visit cap moderne

• Eileen Gray
• Le Corbusier
• Thomas Rebutato

• Making A Donation
• Villa E-1027
• Etoile de Mer- Cabins
• The Cabanon
• Press Coverage
• Who are we?
• Virtual Tour
• Documentation
• Making a donation
• Rental & shoots

Please prepare your visit to E-1027 by clicking the link: https://capmoderne.monuments-nationaux.fr/en/

Booking is compulsory

Association Cap Moderne

Esplanade of the railway station of Cap-Martin Roquebrune (sometimes referred to as the gare de Cabbé) Avenue Le Corbusier 06190 Roquebrune Cap-Martin

Both the reception and ticket-office are located in a big converted warehouse at the Cap-Martin Roquebrune station (by the car park on the south side).

Tours start from the ticket office.

We recommend that you come by rail if possible using the local TER stopping train (TER Nice-Ventimiglia line).

The station forecourt is not accessible to coaches so groups arriving by this means of transport are advised to alight at another station along the line and then travel on by train to Cap-Martin Roquebrune station.

TER PACA / Nice –Ventimiglia line /station stop Cap-Martin Roquebrune For train times refer to the Nice – Ventimiglia timetable at www.ter.sncf.com/paca

Lignes d'Azur / Nice - Menton line/bus stop “ Quatre Chemins” at Roquebrune Cap-Martin (allow 20 minutes for the walk from the bus stop)

Consult the timetable for the No. 100 bus from Nice or the 110 bus from Nice airport at  www.lignesdazur.com

Warning: no access for tourist coaches at Cabbé station.

GPS coordinates : latitude 43.760223 - longitude 7.456758

Warning: very few parking spaces are available on the south side of Cabbé station

• Cap Moderne
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Cap Moderne, iconic Mediterranean coastline architecture!

Close to monaco, cap moderne enjoys an exceptional natural setting with a panoramic view over the mediterranean..

Villa E-1027 was created between 1926 and 1929 by Eileen Gray. It overlooks the bay of Roquebrune Cap-Martin looking out towards Monaco. A friend of the couple, Le Corbusier also became a close friend of Thomas Rebutato, owner of the restaurant l’Etoile de Mer. Le Corbusier developed five camping units built on stilts for his family, which he decorated with modern murals. He finished his work with the famous Cabanon in which he spent his summers until his death in 1965. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Cap moderne

Villa E-1027, unique testimony to modern architecture

Eileen gray’s villa is the first architectural creation in this symbolic real estate development..

An icon of 20th century modern architecture, it defines itself as a holiday resort and a manifesto for outdoor living. Eileen Gray brought an avant-garde vision not only to the architecture itself but also to the fixtures and fittings, furniture, lighting and décor that are inseparable from it.

Practical information

Tariffs, opening times… find all the practical information you need to visit cap moderne here..

Open: Visits must be booked in advance. High season from 9.45 am to 12.30 pm and from 1.30 pm to 5.30 pm. Low season from 9. 45 am to 12. 30 pm and from 1. 30 pm to 5 pm.

Closed: From 1 November to 31 March. 1 May. Times subject to change.

Price: Adults: €18 7-18 year olds: €10 Free for children under 7.

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Cap Moderne - All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go - Visiting Tips (2024)

• (0.04 km) MONTECARLO French Riviera
• (0.06 km) Le Golfe Bleu
• (0.16 km) COTE' D'AZUR Costa Azzurra Montecarlo Monaco Rpquebrune cap s Martin
• (0.30 km) Hôtel Le Roquebrune
• (0.31 km) Villa La Quinta
• (0.18 km) Le Cabanon plage du Buse
• (0.55 km) La Grotte & L'Olivier
• (0.63 km) Au Grand Inquisiteur
• (0.59 km) La Roquebrunoise Restaurant
• (0.56 km) Casarella Restaurant

History of Cap Moderne, Eileen Gray and Le Corbusier at Cap Martin

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Cap Moderne

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Cap Moderne - All You MUST Know Before You Go (2024)

• (0.04 km) MONTECARLO French Riviera
• (0.06 km) Le Golfe Bleu
• (0.16 km) COTE' D'AZUR Costa Azzurra Montecarlo Monaco Rpquebrune cap s Martin
• (0.30 km) Hôtel Le Roquebrune
• (0.31 km) Villa La Quinta
• (0.18 km) Le Cabanon plage du Buse
• (0.55 km) La Grotte & L'Olivier
• (0.63 km) Au Grand Inquisiteur
• (0.59 km) La Roquebrunoise Restaurant
• (0.56 km) Casarella Restaurant

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Inside the Cap Moderne on the French Riviera

By Christopher Beanland

The French Riviera east of Monaco is better known for its dramatic natural beauty than for its rigorous mid-century architecture, but where the Mediterranean crashes against the rocks and coves of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin lies a pocket of globally important buildings: Eileen Gray's villa E-1027 , Le Corbusier's beach house Le Cabanon , Thomas Rebutato's restaurant L'Etoile de Mer (where this set often dined) and holiday cabins Les Unités de Camping . This summer you can visit these masterpieces of modernism - restored, together - for the first time. And in celebration of the relaunch, this sliver of coastline is branded Cap Moderne .

'The reopening of the whole site is important because some great personal adventures took place here as well as great architecture,' says Cap Moderne's Hélène Fincker, who has helped manage the project.

The story behind E-1027 is as interesting as its sweeping, ocean-liner shapes, which still inspire architects today. Its coded name intertwines the designer's initials (E for Eileen and 7 for the seventh letter of the alphabet, G) with those of her then lover Jean Badovici. And a new biopic of Gray's life, The Price of Desire , starring Alanis Morissette (among others), sheds fresh light on her fascinating story. It depicts the often-tumultuous relationship between the Irish architect and Swiss modernist Le Corbusier, who stayed at Gray's house in the late 1930s and painted large murals on the walls, which she considered an act of vandalism. A couple of decades later, Le Corbusier built Le Cabanon on a coastal path near the villa, and drowned swimming in the bay below in 1965.

Such was the condition of many of the buildings that it's taken the Conservatoire du Littoral - the French coastal agency that now has ownership - the last 15 years to restore them. In the 50th anniversary of Le Corbusier's death, and as we see Gray in a fresh light, Cap Moderne is a fitting tribute to a place where the foundations of modern architecture were laid.

' Cap Moderne ' is open this season until 31 October 2015 by guided tour, advance booking only; Tuesday to Sunday between 10am and 2pm; tickets about £15

This feature was first published in Condé Nast Traveller July 2015

By Lanie Goodman

By Condé Nast Traveller

Eileen Grays villa E-1027, South of France

Cap Moderne

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CAP MODERNE: All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (with Photos)

• (0.04 km) MONTECARLO French Riviera
• (0.06 km) Le Golfe Bleu
• (0.16 km) COTE' D'AZUR Costa Azzurra Montecarlo Monaco Rpquebrune cap s Martin
• (0.30 km) Hôtel Le Roquebrune
• (0.31 km) Villa La Quinta
• (0.18 km) Le Cabanon plage du Buse
• (0.55 km) La Grotte & L'Olivier
• (0.63 km) Au Grand Inquisiteur
• (0.59 km) La Roquebrunoise Restaurant
• (0.56 km) Casarella Restaurant

Architecture tourism in the south of France, at Cap Moderne

ROQUEBRUNE-CAP-MARTIN, France — In the category of architecture tourism, Cap Moderne is a niche within a niche: a staggeringly beautiful location next to Monaco at the Cote d’Azur, a museum of minimalist 20th century design — and a sex-charged tale of human drama as well.

The hillside campus features three emblematic architectural achievements: Eileen Gray’s Villa E-1027, Le Corbusier’s cabanon, studio, and holiday cottages, and the preserved bar and restaurant L’Etoile de Mer, run by Le Corbusier’s friend Thomas Rebutato.

The tour starts at what is now a makeshift visitor center by the Roquebrune-Cap-Martin train station, and the story unfolds in a walk-through of each of the buildings and grounds in sequence — a French version of Frank Lloyd Wright’s Fallingwater in Pennsylvania, where secrets and dreams emerge through architecture.

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A seaside village on the French Riveria close to the Italian border, Roquebrune-Cap-Martin was a getaway destination for the avante garde of Paris in the twenties; Coco Chanel built a villa there. Le Corbusier was enchanted with the location, and over the years has been its most famous summer resident. But the lesser-known designer Eileen Gray actually got there first.

The bisexual daughter of Irish aristrocacy, Gray was a pioneer in modernist furniture and objets d’art in Paris. Her lover at the time, architecture critic and bon-vivant Jean Badovici, asked her to find a spot in the South of France for a vacation house. A hardy soul, she nearly single-handedly designed and built Villa E-1027 — the name is derived from the position in the alphabet of Gray and Badovici’s initials – among the banana palms and lemon trees, a short walk up from the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean.

The two-level structure, built on stilts on the terraced hillside, is an original all-white modernist beach house, a place to cook and read books and nap in a hammock – quite possibly the best-positioned hammock of all time, under a sleek overhang at the southwest corner, with views of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin’s pebbly crescent beach and Monaco in the distance.

Gray thought of the home as a living organism, and designed every aspect to let in sunlight and breezes. Everything is neat and compact and simple, right down to the tidy built-in drawers in the bedroom. Entrez lentement – enter slowly – is printed at the vestibule, an instruction to leave your troubles behind and relax. A compact kitchen is to the left, and to the right is the main living area, with Gray’s Bibendum chair, enveloping tubes inspired by the Michelin Man, adjacent to cushioned twin deck chairs.

Villa E-1027 was completed in 1929, when Gray was 51. She participated fully in the construction, pushing wheelbarrows alongside the workers. But while Gray had in mind a peaceful retreat, Badovici mostly wanted to party. The couple drifted apart, and Gray began work on another house for herself in nearby Menton.

That’s when Le Corbusier, well on his way to becoming a star architect, came on the scene. Badovici allowed the modernist master to stay there in the 1930s with his wife, Yvonne, and Le Corbusier soon decided the place needed some livening-up. He painted a series of racy murals on the plain white walls, to Gray’s great displeasure. She considered it an act of vandalism – modernist graffiti – and even retribution. Gray had differed with Le Corbusier’s axiom that a home was a “machine for living in,” and may have thought Le Corbusier was jealous that a woman could build such a lovely structure, similar in many ways to his Villa Savoye outside Paris.

Villa E-1027 was abandoned during World War II, and Italian soldiers briefly moved in, drank wine, and used the walls for target practice. Le Corbusier returned to Roquebrune-Cap-Martin after the war, and when he couldn’t acquire the villa outright, instead started developing adjacent land owned by Rebutato, a retired plumber from Nice. He and Yvonne had become regulars at L’Etoile de Mer, feasting on sea urchins, smoking cigarettes, and drinking wine. Up went the Thoreau-like cabanon, measuring just 12 feet by 12 feet, next door, a perfect place for the busy architect to get away from it all – though he couldn’t help himself and also erected a simple one-room studio a few steps away.

The cabanon – lovingly recreated in its entirety for the Museum of Modern Art’s exhibition on Le Corbusier – has all the efficient use of space of a room on a cruise ship: a tiny kitchen, a table to eat on, built-in storage, and little windows framing the verdant world outside. The architect and his wife slept on single beds – in her case, essentially just a bench along the back wall – and the aircraft-style lavatory was tucked in the corner. Le Corbusier used the outdoor shower after his daily swim in the ocean, and the couple took virtually all their meals at the L’Etoile de Mer.

As part of this somewhat parasitic arrangement, Le Corbusier agreed to build five holiday cottages on the other side of the restaurant, which Rebutato rented out to vacationers who sought minimalist vacation digs. The two men dreamed of an even larger assembly of the cottages to accommodate mass seaside tourism, though that development never materialized.

Le Corbusier died in 1965 at the age of 78, when he took his daily swim, against doctor’s orders, due to a worsening heart condition. The Le Corbusier Foundation donated the cabanon to the French Conservatoire du Littoral, a coastal conservancy agency, in 1979, and while it was possible to arrange private tours, the complex was never consecrated as an historic site. Villa E-1027, meanwhile, was left to deteriorate completely, occupied by squatters and even becoming the scene of a murder.

Enter Michael Likierman, a British businessman who came to France in 1972 to launch the UK-based Habitat chain and went on to cofound the Grandvision corporation. Likierman had been drawn to the area himself, and took an interest in historic restoration; his vision was to group all the buildings together on a single campus, and make it an architectural tourism destination.

Several threads came together to jump-start the idea of Cap Moderne. Likierman became friends with Robert Rebutato, the son of the owner of L’Etoile de Mer, who liked the idea of preserving the hillside complex. An effort to restore Villa E-1027 got a boost when it became the shooting location for a film documenting the ménage-a-trois tale of Gray, Badovici, and Le Corbusier — “The Price of Desire,” supported by Julian Lennon and including in its cast the singer Alanis Morrisette, as Gray’s lesbian lover from Paris. The film, which debuted last year at the Dublin Film Festival, sped along the restoration work, so the villa was presentable for the cameras. It also helped to have Prince Albert of Monaco on the board of Cap Moderne, bolstering the $5 million project.

Future plans call for transforming an unused warehouse building by the train station, currently featuring portraits of the three major figures of the story — Le Corbusier, Eileen Gray, and Thomas Rebutato — into a reception, visitor center, and exhibition space. Negotiations are ongoing to purchase the vacant Villa Giori, next door to Villa E-1027, to turn it into what Likierman calls a “laboratory of living architecture” for international researchers, in a recreated atrium that once stood on the site.

There are plenty of other reasons for visiting Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, and it’s a magical place for strolling and fine dining and gazing out on the yachts anchored off the coast. Cap Moderne now offers a cultural and educational excursion to experience the quirks and foibles of 20th century design.

Anthony Flint can be reached at [email protected]

Modern Architecture Meets Mediterranean at Cap Moderne

Bordered by Monaco and Menton , the communities of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin occupy an enviable spot on the French Riviera. Wedged between the sparkling Mediterranean and the Alpes-Maritimes, there is no doubt why crowds flock to the Côte d’Azur for their holidays. Although not undiscovered in the late 1920s, the area was the “playground” of a select group that included architects who are revered a century later.

Image © Manuel Bougot

Modern Architecture

Cap Moderne, a one-time holiday refuge for creative types, is a unique property even for exclusive Cap Martin. This site includes three buildings designed by three different architects: Eileen Gray (1878 – 1976), Le Corbusier (1887 – 1965) and Thomas Egildo Rebutato (1907 – 1971). The vacation retreat suffered from the passage of time and lack of upkeep; it was an eyesore on the beautiful shoreline. It took 20 years, but eventually, the French State acquired the land and buildings and began an extensive restoration project.

Tricky and worthwhile is how Michael Likierman, the non-profit Cap Moderne Association president, described the six-year restoration project. The Association assumed the project management role in 2014, at a time when the re-construction was far from complete and funding uncertain. With the restoration finished at the end of 2020, the property transitioned to Centre des monuments nationaux for ongoing management and day to day operations. The Conservatoire du littoral , the French government organization with the mandate to safeguard the coastline, owns and protects the site.

Eileen Gray’s Villa E-1027

Villa E-1027, built over three years from 1926 to 1929, is a contemporary structure that would easily suit the California coastline or Palm Springs. Working with her partner Jean Badovici (editor of Architecture Vivante ), architect Eileen Gray embarked on her first project designing the house and all its customized furnishings, including lamps, built-ins and freestanding furniture. The villa’s unconventional name is a combination of the partners’ initials starting with E for Eileen, 10 for the letter J of Jean, 2 for the B of Badovici, and 7 for the G of Gray.

Eileen Gray’s vision for this home was a refuge where she and Badovici would work with little interruption. His notion differed and likely influenced the design. Badovici wanted a retreat by the sea where they would entertain friends. The duo only shared the property for a short period, and it remained Jean Badovici’s home until he died in 1956.

Constructed on two levels, Villa E-1027 is tiny by current standards. The L-shaped building is only 120 m2 (just under 1,300 sq ft). The home’s upper level, set on stilts, includes an open plan living room, kitchen, and entrance area. The master bedroom-studio and bathroom are also on this level, with the guest room and servant’s quarters below. Gray’s design was minimalist and neutral white. She used moveable furniture, screen partitions and functional built-ins.

Additional reading about Eileen Gray’s biography .

The Impacts of Time

A fan of the French Riviera and a friend of Jean Badovici’s, Le Corbusier stayed at Villa E-1027 twice in 1938 and 1939, during which time he painted seven murals. Badovici encouraged the artwork additions, which were not at all to Eileen Gray’s liking. The war years resulted in damage to the murals, which Le Corbusier undertook in 1949 and 1963. Over time, three of the murals have disappeared.

After Jean Badovici’s death, the villa’s ownership transitioned to Madame Schelbert, a relation of Le Corbusier, who passed it on to her doctor Peter Kaegi. Sadly, Kaegi was not interested in the villa’s upkeep nor paying his bills. Murdered by his gardener over unpaid debts, and Villa E-1027 left to squatters. When the Conservatoire du littoral when acquired Villa E-1027, the situation was bleak. The home was in structural disrepair, stripped of its furniture, and the remaining Le Corbusier murals were damaged once again.

A Big Project

It took over 20 years for the Conservatoire du Littoral to control the entire site and its structures. The Cabanon was acquired in 1979, but it wasn’t until 1999 that Villa E-1027 transitioned to the State with financial assistance from the city of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin. The Rebutato family donated l’Étoile de Mer and the cabins in 2000. However, that was only the start of the work. Restoration work between 2004 and 2012 directed by the Regional Directorate of Cultural Affairs focused on conservation. Sadly, the efforts were hampered by underfunding and other factors. In 2014, the not-for-profit Cap Moderne Association began restoring Villa E-1027 to its 1929 state, including the structure, furnishings and the garden.

When Cap Moderne Association came on board, the aim was to restore the villa and its contents as accurately as possible, using Eileen Gray’s original materials and methods. The undertaking required many expert disciplines with particular attention focused on repairing the building’s foundations after a century of exposure to sea air and heavy seasonal rainfall.

This complex project required a budget of close to five (5) million Euros. There were five significant areas requiring restoration, each representing approximately one-fifth of the financial allocation. The work included reinforcing the foundations and installing proper drainage for overflow rainwater on the whole site. All the exterior surfaces – roof, windows and openings, shutters and awnings – required repair. The interior decoration, along with fixed and mobile furniture, was recreated. Site construction also included a new public reception and exhibition facilities and parking at the nearby station. Part of the project included the restoration of the Le Corbusier Cabanon, the holiday cottages and l’Étoile de Mer.

Étoile de Mer by Thomas Rebutato

Thomas, Egildo Rebutato came from humble beginnings and worked in construction for much of his life. Born in San Remo, on Italy’s Ligurian coast, he never strayed far from his roots or the Mediterranean. Already familiar with Roquebrune Cap-Martin and its beaches, Rebutato jumped at the prospect of buying the 1000 m² property adjacent to Villa E-1027 in 1947. He envisioned a holiday development with six compact cottages, one of which was to be his.

The project timeline did not follow its prescribed course, and Rebutato converted his cabin into a small seaside eatery called Étoile de Mer – Chez Robert. Fate stepped when the restaurant’s first two guests, Jean Badovici and Le Corbusier, walked through the door. A friendship and business arrangement were born. Le Corbusier designed the remaining five (5) cabins in exchange for a small parcel of land where he built Le Cabanon. The rustic seaside cottages welcomed visitors from 1957 until 1987 when Rebutato’s wife Marguerite died.

Additional reading about Thomas, Egildo Rebutato .

Le Cabanon by Le Corbusier

Already familiar with Villa E-1027, Le Corbusier acquired a tiny slice of the adjacent property, owned by Thomas Rebutato, where he built his “Castle on the Riviera.” Diverging from the recognizable Le Corbusier modern white villas, Le Cabanon is a modest wooden cabin, perhaps a harkening back to his Swiss mountain roots. Completed in 1952, Le Corbusier used the Cabanon extensively until he died in 1965.

Conservation and the Future

2000: The entire site and all the structures belong to the Conservatoire du Littoral, France’s coastal protection agency.

2014: Cap Moderne Association is a charitable body established to restore and prepare the Cap Moderne site for visitors. Its current operations conclude in 2021 and will transition to the Association Eileen Gray Le Corbusier, responsible for the site’s cultural animation. Please consider donating to the organization .

2015: Restoration of the Cabanon and the workshop concluded.

2016: Eileen Gray’s Villa E-1027 seaside Villa and Le Corbusier’s Cabanon received French Historical Monuments designation and the property listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site

2017: Étoile de Mer and holiday cottages restored.

2021: Cap Moderne reopens to public visitors. The Centre des monuments nationaux now operates Villa E-1027 and the property’s balance, safeguarding the buildings’ integrity and controlling the number of visitors allowed on the site.

Practical information

Guided site tours will restart in May 2021. Buy your tickets online in advance of your visit. Touring the site requires the ability to manage stairs and some uneven surfaces.

Image credits: Photos by Manuel Bougot. All photos were provided by and published with the permission of the Cap Moderne Association.

French Riviera Books to Read

Please click on the book cover images or titles to order a copy. As an Amazon Associate, the site earns from qualifying purchases. Note: if you purchase a book via these links, we receive a small commission that does not impact your pay.

Written by Philippe Collas and Eric Villedary, Edith Wharton’s French Riviera is a richly illustrated history of the French Riviera and influences from British and later American residents.

Maureen Emerson and her husband spent in the South of France for 22 years. She became enthralled with the stories of those expatriates who lived on the Riviera in the 1920s and 1930s and how WWII affected their lives. Maureen has published two books on influential residents of the French Riviera during that era.

Her first book, Escape to Provence , published in 2008, is the true story of Lady Winifred Fortescue (author) and Elisabeth Parrish Star (Great War heroine). The book is available in Kindle format here or by clicking the book cover below to purchase.

Riviera Dreaming, Love and War on the Côte d’Azur , published in 2018, is the biography of American architect Barry Dierks. Dierks completed a vast body of residential design work on the Riviera for a long list of famous clients.

Mary S. Lovell was a Project Accountant before 1986, when she made a career shift and began writing on a full-time basis. The Riviera Set: Glitz, Glamour, and the Hidden World of High Society is her latest book. A biography about the rich, or famous who spent time on the French Riviera from the 1920s to 1960. Many of these people gathered at the art deco home of Maxine Elliot Château de l’Horizon near Cannes. The book is for anyone who likes history and learning about the lives (not rumours) of the era’s famous names.

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Affiliate information, how to make simple roasted chicken or guinea fowl, my warm winter menu from provence, related posts, hiking the nietzsche trail to eze village from the seaside, menton lemon festival, and a folklore group safeguarding mentonnais culture, highlights of carnaval in nice and a bit of history, looking for 18 holes golf courses in provence and cote d’azur, carolyne kauser-abbott.

With her camera and laptop close at hand, Carolyne has traded in her business suits for the world of freelance writing and blogging. Her first airplane ride at six months of age was her introduction to the exciting world of travel. While in Provence, Carolyne can be found hiking with friends, riding the hills around the Alpilles or tackling Mont Ventoux. Her attachment to the region resonates in Perfectly Provence this digital magazine that she launched in 2014. This website is an opportunity to explore the best of the Mediterranean lifestyle (food & wine, places to stay, expat stories, books on the region, travel tips, real estate tips and more), through our contributors' articles. Carolyne writes a food and travel blog Ginger and Nutmeg . Carolyne’s freelance articles can be found in Global Living Magazine, Avenue Magazine and City Palate (Published Travel Articles) .

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Cap Moderne - All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (2024) - Tripadvisor

• (0.04 km) MONTECARLO French Riviera
• (0.06 km) Le Golfe Bleu
• (0.16 km) COTE' D'AZUR Costa Azzurra Montecarlo Monaco Rpquebrune cap s Martin
• (0.30 km) Hôtel Le Roquebrune
• (0.31 km) Villa La Quinta
• (0.18 km) Le Cabanon plage du Buse
• (0.55 km) La Grotte & L'Olivier
• (0.63 km) Au Grand Inquisiteur
• (0.59 km) La Roquebrunoise Restaurant
• (0.56 km) Casarella Restaurant

FranceVisiting.com

The Best of France and nearby!

• Provence - Riviera
• Sightseeing

Dive into Roquebrune-Cap-Martin with its Cap Moderne and La Roquebrunoise, before reaching Beausoleil, just before Monaco!

Still in the heart of the Menton Riviera Merveilles, let’s discover the picturesque medieval village of Roquebrune Cap-Martin overlooking the sea, from a fantastic cape. Protected by the Mont-Agel (1145 meters), this wide locality shares a long history, from prehistoric times until Roman Empire , while crossing the Belle Époque and of course the Middle Ages with its Grimaldi castle. Built in 970, this fortress is open to the public and reveals many secrets, such as this superb panoramic walkway . Before leaving, make a wish in front of the millenary olive tree , undoubtedly one of the oldest olive trees in the World!

Starting your visit through old town of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin which has been attracting so many people for such a long time, proved by presence of the Vallonnet cave considered as the oldest inhabited cave , identified in Europe . In the mean time, the Roman period also left traces, with the vestiges  of Lumone , located at the crossroads of the Julian Way and the Aurelian Way , whose ruins of the mausoleum are the only remains of this Roman post house . For your information, its facade counts three arches, and its vaults contains traces of ancient frescoes .

Apart from this, the village offers visitors various bucolic promenades , through plots, fountains, fortified gates, passages under vaults, and of course beautiful beaches, such as La Plage du Buse , where the Swiss architect Le Corbusier spent his summers.

Among those curiosities, don’t miss the rue Pié , with its very close supporting arches , the impasse du Four where the common oven was located or even the Place du Capitaine Vincent offering one of the most amazing panoramic views over the Riviera bay. On top of that, you may pass, while being in the Chemin de Menton , in front of the millennial olive tree , famous as one of the oldest olive trees in Provence .

Then, don’t miss the castle , built in 970 by Conrad Ist , Count of Ventimiglia and is a real witness of medieval times, and eventually the original name of Rocabruna appeared in 1157. Before being owned in the 15th century by the Grimaldi , this fortress , used to include the castle and the village , in order to defend the population from Saracen attacks.

Indeed, the Genoese people and the counts of Provence were fighting over this fiefdom . From one floor to the other, visit the several rooms evoking the life of a stately home in the Middle Ages , from the ceremonial room until the guard room . Plus, a covered path reveals another superb view over the roofs of the village and of course the Mediterranean Sea .

Finally, sold as National Property in 1808 to five citizens of Roquebrune , this fortress was sold at the beginning of the 19th century to a wealthy British tourist, named Sir William Ingram , who donated the castle to the town in 1921. Since 1927, it has been listed as a historical monument . In the 14th century, the town was owned by the Grimaldi dynasty. It became French again during the French Revolution , became Monegasque again in 1814, then became a free city with Menton in 1848. The inhabitants decided by plebiscite to join the French territory again in 1860.

Château de Roquebrune-Cap-Martin , 06190 Roquebrune-Cap-Martin (France) / Open everyday from 10:30am until 6:30pm / Phone : 00 33 (0)4 93 35 07 22

We are also sure that you would spend some spiritual moments in the charming churches and chapels , spread in and around Roquebrune-Cap-Martin . For instance, the  Sainte-Marguerite Church was originally a chapel enlarged into a parish church in the 15th century, adorned with a classical facade, along two beautiful paintings realized by a local artist from the 17th century, aka Marc Antoine Otto , plus a copy of the famous Michelangelo ‘s “Last Judgment” masterpiece and a ceiling painted by Gastaldi .

Otherwise, the unmissable La Pausa Chapel , which was as well built in the 15th century, as a wish from the inhabitants during the plague epidemic in 1467. That’s why, every August 5th, the faithful citizens wear Roman costumes, in order to renew this vow with a procession retracing the passion of Jesus Christ .

Other annual rendez-vous deserve a specific attention, essentially in terms of local and traditional festivals , notably based on the “slug” procession on the night of Good Friday , where snail shells are transformed into candles , passing by the Broom Festival , in tribute of brooms , which reminds a legend , telling that brooms stopped the rocks running down the mountain after an earthquake , in the 7th century.

More recently, in the 19th century, the seafront of Cap Martin attracted countless celebrities from the Belle Epoque , from the Empress Eugenie , wife of Napoleon IIIrd , who occupied the sumptuous Villa Cyrnos but also Sissi , the illustrious Empress of Austria , who particularly enjoyed walking around the path overlooking the sea .

At last, an avant-garde current appeared in the 1920s took over this same Cap Martin , where Le Corbusier installed his summer shed , built on the rocks that he called a “machine for living” , and from where, he even drew his own tomb , still visible in the Roquebrune cemetery. This tiny cabanon (open on 3.66 m by 3.66 m) is situated close to the Villa E 1027 imagined by the Irish activist Eileen Gray , signing an emblematic landmark of the first architectural modernity. 

Another Cabanon  is located at the Plage du Buse , in Roquebrune Cap-Martin but this time for a delightful moment, by the water. Whether you opt for a lunch (3 time slots between 12:00pm, 1:45pm and 3:15pm) or a dinner (between 6pm to 8pm), discover the Italian influenced selection imagined by the Chef Silvio , through a range of Mediterranean dishes (such as tapas , pizzas and focaccias ), along grilled octopus tentacle, tuna tartare and tataki, plus delicious Italian ice-creams!

Cabanon de la Plage du Buse , Plage du buse, Chemin des Goëlands, 06190 Roquebrune Cap-Martin (France). More information on the official website and remember to book at 04.93.83.33.93!

Roquebrune-Cap-Martin tourist office, 218 Avenue Aristide Briand, 06190 Roquebrune-Cap-Martin (France) / Phone : 00 33 (0)4 93 35 62 87. More information on the official website .

Prepare your future visit to the Cap Moderne site with a temporary exhibition retracing Le Corbusier ‘s journey through this rare land in history. Located in a former municipal hall, behind the Roquebrune-Cap-Martin station, and the result of real painstaking work on the part of the team and the exhibition curator Elisabetta Gaspard , this collection of photographs mainly brings together photos of its official photographer, Lucien Hervé , as well as period videos, rich in testimonies, as well as sketches of the renovation site of Villa E-1027 . Managed now by the fundraiser Michael Lickermann who chairs the Cap Moderne Association with the support of endowment funds .

Equipped with the 5 points of the modern villa , which are the roof terrace , construction on stilts , facade and free plan , windows in bands.

Located over a natural source , not far from the divinely blue Plage du Buse , on land bordered by pine forests and black rock , a fabulous avant-garde villa was built, called E-1027 , and designed by Eileen Gray .

This Irish architect and furniture designer, also pioneer of the Modern Movement in architecture , associated with her lover Jean Badovici , to build, from 1926 to 1929, this immaculate white house , spanning two levels (called ground floor) and 120m2 of surface, excluding the solarium located on the roof terrace . This property and its idyllic setting, faced an incredible history since after having been abandoned after the departure of Eileen Gray and the death of Jean Badovici , this jewel of modern architecture was reborn from its ashes, mainly thanks to the acquisition of this site by the Conservatoire du Littoral .

In addition, this site is also managed by the Center of National Museums , like the Trophy of Augustus , Villa Kerylos and the Monastery of Saorge .

Indeed, it seemed essential to preserve as much the exterior aspect of this charming concept house , as the richness of its interior which included multiple modern technologies for the time. For example, with the help of a sworn guide to this cultural place called Cap Moderne , discover this set of removable and modular furniture , along with inventive lighting, mostly designed by Eileen Gray , such as this satellite mirror , designed expressly for the home. Here and there, you will be able to admire during this visit, sublime tiles of Salernes , not far from blackout panes, composed of diamond point or chiseled glass.

An anthology of concrete , mixed with more noble textures such as sycamore and beech wood, but also beds covered with coated canvas , so typical of the 60s.

Backed by this contemporary interior for the time, partially reconstructed by the Conservatoire du Littoral , the Association du Cap Moderne and their many supporters, you can admire beautiful ornaments , including 5 murals made in 1939 by the famous Swiss architect Le Corbusier , of which only 4 frescoes remain visible.

Indeed, the architect Le Corbusier was a regular here in 1938 and 1939, then returned to the Cap Moderne from 1949 to 1965. He indeed took pleasure in having a good time at the local tavern , which was called the Etoile de Mer , after its opening in the 1940s and which closed in 1984.

Adjoining this guinguette , a wooden camping unit, with multicolored and Japanese tones, dating from 1957, preceding the unmissable Cabanon du Corbusier .

Therefore, located in this small space with a tiny studio of ​​16m2, designed with the help of his favorite engineer Guy Rottier and his favorite Corsican carpenter Charles Barberis , made from laricio pine fixed on resistant planks of larch wood , but also chestnut, that this visionary artist imagined his future achievements, including his first thoughts on the Indian city of Chandigarh , next to his favorite objects, nicknamed “poetic reaction” . Communicating with Etoile de Mer , it was an ideal location to socialize during warm dinners facing the sea and of course to indulge in your morning bathing ritual. It was also during one of them that he was immortalized by the paparazzo photographer Henry Pessar , a week before unfortunately passing away in the waves.

In the mean time, following the festive tradition of the Étoile de Mer , many events are organized in the heart of the Villa E-1027 , gently occurring under the gentle lapping of the waves , such as lately, the Tracuola ensemble which guided us through a musical journey into the heart of a real Mediterranean cultural heritage .

Again in the heart of the old village of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin stands the restaurant called La Roquebrunoise , in honor of the related fountain ?

This culinary establishment offers a unique setting on the Riviera , day and night, nestled in an old 19th century building, typical of the Menton hinterland. Initially, this place served as a lemons sorting center, at the same time as having been the former municipal theater as well as the apartments of the ancient mayor .

Transformed into the Les Lucioles restaurant after the war, the place was renamed La Roquebrunoise , when it was acquired by Mr Cabrol in the late 90s.

In addition, the latter boosted a more gastronomic dimension, and a refreshment of the various dining rooms, including the shaded terrace which offers an absolutely exceptional panorama on the medieval castle and the Mediterranean Sea .

Otherwise, regional fishes couldn’t be missed, since are proposed sea bream and sea bass , unless you prefer various shells (like scallops , clams ) cooked here in tagliatelli . 

Located at the entrance to the Principality of Monaco , the city of Beausoleil may be considered as a recent locality , since it has only existed since 1904 and was meant in fact to attract a rich clientele of tourists, mainly coming from Northern European countries and Russia , who came to benefit from the winter sun.

Seeing that Monaco ‘s point of attraction was developing at high speed, the French neighbors of Beausoleil , under the leadership of their mayor Camille Blanc , decided to detach bare land from La Turbie and make it into various places of residence . rather posh.

In a very hilly environment, the problem of moving, essentially through sloped streets, was already being felt and was partly overcome by the presence of cogwheel or electric trains (late 19th until 1932) or more classic carriages .

Walking through the relatively steep streets lined with sunny engraved cobblestones , discover the Foyer du Poilu . This veterans ‘ home, inaugurated in 1928 by Marshal Foch . A real military museum, not far from the Carrier district, the oldest in Beausoleil , once occupied by Italian workers who had made huts out of odds and ends. This is why this area was as well nicknamed the Tonquin , in reference to the shanty towns of Indochina , shortly before the surrounding area was repaired, under the decision of the mayor at the time.

A little bit further, do not miss the presence of a solidarity garden , located on one of the rare unbuilt plots of the town, which produces a significant annual amount of fruit and vegetables , intended for the most disadvantaged inhabitants.

If you climb a few more steps, you will be able to reach one of the highest and chicest points of Beausoleil , namely the Riviera Palace . Built during 5 years by the Orient Express company, which already operated 7 palaces and which wanted to deploy the best of luxury of the time here, for its inauguration in 1903. Directed under the leadership of the architect Georges Chedanne , which was also at the origin known for his construction of the Parisian grocery store of Les Galeries Lafayette , there are also certain similarities in terms of architectural style.

Mainly intended for visitor who mainly flocked there from October to April, they depended on huge sums of money and in fact brought their own staff, in addition to the 1000 employees who were busy in the hotel , by that time.

This huge amount was even sometimes far from being sufficient, since it was nearly a permanent party place and which gave the opportunity to the other tourists  to find more calm, while eventually vacationing in the Hotel de Paris and L’Hermitage .

Shut down during the First World War in 1914, transformed into a Military Hospital and victim of the Bolshevik Revolution , this gem ceased its activity definitively in 1932.

Bought by the Lamaro company, the building increased from a capacity of 50 suites to 100 apartments , since most of them were transformed into duplexes , thanks to their ceilings which rose to nearly 7 meters high. Although the majority of the rooms were adorned with magnificent paintings and other decorative pieces, this building was not listed until 1989, with the obvious aim of preserving these remaining treasures .

When you venture inside this incredible building frozen in time, you will still find some vestiges of this illustrious hotel , including the concierge ‘s lodge, the lobby, the fur cloakroom and of course these period elevators . In addition, there was also a bridge room, a restaurant , a barber shop, a florist and even a tobacconist .

In addition, there is the unmissable glass greenhouse of 900m2, even including a peak ceiling height of 22 meters, with an arrangement designed by Henri Martinet , composed mainly of exotic plants (of which some palm trees still exist). In the center of which sits a fountain decorated with macaroons and fed by a rainwater harvesting function. For your information, the hotel employees were housed facing this interior garden, while the rich clients were more privileged hosted, facing the sea.

Obviously, the conditions aboard this greenhouse were complicated since it was very hot in the summer and relatively freezing in the winter, although steam boilers were in operation.

By the way, many famous people have been fortunate enough to stay at this Palace , such as choreographer Serge Dagilev and his principal dancer Vaslav , the Russian Prince Nicholas 2nd , the King of the Belgians Leopold 2nd , the Shah of Iran , the writer Colette who mentioned her experience there in his work “L’Ingénue Libertine” , another writer Guillaume Apollinaire often visited his mother there, who had unfortunately squandered most of her fortune in gambling activities. On the other hand, let’s not forget the visit of the composers Stravinsky and Maurice Ravel .

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Villa E-1027

A true icon of modernist architecture, Villa E-1027, Eileen Gray’s first architectural creation, testifies to the thought and attention that she put into every detail of the design. It is tantamount to a manifesto both for its architecture and for the fixed and mobile furniture, lamps and decorations that are inseparable from it. Gray (1878-1976) spent three whole years between 1926 and 1929, designing the furniture and working with her partner Jean Badovici (1893-1956) on the plans. The name of this holiday home was derived from the interlinking of their initials: E for Eileen, 10 for the J of Jean, 2 for the B of Badovici, 7 for the G of Gray, the name of the villa thus interweaves their initials.

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The Villa is small but for Eileen Gray everyone ‘must be able to remain free and independent’ and store everything in a minimum amount of space. For this purpose, she designed elegant, functional and highly ingenious furniture, paying the utmost attention to every detail. On view are the ‘Transat’ deckchairs, inspired by those found on cruise ships, the ‘Bibendum’ chair, black leather bench seat with a chrome steel tube frame, floating tables, the ‘Marine d’abord’ rug in the guest room and the cleverly designed chrome circular bedside table ‘Table E-1027’ the height of which is adjustable using a metal chain.

Insider’s Guide

Often ill treated by its successive owners, one of whom was murdered on the spot, the villa, emptied of its furniture, was in a severely degraded condition when it was bought and restored by the Conservatoire du littoral in 1999. Now an outstanding cultural and natural site know as Cap Moderne and consisting of Eileen Gray’s Villa E-1027, Le Corbusier’s Cabanon and Unité de camping, and the bar-restaurant Etoile de Mer, all of them mythical architectural icons in surroundings of outstanding natural beauty. Like the villa, the gardens and land is a listed historic monument. And if you have an interest in gardens, also visit the close by masterpiece by Ferdinand Bac at Les Colombières , in Menton (only 4 km).

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An Oyster-Filled Week on France’s Arcachon Bay

Seaside bungalows, secret sandbanks, and beach naps..

Everyone knows that person who spends weeks sniffing around travel blogs, going deep into Tripadvisor rabbit holes, collecting Google docs from friends of friends, and creating  A Beautiful Mind –style spreadsheets to come up with the best  vacations  and itineraries possible. In this recurring series, we find those people who’ve done all the work for you and have them walk us through a particularly wonderful, especially well-thought-out vacation they took that you can actually steal.

Having just moved from New York City to Paris last spring, I was eager to spend the summer hopping around the French seaside . High prices and rowdy crowds deterred me from the more obvious destinations in the French Riviera, so instead, I went west, swapping the Med for the Atlantic, palm trees for pine, and Riviera glitz for rustic charms that reminded me of my childhood.

I grew up in a coastal fishing town in Massachusetts , so Cap Ferret, a small village in the southernmost point of Lège-Cap-Ferret, a peninsula that splits the Arcachon Bay and the Atlantic Ocean in the southwest of France, felt instantly familiar.

French friends had described it to me as a low-key summer destination for chic French families and friends. It’s host to both swimming and surfing beaches, as well as tons of al fresco seafood restaurants and oyster-tasting shacks. I was able to convince some friends to join me in late July as we traversed the Bay of Arcachon for a week of oyster lunches, blissed-out beach days, and majestic boat trips — topping it off with an impromptu weekend in Bordeaux.

9 a.m.: Travel from Paris to Cap Ferret 

From Paris, my friend Anny and I took a train to Arcachon, which required a transfer in Bordeaux, making it a three-and-a-half-hour journey by train. From the train, we walked ten minutes over to the Thiers Pier ( Place Thiers, 33120 Arcachon ) on Arcachon Beach and boarded a boat shuttle to Cap Ferret. It was a scenic 30-minute ride to cross the bay with some pretty epic views of the Dune du Pilat. Pulling up to the small port of Cap Ferret, we noticed the rows of oyster beds marked with sticks and got excited to feast on oysters all week!

1 p.m.: Settle into a surfside bungalow

Once we arrived at the port, we walked 20 minutes through the quaint sandy roads flanked by rustic ranch homes to Hotel des Dunes ( 119 Avenue de Bordeaux ), our home for the next two nights. Hotel des Dunes is the oldest hotel on the peninsula, having originally opened in 1969, and thus has become somewhat of an institution.

In 2022, French-born Karine Hecquet and her husband Jean-Philippe, who have spent summers in Cap Ferret, bought the property and reopened it last summer as a modern surf lodge inspired by the motels you’ll find along the California coast. This wasn’t random, I learned, as the hotel’s new owners spent their summers in Cap Ferret and had also visited Hawaii, surfing their way through Waimea Bay, Ho’okipa, and Waikiki, before settling for a few years in New York, where they fell in love with Montauk. Throughout those years, they also spent time traveling to California surfing the best breaks in Malibu, Monterey, and San Diego, often staying in fuss-free seaside motels that would eventually become the source of inspiration when they returned to France in 2015 and rediscovered the joys of Cap Ferret.

So when the couple bought Hotel des Dunes, they had high hopes of bringing back the laid-back surf spirit ingrained in the hotel’s history. Along with the nostalgic feel of California surf motels, the property seamlessly emulates the traditional architecture around the basin, like the cabins on stilts typical of the Bassin d’Arcachon, which are used to watch over the oyster fields. If Hotel des Dunes isn’t available, as there are only 13 rooms, there are tons of chic affordable Airbnb options for families and groups of friends. Here are three I love:

2 p.m.: Nap on the beach

After we settled in, we were eager to get to the beach. The beach directly across the street from the hotel, Plage des Dunes, is on the Atlantic side, so it’s ideal for wind sports, like surfing and kite surfing. One of the things that makes Cap Ferret so unique is its geographical positioning, where you can access the calmer waters on the bay side of the peninsula and the wilder waters on the Atlantic side. Once we climbed through heaps of white sandy dunes flanked by tall grass, we descended to a beach that looked like it went on for miles. Since the water was a bit choppy on this side and we didn’t have the energy for water sports after our trip, we spent the afternoon reading and napping on the soft, pillowy sand. The weather was perfect, not too hot even during the dog days of summer; it was warm and dry with a perfect breeze.

5 p.m.: Visit your first oyster tasting on the basin

From the beach, we walked down to the oyster village that lines the basin and had a late lunch/early dinner at one of the most famous oyster spots, La Cabane d’Hortense ( Rue des Tamaris ), the casual sibling to the more formal restaurant Chez Hortense, which we visited the following day. At all of these “dégustation” shacks, as they’re called, they serve oysters, shrimp, snails, and pâtés. We ordered everything on the menu and topped it all off with a glass of white wine. After the meal, we walked through the fisherman village toward the main town lined with shops and restaurants and popped into a few boutiques. Our favorite was Belle Amie ( 10 Bd de la Plage ), which carried a well-curated assortment of designer brands, like The Row and Loewe, and smaller, more affordable French brands, like L/Uniform for great bags. Then we finally made our way back to the hotel to meet our friends who had just arrived from Capri.

10 a.m.: Enjoy a leisurely morning at the hotel

We took our time this morning and indulged in a perfect breakfast, complete with fresh breads and cakes, the best charcuterie in the southwest, fresh fruit from Cocotte, a local legend at the Ferret farmers’ market, and granola and honey from the basin. After breakfast, we spread out across the property on the outdoor deck chairs and hammocks to catch up on some work before lunch at the iconic Restaurant Chez Hortense ( 26 Av. Du Sémaphore ).

Noon: Have a scene-y lunch at Chez Hortense

Two of us walked to lunch, which took 30 minutes as we cut across some scenic little beaches on the bay side, while the other two biked over using the bikes provided by the hotel, taking them roughly ten minutes. It felt like anyone who’s anyone on Cap Ferret was having lunch at Chez Hortense, so be sure to reserve at least a month in advance if you can. It’s set on a shaded outdoor terrace covered in vines and greenery with views overlooking the bay. It’s a nice crowd because it’s a mix of locals, friends, and families, yet it’s not rowdy, just really warm and fun. It was already super busy when we arrived for our 12:30 reservation and we ordered a pretty substantial amount. Oysters, the fish of the day, shrimp, and mussels and fries, paired with a couple of bottles of white wine. We polished it off with a round of dessert: some strawberries and cream and homemade ice cream.

3 p.m.: Hit the beach before the rain

After lunch, we made our way around the back of the restaurant and walked left toward the quiet beaches on the bay that we had discovered on the walk over to lunch (these beaches don’t have names, but you can’t miss them). We found a spot with a direct view of the Dune du Pilat and hung out at the beach before the rain came. As luck would have it, the rain lasted as long as it took us to run and bike home, and when we arrived, the sun was out on our little deck at Hotel des Dunes. We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing on the hammocks and taking in the final hours of sun before dinner.

8 p.m.: Enjoy a change of palate for dinner

The super-friendly staff at the hotel had booked us a reservation at Mayzou ( 32 Av. Nord du Phare ), a ten-minute walk from the hotel. Mayzou serves international cuisine and has a menu that changes daily depending on the fishing or harvest of their local suppliers. While we were loving our oyster-filled week, it was nice to try some new flavors. We ordered almost everything on the menu that day, which included pulled lamb tacos, tuna tataki, burrata and bottarga, tomato salad and anchovies, zucchini fritters, Japanese-style oysters, hong shao eggplant, Persian rice ,and popcorn chicken with spicy mayo. Everything had so much flavor and really hit the spot.

9 a.m.: Wake up early for a morning market run

I’m an early bird so after my early morning breakfast at the hotel, I took a stroll over to the Cap Ferret market ( Av. Du Monument Saliens ) as they were just setting up. The market sells crafts from woven basket bags and lamps to linen clothing by local vendors, as well as fresh fish and local wine. One of my friends biked over to meet me when they got up and we perused the market, restocking on some good linen finds before heading back to the hotel for our last day here.

11:30 a.m.: Spend a final beach day on the basin

When I got back to the hotel, my friends had just finished eating breakfast and we walked over to Plage du banc du Mimbeau ( Av. de la Conche ) on the bay side since it was right by our lunch reservation. It was an especially warm day, so we spent the afternoon in the water, swimming to the sandbar that forms when the tide is high.

1:30 p.m.: Take in another oyster lunch before checking out

When it was time for lunch, we walked a few steps to Chai Bertrand ( 48 Quartier des Pecheurs ) for yet another tasting of oysters, shrimp, snails, and white wine. After lunch, we walked back to the hotel and packed up, then Karine offered to drive us to the port in the hotel jeep.

4 p.m.: Check in to a new hotel in Arcachon 

We boarded the boat shuttle to Arcachon and from there called an Uber to Villa du Pyla ( 4 Av. du Figuier ), located in Pyla-Sur-Mer, a small seaside town just outside of Arcachon that sits between Arcachon and the Dune du Pilat. Villa du Pyla is a cozy guesthouse-style hotel on the beach, featuring 18 suites, each with kitchenettes and balconies or private patios. We relaxed on the beach for a few more hours of sun, then did some work from our balconies before dinner.

8 p.m.: Bask in a sunset dinner overlooking Dune du Pilat

We had the concierge call us a cab to take us to our dinner reservation at Hotel Restaurant La Co(o)rniche ( 46 Av. Louis Gaume ), the most famous hotel in the area, known for its insane views of Dune du Pilat, which sits just 4.5 kilometers away from the property. We grabbed drinks at the bar while waiting for our table and took tons of photos of the sunset overlooking the dunes and the bay before sitting down to dinner. We ordered a round of oysters and snails, followed by fresh fish of the day, which was a sea bass.

10 a.m.–1 p.m.: Begin our boat day around Arcachon Bay 

In the morning, a breakfast basket with a fresh baguette and other baked goods and fruit and yogurt was delivered to our door. We ate on the balcony overlooking the beach and got ready for our boat day on Arcachon Bay. We took a cab to the meeting point in the harbor at Rue de Marins and met up with the crew of Des Hommes et Des Mers . We booked a full six-hour day to really take advantage and see everything we wanted to (but you can also book three- or four-hour days). Des Hommes et Des Mers has the option of two boats, a smaller classic boat, called L’Empreinte (fits up to 12 people), built on the basin for the basin, which allows you to get as close as possible to the villages and the most inaccessible places, and a larger boat, L’Embrun (fits up to 15 people), which is a catamaran for larger groups. We started our journey on the basin checking out the famous stilt houses, “Les Cabanes Tchanquées,” an emblem of the basin located on L’ile aux Oiseaux, which were originally built for monitoring oyster parks. We then made our way closer to the Lège-Cap-Ferret peninsula and cruised along the shores of the various little fishing villages until reaching one of the most famous: L’Herbe.

2 p.m.: Visit L’Herbe for lunch, then go for a swim

We descended onto the beach of L’Herbe and walked up through the village, passing a few dégustation shacks until stopping for lunch at one called Kykouyou ( Av. de L’Herbe ). After lunch, we made our way through the charming, narrow backstreets of L’Herbe, exploring the village and its colorful fishing homes. We made our way back onto the boat and decided it was time to swim. We anchored at a beach that sits between Plage de la Vigne and La Plage des Américains for an hour of swimming before jumping back on and heading to the point where the bay meets the Atlantic Ocean, called “La Passe,” which is very dangerous to cross, depending on the swell and wind conditions, but we wanted to feel the strength of the current, so we jumped into the water and swam a bit against the wild and majestic backdrop of the dune. Wasn’t an easy swim, so only recommended for strong swimmers!

5 p.m.: Climb the Dune du Pilat and visit a secret sandbank

We then cruised over to the dune and actually managed to climb up partway. It was a pretty insane workout, and the views were wild. When we got back on the boat, our captain, Patrick, wanted to show us one more spot: a famous sandbank that sits in front of the Dune du Pilat that only appears for a few hours in the evening, called “Le Banc d’Arguin.” We were the first to arrive just as it was beginning to poke out from the water, and it was magical. We ran around and took in the 360-degree views of the bay just as the sun was beginning to set. Finally, because of the tides, Patrick was able to drop us right on the beach we were staying on, so we rolled onto the beach and straight into our hotel rooms.

8 p.m.: Enjoy a steak dinner

After so much seafood, we were craving classic bistro food, so we went to dinner at Café Ha(a)itza ( 312 Bd de l’Océan ), a brasserie at Hotel Ha(a)itza (our hotel helped us make the reservation the night before). It’s the same owners as La Co(o)rniche, but feels a bit more casual. We were ready for a change of pace from seafood, so we ordered a round of steaks and fries.

2 p.m.: Make an impromptu pit stop in Bordeaux

Two of our friends left for Ibiza that morning and my friend Anny and I got a cab to the Arcachon train station to travel back to Paris. We were on a direct train back to Paris, but when a train delay had us held up for 15 minutes in Bordeaux, we spontaneously decided to get off and finish out the weekend there! It was already the evening at this point, so we sat at the train-station café while we sorted out a place to stay.

5 p.m.: Check in to a charming hotel, then eat dinner at a southwest institution

We booked a last-minute stay at Maison La Course ( 69 Rue de la Course ), a former family home set within a 19th-century mansion around the corner from the hip Chartrons neighborhood. It has just five rooms, so we lucked out as they had a cancellation. The intimate nature of the home gives it a guesthouse feel with a few cozy communal spaces, like the lounge with a fireplace, kitchen, and tasting room (should you wish to book a tasting). There’s also a spa that we didn’t get around to checking out.

Once we settled in, we aimlessly walked around the city, making our way to the iconic La Tupina ( 6 Rue Porte de la Monnaie ) for dinner, known for its upscale southwestern comfort food. The crowd was a bit too touristy for our taste, but the food was solid and the service was super friendly. We ordered the macaronade de cèpes et foie gras (its signature rigatoni with crème fraîche, mushrooms, bacon, and foie gras sauce) and Chateaubriand beef filet with bone marrow — we really went for it … we were hungry! We loved the local red wine our waiter suggested, from Chateau de Parenchere .

11 a.m.: Walk around the Chartrons neighborhood

As it was Sunday, most things were closed (whoops!), but we still enjoyed strolling around the Chartrons neighborhood (I knew some places already as I had visited Bordeaux earlier in the summer with friends and expert tour guide Yolanda Edwards , who has a house in the Medoc). We picked up sandwiches at La P’tite Boulangerie Notre Dame ( 62 Rue Notre Dame ) for our stroll around the neighborhood before heading back to the hotel to catch up on some work.

6 p.m.: Have a final dinner in Bordeaux

In the evening, we wanted to go for a glass of wine and some salted anchovies at Motto Bar ( 33 Rue Piliers de Tutelle ), a hi-fi music bar, but we realized it was closed on Sundays, so we’ll save that for next time! Just next door, there was a place that looked great called Soif ( 35 Rue du Cancera ), which serves a seasonal menu of small plates, so we popped in there for dinner. We ordered the mussels, a really interesting tomato salad with crunch, and the beef dish they were serving that day. We paired the meal with some really good natural wines from the region; I loved my Merlot from Chateau Brandeau. We finished the meal with some local cheese, a brioche perdu, which is basically a fancy French toast, and, of course, some cognac! It was a perfect last meal before our two-hour train back to Paris in the morning.

Monica’s Arcachon Bay packing list

I love Attersee for elevated basics. The oversize shirt is a chic, lightweight piece for a coastal getaway. I wore it open to the beach and buttoned up at night.

I never travel without my Paravel Weekender bag, but it was especially clutch on this trip. It has smart straps that slip over the trolley of your carry-on suitcase and a zipper for seamless lugging through unpaved roads and cobbled streets. Nothing spilling out or falling over, and it fits way more than it appears.

Tombolo’s One-in-a-Billion for Billion Oyster Project shirt feels like a no-brainer here if you really want to get into the spirit of the trip — I did! It’s silly and fun, and 15 percent of proceeds from the capsule are donated to the Billion Oyster Project to help improve New York’s harbors.

I love Ciao Lucia’s Zacchi pant (in white or the more festive shell print). I like to pack clothes that can work double duty, and these do just that. They’re lightweight and easy to transition from the beach to dinner.

Of course, I don’t travel without SPF, but something less obvious that I don’t travel without is a tube of Biafine , a French pharmacy product that has proven extremely useful to treat sunburns (or sun rashes) for when you miss a spot with the SPF!

The Strategist is designed to surface the most useful, expert recommendations for things to buy across the vast e-commerce landscape. Some of our latest conquests include the best acne treatments , rolling luggage , pillows for side sleepers , natural anxiety remedies , and bath towels . We update links when possible, but note that deals can expire and all prices are subject to change.

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Senate Passes 2024-25 Budget Addressing Critical Priorities for New Yorkers & Enacting Key Majority Proposals

April 20, 2024

• 2024-2025 Budget

File New York State Senate Majority Passes SFY 2024-25 Budget Addressing Critical Priorities for New Yorkers & Enacting Key Senate Ma

(Albany, NY) — The New York State Senate is proud to announce the successful passage and enactment of the New York State budget, a testament to the dedication and tireless efforts of the Senate Majority in delivering meaningful relief and progress for the people of New York. This comprehensive budget reflects the Senate Majority’s commitment to addressing the pressing needs of working individuals and families, safeguarding public education, and implementing a holistic approach to housing reform and affordability.

Senate Majority Leader Andrea Stewart-Cousins said, “The enactment of this budget represents a significant step forward in advancing the Senate Majority’s vision for a fairer and more prosperous New York. By prioritizing the needs of working families and investing in critical areas such as affordability, education, housing, environment and healthcare, the Senate Majority remains steadfast in its commitment to delivering tangible results and building a brighter future for all New Yorkers. I thank Governor Hochul, Speaker Heastie and all of my colleagues for their dedication and collaboration in delivering this vital budget. I am confident that this budget will make a meaningful difference in the lives of New Yorkers across the state.”

Senate Majority Deputy Leader Mike Gianaris said, “The State Senate worked hard to build a budget that serves our communities and delivers tangible benefits for New Yorkers. I am proud we achieved important policy priorities, including my proposals to provide additional funding for school security to combat increasing hate crimes, and improved reliability on public transit and express bus routes. The restoration of education aid was also a victory for students throughout the state. Though this budget reflects progress in tackling the decades-long housing crisis, that work remains unfinished and more remains to be done to further protect tenants and find comprehensive solutions to our affordability crisis.”

Finance Committee Chair Senator Liz Krueger said, “As is always the case, we did not get everything we wanted in this final budget, but it represents progress for the people of New York across many important areas. We have defended schools across the state against drastic cuts while laying the groundwork for long-term solutions on school funding and mayoral control; we have taken steps toward protecting all tenants in the state and supporting new affordable housing development; we have eased the tax burden and the child care burden for working families; we have given localities new tools to stop illegal cannabis shops; and we have successfully restored clean water and environmental funding. I thank Leader Stewart-Cousins and my colleagues for their dedication and collaboration, and I particularly thank all our staff for their tireless work throughout this extended budget process.”

Carrying on the proud legacy of being the “education conference,” the Senate Democratic Majority ensured that no cuts would be made to school funding, and that kids across the state would still receive the investments that they both need and deserve. Thanks to the Democratic Conference’s advocacy, this year’s budget will also include transformative investments in higher education to make continued learning more accessible These wins include: 

School Funding

• Rejecting the Executive’s proposal to eliminate Hold Harmless and also increasing Foundation Aid for the poorest 63 districts in the State. This is a Foundation Aid increase of $934 million, or 3.9 percent, over the current school year, which is an increase of $430 million, or 1.8 percent, over the Executive’s Foundation Aid proposal.
• A Comprehensive Study by The Rockefeller Institute and NYS Department of Education to develop a modernized school funding formula.
• $180 million to continue our historic commitment to providing universal school meals for thousands of New York children.
• Extending Mayoral Control for two years. 
• An additional $100 million for Universal Pre-K to allow school districts throughout the state to serve at least 90% of eligible four year olds.
• A study to work towards a pathway for expanded afterschool across New York State.

Higher Education

• The Enacted Budget increases SUNY Operating Aid by $60 million, Capital by $60 million and Community College Support by $6 million over the Executive’s proposal. 
• Increases CUNY Operating Aid by $40 million, Capital by $40 million and Community College Support by $4 million over the Executive’s proposal.
• The Senate also provided significant support for the SUNY Hospitals, providing operating assistance to cover their debt service and $150 million in capital. 
• Increasing the household income limit for dependent students from $80,000 to $125,000
• Increase the married, no children income ceiling from $40,000 to $60,000 (Net Taxable Income) 
• Increasing the max income limit from $10,000 to $30,000

Amidst the ongoing housing crisis in New York, the Senate Democratic Conference put forward and secured a transformative housing deal that targets both the affordability and supply of the current market through meaningful tenant and homeowner protections, along with real incentives to replenish the stock. This historic deal includes: 

Hard fought Senate Majority proposals in final package:

• Housing Opportunities for the Future - a new $150 million program to build affordable homes and rentals across New York State. 
• A new opt-in construction or commercial conversion tax exemption for affordable housing outside the City of New York.
• Authorization for municipalities to adopt a local tax exemption to make it easier for individuals to build accessory dwelling units.

Historic Tenant and Homeowner Protections: 

• A rent increase is presumptively unreasonable if it is greater than the annual change in CPI plus 5%, or 10%, whichever is lower. 
• A lease can only be terminated for one of the good causes lined out within the bill. 
• Takes effect immediately in New York City, while localities in the rest of the state may opt in and provides for flexibility in defining the small landlord and high-rent exemptions. 
• Sunsets in ten years. 
• The SFY 2024-25 Enacted Budget also establishes the crime of Deed Theft, to protect homeowners from having someone steal the title to their home through fraudulent or deceptive practices, often which are targeted towards elderly homeowners. This provision would allow for the prosecution of individuals who intentionally alter, falsify, forge, or misrepresent property documents unlawfully transfer ownership rights of real property.
• $140 million in capital funding for NYCHA, 
• $80 million to support Mitchell-Lamas and $75 million to support public housing authorities outside of New York City.
• $40 million in the Homeowner Protection Program (HOPP)
• A total of $10 million in Eviction Protection Funding in New York City and $40 million for outside New York City 

Needed New York City Specific Housing Advances:

• The Enacted Budget includes an extension of the 421a construction completion deadline until 2031 to ensure that vested projects that had started construction prior to the expiration of 421a are able to continue. 
• It also implements 485x, a new version of 421a, to build new multifamily buildings across New York City with stronger labor and wage standards and requires levels of affordability.  It also lifts the Floor Area Ratio (FAR) cap to allow for higher density buildings.
• This budget includes a pilot program to legalize basement and cellar apartments within identified geographic locations in the City of New York and to ensure those apartments are brought up to code to allow individuals to live in them safely. 
• And, it builds on previous conference wins to include a tax incentive program for Commercial Conversions with higher affordability requirements. 

In this year’s state budget, the Senate Democratic Conference continued its efforts to ensure New York remains affordable and opportunity-filled for working and middle class families to put down roots. This year, those measures included:

• A historic $350 million for a new supplemental tax credit for families eligible for the Empire State Child Tax Credit to provide direct support to working families, and continues to implement the lowest Middle-Class Tax rate in over 70 years, saving average New Yorkers millions of dollars. 
• Allowing children ages 0-6 to remain continuously enrolled in Medicaid or Child Health Plus without having to redetermine eligibility, to ensure children have stable and affordable health insurance for their first years. 
• Advances $50 million for customers enrolled in the NYSERDA EmPower+ Program to electrify their homes, providing subsidies to guarantee customers don’t spend more than 6% of their income on an electric bill.   
• Thanks to the Senate’s efforts, this budget will also include long overdue and critical Tier 6 reform by changing the final average salary calculation window for Tier 6 members from five to three years to help incentivize workforce retention. 
• The successful Senate inclusion of a 2.84% COLA for Human Services includes a 1.7% target salary increase for specific support, direct care, clinical, and non-executive administrative staff. This represents a notable increase over the Executive’s 1.5% COLA proposal.
• $50 million in transformative new funding for Anti-Poverty Efforts in Rochester, Syracuse and Buffalo. 

Access to Affordable Child Care: 

• The Enacted Budget includes $1.78 billion for the New York State Child Care Block Grant, an increase of $754.4 million, which will provide subsidies for 119,000 eligible children. 
• It further includes $280 million in underutilized federal pandemic funds to continue the Workforce Retention Grant program and provide another round of bonus payments to employees at 14,000 programs statewide. 
• The Enacted Budget will also continue $6.25 million for the Child Care Facilitated Enrollment program in New York City and $5.6 million to the rest of the state. This program is designed to help qualifying working parents get access to child care in New York City.  

In ongoing efforts to bolster New York’s economy from the ground up, New York State Democrats are continuing to invest in small businesses and development at all levels of the economy. This year’s state budget includes:

• Empire AI, a pioneering consortium to develop and inaugurate a cutting-edge artificial intelligence computing center in Buffalo, with statewide partners to ensure New York’s leadership in the burgeoning AI space. 
• It will create a personal income and corporate franchise tax credit for certain qualifying, independently owned print media or broadcasting entities, including those that have experienced workforce or circulation decline in the last five years.  
• It places a total cap on the credit per entity of $300,000, and an annual cap of $30 million. It sets aside $4 million to provide a $5,000 credit for the hiring of new employees, and $26 million set aside for the retention of current staff. Half of the funds will be set aside specifically for those with 100 or fewer employees.
• This budget adds $365,000 over the Executive proposal in additional funding for the Minority and Women-Owned Business Development lending program, for a total of $1 million.
• It also increases the grant amounts for Entrepreneurial Assistance Centers from $175,000 to $250,000 to support small businesses and MWBEs across the state and help establish EACs in unserved areas. 
• This budget successfully enacts the Retail Security Tax Credit, which helps small businesses make the investments needed to keep employees safe.
• The Senate Majority successfully added its investment of $1 million for beginning farmers, along with $1 million for socially and economically disadvantaged farmers.
• Language to lower the medical cannabis tax rate from 7% to 3.15%  and direct revenue to counties in order to keep them whole. 
• $100,000 for the Cannabis Farmers Alliance, and $50,000 for the Cannabis Association of New York.
• Increased enforcement powers for the Office of Cannabis Management (OCM) to enable cities and counties to crack down on illegal cannabis shops.

In a continued effort to support the wellbeing of all New Yorker’s at every stage of life, the Senate Majority fought to bolster health care resources and continue investing in mental health services for everyone throughout the state. The SFY 2024-25 budget includes:

• $7.5 billion invested in New York’s health care system through modifications to the state's 1115 Medicaid Waiver to be used for promoting health equity, diminishing health disparities, and enhancing access to primary and behavioral health care.
• $800 million in support for distressed and safety-net hospitals.
• Continuing to increase the minimum wage for home care workers.
• Establishing minimum collection policies for medical debt, increasing eligibility for hospital financial assistance, a uniform financial assistance application for all hospitals, prohibiting hospitals from using immigration status as a criterion for financial assistance eligibility, requiring reporting on users of financial assistance, and clarifying that the notice requirements on medical credit cards apply to hospitals as well as other health care providers. 
• Eliminating cost-sharing for insulin in commercial insurance for thousands of New Yorkers.
• Requiring commercial insurance to reimburse outpatient behavioral and substance use disorder treatment services at no less than the Medicaid rate.  

Mental Health  

• Providing $55 million to establish 200 new inpatient psychiatric beds at State-run facilities.
• Investing $33 million to enhance mental health services targeting first responders and aiding individuals with mental illnesses involved in the criminal justice system.
• Allocating $19 million for mental health services for school-aged children.
• $75.8 million increase for Crisis Services, which includes improving public safety by addressing serious mental illness, and providing critical care to young people.
• $8 million increase to the Judiciary to support Mental Health Court operations. 
• Extending the Mental Health Support and Workforce Reinvestment Program for an additional three years, allowing Office of Mental Health to reinvest savings from the closure of State-operated inpatient facilities for workforce development activities and community mental health services

As New York continues to be a beacon for the nation amidst ongoing attacks on reproductive rights, the Senate Democrats used this year’s State Budget to advance greater protections and resources for those who utilize these services, ensuring that they remain available to all who need them. This includes:

• Passing First in the Nation Paid Prenatal Leave, providing 20 hours of paid sick time for pregnant employees to use for their prenatal care visits.
• Codifying the Reproductive Freedom and Equity Grant Program to provide funding for abortion providers and non-profit entities to support increased access to abortion.
• Enacting the Community Doula Expansion Grant Program to provide funding to community-based organizations for recruitment and retention and startup and administrative costs to increase the number of community doulas.
• Allowing the Health Commissioner to issue a statewide, non-patient specific order to provide doula services for any pregnant, birthing, or postpartum individual.
• Requiring Paid Breaks for Breast Milk Expression in the Workplace for 30 minutes.

The New York Senate Democrats have always understood that a brighter future starts with investments into our youth. Through this advocacy, the SFY 2024-25 Budget includes vital funding for youth programming and intervention services, with:

• $103.2 million for After School Programs, an increase of over $20 million from last year’s budget 
• $10 million for the Youth Sports Initiative. 
• $1.5 million in additional funding for the Youth Development Program, for a total of $15.6 million.
• $1 million in additional funding for the Runaway and Homeless Youth Act program, for a total of $8.1 million.
• $2 million in additional funding for Child Advocacy Centers, for a total of $7.2 million.

The SFY 2024-25 Enacted Budget continues the Senate Democratic Majority’s commitment to meeting New York’s climate goals by forging ahead on key investments and advancing modern policy to address the needs of the moment so we can not only stop, but also reverse the effects of climate change. This includes:

• Adding $250 million over the Executive proposal for the Clean Water Infrastructure Act for a total of  $500 million.
• Successfully reversing cuts to the Environmental Protection Fund for an investment of  $400 million to support climate priorities across New York State.
• Expediting the siting and construction of electrical transmission and commercial energy storage through the RAPID Act, with the addition of Senate Majority proposals to preserve prime agricultural land, incorporate greater community input in the siting process, and improve labor standards. 
• $300 million in Capital for enhancing and improving parks statewide and $150 million for the New York Statewide Investment in More Swimming (NYSWIMS) program to improve pools and build new ones in communities across the State. 

The New York State Senate Majority is building on record investments to infrastructure and local municipalities by restoring roads funding and putting more money into local government. This includes: 

• $50 million increase in AIM funding for local governments, the first increase in AIM in over a decade for a total of $765.2 million.
• The Senate’s successful inclusion of Sammy’s Law, which will authorize citywide speed limits to be reduced at DOT’s discretion, upon authorization from the New York City Council, allowing for the speed limits to be changed from 25 mph to 20 mph, and to lower special traffic-calming zones from 15 mph to 10 mph. 
• $2.5 million added by the Senate Democrats to establish and support the Dr. John L. Flateau Voting Rights and Elections Database of New York to assist in efforts to enforce the John R. Lewis Voting Rights Act of New York, increasing both accountability and transparency in New York’s elections system, and $5 million in assistance for Local Boards of Elections.
• $10 million in additional funds for Upstate STOA funding, for a total of $333.2 million.
• $4.2 billion for the MTA, an increase of $140 million or 3.4 percent from SFY 2023-24. 
• $551 million for non-MTA downstate systems, a 5.4 percent increase in funding. 
• $60 million in additional funding for CHIPS, for a total of $598 million.
• $40 million in additional funding for State Touring Routes, for a total of $140 million.
• $200 million per year for BRIDGE NY
• $150 million per year for PAVE NY
• $200 million for Pave our Potholes
• $100 million for Extreme Winter Recovery

The SFY 2024-25 Enacted Budget puts meaningful resources into public safety and the protection of all New Yorkers, of all backgrounds. This year’s funding builds on previous Senate Majority efforts by: 

• Expanding the range of offenses that can be prosecuted as hate crimes.
• Investing an additional $35 million in the Securing Communities Against Hate Grant to safeguard houses of worship, religious schools, and other vulnerable locations.
• Allocating $347 million to continue efforts to reduce and prevent gun violence in New York.
• Providing $35.7 million to combat and prosecute domestic violence crimes.
• Investing $7.1 million to provide more intensive supervision for individuals on parole through the Supervision Against Violent Engagement (SAVE) program
• Expanding transitional housing and college programming across all state prisons.
• $1 million for transportation for visitors to and from State Correctional Facilities.
• Implementing measures to combat toll evasion on roads and fare evasion on subways, commuter rails, and buses, including cracking down on vanish plates and fraudulent paper plates. 
• Creates a Class E felony for assaulting a retail worker. 
• Allowing for aggregation of retail theft crimes to make it easier to prosecute repeat offenders. 
• This budget creates a new Class A misdemeanor, Aggravated Harassment in the Second Degree, which would make it a crime for an individual to intentionally subject a transit worker to unlawful physical contact.
• Protecting against Sexually explicit Artificial Intelligence- expands the existing statutory right to privacy, which says that it is unlawful to use a person’s name, portrait, or picture for commercial advertising without consent, by adding “likeness and voice” to the list of protected characteristics. 
• Combatting the use of Deep fakes in Elections- the legislation requires distributors or publishers of “materially deceptive” political communications to disclose the use of digitization. It also gives candidates a private right of action to seek injunctive relief and court and attorneys’ fees.
• The Senate fought to include $30 million for AAPI Equity Coalition priorities for crisis intervention initiatives and community-based programs to combat bias crimes.
• The Senate fought to enact the Limousine Passenger Safety Task Force’s recommendations, including increasing the minimum fine for operating a stretch limousine that has been suspended with an out-of-service defect, requiring stretch limos to be equipped with a window break tool as well as a fire extinguisher, equipping stretch limos with anti-intrusion and roll-over protections, improving safety data reporting and requiring a pre-trip safety briefing for limo passengers.

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