long travel mountain bike forks

Best mountain bike forks 2024 – the best front suspension for trail, XC, enduro and downhill

The best mountain bike forks will add speed and control to your riding. Here are our top picks for every mountain bike discipline

What you need to know about the best mountain bike forks

The best mountain bike forks are a vital piece of equipment as they smooth out the trail surface by absorbing impacts and imperfections and, in doing so, improve traction, speed and control over bumpy and gnarly terrain.

However, this wasn’t always the case. Early examples of the mountain bike were bereft of such comfort-providing contraptions and rigid frames were the order of the day. In fact, it wasn’t until the early 1990s that the suspension fork was introduced to both downhill and cross-country racing. While it radically altered the feel and performance of the bikes, these early examples were more of the one-size-fits-all variety and sported between 30-50mm of travel.

Nowadays, the best mountain bike forks are lighter than ever before, be infinitely tuned, have more suspension travel and improved feedback. Which fork is best for your particular setup depends largely on the type of riding/discipline you prefer so we have broken this guide up into cross-country , trail , enduro , and downhill .

When running air suspension, you'll also need one of the best shock pumps to maintain and set it up.

Best mountain bike forks for trail

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RockShox Pike Ultimate RC2

Our expert review:

Specifications

Reasons to buy, reasons to avoid.

RockShox's Pike fork has long been the benchmark of trail riding fork performance. The OG Pike was released in 2007 and was an instant hit - from there it has just got better and better.

The fork comes with RockShox's RC2 (or RCT3) damper and is enhanced by new SKF seals and Maxima Plush suspension fluid which keeps everything sliding smoothly together. This means the DebonAir negative spring works well to give excellent small -performance and boost cornering traction.

There's the option to experiment with compression as well as tuning the fork feel with volume spacers. That said we have had great results simply pumping them up to the recommended psi default set-up and hitting the trails.

Out on the trail the 35mm chassis is plenty stiff enough, offering steering precision and accuracy even if the trail starts to get verge on enduro territory. This doesn't come with a weight penalty either.

Read why we gave the RockShox Pike Ultimate RC2 a maximum five starts out of five.

Fox Float 34 Factory GRIP2

Designed for trail riders, the Fox Float 34 Factory now gets the brand's GRIP2 damper and EVOL air-spring packaged in a super lightweight chassis - 1,769g in 650b guise, which is incredibly light. 

As the name references, it gets 34mm stanchions complete with envy-inducing gold Kashima coatings, which are claimed to increases shock smoothness and sensitivity.

Despite its low weight, the Fox 34 is stiff, offering the suppleness and plush damping quality expected from Fox. With the addition of the 38 to Fox's range, it has allowed the brand to spread the available travel across different models, meaning each individual fork now comes in fewer options — the 650b Fox 43 now provides between 130mm and 140mm travel, while the 29er fork only comes in 140mm.

Cane Creek Helm Air MKII

Cane Creek revamped the veritable Helm Air Fork and what was already a fantastic fork has become even better. It retains the 35mm stanchions, tapered steerer and adjustable travel from 100-160mm, but the guts of the fork are all new.

Most notable is the tokenless air volume adjust, which allows riders to customize how progressive the fork is with the turn of a knob. The air-spring and dampers have also undergone a radical redesign. The new air piston has been re-engineered to reduce friction while also increasing overall air volume for improved traction and suppleness. 

The damper too has been updated with new compression and mid valve circuit for increased support and control via the high/low-speed compression and rebound adjustments. Also new are the low friction SKF seals and 2.5 weight oil for a more supple feel. 

Not to worry, among all the updates to the Helm, Cane Creek has retained the configurable air spring that allows riders to add or remove air from the positive and negative air chambers independent of one another. 

The Helm also benefits from a unique axle system called D-LOC. Apart from keeping the wheel in place, the D-LOC axle thwarts rotational and torsional loads to the upper bushings during cornering and high-speed compression.

For more details, read our Cane Creek HELM Air fork review.

RockShox Yari RC

While the RockShox Yari shares its DNA with the Lyrik, including its chassis, travel options, offsets and 35mm stanchion structure, it differs by way of its damper system — Motion Control vs the Lyrik’s Charger 2.1 RC2 damper.

Sure, this means it is a little less refined in terms of performance and damping plushness but the Yari is a reliable and robust performer designed to be ridden hard thanks to the stiff chassis and ease with which it can be set up.

If you’re looking for a big-hitting, affordable fork with the pedigree to match it’s hard to find anything as reliable as the Yari.

Best mountain bike forks for enduro

RockShox Lyrik Ultimate

Bold and expressive, the RockShox Lyrik RC2 was updated - both visually and internally - to better cope with the rigors of enduro racing. As such, the Lyrik gains a fresh lick of red paint which contrasts the black uppers quite superbly - however, it's under the skin where the biggest updates have been implemented.

The air spring shaft is now hollowed out, which RockShox claim boasts 42 per cent more negative spring volume than before resulting in better small-bump sensitivity and coil-spring-like linearity. 

The updated Charger 2 RC2 damper has eschewed the three-position lever (this means no lockout) of its forebear in favor of a high-speed, five-click adjuster that is claimed to be more tuneable and responsive to trail nuances.

Find out how the RockShox Lyrik Ultimate fared on test.

Fox 38 Factory GRIP2

Unless you are racing EWS, riding massive lines at the bike park or you just hit terrain particularly hard, Fox’s 38 platform is probably going to be a bit overkill. However, if you looking for the best mountain bike fork for enduro they don't come more capable than the 38 Factory fork.

With travel options of either 160mm, 170mm or 180mm, the stiffer structure, and superbly supple internals all work together to produce a superlative experience on the toughest trails. 

It's not just a sized-up exterior either, the internals are new, too. That means the fork is better when it comes to control, consistency, sensitivity and response but still super supportive than its thinner-legged comrade, the 36. Despite being noticeably stiffer structurally when smashing through trail furniture, it’s actually more comfortable, too.

We've got more details in our full review of the Fox 38 Factory GRIP2 fork .

Marzocchi Bomber Z2 RAIL Gen 2

Marzocchi have based the second generation Bomber Z2 around the entry-level Rhythm version of the Fox 34. That includes the thicker walled 6066 stanchions, seals, other internal components, and Float air spring. That means you can use the same clip-in volume spacers (it comes with none fitted but has four in the box) and switchable air shafts to change travel from 100 to 150mm in 10mm increments. As you can’t even buy a Fox 34 Rhythm aftermarket, the Z2 fills that gap and also costs significantly less than the cheapest 34. 

If you’re looking to upgrade the existing fork on a mid-price bike or looking at building a machine for going properly hard on without emptying your wallet or worrying about complicated setup and servicing, then the Z2 is an excellent option. A bit of tuning time definitely pays dividends to get it really snapping on the heels of forks twice its price, but even running the stock setup it’s a great option that's well worthy of consideration.

For more on this very reasonably priced option, read our full Marzocchi Bomber Z2 review .

Best mountain bike forks for cross-country

RockShox SID Ultimate SL

The RockShox SID Ultimate sits at the very top of the company’s cross-country range of suspension forks. SL denotes that this is the lightest of the SID line-up, focused on covering miles and scaling gradients with ease.

RockShox has done a superb job of dropping weight while improving suspension feel and keeping accuracy competitive for the category. It can take a few rides to soften everything up but once you’ve banked some ride time it’s extremely plush and sensitive too, boosting traction and reducing fatigue on rough terrain - although more aggressive riders will want to add spacers to the linear stroke. 

We think they look great, too, plus the space for high-volume tires, competitive pricing, and lots of attention to detail means the SID Ultimate SL is our new benchmark XC race fork, especially when paired with a Torque Cap hub/wheel.

For information on how it performed, read our review of the RockShox SID SL Ultimate fork .

Fox Float 32 Factory Step-Cast

If it’s a high-performance, lightweight cross-country suspension fork that you’re after, there aren’t many options that can beat the Fox Float 32 Factory Step-Cast. 

Compared to many of its Boost-equipped rivals, the Fox 32 is appreciably narrower when measured from leg to leg thanks to a stepped cut-out at the drop-outs. This nifty feature has not only improved lateral stiffness but considerably reduced its weight over its rivals, too.

Fox has redesigned the crown and claims improved stiffness of 20 percent, something that if true will have made the 32 as stiff as the current 34 fork, its bigger, trail-focussed cousin.

We've got the full review of the Fox 32 SC Factory fork if you want to know more.

Best mountain bike forks for downhill

Fox Float 40 Factory

Fox’s venerable Float 40 Factory fork needs no introduction having experienced prodigious downhill mountain bike success at World Cup level over the past several years. 

Built around 40mm stanchions and featuring a whopping 203mm of travel, the fork is naturally very stiff and responsive, if anything, a touch on the heavy side despite weight-saving measures around the crown and lowers.

The large volume of the air chamber means the 40 has a linear stroke, tuneable by way of volume tokens which deliver a compression stroke as plush as any of Fox’s Factory Kashima-coated forks. 

Further adjustably can be made by fiddling with the four-way GRIP2 damper that independently adjusts high- and low-speed compression and rebound.

RockShox Boxxer Ultimate

As far as heavy-hitting downhill suspension forks go, the RockShox Boxxer has been a favorite in the pro rungs for years now. The latest version, the Boxxer Ultimate, has received several tweaks including updated seals and oil, and a Charger 2.1 damper system claimed to make it run smoother than before.

Furthermore, this new damper system allows the fork to stay higher in the travel, compress more linearly (like a coil spring) and rebound with more control for better landings.

A big difference between the Boxxer and its rivals has always been the 35mm stanchion tubing, which is notably slimmer than its 40mm rivals. While this does add some torsional twist, the Boxxer never feels unsettled - instead, it provides pliancy and confidence in spades.

How do I choose a fork for my mountain bike?

Owing to the fact that the sport now spans myriad disciplines - cross-country , trail /all-mountain, enduro and downhill - the best mountain bike suspension forks have become more specialized in application and function. As a result, each mountain bike discipline places a very different set of demands on the bike and rider so the modern suspension fork varies in terms of travel, spring systems and stanchion thickness. Simply by looking, its possible to see a dramatic difference between the best XC forks and downhill forks.

There are a couple of specific things you should consider before choosing the best mountain bike fork. Firstly is how much travel your bike is designed to be used with, this is important as a fork that is too long or short will upset a bike geometry . Secondly the type of riding you are planning on doing, for example there are a number of forks that cross over around the 160mm mark, some are more trail orientated while others are enduro focussed. Opting for a stronger and heavier enduro fork rather than a trail fork is going to make a noticeable difference to how your bike rides.

The modern mountain bike suspension fork is a complicated piece of kit and naturally comprises many moving parts. It’s worth familiarizing yourself with the fork’s anatomy and the various terms associated with it before making your choice.

How much suspension fork travel do I need?

Modern mountain bike geometries are specifically designed around suspension travel. For example, cross-country mountain bikes feature short-travel forks as the trails are relatively smooth and comprise lots of climbing, so they need to be light and responsive while still providing a decent range of compression. As you move through the various types of mountain biking, the weight, stanchion thickness and travel all increase so as to meet the demanding needs of each discipline.

• Cross-country: 100-120mm travel, 30-32mm stanchion diameter
• Trail: 120-150mm travel, 34mm stanchion diameter
• Enduro: 150-180mm travel, 35-38mm stanchion diameter
• Downhill: 180-200mm travel, 40mm stanchion diameter

The diameter of the stanchion tubes directly affects the fork’s lateral stiffness. The secret here is finding a balance between weight and performance, as wider stanchions are stiffer and heavier than their narrower counterparts but are more resilient to greater impacts from rough terrain and jump landings.

What size axles do mountain bike forks have?

Thru-axles are wider, stronger and stiffer than the old quick-release skewer systems of yesteryear and have been the gold standard on most high-end performance mountain bikes for some time now. The 20mm standard is generally reserved for downhill and enduro while the 15mm thru-axle is found on just about all trail and cross-country bikes.

Until Boost hub spacing came along, the standard for thru-axles was 100mm spacing in the front (110mm for downhill bikes) and 135mm/142mm spacing in the rear. The wider hub and flange spacing offered by Boost has increased the stiffness of 29-inch and 650b wheels even further with the new standards coming in at 110mm (front) and 148mm (rear). 

What type of steerer should I get?

There are two steerer types - straight and tapered. A standard steerer tube is straight with a 1-1/8-inch diameter although this size is becoming increasingly uncommon. Most modern forks come standard with tapered steerers as they’re stiffer, lighter and provide a better feel and response than a regular straight steerer.

What are volume tokens/spacers?

Volume spacers or tokens allow you to fine-tune the air volume of your fork. Adding tokens reduces the volume of the air chamber causing the air pressure to ramp up quickly so the spring pressure can be set low, allowing more suspension sag without the risk of bottoming out. Removing tokens will provide the reverse effect.

Is coil or air suspension better?

There are two different spring systems: air and coil springs. Air springs have become the staple choice on modern suspension forks as they are tuneable and have a progressive compression rate — the feel is softer in the first part of the travel and then gets stiffer as more compression is applied. Coil springs on the other hand are found predominantly on downhill bikes. Linear in feel, they provide consistent impact absorption over the range of spring travel. Coil generally has a much smoother compression action too as they have less seal friction.

Aaron is Bike Perfect's former tech editor and also the former gear editor of Bicycling magazine. He's tested thousands of bicycles all over the world. A competitive racer and Stravaholic, he’s twice ridden the Cape Epic, raced nearly every MTB stage race in South Africa and completed the Haute Route Alps. Recently, Aaron has also taken up Zwift racing and competes at the highest level of eRacing, the ZRL Premier Division.

Rides: Trek Procaliber 9.9 MTB 

Height: 175cm

Weight: 61.5kg

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The best mountain bike fork 2021 – 9 suspension forks in review

The battle for the best enduro suspension fork is hotting up. Muscled up forks with bigger and burlier chassis have entered the arena, throwing down the gauntlet to the skinnier forebears. We put 9 of the best 170 mm suspension forks to the test to find out which comes out on top.

For the last 2 years, it’s fair to say that not a lot has happened on the mainstream suspension fork scene. Yes, there have been small revisions to some of the leading forks, but there has been nothing groundbreaking. This year, instead of small evolutionary steps, some brands have taken a giant leap. Of course, we mean the two suspension giants FOX and RockShox who have both released their new 38 mm platforms to complement their existing 35 and 36 mm enduro offerings. Alongside the new Manitou Mezzer PRO, these bigger and burlier forks have made us ask whether stiffer forks are better. Will a stiffer fork make us faster or give us more control? To find out, we tested these burlier forks alongside the best 35 and 36 mm options in our group test, abusing them mercilessly on some gnarly Scottish terrain.

Table of contents

Suspension fork faq, what makes a great suspension fork, how to choose the right suspension fork for your bike, how should i set up my suspension fork, the contenders – which forks did we include in this group test, how we tested the suspension forks, where did we test, four things we learned from the 2021 fork test, which is the best enduro fork of 2021, what is a mountain bike suspension fork.

While containing many complex components, a suspension fork has a simple function. To lessen the impact of trail obstacles by absorbing their energy through its compression. The suspension fork has three main elements:

Damper – The damper’s function is to convert the kinetic energy of the spring into heat energy, usually by forcing oil through adjustable ports. The damper helps control the speed at which the suspension can compress and extend. The damper is found in the opposite fork leg to the spring.

Spring – The spring absorbs the energy created by an impact, isolating the rider from it. The spring stores the energy, releasing it when the fork extends, while the damper converts excess energy to heat. The stiffness of a spring is defined by its spring rate, the ratio of force per distance the spring is compressed. The spring is found in the opposite fork leg to the damper.

Chassis – The chassis of the fork houses the spring and damper, providing a strong and stable platform for the internals to work effectively and providing accurate steering for the rider.

What is the difference between coil and air springs in a suspension fork?

The spring component of the fork can be either an air spring or a coil spring. Coil springs are linear, meaning that the amount the coil compresses under a given load is identical no matter where the spring is in its travel. Some manufacturers now make progressive-rate springs with varying coil spacing, requiring more force to compress the spring the same distance at the end of the stroke than at the beginning. By far the most popular choice, most mountain bikes now come fitted with air sprung forks. An air spring is a sealed chamber filled with air. Under compression, the fork lowers push an internal air piston up against the air in the chamber, reducing its volume and increasing the pressure. This increase in pressure applies an opposing force to the air piston, pushing it back out again. Unlike coil springs, air springs have a progressive spring curve, the amount of force required to compress the spring increases exponentially through the stroke. The advantage of air springs is that their spring rate is defined by the air pressure in the air chamber, therefore they are easily adjusted by the user using a simple pump.

What does a negative spring do in my suspension fork?

Before your fork can start moving in response to an impact, it needs to reach the breakaway force. The breakaway force is the sum of the forces of the static friction of the seals and the pressure in the positive air chamber against the air piston. To reduce the breakaway force, either pressurised air or a coil spring can be added behind the piston to oppose the main air chamber spring and counterbalance the breakaway force. This is known as a negative spring. Most air negative air-springs use a valve or bypass dimple to equalise the pressure in the negative and positive spring, so the initial pressure on either side of the air piston is the same.

What does the damper do in my suspension fork?

The force of an impact transmits energy into the suspension, with the spring storing and returning energy by compressing and extending, while the damper stops the spring from bouncing uncontrollably or oscillating, controlling the rate at which it moves. Like the air spring, the damper is a chamber containing a piston that can move up and down, actuated by the movement of the suspension. Unlike the air spring, the chamber is filled with damping fluid, usually some kind of oil. When the damper is compressed, the volume of the immersing shaft displacing some of that oil, forcing it through the adjustable orifices of the compression damper – located at the top. When the fork extends again, the shaft is pulled in the other direction. The head of the shaft houses both the piston and the rebound damping. As the shaft extends, oil is forced from one side of the piston to the other, moving through the adjustable orifices of the rebound damping circuit. As the fluid flows, friction is generated, converting the energy stored in the suspension to heat. The tighter the restriction, i.e. the smaller the opening of adjustable orifices/valving, the more energy is converted as the oil flows through the damper, and in turn, the higher the damping.

What is rebound damping?

Rebound damping controls the speed at which compressed suspension extends after an impact. If rebound damping is too low (-) the suspension will extend too fast and feel bouncy and out of control. If the rebound damping is too high (+) the suspension will not recover fast enough after repeated impacts and pack down, sinking ever lower into its travel and performing poorly.

What is low-speed compression damping?

Low-speed compression damping influences your suspension characteristics at low shaft speeds (not bike speeds), predominantly influencing the mid-portion of the suspension travel. If you feel like you have achieved a good spring rate with good small bump performance and good bottom-out control but you feel that the bike lacks mid-stroke support, sinking deep into its travel when you brake hard, ride steep trails or push the bike into corners and jump faces, you need to add more low-speed compression damping. Adding low-speed compression damping does decrease suspension sensitivity, so you only want to add the minimum level to achieve enough support.

What is high-speed compression damping?

The most expensive forks and rear shocks have a high-speed compression damping adjustment (HSC), controlling the damping when the suspension compresses at high shaft speeds (big, fast impacts). If you find that your fork or shock is still bottoming out too easily and have a high-end shock and fork with the option, you can adjust your high-speed compression damping. Adding more high-speed compression damping reduces the amount of travel the fork uses in high-speed impacts (shaft speed not bike speed). Low levels of high-speed compression result in digressive damping which allows full travel easily in response to big, fast hits.

When I set up my fork, should I measure the adjustments from fully closed or fully open?

You should always measure the number of ‘clicks’ of your fork settings from fully closed (maximum damping). This gives a better reference point, as when fully opening the ports inside your suspension, the last click or so tends to be a little vague due to different tolerances from fork to fork.

How should I set up my suspension fork sag?

Sag is important when setting up your suspension fork. Sag is the amount your fork compresses under the rider weight (including riding gear) and setting the correct sag is the only way of reaching the optimum air pressure for your riding weight and style. Most fork manufacturers recommend between 15-20% sag depending on riding style. Sag can also be considered a tuning method. Changing the amount of sag on the forks changes the geometry of your bike, running less sag will cause the front of the bike to stay high on steep trails and under braking but will result in a harsher ride with less cornering traction. Running more sag will give a more comfortable ride with more grip, but lower the front end height under hard braking and on steep trails. It’s all a balance. In general, more sag (20%) is better for cornering, increasing weight on the front wheel and helping the front end dive through turns, while less sag (15%) is better for high-speed stability and pedalling efficiency.

How often should I service my suspension fork?

Let’s face it, nobody likes spending money on servicing. Instead, we would love to spend all our expendable cash on shiny new bike kit. However, you wouldn’t buy a Ferrari 488 and never change the oil. Suspension forks are complex moving parts and therefore require frequent lubrication. Investing time keeping your fork well serviced will give you a noticeable performance benefit. All the forks in this test use suspension oil in the lowers to lubricate the seals and while a full damper service may be beyond the capabilities of most amateur mechanics, a lower leg service is a very straightforward process. Most fork brands produce service schedules and useful how-to videos and tutorials and learning how to do a basic service is a treat for you and your bike. Changing oil regularly will not only boost your mechanical kung-fu but also leave you with silky smooth forks.

What do I do if my suspension fork creaks?

Creaking forks are unnerving and nearly all manufacturers suffer from this with a very small proportion of their forks. Telltale symptoms include sharp cracking or popping sounds under braking or full compression. The issue may sometimes be down to dirt or grime under the crown race, but is more often the stanchions creaking in the press fit crown. Both RockShox and FOX are the biggest offenders, not because their forks necessarily creak more than others but because their forks are far more popular, and therefore rare problems are seen in larger numbers. If your fork creaks under hard braking, the first step is to check and clean the crown race and headset bearing faces. If, after that, your fork still creaks then it’s time to call in the professionals and drop off your fork at a service centre. Many manufacturers will replace the CSU (crown, steerer and stanchion assembly) under warranty.

Can I adjust my mountain bike suspension fork travel?

If you frequently buy new frames or like to adjust the geometry of your bike, then a fork with adjustable travel may be desirable. While there used to be on-trail travel adjust systems a few years ago, such systems tended to compromise performance. The current range of top-tier enduro forks are fixed travel. However, some of the forks like the Manitou Mezzer Pro have internally adjustable travel, allowing you to change the travel up to 50 mm using internal travel reducers. This does require partial disassembly of the fork but allows a lot of flexibility and takes the worry out of experimenting with a travel change. The travel of the other forks can be adjusted but in most cases, a different length air spring will need to be purchased.

Why do we not have upside-down suspension forks like motorbikes?

We have been waiting for a good upside-down suspension fork for years. Once motorbikes went upside-down they never looked back. so why don’t we have an inverted fork? Inverted forks make a lot of sense, as you hammer down the trail, the highest fore-aft stress your forks encounter is under the crown where the leverage is highest. On a standard fork, this is where the stanchions are bonded into the crown. On an upside fork, this point can be substantially thicker using more material, resulting in more fore-aft stiffness. However, having no arch means that upside-down forks have always suffered from increased lateral flex. We’ve tested a number of upside-down forks over the years and have found that while they offer many advantages in ride comfort, they still lack the precise steering in high-load situations that aggressive riders require and often come at a price premium. We did invite an upside-down fork to this test but it was declined as it was deemed that our findings would be the same.

While unquestionably complex, a suspension fork has three main components. Firstly, it has a spring to absorb the violent hits when you roll foolishly into a crazy line. Secondly, the fork contains an oil-filled damper, which controls the speed of the spring. By forcing oil through small ports it converts the kinetic energy of the spring into heat. The best dampers will provide support and stability on steep terrain, keeping the fork high in its travel under hard braking and weight shifts, and using full travel only when needed. Finally, the fork needs a stiff chassis, allowing steering inputs from the bars to be translated accurately onto the trail, carving accurate lines while under pressure and keeping you out of the trees. Often, with infinite tuning configurations, the best forks will be easy to set up to your riding style and home trails without needing a PhD in suspension kinematics.

When it comes to choosing the best suspension fork for your bike, there are several points you need to consider.

Wheel size The first consideration is the wheel size. Yes, you can physically fit a 27.5” wheel into a 29” fork, but the axle to crown distance (if you buy a fork with the same travel) will be different on the longer 29” fork, changing the geometry of your bike.

Travel Unless you know what you are doing or are looking to change the personality of your bike, it is best to stick to the amount of travel the bike comes with from the factory. Fitting a longer travel fork will raise both the stack height and bottom bracket height of your bike, impacting the handling. Also, fitting a longer travel fork may void your bike’s warranty.

Air or coil? There has been something of a resurgence of coil forks and shocks in the enduro sector. Finally, riders are realising that overall bike weight is less important than performance, allowing them to choose products that help their riding, not the readout on a scale. Requiring fewer seals, and therefore having less friction, coil spring forks have always been the champion of small bump compliance, smoothing the trail and providing huge grip. Air forks are certainly the most popular choice and while arguably they still cannot match a coil for sensitivity (though they are now very close), they are significantly lighter and can be easily adjusted to different rider weights where a coil fork might require a different spring to be installed. Generally, due to the nature of air compressing inside the spring, air forks have more progression, giving more support to the middle and end of the stroke. However, many of the latest coil forks feature technologies to increase end stroke support, such as the mechanical Ramp Control in the MRP or the trapped air volumes in the Marzocchi Bomber Z1 coil.

Which offset is best?

The concept is simple: the shorter the fork offset, the longer the trail (the horizontal distance between where the wheel and the steering axis contact the ground). In theory, longer trail stabilises the steering and traditionally, manufacturers gave 29ers longer offsets to produce shorter trails for faster steering. However, that thinking is changing now that we are riding big wheels in harder terrain. Many brands are now offering multiple offsets per wheel size, such as the RockShox Lyrik Ultimate that offers both 51 and 42 mm offsets in 29” (46 and 37 mm in 27.5”). After extensive back-to-back testing with both offsets, we found that any differences in ride feel are very small and quickly counteracted by the rider’s position. We tend to choose the shorter offsets for our own bikes as there seems to be no loss of agility or responsiveness to the steering.

Chassis stiffness – is bigger always better?

The diameter of the stanchions of a suspension fork often dictates its intended use. Forks with bigger stanchions are heavier and stiffer, thus most often used with longer travel for more gravity focussed use.

The new, bigger 38 mm stanchions are hot property in the enduro fork world right now and are claimed to be significantly stronger and stiffer. It might seem like a lot of excitement over a 2 mm increase. However, given the same wall thickness, doubling the diameter of a tube increases the tube stiffness four times, meaning that small changes in diameter play a bigger role than you may think. That said, there’s always a sweet spot as increasing the diameter of a tube often increases the weight. Also, we need to start asking when a fork is too stiff. Just like overly stiff carbon wheels that reduce grip in certain situations, compliance is important in forks too.

If you race, are a very heavy rider or push hard enough to flex a FOX 36 or RockShox Lyrik, then the latest generation of super forks will be ideal for you. However, if you are looking for more of an all-round bike for fun laps with friends and post-work shreds, the lighter and more comfortable 36/35 mm chassis may be the best choice. It’s ‘mountain bike rider nature’ to lust after the latest models and flagship products, but by being honest with yourself about how and where you ride, you will end up with a more balanced bike that best suits the riding you do.

There are no longer good and bad forks, only good and great forks. Now, more than ever, the correct setup is key. If you want to find out more about how to get the most out of your bike, check out our complete guide to suspension fork setup . You can have the incredible RockShox Lyrik Ultimate but if you set it up badly, it will perform worse than a well set up RockShox Yari RC. Unlike shocks, where frame engineers use the rear suspension kinematics to control the forces acting on the shock, suspension forks all encounter the same leverage ratio: 1:1. Different riders with different riding styles may want different responses from their suspension fork. Some desire buttery smooth small bump compliance, some want huge support for big jumps and high speeds, some just want an easy-going touring setup. Manufacturers now have to balance the needs of those who want a good setup from the box, with those who love tinkering and agonise over one click of compression damping. Tuning focussed brands like DVO, FOX and Manitou allow almost every aspect of the suspension performance to be modified to suit the rider’s preferences, while Marzocchi, Ӧhlins and RockShox try to keep setup simple.

The aim of this test was to find the ultimate enduro fork – the fork that delivers the highest performance on everything from fast and loose natural singletrack to full-bore shit-yourself downhill tracks. Dual crown forks were out, as were skinny and flexible trail forks that put too much emphasis on reducing weight. We tested each fork at 170 mm (except for the FOX 36 which was tested at 160 mm due to its new position in the FOX lineup) and in the 29er wheel size. Both FOX and RockShox have huge lineups so we tested both their 36 and Lyrik platforms, as well as the bigger 38 and ZEB big-hitters. The Manitou Mezzer PRO and Öhlins RXF 36 M2 Air had to be included as both use three air chambers for extreme tunability. We wanted some coil options too – for riders who want minimal maintenance and easy setup, coil makes a lot of sense. The MRP Ribbon Coil stood out with it’s Ramp Control feature allowing the end-stroke progression to be adjusted and we had heard great things about the Marzocchi Bomber Z1 Coil. Rounding out the 9 fork test field was the DVO Onyx SC D1 as a tuner’s favourite, giving great control over every aspect of the fork.

Where is the Formula Selva, Intend Edge, EXT ERA and the burlier Öhlins?

There are some notable omissions in this group test with EXT, Formula and Intend missing, though all were invited to participate. EXT were keen to meet their pre-orders before sending a fork, but we have one coming and will update the review as soon as we have given it a hammering. Formula did not think that their Selva R fitted well with the latest 38 mm chassis forks and declined the offer – perhaps they are working on something new? We were keen to get a new Intend upside-down fork into the test but owner Cornelius indicated that our findings would be similar to the last fork we tested and declined our offer. By the time we headed into our back to back test session, the burlier RXF38 offering from Öhlins was still a well kept Swedish secret. However, we are very excited to put the stiffer chassis Öhlins head to head against the competition soon.

While undeniably fun, it’s not an easy job testing suspension forks. With infinitely variable air springs, bottomless tokens and 4-way adjustable dampers, the possible configurations of each fork are almost limitless and that’s before even thinking about custom tuning. A well set up average fork will easily outperform a poorly setup exceptional fork, so it’s important to ensure each fork is dialled in before testing. We were interested to see how much time you allocate to fork setup and so we reached out over Instagram . Given the choice between “Less than one hour” or “More than one hour” over 650 of you responded and the responses were split 50/50. That means for every one of you that likes to incrementally tweak the low-speed compression adjuster each and every ride, there’s someone else who sets their fork once in the car park and never looks at it again.

Many brands are working hard to make their suspension forks easier to set up. Nearly all the models in this group test now feature recommended pressure stickers on the fork legs and some have interactive tuning apps to help the rider get a good starting point. The brand who is doing the best is certainly RockShox. Not only do they offer their TrailHead app, walking you through suspension setup but the ZEB and Lyrik both have sag markings on the stanchions, letting you quickly establish if you have the correct air pressure in the fork.

How did we test?

During the back to back sessions, we first set the fork using the manufacturer’s recommended setting for a given rider weight (fully kitted). Sag was recorded and recommended compression settings were used if given by the manufacturer. Several shuttle runs were performed to assess the manufacturer recommended setup before the test riders were free to tune the forks to their own preference. Forks were swapped during the midday break to ensure a reference point while experiences were still fresh. Runs were timed to be able to compare forks further and the testers rode at a speed where they were fast, but not out of control.

There’s no place like home, especially when your UK office is based in the Tweed Valley, Scotland. With world-class, shuttle accessed DH and enduro trails right on the doorstep, we decided to keep the test close to home, on tracks that we had ridden thousands of times. Using the Adrenalin Uplift shuttle for support, we established two test tracks: the first a derivative of the legendary iXS downhill track with high-speed root gardens, eyeball popping turns and some fair-sized step-downs. The second took us from the doubles of Make or Brake into the fiercely washed out and hammered turns of Gold Run. Both tracks were just over 3 minutes of flat-out descending and each of the test riders knew every inside line and compression.

The test team

Everyone’s thoughts on suspension and setup are different, so it was important that we had a large test team to put the forks through their paces.

We didn’t ride any faster on the bigger 38 mm platforms

Looking at the timing data, switching from a FOX 36 to FOX 38 or Lyrik Ultimate to a ZEB Ultimate did not result in an observable increase in speed. While we picked terrain that should have favoured a bigger fork, our 75–90 kg riders were just as fast on the (relatively) smaller platforms. We did find the big FOX 38 was more sensitive and offered slightly more grip, but it didn’t take chunks out of the stopwatch. Admittedly, we weren’t riding at race pace but were riding at the fastest speed the bike allowed without risk of crashing – the kind of speed you run when hunting down your mates on a trail. Racers may be able to exploit the stiffer chassis when riding right on the limit to save a few seconds here and there but if your riding is more mid-pack, upgrading to a 38 mm chassis will not put you on top of the podium.

Some forks take a lot longer to set up

To get the best out of their product, suspension designers need to make it easy for us. When you jump into a car, you don’t need a manual to work out how to make it warmer inside. It should be the same with suspension forks. RockShox is ahead of the curve here and both their Lyrik and ZEB platforms can be set up in 10 minutes with a wide sweet-spot. The Manitou Mezzer is the toughest fork to get right, with its low pressures and very sensitive IRT chamber, it is one for those who enjoy taking time to dial in their settings.

Coil still has its place

The Marzocchi Bomber Z1 was a highlight in this group test. Yes, it is basic. Yes, you need to find the spring rate that works for you. And yes, it’s a heavy beast. But once you find the correct spring, the top-tier performance let us keep up with the big boys effortlessly. Surprisingly progressive and supportive, it’s the standout bargain in this group test if you can swallow the additional weight. However, putting a coil inside a fork does not automatically make it great and it needs to be balanced with a supportive chassis. The MRP Ribbon Coil frustrated us with its vague chassis, holding us back on the descents.

Whatever happened to 20 mm axles?

With most manufacturers now focussing their marketing on chassis support and accurate steering, it feels as though we missed an opportunity with 20 mm axles. With the new 38 mm platforms now offering 190 mm of travel, 15 mm is now the universal standard for single-crown fork axles and the stiffer and stronger 20 mm thru-axle format has almost been eradicated from the enduro sector. Going against common sense, no forks in this test have a 20 mm option. For 2021, when it comes to enduro forks, the 20 mm thru-axle is dead.

What a battle of the titans it was! With testing over, we were left with crashes, broken bones, countless impacts and a whole lot of hollering. Overall, the standard of forks in the test was very impressive – never before has going so fast been so effortlessly easy.

Starting with our least favourite fork, the MRP Ribbon coil struggled to keep up through rock gardens and over big hits, feeling over-active in the middle of the travel with a flexible chassis. Compared to the best of the competition, we were braking sooner and less confident pushing the limit. There was nothing trail about the Ӧhlins RXF M2, which is a great upgrade over the outgoing model. The Ramp Up chamber offers easier adjustment of the spring rate than swapping out tokens, allowing you to quickly find a setup that works for you. Compared to the best in test, the fork lacks the buttery small bump compliance, though the heavier damping feels better the faster you go. The DVO Onyx SC D1 is a real tuner’s dream. Using the O.T.T adjustment we were highly impressed with the fork’s ability to track the ground like a coil. Under hard and fast repetitive hits, the Onyx makes swift progress but it is a heavy beast. If you really don’t care about your suspension setup and just want a fork that works, then buy a Marzocchi Bomber Z1 Coil. It’s effortless to set up and boasts performance that defies its affordable price tag. It really is the hidden gem in this lineup but is not one for weight weenies, adding a lot of weight to the bike. The FOX 36 2021 has seen some good updates too. Downgraded to an all-mountain fork, we didn’t feel that it held us back on full-gas DH trails. When ridden back-to-back against the RockShox Lyrik 2021, we found we could find a good setup quicker on the Lyrik and it stayed higher in the travel, maintaining the bike’s geometry better while still absorbing the big hits. The RockShox Lyrik won our group test last year and is still the fork to beat. The 2021 model boasts improved performance and is still great value, offering all you could need unless your riding style dictates a super stiff chassis. It takes our Best Buy award.

And then we come to the big hitters. If big-hit stability, rock gardens and sending it at every opportunity is part of your normal riding vocabulary, then you will undoubtedly be drawn to the bigger chassis forks. The Manitou Mezzer is an impressive performer but you will need patience and accurate adjustments to get the best out of it. A champion of mid-stroke support, the Mezzer handles steep trails with effortless composure but the heavy damping never quite delivered the silky-smooth ride we were hoping for. The RockShox ZEB Ultimate also requires accurate pressures to get the best out of it but it’s an easier fork to set up and with its high and supportive ride height, it’s the people’s champion. While not quite as easy to set up at the ZEB, once you have the FOX 38 Factory dialled in, it gives unrivalled small bump compliance without any sacrifice in mid-stroke support. The FOX 38 delivered no matter where we were in the travel and when the going got really tough, it was the fork we all wanted to run, meaning it took the Best in Test award.

BEST IN TEST FOX 38 GRIP2 Factory

The new FOX 38 is more than just a beefed-up 36. Instead, it feels more like a mini 40 with sublime damping and support. Available in 170–180 mm travel, it’s the ideal complement to the latest hard-hitting, gravity-focussed 29er enduro rigs and eMTBs. Overall, for those looking to push their riding very hard in the bike park, the FOX 38 is the best performing enduro fork on the market we’ve tested, taking the Best In Test. Read the full review here .

• amazing stiffness/performance balance
• next level grip and support

• one of our forks creaked
• controls need more defined clicks

BEST BUY RockShox Lyrik Ultimate 2021

The RockShox Lyrik RC2 took our Best in Test in 2018 and the latest Ultimate model is still the standard by which all other forks are measured. The FOX 38 and ZEB may be a better choice for heavy-duty bike park thrashers, but faced with a gnarly natural alpine trail, the Lyrik Ultimate really is all you will need. With sweet-spot performance and an amazing price, the Lyrik is still our top recommendation, taking our Best Buy award. Read the full review here .

• superb sensitivity and performance
• effortless setup

DVO ONYX SC D1

The DVO Onyx is a potent performer, with a stiff chassis and its O.T.T control that allows you to fine-tune the sensitivity without compromising support. The fork feels very well made, and ridden back to back delivers a similar ride quality as the “best buy” RockShox Lyrik. However, it does come with a weight penalty. If you’re looking for something different and something you can tune extensively, then the DVO Onyx will not hold you back. Read the full review here .

• excellent damping
• O.T.T works really well
• HSC is overkill and hard to use
• coil weight despite the air-spring

FOX 36 2021 GRIP2 Factory

On the trail, the FOX 36 Factory feels, well, like a FOX 36. It’s a fork at the very top of its game. The GRIP2 damper gives huge control over the rebound and compression circuits with both high- and low- speed adjustment and once dialled in, grip and support are exceptional. However, it is still a very expensive fork and the competition is hotting up. Read the full review here .

• amazingly balanced performance
• full control over the ride feel
• expensive compared to the Lyrik
• requires experience to set up correctly

Manitou Mezzer PRO

The Manitou Mezzer PRO takes a very different approach to set up and needs more attention to reach its optimum performance. Tuners, or those who are very particular about their setup will love the Manitou Mezzers as it offers almost unlimited control. We found we could dial in huge mid-stroke support without compromising the end of the travel, but we never managed to get the same small bump compliance as the leading forks in the test. Read the full review here .

• infinite tuning options
• great mid- and end-stroke control
• more involved setup
• sensitivity is good but not great

Marzocchi Bomber Z1 Coil

If you are looking for quick setup, maximum grip, minimal maintenance and don’t care about weight, then you can stop reading now. The Marzocchi Bomber Z1 is the fork for you and will also save you a lump of cash. However, the fork is very heavy and adds a considerable amount of weight to the bike. If you fall comfortably in the middle of the spring rate, the Z1 will likely deliver exceptional performance out of the box. Read the full review here .

• very good small bump performance and sensitivity
• more progressive than expected
• performance will depend on suitable spring rate

MRP Ribbon Coil

Overall, the MRP Ribbon Coil proved a comfortable and extremely sensitive trail fork. However, when pushed in rough terrain, more aggressive riders will find it too flexy and lacking in support. If you are looking for a burly enduro fork, we would look elsewhere. Read the full review here .

• smooth small-bump performance
• Ramp Control works to increase end-stroke control
• chassis flex leads to unpredictability
• linear feel and limited support

Öhlins RXF 36 M2 Air

Though having additional air chambers to tune may sound complicated, in practice the Ӧhlins is very easy to set up and performs exceptionally well. Stiffer and higher-performing than the original RXF, the Öhlins RXF 36 M2 is a viable alternative to the big-hitters from FOX and RockShox. With a heavily damped tune, it will be a fork that feels best under heavy or more aggressive riders, getting better the faster you go. Read the full review here .

• very tunable thanks to the Ramp chamber
• excellent support and performance
• heavy damping suits stronger riders
• lacks small bump sensitivity

RockShox ZEB Ultimate

If a RockShox Lyrik isn’t burly enough for you, you will love the RockShox ZEB. The ZEB is super accurate, effortlessly easy to set up and delivers an aggressive price point. It’s a fork for those who measure air time in seconds, or who can push the O-ring to the top on corners. However, with minimal compliance, you need to ride hard to get the best from it. For most, the Lyrik will be the more rounded choice. Read the full review here .

• easy to get a good setup
• stiffest fork on test for crazy accuracy
• you have to ride it hard
• never really shines

More important articles for you to check out

In addition to this group test, we have a number of important suspension-related articles for you to check out. Here’s our ultimate guide to setting up your MTB suspension , our group test of the best shock pumps and how to prevent arm pump . Be sure to check them out!

All forks on test : DVO Onyx SC D1 | FOX 36 2021 Grip2 Factory | FOX 38 2021 Grip2 Factory | Manitou Mezzer PRO | Marzocchi Bomber Z1 Coil | MRP Ribbon Coil | Öhlins RXF36 M2 Air | RockShox Lyrik Ultimate 2021 | RockShox ZEB Ultimate

Did you enjoy this article? If so, we would be stoked if you decide to support us with a monthly contribution. By becoming a supporter of ENDURO, you will help secure a sustainable future for high-quality mountain bike journalism. Click here to learn more .

Words: Photos: Finlay Anderson

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Best mountain bike forks: XC, trail and enduro forks reviewed and rated

• Mick Kirkman
• January 10, 2024

With fork technology evolving, the singletrack is getting faster and faster - our pick of the best mountain bike forks will help you run smoother.

If you’re looking to make a significant improvement to a mountain bike’s ride quality, upgrading to the best mountain bike suspension forks is a smart option. The top models are likely to be one of the biggest investments you’ll make, but they pack the potential to totally transform your riding experience.

Fox Float 38 Performance Elite offers all the adjustments of the Factory model, at a slightly cheaper price.

1. Fox Float 38 Performance Elite

Best enduro and e-bike fork.

Weight: 2,360g | Travel: 160-180mm | Wheel sizes : 27.5 or 29in | Rating: 10/10

Reasons to buy:

• Supple yet supportive
• Ample adjustability
• Even light riders are well catered for now

Reasons to avoid:

• Yep, you guessed it: price tag
• Can get lost in the adjustments if you don’t know what you’re doing

Fox’s flagship single-crown fork is also our ultimate upgrade choice. As long as you have the budget, this burly-legged bruiser takes the roughest tracks in its stride. It’s more sensitive and slightly more composed than the RockShox Zeb, even if the adjustments are not quite as user-friendly. Indeed, in back-to-back testing at BikePark Wales, the 38 clearly had the edge over the RockShox Zeb on the same tracks on the same day, to the point we started to think that our Zeb was in need of a service.

As long as you’re careful and methodical with the dials, you can dial-in this fork exactly how you want it, and then its just a case of hammering as hard as you can, because the Fox 38 just keeps on coming back for more.

Read our full test review of the Fox Float 38 Performance Elite

Fox 36 Factory GRIP2 is perfect for most riders and even works well on e-bikes up to 160mm travel.

2. Fox 36 Factory GRIP2

Best trail bike fork.

Weight: 2,220g | Offset: 44mm or 51mm (29in), 37 or 44mm (27.5in) | Travel: 150 or 160mm | Rating: 10/10

• The best ever 36 by far
• Smooth and delicate everywhere
• Premium price tag over rivals
• Kashima coating looks great but doesn’t really transform performance

While it’s tempting to assume you need the extra strength and stiffness of the stout 38, many riders will actually be better off on the erstwhile 36. Why? Well it’s lighter and the chassis is still plenty stiff enough at popular trail bike travel. And the slimmer legs can actually help reduce harshness on mega-stiff carbon e-bike frames.

It still gets the same soft initial touch and reliable support as the 38, and the adjustments are just as wide and effective. We love the new chassis with its lower leg lubrication channels, that splash oil over the bushings and seals to keep it smooth and sensitive. And the pressure bleeders are a useful addition on hot days and long descents. Even the new dropouts can really help reduce binding and keep the ensure you’re maximising performance. As we said in our review, “the latest Factory 36 feels like floating in a bath of oil, but also informs enough about the terrain to ride precisely and actively by never being too wallowey or mushy”. So there you have it.

Read our test of Fox 36 Factory GRIP2 fork

For half the price of the most expensive forks, Marzocchi’s Bomber Z2 Rail delivers excellent performance.

3. Marzocchi Bomber Z2 Rail

Best value fork.

Weight: 2,010g | Offset: 44mm, 51mm | Travel: 100, 120, 130, 140, 150mm | Wheel sizes : 27.5 or 29in | Rating: 9/10

• Simple to set up
• Lots of grip
• Stiff chassis
• Great price-to-performance ratio
• Carrying some extra weight
• Lacking a bit of support
• Basic adjustments

Essentially a Fox 34 Rhythm in drag, the Marzocchi Bomber Z2 Rail offers excellent performance and low-maintenance at an affordable price. Everything is built big and burly to last, so it’s not the lightest fork on the block, but it needs less time in the workshop and less fettling by the trail-side to set-up.

Given the price, the Z2 is a surprisingly capable fork and responds well to being ridden hard. The highlights are the grip as there’s very little harshness, and it feels solid and secure landing big jumps and drops. As such it fits Marzocchi’s image as a freeride brand. To lift a quote from our review, “if you just want minimal faff and maximum ride time, the Z2 is ideal”.

Read our full test test review of Marzocchi Bomber Z2 Rail fork

RockShox SID Ultimate blurs the lines between XC and trail riding.

4. RockShox SID Ultimate

Best xc and down-country fork.

Weight: 1,508g | Offset: 44mm | Wheel size: 29in | Travel: 120mm | Rating: 10/10

• Great combination of low weight and supple performance
• Doesn’t ride like an uptight XC fork
• Price tag isn’t very light
• Needs regular servicing
• Not the stiffest fork if you charge hard

In many ways, we think the SID is the best fork in RockShox’s current range. It’s impressively light, bringing noticeable and significant weight savings, yet it’s sensitive, supportive, and stout enough for rallying hard. To spearhead a top down-country chassis, such as the Transition Spur , it’s a match made in heaven.

We’re mainly talking about the 35mm version, with 120mm travel, leaving the skinnier 32mm option for racing only. There’s a bit of flex under extreme loads, but given the SID’s weight and remit, it’s perfectly acceptable. Overall, the SID is an incredibly impressive fork that arguably bridges the gap between the masochistic world of XC racing and the baggy shorted smile-time of trail riding.

Read our full test review of the RockShox SID Ultimate

For simple set-up and a stout chassis, the RockShox Zeb Ultimate is a great choice. 

5. RockShox Zeb Ultimate

Best fork for easy of set-up.

Weight: 2,280g | Wheel sizes: 27.5 or 29in | Travel: 150-190mm | Offsets : 38mm, 44mm (27.5in), 44mm, 51mm (29in) | Rating: 9/10

• Great option for e-bikes and/or heavier riders
• Damping not quite as amazing as rival forks

Although the Zeb is slightly less adjustable than its rival Fox 38, it is a bit lighter, and more importantly is cheaper. There’s no lack of stiffness, so it’s a great upgrade for a long-travel e-bike if you’re a heavier rider.

The damper is easily adjustable, with dials that can be tuned like an amplifier, rather than endlessly rotated as you try to remember the clicks. And the adjustments really make a noticeable difference, too. Which encourages you to make changes on-the-fly and really dial in your set-up. Having ridden loads of Zebs and just as many Fox 38s, our experience is that the RockShox product has more damping and a more stuck-to-the ground feel, compared to the 38’s supple yet supportive response.

Read our full test review of the RockShox Zeb Ultimate

The icing on the cake of any short travel trail bike: The Fox 34 Float Factory.

6. Fox 34 Float Factory GRIP2

Best lightweight trail fork.

Weight: 1,770g | Offset: 44mm, 51mm | Travel: 130mm, 140mm | Wheel sizes : 27.5 or 29in | Rating: 10/10

• Four-way adjustable GRIP2 damper
• More sensitivity off-the-top
• Increased mid-stroke support
• Higher price point than rivals

34 diameter upper tubes may seem weedy in a world of 38mm options, but for most trail bikes with 130-140mm travel, they have ample stiffness. And the pinnacle of the trail bike fork market is the Fox 34 Factory, thanks to its impeccable damping and perfectly tuned air spring.

The performance of the 34 is exceptionally fluid and controlled, so it provides ample comfort and never gets flustered. The new chassis helps circulate the oil for improved consistency, and the four-way damping adjustments mean you can always get the right tune. Not a cheap prospect, but the ultimate performance usually comes at a cost.

Read our full test review of the Fox 34 Float Factory GRIP2

Smooth as silk: The Cane Creek Helm Coil MKII

7. Cane Creek Helm Coil MKII

Best coil-sprung trail fork.

Weight: 2,400g | Offset: 44mm | Travel: 130-160 (internally adjustable) | Rating: 9/10

• One of the best at beating trail chatter
• Sheer traction levels from that coil spring
• Coil adds weight

Coil-sprung forks are a rarity these days, but Cane Creek puts up a convincing argument that they still deserve a place at the top table. The Helm Air MKII comes in both air and coil options, and we’ve tested both, and rated them highly, but its the coil version that really got us excited. It also stands out as one of the few coil options on the market. So why the hype? Well, in our review we were blown away by the quality of damping and reduction in harshness. In turn, that meant more control and less fatigue, so we could take stupid lines, and push harder for longer. It was almost like cheating.

Yes, the coil spring adds weight and doesn’t have the breadth of convenient adjustability of an air spring, but if you’re looking for something left-field, and are already sold on the advantages of coil-sprung shocks, the Cane Creek Helm Coil could be the perfect complement.

Read our test of Cane Creek Helm Coil MKII

Which is the best fork? The suspense is killing me…

How we tested mountain bike forks

With plenty of time to put these forks through their paces, we ended riding everywhere from uplift days at BikePark Wales, Dyfi Bike Park and Revolution Bike Park, to big days out hammering Lake District bedrock. The forks here also either did extended time on Alpine riding trips, being pummelled by 10,000s of metres descending, or faced accelerated forces bolted to various all- mountain e-bikes.

All forks were then back-to-back tested systematically on the same bike (in the dry for maximum speeds and loads) on a local test track. The track we chose had a good mix of steep, twisty ruts up top and then high-speed, beaten-up braking bumps and berms towards the bottom. It’s a track known intimately to all test riders and chosen for how hard it works even a modern suspension fork.

RockShox’s latest and greatest Zeb Ultimate fork

Know the best mountain bike forks:

With suspension brands continually updating their products for improved performance, fork technology is a constantly evolving landscape. Leading players like Fox and RockShox will be familiar as original equipment on complete bike packages, while he smaller firms here have big ambitions for a slice of the aftermarket pie. With trickle-down development from oher areas such as motocross and rallying, there’s a really broad approach to design, technology and tunability among the brands represented.

Considering a fork literally just has to slide up and down to absorb bumps and stabilise the rider, a huge amount of R&D and technology lurks inside. Chassis stiffness, weight, damper architecture, seal and bushing friction, and adjustability are just some of the factors suspension engineers strive to improve. Forks also have to work for a wide range of rider styles and weights.

Most high-end forks come with mind-boggling adjustability, but whether you’re a suspension expert, or you just want to enjoy more speed, comfort and control, for this buyer’s guide put in the hard miles to really get to the bottom of which model delivers ultimate performance on the trail.

Digital shock pump

Air-sprung forks support rider weight with a tuneable air cushion. Air pressure is added via a Schrader valve with a specific high-pressure shock pump to tune ride feel and adjust spring rate and support.

Fox 38 volume spacer

Volume spacers

These aren’t used on every fork, but tweaking the size of the (positive) air chamber by adding or removing volume spacers (or in-built systems to do the same) affects the spring curve. More spacers increases spring progression and helps prevent harsh bottom-outs, while fewer spacers (a larger internal volume) softens the end stroke. Öhlins uses a separate, third, ramp-up chamber to tune progressivity.

External adjusters

External adjustment

Dials on the top and bottom of the fork legs adjust parameters to tune support and control. Separate damping dials allow specific tuning options as to how much oil is allowed through ports and shims inside to absorb impacts, but more options also introduce more opportunities to mess up settings. Having said that, most suspension brands and bike companies now offer decent tuning guides according to body weight, and these will give you a good start point to work from.

Stanchion diameter is an important metric for overall stiffness, with thicker fork legs generally adding weight. Bushing size and overlap, plus crown and brace construction also affect rigidity. Tapered steerer tubes are the norm – 1 1/8in to 1.5in at the base. Lower-leg assemblies use cast magnesium to save weight, and all forks here use a Boost 110mm axle spacing with quick- release-style or Allen-key fixings.

Positive and negative springs

Within the air spring there are typically two separate elements balancing breakaway friction and small-bump sensitivity against support. A negative spring pushes back against the main positive spring, and either takes the form of a separate (automatically equalising) air chamber or a coil spring.

Fork rake or offset has evolved as an important design element. Most brands now offer two different offsets in each wheel size, ranging from 37mm up to 51mm. It’s complicated, but offset affects steering feel and tyre stabilising force, so shorter offsets offer more stability and a ride quality that emulates a slacker head angle, while still keeping the bike’s wheelbase shorter.

Compression damping

Compression damping controls the rate at which displaced damper fluid is allowed to move during bump events. Low-speed controls low shaft-speed impacts like body weight shifts and rolling terrain, and high- speed damping absorbs harsh impacts like square bump faces and landings. Forcing oil through ports or shim stacks generates damping resistance, with energy converted into heat.

High Speed Rebound, Low Speed Rebound

Rebound damping

This is the damping circuit that controls the speed that the fork returns to sag after a bump event. Low-speed damping is the most common external adjustment. The damping circuit uses orifices and shim stacks to regulate the oil flow – ports can be opened or closed and shims made stiffer or softer. Some systems also act ‘dynamically’ and respond differently according to the shaft speeds (the speed the legs slide up or down).

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2020 Fox 36 Fork Review

Both the Fox 36 and Rockshox Lyrik have truly set the benchmark for long travel single crown mountain bike suspension forks . As they continue to evolve, Fox and Rockshox are both working towards the magic combination of ultimate trail performance and reliability. For this review, we are taking a look at the 2020 Fox 36 fork . With an updated FIT4 damper and an award winning FIT GRIP2 damper, the Fox 36 is one of the most versatile forks on the market. You will find the 36 on the top of the podium in both Crankworx Slopestyle with Brett Rheader and the Enduro World Series with Martin Maes. We know the 36 is impressive, but we want to know how impressive. Here we go!

Fox 36 Fork Specifications

The 36 fork is a staple in Fox's lineup of mountain bike suspension. You will find the 36 on everything from dirt jump bikes, your weekend warriors' every day trail bike, to race winning enduro world series bikes. The 36, just like it sounds, uses 36mm upper tubes for a stiff and rigid chassis. This fork is now offered in a variety of different configurations at different price points. The FIT GRIP2 damper is a 4 way adjustable sealed cartridge damper with Fox's new Variable Valve Control. Check out our full review of the GRIP2 damper ! The alternative FIT4 damper gets an overall for 2020 that is aimed to improve sensitivity while maintaining mid stroke support. 

The 36 is still offered in either 100mm wide or 110mm Boost axle configurations. With different travel options ranging from 150 to 180mm for both the 27.5 and 29 chassis, the Fox 36 is one of the most versatile forks on the market. Below you'll find more technical information on the Fox 36.

The Bike Setup

For this particular review, we are riding the 2020 Fox 36 fork with the Grip2 damper, 160mm of travel, 15x110mm Boost axle, and 44mm offset . The fork is mounted up to an all new Santa Cruz Hightower with 140mm or rear wheel travel. The bike is outfitted with Industry Nine Enduro 305 wheels with Maxxis DHR II EXO+ casing tires . Finished off with Sram Eagle XX1 AXS drivetrain and the new Deity Skywire carbon handlebars , this bike is ready for it all. 

Riding and Performance

In 2019, Fox introduced the all new 4 way adjustable Grip 2 damper. The new damper design uses Fox's Variable Valve Control (VVC), a new way to control the high speed rebound damping by changing valve stiffness instead of adding preload to a shim stack. So what does that mean out on the trail? The fork's job is actually more about keeping your tire in contact with the ground giving you grip. Your arms and legs are there to absorb those big impacts. The Grip 2 damper seen in both the Fox 36 and Fox 40 is effectively more sensitive all without riding lower in the travel. Riding the 36 on the new Hightower, the Grip 2 damper allows you to ride the bike in the sweet spot of the travel without sacrificing grip or suspension sensitivity. That can be a tough balance to find sometimes and the latest Fox 36 makes tuning and setup easy.

One aspect of performance that is important to consider is the chassis. The 36 is definitely on the stiffer side of the spectrum compared to other options out there. Compared to the Rockshox Lyrik, when you point the front end where you want to go, the Fox 36 will take you there. The drawback to that is, the chassis is stiff enough that if you get yourself in tough spot out on the trail, the 36 might have your front wheel pinging off rocks and roots. There is a balance between stiffness/responsiveness and compliance/comfort and this is one aspect of performance that separates the Fox 36 from its competitors. 

What's The Bottom Line?

The Fox 36 is a top of the line contender for the most capable mid to long travel suspension fork on the market. The damping performance with the Grip 2 damper is a major improvement from its predecessor, keeping your tire in contact with the ground, and the 36 chassis allows you to be direct, precise, and assertive out on the trail. One thing different about the Fox 36 compared to other forks out there like the Rockshox Lyrik is that the chassis isn't as much designed for pure comfort as it is the aggressive rider. The Fox 36 is meant to be ridden hard and that's where it shines.

September 23, 2019

36 › Fork › Fox › product review ›

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Long Live Fun

Regular price $499.00.

Unit price / per 

When mountain bike suspension first hit the ground, things were simpler. The best bike was the one you were riding; uphill, downhill, quick laps or all-day epics. The Bomber Z2 revives this purist mindset with a smooth and plush mountain bike fork that’s ready to ride out of the box. Trail riders rejoice — your Bomber, low maintenance, high durability solution is here, and it’s packing a new RAIL damper. Long live fun.

Stiff 34mm chassis for precise steering and traction

Updated and intuitive Rail Damper, now with pressure balancing

 Simple rebound adjustment for the set-and-forget rider

Travel options from 140-150mm (27.5), 100-140mm (29)

44mm rake with option of 51mm in 29

AVAILABLE COLORS: Matte Black or Gloss Red TRAVEL: 120mm, 130mm 140mm, 150mm WHEELSIZE: 27.5", 29" RAKE: 44mm AXLE: 15QRx110 DAMPING: RAIL SPRING: Air CHASSIS: 34 mm Black Anodized STEERER: 1.5" Tapered Aluminum Weight: 2,043 g

Tuning & Product Manuals

Bomber Z2 Tuning Guide

Marzocchi Fork Owners Guide

At Marzocchi, we take pride in the products we build and care about your product working the way that we designed them to work.If you’ve purchased a Marzocchi product we’ll do our best to find you a solution through our warranty program. Our warranty policy covers all manufacturing defects for the original owner. Marzocchi products are designed and engineered to withstand some of the harshest riding conditions. That being said, these products have a lifetime and will deteriorate over time and may require service to maximize its performance and functionality. Your Marzocchi Warranty Technician will evaluate the failed product and consider factors such as age, riding hours, intended use of product and use environment when determining a warranty claim. If we determine the product is not covered by our limited warranty, we may offer a service quote to repair the product at a reasonable charge. For full warranty information, please click  here .

Less is More

The intuitive and updated Rail damper receives a pressure balanced tune and holds its own against higher end fork dampers, without the pricey bells and whistles. A simple sweep adjuster can lock out for the climbs, open up for the descents and easily adjust to every type of terrain in between.

Performance Where it Matters

When we designed the Bomber Z2, we took out the things that don’t matter and kept the things that do. That means fewer clicky dials, but all the on-trail performance of a stiff chassis and butter-smooth Rail damper, from top to bottom.

The Go Anywhere, Do (Pretty Much) Everything MTB Fork

The Bomber Z2 is built to get out the door and ride. No extensive setup procedure or inconvenient service schedules. Trail riding never felt this uncomplicated. Focus on what’s important — having fun on your bike.

…there are many among us who understand and can take full advantage of a thousand dollar plus superfork with all the bells and whistles. I'm one of them, but Marzocchi just proved that I don't have to.  PinkBike

The Z2 nearly matches the performance of forks that cost hundreds more by getting rid of aesthetic frills and making the fork simpler. singletracks.com

Anyone who wants near top-shelf performance, a manageable price, a simple design that won't require a ton of specialty tools to service and won't notice a few extra grams should get along very well with the Bomber Z2. Worldwide Cyclery

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Results have arrived, mtb travel - how much mtb suspension travel do you need what does it mean.

Do you want more suspension travel or less? How do you know how much you need? Here's how to decide whether a long-travel or short-travel MTB is better for you and your trails.

Written by: Bruce Lin

Published on: Mar 9, 2022

Posted in: MTB

You’re going to a big, important party, but you’re iffy about the dress code. Would you rather show up overdressed or underdressed?

A lot of mountain bikers face a similar dilemma, but instead of choosing the right clothes, it’s about choosing the right bike. You've probably heard certain bikes described as “too much bike” or “not enough bike.” But what does that mean?

In mountain biking, suspension travel often receives the most attention when riders are looking at bike specs. Depending on your skill, riding style, and terrain, there is likely an ideal amount of suspension travel. Other specs such as geometry , wheels , and tires  matter too, but they are usually tailored to match a bike's suspension.

Most modern mountain bikes will have somewhere between 100mm and 170mm of suspension travel. This covers everything from cross-country race machines to versatile mid-travel trail bikes to hard-hitting enduro bikes . (If you want to learn more about how mountain bikes are categorized check out our Mountain Bike Buyer’s Guide .)

So what's the right amount of travel for you?

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MTB travel basics: what is travel on a mountain bike?

In case you're new to riding, mountain bike suspension travel is a measurement of how much a wheel can move to absorb bumps. On the front, mountain bike travel comes from your suspension fork. At the rear, MTB travel is provided by some configuration of frame pivots that compress a rear shock.

When to choose a long-travel MTB

Long-travel bikes usually have 150-170mm of rear travel to handle tough downhill trails. Front travel often matches rear travel but sometimes can be more.

Trail and enduro bikes fall into this category. They absorb big hits and smooth out rough terrain. If you regularly ride steep or gnarly trails, a bike like this makes a lot of sense. 

If you're mostly riding mellow flow trails though, a big and burly long-travel bike might be overkill. You won't be able to use all the suspension travel you paid for. The bike may feel cumbersome, maybe a bit boring, and you’ll have to expend more energy to push it around and climb uphill.

But let’s say you lack confidence on descents. A more capable enduro bike with ample suspension travel could help you enjoy riding more by increasing your confidence, comfort, and giving you more margin for error. 

Some ride big and burly bikes everywhere because they're fit enough to pedal a long-travel bike up big climbs and on long rides without much trouble. For them, being overbiked isn't a handicap, and it's worth it for when the trail gets gnarly. If you care more about descending as fast as possible more than having a bike that's efficient for pedaling or climbing, long-travel bikes will cater more to your style.

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When to choose a short-travel MTB

Short-travel bikes usually have 100-120mm of travel to maximize efficiency. In some cases, these bikes could have forks with 10-20mm more travel to make them more versatile on descents.

XC and short-travel trail bikes fall into this category. They are efficient and usually feel more agile than longer-travel bikes. If you race cross-country, do long adventure rides, or stick to mellow trails, these are the best option.

If you venture onto steep and gnarly downhill tracks with big rocks and jumps, a short-travel bike will start to feel sketchy. There’s a good chance you’ll have to ride slower and more cautiously than you would on a long-travel bike, taking easier lines and occasionally skipping tough sections.

But let’s say you dread going uphill and are constantly getting dropped by fitter riders. A bike with less travel that’s lighter and more efficient could help you go faster and expend less energy. 

If you’re a skilled rider that just wants to make riding more exciting, short-travel bikes provide a lot more trail feedback and give you less room for error. You have to stay focused, be more selective about lines, and be more active with your body. For some, this can be a more enjoyable ride experience than just sitting back and letting a long-travel bike do the hard work for you.

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So how much suspension travel do I need?

Seth H., Merchandising Manager   "I started on an XC hardtail and rode everything, even gnarly downhills on it. It had a dropper and I did just fine. I really thought it was all I would ever need. Then I went to Moab. I rode a borrowed enduro bike on The Whole Enchilada and it kind of opened my eyes. I bought a bigger bike not long after and started riding all my regular trails again. It changed how I rode.

"Personally, I really don’t mind being overbiked for most of my riding now. I ride alone a lot so I go my own pace. But I'm also decently fit and I can keep up with everyone I ride with on my bigger bike (an Ibis Ripmo). If you’re fit, I say go as big as you want."

Chad H., Warehouse Manager   "I would prefer to be underbiked on the majority of trails. Being underbiked keeps the skills sharp and makes the trail an exciting challenge. I feel that being overbiked takes the challenge and excitement out of trails. It leads to laziness and dulls your skill as a rider.

"Right now for me, I believe the best bike for 85 percent of the riding I do will be a full suspension cross country bike, like the Santa Cruz Blur. I would add a dropper seatpost and Fox Step-Cast 34 120mm fork just to give it a tiny bit more capability. Or the new Trek Top Fuel, or possibly a Yeti SB100 are good options. It's what people are calling 'downcountry' now, even though I hate the term. It will be a little bit more capable than a full cross country bike, but it’ll have the same quick handling and speed. That'll be perfect for me." 

What about mid-travel "quiver-killer" mountain bikes?

I always keep at least two mountain bikes in my quiver: a long-travel enduro bike and a short-travel XC bike. This lets me tackle everything from downhill bike parks to short-track XC races. But for many riders, a mid-travel trail bike is all you need.

Mid-travel bikes are a good compromise between downhill performance and pedaling/climbing efficiency. They usually have 120-140mm of travel. Many call these bikes "quiver-killers," because they can do it all (well, almost). I even spent a full season on a quiver-killer , just to see how well it worked for a wide range of riding and was pleasantly surprised by how versatile it actually was.

However, these bikes don't completely excel at anything. A longer-travel bike will be better downhill and a shorter travel bike will be more efficient for racing. Ultimately, if you can only have one bike for casual riding, or you're unsure what type of mountain bike you need for your local trails, this category is the best option. 

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How to choose a mountain bike

Are your trails rough and rocky or smooth and flowy? Are they fast and steep or tight and technical? Your terrain has a big impact on bike selection. Generally, the rougher, steeper, and faster a trail is, the more travel you'll want and vice versa. 

The second step is to know yourself. Your riding ambition is nearly as important as terrain. If you are a ripper who lives for downhills, you'll probably want to support yourself with more travel. But if your ride fantasy involves conquering high mountains, and exploring miles of backcountry trails, you might want to stay light and efficient with less travel.

No matter what, it's possible to have fun riding any bike, and having the ideal amount of suspension travel isn't everything. Keep in mind too that the rider is always going to make a far bigger difference than the bike. Fast descenders drop me on gnarly downhills riding XC hardtails, and fit climbers drop me on uphills riding heavy enduro machines. Good riders take what they have, and make it work. 

That being said, you can always play to your strengths or weaknesses. Having a bike that enhances the parts of riding that you care about the most will make mountain biking more fun. 

Are you overbiked or underbiked for your trails? Do you prefer long travel or short travel? Or do you have a bike that sits somewhere in the middle? Let us know in the comments!

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Technical & maintenance, long travel trail forks: the lowdown, we look at what long travel trail forks can do and which ones we think work best. words by steve jones..

We look at what long travel trail forks can do and which ones we think WORK the best…

Taken from Dirt Issue 63, May 2007

The heyday of the development of telescopic dampers is now almost fifty years behind us. Even before that the first improvements in the evolution of special formulas of the working fluid in these units (fork oil) was invented by Esso technologists back in the 1940’s. That technology was used primarily for motorcycles. It was long time ago. Why then is it only ten years ago that the first serious suspension fork was introduced on to the market to mountainbikers…the Z1 Bomber?

Even for a company like Marzocchi , who have been making suspension since the forties, it took a while to realise that in the 150 years we’ve been riding bicycles off road it’s a while, with a big W. When things did start moving Olivier Bossard, a key man in the success of the Sunn team who had a strong motocross background, saw that some of the early suspension from RockShox “just didn’t work” and by the mid nineties had introduced his own piston design onto the forks of a bicycle. “I saw potentially huge amounts of performance increases that could be made at the time,” says Bossard.

Sunn suspension was almost all his own work. Many companies continued the view that bicycles were completely different to motorcycles, but paradigms aside, absorbing shocks from the track and providing a comfortable ride was, and is, the main function of cycle suspension. There are other reasons naturally. To improve handling for example, because without damping an unsprung bike because of its inertia would prevent the bike from following the terrain, it would spend most of the time in the air.

So yes, although a broad generalisation, there have been moments in the past twenty years in particular when the overwhelming need of mountainbike suspension is to enable us to go quicker, over bumps, off road. Why not? It’s a mountainbike.

Well, not any longer it seems because the need to go rigid or with less travel is as important as travelling with more. We want to lock them out, step them down, slow them up and almost suffocate the very essence of why they were introduced to a bicycle. Suspension companies are almost saying less is better and rigid is a must. Crazy.

It’s an upside down sport because the opposite also applies. Many riders and manufacturers want bikes with little or no travel to go faster downhill. Hardtails with six and a half inches of travel, six inch bikes with four inches of travel up front and six inch forks being bolted to skinny unprepared cross country bikes to give the rider better downhilling experience without for a second considering geometry balls ups. One rider recently told me “I want downhill performance on my cross country bike”. (Visions of a rider fighting to get some weight on front wheel of the newly chopped out bike as his mate with a four inch Specialized Epic with a downhill wheelbase scoots past).

Forks. They’re beautiful items of equipment. Throwing away, or at least forgetting for a moment the crazy bolt ons, modern forks are heavenly gifts for enabling us to go faster. Remove the obsessive adjustment culture with modern suspension and all the associated technology of travel and six-inch bikes, and you’ll find they are ridden by both the fit and angry to maximum effect, and the slow and sedate as means of cushioning.

And it’s a great feeling buying new forks, one of the biggest changes you can make to your bike short of having a re-spray. There are the choices you have to make: brand, features, technology, travel. Long travel trail forks can, unlike the name suggests, be used for blasting it down pretty rough tracks. Ideally they would be bolted on to a similarly sprung and suitably angled bike. With most companies manufacturing to within 20mm on a variety of frame designs there seems little point in using them for anything other than off road terrain from forest loops to real mountain hardware.

In our recent review on mid travel bikes we found that most of the favoured bikes are capable of most things but held back in their ability on the much rougher ground. Very simply it was the fork that was the biggest limiter in the bikes ability to descend. Bigger forks, better downhill. Of course on the other hand most five to six inch bikes with a simple switch of fork and wheelset transforms a bike from heavy bruiser to lightweight dancer. It depends what you ride and how long you ride for.

Over the past ten years we have been told year on year by the press and manufacturers of the improvements in fork technology. Since the beautiful Bomber Z1 of 1997 the mechano–evolutionary book should now be piled full of some pretty advanced (and reliable) pieces of equipment. Well, we still have plastic, metal, rubber and oil in the mix for certain, and yes the internals of 100mm up front no longer comprises of the stuff that seal wine bottles plus a little bit of butter, but the reality is still a catalogue of knocking, wobbling and stanchion wear as reliable as the ‘10s’ being dished out in some of the press.

Whilst fork reliability across the ranges does seem to be slowly migrating in the right direction, the story for some of the lesser lights is that they’re pretty much on a one–way trip to nowhere city. And as for price, well when you compare the fact that you can buy a good quality all mountain hardtail with 130mm forks for £799 to the price of many forks, it’s obvious there’s a little bit of piss taking going on somewhere.

Long travel trail forks then. Easy. Pick half a dozen of the best and stick them in with a quick review. Simple…two days later I’m faced with a list of up to a hundred forks with an average travel upwards of five inches. I’ve clearly made a mistake. A very big one.

From the simplicity and remoteness of downhill to this…absolute inner city madness. Yet this surely should be the land of simplicity? Shouldn’t it? Four forks pretty much rule the downhill world. Long travel trail? Take a look at this.

HANDLING AND STEERING – THE ESSENTIALS OF OFF ROAD RIDING

Nearly seventy forks without even bringing in Pace, Magura, Maverick and White Bros. But before you get your cash out consider first your bike. Changes to steering, wheelbase and bottom bracket are just some of the affects of changing fork length. In some cases a well-designed hardtail is going to be quicker than a four-inch bike with six-inch forks. That said it’s quite possible to run a Cannondale Prophet on any of the above forks from a minimum of 130mm and upto160mm to produce two quite different bikes. That inch difference can easily be made up in either sag or tyre sizes each way. It’s also worth remembering of course that the fork is not really the first point of contact on a bike, it’s the tyre. A large volume soft compound tyre will do wonders for the front of a bike shaking at the joints.

On the list RockShox produce the cheapest and lightest 130mm fork, Fox make the most adjustable and most expensive 100mm–160mm. But where for heaven sake do you start with this lot? Technology? Well there never has, or ever will be, any shortage of “amazing stuff coming forward…better than last years” have no fear of that. Travel? There is more up front on most people’s bikes than ever. Service costs? Suspension servicing has become a reasonably sized business.

In fact replacing suspension has become about as common as getting a new pair of shoes; no I’m not saying that the service centres are a bunch of cobblers here, simply the fact that forks are becoming throw away items. Could it also be we’re riding our bikes harder? Maybe World Cup events are a microcosm of what’s happening in fork service centres worldwide? Hardly. At World Cups the Showa man turns up with a handbag, RockShox turn up with a lorry, and Marzocchi…well, they don’t even bother coming.

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Best MTB forks (Double Crown and Single Crown): Your Guide to Superior Suspension

When talking about mountain bike forks, there are two main groups that forks can fall into: single and double crown forks. Double crown forks attach both above and below the head tube, hence the name double crown.

Single crowns mount only below the headtube, meaning that they can be made far lighter, are more manoeuvrable but are less stiff. In general, double crown forks are limited to downhill bikes due to their weight and subsequent difficulty to manoeuvre and pedal. Single crown forks have a much wider application, across disciplines from cross-country to enduro with varying sizes for each purpose.

For this article, by ‘best’ I’ll look at travel, thickness of the stanchions and price of most major brands’ top-of-the-range forks.

Double Crown Fork

Rockshox fork boxxer ultimate charger2.1 rc2 – 27.5″ boost 20×110 200mm red, 36 offset debonair (ziptie fender, 2 btm tokens, star nut & maxle stealth) c2.

First up is the RockShox BoXXer, coming in at $1699. The BoXXer is RockShox’ largest and most rugged fork. It accommodates both 27.5 and 29 inch wheels and comes with 180, 190 or 200 millimetres of vertical travel.

The stanchions have a 35mm diameter, which isn’t as large as those on some competitors’ models. It has external adjustment for both high and low speed compression and uses a token system to manage ramp-up. It weighs just over two and a half kilos on the 27.5”, 200mm model.

The RockShox Maxima Plush fluid claims to silence annoying damper noise, and the new Charger 2.1 damper claims to “reduce hand fatigue and fight unwanted friction”.

MRP Bartlett Dual Crown Air Fork (Black) (27.5″) (15 x 110mm) (49mm Offset) (180mm)

Next is the MRP Bartlett fork, coming in at $1212.99. The Bartlett can accommodate a 27.5 or 29 inch wheel just like the BoXXer, but is only available at 170, 180 and 190 millimetre travel. Subsequently, it weighs ~100g less than the BoXXer, at just under two and a half kilos in the 27.5”, 190mm configuration.

The stanchions are 35mm however only low speed compression can be adjusted externally. Ramp up is controlled externally however, not with tokens that have to be added inside the fork.

The MRP Bartlett can accommodate a 180 millimetre brake rotor and comes with all of the parts required to reduce or increase the travel, as the fork is designed not only for downhill but instead using the “dual-crown design [to] provide space efficiency over a single-crown” which they claim allows for a longer travel despite having a shorter axle to crown length than a single crown fork.

Fox 40 Float Factory GRIP2 2021 Fork

Next is the FOX 40 Float fork. Fox’ largest fork comes in at nearly £1900, which is over $2600 dollars. The fork boasts 203mm of travel and 40mm stanchions. The fork also weighs around 2.8 kilograms, which is far heavier than the prior two forks.

High and low speed compression can be adjusted externally as well as both high and low speed rebound, which is a feature often grouped into one on other manufacturers’ forks.

The fox fork is far heavier than other brands, but is larger than other forks, whilst sporting the ability to fit a massive 230 millimetre brake rotor where others may fall shorter of that.

Emerald – DVO Suspension

Next is the DVO suspension Emerald inverted double crown fork. The DVO uses an uncommon approach by placing the station at the bottom of the fork, rather than having it at the top like other manufacturers. The fork boasts 203mm just like the FOX 40 but has 36mm stanchions, larger than the BoXXer but smaller than the Fox 40.

The DVO Emerald also has a unique tuning system, where the negative spring can be preloaded to provide ramp up separately from the air pressure in the fork. For example, a light rider can run low pressure but reduce the ‘OTT’ (off the top) adjustment to keep the fork from sagging or reduce it to have a more linear travel. The DVO is also listed as costing ~$1500 – $2250, however I have found it to cost £1040 ($1450)

Overall, there are two major competitors in double crown fork production: RockShox with the BoXXer and Fox with the 40 Float. Both are top of the range, high performance forks, with the Fox 40 taking home the first UCI world cup women’s race with Camille Balanche at Leogang this year, and the BoXXer taking home the men’s race with Troy Brosnan. Overall, I would personally be inclined to buy the RockShox BoXXer due to its weight savings and cost savings, being almost $1000 less than the Fox 40 whilst evidently still being a very competitive fork.

Single Crown Fork

Fox racing 38 float performance elite fork – 27.5.

The First fork is the Fox 38 float, with its main draw being its massive 38mm stanchions, much larger than most double crown downhill forks. These wide stanchions give it a very stiff feel and give it a beefy look.

The 170mm travel makes it perfect for rough trails whilst not being cumbersome like a longer alternative or a double crown fork. It weighs just under 2200 grams and can accommodate huge 3 inch tyres and 230mm rotors.

The fox 38 has a lot of external adjustment, with high and low speed compression and high and low speed rebound too. This gives the rider greater control over the fork to give the perfect feel.

The fork is very smooth, aided by the floating axles and that aforementioned stiffness holding the fork straight through its travel. The fork is available on evo.com for $1,149, the most expensive fork on the site.

RockShox ZEB Ultimate Charger 2.1 RC2 Fork – 27.5″

The second fork is the Fox 38s direct competitor, released in response to Fox’s new fork: the RockShox ZEB ultimate. The fork is available from 160 – 190mm in 10mm increments. The forks also have an e-bike specific model called just the ZEB.

It uses 38mm stanchions just like the Fox, giving it amazing stiffness. It is over 20% stiffer than their other flagship fork, the Lyrik. It has additional negative air volume, which makes it resemble a downhill fork in it’s feel. It comes in both 27.5 and 29 inch sizes and is available for $999, $150 less than Fox’s counterpart.

You can adjust high and low speed compression, however rebound is concentrated to one adjustment. The fork accepts tokens to adjust ramp up (when the fork stiffens throughout its travel.) The fork weighs almost 2300 grams, so 100g more than the fox 38. It can accept 3.2” tyres, and a year more warranty than the Fox 38.

Marzocchi Bomber Z1 Coil Fork – 27.5″

Next up is the Marzocchi Bomber Z1 Coil fork. The Marzocchi Bomber shares some of the main chassis with the fox 36, so has stanchions 2mm thinner than the 38 and the ZEB. It boasts a Fox Grip damper but with is coil sprung instead.

If you want a coil spring, this is one of the highest end options. The coil system is suited best for high travel forks as it provides a perfectly smooth travel throughout it’s entire travel. The disadvantage of a coil fork is that the spring must be replaced to truly tune it to the rider’s weight unlike an air fork that you can just pump up or reduce the pressure in.

Using internal spacers, the fork travel can be changed by the rider. As far as external adjustment, you can adjust preload, rebound and it has air assist to control ramp up and to help the fork to stop bottoming out.

The fork is very heavy compared to the other two so far, coming in at over two and a half kilos actually weighing more than the MRP Bartlett, a double crown fork. Coil forks do tend to weigh more, but for those who like the specific feel, the Marzocchi is arguably the highest end option. Coil forks in general are cheaper due to their simplicity and the Marzocchi is no exception, coming in at $779.99 on Evo.com

MRP Ribbon Suspension Fork 27.5 160mm 110×15

The MRP Ribbon is a 160mm fork, with its main selling point being its incredible adjustability. MRP actually developed their ramp up control cartridge back in 2017, and the Ribbon has this same control.

The Ribbon also has both positive and negative air chambers, giving great control over the fork’s performance. It has a pressure relief valve, which keeps the fork performing the same at high altitude and when being ridden especially aggressively.

The fork can only accept 2.3 inch tyres, which is smaller than the other forks, with 27.5” wheel size where the others could accommodate 29” too. The MRP Ribbon also uses their distinctive arch design which may at first look back-to-front, but actually is designed that way so as not to collect mud off the front wheel which can collect making annoying noises whilst adding unnecessary weight to the fork.

In the single crown category , I would personally prefer the RockShox ZEB as it has the advantages of a long travel, 38mm stanchion single crown fork, but for $150 less than Fox’ alternative fork.

Although I think that Fox or Marzocchi have better styling than RockShox and will turn more heads, the value for money on the RockShox ZEB is undeniably better than the Fox 38. It also has more travel by 10mm and at 190mm in a single crown configuration, it definitely is unique.

Overall, if we’re talking in pure downhill performance, I think that the disparity in performance between the FOX 40 and the RockShox BoXXer is so minute that either could be considered the ultimate in downhill racing, but for the average consumer, I think that the BoXXer is just more appealing from the view that it costs almost $1000 less than the Fox 40. Both have been shown to be able to perform incredibly, both taking wins regularly at the world cup downhill.

As far as overall performance, with climbing and downhill in mind, again the Fox 40 and RockShox ZEB are too close to call. The prices are broadly comparable, with the ZEB being cheaper, separated by only a 15% price difference and the ZEB also being slightly longer but at the cost a 5% difference in weight (with the Fox 40 being lighter).

Tim Hunt is an amateur mountain biker from the Surrey Hills area of England. He has been riding and building for many years in and around the Surrey Hills and loves fast and techy descents!

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How much suspension travel do I need on my mountain bike?

From cross-country to downhill, we take you through how much travel you can expect on the major types of mountain bike

Andy Lloyd / Our Media

Mountain bikes feature different amounts of suspension travel depending on the type of riding they're designed for.

Suspension travel describes the amount of movement a suspension fork or rear shock has. It is usually a measurement of how far the wheel axle moves in a vertical or near-vertical plane as the suspension compresses.

Depending on the discipline of riding the bike is designed for, the suspension travel can vary from 80 to 200mm. While more travel may seem better, helping you soak up lumps and bumps, it can be a hindrance if your riding includes lots of climbing or you benefit from a light, responsive bike.

This means deciding on the right amount of travel for your needs can be difficult, but there are a few factors to keep in mind, including your riding style and the type of trails and terrain you'll be tackling.

Bike manufacturers design their mountain bikes around different travel lengths, tailored to specific terrains or riding disciplines, and categorise the bikes accordingly. As a result, looking at the different categories of mountain bikes, their intended application and travel length is a handy way to determine how much travel you need and what bike you should get.

In this guide, we’ll explain the different mountain bike categories and how much suspension travel they typically have.

Cross-country mountain bikes

The best cross-country mountain bikes are designed to compete in high-level, fast races, where lightness and pedalling efficiency are often the keys to success.

Typically, cross-country bikes have featured 80 to 100mm of travel. Because cross-country race courses have become more extreme and technical, it is now common to see bikes designed around 120mm travel front and rear, such as Scott’s Spark RC .

Using less suspension travel than other mountain bikes means cross-country bikes can be built with a lighter frame construction because less reinforcement is needed to deal with the lower frame articulation. This helps riders race up the kinds of inclines that characterise XC races .

The short-travel forks used on cross-country bikes also help to keep weight down because they utilise a lighter chassis and narrower stanchions, usually 30 to 32mm in diameter.

Stanchions are the part of the fork connected to the crown and remain rigid to the bike while the lowers move up and down over them.

The trade-off for this weight saving comes in the form of fork flex, which impacts the directness of steering inputs and the overall ability of the fork to perform in gnarlier terrain as friction levels build on the seals.

A short-travel fork will also run out of travel quicker compared to one with more travel. Although setup and damper performance will dictate a lot of factors in how proficiently it absorbs bumps, less travel means it won't absorb bigger bumps as well as a long-travel fork.

Hardtail mountain bikes are also well-represented in cross-country, because rigid frames allow for the highest pedalling efficiency. However, the traction and descending ability of full-suspension bikes make them desirable to many riders.

Downcountry mountain bikes

Downcountry bikes aim to balance a cross-country bike's efficiency with a trail bike's downhill capability.

‘Downcountry’ is a relatively new mountain bike discipline and isn’t that well defined as a result. But in terms of suspension, these bikes range from beefed up cross-country at 110mm of travel, to lightweight trail with around 130mm front and rear travel.

Having slightly more travel than an outright cross-country bike means downcountry bikes are more capable on descents. However, with shorter travel than trail bikes, they still offer greater pedalling efficiency than burlier bikes.

Downcountry bike frames can be made lighter than trail bikes because the demand on the frame is less. This means they require less material in their construction because they don’t require the same amount of strength as a trail or enduro bike needs.

Downcountry bikes usually feature stronger, stiffer forks, with thicker stanchions, usually 34mm in diameter. This gives higher levels of rigidity to the fork, making steering inputs more direct, although concessions are still made to weight savings.

Trail mountain bikes

Trail bikes are one of the most popular types of mountain bike. They are designed to straddle the line between enduro bikes and cross-country bikes, providing a ride that’s fun but capable.

Confident on descents and fairly capable on climbs, trail bikes typically have between 120 and 160mm of suspension travel.

Trail bikes at the longer end of the suspension-travel spectrum cross the boundary into all-mountain. Typically, these bikes will feature beefier frame construction to deal with the added suspension travel.

The optimum amount of travel depends on what terrain or trails you like to ride, and where you’d like to progress with your riding. 140mm is ideal for even the toughest trail centres, with more travel being required for gnarlier ambitions.

Forks with mid-sized stanchions, either 34mm, 35mm or 36mm in diameter, are common on trail bikes. These shift the balance away from lightness toward rigid stability for better handling while descending. Less flexibility in the fork will mean more direct steering input, making the bike feel more planted through the rough stuff.

Enduro mountain bikes

Enduro bikes are designed to meet the demands of enduro racing , which consists of multiple downhill stages that riders have to reach within a set time limit. As a result, enduro bikes have to perform well on technical descents while providing a decent pedalling platform to get you to the top of the trail in good time.

Travel for enduro bikes starts at 150mm and ranges up to 180mm. There is a 190mm-travel version of RockShox’s enduro-focused ZEB fork, but you’re more likely to see this attached to a freeride or bike park bike.

Enduro bikes require a burly frame construction in order to cope with the demands of downhill trails.

Head tubes have to be stronger to deal with the extra force coming from the long-travel fork, while the rear linkage has to be able to support the extra articulation.

This added frame construction makes the frame heavier, impacting efficiency when going uphill, but the pay-off is worth it when coming back down.

Forks within this travel range prioritise rigidity over weight savings, with thicker stanchions of 36mm to 38mm, providing direct steering inputs and a solid feel as you ride over gnarly terrain.

Downhill mountain bikes

Downhill bikes are designed for, you guessed it, riding downhill. The discipline doesn’t require the bike to be pedalled on uphill or even flat terrain, enabling designers to focus solely on providing the best platform for descending steep and technical trails.

These bikes feature some of the longest suspension travel, ranging from 180 to 200mm, helping to protect riders from large, repeated impacts.

Frames have to be built to the highest strength levels to cope with the impacts you experience on downhill trails. Although downhill frames are heavier than those intended for other disciplines, it's less important to have light frames because you’re not pedalling them uphill.

Downhill forks feature the thickest stanchion, ranging from 35 to 40mm in diameter, because they deal with the most extreme terrain and require the greatest rigidity.

Weight isn’t a big issue for downhill bikes, so the added heft is worth the trade-off for the performance gains.

The forks on downhill bikes have a dual-crown design, meaning the fork mounts above and below the head tube, as opposed to single-crown forks, which mount only from below. This adds more torsional stiffness to the fork, helping to keep steering inputs direct through the toughest terrain and providing strength for big impacts.

Electric mountain bikes

Electric mountain bikes are heavy, even compared to downhill bikes. The added weight a battery and motor bring means frames as well as components have to be engineered to cope with the extra weight – and contribute even more weight to the bike in the process.

Electric bikes can be categorised by the other disciplines featured in this article and will tend to feature the travel of that discipline.

The best electric mountain bikes will feature e-MTB specific forks and shocks, some with thicker stanchions for rigidity, and custom tunes that are suited to the heavier weight of the bike.

Because you’ll have a motor, there won’t be a trade-off in having a bike with more travel (and therefore weight), with the bike taking up the burden on the hills.

What about hardtail mountain bikes?

Hardtail mountain bikes have a suspension fork and a rigid rear end. They can be seen in a variety of disciplines, though are mainly represented in the cross-country and trail disciplines. They are also popular when it comes to budget mountain bikes because the simplicity of their design and less suspension means less cost.

As with other types of mountain bikes, fork travel is usually dependent on discipline. Cross-country hardtails typically have 100mm of travel, but more aggressive hardtails can have suspension travel of up to 150mm.

Some manufacturers will design frames with flex points in the rear triangle, allowing for vertical compliance in the frame. This improves comfort when sat in the saddle, and to a smaller extent rear-wheel traction while climbing.

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What Does TRAVEL Mean on a Mountain Bike: Is More Travel Better?

I love riding my mountain bike down steep hills and off of lifts but I have noticed that even after adjusting my current suspension I am bottoming out on relatively small drops. That is why I decided to upgrade my suspension to have more travel distance. In this guide I will explain what that means for various kinds of bikes and suspension set ups.

What is “Travel” on a Mountain Bike?

Travel is simply the maximum distance that either the front or rear suspension of the Mountain Bike can compress, when absorbing force, before bottoming out. The higher the travel the more force the suspension can comfortably absorb. The lower amount of travel the lower amount of force absorbed.

Types of Mountain Bike Suspension

There are three types of suspension setups that any Mountain Bike might have (I will get into the third later). For right now it is most likely that your bike will either have a “Hard-Tail” or “Full Suspension” setup.

The difference between a hard-tail and a full suspension mountain bike is that on a full suspension bike there is a rear shock absorber as opposed to just the front fork. A hard-tail, therefore, will not have rear suspension components and will simply have a “hard” rear frame.

The differences between hard-tail and full suspension…

Price: A full suspension mountain bike will be much more expensive than a hard-tail mountain bike.

Comfort / Downhill Capability: A full suspension mountain bike is going to be much more comfortable to ride and be able to handle much higher drops. Although, this does come at the cost of reduced ability to put power into the trail.

Weight: A full suspension is going to add the components to your mountain bike so by definition will be heavier than a hard-tail

Maintenance: Again, the more parts you add the more that can go wrong and the more that needs to be adjusted.

Given this distinction between hard-tail and full suspension mountain bikes the next two sections are going to be split between talking about front and rear suspension components.

Suspension is Fun to Talk About

• Mountain Bike Travel – Read What is Travel on a MTB and is More Better?
• What is Lockout on a Mountain Bike Fork – all about when to use it.
• Selecting a MTB fork is confusing, let me help with – C hoosing a Mountain Bike Suspension Fork
• Wheels and Hub widths – Why is this so confusing? Read – How to Adapt a MTB Wheel to a Boost Fork

Front Suspension and Travel Distance on an MTB

The front suspension, or forks, of any mountain bike is going to be split into a few components. The steerer tube which goes into the center of the crown which branches into two stanchions. These stanchions are what slide into the brace and slider which ends in two dropouts that attach to the wheel.

The main way that riders upgrade their front suspension is by increasing the travel of the stanchions. In essence, this is increasing the length of compression that the front suspension withstands. A shorter travel will be more responsive and allow you to put more power into the trail while a longer suspension is better for rough trails and high lifts.

Here is a chart of common travel distances on the front suspension of the mountain bike…

Another thing that is important to keep in mind is the diameter of the stanchion tubes. As the amount of travel increases so does the diameter of the stanchion to maintain durability and stability.

Here is a chart of the common stanchion tube diameters on the front suspension of the mountain bike…

As I mention before, many riders will upgrade their mountain bikes front suspension by increasing the amount of travel that the suspension is capable of. This is really only done in two scenarios as if it is done without thought then it could actually hamper performance.

• When you have anything other than a downhill mountain bike and want to try to imitate one.
• This one kind of ties in with the previous. But, travel distance is increased when a rider desires a more comfortable ride and intends to do mostly downhill riding with large drops. If there is a large amount of uphill riding then a long travel will only make it more difficult to ride the bike.

Something that is often mentioned on MTB suspension is a “Lockout” I explained what it is and when to use your lockout in another article on this website: What is a Lockout Fork and When to Use It

Rear Suspension and Travel Distance

Now this is where things can get really complicated. This is because there are around five main rear suspension designs that manufactures implement in mountain bikes. They are as follows…

Single Pivot: In this design the rear shock of the mountain bike is connected to a swingarm by the titular single pivot point located just above the chain rings. This is the simplest rear suspension design and therefore is often the cheapest to manufacture.

The downside of the design is that the compression is going to be consistent throughout the travel of the shock as opposed to some newer designs which increase the stiffness of the rear shock as it becomes more and more compressed to hopefully prevent bottoming out.

Linkage-Driven Single Pivot: In this design there is still a swingarm connected to a single pivot point. The difference is that there is some kind of linkage which allows the manufacturers to manipulate the compression curve which was previously constant throughout the travel.

Horst-Link / Four Bar: Put simply, the rear axle of the mountain bike is not directly connected to the mainframe of the bike. This will reduce pedal bob (the bob that comes from the rhythmic nature of pedaling) and will also allow the manufacturer to manipulate the compression arc (amount of force needed to compress throughout the travel of the shock.

Twin-Link / Virtual Pivot Point: This design implements a triangular design that connects to the mainframe by two pivoting links. This design performs very similar to the Horst-Link but is not patented so is often cheaper to manufacture.

High Pivot: This is the same as the single pivot with the exception that the pivot point is placed much higher on the frame. There is also the addition of an idler pully which routs the path of the chain above the pivot point as to eliminate what would otherwise result in extremely high levels of pedal bob.

Can I Put 27.5-inch Wheels on a 26-inch Wheel MTB?

Should I Buy a 26-Inch Mountain Bike?

Who is a 26-Inch Mountain Bike Good For?

The rear shock and how it is sized.

The rear shock of the mountain bike is comprised of a single compression chamber as opposed to the front suspension which relies on two. The shock is placed horizontal (Often with a slight diagonal tilt) to the ground, again as opposed to the front suspension which is placed vertically to the ground.

Furthermore, the rear shock attaches to the frame of the bike by two eyelets which is actually how they (the shocks) are sized. Although, the same style shock is used no matter the design of your rear suspension.

Finding the Correct Eye-to-Eye Length of a Mountain Bike Rear Shock:

To find the eye-to-eye distance measure from the center of one pivot eyelet on the shock to the second one. This distance is the eye-to-eye length that you must use to find correctly sized rear shocks for your mountain bike.

Using shocks with incorrect eye-to-eye lengths can cause problems with the efficiency of the suspension and even can cause it to work against you. The travel on a rear shock is therefore more restricted although can vary slightly as the compression chamber can be of slightly different sized even if the overall length must be the same.

Just as with the front shock the longer the travel the better the shock will be at absorbing force, and the worse it will be for riding your mountain bike uphill (putting power to the trail).

MTB Tools I Love and Recommend

I own each of these tools and only recommend things I own and use.

• Bike Hand Bike Repair Stand .  Nice mountain bikes don’t have a kick stand so keeping your MTB safe but conveniently stored is essential.  I keep my bike on my stand whenever I’m not riding it.  This makes it easy to lube the chain, inflate the tires and adjust the derailleur.  Highly recommended – Bike Hand Bike Repair Stand (👈 Link to Amazon to see what thousands of others have said)
• A basic MTB toolbox for replacing a chain, adjusting brakes and dialing in the fit.  Bike Hand has a 37-piece box that has most of the specialty bike tools to keep your MTB properly maintained.  The Bike Hand brand is value packed for the avid rider.  Check out the competitive prices with this link to Amazon 👉 Bike Hand 37 pcs Bike Repair Tool Kit
• Get a good air pressure gauge, if you get just a tiny bit serious about MTBing you’re going to start playing with tire pressure.  A couple psi can make your tires sticking or not.  Get a good gauge, I highly recommend the Topeak Smartgauge D2 , it’s accurate, flexible and easy to use.  An Amazon best seller, here’s a link 👉 Topeak Smartgauge D2
• Carry a multitool with you on every ride.  I’m serious, most of the time you can MacGyver something to get back to the trailhead if you have a multitool.  I’ve got the Crank Brothers M19 , it’s worn, rubbed and abused – but it still works.   Thousands sold on Amazon – check it out with this link 👉 Crank Brothers M19

How to Balance Your Suspension with a Full Suspension Mountain Bike

Balancing the amount of force that the front and rear suspensions on a full suspension mountain bike is crucial to getting the most out of said mountain bike. If one component is compressing slower or faster than the other then the comfort of the ride can be dramatically compromised. As can the overall effectiveness of the suspension system.

It is not essential that the front and rear suspensions have the exact same amount of travel although the closer they are the easier it will be to balance them. Balancing them involves adjusting the pressure inside of the chambers so that each shock, no matter the travel, bottoms out at the same time. A longer shock will need less pressure when paired with a shorter shock and vice versa.

Coil Shocks VS Air Shocks

There are two main kinds of suspension. Those which rely on springs to compress and those which rely on compressed air. The benefits of an air shock are that it is lightweight, easily tune-able, and naturally get stiffer near the point of bottoming out. The downsides are that they require more maintenance and are also not as responsive.

The reason why some rider chooses coil springs, even though they must be bought specific to the weight of the rider and are also heavier, is that they are extremely responsive. Additionally, coil springs don’t fade in stiffness when riding for long periods of time as some air coils will.

The Third Kind of Mountain Bike Suspension Setup (A Rigid Bike)

The third, and most uncommon, form of suspension on a mountain bike is… well… to not have one at all. On a rigid bike you will not find either a front or rear suspension system and rather just a solid frame comprising the entire mountain bike.

This kind of mountain bike setup is most widely used for fat tire bikes as with a fat tire bike it is absolutely necessary to be able to put a lot of power from the pedals into the trail. This is because of the friction accosted with a fat tire.

Rigid suspension systems on fat tire bikes are able to be implemented due to the natural suspension capabilities of having such a large tire. This larger tire works to absorb force and the low pressure you can ride at work to smooth out the ride as well.

Additionally, often time rider will upgrade their rigid style mountain bikes with increased cushion seats.

Some regular tire mountain bikes implement a rigid style suspension system although they are much less comfortable to ride and require a more experienced rider. These bikes can provide a great experience if you’re constantly going uphill and don’t plan to encounter any rough terrain.

David Humphries is the creator of DIY Mountain Bike. For me a relaxing day involves riding my mountain bike to decompress after a long day. When not on my bike I can be found wrenching on it or making YouTube videos at 👉 DIY Mountain Bike Read more about David HERE .

Looking for more How To MTB articles? Click -> HERE

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Trek Rail electric full suspension mountain trail bikes for sale

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Our Favorite High-Performance Trail Bikes This Year

Six Pinkbike writers and editors tested 15 trail bikes last year. These five picks impressed us the most.

Heading out the door? Read this article on the Outside app available now on iOS devices for members! >","name":"in-content-cta","type":"link"}}'>Download the app .

Testers and PinkBike editors spent the last year hitting singletrack from Bellingham to Squamish to evaluate 2024’s newest crop of trail bikes. Fifteen bikes, ranging from hard-charging, downhill-oriented crushers to cross-country-style rippers, were in the mix, but when all the dust settled, these six impressed the most in overall performance.

At a Glance

• Editors’ Choice — Best Overall: Scor 2030 GX ($6,499)
• Editors’ Choice — Best Value: YT Jeffsy ($4,399)
• Best High-Pivot Trail Bike: Forbidden Druid ($7,199)
• Best All-Around: Cannondale Habit Carbon LT 1 ($5,550)
• Best for Getting Air: Commencal Tempo LTD ($4,900)
• Best Easy Ride: GT Sensor ($4,313)

How to Choose a Trail Bike

How we test, meet the lead testers.

All gear in this guide was tested by multiple reviewers. If you buy through our links, we may earn an affiliate commission. This supports our mission to get more people active and outside. Learn more .

Editors’ Choice — Best Overall

Scor 2030 gx.

$6,499 at Scor

Build: 2030 GX Weight: 29.9 lb (size M/L)

Pros and Cons ⊕ It’s a better descender than most 120-millimeter travel bikes ⊕ Very quiet, no cable rattle or excessive chainslap ⊗ Your enduro bike might start collecting dust

It only takes one three-letter word to summarize why the Scor 2030 is our 2024 Editor’s Choice winner: FUN. With its stubby back end and relatively slack head angle, the 2030 is incredibly entertaining, especially on technical, rolling terrain. Pumping, manualing, and jumping are the 2030’s strong suits, but it also squeezes every last drop of performance out of its 120 millimeters of rear travel. That trait allows it to shine brighter than most bikes in this travel bracket when faced with chunky, technical sections of trail.

The 2030 is more focused on the descents than some other bikes in this category (like the Yeti SB120 ), but Scor’s designers didn’t forget that it needs to go uphill, too. It’s an energetic pedaler, free of any wallowing or mushiness while still delivering enough traction to keep that low-profile Rekon tire from spinning wildly. The perfect balance between efficiency and grip can be tricky to achieve, but the 2030 does it very well. It has the quickness you’d hope to get from a 120-millimeter bike without any accompanying harshness.

The geometry plays a large part in how comfortable the bike feels in the steeps, but the suspension deserves a mention, too: the Deluxe Ultimate shock is very well controlled, with a smooth ramp up at the bottom of the stroke. It’s a trait we noticed with the Scor 4060 a couple of years ago—there’s no harshness towards the end of the travel, which makes it easier to plop off a drop or push through a pointy rock garden without worrying about running out of travel.

Yes, there are limits—we’re still talking about a 120-millimeter trail bike here—and I’m not about to say it can go wheel-to-wheel with a full-on enduro bike. However, the fact that it can handle those more technical trails while also remaining entertaining on mellower ones is worth noting. The suspension opens up nicely at higher speeds, and it can deal with quick impacts very well.

The frame itself ticks all the boxes when it comes to the features we’d expect to see on a modern trail bike—there’s in-frame storage, angle-adjusting headset cups, well-sealed bearings, and effective chainslap protection that keeps the 2030 satisfyingly silent. The 2030 is one of those bikes that makes you want to keep on riding, sneaking in as many miles as possible before it’s time to return to reality.

Editors’ Choice — Best Value

$4,399 at YT

Build: Core 4 Weight: 33.3 lbs (size S) Sizing: S-XXL

Pros and Cons ⊕ Easy and intuitive to ride ⊕ Good balance between stable and energetic riding ⊗ The suspension has its limits in rough, fast terrain

As a now-longstanding staple of the YT lineup, the main theme of the Jeffsy is alive and well: a 29er trail bike meant to get along with just about anything you might encounter. The all-mountain geometry of the updated model keeps the ride both stable and energetic—the ideal balance in a trail bike. But the third model also features a host of updates we’re seeing on many modern bikes, the most notable being the in-frame storage. The storage hatch stands alone above the bottle instead of doubling as the plate that carries the water bottle—eliminating the eventual loosening or rattling that might accompany the dual-duty designs.

I had an excellent first ride on the Jeffsy, and the positive feeling hasn’t waned much since that day. From quick laps on my local favorites to longer, very technical rides, the bike has felt predictable, fun, and simply easy to ride. YT seems to have nailed the tricky balance of a bike that is easy to cruise on while still holding its own when pushed hard or thrown into more serious terrain.

Climbing feels supportive and efficient—the bike remains energetic over technical terrain in and out of the saddle. Descending is intuitive and well-balanced, with excellent cornering performance and great pop on jumps and jibs. With the 145 millimeters of rear travel, I only bottomed out a few times on some serious hits. The bike has an active feel through chattery terrain, especially when you let off the brakes and push through the bike.

An immediate takeaway was just how quiet the Jeffsy is, with no rattles, creaks, or other annoyances developing over the past couple weeks of riding. Another rosy first impression is the dialed build kit—there’s nothing I’d change out of the gate on my Core 4 test bike. The brakes, drivetrain, suspension, wheelset, and cockpit are all pretty close to what I’d choose for a bike of this ilk, so I’m more than happy to stick with the stock options.

Direct-to-consumer brands like YT can still offer value that most shop model brands can’t compete with, as with the new Jeffsy. Topping out at $6,499, the Jeffsy lineup has 5 builds that cater to a wide array of budgets, depending on price, experience level, and component preference.

Overall this strikes me as a great bike for people looking for easy and intuitive handling, an unfussy layout, and a solid ride feel regardless of how hard you’re pushing the bike. But don’t let that dissuade you if you’re keen to ride hard, as Jeffsy is more than willing to get rowdy.

Read the full review

Best High-Pivot Trail Bike

Forbidden druid.

$7,199 at Forbidden

Build: GX FX Weight: 32.4 lbs (size M)

Pros and Cons ⊕ Descends like a longer travel bike ⊕ Extremely quiet ride ⊗ The extra idler wheel can require more servicing ⊗ A unique spin on geometry means the XL frame’s chainstay grows extremely long through the travel

If you’ve ever ridden an idler-equipped high-pivot bike—meaning the bike’s main pivot is placed above the top of the chainring and the rear wheel axle—you know the calming effect that the rearward axle path brings to the nature of the ride. Forbidden has taken that to a trail bike, something seldom utilized on a 130-millimeter-travel bike. The original Druid won over fans of shorter travel bikes with its ability to handle descents as if it had magical powers—now, it’s transcendent. Even with a longer-travel model in the lineup, Forbidden’s enduro racer, Rhys Verner, claimed the top spot this season aboard the Druid V2.

We took the Druid out on singletrack uphills and downhills with chunky rock outcrops, and the bike felt superbly balanced. Thanks to the high pivot design and the Super Deluxe rear shock, the Druid handled technical bumps with ease and had no trouble carrying speed. The Druid thrives in singletrack because you can stay seated upright and comfy, and you don’t lose much speed when pedaling across roots.

However, the admirable suspension qualities of high-pivot bikes don’t come easily—they typically require more upkeep to maintain maximum drivetrain efficiency. Due to the precise placements of the pivots on the Druid V2, you cannot adjust the geometry. To pick between a 64 or 64.5-degree head tube angle, you’ll need to choose the specific frame member that houses either a 27.5 or 29-inch rear wheel. Although the brake line’s routing passes through the seatstay, it’s not a swap you’ll be making in the parking lot. On that note of chainstays, Forbidden scales their front to rear center lengths proportionally per size, so the same ratio is kept on all frame sizes. Even taller riders may have trouble wielding the 466-millimeter chainstay found on the XL frame size.

Overall, the Druid is one of the more capable short-travel bikes for riders who prefer snappy handling. It might take a while for some riders to acclimatize to its lengthy rear triangle, but the unbelievably smooth descent is worth it.

Read the Full Review

Best All-Around

Cannondale habit carbon lt 1.

$4,163 at REI $4,163 at Cannondale

Build: Sram GX Eagle Weight: 31.4 lbs (size L)

Pros and Cons ⊕ Balanced and composed in tricky situations ⊗ Not super efficient on the uphill

When we covered the release of the Habit , it struck me just how sensible and conventional it was. There was no quirkiness to it, at least on the surface, and everything about it seemed to be pragmatic and well-judged. The Habit LT’s geometry, frame features, and simple layout all scream modern, sensible trail bike. The frame has some nice subtle features, with a rubber cover to stop your chainstay from gobbling up rocks, non-guided routing that is very easy to work with thanks to a removable panel on the downtube, ISCG threads, and a tried-and-true threaded bottom bracket.

Though it is a typical four-bar bike, the Habit has a comparatively low anti-squat value. This may be bad news for all-out efficiency on smooth roads, but it’s good news if you need your suspension to adapt to terrain on rougher climbs. The Habit is comfortable on undulating terrain thanks to that higher stack, and the suspension tracks and grips well. I sometimes used the climb switch for hard-pack fire roads or tarmac stretches, but for anything remotely rough, I set it to open and let it flow. It might not be the most suited to out-of-the-saddle pedaling hard, but the bike does strike a great balance between tracking and efficiency. The Habit LT is weighted on the front, balanced on most trails, and able to handle very steep trails because of this well-proportioned and pragmatic geometry. I’m not a believer in massive reaches, especially when combined with short rear ends—the grip the Habit achieves on any type of trail is a testament to this. Extra-regular is no bad thing.

Overall, this is a very well-executed bike that simply works very well. Balance, composure, maneuverability, and comfort can oftentimes seem like ideologies that are opposed to one another in bikes, and you can merely have two or three out of the four at best. The Habit LT makes a very strong argument that, as riders, we might just be able to have it all.

Best for Getting Air

Commencal tempo ltd.

$4,900 at Commencal

Build: Tempo LTD Weight: 30.9 lbs (size S)

Pros and Cons ⊕ Quick and lively ⊕ Never met a jump or corner it didn’t like ⊗ Thru-headset cable routing can make maintenance more difficult

No matter which direction the trail points, the Tempo is fast. It has a satisfying snappiness that rewards hard pedaling efforts, especially on rolling terrain where the bike can be pumped and pushed to maintain that momentum. It’s also a very energetic climber, which will be a welcome trait to anyone coming off of a longer travel machine with more subdued pedaling manners. Compared to longer, slacker bikes where you need to swing wide to navigate awkward switchbacks, the Tempo is happiest taking the inside line, following a tight, precise arc on its way upwards. I’d be tempted to call it a trail bike for riders who prioritize the climbs—except that it’s a blast on the downhills too.

The Tempo is the type of bike that can breathe new life into mellower trails while also holding its own on the rowdier stuff. Modern mountain bike categories can be nebulous at times, but this is a trail bike in the truest sense of the term, well-suited to spinning out the miles while also goofing off and hitting every lip and landing possible. Do I wish it didn’t have thru-headset cable routing and better-sealed frame bearings? You bet, but I wouldn’t consider either of those deal-breakers. The overall ride characteristics of the Tempo are overwhelmingly positive, enough so that I’d be willing to deal with a little extra shop time.

Best Easy Ride

Gt sensor carbon.

$4,313 at GT

Build: Carbon Pro LE Weight: 32.7 lbs (M) Sizing: S-XL

Pros and Cons ⊕ Feels like an old friend—easy to ride ⊕ Quiet ⊗ No in-frame storage ⊗ No flip-chips or ways to adjust the geometry

In 2023, it was nearly five years since the Sensor received a significant update, so it was high time GT revised its 29-inch trail bike. The Sensor’s frame still has that distinctive GT look, but the amount of rear travel has been bumped up to 140 millimeters, a change that’s accompanied by revised geometry.

There are five models in the Sensor lineup—three with carbon frames (except for the chainstays) with 140 millimeters of travel, and two with aluminum frames with 130 millimeters of travel. Prices range from $2,300 for the alloy Sensor Comp and go up to $5,750 for the Sensor Carbon Pro LE.

The Sensor’s geometry falls into what I’d call extra-normal-modern. The 65-degree head angle is moderately slack, but not extreme, and the 480-millimeter reach for a size large paired with a 77-degree seat angle is a familiar recipe. Compared to the previous version, the reach is approximately 10 millimeters longer per size, and the seat angle is a degree steeper.

After a series of almost suspiciously great rides, my conviction is growing stronger that the new Sensor is a good one. It climbs well, with enough support to leave the shock’s climb lever alone, and there’s plenty of traction even when set up with 25 percent sag. On the descents, the suspension does a great job of muting hits of all sizes. The tune on the RockShox Super Deluxe feels ideally suited to the Sensor’s kinematics—it’s fluttery off the top to take care of the small bump chatter, and then settles nicely into its stroke when dealing with repeated larger impacts.

The geometry may be fairly middle of the road, but it’s a recipe that works well, and the result is a bike that feels like a familiar, friendly companion almost immediately.

Read the full review here

The trail bike category is the most saturated in mountain biking, so it’s understandable if you’re feeling a bit overwhelmed. Fortunately, there are a few easy questions you can ask yourself to narrow the field.

What Kind of Riding Will You Mostly Be Doing?

As much as you may want to answer this one with flowy, singletrack heaven, it’s important to be realistic about what you’ll actually be riding. This can be determined by the time of year that you mostly get out there (which will determine what the conditions will be like), which trails are most accessible to you, and which region you bike in. Are you planning on taking big trips consistently, or will you mostly stay local?

Will You Be Riding Lift-Accessed Trails?

If most of the riding you’ll be doing is lift-accessed, you may want to look in the enduro category. If you’ll be doing a mix of both and are planning on hitting jumps, look for a bike that has enough travel but doesn’t compromise on the uphill either.

What’s Your Riding Style?

If you prefer to charge through steep, technical sections, you could be looking at a very different bike than if you’re a more playful rider who likes to find side hits. Again, be honest with yourself about this. How do you actually ride, and what’s aspirational?

What’s Your Budget Like?

Yes, mountain bikes are expensive. But you do have options. Consider buying used (the market has finally gotten more reasonable this past year), by checking out Pinkbike’s marketplace or looking on Craigslist. Or, check out our best value bikes page for cheaper new bikes. If you’re thinking about buying a used bike (which can be an excellent option), watch this video from PinkBike Originals.

Are You Able to Test it Out?

You must take a bike at least for a spin around the block before you pull the trigger. You might find that you’re uncomfortable on a bike with a certain geometry that you’re not used to—and although sometimes it does take some more time on the bike—you’ll know if you’re just not sitting right. Taking it for a spin will also help the shop determine which size is best for you.

• Number of Testers: 6
• Number of Products Tested: 15

PinkBike leads our mountain bike testing and just like in previous years, the team took out as many trail bikes as they could over the whole year. They tested trail bikes in Bellingham, Washington, and Squamish, BC, in a wide range of conditions that included everything from muddy, rainy days to ones with blue skies and perfect dirt. Testing was lead by Mike Kazimer, the managing tech editor for PinkBike , who is based in Bellingham, Washington and manages all mountain bike gear coverage.

Mike Kazimer : Managing tech editor for Pinkbike, alien skeptic.

Mike Levy : Tech editor for Pinkbike, believes in aliens (or lizard people at the very least).

Alicia Leggett : News editor for Pinkbike who sometimes moonlights as a tech editor.

Sarah Moore : Content manager for Pinkbike, former elite-level cross-country mountain bike racer.

• 2024 Gear Reviews
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