travel frame for painting

Art Packaging & Crating .

Art packing and crating.

TYart offers a wide variety of options for packing and crating artworks for shipping domestically and internationally. Our crates are recognized throughout the museum industry, not just by their green teal color, but from high quality craftsmanship. Museum data loggers confirm that our crates hold temperature longer than our competitors crates.

Packing and Crating Options

Soft packing art.

Soft packing is a quick and economical means of packing an object for transit or storage. Typically, soft packing an object is dictated by the object itself and requires an experienced art handler to determine the best method and wrapping material. Most artworks are wrapped in Glassine with an outer-wrap of bubble. Three dimensional objects can also be soft wrapped but attention must be given to the surface of each object. If the surface is not to be touched, a cardboard collar is fabricated, and then, wrapped in Dartek. This method can also be used on ornate frames that can withstand pressure fitting. Soft packing is best for temporary storage, short transits, and hand carry.

A slip-case is a simple cardboard covered protective package with 2” inch foam around all four sides. Artwork inside the slipcase is typically soft wrapped for added protection.This packing is best for shipping via art shuttle or hand carry.

Travel Frames

A travel frame is a form of a simple crate. The primary purpose of a travel frame is to offer a budgetary solution to help protect your artwork while handling, storage or transit. A travel frame is necessary when nothing can touch the surface of the artwork or ornamental elements are exposed and cannot withstand pressure from soft wrapping. T-Plates are often added to the back of the artwork and then screwed into the travel frame, this allows the artwork to float within the frame and insures that nothing is touching the surface of the art. Travel frames can also be pressure fit if the work has a simple frame that is stable. This form of packing should be used for storage, art shuttles or any white glove service, it is not recommended for shipping on common carrier or air freight. All our crates meet EU standards for all customs requirements.

Slat Crates

Slat crates are similar to travel frames, however, only for 3D objects. They are ideal for storing and shipping via white glove services only. The objects are secured using padded bracing in strategic areas to restrict movement. Slat crates can also be used as interior packing cribbage for both standard crates and museum crates.Slat crates are best for chandeliers, furniture, medium to large sculptures, or any other odd shaped object.All our crates meet EU standards for all customs requirements.

Standard and Galley level crates

Museum and traveling Exhibition crates

TYart’s museum exhibition crate is our highest level crate. These crates are for international and domestic travel and multi-venue shipping. Our museum crates are painted and caulked for moisture protection and insulated with anti-moisture insulation panel for added value. Typically, objects are double crated with an interior foamed box or with a museum sealed travel frame. All museum crates are closed with bolts for multiple open and closing at each venue.

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Hours of Operation

Shipping Crates, Mailing Crates and Travel Frames

We build bespoke Shipping Crates, Mailing Crates and Travel Frames at our Elephant and Castle workshop.

While we primarily cater to the arts, antiques and furniture industries, our shipping crates are suitable for moving just about anything that needs one. We offer a range of different products, so depending on what it is that needs moving and your budget, we can build something to safely transport your artwork or precious cargo with confidence.

What’s the difference between a Shipping Crate, a Mailing Crate and a T-frame?

Shipping Crates

Our shipping crates, which are primarily made for international shipping, are robust timber and plywood boxes, designed to house artworks for lifelong transport around the world. They can be used over and over again, whenever the artwork needs moving. We only use heat-treated timber that complies with international shipping regulation ISPM 15, a legal requirement which permits the crate to cross borders while adhering to IPPC (International Plant Protection Convention) regulations. Our crates can be made to be fully collapsible, and for top or side loading, whatever your requirements.

We can build crates for multiple artworks or items, and unless specified, all internal surfaces are lined with 25mm ether foam. We use quality hardwood ply in all our crates, and use varying thicknesses (6mm, 9mm, 12mm and 18mm) depending on what’s going inside.

If a crate is heavy or large, we can build in a pallet base for easy moving by pallet or forklift truck.

Mailing Crates

Mailing crates are a stripped down version of a shipping crate, designed for UK courier transport of 2-D artworks. They’re built with many of the same materials as the shipping crates, but with less timber reinforcement. This helps reduce weight, which in turn brings down transport costs.

We started building these for local print galleries. We are able to pack multiple works within the same crate, however we recommend that if you have more than a couple that you consider a full shipping crate.

We would always recommend that you use the more reinforced shipping crate for international shipping, however the timber we use in our mailing crates is the same ISPM 15 heat-treated timber required for port clearance.

T-frames are an economical art industry standard solution to safely transport a single painting when travelling between galleries and clients (for viewings, for example), or going into storage. While generally designed for local transport, we use the same heat treated timber as the international ISPM 15 crates so they are ready to travel, wherever you may be taking it.

If you’re just looking for a local or UK transport solution, with no need to see the artwork within, we would recommend the mailing crate over the T-Frame. We do not recommend the use of T-Frames with third party couriers or shippers.

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Framing Artwork: How to Frame Your Art (Materials, Sizes, Tips)

Learn the art of framing, from choosing the right frame and mat to protect and enhance your artwork, to how to make your own frame at home.

Learn | By India Mantle

This guide to framing artwork will help you learn how to frame your art in the best way possible. After all, it’s the next logical step after creating or purchasing a masterpiece.

In general, it’s not just about choosing the right frame but also about the perfect framing technique to elevate your artwork.

So, keep reading to learn more about all the different frame styles, sizes, and materials, along with some tips on framing art.

Table of Contents

Framing Artwork: What You Need To Know

There’s nothing like going through the experience of framing your first artwork. It’s a commemoration of getting over the phase of pinning posters to your dorm’s walls.

That said, it can also be a confusing process, trying to figure out what materials to choose and how to do it optimally.

Take a look at the following tips to help you out.

1. Frame Style

Credit: In the Making Studio

The frame style is a personal choice that depends on a person’s preferences completely. Primarily, it can impact the aesthetic of your artwork significantly.

In other words, it’s like a visual border that should guide a person’s attention toward the piece of art and complement its appearance.

For example, a thin white frame can give your artwork an elegant and polished look. On the other hand, a thick one can make a bold impact on the viewer.

Similarly, traditional artwork goes well with classic frames, while minimalist pieces may find a suitable companion in simple frames.

That said, it’s also essential to consider the subject and color palette of your piece.

On top of that, thinking about where to display the artwork matters as well. That’s because it helps create harmony with the surroundings for better aesthetics.

Credit: Cottonbro Studio

A mat is that border you notice around many types of artwork, acting as a protective and decorative element.

Cut to size, a mat’s opening is like a window displaying your sentimental pieces of artwork. Here are a few advantages of matting your art:

• Enhanced presentation: Matting is essential for the visual appeal of your artwork as it provides a border that separates it from the frame, drawing attention to the painting.
• Added depth: The mat also adds depth to the framed piece of art, giving it a more luxurious feel, especially for smaller artwork.
• Extra support: Along with the backing board, a mat provides much-needed support for the artwork. Plus, it helps hide any type of attachment holding the piece of art in place.
• Heightened protection: Matting creates a buffer space between the artwork and the glass or acrylic covering. Consequently, it prevents them from sticking together.
• Better air circulation: The buffer also allows vital air circulation. As a result, it helps avert moisture from condensing inside the frame and forming unwanted mold or mildew.
• More room for expansion: Properly matted artwork has room for expansion resulting from environmental changes, allowing the artwork to expand and contract freely.
• Greater coverage for imperfections: Matting can also cover many flaws in the artwork when placed strategically, especially for pieces with uneven edges.

Types of Matting

Typically, there are various types of matting, each serving a specific purpose in farming your artwork. Check out a few of the most common styles.

• Classic single mats: This is the most basic mat style, with the artwork in the middle of four equal borders. Such type provides a clean display that directs focus on the center.
• Double or triple mats: Consisting of two or more mat boards, this type creates added depth and sophistication to artwork, often using contrasting colors.
• Bottom-weighted mats: As the name suggests, this type offers more stability and balance, with the bottom border being wider than the other three.
• Multi-opening mats: This is a perfect style for creating collages or showcasing a group of related images, as it contains more than one window opening.
• Oriental mats: Similar to Asian scroll art, this style features narrow side borders and looks great horizontally or vertically, perfect for displaying elongated pieces.
• Museum-style mats: Usually used by museums, this style features wide borders, with the bottom one being significantly larger. Plus, they’re mostly neutral and pale in color.

Read more on finding the right frame and mat dimensions for prints.

3. Frame Material

Credit: Sara Garnica (left) / Eva Bronzini (right)

When it comes to material, you have hundreds of options to choose from.

Overall, choosing the right frame depends on the artwork style, surrounding decor, your budget, and above all, your personal preferences.

Check out some of the most popular frame materials.

• Wood: Wooden frames are classic and versatile. Whether ornate or simple, they’re suitable for many artwork styles. The common types include oak, pine, and walnut.
• Metal: Often made from aluminum or steel, metal frames provide a modern and sleek look. They’re popular for abstract paintings and photographs, adding a minimalist touch.
• Acrylic or plastic: These materials are cost-effective. They’re lightweight and versatile, making them perfect for framing larger pieces of artwork on a tighter budget.
• Composite or MDF: Made from a mixture of wood pulp and resin, MDF frames also offer affordability. Moreover, they can be finished to resemble wood.
• Antique: Vintage frames usually feature mesmerizing carving and detailing. They add historical charm to your pieces, especially for period-specific ones.
• Float frames: Floater frames give the illusion that the artwork is floating within. They’re typically wooden frames, providing an elegant and contemporary display.
• Recycled frames: For environmentally conscious individuals, using recycled frames is a great option, whether crafted from reclaimed wood or other repurposed materials.

Related: Acrylic vs Metal Prints: What’s Best for Wall Art?

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4. Frame Size

Credit: Los Muertos Crew

When it comes to framing size, it has to be proportional to the artwork.

By default, frames that are too small can make your art feel cramped. Contrarily, too large of a frame can overshadow the piece.

A. Standard Size Artwork

For artwork of regular sizes, framing isn’t a huge issue. You just need to go to the frame shop and buy a standard-size frame with a mat that fits your art piece.

Typically, a ready-to-use frame comes with a pre-cut custom mat that covers about 0.25” more of your art piece than the size advertised.

So, check out the following list of frame sizes to help you select the perfect one.

• Related: All Standard Photo Sizes to Know for Printing

B. Non-Standard Size Artwork

Whether it’s a piece of odd size or original artwork of yours, there are alternative framing methods other than purchasing a standard frame. These include:

• Custom frames: Many frame shops offer custom framing options. They can create a frame tailored to the exact dimensions of your artwork for a seamless look.
• Matting solutions: Matting can be cut to fit the specific dimensions of your artwork. They provide an easy-on-the-eye buffer space and enhance the overall presentation.
• Collages: For smaller artwork, you can consider framing a few of them as a collection. You just need to experiment with different arrangements for enhancing the aesthetics.
• DIY frames: If you enjoy the hands-on approach, you may consider creating your DIY frame. You have the option to make a frame from scratch or assemble a frame kit.

How To Make a Picture Frame

For DIY lovers, making a picture frame should be a piece of cake. Not only does it allow you to be creative, but it also eliminates size restrictions.

Here’s what you need to do to make a small white frame.

Materials Needed:

• Wood: Choose a good piece of lumber that fits your preferences (make sure it’s defect-free).
• Sandpaper: You’ll need sandpaper in various grits to smooth the surface and edges of the frame.
• Nails: For chunkier frames, you need large and long screw nails. Contrarily, small frames only need thinner ordinary nails.
• Wood glue: A strong type is necessary for bonding the frame’s pieces together.
• Wood paint: As an additional step to give the frame a nice finish.

Tools Needed:

• Wood clamps: They’re perfect for holding the frame in place while the glue dries.
• Miter saw or miter box: A miter saw makes cutting precise angles easier. However, you can replace it with a miter box and a simple hand saw.
• Hand Saw: Used with the help of the miter box to make straight cuts.

Steps To Follow:

• Measure the dimensions of the photo you want to frame.
• Cut four pieces of wood to make the edges of the frame.
• Use a miter saw or miter box to cut the ends of each edge at a 45° angle.
• Create a small recess on the inside of the frame using a straight bit to ensure the glass stays in place.
• As an alternative, you can make a smaller, thinner frame to attach to the back of the main one.
• Dry fit the frame pieces before gluing them to make sure they align perfectly.
• Apply wood glue to the mitered ends and join the pieces together to make your frame.
• Use wood clamps to hold the pieces tightly and wipe off any excess glue with a damp cloth.
• Once the wood glue is dry, reinforce the frame using wood screws or frame nails.
• Smooth the frame using sandpaper to achieve a polished look.
• Apply wood filler to fill any gaps (optional).
• Use white paint to give your final product a shiny color finish.
• Insert the glass sheet cut to fit the frame’s size (you may use plexiglass or any type of clear plastic as an alternative).
• Cut a piece of backing board or use cardboard to fit the back of your white frame.
• Attach a hook or any type of hanging hardware to the back, and it should be ready for use.

Related: Best Acrylic & Glass Photo Prints for Your Walls

How To Frame Your Art

Whether an artist or an art enthusiast, framing your artwork is vital for preserving and presenting it.

So, here’s a step-by-step guide on how to frame your art.

• Your piece of art
• Glazing (glass or acrylic)
• Backing board
• Mounting materials (This may include acid-free artist’s tape, archival corners, thumbtacks, etc.)
• Hanging hardware (D-ring hangers or other types)
• Framing screws
• A sealant or backing paper
• Lint-free cloth
• Measuring tape
• Screwdriver and pliers
• Measure the dimensions of your artwork accurately before going to buy a suitable frame.
• Decide if your artwork would benefit from matting prior to choosing the color, material, etc.
• Consider the thickness of your art piece and the width of the matting frame you want to go for.
• Find the right frame style that would complement your art (other than frame shops, you can find a huge variety of beautiful frames online).
• Choose your preferred type of glazing. Acrylic is a lightweight option, while some specific types of glass may offer UV protection.
• Have the glazing of your choice cut to size.
• Prepare a well-lit, clean surface and cover it with a soft piece of fabric to protect your artwork from scratches.
• Assemble the frame (if disassembled) by following the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
• If you thrift shop, you may need to figure out how to disassemble that vintage frame you found.
• If you use glass for glazing, make sure to clean it well before fixing it in place. Be careful of sharp edges.
• Cut the mat’s window to size and carefully place it within the frame, ensuring it’s centered properly (if you decide to use a mat).
• Place your artwork behind the mat and use pieces of tape or archival corners to secure it (if it’s on paper).
• For canvas paintings, make sure the stretcher bars fit well within the frame.
• With your artwork in place, seal the back of the frame using framing points or screws.
• Attach your preferred hanging hardware to the back of the frame. Always check its weight capacity to make sure it can support your framed artwork.
• Clean your frame and glaze again before hanging.
• Find a suitable location for your piece of art and use a level to make sure it’s hanging straight.

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As the Content Manager of Shotkit, India Mantle brings with her a lifelong love for photography that she developed during her childhood, watching her father document their family moments with his Nikon EM. In her free time, you find her enjoying the awe-inspiring natural beauty of her home, Northern Rivers, Australia.

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Fine Art Crating & Packaging

Art work fas offers a full range of crating and packaging options designed to ensure the protection and security of your valued pieces..

All of our crates are custom built to precisely fit your objects. Constructed of high-quality plywood, our crates are clearly stenciled with handling and orientation instructions. We use archival materials where necessary, and offer a range of custom options.

From slat-crating a single painting for a domestic move to constructing multi-venue traveling exhibition crates for international travel, we cater to your specific shipping and handling requirements with the preservation of your objects as our top priority.

Source the Highest Quality Plywood

Each crate is built using the highest quality plywood to with stand storage and transportation of the art.

Designed & Built By Expert Art Handlers

Our crates our built right on location by experienced team members, all of which hold a degree in Fine Art.

Assembled with Care

Each crate is assembled to ensure the highest level of safety of the artwork while being transported.

Crating Options

Museum/International Crates

Museum crates are our highest-grade crates, designed for multiple uses over long periods of time—typically for traveling shows or exceptionally valuable pieces.

Our museum crates have all the features of our standard crates: ½" plywood construction, with all panels fully framed with ¾” battens, and all joints glued and stapled or screwed. All museum crates have bolt and plate closure and two coats exterior polyurethane sealant, as well as foam gasket around the lid. Bolt-and-plate closure is the most durable method of opening and closing the crate because it stands up to repeated use. The exterior sealant helps keep out air and moisture, and keeps the crates looking clean and neat over time.

Standard Crates

Standard/Two Way crates are our mid-grade crates, designed for repeated use, or when the size or weight of an object requires an especially sturdy construction method.

All sides and the lid are made from ½" plywood, which is framed with ¾" plywood battens. Corners are reinforced with ¾" battens, and the crates have integrated handles and skids. All joints are glued and stapled or screwed together. Like Basic/One-Way crates, Standard/Two-Way crates feature screw closures and can be optioned with foam gaskets. Standard/Two Way crates are a more durable upgrade over Basic/One-Way crates, because the fully framed ½" plywood panels are stronger than unframed panels.

One-Way Crates

Our Basic/One-Way crates are designed to be economical while still being safe for the most delicate artwork, and are good for both land and air travel, domestically and internationally. While they are designed to protect artwork during a single trip, many customers are able to get multiple uses out of these crates.

These crates feature a sturdy and durable construction of solid ¾" plywood sides, with ½" plywood used for lids and backs. All four corners are reinforced with ¾" plywood battens, and the crates have integrated handles and skids. All joints are glued and stapled or screwed together. Basic/One-Way crates feature screw closures and can be built with foam gasket around the lid.

Travel Frames

Appropriate for art shuttle transport and storage, travel frames are an excellent choice when artwork has an especially fragile or delicate surface. They can also be an economical solution for very large artwork, since they’re usually less expensive than an enclosed crate. And sometimes, a piece of art will simply be so challenging to transport that it needs a travel frame to be moved safely.

We make Enclosed, Coroplast-faced, and Standard Travel Frames. All travel frames can be designed to be used on their own or packed into enclosed crates. Typically, artwork is packed into a travel frame with brass Oz Clips or steel mending plates, which allow us to secure the work without touching the sides or front. Travel frames may also have internal foam bumpers if that is most appropriate for the work.

Other Crating Options

“ U” Crates, “L” Pallets, Slat Crates and other skeleton-type crates are designed to be economical but provide good access for placement and packing of 3-D objects.

U-crates are a pallet base with two “wings”, usually on the short sides.  In profile, they look like the letter “U.”  The pallet and wings are made of different materials based on the size and weight of the object being packed.  Usually, 2x2 or 2x4 braces and beams connect the two wings and are used to block in the object.

L-pallets are a U-crate with only one “wing.”  In profile, they look like the letter “L.”  We’d use an L-pallet instead of a U-crate when we know we don’t need as much packing or protection for an object.

Slat Crates are a pallet base, four removable open lattice sides and an open lattice top.  Usually Slat Crate sides are made of 1x4, 1x6 or 1x8s, but for particularly heavy objects we will construct the crate sides from 2x4, 2x6 or 2x8s.

Learn More About Custom Crating

The Difference Between One-Way Crates and Standard Crates When Shipping Fine Art

At Artwork FAS, we offer a full range of crating and packaging options. Our services are designed to ensure the protection and security of your artwork. We understand that every detail matters when it comes to fine art transportation, and … Read More

Art Services | Crating | Shipping & Transporting

Risks You May Face While Shipping Your Fine Art Yourself

One of the biggest risks art collectors and enthusiasts face takes place during the transportation of artwork. In fact, a large proportion of art claims are due to transit losses. We’ve gathered some specific risks you may encounter while shipping … Read More

Three Reasons Why Custom Crating is the Way To Go

A great many details go into packaging and shipping artwork. With decisions to be made about the right materials, protection, and hardware for packaging, it can be stressful to navigate which route is right for your piece.  Our custom crating … Read More

From a simple soft-wrapping for shuttle transport to a full crating and packing for ocean containers, we understand the unique requirements for handling fine art and antiques. We offer onsite consultations to determine the best packing and crating options, and we provide onsite packing and soft-wrapping using the most up-to-date archival materials to ensure the safe and stable transport of your pieces.

We care about our environment. We donate our wood waste and scrap ethafoam to area recyclers, and use reusable and recycled wrapping and packing products whenever possible.

Let our team protect and secure your artwork with our custom crating.

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Art Studio Life

Articles » Painting » 9+ Best Travel Art Supplies for Painting Artists Who Travel

9+ Best Travel Art Supplies for Painting Artists Who Travel

• Last Updated: July 8, 2021
• Written by: Elisabeth Larson Koehler

This article may contain affiliate links, please read my affiliate disclosure for more information.

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One of the perks of painting is that all of the necessary materials are fairly portable. This article will guide you through which travel art supplies are the easiest to pack and take with you.

We are lucky in this day and age to be able to carry our paints in small paint tubes and have easels that are light and foldable. However, there are a LOT of different materials out there and it can be hard to know what exactly you need to paint and travel. I will break down exactly what you will need, so that you can easily be a traveling artist, painting on the go!

Painting Surfaces Best for Travel

This is one of the more important of the travel art supplies you’ll need to remember to take with you. As wherever you paint you will always need something to paint on.

I recommend using loose gessoed canvas that can be rolled up. Boards will take up more space than stretched canvas. Not to mention you have to be a little more careful not to puncture or damage stretch canvases!

You can gesso your own canvas or purchase it already primed and ready to paint on! When you are ready to start your painting, you will simply cut out a size that is appropriate for your project. Then attach the piece of canvas to a hard board with some masking tape. This hard board will act as a support for all of your paintings on your journey. You will be able to use both sides if you wish to do multiple paintings at a time! I do this often 😉

Art Supplies for Storing Paintings and Canvas

To transport your canvas I recommend to roll it up and store it safely inside a mailing tube. This provides excellent protection for your painting surface and keeps it from getting any creases.

In addition, I recommend for you to use the mailing tube to store your completed paintings on your travels ( once they are dry ). Again this is a wonderful way to protect your work from getting any folds or creases. When traveling we often accidentally drop things or stack things on top of one another. Therefore storing your work in a mailing tube alleviates a lot of worry about any damage that may incur to your work!

✨ A quick tip about rolling up paintings – keep the painted side on the outside! I know this sounds odd but it is the best way to take care of your paintings while rolling them up. Rolling oil paintings inwards can cause them to chip or flake which will become visible when laid out flat again.

Travel Art Carrying Case

What if your paintings are still wet and you need to continue your travels? Enter the wet panel art carrying case ! You can purchase one or make your own. They allow you to store wet painting safely inside a box in such a way so that it won’t touch anything else. I personally keep my painting taped down to a board to allow for me to place my painting safely inside a carrier if I need to do so.

Art Supplies to Speed up Drying Time

If you are using oil paints and would rather not have to deal with wet paintings while traveling. There are specific travel art supplies that can help speed up the drying time.

Liquin for traveling artists

Liquin will help a great deal to speed up the drying time! Using just a little will go a long way. Add it to your paint at times when you would normally use linseed oil to thin out your paint.

Whenever I use Liquin in a painting, I take out a small amount of it from the jar using a palette knife and place a little pile of it onto my palette. This way it is easy for me to add it as needed while I mix my oil paints .

Lightweight Travel Easels

An easel can be a little bit of a headache for artists who are traveling, as it is most likely the largest item out of all your travel art supplies. However, there are some great travel easel options out there for every budget!

Pochade boxes for travelers

A pochade box is one of the most popular easels for plein air painters and traveling artists. They are also quite historical as they came into popularity in the 19th century when artists started to paint out of doors. Pochade boxes tend to be small and are highly portable as you can store not just your materials inside them but also your painting. You can purchase one or make your own out of a cigar box!

French easel travel supplies

I personally use a French easel when I travel as well as in my studio. So, it is nice to be able to use the same easel that I always use when on the go. Similar to the pochade box, it allows you to store a lot of supplies inside the easel including your palette. It can be folded up smaller which makes it easy to carry and transport.

However, the downside to a French easel however is that it can be a bit heavier than other options, due to its wood construction. So, if you are looking for something particularly lightweight, this might not be the best option for you.

Tripod easel with palette box

The tripod easel and palette box can sometimes be a good alternative to the traditional French easel. The versions made out of aluminum can be lighter weight and less prone to breakage. In addition, this variety gives you a good distance between the painting and the palette – something missing with a pochade box.

A good camera tripod easel with a palette box can be a little pricey. However, if you are planning to do a lot of plein air painting or walking with your painting supplies. It is really worth it to get a lightweight easel, as your back will thank you! 🙂

Brushes and Brush Cleaner

For traveling I recommend the Guerilla ‘mighty mite brush washer’ . It is leak proof, you don’t have to worry about soiling things when traveling with with linseed oil or turpenoid. In addition, it works as a terrific brush cleaner that lasts a long time.

Palette cups

You could also use oil painting palette cups. These are small metal cups that you can clip onto your palette. They are not meant to be a brush cleaners however. So you can’t clean your brush in this as thoroughly as you could in a regular brush cleaner. However, these make for super useful travel art supplies. As they work great as receptacles to keep your linseed oil and or turpenoid in – when you need to use those in your painting.

Paints for Travel

Most paint tubes come in a large or small size – typically 37 ml or 150 ml size tubes. So, when traveling with your painting supplies it is best to use small sized tubes. As this will help a great deal with keeping the weight down.

If small sized paint tubes are still too heavy and you don’t need to take that much paint with you… Then you could purchase small containers to store your paint in. Just keep in mind, that the paint will dry quicker in such containers than if it remained in a tube!

So, if you are planning to travel and paint for just a few days then small containers work nicely. However, not if you will be on the go with your travel art supplies for a couple of weeks or longer. As the paint will likely dry out over that period time.

If you haven’t already – grab my FREE Color Mixing Guide for helpful color mixing instructions and techniques!

Traveling with Oil Paints on an Airplane

It is possible to travel with your oil painting supplies on an airplane . However, there are a few things that are valuable to know before you start packing your travel art supplies! After traveling many times with oil paints – believe me when I say that you will appreciate knowing how to fly with oil paints!

Start Taking your Travel Art Supplies with you!

Whether you are traveling by car or plane, all of the tips for painting above will help a great deal. As you now have a good base of which are the best travel art supplies to take with you. So that you can have a smooth experience as a traveling artist.

It can be extra work to carry your painting supplies with you on the move – but doing so is deeply rewarding and more than worth it…

The experience of getting to paint the places you visit is very rich. You notice and experience things you would not have otherwise. And, you have the extra perk of having a recorded visual memory of your travels!

Have you ever painted while traveling before? If so, I would love to hear how your experience went! What travel art supplies do you wish you had brought with you or maybe left behind?

Want to remember this? Save  9+ Best Travel Art Supplies  to your favorite Pinterest board!

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4 thoughts on “9+ best travel art supplies for painting artists who travel”.

I am not traveling very far but when I do travel I have a few art supplies! And I have taken a couple of trips to Yosemite National Park, and Big Sur, and even Lake Tahoe it was beautiful with so much to paint! I have a few travel watercolor sets! And I have gotten good at scouting out a spot with natural beauty as well as shade!

Hi Abbi – oh that is wonderful that you have taken your art supplies with you to some of those beautiful places! Watercolor sets are the best for traveling as they don’t require many materials. I have found that painting in different places does make you better at being able to scout good painting locations – and its wonderful when shade accompanies a good painting view 😉

Hi Elizabeth! I have been Plein Aire painting for years. Since I paint locally one of the best aids is my garden wagon. It collapses and stays in the car trunk ready to load up and head into nature filled up with all the painting supplies mentioned. It is better than using a backpack!

Hi Sandy! Oh that is a really good tip. What a great setup to be able to collapse it and keep it in your car. I completely agree – Carrying everything in a backpack can be quite exhausting as once you reach your destination you are a bit too tired to paint! 😉

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Ask The RV Engineer

How to paint a rusted rv travel trailer frame.

I may sound like a broken record, but I’ll say it again: Don’t treat your RV like you treat your car.

You can drive a Honda CRV for 16 years and 260,000 miles, never paint the underbody, endure harsh northeastern winters, never go through a carwash – and not even get a pinhole leak in the exhaust pipe.

(Just look in my garage for all the proof you need).

If you put that many miles on your travel trailer without attending to the underbody and frame, I’d wager a wheel or two would fall off.

More than one new RV owner has felt the piercing pain of peeking under a 7-month-old RV to find a rusty, ochre steel frame and peeling, faded paint.

Ouch. Who’s to blame??

Is RV Frame Rust Covered Under Warranty?

Regrettably, trailer frame rust is often NOT covered under the standard RV warranty.

• Your dealer will blame the manufacturer for using shoddy materials.
• Your manufacturer will blame the dealer for not washing off the road salts when the RV first arrived at the dealership.
• Or your manufacturer might blame Lippert or Norco/BAL as the “3rd party supplier.”

It’s really frustrating, isn’t it? Even if frame rust is covered by the warranty, many RV warranties are only one year long. You might have no option but to fix it yourself.

If you’re wondering how to repaint and repair a rusty travel trailer frame, you’ve found the right guide!

(Or better yet, how to undercoat an RV for semi-permanent protection!)

In addition to being an RV engineer, I’ve restored a handful of utility trailers. Painting a chassis frame isn’t necessarily difficult, but it is a lot of sweaty, dusty work. I hope to set you off in the right direction so you don’t waste time.

Why Do RV Trailer Frames Rust So Quickly?

Everyone knows water, either rain or humidity, will rust steel. It’s a chemical process called oxidation.

Rust is the steel’s way of protecting itself from further damage. Unfortunately, rust is usually loose and flaky, so it doesn’t do a very good job. Mother Nature wins eventually!

Fun fact: There are steel alloys, called weathering steel or Cor-Ten steel, which develop a much stronger, more durable layer of rust for long-lasting protection. Weathering steel is often used on bridges and architectural elements. It doesn’t have to be painted.

Salt accelerates the rusting process because it dissolves in water to form an electrolytic solution (sorry for the big words!). As you may remember from my geek’s guide to your RV battery, an electrolyte is how a battery transfers electrons from cathode to anode –

Well, we’re getting too technical here. You already know the result: Salt kills steel. That’s one reason winter driving can be so hard on your RV.

And the only thing standing in the way of your frame and total environmental annihilation is: The paint!

How Are RV Frames Finished From the Factory?

There are four basic methods to finish an RV chassis frame:

• Powder-coated

There’s nothing inherently wrong with any of these methods! They all have their pros and cons.

• Galvanizing is arguably the most durable, but it’s the most difficult to weld onto.
• Painting can provide excellent performance, but it requires skilled labor and careful cleaning.
• Powder-coating has excellent abrasion resistance, but touchup is finicky.
• E-coating gives great coverage, but the film is incredibly thin – generally no more than 1-2 thousandths of an inch!

Many of these methods work best when the entire frame, not just individual parts, are dipped/spray/baked.

The most popular method (by far) is e-coating. That’s how Lippert and BAL finish most of their RV frames.

And … Here’s where we have to get uncomfortably honest.

It’s no secret that travel trailer frames have the worst reputation for rusting of any RV type. That’s because they’re typically built to the lowest price point.

In contrast, luxury 5th wheels and motorhomes may have the frame coated with a heavy rubberized undercoat from day one!

It’s also no secret that Lippert builds the huge majority of the travel trailer frame s in the RV industry. And this B2B relationship is … complicated. Because Lippert will shrug and say, “We build to the manufacturer’s specs.”

But the manufacturer will protest, “It’s not our job to specify minimum e-coating thicknesses! And Lippert leverages its monopolistic power to herd all its vendors to the same price point, same design, and same quality finish so that they can quickly fulfill orders.”

(And we haven’t even talked about the dealer, who really should wash off those road salts before letting the trailer sit outside for 8 months!)

Like I said, it’s complicated. Even if you purchase from a smaller manufacturer, you’re not always guaranteed top-tier quality.

Most “job shop” manufacturers don’t have access to the huge vats or ovens required for full-chassis e-coating or powder-coating. So they paint. And there’s a huge difference in quality between a rattle-can acrylic and 2-part catalyzed urethane.

There’s also a huge difference in film thickness consistency between a painter with 20 years’ experience vs. a rookie who leaves runs and overspray and forgets to prime the welds.

Plus, you’ve probably heard the saying “paint is only as good as the prep.” Unless the frame is carefully sandblasted or acid-washed (and don’t forget about degreasing and priming the welds!), then the topcoat won’t hold up.

So for one reason or another, most travel trailer or 5th wheel frames will require paint touchup in order to last 10+ years without severe rust.

Not saying motorhomes are exempt from poor paint jobs. But as a rule, factory-finished chassis from Ford, Ram, Mercedes-Benz, Freightliner, Spartan, and other chassis manufacturers tend to last much, much longer.

How to Prevent Rust on an RV Chassis Frame

Get ahead of the game. As the old saying goes, “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.”

I don’t agree with the claim that “surface rust is nothing to worry about.”

While it is true that surface rust doesn’t structurally weaken the metal, it’s visual proof that your frame is naked and unprotected. And any rusty areas will blossom as water peels off the surrounding metal.

Wash Your RV Underbody

At a bare minimum, wash the underside of your RV after every trip, especially after driving in the winter, or before going into storage.

Undercoat Your New Camper

Even better, go undercoat your camper! Right now! Don’t wait for rust spots to start blossoming! That’ll just weaken the bond between the undercoat and the frame.

If you’re serious about preventing rust on your RV frame for the lifespan of the RV, you should undercoat your RV first thing.

This is a dirty, messy job that you’ll probably pay someone else to do. Doing it yourself with an aerosol undercoating spray is expensive and unhealthy.

If you’re dead set on doing it yourself, though, or if you only need to coat a small area, you can go with 3M Professional Grade Black Rubberized Undercoating or Rustoleum Professional Grade Rubberized Undercoating.

Don’t buy some no-name knockoff cheap undercoating products. These chemical concoctions are often 30% solvents or more by weight. They’ll shrink, flake, and won’t stick to anything remotely dirty.

Genuine undercoating is quite thick (10-30 mils), 4-10x thicker than paint. You can get wax, asphalt, polyurethane, or rubber-based coatings. The good, thick stuff is usually applied with a disposable Shultz spray gun and should last the lifespan of your camper.

Use a Rust-Proofing Product

If you can’t afford a true undercoating, go for a rust-proofing spray (aka rust inhibitors, corrosion protectants).These sprays (some are brush-applied liquids) are usually a grease, wax, or oil. They form a sacrificial layer and will slowly wear off over time.

One of the most popular rust inhibitors is called Fluid Film.

Most rust inhibitor products should be reapplied every 1-3 years. If you travel in the winter, you’ll need to reapply more often. They absolutely do work, but they’ll require more maintenance than a permanent undercoating.

How to Repaint a Rusty Travel Trailer Frame?

If you didn’t take my ^advice, you’re likely now facing a rusty trailer frame after a few years of ownership, possibly with deep flaking or pitting.

How to repair a rusted trailer frame is simple, but not necessarily easy. It’s a 5-step process.*

• Remove loose rust
• Convert hardened rust
• Tape and protect the work area
• Clean, prep, and prime the metal
• Apply the topcoat

*And this assumes the metal is worth saving. Considering that many RV chassis components are made with 14-gauge steel (0.080 inches thick), it doesn’t take much rust to ruin a part!

1. Remove Loose Rust

In theory, this is where you bust out your sandblaster and return the frame to bare metal, but seeing as that’s unlikely …

You’ll need a stiff wire brush, a wire brush drill attachment, or an angle grinder with an abrasive flapper disc. Don’t waste time with steel wool or a toothbrush or anything like that.

I vote for the angle grinder. You’ll save boatloads of time.

At a minimum, you’ll need to remove all loose, flaky, or peeling rust. No exceptions.

If you’re willing to grind the rust off down to bare metal, that’s good too, but not always necessary. And some primers designed to work on rusty metal don’t work on bare metal and vice versa.

2. Convert the Hardened Rust

If you have a deeply rusted frame, don’t skip this part!

You need to neutralize, convert, and seal the rust. You need to use a product like Eastwood Rust Converter, POR-15, or Rustoleum Rust Reformer that chemically converts the remaining rust into a more durable, non-rusting surface.

If you cheap out on a rust converter, at least prime any rusty areas with a metal primer designed for maximum adhesion.

3. Tape the Area/Protect Yourself!

Use painter’s tape, cling firm, and tarps to protect the RV underbody and your work floor from damage. My favorite painter’s tape is Frog tape.

Pay attention to your own PPE. Don’t get nasty paints and primers all over your skin. Wear long sleeves, work in a well-ventilated area, and wear a NIOSH respirator to protect your lungs from solvents.

4. Clean and Prep the Metal Surfaces

90 percent of painting is prep work! You’ll need to thoroughly clean any part of the chassis that will be painted.

Start with a degreaser to remove road grime and film protectants. Clean that up with mild soap and water. Then rinse with just water – and immediately wipe dry to prevent flash rusting!

Pay particular attention to welds. Welds are often the first areas on a frame to start rusting if they weren’t properly prepped at the factory.

If you’re painting bare metal, you should apply an acid-etching primer to the bare metal.

If 90 percent of the paint is still in good shape, you might not need to do anything more than scuff it up with a power sander and 180- to 300-grit sandpaper. Scuffing the paint will promote adhesion.

5. Start Painting!

Now the fun begins! Apply your chosen topcoat to the cleaned, primed surface. Work in thin, even coats. Give adequate time to dry.

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions! You can’t cheat chemistry. If the instructions say to wait 8 hours but no more than 24 hours, you do that, d*mmit!

Stay Away from Aerosol Cans!

Don’t use a rattle can for anything except touch-up and hard-to-reach spots. The coats look good, but they’re super thin. And you can’t overspray a coat without trapping solvents and creating runs. You need at least 5-6 coats for decent coverage.

Apply a Primer Coat

Even combination paints+primers will normally benefit from a dedicated primer coat.

• If you used POR-15, you should use a POR-15 recommended topcoat, such as their enamel Top Coat or 2K Urethane products.
• If you sanded down to bare metal, you might use a DTM (direct-to-metal) 2k epoxy primer like Eastwood Epoxy Primer and catalyst.
• If you’re short on cash but still want to do the job right, you might use good ol’ Rust-Oleum Rusty Metal or Clean Metal primer.

Finish with the Top Coat

Most primers and rust converters aren’t UV-resistant, so they need to be protected by a topcoat.

Option 1: Farm and Tractor Paint

If you’re a good-enough-is-perfect type of person, you can’t go wrong with tractor paint! Get some Rustoleum Farm and Implement or Valspar Tractor and Implement paint. This stuff is relatively cheap, thick, durable, and goes on smoothly. For the price, it seriously can’t be beat.

If you can’t pick up tractor paint at your local Tractor Supply or Orschelen’s, you can also get by with a general-purpose metal topcoat Rust-Oleum Professional Grade Protective Metal Enamel.

Option 2: Top-Tier Topcoats

But if you’re a perfect-is-good-enough type of person – well, then honestly, I recommend taking your RV to a professional painter. Most top-dollar topcoats are designed to be catalyzed with a hardener and then applied with a spray gun and HVLP system. Not something most people have in their garage!

With that said, there are several high-quality, industrial-grade topcoats available to the homeowner, such as POR-15 2k Urethane or Eastwood Extreme Chassis.

There are many other topcoats on the market. I’m not a professional painter myself, so feel free to contact your local PPG or Sherwin Williams rep and see what they recommend!

With that said, please remember this is an RV, not an offshore oil derrick. Don’t over-complicate things! There’s no sense in painting a Jayco Jay Feather so the chassis lasts for 75 years – nothing else will!

So, that’s how you paint an RV frame.

If it sounds like a lot of work, it is. That’s why I recommend undercoating your RV before rust ever has a chance to rear its ugly head. Or at least apply a seasonal rust inhibitor like Fluid Film.

“Out of sight, out of mind” is terrible advice for maintaining an RV frame. To keep your chassis frame in tip-top condition, you need to annually inspect and repair any signs of rusting. Otherwise, you’ll be back at this article again, wire brush in hand.

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The Moscow Metro Museum of Art: 10 Must-See Stations

There are few times one can claim having been on the subway all afternoon and loving it, but the Moscow Metro provides just that opportunity.  While many cities boast famous public transport systems—New York’s subway, London’s underground, San Salvador’s chicken buses—few warrant hours of exploration.  Moscow is different: Take one ride on the Metro, and you’ll find out that this network of railways can be so much more than point A to B drudgery.

The Metro began operating in 1935 with just thirteen stations, covering less than seven miles, but it has since grown into the world’s third busiest transit system ( Tokyo is first ), spanning about 200 miles and offering over 180 stops along the way.  The construction of the Metro began under Joseph Stalin’s command, and being one of the USSR’s most ambitious building projects, the iron-fisted leader instructed designers to create a place full of svet (radiance) and svetloe budushchee (a radiant future), a palace for the people and a tribute to the Mother nation.

Consequently, the Metro is among the most memorable attractions in Moscow.  The stations provide a unique collection of public art, comparable to anything the city’s galleries have to offer and providing a sense of the Soviet era, which is absent from the State National History Museum.  Even better, touring the Metro delivers palpable, experiential moments, which many of us don’t get standing in front of painting or a case of coins.

Though tours are available , discovering the Moscow Metro on your own provides a much more comprehensive, truer experience, something much less sterile than following a guide.  What better place is there to see the “real” Moscow than on mass transit: A few hours will expose you to characters and caricatures you’ll be hard-pressed to find dining near the Bolshoi Theater.  You become part of the attraction, hear it in the screech of the train, feel it as hurried commuters brush by: The Metro sucks you beneath the city and churns you into the mix.

With the recommendations of our born-and-bred Muscovite students, my wife Emma and I have just taken a self-guided tour of what some locals consider the top ten stations of the Moscow Metro. What most satisfied me about our Metro tour was the sense of adventure .  I loved following our route on the maps of the wagon walls as we circled the city, plotting out the course to the subsequent stops; having the weird sensation of being underground for nearly four hours; and discovering the next cavern of treasures, playing Indiana Jones for the afternoon, piecing together fragments of Russia’s mysterious history.  It’s the ultimate interactive museum.

Top Ten Stations (In order of appearance)

Kievskaya station.

Kievskaya Station went public in March of 1937, the rails between it and Park Kultury Station being the first to cross the Moscow River.  Kievskaya is full of mosaics depicting aristocratic scenes of Russian life, with great cameo appearances by Lenin, Trotsky, and Stalin.  Each work has a Cyrillic title/explanation etched in the marble beneath it; however, if your Russian is rusty, you can just appreciate seeing familiar revolutionary dates like 1905 ( the Russian Revolution ) and 1917 ( the October Revolution ).

Mayakovskaya Station

Mayakovskaya Station ranks in my top three most notable Metro stations. Mayakovskaya just feels right, done Art Deco but no sense of gaudiness or pretention.  The arches are adorned with rounded chrome piping and create feeling of being in a jukebox, but the roof’s expansive mosaics of the sky are the real showstopper.  Subjects cleverly range from looking up at a high jumper, workers atop a building, spires of Orthodox cathedrals, to nimble aircraft humming by, a fleet of prop planes spelling out CCCP in the bluest of skies.

Novoslobodskaya Station

Novoslobodskaya is the Metro’s unique stained glass station.  Each column has its own distinctive panels of colorful glass, most of them with a floral theme, some of them capturing the odd sailor, musician, artist, gardener, or stenographer in action.  The glass is framed in Art Deco metalwork, and there is the lovely aspect of discovering panels in the less frequented haunches of the hall (on the trackside, between the incoming staircases).  Novosblod is, I’ve been told, the favorite amongst out-of-town visitors.

Komsomolskaya Station

Komsomolskaya Station is one of palatial grandeur.  It seems both magnificent and obligatory, like the presidential palace of a colonial city.  The yellow ceiling has leafy, white concrete garland and a series of golden military mosaics accenting the tile mosaics of glorified Russian life.  Switching lines here, the hallway has an Alice-in-Wonderland feel, impossibly long with decorative tile walls, culminating in a very old station left in a remarkable state of disrepair, offering a really tangible glimpse behind the palace walls.

Dostoevskaya Station

Dostoevskaya is a tribute to the late, great hero of Russian literature .  The station at first glance seems bare and unimpressive, a stark marble platform without a whiff of reassembled chips of tile.  However, two columns have eerie stone inlay collages of scenes from Dostoevsky’s work, including The Idiot , The Brothers Karamazov , and Crime and Punishment.   Then, standing at the center of the platform, the marble creates a kaleidoscope of reflections.  At the entrance, there is a large, inlay portrait of the author.

Chkalovskaya Station

Chkalovskaya does space Art Deco style (yet again).  Chrome borders all.  Passageways with curvy overhangs create the illusion of walking through the belly of a chic, new-age spacecraft.  There are two (kos)mosaics, one at each end, with planetary subjects.  Transferring here brings you above ground, where some rather elaborate metalwork is on display.  By name similarity only, I’d expected Komsolskaya Station to deliver some kosmonaut décor; instead, it was Chkalovskaya that took us up to the space station.

Elektrozavodskaya Station

Elektrozavodskaya is full of marble reliefs of workers, men and women, laboring through the different stages of industry.  The superhuman figures are round with muscles, Hollywood fit, and seemingly undeterred by each Herculean task they respectively perform.  The station is chocked with brass, from hammer and sickle light fixtures to beautiful, angular framework up the innards of the columns.  The station’s art pieces are less clever or extravagant than others, but identifying the different stages of industry is entertaining.

Baumanskaya Statio

Baumanskaya Station is the only stop that wasn’t suggested by the students.  Pulling in, the network of statues was just too enticing: Out of half-circle depressions in the platform’s columns, the USSR’s proud and powerful labor force again flaunts its success.  Pilots, blacksmiths, politicians, and artists have all congregated, posing amongst more Art Deco framing.  At the far end, a massive Soviet flag dons the face of Lenin and banners for ’05, ’17, and ‘45.  Standing in front of the flag, you can play with the echoing roof.

Ploshchad Revolutsii Station

Novokuznetskaya Station

Novokuznetskaya Station finishes off this tour, more or less, where it started: beautiful mosaics.  This station recalls the skyward-facing pieces from Mayakovskaya (Station #2), only with a little larger pictures in a more cramped, very trafficked area.  Due to a line of street lamps in the center of the platform, it has the atmosphere of a bustling market.  The more inventive sky scenes include a man on a ladder, women picking fruit, and a tank-dozer being craned in.  The station’s also has a handsome black-and-white stone mural.

Here is a map and a brief description of our route:

Start at (1)Kievskaya on the “ring line” (look for the squares at the bottom of the platform signs to help you navigate—the ring line is #5, brown line) and go north to Belorusskaya, make a quick switch to the Dark Green/#2 line, and go south one stop to (2)Mayakovskaya.  Backtrack to the ring line—Brown/#5—and continue north, getting off at (3)Novosblodskaya and (4)Komsolskaya.  At Komsolskaya Station, transfer to the Red/#1 line, go south for two stops to Chistye Prudy, and get on the Light Green/#10 line going north.  Take a look at (5)Dostoevskaya Station on the northern segment of Light Green/#10 line then change directions and head south to (6)Chkalovskaya, which offers a transfer to the Dark Blue/#3 line, going west, away from the city center.  Have a look (7)Elektroskaya Station before backtracking into the center of Moscow, stopping off at (8)Baumskaya, getting off the Dark Blue/#3 line at (9)Ploschad Revolyutsii.  Change to the Dark Green/#2 line and go south one stop to see (10)Novokuznetskaya Station.

Check out our new Moscow Indie Travel Guide , book a flight to Moscow and read 10 Bars with Views Worth Blowing the Budget For

Jonathon Engels, formerly a patron saint of misadventure, has been stumbling his way across cultural borders since 2005 and is currently volunteering in the mountains outside of Antigua, Guatemala.  For more of his work, visit his website and blog .

Photo credits:   SergeyRod , all others courtesy of the author and may not be used without permission

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Trains Moscow to Elektrostal: Times, Prices and Tickets

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Moscow to Elektrostal by train

The journey from Moscow to Elektrostal by train is 32.44 mi and takes 2 hr 7 min. There are 71 connections per day, with the first departure at 12:15 AM and the last at 11:46 PM. It is possible to travel from Moscow to Elektrostal by train for as little as or as much as . The best price for this journey is .

Get from Moscow to Elektrostal with Virail

Virail's search tool will provide you with the options you need when you want to go from Moscow to Elektrostal. All you need to do is enter the dates of your planned journey, and let us take care of everything else. Our engine does the hard work, searching through thousands of routes offered by our trusted travel partners to show you options for traveling by train, bus, plane, or carpool. You can filter the results to suit your needs. There are a number of filtering options, including price, one-way or round trip, departure or arrival time, duration of journey, or number of connections. Soon you'll find the best choice for your journey. When you're ready, Virail will transfer you to the provider's website to complete the booking. No matter where you're going, get there with Virail.

How can I find the cheapest train tickets to get from Moscow to Elektrostal?

Prices will vary when you travel from Moscow to Elektrostal. On average, though, you'll pay about for a train ticket. You can find train tickets for prices as low as , but it may require some flexibility with your travel plans. If you're looking for a low price, you may need to prepare to spend more time in transit. You can also often find cheaper train tickets at particular times of day, or on certain days of the week. Of course, ticket prices often change during the year, too; expect to pay more in peak season. For the lowest prices, it's usually best to make your reservation in advance. Be careful, though, as many providers do not offer refunds or exchanges on their cheapest train tickets. Unfortunately, no price was found for your trip from Moscow to Elektrostal. Selecting a new departure or arrival city, without dramatically changing your itinerary could help you find price results. Prices will vary when you travel from Moscow to Elektrostal. On average, though, you'll pay about for a train ticket. If you're looking for a low price, you may need to prepare to spend more time in transit. You can also often find cheaper train tickets at particular times of day, or on certain days of the week. Of course, ticket prices often change during the year, too; expect to pay more in peak season. For the lowest prices, it's usually best to make your reservation in advance. Be careful, though, as many providers do not offer refunds or exchanges on their cheapest train tickets.

How long does it take to get from Moscow to Elektrostal by train?

The journey between Moscow and Elektrostal by train is approximately 32.44 mi. It will take you more or less 2 hr 7 min to complete this journey. This average figure does not take into account any delays that might arise on your route in exceptional circumstances. If you are planning to make a connection or operating on a tight schedule, give yourself plenty of time. The distance between Moscow and Elektrostal is around 32.44 mi. Depending on the exact route and provider you travel with, your journey time can vary. On average, this journey will take approximately 2 hr 7 min. However, the fastest routes between Moscow and Elektrostal take 1 hr 3 min. If a fast journey is a priority for you when traveling, look out for express services that may get you there faster. Some flexibility may be necessary when booking. Often, these services only leave at particular times of day - or even on certain days of the week. You may also find a faster journey by taking an indirect route and connecting in another station along the way.

How many journeys from Moscow to Elektrostal are there every day?

On average, there are 71 daily departures from Moscow to Elektrostal. However, there may be more or less on different days. Providers' timetables can change on certain days of the week or public holidays, and many also vary at particular times of year. Some providers change their schedules during the summer season, for example. At very busy times, there may be up to departures each day. The providers that travel along this route include , and each operates according to their own specific schedules. As a traveler, you may prefer a direct journey, or you may not mind making changes and connections. If you have heavy suitcases, a direct journey could be best; otherwise, you might be able to save money and enjoy more flexibility by making a change along the way. Every day, there are an average of 18 departures from Moscow which travel directly to Elektrostal. There are 53 journeys with one change or more. Unfortunately, no connection was found for your trip from Moscow to Elektrostal. Selecting a new departure or arrival city, without dramatically changing your itinerary could help you find connections.

Book in advance and save

If you're looking for the best deal for your trip from Moscow to Elektrostal, booking train tickets in advance is a great way to save money, but keep in mind that advance tickets are usually not available until 3 months before your travel date.

Stay flexible with your travel time and explore off-peak journeys

Planning your trips around off-peak travel times not only means that you'll be able to avoid the crowds, but can also end up saving you money. Being flexible with your schedule and considering alternative routes or times will significantly impact the amount of money you spend on getting from Moscow to Elektrostal.

Always check special offers

Checking on the latest deals can help save a lot of money, making it worth taking the time to browse and compare prices. So make sure you get the best deal on your ticket and take advantage of special fares for children, youth and seniors as well as discounts for groups.

Unlock the potential of slower trains or connecting trains

If you're planning a trip with some flexible time, why not opt for the scenic route? Taking slower trains or connecting trains that make more stops may save you money on your ticket – definitely worth considering if it fits in your schedule.

Best time to book cheap train tickets from Moscow to Elektrostal

The cheapest Moscow - Elektrostal train tickets can be found for as low as $35.01 if you’re lucky, or $54.00 on average. The most expensive ticket can cost as much as $77.49.

Find the best day to travel to Elektrostal by train

When travelling to Elektrostal by train, if you want to avoid crowds you can check how frequently our customers are travelling in the next 30-days using the graph below. On average, the peak hours to travel are between 6:30am and 9am in the morning, or between 4pm and 7pm in the evening. Please keep this in mind when travelling to your point of departure as you may need some extra time to arrive, particularly in big cities!

Moscow to Elektrostal CO2 Emissions by Train

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Na Ulitse Yalagina 13B Apartments

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• Electrostal History and Art Museum

You can spend time exploring the galleries in Electrostal History and Art Museum in Elektrostal. Take in the museums while you're in the area.

• Cities near Elektrostal

• Places of interest
• Yuri Gagarin Cosmonaut Training Center
• Peter the Great Military Academy
• Central Museum of the Air Forces at Monino
• History of Russian Scarfs and Shawls Museum
• Balashikha Arena
• Balashikha Museum of History and Local Lore
• Bykovo Manor
• Pekhorka Park
• Ramenskii History and Art Museum
• Malenky Puppet Theater
• Drama Theatre BOOM
• Likino Dulevo Museum of Local Lore
• Noginsk Museum and Exhibition Center
• Pavlovsky Posad Museum of Art and History
• Saturn Stadium
• Fairy Tale Children's Model Puppet Theater
• Fifth House Gallery
• Church of Vladimir
• Malakhovka Museum of History and Culture
• Orekhovo Zuevsky City Exhibition Hall

Destinations in May

Destinations in 2024.

Please note prices are based on two persons sharing a twin/double room. Single room supplements may apply, please call check single availability/price.

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The journey from Moscow to Elektrostal by train is 32.44 mi and takes 2 hr 7 min. There are 71 connections per day, with the first departure at 12:15 AM and the last at 11:46 PM. It is possible to travel from Moscow to Elektrostal by train for as little as or as much as . The best price for this journey is . Journey Duration.

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Cities near Elektrostal. Places of interest. Pavlovskiy Posad Noginsk. Travel guide resource for your visit to Elektrostal. Discover the best of Elektrostal so you can plan your trip right.