hotel restaurant troglodyte tours

Demeure de la Vignole, Hôtel***

3 impasse Marguerite d'Anjou 49730 TURQUANT

Prêts à vivre une expérience hors du commun dans un cadre d'exception en Val de Loire.

Convivialité et charme vous attendent à La Demeure de la Vignole, hôtel*** de caractère avec piscine Troglodytique, proche de Saumur ! Au cœur du Parc Naturel Régional Loire-Anjou-Touraine, à égale distance de Tours et Angers, notre hôtel Logis vous réserve une étonnante surprise... Accroché au coteau de Loire dans un ancien village troglodytique privé, il est installé dans une élégante demeure de caractère du XVIIe siècle en tuffeau surplombant la Loire. De pittoresques caves troglodytiques du XIIe servent d'écrin à 4 des 11 chambres, mais aussi à l'appartement, à la salle de séminaires et réception, à la surprenante piscine et à la salle fitness de l'hôtel.

Le tout forme un superbe ensemble très atypique alliant le charme et l'authenticité d'un autre temps tout en étant résolument ouvert à la modernité avec le confort d'équipements récents. Proche de l’abbaye de Fontevraud et des châteaux de Montsoreau,  Brézé et Saumur, ce site insolite est idéal pour partir à la découverte des châteaux et de la vallée de la Loire.

La piscine troglodytique de la Demeure de la Vignole, à 10 km de Saumur

Un moment rare dans un environnement unique !

Loin de l'agitation, dans le joli village de caractère de Turquant au coeur de cet exceptionnel site troglodytique préservé, vous êtes bien, détendu... tout simplement...

Pour vous accompagner dans ce moment de quiétude, nous avons tout prévu.

Après une bonne journée de marche ou de vélo sur les bords de la Loire, vous apprécierez un moment de détente dans notre piscine chauffée à 28°. Creusée dans la roche, elle coule majestueusement à l'intérieur de cette dernière et se dévoile de quelques mètres à l'extérieur. Un sas de fermeture garantit sa température par saison froide. Attenante à la piscine, l'ancienne salle d'extraction de la pierre de Tuffeau qui servit également de salle de pressoir du raisin, a laissé la place aujourd'hui à la salle de détente qui propose quelques appareils de fitness et de gymnastique douce.

Services & Équipements

De l'hôtel demeure de la vignole.

Horaires de l'Hôtel

Arrivée à partir de 15h00

Départ au plus tard 11h30

Demeure de la Vignole, Hôtel****

3 impasse Marguerite d'Anjou 49730 TURQUANT

Are you ready to live an exceptional experience in an exceptional setting in the Loire Valley

Conviviality and charm await you at La Demeure de la Vignole, a charming hotel with a cave pool, near Saumur!

In the heart of the Loire-Anjou-Touraine Regional Natural Park , equidistant from Tours and Angers , our Logis de France hotel reserves an amazing surprise for you ...

Hanging onto the hillside of the Loire in a former private troglodyte village , it is set in an elegant 17th-century Tuscan-style mansion overlooking the Loire. The picturesque 12th century troglodytic cellars serve as a showcase for 4 of the 11 rooms, as well as the gîte, the seminar and reception room, the hotel's amazing swimming pool  and fitness room .

The whole forms a superb very unusual ensemble combining the charm and the authenticity of another era whilst being resolutely open to the modernity with all the comfort of recent equipments. Close to the Abbey of Fontevraud and the castles of Montsoreau and Saumur , this unusual site is ideal for exploring the castles and the Loire Valley .

The troglodyte pool of La Demeure de la Vignole, 10km from Saumur

A rare moment in a unique environment.

Far from the hustle and bustle, in the pretty character-filled village of of Turquant in the heart of this exceptional preserved troglodyte site, you are quite simply feeling fine and relaxed ...

To accompany you in this moment of tranquility, we have thought of everything for you.

After a full day of walking or cycling on the banks of the Loire, you will appreciate a moment of relaxation in our heated swimming pool at 27 °. Carved into the rock, it flows majestically inside and exposes itself a few meters outside. A air lock chamber guarantees its temperature in cold weather.

Adjoining the swimming pool, the former extraction room of the Tuffeau stone, which also served as a grape press room, and which is replaced today by the relaxation room which offers some fitness equipment and soft gymnastics.

Services & Equipment

Hotel demeure de la vignole.

Hotel opening hours

Check in from 15:00 to 20:00

Departure no later than 11.30 am

We are closing as every year from the 13th of  November 2022 to the 3rd of February 2023 included. The reception is still open and we answer to...

• +33(0)2 47 45 31 25
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• Disponibilités

Route des granges 37190 AZAY LE RIDEAU

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Chambre Grand Troglo

Hôtel Troglododo vue du ciel

Hotel de charme à Azay-le-Rideau en Touraine

Chambre Soutine

Chambre Petit Troglo

Un hôtel atypique ... un séjour insolite ... Goûtez à la douceur de vivre en Touraine

À quelques mètres du magnifique château d'azay-le-rideau.

C'est au cœur d'un site d'exception, au calme d'une ancienne ferme troglodytique de vignerons des XVIe et XVIIe siècles que vous aurez la chance de séjourner en vallée de la Loire .

Niché à flanc de colline dominant la vallée de l'Indre et exposé plein sud, l' hôtel Troglododo classé trois étoiles a été magnifiquement rénové pour le plaisir de vous offrir tout à la fois confort et dépaysement.

Son caractère unique et chaleureux ne vous laissera pas indifférent.

Derrière l'élégante façade en pierres calcaires dorment 14 jolies chambres dont 6 troglodytiques. A l'extérieur, un petit chemin de desserte et des escaliers en bois vous mènent de terrasses en terrasses ouvertes sur un océan de verdure.

Informations utiles

   plateaux-repas 15€.

Nous vous offrons la possibilité de vous restaurer le soir grâce à nos plateaux-repas faits maison au tarif de  15 euros par personne(nous consulter)

 Le menu est unique,  et pris en chambre. 

Nous avons aussi à votre disposition des  vins de la région pour agrémenter votre plateau.

   Nos services & équipements

• 2 bornes de recharge pour voiture électrique
• Accueil PMR
• Wifi gratuite
• Parking privé et gratuit
• Plateaux-repas servis en chambre ( nous consulter )
• Piscine chauffée ouverte de Mai  à septembre selon la météo
• Jolie vue sur la vallée

Les chambres

Autour de l'hôtel

Conditions & Horaires

Réservations par téléphone : ​    06 78 80 31 75

Chambre Troglo

Jolie chambre troglodytique, confortable, d'environ 30 m² pour

2 personnes

Suite Troglo

Jolie suite troglodytique pleine de charme, de plus de 50 m²,  pouvant accueillir jusqu'à 4personnes.

La tufolière.

Nichée tout proche du centre de Rochecorbon,  anciennement Vaudanum, joli village historique, ainsi qu'à 50 m des bords de Loire

Loire valley.

Situées en plein coeur du Val de Loire, classé patrimoine mondial de l'UNESCO (Loire Valley), Les Troglos de la Tufolière est un endroit idéal pour visiter la région.

Livre d'or.

Allez parcourir les gentils mots laissé par mes clients  !

Souvenirs, souvenirs...

Que du bonheur .

48 hours of troglodyte style around Saumur

We descend into the bowels of a castle.

Voir cette publication sur Instagram Une publication partagée par Château de Brézé (@chateaudebreze) le 18 Août 2019 à 12 :14 PDT

At Brézé, one château can hide another! Who would have guessed that this monument is home to a troglodytic network of almost 4 kilometres of underground galleries and chambers? A veritable castle beneath the castle, dug to a depth of 9 m, with everything in place to resist the invaders. There are stables, a kitchen, skylights and an underground bakery with a bread oven that is still in use, as well as one of the largest wine presses in France, testimony to the château's winemaking activity.

Château de Brézé (External link)

We're eating our way through a mushroom farm

At this quarry in Montsoreau, the extraction of tuffeau - the limestone used in the construction of the Loire châteaux - has been replaced by mushroom cultivation. The old galleries, dug into the hillside and overlooking the Loire, are now home to a fun and educational tour of the site's mining past and its mushroom farm. It's a great way to learn all about the cultivation of button mushrooms, oyster mushrooms, pholiotes and shiitakes, which you can sample before or after your visit to the Saut aux Loups restaurant. Filled with rillettes, andouille sausage, salmon, snails or goat's cheese and baked in the oven, they are transformed into 'galipettes', one of the local specialities.

Le Saut aux Loups (External link)

Turquant is the place to be

Voir cette publication sur Instagram Une publication partagée par Saumur Val de Loire (@saumurvaldeloire) le 26 Nov. 2018 à 11 :39 PST

Let yourself be seduced by this small village in the Saumur region, carved out of the rock between mills and vineyards. A signposted discovery trail takes you back in time to discover the troglodyte way of life. Here you can learn about the history of "pommes tapées", a Saumur speciality that was revived in the 1980s. After a day full of discoveries, pack your bags and head for one of the troglodytic rooms at Demeure de la Vignole, whose rock-cut swimming pool promises a well-deserved moment of relaxation!

Turquant (External link) Demeure de la Vignole (External link)

Unlocking the Mystery of the Faluns

10 million years ago, the people of Doué-la-Fontaine had their feet in water. But not just any water: that of the sea, which when it receded left the falun, a limestone rock that was mined in the 19th century. You can discover this maritime and mining past in the old quarries on the Perrières site with the Mystery of the Falun, an enchanting scenography combining science and poetry. In these subterranean cathedrals 15 to 20 metres high, you'll be surrounded by sharks, sea urchins, manta rays and other jellyfish. A magical experience!

Le Mystère des Faluns (External link)

A feast of fouées

Voir cette publication sur Instagram Une publication partagée par Saumur Val de Loire (@saumurvaldeloire) le 18 Juil. 2018 à 11 :04 PDT

Do you know what fouées are? Also known as fouaces, these round or square loaves baked in a wood-fired oven were the troglodytes' meal. You can eat them in troglodyte restaurants in and around Saumur. Served hot, just out of the oven, they are garnished with rillettes, goat's cheese or mushrooms. A convivial, gourmet experience in an original setting.

We visit a troglo zoo

Voir cette publication sur Instagram Une publication partagée par Bioparc - Zoo Doué la Fontaine (@bioparcdedoue) le 22 Sept. 2017 à 3 :26 PDT

Rhinoceroses, birds, okapis, leopards... In all, almost 1,200 animals inhabit this zoo, which is unique in the world because it is dug into the rock and dedicated to the protection of endangered species. As you make your way through the galleries, tunnels and quarries, you pass from one world to another, each ecosystem represented in its own space.

Doué-la-Fontaine Biopark (External link)

Find out more :

Discover the troglodyte sites around Saumur (External link)

Plan your stay in the Pays de la Loire region (External link)

Planning your stay in the Loire Valley (External link)

Read also : Châteaux of the Loire Valley: off the beaten track and The Chateau of Chambord as you will (probably) never see it

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Take a trip amongst the gorgeous castles of the Loire Valley

Family travel

5 good reasons to cycle together in the Loire Valley

Living cultural heritage

The Royal Abbey of Fontevrau, an "ideal city" for modern times.

LES RESTAURANTS TROGLO

• Destination Sud Val de Loire
• LES TROGLOS
• les restaurants troglo

Les sites troglodytiques sont une particularité en Touraine et en Val de Loire. Principalement exploités en cave à vin pour élever et conserver dans des conditions idéales les vins du Val de Loire : Gamay, Cabernet, Côt, Sauvignon… Certains ont vu leur rôle détourné d’une manière différente.

Il est possible par exemple de dormir dans un troglo, hébergement ô combien agréable et insolite et il est également possible entre Beauval et Chenonceau de dîner dans d’anciennes caves de tuffeau. Des restaurants emplis de la chaleur des feux de cheminée et de celle de leurs propriétaires, heureux de vous accueillir en toute simplicité et convivialité.

TROGLODYTES EN VAL DE LOIRE

DE BEAUVAL A CHENONCEAU

• Europe >
• France >
• Centre-Val de Loire

Travel bucket list idea:

Troglodyte Loire

Loire Valley, France

The mysterious but fascinating troglodyte world of the Loire is the fascinating underside of all those lovely white stone chateaux.

Thousands of kilometres of tunnels – originally dug out of the soft, underlying, tufa strata as part of Middle Age stone quarries – became chapels, houses and farms to create the largest troglodyte region in Europe. Some are still lived in, while others have been converted into hotels and restaurants, dramatic wine cellars (providing ideal conditions for storing wine), mushroom farms and even a zoo.

Recommendations

Bioparc zoo.

Doue-la-Fontaine, Pays de la Loire, France

The troglodyte houses more than 70 species in enclosures dug out of the surrounding rock, creating dramatic enclosures. Open daily February-October.

Adult price: £20

Best for ages 4+

Bouvet-Ladubay cellars

Saumur, Pays de la Loire, France

These sculpted troglodyte caves offer an interesting blend of wine tasting, culture and history. The cellars here, open daily for tastings, are part of a historic 5-mile-long complex of underground galleries, which include an unusual ‘underground cathedral’.

Adult price: £5

Best for ages 18+

Duration: 2 hours

Chateau du Breze

Beneath this attractive Renaissance and neo-Gothic chateau is a remarkable 9th-century fortress, a troglodyte labyrinth complete with drawbridge, stables, and guardrooms. The chateau is also known for excellent wines, which you can taste in Les Caves de la Comtesse de Colbert in the chateau grounds.

Adult price: £10

Le Saut aux Loups mushroom farm

This series of cool, dank caverns in Montsoreau is said to have once been inhabited by loups (wolves), then exploited as quarries, before being turned into a champignonnière (mushroom farm). Button, oyster and shitake mushrooms are cultivated here today.

Best for ages 13+

Les Caves de La Genevraie

Louresse-Rochemenier, Pays de la Loire, France

This troglodyte restaurant serves delicious traditional fouaces , circular flatbreads, filled with mushrooms and cheese, and served in caves used as refuges during the 16th-century Wars of Religion.

Les Goupillieres

Azay-le-Rideau, Centre-Val de Loire, France

Not many tourists know about this long-forgotten troglodyte village, hidden away in a wooded valley. You can tour the three abandoned farms, and children can pet the farm animals. Forty-minute guided tours are available by advanced request.

Adult price: £6

Duration: 3-4 hours

A day in Saumur

A postcard-perfect, medieval town famed for its troglodyte wine cellars (filled with excellent wines) and majestic hilltop chateau.

Troglodyte village of Rochemenier

The most complete and extensive troglodyte site in the Loire Valley, a museum of two former farms with stables and cowsheds, twenty furnished rooms and a soaring 13th-century chapel, all dug down into the tufa rock.

Adult price: £4

Getting there & doing it

Most of the sites are located in and around the towns of Saumur and Doue-la-Fontaine or around Azay-le-Rideau. No booking is required – you can just show up – but if you want a guided tour in English, sometimes you need to email ahead. 

The temperature in the caves remains a constant 12C all year round – pleasantly refreshing on hot summer days – but you’ll need a sweater.   

When to do it

Most sites close  in  January  and  February and sometimes November  and  February, so check  timings  before you  plan or   go.

Destination guides

Destination guides including or relevant to this experience

Loire Valley

Northern France’s beautiful UNESCO-listed valley, home to heart-stoppingly beautiful historic chateaux, authentic village life, world-class wines and fascinating troglodytes.

Trog'Love: Balnéo détente dans une troglodyte

65 Avenue de la Tranchée, 37100 Tours, France – Excellent location – show map

Cleanliness

Value for money

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Le lieu est très bien pensé et organisé. Tout est très propre et confortable. La situation est idéale en hyper centre. Décoré avec goût. Un petit Havre de paix

La chambre, l'ambiance, la baignoire jaccuzzi, le calme des alentours, la proximité du centre ville

L'ambiance, le décors tout était parfait pour ce petit cadre idyllique

L'ambiance très spéciale du lieu, la balneo très appréciée, le très joli pliage des serviettes sur notre lit a l’arrivée (;-))!

la localisation proche du centre et le fait que le logement soit atypique

La chambre dépaysante, très jolie et le spa pour passer un séjour très agréable

Tout était parfait, concept très original avec le sens du détail aussi bien pour l'accueil (petits bonbons, carafe d'eau fraîche.....) que pour la déco ( bougies, serviettes en forme de cygnes, leds, pétales.....)

Tout était parfait. Ne pas se fier à l'aspect extérieur de la bâtisse. Tout est prévu à l'intérieur du logement. Rien à redire.

Tout est parfait, décoration soignée, ambiance propreté.. nickel!

le jacuzzi top la chambre insolite le mobilier était neuf et propre

Trog'Love: Balnéo détente dans une troglodyte Reserve now

Lock in a great price for Trog'Love: Balnéo détente dans une troglodyte – rated 9.3 by recent guests!

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• Entire apartment
• 377 ft² size
• Air conditioning
• Non-smoking rooms

Trog'Love: Balnéo détente dans une troglodyte is a recently renovated apartment in Tours, near Hotel Goüin Museum. The air-conditioned accommodation is a 19-minute walk from Basilica of Saint Martin. The accommodation features a hot tub, free Wifi throughout the property, and bicycle parking. Featuring a terrace with inner courtyard views, this apartment also comes with a flat-screen TV, a well-equipped kitchen with a dishwasher, an oven, and a microwave, as well as 1 bathroom with a hot tub and a hair dryer. For added privacy, the accommodation has a private entrance and soundproofing. Vinci International Congress Center is 1.2 miles from the apartment, while Tours Train Station is 2.6 miles from the property. The nearest airport is Tours Loire Valley Airport, 2.5 miles from Trog'Love: Balnéo détente dans une troglodyte.

Couples in particular like the location – they rated it 9.6 for a two-person trip.

Distance in property description is calculated using © OpenStreetMap

Property Highlights

Top Location: Highly rated by recent guests (9.5)

Saved to 94 lists

Availability

Select dates to see this property's availability and prices

Property practices

Categories:, see what guests loved the most:.

Amenities of Trog'Love: Balnéo détente dans une troglodyte Great facilities! Review score, 9.4

• Dining table
• Coffee machine
• Kitchenware
• Electric kettle
• Refrigerator
• Wardrobe or closet
• Toilet paper
• Private Bathroom
• Dining area
• Sitting area
• Streaming service (like Netflix)
• Flat-screen TV
• Socket near the bed
• Hardwood or parquet floors
• Private entrance
• Ironing facilities
• Entire unit wheelchair accessible
• Entire unit located on ground floor
• Outdoor dining area
• Hot tub/Jacuzzi
• Tea/Coffee maker
• Inner courtyard view
• Private apartment in building
• Smoke-free property
• Soundproof rooms
• Smoke alarms

See availability House rules

From 6:00 PM to 11:00 PM

You need to let the property know what time you'll be arriving in advance.

Until 11:00 AM

Cancellation/ prepayment

Cancellation and prepayment policies vary according to apartment type. Please enter the dates of your stay and check what conditions apply to your preferred room.

Damage policy

If you cause damage to the property during your stay, you could be asked to pay up to EUR 1000 after check-out, according to this property's Damage Policy .

Children & Beds

Child policies

Children not allowed.

Crib and extra bed policies

There's no capacity for cribs at this property.

This property doesn't offer extra beds.

Age restriction

The minimum age for check-in is 18

Payments by Booking.com

Booking.com takes your payment for this stay on behalf of the property, but make sure you have cash for any extras once you get there.

Smoking is not allowed.

Parties/events are not allowed

Quiet hours

Guests need be quiet between 10:00 PM and 8:00 AM.

Pets are not allowed.

The fine print Must-know information for guests at this property

This property does not accommodate bachelor(ette) or similar parties.

Quiet hours are between 22:00:00 and 08:00:00.

If you cause damage to the property during your stay, you could be asked to pay up to € 1,000 after check-out, according to this property's Damage Policy .

FAQs about Trog'Love: Balnéo détente dans une troglodyte

How much does it cost to stay at trog'love: balnéo détente dans une troglodyte.

The prices at Trog'Love: Balnéo détente dans une troglodyte may vary depending on your stay (e.g. dates, hotel's policy etc.). To see prices, enter your dates.

What are the check-in and check-out times at Trog'Love: Balnéo détente dans une troglodyte?

Check-in at Trog'Love: Balnéo détente dans une troglodyte is from 6:00 PM, and check-out is until 11:00 AM.

How many guests can sleep at Trog'Love: Balnéo détente dans une troglodyte?

For more detailed info, check the accommodation option(s) breakdown on this page.

Does Trog'Love: Balnéo détente dans une troglodyte have a hot tub for its guests?

Yes, there's a hot tub. You can find out more about this and the other facilities at Trog'Love: Balnéo détente dans une troglodyte on this page.

How many bedrooms does have Trog'Love: Balnéo détente dans une troglodyte have?

How far is trog'love: balnéo détente dans une troglodyte from the center of tours.

Trog'Love: Balnéo détente dans une troglodyte is 1 miles from the center of Tours. All distances are measured in straight lines. Actual travel distances may vary.

Does Trog'Love: Balnéo détente dans une troglodyte have a terrace?

Yes, there are options at this property that have a terrace. You can find out more about this and the other facilities at Trog'Love: Balnéo détente dans une troglodyte on this page.

What is there to do at Trog'Love: Balnéo détente dans une troglodyte?

The best of tours, convention centers.

• Parc des Expositions Tours
• Vinci International Congress Center
• Musée des Beaux-Arts de Tours
• Olivier Debré Contemporary Art Centre

Golf Courses

• Touraine Golf Course

Institutions

• Touraine Chamber of Commerce
• Indre-et-Loire Prefecture
• Tours Town Hall
• Tours High Court
• Chateau de Plessis-lès-Tours
• Tours Cathedral
• Basilica of Saint-Julien
• Château de Villandry
• Basilica of Saint Martin
• Château de Cinq Mars
• Château de Tours
• Hotel Goüin Museum
• Ronsard House
• Musée du Compagnonnage
• Museum of Natural History of Tours
• Prebendes d'Oe Gardens

Popular Areas

• Place Plumereau

Shopping Areas

• Les Halles de Tours Market
• Tours Loire Valley Airport (TUF) 2.7 miles
• Arnage Airport (LME) 43.9 miles
• Angers Loire Airport (ANE) 47.8 miles

Train Stations

• Saint-Pierre-des-Corps Train Station
• Tours Train Station

Most Popular Cities

• Chenonceaux
• Chambray-lès-Tours

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Osez les troglodytes et les insolites

Accueil › Préparer › Trouver son hébergement › Osez les troglodytes et les insolites

D’après votre dernier test de personnalité, vous êtes plutôt original, voire un brin aventurier ? Choisissez votre futur terrain de jeu, sous terre, dans un arbre ou… au milieu de la Loire !

Retrouvez ci-dessous nos coups de cœur.

Pour accéder à la liste exhaustive des hébergements en Touraine, cliquez ici .

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Parc résidentiel de loisir

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Troglo Gîte

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• OUR VINEYARDS
• Your experiences
• EXPERT ADVICE

• Loire Valley

Vineyards and troglodytes of the Saumur region

A journey to discover at your own pace.

For your visit to the Loire Valley we’ve designed an excellent 90 km wine tourism car tour to explore at your own pace.

The route includes: châteaux, troglodyte villages, royal abbeys, windmills, wine lodges and wonderful cellars. Only a tailor-made tour will suffice for the genuine culture seeker. The loop begins and ends in Saumur and winds its way through the landscape of the UNESCO World Heritage Site Loire Valley. During your tour, it would be remiss of us not to suggest a stop at Château de Brézé, which conceals Europe’s largest underground fortress behind its stone walls, and the small Cités de Caractère (Cities of Character) of Montreuil-Bellay, Montsoreau and Chênehutte-Trèves-Cunault. You might be a determined culture seeker but you’re first and foremost a lover of wine. You should therefore feel at home in this exceptional winegrowing terroir, whether meeting winemakers or in one of the many Saumur-Champigny, Saumur Brut or Cabernet d’Anjou tastings on offer.

Bons plan à proximité :

Le Fontevraud : Fontrevraud, in the Abbaye Royale. Michelin-starred restaurant in the abbey's cloister. Creative and contemporary cuisine by Thibaut Ruggeri with an emphasis on local produce and kitchen garden herbs and vegetables. Wine menu showcasing the best of Loire Valley wines. Restaurant of exceptional quality.

La demeure de la Vignole : Turquant, 10 km from Saumur. Charming **** hotel in an elegant 17th century building, situated in an old and private troglodyte village. 11 comfortable and stylish rooms (20 to 70 m2) including four in recesses. Stunning troglodyte swimming pool and view of the Loire river. Chic and stunning hotel.

Informations: +33 2 41 40 20 60

Route des vins

“Food and wine” trip in Berry Centre-Loire

1, 2, 3… Provence!

Loire Valley VINEYARD : DISCOVER ALSO

Hold your corporate seminar surrounded by vines!

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A Tour of France’s Cave Homes

In France’s Loire Valley, domesticated cave dwellings, known as troglodyte homes, offer a history as rich as the region’s chateaus

Kristin Ohlson

I tip the torchlight and examine a wall in my hotel room. From a distance, the wall looks like vanilla frosting roughly applied. Up close, I see nuggets of caramel-colored stone, faint brown streaks…and an oyster shell. The wall before me is 100 million years old, the raw edge of a cave scraped into a cliff above the Loire River. The oyster was a much earlier guest here, a fossil left from the sea that once covered this part of France and left behind a thick bed of white stone called tuffeau.

Many buildings in the Loire Valley are constructed from this stone. On a trip to France four years ago, I stayed in an elegantly restored farmhouse near Tours, its walls made of tuffeau blocks, stacked like irregular sugar cubes. The farmers of long ago probably dug their own tuffeau. It’s just under the surface--unplanted fields gleam with tuffeau churned to pebbles by the plows. However, the serious quarrying was for the signature chateaus and other monumental architecture of the Loire Valley.

At the time, I was among friends who wanted to visit all the chateaus. The first few exhausted my taste for opulence. Then, near the chateau in Amboise, I noticed caves in the cliff, some with brightly painted front doors, windows, shutters and flower boxes. As we drove around the Loire Valley, I spied more of these domesticated caves, some with chimneys thrusting through scruffy vegetation at the tops of cliffs or new facades and courtyards. Oh yes, someone finally explained: after widespread quarrying of the tuffeau began in the 11th century and created cavities in the hills and plains, people moved in. Some to escape warfare, others because the caves made convenient, low-rent dwellings. Until the early 20th century, many people lived in these so-called troglodyte homes. Entire villages were underground. Some people still live in the caves, I was told, and others are finding new uses for them. From that moment on, I was determined to find my way inside.

Three years later, I finally found my entrée to this version of the French underground. I returned to France at the end of last summer to let Robert and Annette Bonnell, computer programmers from Berkeley, California who now live in a cave home in Saumur, guide me through the Loire Valley’s mysterious underside.

Before reaching Saumur, I stopped in the village of Rochecorbon for a night at the luxurious Les Hautes Roches Hotel. Twelve of the hotel’s guest rooms are in a honeycomb of cliff caves where monks from the nearby Marmoutier Abbey hid during the 16th century Wars of Religion. No one at the hotel could tell me much more about the monks, but it was difficult to imagine an atmosphere of terror there. Softly illuminated by the light from a glass-paned door, my room was womblike, the silence of the tuffeau mysterious and absolute. I knew the monks hid in deeper tunnels, that my room likely occupied only the mouth of one of their caves. In wakeful moments, I imagined their ghosts stirring deep inside the stone.

In the morning, I headed toward Saumur on old highway N 952, along the Loire. An hour or so later, I arrived in Saumur—not just where Bonnells live, but the epicenter of troglo life in France. There are hundreds of miles of caves in and around Saumur, some bored into the hillsides, some under the plains. Most are abandoned. Others have been revamped as troglo hotels, restaurants, museums, artist galleries, wineries, farms for mushrooms, silkworms and snails, a rose water distillery and a disco. Even a troglo zoo, where large animals live in open quarries and enclosed caves display bats and other lovers of dim light.

The Bonnells live in a neighborhood of caves on a cliff along the south bank of the Loire—Saumur nestles into this cliff, as do a number of villages. As with many troglo homes, the façade of their house has been extended with neat blocks of tuffeau while the back curves into the cliff—a storage room opened into dark, abandoned cave until they sealed the gap. Their patio and garden are just over the third floor, atop the cliff, overlooking the Loire and Saumur’s castle. Inside, shelves and cubicles and even a nook for a bathtub are carved into the stone; doorways are braced with hand-carved beams. The Bonnells hang many mirrors to spread the light from the windowed side of the house. The effect is magical.

“Everyone in the area is always covered with tuffeau,” Annette laughs, as she brushes some of the white dust from her living-room wall off my jacket.

We begin with a driving/walking tour of some of the cliffside villages thick with troglo sites, although one could do this entirely by foot. The Grande Randonnée 3 (GR3), one of France’s great walking trails, runs behind the castle in downtown Saumur up into the vineyards at the top of the cliff, then dips up and down through the villages below. Horses and workmen used to bring the grape harvest from the fields along these trails— narrow, but not too narrow for intrepid villagers with cars.

We park near the mayor’s office in Souzay as we follow the “troglo” sign to the Chemin des Ecoliers—the “street of the schoolchildren”—and climb toward the dozens of houses that angle out of the cliff. Most have smooth mortared-stone facades, with formal entryways and busy courtyards—a startling contrast to the parts that are still rugged cliff, vines hanging over upper-story windows like untended hair. Souzay’s claim to fame is a turreted 15th century troglo chateau. A plaque claims that Marguerite d’Anjou—the English queen during the War of the Roses—spent her final years here. “The unhappiest of queens, wives, and mothers!” Robert translates. Both Souzay and Turquant, a few miles to the east, are working hard to reclaim their many abandoned caves—there are dozens of boarded-up holes, as well as paths through gashes in the cliff that lead to empty courtyards and overgrown caves. We wander every one of these hushed paths. But back on the village streets, there are signs of improvement: rods drilled into the cliff to stabilize the cavities, new facades over old caves. Turquant has developed a row of caves overlooking the Loire into a cluster of ateliers, where artisans work, teach classes and display their work. Today, only one is open: Marc Boutfol, a gilder who repairs and replicates old frames, shrines, and family crests using traditional, natural materials. He opens a jar of gold powder and thrusts it forward for our inspection. “It’s harmless!” he declares. His wife dips in a finger and dusts her eyelids gold to prove the point.

We head for the flatlands west of Saumur the next day, where miles of caves lie under planted fields and tidy stone villages. Here, some of the quarrying began with an opening on the surface that fanned out, creating vast cathedral-ceiling rooms below. Other quarries cleared a space on the plain, then opened long, labyrinthine tunnels along the sides where entire villages lived. The stone is younger here, not tuffeau but faluns—darker, coarser and a mere ten million years old.

In Doué-la-Fontaine, we visit La Rose Bleue pottery studio, heading down stone stairs into a courtyard while goats peer from the field above. Fifty years ago, parts of the studio’s cathedral-ceiling caverns were inhabited; now the potter plans to move herself and her two children into the space. We visit La Cave Vivante, a sprawling underground mushroom farm where the  champignonniste  plays New Age music for his fungi and offers an Omnimax-type show in one of the cave’s rounded chambers. We eat at Les Caves de la Genevraie in Rochemenier, a troglo restaurant where the waitress recommends that we amble between courses through what was once the underground home for a community of farmers.

Finally, we turn back to tuffeau and arrive at Le Manoir de la Caillère, the gallery of artist Richard Rak. I’ve seen many uses for the troglo caves over the last few days, but Rak’s work—painting combined with found objects to create images of mysterious portent—complement them best. As he takes us through a maze of white tunnels opening into the grottoes that display each piece, he tries to explain what drew him to this place.

“I’m nourished by the silence and introspection of the cave,” he says. “It is as if ancient things are lying dormant.”Yes to all that.

Author’s Note – Troglo Travel

From Paris, take the TGV train from the airport to the St. Pierre des Corps station at Tours, where you can rent a car. Les Hautes Roches in Rochecorbon is just a few miles east of Tours—stay for dinner, if you can, as I had possibly the best meal of my life there. Just outside Saumur, I stayed at the charming, comfortable and very reasonably priced Ami Chenin, a troglo bed and breakfast in an 18th century winemaker’s house. Hosts France and Xavier Amat are also winemakers.

For information about and direction to troglo sites in the Saumur area, contact their tourism office: Carrefour Anjou Touraine Poitou (CATP), an association that preserves and promotes the region’s subterranean heritage:  http://www.catp-asso.org/web

On June 13-14, CATP will host Rendezvous in the Caves, a weekend in which cave homes and enterprises usually closed to the public will welcome visitors.

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• +33(0)2 54 72 97 20
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47 rue Auguste Arnaud 41800 TROO

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Hôtel Restaurant Le Petit Trôo du Cheval Blanc

Hôtel du Petit Trôo du Cheval Blanc

dans la vallée du LOIR, près de Blois, Tours et Le Mans

Bienvenue à l'Hôtel Restaurant Le Petit Trôo du Cheval Blanc

Notre Hôtel Restaurant « le Petit Trôo du Cheval Blanc » vous accueille pour vos séjours en étape affaire, en couple, en famille ou entre amis. Situé dans la vallée du LOIR, à moins d’une heure de Blois, Tours et Le Mans, Trôo est une Petite Cité de Caractère .

 Le village adossé au coteau vous charmera avec ses habitations troglodytiques, sa collégiale, ses remparts, sa motte féodale, son puits qui parle… Au départ de l’hôtel, vous pourrez rejoindre l’itinéraire de la vallée du loir à vélo. L’hôtel, en pierre de tuffeau, vous propose 7 chambres rénovées de 1 à 4 personnes,toutes climatisées et équipées de salles de bain et WC, télévision écran plat et accès au WIFI gratuitement. Pour les professionnels une salle dédiée aux séminaires pour une quinzaine de personnes vous permettra de travailler sereinement avec un accès ADSL2 (jusqu’à 100 MO). Nous mettons à disposition gracieusement un abri pour vélos et motos et un parking public gratuit est disponible en face de l’hôtel. Ce dernier dispose d'une borne de recharge pour les véhicules électriques.

*Compte tenu de l’ancienneté du bâtiment l’hôtel bénéficie d'une dérogation totale pour l’accueil des personnes à mobilité réduite.

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   séjourner dans un hôtel du groupe logis hotels, c'est être comme chez soi.

L'endroit le plus sur au monde, c’est chez vous et c’est aussi chez nous. Chez Logis Hôtels, nous vous accueillons dans nos maisons.

Parce que la santé et le bien-être de nos clients et de notre équipe sont nos seules priorités, nous avons adapté notre fonctionnement. Vous aussi, parce que nous sommes tous responsables, contribuez à un séjour sûr et confortable en respectant les gestes barrières et les mesures spécifiques à notre hotel.

VOICI NOS ENGAGEMENTS

VOIR NOTRE CHARTE SANITAIRE

Notre Référent Covid-19 a adapté les directives des Autorités à notre hôtel ; il contrôle rigoureusement leur application et les fait évoluer pour toujours vous accueillir dans les meilleures conditions,

Notre équipe est formée et applique rigoureusement les procédures renforcées et les gestes barrières ; elle porte obligatoirement un masque et des gants,

Nous affichons les consignes sanitaires partout où elles sont utiles,

Nous avons organisé la   distanciation par un marquage au sol, un sens de circulation, etc., sans nuire au confort de votre séjour,

Nos protocoles sanitaires sont renforcés, en particulier sur les points de contact fréquents comme les poignées de porte, les interrupteurs, boutons d’ascenseurs, etc.,

Nous utilisons des produits de nettoyage efficaces contre ie Covid-19 et écolabellisés autant que possible,

Nous recommandons de réserver en direct pour payer à distance , recevoir votre facture par email et bénéficier des avantages du programme de fidélité ETIK,

Votre chambre et votre salle de bain sont rigoureusement nettoyées et assainies. Le linge de lit et de toilette est lavé à haute température conformément aux recommandations des Autorités. Les produits d’accueil et oreillers supplémentaires sont disponibles sur demande a la réception,

Votre petit déjeuner et vos repas sont adaptés et servis protégés, par exemple sous film, ou sous cloche, en chambre ou en terrasse (si possible]. Notre carte Room Service est disponible sur notre site internet ou par email

La meilleure preuve de notre engagement : nous prenons soin de vous et de votre environnement tout au long de la journée, devant vous et en totale transparence.

   Soyez citoyens et pensez à vous !

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Chambres disponibles à partir de 17H jusqu'à 10 H le lendemain

Petit déjeuner à partir de 7H 15

Horaires du restaurant

Du Mardi soir au Samedi soir de 12H15 à 13H15 et de  19h30 à 21h

Le Dimanche de 12hOO à 14h 

• Business tourism

• Troglodytes

Troubling troglodytes! Under the ground and in the cliffs, the troglodytes of the plains and hillsides of Saumurois form a vast underground network unique in France. More than 1 km of tunnels have been dug by man over the centuries for living, sheltering, working... No, you won't be able to go through them all at once! You will have to come back to discover everything... From the mushroom farm to the habitats, passing through the wine cellars, there are a thousand astonishing ways to experience the troglodytes!

To start, how about a candlelit dinner or a night stolen from time, well sheltered under the rock?!

Visit serenely, book your tickets in advance!

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Are you more into castles or troglodytes? Animal parks or parks and gardens? Cruises on the Loire or a ride on the touristic train?

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Travelers or locals of the region, you can find a wide selection of articles: posters, souvenirs, guides, gourmet products, etc.

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For more choice, go directly to our gift shops.

Troglodyte restaurants

Suivez le guide.

©D. Darrault , VinoValley

Can you smell that delicious odour drifting out of the riverside restaurants in Maine-et-Loire? You really should taste typical and well-known dishes, such as the “fouace” and “galipette”.

01 Apr 2024

15 Dec 2024

LES CATHÉDRALES DE LA SAULAIE

DOUÉ-EN-ANJOU

04 Nov 2024

LES POMMES TAPÉES DU VAL DE LOIRE

10 Feb 2024

11 Nov 2024

RESTAURANT LE SAUT AUX LOUPS

02 Feb 2024

31 Dec 2024

RESTAURANT LES CAVES DE MARSON

01 Jan 2024

LES NOBLES FOUÉES

GENEVRAIE CELLARS

LOURESSE-ROCHEMENIER

02 Jan 2024

LES PIEDS BLEUS

GENNES-VAL-DE-LOIRE

02 Apr 2024

L'HÉLIANTHE

01 Feb 2024

#Jaimelanjou

Share your Anjou with us by marking your photos of the hashtag #Jaimelanjou

Practical information

Les Hautes Roches

View prices for your travel dates

See why so many travelers make Les Hautes Roches their hotel of choice when visiting Rochecorbon. Providing an ideal mix of value, comfort and convenience, it offers a quirky setting with an array of amenities designed for travelers like you.

Free wifi is offered to guests, and rooms at Les Hautes Roches offer a flat screen TV, a minibar, and air conditioning.

During your stay, take advantage of some of the amenities offered, including a 24 hour front desk, room service, and a concierge. Guests of Les Hautes Roches Hotel are also welcome to enjoy a pool and a lounge, located on site. For travelers arriving by car, free parking is available.

For those interested in checking out Chapelle Saint-Georges (1.8 mi) while visiting Rochecorbon, Les Hautes Roches is a short distance away.

While in Rochecorbon, you may want to check out some of the restaurants that are a short walk away from Les Hautes Roches, including L'Embarcadere (0.8 mi), La Part Belle (0.9 mi), and La Table de Joseph (0.3 mi).

If you are looking for something to do in the area, Grandes Caves Saint Roch - Blanc Foussy (0.5 mi) is a popular attraction that is within walking distance of Les Hautes Roches Hotel.

We’re sure you’ll enjoy your stay at Les Hautes Roches as you experience all of the things Rochecorbon has to offer.

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" Most rooms are excellent - and I think all have views of the Loire "

" Eat here "

" You have o try the troglodyte rooms if you haven't done so before "

" Stayed in one of the troglodyte cave rooms (#16) - blissfully cool in the heat. "

" DO NOT stay here! "

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LES HAUTES ROCHES - Prices & Hotel Reviews (France/Rochecorbon, Loire Valley)

• TROGLODYTES
• Destination Sud Val de Loire

ALL THE ORIGINALITY OF THE TROGLODYTE WORLD… FOR AN UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE!

During the Renaissance, the construction of the Loire chateaux led to a massive extraction of this stone, which was known to whiten and harden as it aged.

Bourré, a small village, neighbouring  Montrichard, and just 12 km from the château de Chenonceau ,  is home to over 400km of subterranean galleries and caves which were used by men for centuries for various different purposes.

THE UNMISSABLES

Explore the troglodyte heritage for an unusual visit…

Some underground galleries and caves are now used to store and mature the wine produced by our local winegrowers. Others are the stage for events and activities for holidaymakers in the Loire Valley.

The Magnanerie de Bourré is a place to visit which tells the history of a peasant home where the family began silk making and breeding silk worms . This is a very traditional craft in the Loire Valley , as just a stone’s throw from Bourré, Tours was the silk capital in 1546.

The troglodytes who live in the Magnanerie will give you a very warm welcome. You can visit a part of the interior and find out more about this way of life.

Explore the troglodyte world… of a buried village!

Still in Bourré, take a stroll through the underground town … a reconstitution of a village square with its church, its windows and its residents. An underground world and a mysterious decor, 50 metres down, carved in stone which testifies to the talent of the stonemasons and offers you a breathtaking spectacle.

Another unusual troglodyte site in our region is the Bourré mushroom cellar ! Neither animal nor plant, the conditions in troglodyte caves are perfect for the fungus. The artisan production is spread over several kilometres of galleries and different levels. Oyster mushrooms, blue foot, button mushrooms … find out more about the production of this delicate and sensitive ingredient.

Bourré was for many years an important place for the cultivation of button mushrooms.

• For more information about the visit

Troglo dégusto, a timeless, unusual site

Imagine a gallery over 30 km long, spanning 3 levels; Imagine drawings of quarries on the rock walls… Make your way through the mazes of Troglo Dégusto: More than 1500 years of history.

An underground treasure hunt: Set off on a ‘journey to the centre of the Earth’, with your children, and just a scrap of parchment, left by ‘Grandpa Marcel’. Search for the fabulous treasure hidden in the ‘tuffeau’ galleries.

Escape Game: Great for teenagers and friends… Trolglo dégusto turns into a 4 km playground as you set off on an adventure in search of John Law’s treasure.

And to round it all off perfectly… Try some Touraine PDO wines from the Tabourelles estate as you leave! That’s if you can get out…

OUR MOST BEAUTIFUL TUFFEAU SITES

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Hotel Marhala – A Night in a Troglodyte Home

Spending a night underground is an incredible experience!!! If you are visiting the south of Tunisia, or you are a Star Wars fan, a night at Hotel Marhala is a MUST. Hotel Marhala is located in Matmata, near the Sahara Desert.  It is an incredible place to explore. Most people know the town Matmata for the Star Wars set.

Troglodyte Homes in Matmata

The uniqueness of Matmata centers around the Troglodyte homes.  Troglodyte homes are homes made underground with, chimney-like, courtyard openings to the sky.  These homes were traditionally made for locals to escape the coolness of winter and the heat of summer, where temperatures can reach 50 C. Living underground takes the edge off the extreme weather.

Hotel Marhala in Matmata

Hotel Marhala is a 3★ hotel and offers you a chance to experience life, Troglodyte style.  The hotel is a Troglodyte Labyrinth with connecting different cave-like areas together. In each courtyard, you will find many clean cave rooms, which are the hotel rooms. With your stay comes a traditional supper and breakfast.  The delicious Tunisian courses never seem to end with Brik, Couscous, soup, and more. The friendly staffs also make the stay worthwhile. We were lucky and got to hear one of the local musicians playing his oud (pear-shaped guitar) in one of the courtyards. If you love new experiences that are unlike any other you need to add a stay at Hotel Marhala to your list.

Visit Matmata

If you are interested in visiting Matmata, our  travel experts  are happy to assist you to plan a  Star Wars tour  or an  unforgettable Tunisia tour .

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