2007 gmc yukon cruise not working

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Help please! Cruise control stopped working!

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For some reason my cruise control has stopped working, I have changed the brake switch already, all my brake lights signal lights work fine. It was turning on for like 10 seconds then turning off. Now the light just lights up on my steering wheel, but no light is lit on my dash. I don't know where else to check. all the fuses are good. Could the brand new brake switch I bought is bad? My truck has been tuned for over a year so I dont think that is it that would make it turn off at this time. If anyone could help Id be greatly appreciative! Thanks! * NO code was given. I just changed the brake switch as for trial and error. It is an AC Delco switch  

#PIT4508C: Cruise Control Inoperative - (Oct 5, 2012) Subject: Cruise Control Inoperative Models: 2007 - 2013 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe 2007 - 2013 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon Denali, Yukon XL, Yukon Denali XL With Brake Controller (RPO JL1) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This PI was superseded to update model years. Please discard PIT4508B. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI. Condition/Concern Some owners may comment of the cruise control being inoperative. The Trailer Brake Control Module (TBCM) may set a DTC B3894. Recommendation/Instructions If normal diagnostics do not lead to a correction, check the "Master Cylinder Pressure" sensor parameter listed in the TBCM data list. If it is displaying pressure with no brake pedal input, suspect a concern with the Master Cylinder Pressure Sensor, wiring/terminals, EBCM, etc. On Models with StabiliTrak (RPO JL4), the Master Cylinder Pressure Sensor is internal to the BPMV/EBCM. ADDITIONAL SI KEYWORDS: abs inop switch Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. Here is one bulliten I found. Going to be hard to diag with out a tech 2 .  

Here is another that might apply. #PIT5179A: Cruise Control Inoperative (Inspect Circuit 6311) - (Nov 2, 2016) Subject: Cruise Control Inoperative (Inspect Circuit 6311) Models: 2007-2014 Cadillac Escalade Models 2007-2013 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado 2007-2014 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe 2007-2013 GMC Sierra 2007-2014 GMC Yukon Models -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This PI was superseded to update the Model years and condition sections. Please discard PIT5179. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI. Condition/Concern When diagnosing a cruise control inoperative issue, it may be noticed that the "BPP Circuit Signal" and/or "TCC/Cruise Brake Pedal" parameters are showing "Applied" with the brake pedal released. These parameters can be found using the scan tool under ECM/Data Display/Cruise PTO Traction Data. These parameters use the input to the ECM on circuit 6311 to determine if the brake pedal is either applied or released (see example Doc ID 2064555). If the parameters are showing "Applied" with the brake pedal released, use a DVOM to check for voltage on circuit 6311 at the ECM. In many cases, there will be approximately 9 volts when there should not be any. Circuit 6311 is very unique in the fact that each module connected to this circuit, except for the BCM, outputs a very low amperage, reference voltage (approximately 9 volts). The BCM pulls this reference voltage down near 0 volts. When using a DVOM to monitor a properly working circuit, there would be approximately 12 volts with the brake pedal applied and near 0 volts with the brake pedal released. If there is a faulty BCM or an open/high resistance in circuit 6311 to the BCM, the reference voltage being sent out by each of the other modules will not be pulled down near 0 volts. If using a DVOM to monitor circuit 6311 at the ECM there will be approximately 9 volts with the brake pedal released. The presence of this voltage will make the modules think the brake pedal is applied when it is not and the cruise will be inoperative. Note: Remember circuit 6311 will have voltage at the ECM, from the brake switch, when the brake pedal is applied. So do NOT over look the obvious cause of a shorted brake pedal switch or a brake switch not fully releasing. Recommendation/Instructions Inspect for any opens/high resistance or terminal issue in circuit 6311. Repair as necessary.  

Was going to post this early but called out  

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Chevy dealer says its the SIR Coil . They want to do it for $450!!  

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Cruise control not working

• 2007 GMC YUKON
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5 Reasons Why Your Cruise Control Stopped Working

• Updated: March 15, 2023

It would be difficult to find a vehicle on the road today without cruise control. This invaluable feature makes driving long distances easier but can also cause trouble when it malfunctions. Understanding the reasons your cruise control stopped working ensures that you can get the problem fixed quickly for a more enjoyable ride. 

While this fault can cause issues with the cruise control system itself, there could also be an effect on the acceleration of your vehicle. That’s why you want to have it looked at as soon as you notice a problem. Let’s take a quick look at the reasons your cruise control may have stopped working.

Reasons Why Your Cruise Control Stopped Working

The most common reason a cruise control stops working is due to a blown fuse or a defective brake pedal switch . It can also be caused by issues with the throttle control system or the ABS. In older cruise control systems, it can be caused by a broken vacuum line.

Here is a more detailed list of the possible reasons your cruise control is not working:

1. Blown Fuse

All electrical systems in the vehicle are controlled by fuses. Your cruise control system is attached to a fuse that can blow if there is a short circuit or fault. Without a good fuse, the cruise control system can’t work at all.

Thankfully, it’s not difficult to find and replace a blown fuse. Look in the owner’s manual to find the fuse that corresponds with the cruise control technology. 

2. Defective Brake Pedal Switch

The brake pedal switch is responsible for turning the brake lights on and off based on the pedal position. Cruise control systems are designed to disengage whenever your brake pedal gets pressed. 

Because the cruise control is wired into the brake pedal switch, any fault can cause it to stop working. When the brake pedal switch malfunctions, the car believes the brakes are engaged, causing the system to turn off automatically. Not only that, but your car’s brake light might also be stuck on, leaving confused drivers in your wake. 

3. Malfunctioning Speed Sensor

Speed sensors are located on every wheel or differential. The purpose of these sensors is to monitor the speed of the wheels to determine if traction control is needed. 

The speed sensors are also part of the cruise control system. When a sensor fails, the cruise control can stop working and the speedometer might act strange as well. 

If there is an issue with a speed sensor, it will often show with an ABS warning light or a check engine light on the dashboard.

RELATED: 3 Symptoms of a Bad ABS Wheel Speed Sensor

4. Electrical Issues

The cruise control system is electronic, with many components working together to make the system operate. If the cruise control fails to work, you want to check the wiring harness and associated connectors for a fault.

You also need to ensure that the voltage source is supplying enough power to the system. Even the smallest fault can cause defects with the cruise control. In many cases, there can be an issue with the cruise control lever or buttons causing the cruise control to not engage.

If your cruise control buttons are located on the steering wheel it could also be caused by a bad clock spring, which is located behind the steering wheel.

Check the system with an OBD2 scanner to look for any trouble codes related to the cruise control.

RELATED: 5 Symptoms of a Broken Clock Spring, Location & Replacement Cost

5. Damaged Vacuum Actuator, Hoses or Cable (Older cruise control)

If you drive an older vehicle with cruise control, you might have an issue with the vacuum actuator or the cable that connects to the throttle. If there has been damage done to the vacuum hoses or the actuator, the cruise control will stop working altogether.

Additionally, the cable linking the actuator to the throttle must be in good shape. If it has been broken, the cruise control will fail. 

What is Cruise Control?

Cruise control is a feature that is used when you are traveling at a consistent speed. Cruise control was first introduced for automobiles in the 1950s. However, it took many years before it became a staple in the modern vehicle.

This electrical system allows you to set a predetermined speed and take your foot off of the gas pedal. If you are on a long drive, there is less fatigue because you don’t have to try to maintain your speed. Cruise control can also benefit fuel economy because the vehicle uses less fuel when traveling steadily. 

In newer cars, you might be able to find adaptive cruise control , which is a smart technology. Adaptive cruise control allows you to travel at a predetermined speed, but it also helps to maintain a safe distance from the vehicles in front of you with the help of sensors. With conventional cruise control, you need to take over when the car in front of you slows down, but that’s not the case with adaptive cruise control. 

There are also vehicles nowadays with not only cruise control, but fully self-driving vehicles . We will most likely see much more of this in the future.

Cruise Control Repair Cost

The cost to repair your cruise control system depends on what caused it to fail. If you need to replace a cruise control or brake switch, you might spend between $125 and $350, including parts and labor. However, the cost to change a fuse is only a few dollars and you can perform the replacement yourself in just a matter of seconds. 

On the other hand, when something major fails, such as the actuator, you could be looking at a much higher repair bill. In some vehicles, the cost to replace a cruise control actuator can cost more than $700. These costs rise if you drive a luxury vehicle or one that is difficult to get parts for. 

It might not seem immediately important for you to fix the broken cruise control, but this defective system can affect other performance aspects. You could start to notice issues with acceleration or have trouble with the speedometer. To play it safe, it’s always best to have the cruise control repaired as soon as you notice a problem.

Is there a fuse for the cruise control?

Yes. If the cruise control is installed from the factory, you should check your car’s owner’s manual for the fuse location. If it’s an aftermarket cruise control, you’ll need to follow the wires to find the fuse.

Does the brake switch affect the cruise control system?

Yes. The brake switch affects the cruise control system. The brake switch sends a signal to the cruise control system to let it know when the brakes are being applied for the engine to know when it should stop accelerating.

Will the cruise control work if the check engine light is on?

The cruise control function will be disabled when the check engine light is on in most car models, even if the cause of the check engine light is not the cruise control itself. This is mainly due to safety reasons.

Can a vacuum leak affect cruise control?

Older vehicles use vacuum to control the throttle for the cruise control, and in this case a vacuum leak can heavily affect the cruise control. However, modern cruise controls are fully electric and in most cases will not be affected by a vacuum leak if the check engine light is not illuminated.

Although many people may think that the cruise control system is unimportant and not worth spending money to repair, the problem can be caused by a faulty part that will affect the engine’s performance or durability. Therefore, it is best not to ignore the problem if your cruise control is not working without first diagnosing the car properly.

If your cruise control still isn’t working after trying all the tips in this article, it’s probably time to take it in for a professional opinion from a mechanic. It may be a more serious problem that requires replacement parts or repairs. In the meantime, drive safe and enjoy the open road!

Learn more:

• Brake Lights Not Working But Tail Lights Are? (How to Fix)
• Tail Lights Not Working But Brake Lights Are? (How to Fix)
• Brake Lights Stay On? (5 Causes & How to Fix it)

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Service Stabilitrak, Service Traction Control, Cruise Control/Brake Light Switch Issues

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I've searched this site and so many others and it seems many people have an issue with the Service Stabilitrak/Traction Control Lights. Many people have suggested that replacing the Brake Light Switch will fix the problem. Other people complain that these issues are accompanied by reduced engine power, poor gas mileage, etc. Nobody has a concrete solution. Or, am I wrong? I hope I'm wrong. Here's what's going on with me: I purchased a 2007 Escalade ESV in July 2016 with 107k miles. The cruise control did not work at all when we purchased it, but there were no warning lights or any other noticeable issues with the truck. So, I replaced the Brake Light Switch with one that I purchased from the local GM dealer. The cruise control worked like a charm and there were no issues for several months. In December 2016, the cruise control started faltering - it would work sometimes but not others. I took the Brake Light Switch back to the dealer and they gave me a new one. Again, this seemed to fix the problem, but only for a few weeks. 2-3 weeks ago, we got the flashing Service Stabilitrak, Service Traction Control, Traction Control Off warnings in the message center. At first it was pretty intermittent, but now those lights come on almost every time we drive on the highway. Whenever those lights come on, the cruise control doesn't work. The cruise control works fine until those warnings appear. The vehicle DOES NOT suffer from any reduced engine power or any discernible reduction in gas mileage as noted by others with the same warning lights coming on. Note: the dealer warrantied the first Brake Light Switch I purchased, but said they will not do any further replacements without bringing in the truck for diagnosis. Based on what I've read about similar issues with these warning lights, the dealer has no idea what to do and their guesses have cost people thousands of dollars with seemingly no solution in sight. The most common solutions I've read, besides replacing the Brake Light Switch, include replacing the throttle body sensor or the entire throttle body. However, some folks state this has not solved their problem. Any ideas?  

Well, CC not working when all those other errors are lite up, is the way it is designed. They're not going to let the truck drive in an auto fashion if there is some other problem. I suspect, the Check Engine Light is also on, you should have the codes read.  

Guess we'll have to keep reading these posts until someone comes up with a clear fix. Guess I'll try the Brake Light Switch this time. Tried the TPS replacement to no avail. Service Stabilitrak, Service Traction Control, Traction Control Off warnings continue to plague me. No codes are thrown, just a power reduction and flashing warnings. I get to the emergency lane, shut down the vehicle for a minute, then restart and I'm on my way till the next time.  

you may have to spring for the diagnostics read...there may not be a checck engine light on, that doesnt mean that its not storing codes that could be read and diagnosed...also, if the dealer reads the codes, they can't fix anything unless you give them your go ahead.  

You can probably buy a decent scan gauge for what the dealer charges for a "diagnostic test". Ted  

I know this won't be helpful to you at all but, your problem is the closest to mine, jt. I have a 2012 Sierra 1500 and mine started doing this recently. It happens either immediately on start up or just a minute or so after. The message will pop-up "Service Stabilitrak, Service Traction Control" and then both will turn off. I do not get a Check Engine Light either. I have a decent scan tool, not top of the line but, it works. It did not pull any codes, stored or recent. My cruise control still works and I have no loss in power. The brake light switch seems like a long shot in my case at this point. I was hoping you might have a good starting point now.  

Guys we have a very long thread on the same problems that you are having. I'm not saying, that this will fix yours; however, the common problem is the sensor, on the throttle body, that monitors the movement of the gas peddle. Some vehicles are covered under a 10 year warranty.  

I've got a 2007 chevrolet silverado 1500, stabilitrak and traction control service light on, replaced steering wheel position sensor and checked all grounds! only code is the steering sensor. could use a little input.  

This seems to a perennial GM problem. My '07 Lucerne was showing the same service brake assist / track control, and cruise control syndrome after I replace a failing power brake booster. Seems like one , two, and sometimes all three problems would come and go, and while diagnostics did find a couple issues, none off them solved anything, for very long. My own guess was a sensor fail somewhere, but neither I nor the GMC/Buick tech could nail it. Electronics are funny that way. I'll try the brake switch solution mentoned above and see what happens.  

This started after the booster change? If so, could the rod be too long and not letting the brake switch operate?  

Might be! Thanks for the suggestion.  

I’ve got a 2008 Chevy avalanche ltz with the auto ride system. I lifted it with a body lift with the arnott suspension lift kit but the ebm that was included did not work. They aren’t going to warranty the kit. I'm currently getting “service stabilitrack, service traction control, and service abs system.” I can’t get them off. I was told the brake light switch may fix the problem. Do you think it will?  

I doubt if it's a brake light switch problem  

some say that may be the problem and others have said to add resistors to each shock in order to “trick” the computer. I’m clueless now and getting frustrated.  

Well, the brake light switches do fail, I don't think they cause this problem; but the odds are you will need a new one down the road. Point I'm making, they are cheap, easy to change and if it cures the problem great, if not, you have a spare.  

I know this is an Old thread, but did anyone ever come to a conclusion or solution for any of your problems? I see lots of questions and suggestions, but nobody ever reported back as to whether or not the suggestions ever fixed their problem.  

I bought a 2017 GMC 4x4 SLT. Very nice truck with 58k miles. Due to the expense and all the electronic stuff these vehicles come with a also had a complete diagnostic check done by the dealer and they agreed to an extended warranty. (addl 60k miles). within week of purchase I was having surges, etc when stopping and starting. They said it was a recall bulletin and the trans oil was wrong viscosity. Changed it and it lasted appx a year and started up again with similar jinking and stabilitrak errors and issues. Again, same dealer said it was electrical and after a weeks diagnosis, claimed it was the battery cables not carrying sufficient voltage and replaced them both +/- cables. Within a month or so, again stabilitrak errors this time not allowing the trans to shift and 50mph on freeway hits 3500rpm...back again to the dealer and they charged me 350$ for a transmission flush because oil changes not covered by extended warranty.... lasted a week and it's parked at home till i can get off work to take it back. This time I'll leave it till they can prove its fixed.... Any suggestions? Anyone at all?  

jcebase67 said: I bought a 2017 GMC 4x4 SLT. Very nice truck with 58k miles.. Again, same dealer said it was electrical and after a weeks diagnosis, claimed it was the battery cables not carrying sufficient voltage and replaced them both +/- cables. ... Any suggestions? Anyone at all? Click to expand...

If it's the 8 speed, do a search on GM 8 speed transmissions, a number of law suits for your problem  

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No cruise but light on steering wheel is on! Here's the fix.

• Thread starter welderguy1
• Start date Sep 25, 2011
• Sep 25, 2011

Hello all, I found my answer to my cruise problem on the forum and just want to say its alot cheaper than taking it to the garage. I lost my cruise on my 2008 Avalanche Z71 and was very frustrated. The lighted cruise button on my steering wheel would light up but no cruise. After some research this appears to be a regular problem with gm trucks. The brake light switch seems to be the culprit. There are two sets of contacts in the switch one being for the brake lights (which worked fine on my truck) and the 2nd to deactivate the cruise. I purchased my switch at GM Canada and it was 30 bucks. It is very easy to get out and only took me six minutes to remove and replace. Only one bolt and out she came. On the road and bingo cruise was back. I took the old switch apart and sure enough one set of contacts was seized closed. Well I hope this helps somebody else out.  

ohiobellboy

• Oct 14, 2011

Great info, but FYI rockauto has the switch for $2.99 clearance, and around $9 for AC delco... hopefully this will fix my intermediate cruise problem rob  

I've had the problem intermittently on my 07.  Anyone got a part number?  

• Oct 26, 2011

The AC delco part # is D1539J.  i got mine for $9.21 from rockauto and like yours mine was intermittant.  The brake lights were fine, but the side that does the cruise also does the trailer brakes and i drug my trailer for 500 miles off and on not knowing it. easy fix under the dash, just the wires to unplug and a quick release clip holding it on.. rob Thanks to the OP for this!!  fixed my problem...  

Excellent. Thanks  

• Nov 26, 2011
• Apr 30, 2012

welderguy1 said: Hello all, I found my answer to my cruise problem on the forum and just want to say its alot cheaper than taking it to the garage. I lost my cruise on my 2008 Avalanche Z71 and was very frustrated. The lighted cruise button on my steering wheel would light up but no cruise. After some research this appears to be a regular problem with gm trucks. The brake light switch seems to be the culprit. There are two sets of contacts in the switch one being for the brake lights (which worked fine on my truck) and the 2nd to deactivate the cruise. I purchased my switch at GM Canada and it was 30 bucks. It is very easy to get out and only took me six minutes to remove and replace. Only one bolt and out she came. On the road and bingo cruise was back. I took the old switch apart and sure enough one set of contacts was seized closed. Well I hope this helps somebody else out. Click to expand...

• Nov 16, 2012

• Aug 8, 2013

Having the same problem with my 2007, but... I bought the truck used two weeks ago. The cruise control worked all during the 200 mile drive home, but hasn't worked since. I replaced the brake light switch with one from gmpartsdirect.com. It did not fix the problem. I took apart the old switch and there does not appear to be anything wrong with it. I've tried resetting the error code with my Predator (it just comes back) as well as disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. Any ideas or suggestions?  

• Aug 9, 2013
• Aug 28, 2013

Stackrat said: Having the same problem with my 2007, but... I bought the truck used two weeks ago. The cruise control worked all during the 200 mile drive home, but hasn't worked since. I replaced the brake light switch with one from gmpartsdirect.com. It did not fix the problem. I took apart the old switch and there does not appear to be anything wrong with it. I've tried resetting the error code with my Predator (it just comes back) as well as disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. Any ideas or suggestions? Click to expand...

Here ya go  

Attachments

• Aug 29, 2013

MS03 2500 said: Here ya go Click to expand...

• Jun 8, 2015

Can someone help me out with this problem.  I have the same issue but when I go to replace the switch the bolt is not a 10mm like in the video posted. Mine looks like a round bolt that's threaded on the inside.  I got the retaining clip off with no problem. How do I get the bolt out?  

• Jun 9, 2015

Brake switch replacement fixed my cruise!! Thanks!  

• Jun 10, 2015

Like I noted in the other thread about this issue..... a few simple kicks at the brake pedal and letting it fly back up clears up the sticky switch and cruise will work again for at least another year.  

PromptCritical

Stackrat said: <humor> Geez!  I mention I'm having problems here and nobody responds.  I put one sentence about this in a four paragraph post on a completely unrelated thread and three people jump in - making me look like the jerk for highjacking the other guy's thread! </humor> Anywhooo... It keeps throwing the code: P0573 Brake Switch Circuit "A" High Took apart the old switch and found nothing wrong with it, mechanically or electrically.  Took apart the new switch and found nothing wrong with it, mechanically or electrically.  I have even tested both sets of contacts for proper operation with a DMM while the switch was installed in the vehicle, both with and without the brakes applied.  I actually have a third switch on order (the 2012+ design), but at this point, it would be Einstein's definition of insanity.  I've pretty much ruled out the switch as the cause. I looked at the two connectors at the back corners going up to each of the tail lights.  The contacts looked good and clean.  I sprayed electrical cleaner in them and applied bulb grease just in case.  I did not disturb the ABS system under the vehicle (below the driver's seat) because I didn't see any of the wire colors I was interested in and I didn't want cause any additional problems. I have searched the heck out of this site, and several others, to no avail. Has anyone else had issues with the Cruise Control not working that WASN'T fixed by the brake switch replacement or otherwise posted about in any other thread on this site, to-date? Does anyone have the circuit diagrams related to the Brake Switch, BCM and Taillights? Thanks in advance... Click to expand...

PromptCritical said: ... Usually the threads dead-end with "figured it out" and nothing more. Click to expand...

• Sep 26, 2015

My cruise control just started this, hopefully this will be my fix  

• Sep 30, 2015

Sweet. Mine just started acting up. Will fix it soon. Started today and its bugging me.  

asianpastor

• Oct 9, 2016

Purchased a 2011 Suburban 2500 and Cruise did not work, but trailer lights and brake lights worked flawlessly. Purchased the AC Delco specific part from Rock Auto and it took me about 10 minutes to change it out.  Hardest thing was just bending to get under the steering wheel, but was definitely an easy fix.  Cost $12 with shipping.  Thanks to the OP for the fix.  

• Feb 27, 2017

I have a 2008 avalanche 4wd 5.3l LT and ran into the same issues with my cruise control. I had bought the replacement part from Autozone for $20 and swapped it with the original (broke) part and was ready to roll. Once I turned my truck on a bunch of messages came up; service stabilitrak, traction control off, ABS icon,and check engine icon, I also could not shift my truck into gear from park. Once I disconnected the part, the truck was running like it had before with no error codes or problems shifting. I went back to autozone and tried three different parts to make sure I didn't receive a defective one. I leave for Florida (from Ohio) this Friday and am looking to have cruise control for the ride. Has anyone else had this issue? Is it my computer rejecting for some reason? Do I need to purchase the part from a GM dealer? Thank you for the help and time guys .  

bstepp39 said: I have a 2008 avalanche 4wd 5.3l LT and ran into the same issues with my cruise control. I had bought the replacement part from Autozone for $20 and swapped it with the original (broke) part and was ready to roll. Once I turned my truck on a bunch of messages came up; service stabilitrak, traction control off, ABS icon,and check engine icon, I also could not shift my truck into gear from park. Once I disconnected the part, the truck was running like it had before with no error codes or problems shifting. I went back to autozone and tried three different parts to make sure I didn't receive a defective one. I leave for Florida (from Ohio) this Friday and am looking to have cruise control for the ride. Has anyone else had this issue? Is it my computer rejecting for some reason? Do I need to purchase the part from a GM dealer? Thank you for the help and time guys . Click to expand...

• Feb 28, 2017

No I haven't changed any of my lights on my truck. My right rear tail light went out (the one on the top) and I replaced it with the correct part. I returned the autozone switch I bought and got the suggested one, from the forum off of amazon, and plugged it in tonight and it still didnt work. I even plugged the old (broken) one back in and gave me the same error, I did nothing but replaced the switch and everything has gone weird after that.  

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Cruise control not working on 2007 gmc denali

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5 Related Answers

• 328 Answers
• Posted on Feb 16, 2009

SOURCE: cruise control wont work

normally the brake switch is the issue with these trucks. it is located under the dash where the brake pedal meets the linkage to the brake booster.

• Not Helpful
• Posted on Mar 16, 2009

SOURCE: 2005 gmc yukon xl denali service ride control

it has to do with your air ride suspension best bet is take it to the dealer there is probably a problem with a level sensor. hope this helps you

• Posted on Mar 18, 2009

SOURCE: wiring diagram or fuse box diagram-2007 GMC Envoy Denali

• 2049 Answers
• Posted on Oct 13, 2009

SOURCE: 2007 GMC YUKON denali, rear brakes have an air

Here's a link to a thorough article on the subject which should help you... http://www.aa1car.com/library/abs_bleeding.htm

• 432 Answers
• Posted on Feb 05, 2010

SOURCE: 1990 GMC Sierra 1500 pickup. Windshield wipers, Cruise Control

May want to look at replacing the wiper circuit board.It is located on the firewall adjacent to the wiper motor and has a some what square black cover with 3 torx screws and wireing harness pluged into the side.We had a truck that every time you washed it the wipers would stay on until it dryed out.You can try removing it and spaying it down with contact cleaner just watch the brease on the two contact tips.Well hope this helps.

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