the chambal safari lodge

• Getting here

GPS Coordinates: 26.8725° N, 78.5642° E

Season months: october to april.

Operating Season

1st October to 30th April

A mere hour's drive from the Taj Mahal, in the heart of the Chambal Valley, lies an oasis of tranquility nestling in sprawling acres of reclaimed woodland. Mela Kothi – The Chambal Safari Lodge.

A warm and welcoming haven for the eager explorer and weary traveller alike. Come prepared. This land will mesmerize you.

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Chambal Safari Lodge

Located in the heart of the Chambal Valley, this family-owned heritage property sits on an extensive wooded estate, surrounded by farmland, a mere hour’s drive from the Taj Mahal.

Since its restoration as an award winning eco-lodge, the property provides easy access to and is an ideal base for exploring the National Chambal Sanctuary and the Sarus crane wetlands. With elegant, spacious and well-appointed rooms, delicious home-cooked meals and a warm and friendly ambience the Mela Kothi-Chambal Safari Lodge is a peaceful haven of gracious hospitality. The grounds are home to over 200 species of birds & mammals, with nilgai, flying foxes, golden jackals, civets, jungle cats and the occasional striped hyena to keep you company.

View suggested itinerary

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Birds & tigers in central india.

Travelling from the Chambal River and the famed wetlands of Bharatpur, both bird hotspots, to the legendary Taj Mahal, and the central Indian national parks of Pench, Satpura and Tadoba, we search for exciting mammals and birds, including sloth bear, leopard, Asian wild dog, jungle cat and tiger. Find out more about Z) Birds & Tigers in Central India

• Destination : India
• Price (inc. flights) : 17 days from £5,995
• Trip type : Group Tour

National Chambal Sanctuary

This beautiful sanctuary was established in 1979 along a vast stretch of India’s Chambal River. Numerous ravines, the product of centuries of soil erosion by flood and rain water, line its banks. The cliffs and vegetation shelter numerous birds, mammals and reptiles, and the river is one of India’s most pristine. Find Out More about {acc:title}

• Where : Uttar Pradesh State
• Ideal for viewing : Gangetic river dolphin , gharial crocodile , Indian skimmer , marsh crocodile , smooth-coated otter
• Excellent for : River safaris , Birdwatching

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Peace and tranquillity on a tastefully restored heritage property

Chambal safari lodge.

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Combining the Rajput style of the olden days and the comforts of modern living, it has a range of bedroom suites and cottages with courtyards, verandas and even a library. You come together over food in the stable’s dining room or under the stars in a courtyard setting within the original homestead. It’s very much ‘your home away from home’. Mela Kothi offers opportunities for nature walks, river safaris, camel safaris, and jeep safaris, as well as culture trips to the nearby Bateshwar temple and Rapri village.

Destination

The Chambal Valley is an unexplored, unspoilt and unforgettable land. A mere 65km from the World Heritage sites of Agra, the Chambal Valley is a microcosm of the rural Indian heartland.

The National Chambal Sanctuary is a 400 km stretch of the river Chambal and a 1 to 6 km wide swathe of the ravines on both sides of the river, covering an area of 1235 sq. km.

The ancient settlement of Bateshwar is situated just 20 minutes from Mela Kothi. More than 40 temples dedicated to Shiva glisten pearly white along the ghats of the river. The temples are an interesting hybrid of styles with ghats and walkways along the riverfront. The Maha Aarti on the temple ghats every full moon is a divine spectacle reverberating with the sights & sounds of an age-old tradition that visitors may enjoy with the faithful on the ghats, or on boats facing the temples.

The region offers several off the beaten track locations to enjoy the rich cultural heritage and natural beauty of this relatively undiscovered region.

Accommodation

Mela Kothi has on offer 14 rooms, one large heritage room in the main house, two suites in Imli Sarai, a suite and a twin-bedroom in the Bougan Serai, and eight cottages in the grounds surrounding the main house. Rooms have private sit-outs overlooking the reclaimed woodlands and fields. The lodge has been built using locally-sourced material with lots of trees, grasses and plants to allow for natural cooling of the rooms. All of the accommodation units bring together the stately grace of erstwhile times, the warmth of local homes and the comforts of modern living.

Great care has been taken to create environmentally friendly and aesthetically pleasing accommodation that is also authentic to the area. The furniture and furnishings have been procured locally as far as possible.

The lodge’s 18th century stables and greenery lend the picture postcard-perfect setting for your mealtimes. The kitchens serve authentic home cooked meals with fresh, mainly organically grown ingredients. Most of the produce is from their own farms or procured directly from the local farmers. Recipes include local specialties that have been fine-tuned over generations, as well as contemporary Indian & Continental dishes.

Meals are served in the garden or the dining rooms in the restored stable block. Relax in the evening with beer or a glass of wine as you enjoy the campfire and the starlit skies. The evening campfires provide a good opportunity to interact with other guests or simply sit back and do a spot of star-gazing.

Tea and coffee is available in the main garden throughout the day and guests are welcome to make their own cuppa as often as they wish.

Experiences

With a team of trained naturalist guides, the lodge is able to offer several excursions designed to best discover the natural, cultural and historical attractions of the Chambal valley. Take a boat safari in the river to catch a glimpse of muggers, gharials and turtles. Ride a camel along the forgotten paths leading to the citadel of Ater. You can also go on the Saurus crane trail in a jeep or catch excellent sightings of blackbuck. The lodge offers excursions to nearby temples, villages and also to the site of an ancient cattle and horse fair that is larger in size than the Pushkar fair.

Why we love this place

Mela Kothi and its stables were established as a field camp in the late 1890s by the great grandfather of the current owner, who was the feudal chief of Jarar. Nestling in the midst of over 120 acres of woodland and pasture and surrounded by farmland, the Mela Kothi was ideally located to serve as a camp office for the family’s bi-annual cattle fair ( Mela ). The clockwork precision, guarantee of safety, amenities, entertainment, talent shows, shops, and the revenue generated were a source of great pride and prestige for the family. However, by the 1990s the fair had become unviable and the property had fallen into total disrepair and was on the verge of being condemned.

With little more than a dream and boundless optimism Ram Pratap and his wife Anu decided to give up their professional careers and return to Jarar. In 2001 after decades of neglect, the Mela Kothi was meticulously restored and rechristened Mela Kothi – Chambal Safari Lodge.

The Lodge is located within a 35-acre plantation of the original woodland, with many old growth trees surrounded by extensive farmland. Large numbers of indigenous trees and shrubs are planted every year to supplement the existing growth and to create a nature reserve that is being progressively allowed to regenerate itself without human interference, providing home to numerous birds and small mammals.

Its superb location, charming hosts and warm ambiance invite guests to stay for a few days and undertake several unique safaris and excursions that showcase the natural and cultural splendours of the Chambal valley.

About your host

Ram Pratap Singh and his wife Anu have turned their run-down inheritance, Mela Kothi, into a lovingly restored homely lodge nestled in 35 sprawling acres of scenic woodlands. Originally built as a mela or cattle fair camp in the late 1890s, the house and its stables now welcome you in style and comfort to the little known wilderness and cultural heart of the Chambal region.

The couple are proud to have placed the hitherto unknown Chambal Valley on to the international Responsible Tourism map; sharing its wonders with the world and guaranteeing its continued protection.

“ We have attempted to create a warm, welcoming and comfortable environment in an eco-friendly, self-sustaining manner. We hope to showcase the unique biodiversity and distinctive cultural heritage of the Chambal Valley. ” Ram Pratap Singh and Anu Dhillon

Responsible/Sustainable Tourism

Your hosts endeavour to ensure all activity is eco-friendly and sustainable as far as possible. Most of the produce used in the kitchens is from their own farms or procured directly from the local farmers. They also undertake a number of conservation and awareness campaigns as well as supporting and coordinating with numerous schools, organisations and agencies.

Our Recommendation

The sprawling grounds of the Lodge are home to numerous birds and small mammals, and the Lodge area has a checklist of 198 species. Resident naturalists are available to guide morning and evening rambles through the lodge grounds and surrounding countryside. Evening Nature Walks around the Lodge, with our resident naturalists, are the best time to go looking for Palm Civet Cats, Jungle Cats, Foxes, Jungle Hares, Fruit Bats, Hedgehogs and the Indian Striped Hyenas.

Chambal Safari Lodge:

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Opulent: Exceptional, unashamedly the best of sheer luxury. (£££££)

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Chambal Safari Lodge

• Experiences

A charming lodge set in an oasis of woodland with a focus on wildlife and nature.

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About Chambal Safari Lodge

Set just an hour outside Agra, Chambal Safari Lodge is a peaceful woodland getaway, built and managed by passionate conservationist and naturalist, Ram Pratap Singh. A descendent of the Singh family, who own much of the surrounding farmland, Singh restored the neglected house in 1999 allowing visitors to explore his ancestral home, and it's a paradise for wildlife and bird lovers. There are 35 acres of land to explore and the guides are knowledgeable and incredibly warm and generous. A lovely change from the hotels in Agra, it's also close enough to combine a visit to Taj Mahal too.

From $ 90 person/night

Agra, India

What you'll love

The Singhs consider themselves real foodies, and the daily buffet banquets, always created using organic, locally-grown produce, are lip-smackingly good.

Insiders tip

Take an out-of-the-ordinary safari by camel. Explore the Chambal Ravines on these hump-backed creatures, spotting local wildlife and ambling past ancient archeological sites.

Something to think about

The lodge is an hour outside of Agra so although the Taj is within easy reach, it's not the place to stay for sunrise visits.

The property

Set within bright green forest and working farmland, the lodge resides on 35 acres of the old family plantation. Far removed from the hustle and bustle of the town, this is a place for relaxation and connecting with nature. The main building, Mela Kothi, is home to the dining room and a bar, and there are plenty of seating areas dotted around the grounds. Expect to sample an abundance of local cuisine daily and spend evenings huddled around the bonfire, gazing up at the night sky.

You'll sleep either in a room in the main house or in one of the many cottages around the grounds. Both come in varying sizes and offer a taste of local design and hospitality. There are 13 spots to stay in total, and some offer access to the welcoming library or open out onto a pebbled courtyard or farmland, whilst others come complete with lovely private gardens or verandahs.

The lodge runs regular safaris, both on the Chambal River (they are the only lodge in the area allowed to do so) and in the National Chambal Sanctuary, 22 kilometres away. On the water, you'll spot turtles, gharials, muggers and, if you're lucky, the Ganges river dolphin. Trips out by jeep should bring spottings of sarus cranes, along with other breeds of wetland birds and buckback deer. The ancient town of Bateshwar is also fun to explore, or you could stay put and spot jungle cats, hares and fruit bats in the gardens.

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Chambal Safari Lodge

Set in farmland, Chambal is a great place to experience rural Indian life and nature about one hour from Agra.

Bar and Lounge at Chambal Safari Lodge, Jarar, India

© Chambal Safari Lodge

Jarar, Agra India

Tribes style: modest.

• Enjoy a break from sightseeing
• Join the guide for a nature walk
• Savour traditional and contemporary cuisine
• Explore by boat and bike
• Visit Jara village and temples at Bateshwar

Also known as Mela Kothi and the Chambal River Lodge, the Chambal Safari Lodge is housed in an old colonial-era building which has been lovingly restored. Surrounded by a 35 acre plantation, a great deal of animal and birdlife can be seen in the gardens around the lodge, with nature walks led by resident naturalist guides. The trees around the lodge are home to colonies of flying foxes as well as civets, and shrikes, babblers and hornbills can be seen in the surrounding farmland.

The lodge has thirteen rooms made up of eight cottages in the grounds, one room in the main house, three suites and one room in separate buildings. All have been decorated and furnished with great care and attention to detail and are equipped with air conditioning, fans and hot and cold water. Electric supply in this rural part of India can be erratic, but generator power is provided in the mornings and evenings, and solar-powred lamps, candles and torches are available.

The lodge serves meals mostly prepared from their own and locally sourced organic farms, and many of the recipes are family favourites that have been handed down from generation to generation. The main house has sitting room, library and verandas which you're welcome to use, and there are several spots in the garden where you can enjoy tea and coffee. After dark the firepit is the main gathering place outdoors.

A wide variety of activities are available from the lodge. The Chambal River is best explored by boat, with the lodge providing their own boats and expert boatmen to see the birds and animals in and around the river. Walking safaris can also be arranged on the banks of the river as well as the surrounding farmland. For a more cultural trip, you can also visit the rural villages around the lodge and nearby sites such as the ancient Bateshwar Temples, scene of the annual Bateshwar Fair each November, and Fort Atar.

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Client Rating for India 5/5 from 130 reviews

Loved it here. Accommodation in separate bungalows, lovely guides and lovely food. The sounds of the birds was just incredible.

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Tranquil Chambal Safari Lodge

Follow in the footsteps of traders from centuries past to the door of a historic, renovated mansion, now a homely eco-lodge run by the great-grandson of the original owners. Enjoy the extensive grounds, nearby river safaris and atmospheric ancient villages. The sacred city of Bateshwar is practically on the doorstep, and the magnificence of the Taj Mahal is within easy reach.

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In the vastness of India, it's rare to find a base from which you can cruise the waterways of a little-known wildlife sanctuary, then explore small villages, towns and temples where visitors are greeted as friends, yet still miraculously find yourself within an hours drive of the Taj Mahal. But this is possible if you retreat to the Mela Kothi Chambal Safari Lodge.

Once mansion house, now homely eco-lodge, guests can relax in stylish rooms, suites or individual cottages ideally suited to those travelling with younger children. Walk the 35 acres of private plantation and farmland accompanied by the resident birds and butterflies. Share meals based on old family recipes at a long communal table, before warding off the evening chill with a drink by the roaring campfire.

Days can be spent drifting along the sweeping river that runs through the little known National Chambal Sanctuary, flanked by wide ravines of mud cliffs and thick forest; the lodge is one of a handful of local organisations with a licence to operate boats in the area. Bask in the early sunshine as you keep your eyes open for the inhabitants of the park, including gharials, marsh crocodiles, and numerous other reptiles, mammals and birds along the river banks. 

Afternoons are the ideal time to visit the nearby village of Holipura. One of the villagers, descendants of the ancient and influential Chaturvedi clan, will guide you along streets lined with havelis; once grand but now majestically decaying. Travel by river to Bateshwar, where more than forty whitewashed temples to Shiva line the riverside ghats, and take part in a blessing ceremony. In October or November you might also be lucky enough to witness the Bateshwar animal fair, the second largest of its type in the whole of India.

The lodge works closely on reforestation and conservation projects, and is an important focal point for the local community, offering employment, patronising local craftsmen and sourcing food directly from farmers. Alongside the generous hospitality, peace and tranquillity, this means a stay at Chambal can’t help but give you the feel good factor.

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Chambal Safari

• Agra, Varanasi and Northern India

In a Nutshell

Chambal Safari Lodge is a small eco-lodge located close to Agra offering a blend of wildlife and cultural experiences in this untouched corner of India.

At a Glance

• Lovely wildlife lodge close to the Chambal and Yumuna Rivers
• Close to the superb Bateshwar Temples on the Yamuna
• You can easily see Agra and the Taj Mahal on the way to Chambal and spend your time away from the city at night
• Links up well with journeys onto Ranthambore, Ramathra Fort and Gwalior

Chambal’s main advantage is that you can stay here, seeing Agra and the Taj Mahal on the way and then continue to Ranthambore or Rajasthan after your stay. Chambal is run by the owners, Ram Pratap Singh and his wife Anu and there is a lovely atmosphere about the place. There is a checklist of 198 bird species, reptiles and mammals within the six acres of grounds, and you can head off on guided jeep, river, camal and natural walks in the local area. If you like more cultural pursuits, then a visit to the Bateshwar Temples on the Yamuna River is a must, alongside visit to traditional rural villages.

There are just 12 rooms here, ten of which are simply styled cottages set within the grounds with two larger bedrooms in the main lodge (Mela Kothi). The cottages have verandas looking out on the woodland, and the bedrooms have both front and rear facing verandas. Don’t expect a great deal; there are no TVs for instance.

Meals are served in a traditional buffet style, and a real highlight in the evening bonfire where guests meet to share stories about their day’s adventures.

Millis Potter Insight

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