2001 winnebago journey batteries

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Winnebago Journey Owner's Manual

• Service manual (197 pages)
• Manual (181 pages)
• User manual (161 pages)
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Table of Contents

• Introduction
• About this Manual
• Freightliner Chassis Operating Guide
• Diesel Engine Manual
• Owner's Infocase
• Options and Equipment
• Before Driving
• Service and Assistance
• Drinking and Driving
• Reporting Safety Defects
• Vehicle Certification Label
• Section 1: Safety Precautions
• General Warnings
• Fuel & LP Gas
• LP Gas Leaks
• LP Gas Alarm
• Power Connection
• Maintenance
• Formaldehyde Information
• Carbon Monoxide Warning
• Emergency Exit Windows
• Carbon Monoxide Alarm
• Emergency Exits
• Fire Extinguisher
• Smoke Alarm
• Driving Your Motorhome
• Before Entering Your Vehicle
• Before Driving Your Vehicle
• Filling the Fuel Tank
• Section 2: Driving Your Motor Home
• Fuel Selection
• Starting and Stopping Engine
• Engine Block Heater
• Parking Brakes
• Engine Exhaust Braking System
• Hazard Warning Lights
• Entrance Door Lock and Handle
• Electric Entrance Step
• Stepwell Cover
• Luggage Compartment Doors
• Power Electric Mirrors
• Sony Rearview TV Monitor System
• Electronic Compass & Outside Thermometer
• Specifications
• Remote Controlled Spot/Flood Light
• Child Restraints
• Multi-Function Signal Lever
• Headlight Beam Change and Turn Signals
• Steering Tilt/Telescope
• Cruise Control
• Windshield Wash/Wipe Switch
• Comfort Controls
• Antenna Check Light
• Compact Disc Changer
• Aux. Start Switch
• Driving Your Motor Home
• Auxiliary Battery (Aux. Batt) Switch
• CB Radio Wiring
• SWR Adjustment
• Hydraulic Coach Leveling System
• Slideout Room Extension
• Section 3: in Case of Driving Emergency
• Hazard Warning Flasher
• Recovery Towing
• Jump Starting
• Connecting Jumper Cables
• Connecting a Battery Charger
• Engine Overheat
• Loading the Vehicle
• Front Axle Tire Alignment
• Weighing Your Loaded Vehicle
• Maximum Occupancy
• Roof Loading
• Car or Trailer Towing
• Pre-Travel Check List
• Travel Tips
• Severe Weather Information
• Nighttime Driving
• Mountain Driving
• Campsite Selection
• Effects of Prolonged Occupancy
• Humidity and Condensation
• Section 5: Lp Gas System
• LP Gas Supply
• Safe Use of the LP Gas System
• How LP Gas Works
• Refilling Lp Tank
• Air in the LP Gas Tank
• Winter Use of LP Gas
• Section 6: Electrical Systems
• 110-Volt AC System
• External Power Cord (Shoreline)
• Connecting the Shoreline
• Powerline Energy Management System (EMS)
• Power Converter System
• Inverter/Charger and Circuit Breaker Locations
• 110-Volt Circuit Breakers
• Charging Section
• Thermal Overload Protector
• Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter
• Auxiliary 110-Volt Generator
• Operation Warnings and Cautions
• 12-Volt DC System
• Solar Charger Panel
• Chassis (Starting) Battery
• House Batteries
• Battery Condition Meter
• Trailer Wiring Connector
• Section 7: Plumbing Systems
• Fresh Water System
• External Water Supply (City Water)
• Exterior Shower
• Waste Water System (Holding Tanks)
• Dumping Holding Tanks
• Utility Light
• Water Drain Valves
• Holding Tank Capacities
• Refrigerator
• LP Gas Cooktop
• Microwave/Convection Oven
• Oneplace Systems Monitor Panel
• LP Gas Level
• Water Pump Switch
• Washer Dryer
• Gas/Electric Water Heater
• Water Heater By-Pass Valve
• LP Gas Furnace (Suburban)
• Electronic Thermostat
• Air Conditioner Filter
• Signal Amplifier
• Video Selector System
• Exterior Entertainment Center
• Table and Chairs
• Dinette Chairs
• Rest Easy Multi-Position Lounge
• Swivel Glider Lounge Chair
• Fresh Water Toilet
• Power Roof Vent
• Slider Windows
• Crank-Out Side Windows
• Care of Stripes and Decals
• Vinyl Fabrics
• Vinyl Wallboard
• Range and Refrigerator
• Doors and Windows
• Chassis Service & Maintenance
• Rear Engine Grille
• Engine Top Cover
• Fuel/Water Separator
• Engine Cooling System
• Suspension Alignment and Tire Balance
• Windshield Washers and Wipers
• Automotive 12-Volt Fuses and Circuit Breakers
• Section 10: Storing Your Motor Home
• Preparing Vehicle for Storage
• Cold Weather Storage Procedure (Winterizing)
• RV Antifreeze Water Line Winterization Systems
• Removal from Storage

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Related manuals for winnebago journey, summary of contents for winnebago journey.

• Page 1 Your Journey motor home has been carefully designed, engineered and manufactured to provide de- pendability as well as safety. Before sliding into the driver’s seat, take a few minutes to become familiar with operations and features.
• Page 2 CAUTION CAUTION indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, could result in damage mainly to equipment or property, but in some cases may also result in minor or moderate personal injury. NOTE: A ‘Note’ is not necessarily safety related but indicates a recommendation or special point of information that could assist in understanding the use or care of a feature item.
• Page 3 OWNER’S NAME STREET ADDRESS CITY AND STATE (OR PROVINCE IN CANADA) MOTOR HOME SERIAL NUMBER VEHICLE CHASSIS IDENTIFICATION NO. (VIN) DATE OF DELIVERY TO FIRST RETAIL PURCHASER VEHICLE MILEAGE AT TIME OF DELIVERY SELLING DEALER NAME AND ADDRESS TANK CAPACITIES Diesel Fuel Tank Freightliner Chassis ................90 gals.
• Page 5 WARRANTY COVERAGE TO OWNER ITEMS NOT SUBJECT TO WARRANTY COVERAGE. Winnebago Industries, Inc. of Forest City, Iowa warrants each new Chassis, Drivetrain and related components* Winnebago Industries motor home to the owner for use in the U.S.A. Wheels* Tires* and Canada as follows:...
• Page 6 ADDRESS ZIP CODE WINNEBAGO INDUSTRIES VEHICLE MILEAGE DATE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER CHASSIS IDENTIFICATION NEW OWNER SIGNATURE IMPORTANT: THIS NOTICE IS TO BE USED ONLY FOR RECORD KEEPING BY WINNEBAGO INDUSTRIES The completed form does not constitute an actual change of ownership...

Page 7: Table Of Contents

• Page 8 TABLE OF CONTENTS SECTION 5: LP GAS SYSTEM OnePlace Systems Monitor Panel....8- 8 LP Gas Supply ..........5- 1 LP Gas Level ..........8- 9 Safe Use of the LP Gas System ....5- 1 Water Pump Switch ........8- 9 How LP Gas Works ........
• Page 9 TABLE OF CONTENTS SECTION 10: STORING YOUR MOTOR HOME Preparing Vehicle for Storage..... 10- 1 Cold Weather Storage Procedure (Winterizing)........... 10- 1 RV Antifreeze Water Line Winterization Systems ........... 10- 4 Removal from Storage ........ 10- 5...

Page 11: Introduction

Page 12: owner's infocase, page 13: reporting safety defects, page 14: vehicle certification label, page 15: section 1: safety precautions, page 16: driving, page 17: lp gas leaks, page 18: electrical, page 19: maintenance, page 20: carbon monoxide alarm, page 21: fire extinguisher.

• Page 22 SECTION 1 SAFETY PRECAUTIONS smoke in a careful, fire-safe manner into your smoke alarm. Press to Test 2. Your smoke alarm will not work without power. Never remove the battery to quiet the alarm. When your smoke alarm “beeps” about once a minute the battery is weak. Install a new battery immediately.

Page 23: Driving Your Motorhome

Page 24: section 2: driving your motor home, page 25: engine block heater, page 26: engine exhaust braking system, page 27: entrance door lock and handle, page 28: stepwell cover, page 29: luggage compartment doors, page 30: sony rearview tv monitor system, page 31: electronic compass & outside thermometer, page 32: remote controlled spot/flood light, page 33: seats.

• Page 34 SECTION 2 DRIVING YOUR MOTOR HOME • Put the left armrest down. • Swivel the seat to the right until it just con- tacts the steering wheel, then slide the seat forward all the way. • Lift the recliner lever and let the seat back tilt forward to clear the steering wheel.

Page 35: Seat Belts

Page 36: child restraints.

• Page 37 SECTION 2 DRIVING YOUR MOTOR HOME niently so that you are able to install it cor- rectly each time it is used. 3. Be certain that it is appropriate for the child's height, weight and development. The instructions and/or the regulation label attached to the restraint typically provides this information.
• Page 38 SECTION 2 DRIVING YOUR MOTOR HOME INSTRUMENT PANEL 11. Aux. Battery Disconnect Switch 1. Windshield Wipe/Wash Switch 12. Aux. Generator Start/Stop Switch 2. Battery Boost Switch 13. Rearview (Backup) Monitor** 3. Fog Lamp Switch 14. Electronic Compass/Thermometer** 4. Headlight Switch 15.

Page 39: Multi-Function Signal Lever

Page 40: windshield wash/wipe switch, page 41: antenna check light, page 42: compact disc changer, page 43: driving your motor home, page 44: hydraulic coach leveling system, page 45: slideout room extension.

• Page 46 SECTION 2 DRIVING YOUR MOTOR HOME Your coach is equipped with a galley/living room slideout extension to enlarge your living area at the push of a button. The slideout room extends and retracts by hydraulic mechanisms with an electronic control system. The lounge slideout switch is located on the lower right dash bezel.
• Page 47 SECTION 2 DRIVING YOUR MOTOR HOME • Level the coach. • Set the Parking Brake. An interlock relay system will then provide power to the slide- out control switches. • Release travel straps (galley). • Press slide-out switch and hold until room is fully extended, then release switch.
• Page 48 SECTION 2 DRIVING YOUR MOTOR HOME If Slideout Room Will Not Operate (Troubleshooting) WARNING • The chassis battery may be low on charge. Press the Aux. Start switch on the dash to the momentary (MOM) position while pressing Stop engine, place transmission in the slide-out control switch.
• Page 49 • Remove the heating registor from the floor (2 • See an authorized Winnebago Industries screws) and place the winch base into the dealer for service of the room extension sys- floor duct as shown.
• Page 50 SECTION 2 DRIVING YOUR MOTOR HOME Step 2B - (For Models 36G & 39K with Flat Floor Slideout) • A wheel (lug) nut wrench is used to crank the room inward. You may use the wrench sup- plied wth the coach (in one of the storage compartments) or any type of lug wrench of the same nut size.
• Page 51 If an apparent cause is not found, call the NOTE: When the system has been corrected, check hydraulic fluid level and refill res- number on your Winnebago Industries Premium ervoir as necessary. Press the Retract Roadside Assistance card. They will dispatch a...
• Page 52 SECTION 2 DRIVING YOUR MOTOR HOME voir, or between the two marks on the breather cap dipstick shown in the following illustration. *NOTE: If you do not know the model number of your coach, check the Vehicle Certifica- tion Label on the wall panel to the left of the drivers seat.

Page 53: Section 3: In Case Of Driving Emergency

Page 54: jump starting, page 55: connecting a battery charger.

• Page 56 SECTION 3 IN CASE OF DRIVING EMERGENCY necessary. Make sure there are no broken belts, pulleys or hoses before adding any coolant to the coolant reservoir. For further information about overheating, consult your Freightliner chassis operating guide and Caterpillar Diesel Engine manual.

Page 57: Loading The Vehicle

• Page 58 SECTION 4 TRAVELING WITH YOUR MOTOR HOME grain storage elevators have scales available. If You will receive a weight ‘ticket’ that states you don’t know of a truck scale in your area, your current Front Gross Axle Weight, Rear look in the Yellow Pages for entries such as Gross Axle Weight and Gross Vehicle Weight.

Page 59: Maximum Occupancy

Page 60: pre-travel check list, page 61: travel tips, page 62: nighttime driving, page 63: mountain driving, page 64: effects of prolonged occupancy, page 65: section 5: lp gas system, page 66: selecting lp fuel types, page 67: air in the lp gas tank, page 68: regulator, page 69: winter use of lp gas, page 71: section 6: electrical systems, page 72: connecting the shoreline, page 73: powerline energy management system (ems), page 74: 110-volt circuit breakers, page 75: charging section, page 76: auxiliary 110-volt generator.

• Page 77 SECTION 6 ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS switches in two locations inside the coach; in manufacturer’s manual. Then see the follow- addition to the switch on the generator itself: ing electrical load chart to estimate your typ- ical loads. · Instrument Panel · Systems Monitor Panel (One Place) Stopping The generator starter circuit does not rely on •...

Page 78: Operation Warnings And Cautions

Page 79: solar charger panel, page 80: house batteries, page 81: battery condition meter, page 83: section 7: plumbing systems, page 84: water pump.

• Page 85 SECTION 7 PLUMBING SYSTEMS To Clean Pump Strainer 7. Check to be sure pump stops soon after all faucets have been closed. • Push the flat inlet cover in towards the 8. Pump is now ready for automatic operation. rounded bowl section and twist counter- Pump will start when a faucet is opened and clockwise about 1/4 turn to disengage from stop when the faucet is closed.

Page 86: External Water Supply (City Water)

Page 87: exterior shower, page 88: waste water system (holding tanks), page 89: using on-site sewer hook-ups, page 90: utility light.

• Page 91 SECTION 7 PLUMBING SYSTEMS valves’ which are open when parallel to the line Models 32’ & Workhorse 39’: Place the exte- (in-line) and closed when perpendicular (at a rior shower head on the ground and open the right angle) as shown. shower faucets to drain the water lines on these See the following photos and descriptions for models.

Page 92: Holding Tank Capacities

Page 93: refrigerator.

• Page 94 SECTION 8 APPLIANCES & INTERIOR FEATURES Normal vehicle leveling to provide comfort for the occupants is satisfactory for refrigerator operation. This will be well within the operation limits of 3° off-level side-to-side and 6°off-level front-to-back. OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS The ON/OFF button turns the refrigerator on or off.
• Page 95 SECTION 8 APPLIANCES & INTERIOR FEATURES During operation in the AUTO mode, when operating controls will select an alternate power a higher priority power source becomes avail- source (AUTO Mode) or MANUAL mode, will able, the operating controls will cease using the revert to a stand-by mode in which an alarm will current power source and will switch to the sound and code A1 will be displayed in the cen-...
• Page 96 SECTION 8 APPLIANCES & INTERIOR FEATURES position. This shuts off all DC power to the light Operating the Ice Maker and humidity heater and allows the refrigerator 1. Connect the coach shoreline to a 110VAC door to be left open for airing without draining source and switch the refrigerator to AUTO the battery.
• Page 97 SECTION 8 APPLIANCES & INTERIOR FEATURES bin to the freezer, remember to lower the 5. Let the ice maker cycle and dump the first shut-off arm (on). If the arm is up, the ice batch of ice. maker will not operate. Troubleshooting the Ice Maker 1.

Page 98: Lp Gas Cooktop

Page 99: microwave/convection oven, page 100: oneplace systems monitor panel, page 101: lp gas level, page 102: washer dryer.

• Page 103 • If you cannot reach a Winnebago Industries dealer or a local gas supplier, call the fire department. • Have the source of the leak corrected before using the LP gas system again.
• Page 104 SECTION 8 APPLIANCES & INTERIOR FEATURES you don’t smell gas, go to the next step. 5. Turn on LP gas main tank valve. 6. Turn on the water heater switch on the moni- tor panel. You may hear a clicking noise as the ignition element begins working.

Page 105: Motor Aid

Page 106: lp gas furnace (suburban), page 107: heat pump, page 108: central air conditioner, page 109: tv antenna, page 110: digital satellite television system, page 111: video selector system, page 112: exterior entertainment center, page 113: table and chairs.

• Page 114 SECTION 8 APPLIANCES & INTERIOR FEATURES WARNING Be sure all loose items are secured or stored properly while the vehicle is in motion. Possible overlooked items such as canned goods or small appli- ances on the countertop, cooking pans on the range, or free-standing furniture items can become danger- ous projectiles during a sudden stop.

Page 115: Rest Easy Multi-Position Lounge

Page 116: swivel glider lounge chair.

• Page 117 SECTION 8 APPLIANCES & INTERIOR FEATURES ® SLEEP NUMBER by Select Comfort NOTE: Before Traveling - If you plan to travel with your Sleep Number mattress into mountainous regions, either (1) tempo- rarily disconnect the mattress from the pump hose to allow air to escape or (2) partially deflate the mattress chamber.
• Page 118 SECTION 8 APPLIANCES & INTERIOR FEATURES Using Your Sleep Number Remote The buttons of the remote are contoured to be easily distinguished even in the dark if neces- sary. The ‘firmer’ button has a slight dome shape and the ‘softer’ button is slightly dished. STEP 3.
• Page 119 SECTION 8 APPLIANCES & INTERIOR FEATURES Altering Your Sleep Number: going through this process, contact a Select Unlike an innerspring mattress, a Sleep Comfort Customer Service Representative at 1- Number bed can be personalized at any time to 800-318-2231. Please have your Sleep Journal the changing condition of your body.

Page 120: Fresh Water Toilet

Page 121: slider windows, page 123: roof, page 124: care of stripes and decals, page 125: vinyl fabrics.

• Page 126 SECTION 9 CARE & MAINTENANCE Care of Ceiling Fabric response is the best, especially when done in con- While using your coach, your ceiling fabric junction with the proper cleaner from the type of may become soiled and require spot cleaning stain.

Page 127: Cabinetry

• Page 128 SECTION 9 CARE & MAINTENANCE Always use a cutting board rather than slicing Galley Sink - Care and Cleaning Instructions foods directly on your countertop. The underside The galley sink is made from a remarkably of one of your sink covers will provide an easily tough material and has been designed and engi- accessible cutting surface.

Page 129: Vinyl Wallboard

Page 130: engine top cover, page 131: suspension alignment and tire balance.

• Page 132 SECTION 9 CARE & MAINTENANCE The circuit breakers will pop outward if they are tripped. Simply push in to reset. Always replace plug-in type fuses with those of the same amperage size. Twist Locks to Remove Cover Automotive Fuse/Breaker (Behind “Hood” Panel) BAD FUSE GOOD FUSE PLUG-IN FUSES...

Page 133: Section 10: Storing Your Motor Home

• Page 134 SECTION 10 STORING YOUR MOTOR HOME NOTE: If your coach is equipped with the refrig- NOTE: Before using again the following erator ice maker option, the ice maker spring: water lines must also be drained. See “Winterizing the Ice Maker” on page •...
• Page 135 (A “blow-out” plug can sink drain and shower drain. This prevents be purchased at any Winnebago or Itasca any holding tank odors from entering the dealer. P/N 701705-01-000.) coach during storage.

Page 136: Rv Antifreeze Water Line Winterization Systems

Page 137: removal from storage.

• Page 138 SECTION 10 STORING YOUR MOTOR HOME and close flush valve. 6. Add a few gallons of water to the fresh water tank and check for leaks especially at junc- tions. Also make sure all hangers and sup- ports are securely in place. Sanitize the water system as outlined under “Disinfecting the Fresh Water System”...
• Page 139 INDEX 110-Volt AC System........6- 1 Compact Disc Changer ....... 2- 21 110-Volt Circuit Breakers......6- 4 Condenser Coils.......... 8- 17 110-Volt Receptacles ........6- 5 Connecting A Battery Charger ..... 3- 3 12-Volt Chassis Circuit Breakers ....6- 8 Connecting Jumper Cables ......
• Page 140 INDEX Fuel/Water Separator ........9- 8 OnePlace Systems Monitor Panel....8- 8 Options and Equipment ........ 0- 2 Gas/Electric Water Heater ......8- 10 Owner’s InfoCase ......... 0- 2 General Warnings ......... 1- 1 Generator Hourmeter ........6- 7 Power Converter System ......6- 3 Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter....
• Page 141 INDEX Suspension Alignment and Tire Balance..9- 9 Swivel Glider Lounge Chair ....... 8- 24 SWR Adjustment ........2- 22 Table and Chairs ......... 8- 21 Thermal Overload Protector ......6- 5 Tires .............. 9- 8 Trailer Wiring Connector......6- 11 Travel Tips ............
• Page 143 IMPORTANT SERIAL NUMBERS Motor Home (Coach): Year _________ Model ___________________ Serial _____________ Chassis: Make ___________________ Serial (VIN) ______________ Roof Air Conditioner: Brand ___________ Model ____________ Serial _ ___________ Furnace: Brand ___________ Model ____________ Serial _ ___________ Water Heater: Brand ___________ Model ____________ Serial _ ___________ Power Converter: Brand ___________ Model ____________ Serial _ ___________ 110-Volt Generator:...
• Page 144 MAINTENANCE RECORD Odometer Date Mileage Description of Service Cost...
• Page 145 FUEL & OIL RECORD Odometer Fuel Odometer Fuel Date Mileage Gal. Qts. Cost Date Mileage Gals. Qts. Cost...
• Page 146 FUEL & OIL RECORD Odometer Fuel Odometer Fuel Date Mileage Gal. Qts. Cost Date Mileage Gals. Qts. Cost...

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2001 Winnabego Journey charging problem

By kriscaughey , April 23, 2019 in Electrical

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Kriscaughey   .

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We are having a problem with coach batteries not charging when going down the road, if we turn on the generator the coach batteries will charge and we have no problem. Our unit is a 36DL with approx. 80,000 miles. Thanks for any help we can get to find and fix this problem. Additionally, our coach batteries were purchased new in October 2017. 

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kriscaughey,

Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

So, the alternator IS charging the chassis batteries but not the house batteries?

If so, you need to check your battery isolator-- may be diode-based or solenoid based. Follow the large gauge wire from the alternator B+ terminal to find the battery isolator.

richard5933   

Does that model charge house batteries from the chassis alternator? I've looked in the manual and don't see any mention of it.

https://winnebagoind.com/resources/manuals/pdfs/Operator2001/01Journey.pdf

Yup, on page 73 (Section 6, page 9) of that document it states that the house batteries are automatically charged by the alternator with the engine running.

Same as virtually all motorhomes.

Good catch - somehow I missed that.

That being the case, then I agree that the battery isolator would be a good place to start troubleshooting to see where the charge is/isn't going.

manholt   

wildebill308   

3 hours ago, manholt said: I only wish the reverse was in mine!  No engine battery charging, on shore or generator...

You should be able to fix that pretty easily.

So far, other than a trickle charger...nope!  I have to run a separate cord from batteries to a forward bay or a shore power post (if it has a 30), at home I have 50, 30, 20 so no problem. 

1 hour ago, manholt said: So far, other than a trickle charger...nope!  I have to run a separate cord from batteries to a forward bay or a shore power post (if it has a 30), at home I have 50, 30, 20 so no problem. 

Your problem is a great place to install something like the Xantrex Echo Charger - it will send up to 15 amps from your house system to your start bats whenever the house system is being charged.

jleamont   

Carl, I'm with Richard on this, have TCC install an Echo charger while its there, the chargers are around $100.00 and it will do it all for you.

rayin   

On 4/23/2019 at 11:05 AM, kriscaughey said: We are having a problem with coach batteries not charging when going down the road, if we turn on the generator the coach batteries will charge and we have no problem. Our unit is a 36DL with approx. 80,000 miles. Thanks for any help we can get to find and fix this problem. Additionally, our coach batteries were purchased new in October 2017. 

I don't think your MH has a BIRD for charging both batteries, but if it does have one, that is the first thing to test for proper operation, the BIRD is bypassed when the genset is running.

8 hours ago, RayIN said: I don't think your MH has a BIRD for charging both batteries, but if it does have one, that is the first thing to test for proper operation, the BIRD is bypassed when the genset is running.

Rayin, I believe you are getting these mixed up. The Bird type unit is for when you are parked and you want the generator or shore power to charge the chassis batteries.

dickandlois   

What is the Voltage reading of the engine alternator when the engine is reading? 

The Coach and chassis batteries both charge when the coach is connected to shore power or the generator is running - if I'm reading things correctly. Also when was the last time the alternator belt was serviced?

I Have Driven many miles with the generator powering the inverter /charger to supply the required 12 volts to keep the chassis system powered. The alternator sometimes becomes a pulley so the water pumps keeps things cool.

8 hours ago, jleamont said: Rayin, I believe you are getting these mixed up. The Bird type unit is for when you are parked and you want the generator or shore power to charge the chassis batteries.

Re-read  http://bacrallies.com/PDF/PDF Manuals/BIRD Diesel.pdf for the BIRD unit, the first and second paragraphs. Tell me where I am mixed up?

4 hours ago, RayIN said: Re-read  http://bacrallies.com/PDF/PDF Manuals/BIRD Diesel.pdf for the BIRD unit, the first and second paragraphs. Tell me where I am mixed up?

Hmm, my bad. Learn something new every day. 

12 hours ago, jleamont said: BIRD unit,

I figured out where I got my lines crossed, I was thinking of the echo charger. 

I just read through the spec on the B.I.R.D. unit. Seems like it's a bi-directional version of the Echo Charger with one big difference. The max output on the B.I.R.D. unit is 1 amp and not 15 amps like the Echo Charger. At 1 amp, it will take a long time to bring up a discharged battery bank, especially a large battery bank.

hermanmullins   

Like most, my Inverter/charger charges my house batteries when on Shore or Generator. My engine charges my house batteries AND chassis batteries when the engine is running.

To keep the chassis batteries charged when parked but on shore power,  I mounted a trickle charger and plugged it into my block heater plug. That is a 120 VAC plug, so only "hot" when on shore power or generator. When plugged into shore power or with the generator running it is maintaining  the chassis batteries. Haven't had an issue with the batteries in over three years. Trickle charger at WalMart $14.95 + tax and about an hour labor.

Attention Winnebago owners! You will find your specific electrical and plumbing schematics, and parts catalog links here. The only caveat is if someone has previously modified anything.

Not all motorhomes incorporate a BIRD relay into the charging system.

I Created a new topic for the discussion where it went from a 2001 Winnebago to a 2001 Holiday Rambler and moved all of the posts that belong to the HR coach to the new post so we can keep all of the pertinent information with the appropriate coach manufacture to help with a future search. 

Please add all further comments to the Holiday Rambler post if related, here is the link;

Thanks, Joe.

Appreciated-- and will be particularly appreciated by those with questions about the Winnebago electrical system.

five   

Carl....when plugged into shore power, your charger should charge the house batteries and when they get to 13.3 volts, the Big Boy should open and the chassis batteries should get charged.  When driving the same thing occurs except the batteries are reversed....the chassis batteries are charged, when they get to 13.3 volts, the Big Boy opens and the house batteries are charged.  Doesn't your Tradition work that way?

On 4/26/2019 at 7:06 AM, richard5933 said: I just read through the spec on the B.I.R.D. unit. Seems like it's a bi-directional version of the Echo Charger with one big difference. The max output on the B.I.R.D. unit is 1 amp and not 15 amps like the Echo Charger. At 1 amp, it will take a long time to bring up a discharged battery bank, especially a large battery bank.

I don't know where you read that about 1A charging but it is incorrect. The B.I.R.D. is an intelligent switch, not a charger. Mine will re-direct recharging my house batteries at the maximum charge rate(user set via Xantrex inverter/charger) of 50A in bulk mode if the need is present. I replaced it in 2013 because the house battery bank was not recharging as designed.

FWIW, that installation diagram is incomplete, at least for my MH.

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On this page:   Coach Battery Specification   Coach Battery Maintenance   Battery Box Maintenance   Coach Battery Isolation Solenoid   Additional Photos

Coach Battery Specification

The original Rialtas built from 1995-2000 came with only one coach battery as standard equipment.  But by 1999, most dealers were ordering their coaches from Winnebago with the second optional battery already installed.  Winnebago saw the handwriting on the wall and in 2001, the second battery became standard equipment.  Also at some point in time, Winnebago changed the source of the battery that they were purchasing from Interstate to the Trojan Battery.  The Trojan battery is a well-known and respectable name in RV and marine batteries and I suspect that the price of the Trojan was significantly higher that the Interstate.  I believe that Winnebago made a wise decision no doubt influenced by feedback from their customers. One thing to remember if you ever disconnect the cables is that these batteries are wired in parallel and not in series.  Positive goes to positive and negative goes to negative.  Two or more 12V batteries wired in parallel will always give 12V but a lot more amps.  Two or more 12V batteries wired in series will give 24V. The standard battery found in a Rialta is a 12 volt,  Deep Cycle, BCI Group 27, Trojan Number 27TMH.  Trojan's specifications for this battery are:

Reserve Capacity at 25 Amps = 200 minutes Reserve Capacity at 75 Amps = 51 minutes Cold Cranking Amps @ 0 ° F = 620 Amps Cranking Amps @ 32 ° F = 760 Amps 5 Hour Rate in Amp-Hours = 95 AH 20 Hour Rate in Amp-Hours = 115 AH Size = 12- 3/4" Length X 6-3/4"  Width X 9-3/4" Height Weight = 59 lbs. each (Yes, that's a total of 118 pounds of batteries you've been hauling around!)

A little bit of information about the specs is appropriate.  The "Cranking Amps" of this battery is meaningless because this battery is not designed to start the engine but rather supply power for various devices in the coach area.  Therefore, the important factor to consider is the "Reserve Capacity" which tells you how long the battery will last when you are pulling power out of it.  This is where a "Deep Cycle" battery will differ greatly from a normal "starting" battery.  If you check various competing brands of this Group 27 battery, you'll find that nearly all of them fail to meet the performance of the Trojan.  This doesn't mean that you can't or shouldn't use other brands but you must make a value decision based on the purchase price and the performance loss.  If you seldom do much dry camping or run the furnace all night long in cold climate areas without a shore line power source, then lower performing batteries may be right for you, especially considering that the Trojan battery tends to be somewhat pricey. One more thing about the size of the battery.  The BCI size number is "Group 27" but be aware that the exact size between various brands may change to a slight degree.  For some unknown reason, Winnebago has chosen to keep the left side compartment very tight for installing a Group 27 battery.  Its the length of the battery that causes problems in this left side area.  But the Trojan measuring 12-3/4" long will fit if you know how to accomplish the task.  Most people try to remove the right side of the battery first which is the easiest and that is when they run into trouble because with the right side lifted clear, the left side of the battery just won't clear past the top of the opening.  If you remove the left side first by keeping the battery all the way to right (towards the middle of the compartment), then tip the battery slightly so that the left side comes out first, you'll find that is just clears the opening and then the right side will follow.  Its almost opposite of what you'd logically think the sequence would be but the battery compartment will fit two size 27 batteries.  Re-installation must follow the same sequence: tip the battery so that the right side is in position and then slowly drop the left side which will just clear the top of the opening. If you purchase any other brand of a Group 27 battery, carefully measure the length of the battery.  If it is longer than 12-3/4", you may need to carefully cut off some un-needed plastic on one end of the battery in order to get it to fit into the left compartment of the battery box. BCI Group Size Chart How Lead Acid Batteries Work Exide Application Guide 2002 Exide Battery Specifications (April 2003)   [ return to top ]

Coach Battery Maintenance

Periodic maintenance of the coach batteries is necessary and the tasks generally fall into one of two categories: maintaining the level of the electrolyte or cleaning cables and connectors. You must insure that the electrolyte level never drops to a level where the plates are exposed to air.  Normally that isn't a problem because these deep cycle batteries have a huge level of electrolyte and can go for a long time without the need of adding water to bring the level up to spec.  You can easily check the levels with the batteries installed in position but a flashlight might be needed to see.  Use only distilled or de-ionized water to bring the level up to about 1/8" below the fill well of each cell. Cleaning the battery and cables is a little more intensive task but if you really want to keep things in tip-top shape then this extra step is worthwhile.  If you see corrosion on any of the battery cables or terminals, or any on the hold down metal straps, then some extra work is going to be needed.  The metal hold down straps are particularly vulnerable because they sit right on top of the battery where any acid that is prevalent in that area will attack the steel and cause the corrosion. I suggest that each battery be completely removed so that you can hose down the battery with a garden hose to insure that you rinse off any debris or acid on the exterior surfaces of the battery.  At the same time, you can clean off the metal hold down straps by sanding the corrosion off and repainting as necessary.  Before you re-install the batteries, check and clean the cable terminals until you see bright shiny metal.  On the areas where the copper stands of the cable are crimped into the connector, a small dap of petroleum jelly will protect the exposed copper.  As long as the batteries are out, you may wish to take a good look at the battery box maintenance . All of the battery cables in this area are "custom" sizes and were made by Winnebago.  If you have a cable that needs replacement, take the old cable to a large, well-stocked auto supply store and see if they can match it to a stock item that is very close in size.  An exact match is not necessary and you can easily accommodate a cable that is an inch or two longer but avoid getting a replacement cable that is shorter than the original. The Trojan Battery Company has an informative brochure about Deep Cycle Battery Maintenance in PDF format (467K) that you should download and read thoroughly. [ return to top ]

Battery Box Maintenance

Whenever performing some specialized maintenance on the batteries that may require you to temporarily  remove the batteries, this would be the best time for some observations to be made and maintenance of the battery box area to be accomplished. With both batteries removed, you will probably find some rust and corrosion occurring in the black sheet metal.  You will also note some vent holes or notches in the lower corners of the box along with some un-used large cable holes in the upper sides (perhaps used for air vents.)  All of these openings mean one thing: the battery box is directly exposed to outside elements such as water, slush, and salt in winter driving areas.  All of these elements will eventually cause rust of the sheet metal battery box. You may also note areas along the sides of the box near where the top of the battery would be that have corrosion on those areas.  This is probably due to out-gassing from the battery which is a normal process but it severely corrodes the sheet metal. I suggest taking a garden hose into the inside of the coach and first thoroughly rising out the battery box.  You may want to cover the solenoid with a plastic baggy temporarily.  After rinsing, dump baking soda all over the bottom of the box and especially on any areas that are corroded.  Allow this powder to soak up a little water to become a paste and then use a stiff brush to scrub the paste mixture into any corroded areas.  I suggest the use of an old toothbrush.  Pay particular attention to the bottom of the box where there are sheet metal seams.  Add a little more water to the paste mixture to insure that it soaks into the seams where it will neutralize any acid on the surface of the metal.  Now use the garden hose to thoroughly rinse all traces of the baking soda mixture out through the bottom holes. Allow the water in the battery box to dry thoroughly.  Note that it may take several hours or overnight for water trapped in the sheet metal seams to dry so remember this if you will be re-painting as hidden areas that are still moist will not receive any paint.  Use a wire brush or emery cloth to grind or scrape away all traces of the corrosion until you see bright shiny metal.  Use a spray paint primer on these shiny metal areas.  When the primer is dry, use a black spray enamel to match the original paint.  One can should be enough to completely repaint the battery box.  Pay particular attention to the sheet metal seams at the bottom and any other areas of corrosion.  It is difficult to spray the sides of the box since it is so narrow but several light coats are much better than one heavy coat which will end up running and sagging.  It might be a good idea to set up some drop cloths around the carpet and seats otherwise the black overspray will remodel your interior! In spite of your best efforts, every few years this battery box will be corroded again and you'll need to repeat the entire procedure. :-( [ return to top ]

Coach Battery Isolation Solenoid

If you find yourself in the middle of a trip with coach batteries that aren't getting charged while you drive all day, the problem may be the isolation solenoid which is found in the coach battery box.  A simple fix to try is to tap it lightly with a solid object such as a hammer after the engine is running.  This might be enough shock to close the contacts so the batteries will get charged.

The function of this device is to make sure the coach batteries are isolated from the engine battery while you are camped without the engine running.  When the engine is running, this device closes contacts and enables the engine alternator to charge the coach batteries.

When the ignition key is turned to the on position, a relay is activated by the vehicle battery and sends 12 volts to the solenoid coil.  If you listen carefully you can hear the solenoid click.  Now, all three batteries, the vehicle battery and the two coach batteries are connected together.  This scenario happens each the time the key is operated when the vehicle battery is good.  When the vehicle battery is down to the point where it will not engage the solenoid or run the starter, pressing the overhead auxiliary start switch will power the solenoid from the coach batteries once again connecting all three batteries in parallel, assuming a reasonably good charge on the coach batteries. Even with a vehicle battery that does not have enough charge to run the starter, the solenoid might still be heard clicking when the key is turned to the on position.  The reason for this is that the Camdec solenoid (Winnebago OEM solenoid) has only an 8.0 volt pull in voltage and a 2.5 volt hold voltage.  If this is the case, the auxiliary start switch may never come into play.  This is one of the evils of such a system.  You may never know that your vehicle battery has discharged partially to the point of not being able to run the starter but having enough charge to operate the solenoid.  The wiring is such that the solenoid will operate when the key is in the on position so that the alternator will charge the coach battery when the engine was running.  But, when the key is turned to the start position, the solenoid will drop out. Another thought. Even though the solenoid can be heard to click, it does not necessarily mean that the main contacts are conducting current.  Crud buildup on the contacts may preclude current flow.  Most solenoid failures are due to failure of the main contacts not the operating coil.  I taken apart a failed solenoid and the contacts where quite dirtied up with carbon.  I cleaned them up and reassembled it and it worked.  Of course, I had no way of resealing the unit so I tossed it. I hope this helps.  Any questions, give a yell. Richard Cox

There have been some problems reported with this solenoid and apparently the internal contacts get burned or badly pitted enough that the current flow from the alternator to the coach batteries gets interrupted.  The solenoid is sealed and can not be repaired.  Such conditions call for a replacement.  Installation is very simple but remember you are working around the positive cables of the battery so you should first disconnect the negative cable at the battery.  By doing so, you'll avoid the shower of sparks that could occur if you allow the red cable or your wrench to touch ground.  A shower of sparks in close proximity to batteries is not a good thing especially if there is an accumulation of hydrogen gas!

Electrical Troubleshooting:

With the engine running use a V-Ohm meter to read the voltage on either side of the solenoid.  If it is 13-14 VDC on the engine side and 12-13 volts on the battery side, the alternator is not charging the house batteries.

Now turn off the engine and plug in to shore power.  You should read 13-14 VDC on the coach battery side and 12-13 VDC on the engine side.  This indicates that the coach batteries are being charged from shore power and the engine battery is isolated.

Start the engine and read from terminal to terminal across the solenoid.  If everything is working properly you should read less than .1 VDC.  If you read between .1 -1 VDC the solenoid is bad.

Specifications: Must be "continuous duty", single pole, single throw, normally open contacts, 3-terminal, 80-110 Amps, 12 VDC.  Typical costs start at $30.

The original Winnebago part number is 008-188-01-000 and they used either a Camdec (discontinued) or Trombetta ( www.trombetta.com ) brand solenoid.  Another that many prefer is the Cole-Hersee 24213, with contacts rated at 200 amps continuous.  They seem to hold up very well (mine has been in use for over 8 years.)  These require you to run a wire from one of the small terminals to ground.  Most connect it to one of the mounting bolts.  Most large auto parts stores should have something in stock that meet the specifications, just be sure it's rated for continuous duty.  Another source but a somewhat pricey one would be any RV dealership.

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Additional Photos

Note- All of the following photos depict certain actions while changing or maintaining the coach batteries.  Some are taken only to provide documentation of hose and wire hookups so that re-assembly can be done without guesswork.  All photos are in high resolution which means your web browser may automatically resize the image so that it fits your screen resolution.  If it does resize the photo, you can click the resize gadget to instruct your browser to view it in full resolution.