causes the engine to shift in relation to the rear wheel, causing all sorts of moderate to high speed handling issues. For the most part the feeling you get is that of a tire that is almost flat in the rear. If you happen to be going through a long sweeping curve at 60>MPH, and the road had a slight dip, or you hit a small bump mid apex9or anyplace in the turn), you will go directly into almost a tank slapper. Its enough to make you turn white. This is the case with all the touring models going back who knows how many years. I have since added a third link to my Street Glide. There are about a dozen or so products on the market designed specifically to address this problem. The one I bought and installed is called the TWR Missing Link, and it changed the bike overnight. It rides like its on rails now....to just say its much better now is a gross understatement. Another fault with the bike is the short wind shield.....it is useless. In fact it is just the right hight to create a buffeting effect that will drive you nuts.....changing it out for a 8" Clear View Re-Curve unit did the trick there.

My Dark Blue Pearl FLHX has just under 3000 mi on it now, and I can say it has broken in nicely. I actually like everything else about the bike just the way it is. OH.....hold on a sec.......

The gauge cluster.....on the bottom left side of the inner fairing there is a ambient air temp gauge.....needless to say it is another useless part. HD sells a oil temp gauge kit that matches the rest of the gauges exactly. The kit comes with all you need to do the install the HD method. I decided (and most everyone else that has installed this 2" oil temp gauge kit) to just install the sending unit in the oil pan using the extra drain plug the MOCO has placed right there. IIRC its called the "Allen head" drain plug in the factory service manual. So now at least I know how hot my oil/engine is getting.....because as we all know these 96" baggers make way too much heat. I did switch over to Red-Line synthetic oil at 2500 miles, and also switched the primary and trans to Red-Line synthetic lubes. Even just the switch over to synthetic engine oil has cooled things down a bit, and the rider selectable cooling system that Harley has put on their 08' models also works nicely. The rear cylinder will shut down via a command from the ECM, but only after several parameters have been met like a stated engine temp, closed throttle, bike stopped and so on. Then the ECM will stop both fuel and spark to the rear cyl. You can turn this system off by rolling off the throttle a few mm's past the normal stop. Hold it there for three seconds, and the cruise control light in the tach will flash either green or red (well orange). The light will be there even if your bike didnt come with cruise....if it flashes green the system is on.....red and its off. This can be done with the engine running or not. With the engine not running the ignition switch must be in the run position though, and the kill switch set to run.

The engine in its totally stock form performed ok....the gearing was a bit too tall but you can get over that. The rear air shocks work well for two up riding, but a set of real high quality shocks are just a number$$$ away. Since I bought my FLHX I have added a SE-Heavy Breather intake, and Rinehart True Duals, along with the new SE Pro Race Tuner...that comes with a device that you can if needed attach to your belt, and then if your bike is exhibiting some sort of problem thats engine related (even things like the brakes and transmission are monitored to though) you push a little red button on the device and it will digitally record the event. Then you or a tech can view it on a PC and see whats wrong, then via the Race Tuners new SW you can correct the problem.

All in all I love this bike.....even though I feel like a old man riding it!

Almost perfect all round touring

I absolutely enjoy getting on this bike! Everyone I ride with says I have way too much fun. Everything is exactly where I want it to be, and even though it's the heaviest bike I've ever ridden, I do things on this bike that I've never done on any bike before. For reference, I'm 46, 6'2", and 215lb. ... I get on and go 500+ miles (with 1 gas stop), and then go hang out like it was 50 miles. The other guys have hand, leg, shoulder, and back problems.

And of course you can't beat it for curb appeal. IMO, the best looking Harley ever made, although I've only ever owned a Dyna Low, I've also ridden Fat Boy's, Road Kings, and Sportsters as well. No comparison.

The one area that could be improved... Going around bumpy, or washboard corners, needs extra care because of a little bit of "squiggles". The higher the speed, the worse it feels. I hear that's part of the improvements made to the frame in 2009. Oh well.

I'd buy this bike again in a heartbeat.

p.s. It also has the SE 103 ci stage II kit on it, with the chrome front-end.

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Harley Davidson Evolution and Twin Cam Touring

Cruise control does not work on Street Glide

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Hello Guy's I dont use my cruise control much but I tried it the other day, flipped the swithc on the light came on but it wont respond to the thumb control. Is there a test I can do to find a error code? I did replace my grip's and I am wondering if I screwed up something inside the handlebar control. I replaced my Bar's a couple year's ago and everything worked just fine and I'm confident on my wiring because I did not have to splice them !!! I'm frustrated please help.:wacko:

when you put your grips on if you did not get the idle cable adjusted correct it may be keeping the roll off switch on not allowing your cruise to engage, may want to check cable adjustment. LoneEagle

Check to make sure that your brake switch isnt broken...your brake lights will be on even though you apply the brakes...the brake switch in the housing on the bars is very delicate and breaks easy... Paul

thank's for the input guy's I appreciate it. I should have mentioned that My bike is fly by wire 2010. But I will check the brake switch that is a good point.

Check the shop manual. If I remember correctly, there is a diagnosis chart. When you go into the trouble codes through the speedometer, one of the options is cruise trouble shooting. The switches, etc. can be tested this way.

There is also a switch on the clutch side..........

The cruise control wasn't working when I got the bike out. 2007 Ultra. Light wouldn't go green, just stayed red. Took it to the dealer. Quick diagnosis and told my "idle control cable" was bad. $45 part. Just a bit over 1 hour to replace. Works fine now. They did give me my old part and there is a contact switch that was a "bit" green on the cable. I think if I knew it was there, I might have been able to spray some contact cleaner on the switch (hides under a rubber hood) and I might have been good to go. You learn.....

Your bike has throttle cables. The OPs bike is throttle by wire.

I recently changed to mini apes and did the internal wiring. On first ride out to test operation of all the switches (lights, signals, cruise, etc) I thought I had a problem with the cruise control. Turns out you have to be above a certain mph for the cruise to activate. At first I tried at 28mph down my neighborhood street and the cruise did not engage. It was not until I got out on a bigger street at 45mph and all worked out perfectly. Glad I did not just ride back to the garage and tear everything apart to check the connections.

I believe the owner's manual says 30 mph is the minimum speed for engagement.

Thank's Megawatt for the input. I did think of that actually and it didnt make a difference. I am out of town right now so I cant look into the problem of maybe a clutch switch or brakelight switch issue. I will update here if I can figurte it out. Thank's everyone.

I had the same problem.... then suddenly it worked, the next day it didn't.... 2009 FLHTP I went through all of the wiring and checked everything I could and finally gave up and took the ride of shame to my dealer. They found that a connector had been bent up at some point during the install and the pins had corroded a bit. They ordered new pins 3 weeks ago...... still waiting...... either way, check all of your connectors.

There is no clutch switch on my old 2000.

It was the front brake light switch ! When I changed the grip's I didnt line up the brake lever bracket correctly with the switch housing it has a small tab that need's to fit into the housing and with aftermarket Monkey Bar's it allowed me have a small space between the switch housing and the brake lever bracket, therefore the switch was in the ON position. BTW the switch need's to be held in to be in the off position so if you are just a bit off like I was the brake light is always on. Thank God I didnt get rear ended. Thank's for the input as alway's very appreciative.

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Harley Davidson Touring: No Throttle Response

In 2008, Harley Davidson implemented a throttle by wire design, eliminating the throttle cable. One of the nice advantages of this system is electronic cruise control, but this design has its disadvantages, too, such as loose connections and broken sensors.

This article applies to the Harley Davidson Touring (2008-Present)

The fly by wire equipped Touring's use a twist grip sensor, electronic throttle control actuator (throttle body), and an engine computer to determine throttle input from the rider. The connections between these components must be good for normal engine operation. A frequently occurring problem was found with early throttle by wire system and a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) was released. This bulletin guides you through the diagnostic steps to determine what connection or component is creating your throttle problem.

Harley Davidson Touring No Throttle Response

Materials Needed

T-pin or similar probing tool
Dielectric grease
SAE socket set with ratchet

Step 1 – Check for diagnostic trouble codes

A diagnostic trouble code will help pinpoint the problem area. To check for diagnostic trouble codes, read the article How To Reset Check Engine Light. Codes that are often present when a problem in the throttle by wire system is detected are:

Record any present codes, erase the codes and continue to Step 2.

Step 2 – Reset the ECM/limp mode

Limp mode occurs when a system on your Touring is unable to provide enough information to the engine computer for proper operation. Limp mode acts as a back-up to keep your Touring drive-able while a problem is present. Limp mode is a common occurrence during throttle by wire problems. Your Touring is most likely in limp mode if:

The throttle is unresponsive, or
engine RPM'S drop to 1500.

Sometimes, an ECM reset will restore normal operation. To reset your ECM, read the article How To Reset The ECM . Another option is to remove the negative (black) battery cable for five minutes. With normal operation restored, you can safely drive your Touring back home or to a dealer or shop.

Step 3 – Check wiring between gas tank and backside of faring

There is a zip tie between these two components that secures the wiring harness to the frame. The zip tie has been known to not allow enough travel when the handle bars are fully turned. In effect, the wiring breaks as it's being stretched and rubbed by the zip tie.

Locate the zip tie between the gas tank and backside of faring. Rotate the handle bars and ensure the wiring harness is not being pulled during the full range of motion. If it is, remove the zip tie and install a looser fitting zip tie. Inspect, replace and/or re-connect the wiring as needed.

You can see how a sheath has been placed over the wiring harness to protect it from the zip tie

Step 4 – Troubleshoot according to TSB TT418A

This Technical Service Bulletin applies to 2008 and newer Touring models. It covers the procedures to inspect and test the systems that commonly cause little or no throttle response. You can read the entire TSB here , or click over to the Harley website and look up recalls and TSBs for your bike based on the VIN here . Briefly, here is what it says:

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) circuit DTC's P0120, P0220, P0122, P0123, P0222 and P223 should take diagnostic priority over a P2135 code. If any of these TPS codes exist concurrently with the P2135, they should be investigated first using the diagnostic manual.

P2135 - The Throttle Control Actuator has two potentiometers (designated as TPS1 and TPS2) and a electric DC motor for controlling the actuation of the throttle. The two TPS sensors work opposite of each other; TPS1 voltage ranges from 0.0-5.0 Volts, while TPS2 voltage ranges from 5.0-0.0 volts. The sum of the two TPS voltages should always measure approximately 5.0 volts. TPS1, pin # 37 (Brown/Violet wire) of the ECM, and TPS2 pin #36 (Brown/Red wire) of the ECM.

With the connectors plugged in to the TCA and the ignition on, probe the brown/violet wire on sensor 1. Use a t-pin or similar tool to make contact with the wire. Set your meter to D.C. volts and read the voltage while moving the throttle actuator plate manually. Repeat the same test for sensor two. Corrosion is a major contributor of this problem. A poor connection at the Throttle Control Actuator (TCA) can also affect the sensor voltages.

Repair Procedure:

Wiggle the TCA [211] and the ECM [78] connectors. Measure the voltage at each sensor.
If the voltage changes while wiggling the ECM connector, replace the affected ECM terminals (part # 72605-08).
If no voltage change is noted while moving the ECM connector, the connection issue could be in the TCA. Replace all socket terminals with NEW terminals (part # 72663-11, used in current production).
BEFORE CONNECTING the TCA CONNECTOR, clean the male TCA pin terminals with a swab and alcohol, and ASSEMBLE WITH DIELECTRIC GREASE.

DTC P2101 - Each TPS supplies input to the ECM in response to the position of the throttle plate. The ECM activates the motor in the TCA to move the throttle plate, based on signals from the Twist Grip Sensor (TGS). When the ECM send voltage to pins 2 and 3 of the TCA to move the throttle motor, it checks for TPS1 and TPS2 voltage changes. If it does not sense TPS changes, it will set this code.

Verify that the throttle plate moves freely when engine is not running. If it does not, the TCA needs to be replaced.

Poor ECM connections seem to be the most likely cause and may be aggravated by the seat pan making contact with the ECM connector. Often, this is due to the installation of an aftermarket seat. It may be possible to cut out a portion of your seat above the ECM connector to prevent contact.

A poor connection at ECM pins #29 and 30 could cause an interruption in voltage to the throttle motor and set this code. The ECM uses voltage from pin #52 yellow/green wire to supply power at pins #29 and 30, causing the same symptoms.

Repair Procedure: Identifying the connection issues at this location may be difficult.

Replace all socket terminals with NEW terminals (part #72663-11 used in current production) at the TCA connector [211B].

Step 5 – Inspect and test the twist grip sensor

The fly by wire Touring models use a sensor in the right handle bar grip to measure twist grip movement. To access the sensor, you'll need to disassemble the right handle bar grip. Read Step 6 of the article How To Install Handlebars for twist grip removal.

With the twist grip removed, you'll see a green connector. Unplug the connector and measure the resistance between the gray and red wires. Do the same for the black and brown wires. A reading of OPEN or "OL" indicates the twist grip sensor needs to be replaced.

If the resistance reading at the twist grip sensor is normal, make sure continuity is present throughout the wiring's path to the ECM by measuring at these points:

Black/grey wire at female connector on twist grip sensor to black/grey wire on ECM (pin 62).
Violet and yellow wire on twist grip sensor to violet/yellow wire on ECM (pin 39).
Red/white wire on twist grip sensor to red/white wire on ECM (pin 68).
Black/white wire on twist grip sensor to black/white wire on ECM (pin 61).
Blue/green wire on twist grip sensor to blue/green wire on ECM (pin 59).
Brown/orange wire on twist grip sensor to brown/orange wire on ECM (pin 50).

If the reading Open or "OL" is present on any of these six wires, there is a break in the wiring.

Related Discussions

Fly by Wire Throttle Failure - HDForums.com
No Throttle Response - HDForums.com
Word of Warning for 2010 Touring Bikes - HDForums.com

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Cruise control not working again

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had this same problem a while back and that cause was the accessory fuse blown. well the fuse is good but i put a new one in anyway. brake light is not stuck on so its not the foot pedal switch. open up the switch compartment and the little piece that always seems to break that sits in the slot on the brake handle is not broken. dont see a crimped or broken wire , but how would that happen if it was never messed with. so i am stumped. when i turn on the switch on the dash it lights up red like it should, but when i engage the switch it doesnt turn green and obviously it doesnt work. the only code showing is for the cruise control fault so i am guessing its the switch ? with the fall riding season upon us and the leaves may turn color eventually :wink: i would like to have it working. if not for that, i would just wait till winter time to mess with it.

Any changes in grips, bars, etc. ? Obviously something is shorting out the accessory circuit? Or the cruise control switch is damaged Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

while sitting in the shed i also pulled clutch in light went to green. pulled brake in,light went to green. foot brake depressed, green light again. nothing was done to it. been using it since fuse replaced sometime ago. just stopped working

Hmm seems to be working in opposite, I’d bet on an ecm fault Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you do something prior to the fuse blowing? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

nope but that was 2 years ago

P0577 Code means there is an electrical fault in the cruise control circuit due to a failed switch, or abnormal voltage level in the input circuit.

I had the same problem with my 2012 Custom. I found the front brake light switch was bad so I did a quick repair and all was well for a while. When the cruise stopped working again I used the Harley diagnostic check and found the set/resume switch was faulty. I replaced both the front brake lamp switch and the set/resume switch and all has been well ever since. I'll list below the Diagnostic Steps I used. Hope this helps. Mike U. 1. Hold cruise switch in the SET position. 2. Turn the cruise ON. 3. Turn the main power switch on, the cruise light should initially come on then turn GREEN, release the cruise switch the light will turn RED. 4. Push the cruise switch to RESUME the light should turn GREEN, release the switch, the light should turn RED. 5. Roll the throttle OFF make sure you roll it off to activate the cutoff switch for the cruise, the light should turn GREEN, release the throttle the light should turn RED. 6. Apply the front brake, the light should turn GREEN, release it, the light should turn RED. What you have done is test each of the SWITCHES that are in the cruise system. If, during any of the tests, the light does not turn GREEN, then that part is at fault.

so again i went outside and did all the diagnostic with light going from red to green an d all does. took it apart again and made sure the plunger is still there and plunges. no signs of frayed wire. stopped at a guy that does harley customizing in the neighborhood and he said he would change out the switch assembly. so either i spend the 200.00 and try and change it and hope its the problem or take it to the stealer and fork out more money to be certain. i have not found a video on line for the change out. anybody have a link to one ?

If you have external wiring, it's a breeze If you do. (Plug & Play) If you don't,good luck! The Plug is up in the fairing. Taking the fairing off is the longest part of the job.

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Harley-Davidson Electronic Throttle Control

In 2008 Harley-Davidson introduced a new throttle system called Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) , which eliminates the throttle cables connecting the throttle and the throttle body and replaces them with an electronic connection. ETC is standard on all 2008 and 2009 touring models, including CVO touring models.

Four years ago a group of engineers set out to clean up the appearance of the big bikes’ handlebars. One item that really caught their eye was the throttle and return cable. Modifying or replacing them would go a long way toward making the bars less cluttered. The engineers also wanted to increase reliability and preciseness in the new system. The path they chose was built on relationships they have with both Delphi Corporation and Magneti Marelli.

When the project began, Magneti Marelli already had over one million electronic throttles on the road, mostly in over-the-road trucks operating in Europe. Delphi’s contribution would come in the form of technology and electronics used to enhance the system.

The ETC system consists of two main components; the throttle-grip sensor, and the throttle-control actuator. The throttle-grip sensor is made by Delphi, and the throttle-control actuator is manufactured in South Carolina by Magneti Marelli. The throttle-grip sensor is a cylindrical component housed inside the right end of the handlebar. The unit is spring loaded to return to idle, and includes two sets of magnetic sensors that send signals to the electronic control module. The throttle-grip sensor is keyed to the handlebar with a series of notches cut into the bar that mate with bosses on the throttle-grip sensor. The throttle-control actuator includes a geared, permanent-magnet DC motor, and two sealed automotive-style throttle-position sensors mounted to the side of the throttle body. The electronic control module, which controls the motorcycle’s electronic functions, allows the throttle-grip sensor to communicate with the throttle-control actuator.

Motorcycle enthusiasts are no different from the rest of the population when it comes to change; some embrace it, while others resist it. ETC immediately raised concerns among the latter group. What if the throttle sticks open? What if it sticks closed? Can I change out the handlebar? How much more will this cost me in the long run? For the answers to these questions, and to learn more about how ETC works, I contacted Portfolio Architect Lance Onan and Senior Project Engineer Scott Koerner at Harley-Davidson.

One of the first and most important items addressed by Lance was the redundancy built into the system. He explained that there are two separate sets of magnetic sensors housed in the throttle-grip sensor, two throttle-position sensors at the throttle body, and two separate circuits built into the electronic control module. “As the throttle is opened by the rider, the sensors sense the presence of a magnetic field. This is known as the Hall effect—there are no contacts, brushes, or wipers to malfunction. At the throttle body, two separate throttle-position sensors compare the position of the throttle plate and verify that it is in the position called for by the magnetic sensors in the throttle-grip sensor. There is a control loop built in to the electronic control module that provides constant feedback as it monitors the system some 200 times a second. The system looks at both the bottom (throttle-control actuator), and at the top (throttle-grip sensor), so there’s redundancy at either end. The system is constantly comparing those conditions and looking for a failure mode.”

I asked if it were possible for the system to open or close the throttle plate without the input from the rider. “The only way that could happen would be if the grip were actually rotated and held in a particular position,” Scott told me. “If you look at the possibility of short circuits causing something like that where it looks like it’s as open as it can be, the ECM ignores that. If the voltage gets over a certain threshold it (the electronic control module) doesn’t believe that input any more because it knows that can’t happen through normal actuation of the sensor; that can only happen through an electrical fault.”

ETC has various advantages over traditional systems. It requires no maintenance, there are no cables to adjust, lubricate, or replace, and the system has an indefinite life span. Throttle positioning is far more accurate than it is with a cable system. This is beneficial for EPA testing as one of the tests involves riding the motorcycle on a dyno to simulate real-world conditions. In this situation it’s possible to hold the bike at a particular rpm more easily and accurately than before, leading to cleaner tailpipe emissions.

ETC interfaces with cruise control differently from the previous throttle cable set-up. Prior to 2008 there was a separate cruise-control module that operated the throttle plate by means of a long cable. The new system eliminates the module and operates the throttle plate via the electronic control module. The cruise control on ETC models works far better than on previous units; gone is the surging and variation in speed as the system is engaged or encountering hills. It operates very smoothly, and changes in engine rpm are barely perceptible.

Built into the system is a reset function. If the ignition is turned off with the throttle in a position other than 0 percent throttle, the system wants to use a higher rpm as the new idle speed the next time the engine is started. If you shut the bike off at 1,800 rpm, the next time you start the engine it will use approximately 1,400 as the new idle speed. To keep this from occurring you can reset the idle by turning on the ignition switch until the fuel pump cycles on and off, then turning off the ignition. Repeat this three times and the idle speed will be reset to normal, 1,000 rpm. The ETC system only works with handlebars that have the notches that mate with the throttle-grip sensor; it will not work on traditional handlebars. Harley offers various handlebar bends for the new system. For certain applications they also offer a throttle-grip sensor with longer wires (43-1/4 inches long, Part No. 32308-08, $89.95), which connects directly to the stock wiring harness without an extension harness. Swapping grips on bikes equipped with ETC requires the purchase of grips designed specifically for ETC applications.

In the real world the ETC feels much the same as a traditional throttle. There are some subtle differences, however; the perception of these differences seems to vary from person to person. Most of these perceptions have to do with throttle response at lower rpm. What I find most notable is the quick drop-off in rpm when I back off the throttle at slower speeds and when shifting gears. When rolling off the throttle, the engine slows more quickly than I’m used to, which has a tendency to pitch my weight forward a bit. This can also be felt when hitting bumps that cause my hand to roll the throttle on or off, causing the bike to jerk a bit. These are not major issues, just something to be cognizant of when operating the motorcycle. Another mechanical difference is the fact that the throttle grip is returned to its zero position with a built-in spring instead of springs mounted on the throttle body. Since the new spring does not have to overcome friction and wear of the cables, it snaps back with more authority and has a different feel than the previous system.

While none of these conditions are particularly earth shattering, they will take a little time to get used to. Some riders will be barely able to perceive the differences between ETC and a traditional cable setup, while others will notice a difference as soon as they roll on the throttle for the first time. No matter what your take is on this, you will have to go with it if you want to ride a new touring machine. Considering Harley has a tendency to introduce new features on a limited basis before introducing them to the entire line, I would expect to see ETC (as was the case with EFI) to be standard fare on all of Harley’s bikes in the not too distant future. So roll with it and enjoy all the benefits that come with this new technology.

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What actually causes the failures to occur with this throttle system? Does a sensor go bad or the entire system fail? My dealer “didn’t find anything wrong”? However it happens intermittenly with no warning. Any suggestions?

Dealer claims they can only check it while it is in failure or they have “no clue” so who does? Got a feeling HD better jump on this quick before all the lawsuits start piling up. I just want mine fixed while still in 5 year warranty!

Hi, my name is Greg Smith and I live in Denlilquin, Australia. I had a stroke in 2009. I have little use of my right arm and I have a 2008 FLHCU Ultra Classic Harley Davidson. Firstly, I have to go from right to left throttle (fly wire). The problem I have is that when the fly wire is put on the left hand side it has to be throttled forward rather than the normal backwards. Do you have any suggestions as my mechanic says that this will be problem. Any help would very appreciated.

Greg Smith.

I my name is Greg Smith and I live in Denlilquin, Australia. I had a stroke in 2009. I have little use of my right arm and I have a 2008 FLHCU Ultra Classic Harley Davidson. Firstly, I have to go from right to left throttle (fly wire). The problem I have is that when the fly wire is put on the left hand side it has to be throttled forward rather than the normal backwards. Do you have any suggestions as my mechanic says that this will be problem. Any help would very appreciated.

Greg Smith. I h

Hi Greg! I’ve the same problem like you. I’m driving a Sporty and I’d like a Touring Model with new connectet brake system. Did you find a solutions to move the ETC throttle on the left side?

Hi Ale – did u find a solution for left handed ETC?? I am currently trying to solve the same problem…

John, On my 011 flrtu I replaced the throttle wiring harness with a cvo wire coming from the grip, this gets rid of the green connector that is stock. That worked for about 2k miles, then it started acting up again. Back to the dealer. They checked everything replaced all sensors and ecm. That worked for about 1500 miles then back to the dealer, then replaced the abs sensors, worked for about 2 k miles , back to the dealer. This was at about 11k miles warranty was up. The dealer worked with me and replaced the throttle body under an epa warranty , coming up on 23k miles with no more issues. I knew the throttle body was bad from the get go based on what I read in the TB. But for some reason they chose not to replace it until last. Happy now hope this helps

I have a 2008 FLHTCU with ETC. The bike has 20,000 miles on the clock and is going to my dealer for the 3rd time for a problem with the ETC. This time it started acting up 360 mi. from home on a Sunday. Was able to override the system by cycling the ignition. Made it home ok but am fed up with this system. Does anyone know of a recall from HD? Have you a similar story?

my bike has 37000 on it, be crusin about 55 and lose my revs, stays running but dose not rev up , let it set for 5 mins and it ok

My bike has 18000 on it and just did same thing last weekend. Any answers yet?

Yes I have a 2009 ultra Classic and it would not run over 1000 rpm’s I got it home shut it off when I restarted it it ran normal. I hope it doesn’t happen again. I would love to see a recall

My 2010 ultra classic did same thing last weekend. Any answers yet?

it will happin again something w throtle body but trust these things don’t go away fix it now befor you get stuck somwher

Luke..my bike is the same year model and I have 96,000 and started having throttle problems about 4 months ago. It appeared to be when I tried to override the cruise when I would have the cruise control set and then when I wanted a little more speed to get by a vehicle I gave it throttle without disengaging the cruise control (this is what I thought was the problem), it turns out that was just a coincidence. All of a sudden the engine would just go to idle, it did it three times today so now I’m taking my bike to HD and they are supposed to be able to diagnose based on the bikes “engine light history” but we shall see.

I have an 011 Road Glide Ultra and have had nothing bu trouble with the Throttle by wire. First three times it would go full throttle, all three times were while performing low speed manuevers to the left. alos had issues with throttle going to idle speed with no throttle response. I removed the green plug and hard soldered the wires. Worked for 6k miles, unitl day before yesterday, now going to idle with no throttle response. Out of warranty now. I’m stuck. Going to trade in it in for something with cables. This setup is just not safe!!!!

My local dealer has really been helping me out. They called the motor company and the decision was made to replace the throttle body. Which was done last week at no charge to me. So, to date, all sensors have been replaced, the ECM has been replaced, the ABS module has been replaced. A Screming Eagle twist grip harness has been installed. and of course the throttle body. All that’s left is the main wring harness. If it happens again, I’m enforcinng the lemon law, The dealer that has been working with me, agreed with the lemon law enforcement if I have more trouble.. Also had to replace my front wheel bearing (13k miles). turns out between 08 and 011 wheel bearing were bad (made in India) in 012 they were upgraded! no made in south Korea.

Hi Good to hear that there are dealers who live the brand and go the lengths to ensure that the rideis in optimum working order.

In India it looks like the dealer is the king and any one raises any questions with the quality of service li. I did gets severed iff and does nt get any form of support even though it is a certified Authorised dealership in Bangalore India.

Thus is one brand of motorcycle where I cannot buy a spares from a local Authorized dealer what a shame and the best part is that the blokes in USA are keeping quite there is loads of issues here and the wonderful brand HD image us getting screwed we a bunch of 100 bikers across the country are looking to get to gethrr

For a while now, when I roll off to disengage cruise, my throttle ratchets. Today it started ratcheting when I roll on. Is there any way to adjust the gear on the throttle?

I have a 2008 flhx Street Glide two or three times a season i loose throttle control engin still run when i turn the bike off for thirty seconds the i gain control to the throttle again, does any body have this same problem let me know thank you and ride SAFE.

yes had that problem today , shut off for 1 min. all ok. Happen 1 year ago . going to pull tsb plug and clean and do dialectic grease hope works for another year

Yeah mine was tha twist gripe sensor.easy to change . Have to use a paper clip straightened out for plug ends.. but now , same problem, but now it’s also starter going out .. just one thing after another with this 09 Electra glide.. sheeuuueee!!!

my 2008 flht has icon key for alarm illuminated when in motion need some kind of help

I have a 08 Ultra with 25000 miles. I just started having this problem wirh the electronic throttle control. Was out on the road, acted up twice. Came home , looked it up on Fix My Hog. They said to clean and lube pin connector. Did that, did not solve problem. I tried turning ignition off and on three times. Did not work either. Disconnected battery to reset computer. Took it for a test ride,so far. so good.

hey is still working for you?

Hello Fellow riders I AM DOWN HERE IN PALMDLE CALIFORNIA and I have had that same throttle problem twice now. and it is pissing me off because I have had to pay out of my pocket to have it towed to the Harley dealer to basically have them give me a bill but no explanation as to the problem. and on top of that the first time it happened I had another issue that they were clueless about witch happened to be my butterfly in my throttle body was stuck closed to were apparently you couldn’t just push it open with your finger you had to lightly tap on it. and of course Harley had no explanation for that issue either so basically my friends what I am getting at is if it were to take us all to get together to hopefully just maybe get a recall going .if your with me comment back !!!!!

i am with you

same problem with my 2011 trike with same story!

2010 street glide, 16000 miles. same problem intermitten. told it is the connecter under cowl. throws mine into limited mode. 25 mph. No permanent fix except to replace pins in connecter, with limited success. also clean connecter and apply electro grease. Still looking for a fix. Problem is in the connecter. One member said after pins replaced he got 4000 miles before it started happening again. Harley needs to address this dangerous. Last time it happened to me I was doing freeway speeds and nearly got hit.

The old train of thought is if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. I answer the phone all day at a bike shop here in central Florida and I’ve been listening to a bunch of guys bitching about this fly by wire system. What I’m seeing is a nightmare waiting to happen. I picked up a bike about a week ago due to the throttle issue. I actually never rode one that had this new system on it. Wow to my surprise I almost went over the front of the trailer because of this nightmare. The guy called me again today and his sled quit accelerating after he hit a bump. I’m thinking after reading this article that Harley needs to fess up and fix this nightmare before it kills someone. This is what happens when you over engineer any product. I want to know what these guys were thinking (or lack of) when the were sitting around looking at the bike thinking there were too many wires messing up the handlebars. No matter what anyone thinks there is a major malfunction in the works at the factory. If there isn’t a recall then they just don’t give a rats ass about the rider and his family. I know one thing I’ll never own one because sometimes you need to get and I’m sure I’ll be got!!

i am with you ,back to honda

Just started having a problem with the throttle all of a sudden it goes into a high idele and I ha e to stop. Restarted the bike and all was OK but within a mile same thing. Sat ten min and got her going and rode home 30 miles in a hard rain and she did OK. I have a 08 ultra classic. Is this a high dollar fix and how hard is it to do I know how to fix something’s . any advise would really help. Thank you Jim

Can I cut my handlebars 3/4 of an inch, throttle side, if I notch it as it was?

I have a “new to me” 2013 Harley Ultra, it has 11,000 miles on it and worked fine until today. I took a 15 mile ride to the hardwear store and parked my bike in the lot, it was hot, in the 90’s. Upon my return I started my bike normally and went to pull into traffic when I had no throttle, the grip just turned in my hand and nothing but an idle was produced. I had enough momentum from the initial start to pull alongside the road and stop. I had no throttle response whatsoever, it felt like the entire grip just turned in my hand, round and round. I noticed my clutch grip did the same thing, just turned so easy I could have pulled the grip right off the handlebar. I rotated the throttle until it felt like it had a slight resistance and still no response. I thought because the left grip was so loose that the GRIP ITSELF was not in position, so I TAPPED ON THE END OF THE GRIP and all of a sudden I had throttle response again, THIS HAPPEND ABOUT 25 TIMES, LONG ENOUGH TO GET ME HOME. I stopped the bike in my garage and restarted it, there is a slight bit of resistance but it worked O K. I stopped it and restarted it with the same result only this time when testing the throttle limit it would stick at a high rpm. The one thing I did notice was that the throttle would NOT rotate as it did in the parking lot and I could not rotate the throttle BACKWARDS like I could in the lot. COULD THERE BE A PROBLEM WITH THE GRIP COMING OUT OF PLACE WITH THE THEROTTLE POSITIONING PLATE THAT IS SUPPOSWED TO RESIDE WITHIN THE HANDLEBAR CUT OUT? When the grips get hot (summer heat) can the grip slide out of position making the throttle come out of position? Right now the throttle grip does NOT do what it did in the hot parking lot because it is in a cool garage. Has anyone else had the same problem?

Your grip was not installed in enough to engage the throttle , so your control housing is not in board enough on the handle bars to let your grip be where it needs to be..

I have an 08 Ultra. Bought it 2 years ago with 34k on it. Started having problems with this ‘limp’ mode this spring. Took my bike in for it’s 50k service and dealer replaced pins and said it should be fine. It’s happened several times since without warning. Sometimes when I’m going through the gears and sometimes when I’m running at full speed. The other day it happened 3 times in 4 miles. It’s at the dealer now and they see the code where it lost throttle response but they do not see anything wrong with the bike. Said the throttle body unit could be replaced to see if it is the problem…but the throttle body on it checks out to be fine. I’m not paying $ 1,000 for someone to guess the problem. I shouldn’t have to pay at all to fix something that is clearly a problem across the globe with this system. Recall? I wonder how many used bikes with this problem gets traded in with no record of this problem, only to have the problem handed down to some poor sap like me who now has to front the problem from his own pocket? I want my Harley fixed…but if it can’t be fixed and the manufacturer won’t acknowledge the issue…my next bike may be native American.

call my dealer today about there problem and SAFETY on this throttle thing and limp mode he said there is still no RECALL, WE NEED TO START SUING HARLEY DAVIDSON

i am with you buddy!

Mervin, I found a problem with my 2013 Harley Ultra throttle response. I think mine was caused by the throttle grip itself coming disengaged with the “fly by wire” throttle plate. The groves in the handgrip itself was not engaging the groves in the throttle plate in the handlebar itself. The throttle plate itself is not secured in my handlebar and is loose in the groves meant to house it. The time mine did it the weather was very hot and both handgrips were very loose on the bar. I found that if the whole throttle assembly is not in the right position ( must be all the way pushed on the throttle plate within the bar) and it is hot enough to expand the grip the connection between the throttle plate and the groves in the handgrip there is a much greater chance for the throttle grip to become disengaged and you will lose throttle response AND YOUR CONFIDENCE IN YOUR BIKE. I believe this is what happened with the previous owner of my bike. I found that the past owner had dropped the bike on the throttle side, there was no damage except for some paint scratches on the saddle bag under the crash bar and the engine guard. I found the whole right grip had been replaced but was not in the correct position on the bar. After finding some teeth broken on the inside of the grip I repositioned the grip and made sure the whole assembly was in the proper relationship with the grip itself. Make sure the grip rotates properly AND WITHOUT ANY STICKING SPOTS. Test the rotation of the grip MANY times without the engine being on, when confident it will not stick try it with the engine on, again make sure the grip returns to idle easily and by itself. Try this if you feel confident enough, it is not very hard to accomplish and will save you time money AND MAKE YOU MORE CONFIDENT IN YOUR RIDING ABILITY.

I have a new 2015 street glide and i use a vane and hines fp3 tuner true duals and slash cut slip ons. I noticed the tear cylinder dropping out at red lights. And was told its a feature i was un aware of and it could be dissabled by turning my grip forward well my grip did not go forward so i applied alot of pressure i heard a snap and low and behold it now rolled forward and dissabled the parade mode. But now ith bike funs like crap. Idle varies and front cylinder dont start firing unyil i turn the throttle about 1/4 turn . No matter what map i flash it is like the front cylinder needs mor throttle to start firing. I think theres a problem with it. I double check my camalignment because i installed s&s 585 easy starts. Opinions pleas i am considering buyin a new tps.

I don’t know about your 2015 but my 2011 CVO Road Glide Ultra does not have a TPS that is replaceable they are built in the TCA and are not serviceable

does my 2012 Harley triglide have the electronic throttle or is it cable operated thanks I want to change the handlebar grips bui I don’t know what to get thanks

My 2012 Road King off the throttle my bike did’nt slow down caused a accident. Has anyone else had this prolbem.

I have a 15 St Glide throttle went out with only 4500 miles on it Thankfully I wouldn’t but 8 miles from home. Would only sit an idle.Local dealer picked it up next day.Since fix throttle don’t feel the same an idles up an down. Also went through procedure of getting the idle set where it wouldn’t cut back cylinder off.Now amp hand is fluxawaiting.Wish I’d kept my 06 Ultra 60,000miles an never no problems

I have a 2008 road glide. Loss of throtle occurs after i wash the bike or when I get caught in rain. When thisnhappens I pull over turn bike off wait a fre seconds and restart. Throtle comes back. There is a plug behind air filter that can get moisture built up inside. I sprayed with dia letric cleaner. It has not happened since. As for the odd times when idlle stays at 1400rpm. I shut bike off turn switch on and let fuel injection start, turn switch off 3 times and idle will reset to 1000rpm. Hope this helps. BTW i stoped at a harley dealer and they just wanted to replace all kinds of parts for no reason.

Hi all. I have an electra ultra glide 1584 model 2011,i’ve had her for 2 months, 13000 on the clock,it went back to the dealer with the engine management light on, it worked out the cruise control switch needed replacing,on its return,it wont respond to (yes it goes,60 to 90 takes forever), quick throttle reaction (blimping the throttle). HD dealer cant understand it,they only touched the cruise switch.Pleased i read with page. My first Harley may be my last

I have a 2011 CVO Road Glide Ultra with 46,000 miles on it. it’s starting to get almost unridable with its bucking(it is like you turned the key off then back on), backfiring, popping and stalling when you come to a stop. It is out warranty. I don’t want to take it to the parts replacers(HDDealers) on my dime. I want a recall. It cost $38,000.00 and has been an electrical nightmare since day. 2 navigation interface module, 3 Ipod interface modules, a garage door controler and receiver, high beam/ low beam switch, security problem(new FOBs), heated hand grips are not working now, every ride I have to disconnect and reconnect the Ipod because the stereo doesnot recognise it. The security doesn’t recognize the FOBs if I keep them on my person( the fobs have a home in the TourPak and that seems to fix that problem). Not to mention it is on its 4th battery(2 replaced under warranty). And now with TBW thing I am so fed with this thing.

I want Harley-Davidson to step up to the plate like they should.

If anyone knows a good class action lawyer I am in!

I’m in. I have an 08 Flhrc with tbw. Sometimes on startup it will be stuck in limp mode and will not throttle out of it. I have to turn it on and off three times to get it to reset. Now its at the local shop after it died on me going down the highway. It would start, rev really high and shut down. Mechanic is checking the actuator plug as the plastic clip has broken off. I think its in the twist sensor or in the actuator itself. Bought the bike used a year ago and have had nothing but troubles out of the tbw.

I had the same trouble last year 2008 rioad glide. Added dielectric grease in plug behind air filter. never had issue again

2013 Road Glide with maybe 8K miles.. Caught in rain for a few blocks, but then sat in drive in rain that evening, next morning, zero throttle. Checked it a few hours later, I get rough idle, and throttle has only one rpm response whether wide open or just cracked, no change through rest of day. It is Central FL so its steamy high humidity and August, so no dry air at all. I will check it in a couple days, try to disconnect battery and let system reset and see what I get. But is MORE than obvious this system is bad! Harley needs to show some devotion just as we all do! Brothers need to get the car guys OUT OF THE SHOP!!

What a load of shit! Computers have no place in any motorized vehicle, bike, car of truck. They are impossible to fix when they decide you do not need to use the bike and ungodly expensive to repair or replace. It STILL comes down to “IF IT AIN’T BROKE DON’T FIX IT”. Everything worked well before computers on bikes and it still should. Shitcan the electronics and go back to the perfectly working manual controls!

Same problem on my 2009 road glide, bought it used, ran great, then last year at approximately 36,000 miles it started going into limp mode. I replaced the pins on the plug to the throttle body and it ran fine for a while. I have 40k miles on it now and it’s happening again, so I cut the green plug out of the twist grip sensor and hard wired it, cleaned the terminals on the actuator with alcohol, put die electric grease on the pins. It ran good for about 100 miles now same thing. This has happened to me while passing , and just going down the road with the cruise control on. Harley really needs to step up before someone gets seriously injured, or killed. I have worked at dealerships and know how they operate.

I too am struggling with this same issue.. just bought an 08 road king … ran great for 100 miles,been crapping out ever since. i go about 25 miles and the light comes on,p1511 and 2135..replaced pins yesterday with silver ones.. same thing. Now im just going to change the whole damned tca and see what happens…nothing like having your bike quit while your in traffic…this is unreal !!

I have a ultra Classic CVO 2010, untill two days ago after i washed the bike (ordinary) and ride the bike about 10 minutes the bike went in to “limp mode”. This was the first time it happend and I have ride this bike across Europe with no issues whats so ever. I have run the dignostic test and get some fault codes that describes this problem. P1356, P1511, P2135. I’m gonna try cleaning the sensors and put some electronic-grease on as a first trying to solve this problem. I have riding Harley Davidson bikes my whole life (30 years) and love those hog’s. But I must say, after my reasurch about this problem and what I have understand ,the Harley Davidson company have not showing any good will and have not take any responsibilty to inform the aftermarket. It’s sad.

// Niclas (Swedish)

Just found my problem. The wire harness that is connected to the throttle plate the wires are not protected right there. Black & white wire is broke. This area catches alot of heat. So new wire harness it is I guess.

I just got a 2013 Ultra Limited 7000 miles on it. When I accelerate while already moving, (not from a dead stop but going down the road) it seems as if the rpm’s jump up and then the bike takes off. It feels like a brief pause between the acceleration and take off. Is this a transmission slip or normal for an electronic throttle?

I have a 2008 Road Glide with fly by wire. Had issues with it and installed the Vance and Hines FP3 tuner. I had to send the map back to the V&H techs twice. The second time around i loaded the map and could not beleive the results.. Awesome throtle response at all speeds. Highly recomend. It beats paying $1500.00 FOR DYNO TUNE..

Check this. The throttle “sleeve” has tiny grooves inside the very end of the sleeve itself. There is a “pick up” that sits in a cut out in the end of the handlebar itself. Sometimes the sleeve “slips” a little to far off the metal handlebar because the sleeve restraint is not set right. These tiny grooves MUST MATCH PROPERLY AND NOT BIND IN ANY WAY. or you will get an erratic throttle response. This “throttle by wire” is very precise and there is almost no room for error. Even when reinstalling the sleeve you must make sure you do not bend or warp the “pick up” because that could create a whole new very troubling problem, replacing the pick up itself. Good luck.

Is there a way to manually apply power to the throttle to get around the forced idle.

I have a 2 014 Tri-Glide , I changed the hand grips today and tried to start the bike to check for proper operation. I turned the ignition switch on to start the bike, the head light and tail lights came on but nothing else. The bike will not start and nothing else works. any ideas?

I just purchased a 2017softail with the same throttle system from a dealership. I was looking at the throttle system on line because I was going to change out handlebars and run in to your comments. Does anyone know if they had corrected any of this prior to 2017 models or has anyone with 17 0r 18 models still having these problems. I would really appreciate some info on this. Mine was a demo with just under 4000 miles on it.

Well today a friend with a 2008 Road King had this throttle problem happen, We disconnected harness at throttle body as suggested in search on internet. Connection looked and was put back together no change, When suggested to take it back off for another look we noticed that in fact the problem was with one of the wire on backside of pin connector was just about broke off, we macgyvered it back together and it worked fine as far as I know because guy was not to be seen after.

I have a 2012 Fatboy I bought new. It has under 5k miles still. Its intermittent but sometimes when I start it the throttle will be stuck wide open with no response on the actual throttle. Ive been on the road a few times and have worked the clutch to get it home. It seems to right itself after a few miles if I remember. I read the issue above on turning the bike off when the idle is high and the system setting that idle as the default startup. I understand the theory, I dint recall having a high idle speed when turning the switch off however. I also tried shutting the switch off and on several times with no response. I do recall a mechanical noise in the motor once or twice on startup when it occurred. Something like a very hard shift engage. I most always shift to neutral before turning the engine off, so Ive considered what the clank noise could be from when not in gear… possibly a vapor lock? Condition of sone sort. Ive racked my brain to resolve this issue with not a lot of results. Dealers saying they need to see it happen or web posters discussing but skirting the fix fo the problem. I know this is an old thread, but its given me more info than I found anywhere else of late. I’ ll try the reset steps noted above and shot down at normal idle. But any further info anyone has on this I would greatly appreciate… thanks again D Rise

I have a 2012 FLHTC that started having this FBW problem. The bike has 45K and I loved it. First time it happens, 45K, I started it and high idol, 1,600. Rode 60 mi and it seemed fine again. Next time was after starting it hot, high idol then nothing, limp mode. Sat for awhile and it fired up and was fine, but I went home. I read thread after thread and everyone said what I know, HD Dealers can guess, so can I, and say if it ain’t doin it we can’t fix it. I get it. I finally pulled a code out, throttle actuator control. Called a Stealership and they said that’s the twist grip sensor and they didn’t have it. I get one, screw around with Molex connectors for hours, and the new colored wires that dont match old ones and put it back together. Stealership gave me the wire positions sense the part came with no reference. Runs great. Went for a ride, shut the bike off to BS with my Bro’s, fired it back up and wham, same thing, limp mode, this time sounded like the feature that shuts off the rear cylinder kicked in, shut it off. Again, let it cool and ride it home. I can buy all the sensors the Stealership would replace guessing and charge me 300 bucks a sensor to replace but I can do that. This time pulled out 6 codes instead of one. An array of computer BS from what I saw from the code chart. I was looking for a temp sensor code, didnt have one. The next time I go for a ride I will have wife follow with trailer. Any ideas ?

My wife has a 2010 street bob, whilst on a ride the other day she was complaining of it running lumpy and bad vibration s through the bars, shortly afterwards whilst turning right it all of a sudden went to full throttle and launched her into a Bush and sign throwing her 10′ in the air and landed on a kurb stone she is now in hospital with a broken back.

i have the same throttle problem just idles ,,someone is going to gt killed ,, recall problem because theres so many going wrong what are they waiting for ..not building crediability with me first harley ,,always had japan products with very very few problems …if thers a fix gey it out there DA

These comments leave me shocked. I have a couple older Harleys with cables and was looking at a newer one for the wife. I guess I will stick with one with the old cables. BTW – Harley likes to say this “improved” system improves the looks and throttle response – the real reason they went to this, is newer riders tend to lug the motor, then apply lots of throttle. Thats hard on the bottom end. ETC wont let you do that. It will limit throttle application until revs are high enough to handle it. Sad they dont offer a retro fit back to cables.

new 2009 ‘ultra crap classic’ i traded for ’08 Goldwing Honda!!! 2 up & could not ride in the ‘hills for not enough power to take off from stop on any good hill; like in tx & ark. ….would have to slip cluth on take off & hope to get started..igot tired of of adjusting clutch so had a new spring put on “from Limited series; helped not to slip but not help take offx… went to 3 diff. ‘dealers to no avail….i had an upgraded $25+K bike that was not safe to ride in hills….only plus side ‘of Ultra C. Harley over the ‘Goldwing was (‘Harley had alot better xxx wind & rain Protection with any height wshield))……on the Honda my back & lower leg is soaked in light rain && never got wet on Harley in heavy rain untill u stopped…..this part is sad….i mis the Harley BUT w/not get another…Now im goto trade Goldwing “Windy” for a fishing boat thou i enjoyed the speed the honda has. “Gone Fishing”

Why can t we go back to cables by rebuilding carb and switching out the butterfly spring?

Can I build cable feeds instead of the twist grip by replacing sprigs on outside of carb?

I have a 2010 FLHXXX triglide that has the ETC throttle controls and I’m having issues with the throttle grip sticking and not coming back to idle,any ideas on the cause.

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2008 streetglide, I put on a cruise control and it will not work. veery thing is put together right, you drive it down the road and try to set the cruise say at 45 mpr and it will not turn on. it says in the manual when the cruise is on the cruise light in the tach will be lit up orange, mine does not light up at all. is there a fuse hidden some where else that i may not be aware of or what could it be?

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404 Answers
Posted on Jan 12, 2009

SOURCE: 05 RK CLASSIC DOES NOT START, HORN, BRKE LIGHT, CRUISE CONTROL .

Hi! From your brief description there could be many reasons for your Bagger not starting, Mine(FLHR 98) had a coil issue once however is the switch on the Bars above the starter button set to run? also which way are you turning the ignition as anti clock just puts on the side lights, pop it one click clockwise and oil battery lights should illuminate. Finally I hope the battery is fully charged? Fixya'd? If so press the Blue button, Cheer's Paul 'W' Onyer~EDson(:0)~[><U.K.

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479 Answers
Posted on Apr 13, 2009

SOURCE: How do you set the cruise control on my 2008 Road

You should have a cruise on and off switch on your dash unit, turn this on. a Red cruise indicator should come on on the tach or speedo. On the right hand set of controls you should have a set/resume rocker switch, Get the bike to the desired speed and push to the set, if you have done this correctly the small cruise indicator should come up Green on your tach or speedo. If you apply the brakes cruise will come off and the indicator will become red again. Get the bike up to speed and hit resume to return to desired speed. To alter speed while underway, the set / resume button also double as the accelerate / coast button. if you wist to increase your cruise speed move the button to the ACC position until the desired speed is acheived, same for reducing cruising speed, hold to the coast position until desired speed is met then release button. I don't believe the cruise will lock in if you are below 60kmph or 35mph, as it is meant for highway use.

Posted on Sep 13, 2009

SOURCE: 2008 road king classic, has 2 toggle switches on

It is for any thing you may wont to add like extra lighting or 12volt power. They are usually just wired with a hot wire in and a plug or post for you to add a 12v line to assory

269 Answers
Posted on Sep 16, 2009

SOURCE: my cruise control quit working. had cruise set,

Check the connection on your throttle cables. It is usually on the left side between the tank and the forks. It is pretty easy to spot as your cables are the same size then, the enlarged part there houses the connector. Clean thorughly, make sure connected well. verify the LEDs are lit when you have the cruise on, then verify other LED when engaged.

Posted on Sep 19, 2009

SOURCE: How to wire a tach on 05 heritage softail

Locate & route Black lead to ground / 2004-later softail: On the frame strap under the seat directly in front of the battery. Locate & route the pink lead to Signal / For 2004 & later FXST/C/I The #3 cavity in the connector {39b} on the back of the speedometer. The socket terminal on the signal (pk) lead fits the #3 cavity. Locate & route the Orange and white lead to power / Ummm.. it's saying for 2004 and later to adapt to the fuse block For earlier [ For 1996 to 2003 softail: locate the power lead (o/w) in the tail lamp pin connector {7a} under the seat behind the right rear corner of he battery.] "here you are looking to run it to a fused line, not directly to power/battery" I hope this helped.

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cruise control quit working

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Hi all, been awhile since my last posting or two cents worth for others.:biker: Anyway heres my problem, sold my 04 fatboy and bought a 06 ultra classic CVO about 2months ago. Bike is a low miler(9500) when I bought it so not much wear on it. Cruise was working great for about 1500 miles then quit engaging a couple days ago. Red light is lit on the tack and does not turn green showing engagement. throttle roll back is working properly, brake switches are also working ok. Checked the pins going into the control box to see if the switch was at fault, but I have continuity when I push the switch to set and resume.:feedback:

Try the switch diagnostics incorporated in the radio. Hold two radio buttons in while turning the ignition on then toggle to diagnostics. Press the handlebar switches one at a time to verify functionality.

Schmidtys, I tied that but the only switches that it diagnoses are the audio ones. Am I doing something wrong, or is an 06 to old a model to have that feature?

I had a similar problem on my old '04. Turned out to be a pinched wire in the right side handlebar.

My guess would be that neither the right or left handle bar switches have ever been messed with, could it be pinched from the factory?

Mine died, turned out to be the throttle position sensor. Located toward the neck of the bike on the throttle cable. Disconnected it, problem gone.

Gotgold, I believe you are referring to the throttle roll back switch. I already checked and it is working fine.

Throttle roll off.. sorry I can't ever remember the exact part name.

I just replaced the cruise control switch in the switch block. To diagnose I used the instructions below 1. bike off, run/stop to run 2. push set/resume to set and hold. 3 with cruise on/off switch to on, turn on bike 4. cruise indicator light should be green, release set switch, light should turn red. 5. push to resume and release, light should turn green then red 6. push throttle closed and release, light should turn green then red 7. push rear brake pedal and release, light should turn green then red 8. pull front brake lever, light should turn green then red 9. on models with a clutch/neutral starter lockout, pull clutch lever, light should turn green then red whichever switch does not turn the light green, is your bad one. if light will not turn green at all and you have followed ALL directions and tried multiple times, your set/resume switch is bad. If light stays green even after releasing set switch, one of the dropout switches is stuck closed, usually the roll off throttle switch. unplug this and try again. From the tests I was able to isolate the problem and replace the appropriate switch. Regards Wayne

so after going through all of the steps my light does not turn green when u pull the clutch in, so what is my next step so that i can fix the problem?

400web, when I follow these instructions here is what happens. 1- when I release set switch it stays green. 2- when I push resume it turns red and stays red after releasing. 3- when I push throttle closed turns red and stays red after releasing, I have also tried unplugging it. 4- both front and rear brakes turn red and stays red after releasing.

Are your brake lights working? Or are they ON all the time?

Hi Fatcat It sounds the same as what mine was doing, I ran the diagnosis a while ago and took a long time to get around to fixing the problem. I got the instructions from off the net and decided that it was the set/resume switch, which has turned out to be the case. Also read that these switches are prone to getting water in them. The switch wasn't cheap and bit of mucking around to fit it. Wiring on the new switch was different colours and fits into a 12 point plug, so we cut and soldered into the old wiring. Fortunately it works alright now. If you are not sure probably best to talk to a dealer. I thought the risk of the $cost of the switch and fixing myself compared to paying a dealer to diagnose and repair was worth it. Regards Wayne

Da made a good point. Might be a brake light switch, if it has one.

Da Mack & Madmack, thanks for the input but if you look at my first post you'll see I already checked that.

I would check the connector inside the fairing and the related wiring. The wires might have rubbed through on the inner support bracket, seen that happen enough times.

400web, I was all set to buy the switch thinking that would be the problem. But at the last minute I decided to check it for continuity. Traced the wires to the pin going into the CCM and both the set button and the resume button show continuity when pushed, I would assume that means it is working, or is there some other way I should be checking it?

Schmidtys, that sounds like a good next step. Think I tried everything I could without taking apart anything. Trying to eliminate everything possible before looking at it being the CCM gone bad.

Hi Fatcat As I said mine appeared to be the switch from the testing that I did and that proved to be correct, so i didn't do any further testing. Can't offer any other advice. Regards Wayne

Schmidtys, Had the fairing off for about 4 hours checking all the connections and all rub points and did not see anything. 400web/Wayne, I think it is time to go with your advice. I was assuming the set/resume switch is like three way toggle switch with off being the middle position. Now I am hoping I am wrong and there is more to that switch then I thought. $60 for that little sucker. Still a hole lot cheaper then the CCM. Thanks for the advice. Soon as I get it in (might not get it till monday) I'll post the Good or bad news.

I hate electrical/electronics problems. I feel for ya but at the same time, keep us informed as to what you discover. Good luck

Picked up switch yesterday afternoon. took 4 hours last night and another 3 hours today to install (what a pain in the rear).:mooning: Of coarse a lot of the time was spent looking for the right tools to do the job, and searching for a fairing screw that I dropped (fell right on top of the chrome pan at the bottom of the triple tree). Since the bike is a CVO all the wiring runs though the handlebars, but after a lot of swearing the job is done. Thankfully that was the problem:thumbsup, now I have cruise again. Thanks to all the members that gave me suggestions.:bikerguy:

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2008 HARLEY DAVIDSON STREET GLIDE 105TH ANNIV LIMITED EDITION 1584CC 6
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How to Use Cruise Control on a Harley Davidson
2008 Harley-davidson Street Glide For Sale 619 Used Motorcycles From $4,675
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COMMENTS

Cruise Control Kit 41000369
Find Cruise Control Kit 41000369 at Harley-Davidson.com. Free shipping on orders $50+ and free returns. Select your store; Learn to Ride ... and the term of the loan. Financing offer is available only for up to a 48 month term. For example, a 2023 Street Glide® Special motorcycle in Bright Billard Blue/Billiard Gray w/Chrome Finish with an ...
How to Use Cruise Control on a Harley-Davidson / Street Glide
Here is a step by step demonstration of how to engage (and disengage) cruise control on a Harley Davidson Street Glide. I will show you how to set the speed,...
Installing cruise control on bike that never had it
6637 posts · Joined 2013. #2 · Aug 25, 2014. Many (or most) cruise control kits are obsolete from Harley. You have to search dealers to find one that has one in stock. The wiring harness is standard. My '07 EG Classic without cruise, has connectors for cruise. I ride like an old guy that wants to get older.
07 Street Glide Cruise Control???
In 2008, MoCo completely changed the how the throttle system works. They went to a throttle by wire system. The throttle cables where eliminated and an electric butterfly control was added to the throttle body. The 2008 kit is all electronic. There's no moving parts in it at all.
How to Use Cruise Control on a Harley Davidson
-SRK Cycles Inventory Click here to see https://www.srkcycles.com/-Want to rent a motorcycle? Check out Riders Share: https://www.riders-share.com/-M1 Moto G...
cruise control for street glide 07
806 posts · Joined 2010. #2 · Mar 22, 2015. 2007 is an odd ball year for cruise control. 2006 has throttle cables and uses a control module, and 2008 has fly by wire throttle that goes through the ECM so it does not have a module. You will have to look at your service manual to know for sure, but I think 2007 models still have throttle cables ...
2008 Harley-davidson® Parts Catalog: Touring Models
For all 2008 and later painted parts, refer to the Service Section of h-dnet.com which features a listing of painted part numbers, except CVO (Custom Vehicle Operations) models which are located in their own respective catalogs. ... FLHX Street Glide ... SWITCH - CRUISE CONTROL. SWITCH - ENGINE TEMP. SWITCH - IGNITION - FLHR. SWITCH - IGNITION ...
Adding Cruise Control to my 2008 Street Glide
There are a lot of criteria that must be met in order for the cruise to operate,must be in 5th or 6th must be above a certain speed but not over,the idle cable has a switch in it that must show a open,also I notice on mine I have to hold the throttle for a few seconds after hitting resume/set switch for it to engage.. This is an older thread ...
2008 Harley-Davidson Street Glide™
Hold it there for three seconds, and the cruise control light in the tach will flash either green or red (well orange). The light will be there even if your bike didnt come with cruise....if it flashes green the system is on.....red and its off. ... Just recently I purchased a 2008 Street Glide (White Gold Pearl) and I am once again a Happy Camper.
DOC HARLEY: CRUISE CONTROL & PTT SWITCH
Doc Harley from the Service Clinic at Low Country Harley-Davidson to help you with the health of your motorcycle! This week he talks about location, location...
Cruise control does not work on Street Glide
The cruise control wasn't working when I got the bike out. 2007 Ultra. Light wouldn't go green, just stayed red. Took it to the dealer. Quick diagnosis and told my "idle control cable" was bad. $45 part. Just a bit over 1 hour to replace. Works fine now. They did give me my old part and there is a contact switch that was a "bit" green on the cable.
Harley Davidson Touring: No Throttle Response
Harley Davidson Touring: No Throttle Response. In 2008, Harley Davidson implemented a throttle by wire design, eliminating the throttle cable. One of the nice advantages of this system is electronic cruise control, but this design has its disadvantages, too, such as loose connections and broken sensors. By Weston Chadwick - March 16, 2016.
Cruise control not working again
Hold cruise switch in the SET position. 2. Turn the cruise ON. 3. Turn the main power switch on, the cruise light should initially come on then turn GREEN, release the cruise switch the light will turn RED. 4. Push the cruise switch to RESUME the light should turn GREEN, release the switch, the light should turn RED. 5.
Harley-Davidson Electronic Throttle Control
Prior to 2008 there was a separate cruise-control module that operated the throttle plate by means of a long cable. ... I have a new 2015 street glide and i use a vane and hines fp3 tuner true ...
Cruise control indicator light blinking
Member. Jan 15, 2015. #1. On my 04 Ultra the indicator light for the cruise control blinks on and off between the red and green colors when the cruise control is in the "OFF" position. When I turn the cruise control on and set it everything works as it should and the light stays on a solid green. It acts like there is a loose wire somewhere but ...
2008 street glide
2008 street glide - highway speed, selected cruise control then selected speed, bike shut off... will not start. has - Harley Davidson 2008 FLHX Street Glide question
Cruise Control!?! 2008 Harley Electra Glide Ultra Classic Review
I wanted to take a minute and walk y'all around my 2008 Harley Davidson Electra Glide Ultra Classic. It is the 105th anniversary edition road sofa cruiser. I...
2008 streetglide, I put on a cruise control and it will not
2008 streetglide, I put on a cruise control and it will not work. veery thing is put together right, you drive it - Harley Davidson 2008 FLHX Street Glide question. ... 2008 FLHX Street Glide. Motorcycles; Related Question. Driving down road, car jerks, and RPMs jump to 4000. Acts like it dropped down to 3rd, and is stuck there.
cruise control quit working
To diagnose I used the instructions below. 1. bike off, run/stop to run. 2. push set/resume to set and hold. 3 with cruise on/off switch to on, turn on bike. 4. cruise indicator light should be green, release set switch, light should turn red. 5. push to resume and release, light should turn green then red.
Harley Davidson motorcycles for sale in California
ESPFI twin-cam produces 114 ft. lbs torque at 3500 RPMs. 6 spd cruise drive trans. first-ever paint combo matt and gloss, Black Diamond with Fire Quartz. Must see to appreciate. ... 2008 Thoroughbred Motorsports Stallion. ... Street Glide Special Harley Davidson FLSTN - Softail Deluxe Harley Davidson FLTRXS - Road Glide Special Harley Davidson ...
2024 Street Glide Motorcycle
For example, a 2024 Street Glide® motorcycle in Billiard Gray with an MSRP of $25,999, 10% down payment and amount financed of $23,399.10, 96 month repayment term, and 12.74% APR results in monthly payments of $389.88. In this example, customer is responsible for applicable taxes, title, licensing fees and any other fees or charges at the time ...
SF bay area for sale by owner "harley davidson"
2008 Harley Dyna super glide. $8,400. santa cruz Harley-Davidson Road Glide Chopped Engine Guard (NEW) ... 2010 Harley Davidson CVO Street Glide Bat Wing Fairing. $1,200. foster city 2004 1200 Sportster. $2,300. santa rosa Harley Davidson Sportster XLH-1200s. $4,500. ... Harley Davidson Sportster Forward Control Kit. $300. dublin / pleasanton ...
2008 Harley Davidson Street Glide Touring in San Jose, CA
2008 Harley Davidson Street Glide TouringThis Harley is in great condition. Only 8100 miles on the bike currently. This bike has been well maintained by the ...

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2008 FLHX 105th anniversary street glide.

Only one real complaint....the rest is sweet as pie!

Almost perfect all round touring

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2008 Harley-Davidson Road King® Classic $17,945 MSRP

2008 Harley-Davidson Road King® $17,595 MSRP

2008 Harley-Davidson Road Glide® $18,145 MSRP

2008 Harley-Davidson Electra Glide® Standard $16,545 MSRP

2008 Harley-Davidson Electra Glide® Classic $18,695 MSRP

2008 Harley-Davidson Electra Glide® Ultra Classic $20,695 MSRP

2008 Harley-Davidson Softail® Cross Bones $16,795 MSRP

2008 Harley-Davidson Softail® Rocker C $19,495 MSRP

2008 Harley-Davidson Softail® Rocker $17,295 MSRP

2008 Harley-Davidson Dyna Glide Fat Bob $14,795 MSRP

2008 Harley-Davidson Softail® Deluxe $17,445 MSRP

2008 Harley-Davidson Softail® Fat Boy $17,195 MSRP

2008 Harley-Davidson Softail® Heritage Softail Classic $17,945 MSRP

2008 Harley-Davidson Softail® Custom $16,895 MSRP

2008 Harley-Davidson Softail® Night Train $15,895 MSRP

2008 Harley-Davidson Dyna Glide Street Bob $13,795 MSRP

2008 Harley-Davidson Dyna Glide Super Glide Custom $12,995 MSRP

2008 Harley-Davidson Dyna Glide Super Glide $11,995 MSRP

Cruise control does not work on Street Glide

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Harley Davidson Touring: No Throttle Response

Materials Needed

Step 1 – Check for diagnostic trouble codes

Step 2 – Reset the ECM/limp mode

Step 3 – Check wiring between gas tank and backside of faring

Step 4 – Troubleshoot according to TSB TT418A

Step 5 – Inspect and test the twist grip sensor

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Cruise control not working again

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