calakmul trip

How to Visit Calakmul (Campeche): The Definitive Guide

• Calakmul: Everything You Need to Know

Calakmul is a hidden gem and one of the best places to visit in Mexico.

This UNESCO World Heritage Site and Biosphere Reserve is home to the second largest forest in the Americas and the biggest tropical reserve in Mexico.

You can wander through the ancient ruins of a powerful Mayan city, surrounded by lush jungle and curious monkeys.

But this amazing experience comes with a challenge: it’s a long 5-hour drive from Campeche , near the border with Guatemala. That’s why it’s off the beaten track, and that’s what makes it special!

Calakmul is one of my top picks in Mexico.

To help you plan your trip, here’s everything you need to know about Calakmul:

The history of Calakmul in a nutshell

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Visit Calakmul Early During Construction With the major construction site of the Maya Train , Calakmul is temporarily open from 5am to 1pm, with last access at 10am .

Calakmul’s name means “two towering mounds” in the Yucatec Maya language, after its two largest pyramids : structures I and II. But the city also had other names in the past, such as Kan, meaning “serpent”, or Ux te tuun, meaning “three stones”.

Calakmul boasts the most stelae of any Mayan site, containing valuable information that has helped to reconstruct the history of Calakmul and the kind of society it was.

Along with Palenque in Chiapas and Tikal in Guatemala, it was one of the most important and influential cities of the Mayan world.

A brief summary of its history:

• It was occupied from 550 BC and reached its peak from 250 to 900.
• Between 636 and 695, Calakmul formed a very powerful socio-political network.
• After being defeated by Tikal in Guatemala, Calakmul had to change its political strategy. The new rulers established relations with other cities further north, such as Río Bec .
• Between 1000 and 1500, it was mainly a pilgrimage site .
• Calakmul was a hub of creativity and culture from 400 BC to 1000 AD . It attracted talented artists and craftsmen who produced stunning works of art and architecture. They built magnificent buildings, murals, friezes and giant masks, as well as colorful pottery for the elite houses and tombs. They also made exquisite jade jewelry and masks, shell and wood objects, and more. Calakmul has the most funerary masks of any Mayan site , revealing the beliefs and customs of its people.

What to see in Calakmul

The archaeological zone of Calakmul has 6,500 ancient structures, but only 21 of them have been excavated and restored so far.

My advice  You can choose from 3 options to explore Calakmul: a short path (2h), a medium path (3h), or a long path (4-5h).

There is a map at the start of the tour that shows all the accessible structures and the different routes. I took some photos of this map and they were very helpful. I suggest you do the same ! Luckily, the path is well marked.

So, I present to you What to see in Calakmul , in the order of the route I followed:

This was a residential area where large families lived together. They were not all related by blood, but by their common ancestry.

They had a drainage channel to deal with the heavy rain and avoid flooding.

This was a huge complex of 68 structures with plazas and corridors. It was probably a place for festivals and celebrations.

It was the first big site I saw in Calakmul, and it blew me away!

It was a large residential area with two main parts: a semi-public part and a private part for the elite.

• The semi-public area had about 10 buildings around two plazas. They were separated by structure XII. The north plaza had a ball court , and the south plaza had a staircase. The main entrance to the Acropolis was through structure XIV. It was open to the public, but very controlled.
• The private area was where the governor and the elite of Calakmul lived. There were about 70 structures around 17 courtyards and plazas.

The Great Acropolis was not only a residential area, but also a center for administration, politics, society and ceremony. Some of the structures had tombs of important people with offerings, such as structure XV, where three tombs were found.

The Gran Plaza is the main plaza of Calakmul . It is surrounded by several structures, such as the famous Structure II . Besides being the largest pyramid in Calakmul, it is also the heart of the city.

This pyramid is one of the tallest and most important in the Mayan world.  It stands at 55 feet high, but it used to be 66 feet high in its glory days!

 It was the symbol of power and authority in Calakmul, and the burial place of some of its rulers. Archaeologists have found nine tombs inside the pyramid.

You have to climb up to admire the view, beyond the top of the trees. And if you look closely, you will see some dots emerging from the vegetation: they are other pyramids . Among them, on your left, you will see the other great pyramid of Calakmul: Structure I.

My advice The pyramid has different levels, and the highest one is a bit hidden.

I thought I had reached the top, but I was wrong. The pyramid is bigger than it looks from the ground.

Structure I is the second tallest pyramid in Calakmul , after Structure II.

It’s 44 feet high, and you can climb it if you’re brave enough. But watch out, the stairs are uneven and steep.

From the top, you can see the amazing view of the jungle . And you can also spot Structure II peeking through the trees. It’s a breathtaking sight, and it feels like you’re in a movie!

This is your last chance to see the ruins before you leave, so make the most of it.

The Small Acropolis may not look as impressive as the big pyramids, because they are not well restored.

But trust me, it’s still fun to climb around and explore. You’ll feel like an adventurer, like Lara Croft or Indiana Jones!

Structure III is located on the edge of the Small Acropolis.

It’s a palace where one of the oldest lineages of the city lived. Two tombs have been found here, one of them with offerings (ceramic, jade masks) and plaques with hieroglyphic writings, indicating that the deceased was an important ruler.

This was a palace where a royal family of Calakmul lived. They were one of the oldest and most powerful lineages in the city.

Archaeologists have found two tombs inside the palace, with valuable offerings (ceramics, jade masks) and inscriptions. One of the tombs belonged to a great ruler of Calakmul.

The Calakmul reserve has a rich wildlife: 235 species of birds, 5 of the 6 Mexican felines, numerous reptiles and monkeys.

As for the archaeological site of Calakmul , I saw several howler monkeys playing from one branch to another and a couple of ocellated turkeys walking around. You will probably encounter them along the way, so keep your eyes open.

Here is a map of Calakmul with all the buildings accessible to the public, provided by INAH .

Calakmul is a hidden treasure in the jungle, waiting for you to discover it.

You can roam freely around the ancient Mayan site, climbing up and down the pyramids and other structures. This is a rare opportunity , as most other archaeological sites in Mexico don’t allow it anymore.

Calakmul is not very famous, but very important. It was once a powerful city, rivaling Tikal in Guatemala. Now, it’s a peaceful place, with few visitors and lots of wildlife. You might see only 100 people on a busy day, or none at all!

You need to be fit and adventurous to explore Calakmul. There are many steps to climb, and some are steep and slippery. But don’t worry, you’ll find people of all ages and backgrounds enjoying the site.

The big question is: is it worth the long drive to get there ? YES, absolutely.

Trust me, it’s a unique and unforgettable experience that you don’t want to miss on your trip to Mexico!

How to get to Calakmul

It takes a while to get to Calakmul (4h from Campeche, 2h15 from Bacalar , 40 min from Xpujil), so plan ahead.

After that, you’ll need another hour to get to the site entrance , driving at 17 mph

Going by car

• From Campeche: take Highway 261 south to Escárcega , then Highway 186 to Chetumal . At km 95 (Conhuas), take the junction south for 37 miles. Important: when passing through Escárcega , take the opportunity to fill up your tank because there is no gas station until Xpujil .
• From Bacalar : 2h15 via Mexico 186 and Villahermosa – Chetumal/Mexico 186
• There is free parking

With public transportation

To get to Calakmul by public transportation , you have to take two things into account: you will have to arrive first to Xpuijl, spend the night in Xpujil and the next day, take the transfer from Xpujil to Calakmul (round trip 7am – return 3pm)

• From Campeche: departures to Xpujil from Terminal Sur at 08:00, 13:30, 22:00 with Autobuses Sur , ticket 307 pesos
• From Bacalar: there is an AU bus departing at 23h55 (from the ADO terminal ) and arrives 2h45 am to Xpujil . It is direct, but the schedule is not practical. Another option is to take a bus or colectivo from Bacalar to Chetumal (40min) and then the ADO bus from Chetumal to Xpujil (takes 1h45, departures 18h30, 21h, 22h, or with AU at 00h55)

You can take this tour from Campeche , which includes pick up at your hotel , guided visit to Calakmul and the archaeological site of Balamkú .

Book it here:

Renting a car is for sure the best way to explore Calakmul and make the most of your stay!

To rent a car, personally, I always use Rentalcars.com, for a few reasons:

• You can easily compare the rental cars prices between all the agencies: for sure the easiest way to find the best rate!
• Cancellation is often offered free of charge: no need to worry if you change your mind
• Rentalcars offers full insurance coverage at a lower price than the rental companies , so it’s an instant saving with no effort

Simply click on the green button to find your rental car at the best price:

It really depends on your itinerary.

If you want to visit Calakmul in one day from Campeche , you’ll need a good place to stay in the city. My recommendations for hotels in Campeche are:

• Melisa Hostal : very well located hostel in a beautiful typical house in the center of Campeche , friendly staff, with a small pool, access to a kitchen, and very clean and comfortable mattresses. Bed in shared room, from only 20 $usd per night
• Casa Serena Beautiful Colonial Loft : a spacious apartment in the center of Campeche that offers excellent value for money . With air conditioning, a living room, kitchen, terrace, good wifi with breakfast included. Sleeps 2 to 4 people , starting at 125 $usd per night
• Boutique Hotel Casa Don Gustavo : an elegant 18th century manor house completely restored on a pedestrian street in downtown Campeche. A beautiful blend of modernity and colonial decor, with comfortable air-conditioned rooms. Wifi, outdoor pool, jacuzzi and a very tasty à la carte breakfast await guests . Starting at 65 $usd!

Xpujil is a good option to stay if you are visiting Calakmul from or on your way to Bacalar . It is a small town with some hotels and restaurants, and it is close to the entrance of the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve. Here are some of the hotels in Xpujil that I recommend:

• Coa de Collar : great budget option in Xpujil with simple, but clean and well-located rooms, close to restaurants and supermarkets. Miguel, the owner, is a tour guide, which is very helpful. From 40 $usd a night
• Ecohabitat : a small country house surrounded by vegetation. It is comfortable, very clean, with a very nice welcome. In the morning they bring you breakfast on the veranda, or if you prefer they prepare it to take away. Delicious breakfast included, from 70 $usd per night
• Casa Kaan : comfortable cabins with air conditioning, terrace and kitchen, in the middle of nature. It is an ecological lodging that works with solar energy, has several fruit trees and the residues are used as fertilizer for the vegetable garden. Breakfast included, from 98 $usd

Calakmul can be hot and humid , so dress comfortably and wear sturdy shoes.

You’ll be climbing up and down the ancient structures, and you’ll want to avoid the sunburn and the mosquito bites. Bring some repellent and sunscreen.

Don’t forget to pack some binoculars if you have them. You’ll be amazed by the wildlife and the ruins that are hidden in the jungle.

Remember: Calakmul is isolated, so bring enough snacks and water . There are no shops or restaurants nearby.

Here you have all the information you need to visit Calakmul :

• Entrance fee 255 pesos for foreigners, 90 pesos for nationals
• Optional guide 500 pesos (maximum 4 people)
• Open from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily

To find a cheap flight ticket to Cancun , Campeche or Chetumal, I recommend you to use our flight comparator, in partnership with Skyscanner: it’s the guarantee to pay the best price!

Discover all my articles about Mexico : All my articles to help you plan your trip to Mexico are listed there.

• The 35 Best Things to Do in Mexico
• Yucatan Peninsula : Top 20 things to Do and See
• Bacalar : The 18 Best Places to Visit
• Campeche : The 20 Best Places to Visit
• Edzna : Everything You Need to Know
• Itinerary : 10 days in Mexico – Mexico City , Chiapas and Yucatan
• Itinerary : 2 weeks in Mexico   – Best itinerary to discover the Yucatan Peninsula and Chiapas!
• Itinerary : 3 weeks in Mexico – Mexico City, Puebla , Oaxaca , Chiapas, Campeche, Yucatán and Riviera Maya
• Itinerary : 1 month in Mexico – My Epic 30-31 Days Itinerary from Mexico City to Cancun
• Road trip in Mexico : The best itineraries for 10, 15, 21 days and a month
• Itinerary : 1 week in Yucatan – The Ultimate 6, 7 or 8 days Itinerary
• Itinerary : 10 days in Yucatan – Best Itinerary for 9, 10 or 11 Days in Yucatan
• Itinerary : 2 weeks in Yucatan – Epic Itinerary + All my Best Tips!
• Itinerary : 3 weeks in Yucatan – Best things to do in 20-21 days
• Itinerary : 1 month in Yucatan – Yucatan Peninsula in 29, 30 or 31 days from Cancun
• Road trip in Yucatan : The best itineraries for 7, 10, 15, 21 days and 1 month

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I have created this blog to give you all my best tips to plan your next trip to Mexico, regardless of your budget. I share detailed itineraries, advice about places to visit as well as recommendations for transportation, hotels and restaurants. I hope I will also help you to discover amazing off the beaten path destinations in Mexico!

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Discussion 2 comments.

We are traveling to Calakmul the very end of January/beginning February, do you know it they will still limit entry 5am to 1pm, with last access at 10am.

Hi Jennie! It’s a bit hard to give a definite answer since it really depends on the progress of the Maya Train construction. But, given there are still two months to go and the train is already running up to Campeche station, there’s a good chance it might be finished by then. If that’s the case, Calakmul should be back to its normal opening hours soon.

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Few Mexican destinations can dazzle you with ancient Maya ruins, azure Caribbean and Gulf of Mexico waters and colonial cities all in one fell swoop. Actually, there's only one – the Yucatán Peninsula. The peninsula comprises parts of Belize and Guatemala, as well as three separate Mexican states: Yucatán, Quintana Roo and Campeche. Quintana Roo is probably the best known thanks to the tourism mega-destinations of Cancún, Tulum and Playa del Carmen, where millions flock annually to get their share of vitamin D on brochure-perfect beaches or resort infinity pools. But head just a couple of hours west and you hit Mérida, the capital of Yucatán state, whose colonial architecture and contemporary restaurants are a satisfying change of pace, not to mention the many cenotes (freshwater springs) nearby. Neighboring Campeche state is home to mind-blowing Maya ruins galore. This entire compact peninsula holds wonderful, varied and accessible travel surprises.

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How to Visit the Calakmul Biosphere and Mayan Ruins

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Planning a visit to the Calakmul Biosphere and Mayan Ruins? Look no further! I have been several times and in this post, I will tell you all about it.

In this article, you will also find all the amazing things to do in the surrounding area, which is full of incredible natural and historical sites!

Situated in the State of Campeche at the base of the peninsula of  Yucatan and at the border with the Peten Region in Guatemala, the Calakmul biosphere reserve is one of the largest protected areas in Mexico.

The area counts many species of flora and fauna and it’s a paradise for photographers, bird watchers, and animal lovers in general.

Inside the biosphere, you will find one of the most precious and biggest Mayan archaeological sites and the most popular in the region

What I would like to highlight here is that although it has become famous for the magnificent Calakmul National Park, the region has much more to offer.

During my road trip, after speaking with the helpful guys at the Tourist information center VISIT CALAKMUL , I have decided to extend my stay for about 5 days in order to see everything as much as possible, and, believe me, I should have stayed longer in order to see completely everything.

You can refer to the below map to get a better idea

HOW TO GET TO THE CALAKMUL MAYAN RUINS

Traveling to calakmul ruins by car  .

This is the best option and it’s not because I live here that I find it easy.

The road is in great condition and there is absolutely no danger. Besides, you will be free to move around at your own pace without having to depend on taxis or buses. It is also advisable to rent the car before getting there, as it might be more complicated to rent it from there and you would have less choice.

You can check out my post on driving in Mexico for more info.     

Driving from Bacalar or Campeche you will enter route 186 and right after about 1-hour of driving you will pass the frontiers of Quintana Roo and you will be in the Campeche region.  

You will see a military checkpoint. Not to worry: they are doing random checks and will only ask for your driver’s license and car documents. You will notice the difference in attitude from the Police in the Riviera Maya. They are very laid back and don’t play any tricks.

However I can tell you that I was driving on my own and as a blond woman mastering the Spanish language, I was asked extra unnecessary questions but that was fine. You just smile and answer politely and you are good to go.

TRAVELING TO CALAKMUL ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE BY BUS 

ADO   provides a great Bus service from the main locations, from Cancun is about 25 USD and it’s 8-hour trip.  From Merida , you need to get to Escarcega and then hop onto another bus.

From Playa del Carmen, Tulum, and Bacalar , is the same bus leaving from Cancun.

You need to look for Xpujil which is the core of the entire area. When you reserve your ticket online you can get help on the itinerary using their chat from 7 am to 10 pm. They speak English too.

In every village they also have “colectivos” minivans that go basically everywhere, you will be less comfortable and sometimes a little squeezed, but it is another option if you have a sense of adventure. 😉

If you get there by bus, you will need taxis to move around. There is a taxi station right in the center of Xpujil and they will ask you for about 500 pesos to go to Calakmul ruins, whereas if you stay in the hotels around the Biosphere they will call a taxi for you.

It’s going to be a bit expensive but it is doable. To rent a car once you are there is more complicated, near to impossible.

  WHAT TO SEE IN THE AREA OF CALAKMUL

1. calakmul biosphere and archaeological site.

The Calakmul Biosphere Reserve was established as a natural protected area in 1989 and it is a Unesco World Heritage site since 2002.

The deep and thick jungle is home to a great abundance of wildlife and hosts rich biodiversity, that was very appreciated by the Mayans and represented in their paintings, pottery, sculptures, rituals, food, and arts in general, which have been discovered as witnesses of the grandeur of this civilization.  Several of the species are considered threatened and in danger.

It is home to two of the three species of primates and five of the six wildcat species (felines) that exist in Mexico”, among which the Jaguar ( Balam in the Mayan Language) which is considered a sacred animal by the ancient Maya civilization and you will see it represented in numerous paintings and various decorations (CIT UNESCO).

 It is one of the largest Mayan sites brought to light even though excavations are a perpetual work in progress due to the immensity of the territory, which extends for 70km2 of which only 2%  of the buildings are accessible.

A lot of information has been found from “the number of stucco friezes and mural paintings in some of the massive temple pyramids and palaces, as well as burials of kings and other members of the nobility, containing a rich variety of body ornaments and other accompanying objects including elaborate jade masks, ear spools, and polychrome pottery vessels.

The hieroglyphic inscriptions on stelae, altars, and building elements reveal important facts about the territorial organization and political history, and some epigraphic records provide information that has not been found anywhere else in the Maya Area.” (Source: UNESCO web site )

The city of Calakmul was the capital of the reign of the Kaan, in the classic period between the 3rd and 7th century, and it seems that it reached 100,000 inhabitants, second only to the capital of Tenochtitlan, the Aztecan city, on which Mexico city has been eventually built.

It is incredible how advanced this population was in astronomy Agricultural technology, engineering, and architecture.

The old city included something like  6500 structures and, considering that only the 2% of it has been brought to light,  it will take forever to see all of the remaining parts covered up by the thick vegetation.

I loved to see that the excavation works have been very much respectful of the surrounding nature, though many secular threes have been spared, despite the huge amazing work that has been done by the archeologist so that we can admire and get closer to such a brilliant and mysterious civilization.

One of the things that impressed me the most while visiting any of those Mayan ruins of Mexico is how secular trees are rooted over massive blocks of stone and it is not rare to find vegetation on top of an ancient tower. Fascinating!

If you love to climb up you will have your own natural amusement park in Calakmul, where you can reach the top of the main structures; just do it with respect and pay much attention to where you put your feet. Especially if it has rained, it can be slippery. The view of an infinite green carpet from the top is mesmerizing.

There is so much to know and see about this site that you will need a full day to visit and yet it wouldn’t be enough!  

I would wholeheartedly suggest you hire a local guide for the entire time so that you can make the most of it and learn about the local species of flora and fauna that grow here and more details on the Mayan civilization besides local anecdotes.  You can ask the office of Pro Natura to find a  guide for you.

When I was there I found a travel companion in the office and we got together for the trip and hired a great guide.

We drove together since morning, 5 am,  in order to enter the park at 6 am and be able to see different bird species, monkeys, and other animals.

If you are lucky you could also spot a jaguar; we didn’t unfortunately, but it is very rare to find. The guide stayed with us for the entire day for 900 pesos ( about 50 USD).

It’s going to be a very hot and sweaty day but all worth it.

WHAT TO BRING : remember to bring at least 2 bottles of water and some food to get you through the day, as the only cafe’ is at half an hour from the entrance and besides it might be closed if there are not enough visitors.

A hat, sunscreen, and mosquito repellent, especially for early morning as the mosquitoes are quite aggressive.

• OPENING HOURS 8 AM TO 5 PM but if you go with a guide you have access earlier
• PRICE 150 MXN ( about 8 USD)

2. BIRD WATCHING

The biosphere is one of the best areas for bird lovers or those who want to approach this world of birdwatchers, there is no better place to start.

There are specialized guides available to take you to the best spots. Ask your concierge or the Visit Calakmul office for information.

3. NIGHT SHOW OF THE BATS

This happens in a cave just outside the entrance of Calakmul. You need to go with a guide (that you can book here [email protected] ). It will be around 6 or 7 depending on the time of the year, it has to be after sunset when the bats come out in a circle altogether forming something like a vortex. It is an amazing show.

4. VISIT THE UNIQUE ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE OF BALAMKU

I am not sure why this Mayan site always passes unnoticed although it is of great importance as well, situated within the premises of the biosphere of Calakmul, the entrance is almost opposite to the Calakmul site entrance.

Balamku is small especially compared to the main site but it has one of the largest surviving stucco friezes in the Maya world, worth seeing.

• OPENING HOURS 8 AM TO 5 PM
• PRICE 50 MXN ABOUT 2.5 USD

5. VISIT THE ARCHEOLOGICAL SITE OF XPUJIL 

It is a very small site located right on the way out of Xpujil town. For the passionate photographer, it is better to visit in the morning, for the light illuminating the front of the three main towers.

The name Xpujil comes from the name of a rare plant that is now extinguished  due to urbanization, that was called the tail of a cat (Xpuh in Maya language)

• ENTRANCE FEE 55 MXN (3 USD)

6. VISIT BECAN  ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

Becan is another archaeological site in the region, considered the capital of the Rio Bec area during the classical period, as witness the magnificent buildings.

It has also a particular characteristic that makes this site unique among others, a ditch that surrounds the most important buildings of the site, accessible only by 7 bridges.

Other important features are the mascarones on the main facade representative of the different cultural periods of the city and the ideology of its governors of the time.

WHERE IS SITUATED on the main road (route 186) 10 km after Xpujil on the way towards Calakmul

• COST 55 MXN

7. VISIT CHICANNA’

Situated on the way to Calakmul, right after Becan, on the left side, at about 10 km from Xpuji, Chicanna’  is considered one of the elite centers of the Region Rio Bec for the elegance of the decorations of the buildings.  

Chicannà is also called “Casa de la Boca de la serpiente ” which means home of the mouth of the snake, in Spanish.  That’s because of the masks of Itzamná, the god of the sun and wisdom represented by a face with enormous open jaws and bejeweled ears. (see picture)

• COST 50 MXN

8. WALK OR BIKE TO HORMIGUERO

This archeological site is one of the most fascinating among the small ones because it is located deep inside the thick jungle and you can reach it either by bike, which you can rent at the village, just outside Xpujil, or you can also drive up to the entrance. 

Of the numerous structures, you can only see a couple that has been restructured. One of them, in particular, has a stunning mask on the facade, looking like a monstrous open mouth with giant fangs which has been interpreted as the entrance to the underworld.  

Also worthy of note is the zoomorphic facade and the masks of the god Chaac which decorate another of the structures. (Source –  INHA page  )It was called Hormiguero by the researcher who found it because it was full of ant’s nests (Hormiguero in Spanish)

9. VISIT RIO BEC ON A QUOD OR A MOTORBIKE

The archaeological site of Rio Bec is located very close to the boundaries of Guatemala in the region of Peten Guatemalteco.

The name Rio Bec also classifies a kind of architectural style typical of that same region. The main structure is made of two towers with no particular functionality if not decorative. The style is similar to the one in Tikal, probably for the proximity.

HOW TO GET THERE – to reach Rio Bec is not so simple as the road is really agnostic even for a Jeep. For this reason, the local community organizes guided tours by quad, which is almost the only possible way to get there. You will need to reach the Community of 20 de Noviembre, which is right before the borders between Quintana Roo and Campeche where your guide will wait for you.

COST – 900 pesos (50 USD) per person at the time I checked (2017) but you need to organize it with the Pro Natura Office.

If you are alone and you don’t want to go by quod ( 4 wheels motorbikes) you can ask the guys of Pro Natura and see if they can find somebody to take you by motorbike which is the only other option.

This is what I did and was totally worth the trip. It’s a full immersion into the unspoiled nature and if you go early you might encounter some wild creatures. FUN! The view of the site emerging from the jungle is just spectacular!

10. COMUNIDAD 20 de NOVIEMBRE –

It is one of the local communities that you can visit and if you wish to spend some time with them, they have some workshops where they teach you their art and crafts, you will learn about their creativity and how they make their living. Here they do beautiful hammocks, a typical product of Yucatan and Campeche, totally handmade.

You will be left speechless by the creativity and the manual ability of these people. They also make necklaces, earrings, woodwork for the house, both for decorations or household usage, huipiles (typical local dresses for women), honey, and natural skin products.

11. COMUNIDAD LA MANCOLONA

Also, La Mancolona was an interesting place to visit. Here I stayed for half a day and learn how to make candles and basketwork. They also offer guided tours in the countryside to see the pepper cultivations and other interesting aspects of the surrounding regions.

They showed me their lifestyle and how they made tamales, a typical dish, to sell to the community.

It was an interesting experience to immerse yourself in the local culture and to support them.

12. CAVES OF CASA DE LA LLUVIA – CRISTOBAL COLON

In the community of Cristobal Colón, at a few km from Xpujil, the knowledgeable guide Faustino Hernandez will take you into the heart of mother earth, literally.

This cave is extremely huge and deep. You will see rivers and the remaining Mayan utensils that have been found and left there. The guide will tell you about the history of that place and its legends. It’s an amazing walk into the underworld.

WHAT TO WEAR front light and boots, very important. They will give you a hard hat for protection. WARNING: DO NOT GO if you are claustrophobic . 😉

13. VISIT OR CAMP AT VALENTIN NATURAL

A beautiful lagoon (Laguna Carolina) located just 5 km from Xpujil where you can live in total connection with nature. You can either camp there and spend the night or just go for a daily visit.

In the lagoon, you can do different activities such as bird watching or kayaking. It’s a special place for a peaceful day in nature. For more information, you can contact the Pro Natura office ( [email protected] ) or directly the lagoon offices ( [email protected] )

For detailed  information on these tours, you can contact the lovely guys from the Pro Natura office either through their Facebook page  or via email at [email protected]

DISCLAIMER: I am not getting any sponsorship from this, I just genuinely loved the place and the visits.

PRACTICAL TIPS

☑️ Once you get to Xpujil you should stop by the Tourism office   VISIT CALAKMUL .  It’s just located on the road before you reach the center of the town. They are amazing and will help you sort out your planning. It’s convenient if you ask them to book and organize some of the visits in the nearby areas such as the communities or the tour at the cave because the local guides need to know in advance. Also if you wish to have a guide in Calakmul they can arrange it for you.(advisable )

☑️ Xpujil is the main center where you find gasoline stations, restaurants, and hotels and although it is at 1-hour distance from Calakmul it’s advisable to stay there if you want to be in communication with the rest of the world, as in Calakmul there is no signal for most of the area.

☑️ If you are driving bear in mind that when you leave Xpuhil there are no more gas stations until Escarcega, therefore make sure your tank is full.

☑️ Always bring water with you as they don’t sell it at the entrance of the sites.

☑️ Wear mosquito repellent and sunscreen as there is an abundance of both mosquitos and sun.

☑️ Have Mexican pesos with you as many places such as Archaeological Sites or small shops don’t use credit cards.

☑️ You can have more detailed information on how to stay safe in Mexico in my detailed post.

WHERE TO STAY IN CALAKMUL

The area offers a variety of accommodations for all needs and budgets. I have created a separate post where I will give you my reviews on the hotels as I have personally taken the time to visit some of them. You can check this article on the hotels in Calakmul Area .

Isabella is traveler and animal lover, a former tourism professional with an multinational background that lead her to Mexico, that she can proudly call home. After seven years in Cancun where she's still a resident, she took a bold leap, leaving her fancy job to embrace a nomadic lifestyle. She traveled all over Mexico, from Baja California to Ciudad Juarez, Oaxaca, Chiapas Hidalgo exploring and living like a local. Isabella founded Let's Travel to Mexico to help travelers plan their own trip on and off the beaten path in this beautiful land that she loves so dearly.

CALAKMUL   CAMPECHE

A unique Maya Capital City hidden deep in the largest jungle in Mexico

WELCOME TO  CALAKMUL

Travel through time with ka'an expeditions.

In Calakmul, the past comes alive as you climb the ancient Mayan structures of one of the most prominent cities of this historic people. With Ka’an Expeditions, you will explore not only majestic ruins but also immerse yourself in an ecological adventure in Mexico’s largest tropical reserve. Prepare yourself for an experience where history and nature meet in an eternal dance of beauty and mystery.

AUTHENTIC AND SUSTAINABLE EXPERIENCES

We are dedicated to offering tourist services for travelers with an adventurous spirit and a desire to understand other cultures and ecosystems. Our tours are designed to teach you about the biodiversity of Southeast Mexico and promote respect for our natural and cultural environment. By choosing us, you choose a way of traveling that cares for and respects the land and its inhabitants.

MORE THAN VISITORS, WE ARE FRIENDS

At Ka’an Expeditions, we believe that the best journeys are those shared. We welcome you not just as visitors, but as friends. We are committed to making your stay in Calakmul a warm, fun, and enriching experience. From the moment you arrive, we open not only the doors of our community but also our hearts.

COME AND LIVE CALAKMUL

Do not miss the opportunity to explore this unique enclave. Contact us today and discover why each tour with us is an unforgettable adventure. Live, love, and laugh as you dive into the magic of Calakmul.

read more About Calakmul...

CALAKMUL  

 A SEA OF JUNGLE

TOURS IN CALAKMUL

CALAKMUL ANCIENT MAYA CITY 

Join us on this full day tour to the magnificent Calakmul Archaeological Site. Submerged deep in the jungle, it's a great place to see wildlife such as toucans, parrots, monkeys, deer, wild pigs, even a jaguar if you are lucky.

Location: Calakmul Archaeological Site

Languages: English, Spanish

All included

Departures from: Xpujil, Campeche, Bacalar and Chetumal

Prices start at:

*Price may vary depending on the departure city for the tour

LIVING CULTURE -

Maya experience.

Visit a maya community next to the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve. Learn about their culture and traditions while they teach you how to make handcrafts, tortillas and to harvest honey.

Location:  Village 20 de Noviembre

Languages: Spanish

Departures from: Xpujil

*Price may vary depending on the departure city for the tour

SUNRISE HIKE AT CALAKMUL BIORESERVE

Sunrise is the best time to see wildlife in the jungle, as animals are hungry and eager to find some food. Join us on a hike where you will learn all about the local flora and fauna of the 2nd most important jungle in America.

Location: Calakmul Biosphere Reserve

ADVENTURE TRIP

Visit an unexcavated archaeological site. Get an idea of the archaeologist work to restore this amazing buildings. Access to these sites is restricted and 4x4 vehicles are needed.  *Hiking into site available: 20+km

Location: Oxpemul or Río Bec

RIO BEC SITES +

Local community.

Visit Xpujil, Becán and Chicanná ruins, and their magnificent and unique palatial architecture. After we will visit a local community where you can learn how local handcrafts are made and buy directly from the artisans. 

Location: Xpujil, Becán, Chicanná, Village.

KOHUNLICH &   DZIBANCHÉ

Discover the amazing stucco masks of Kohunlich, an ancient Maya city full of located 70 km West of Bacalar. Dzibanché probably one of the first capitals for the Ka´an Dynasty. 

Location: Kohunlich and Dzibanché 

Departures from: Bacalar

Use the code:

5 TIPS TO PLAN YOUR TRIP TO CALAKMUL

WHAT IS CALAKMUL?

Three different things are called Calakmul, so it´s important to understand the difference: 

  Calakmul Archaeological Site

  Calakmul Biosphere Reserve

  Calakmul Municipality

The Calakmul Municipality is the largest of them. The BioReserve is inside the Municipality, and the Archeological site inside the BioReserve.

Xpujil is the largest town with the most tourist services in the Calakmul Municipality.

WHERE IS CALAKMUL?

Most people are here to visit the Calakmul Archaeological Site. 

To get there it is important to consider that the site is 110 kilometers away from Xpujil. If you are driving, allow yourself  1.5 h for this trip.

The road is not in very good conditions so drive slowly and enjoy the view.​​

ON YOUR WAY IN TO CALAKMUL

T here are not grocery stores so keep in mind bring enough water and food supplies.

Xpujil is the main town where you can find gas stations. 

SAFETY FIRST

The Biosphere Reserve of Calakmul is humid and hot, so climate conditions might be adverse for some visitors.

We recommend carrying enough water and food at all times. One liter of water per person is the minimum recommended.

Do not go on the BioReserve trails by yourself. Always with an authorized guide.

Play it safe. Guarantee your experience by hiring bilingual certified guides and licensed touroperators.

ENTRANCE FEES AT CALAKMUL

There are 3 fees to pay when visiting Calakmul:

#1 at the turn off the highway: community fee $81 pesos per person.

#2 Located 20 km ahead of the first payment: biosphere Reserve fee $109 pesos per person. 

#3 At the archaeological site: $95 pesos per person.

In total you will pay $285 mexican pesos per person.

MORE ABOUT CALAKMUL

All the info you need to plan your trip to calakmul, 5 tips to plan your trip to calakmul, history of calakmul, how to get to calakmul, calakmul history.

A vast and uniform green savanna extends hundreds of kilometers far beyond our sight. The contrast between the deep greens and the cosmic blues of the sky is spellbinding. The Calakmul reserve is so enormous; Singapore could fit 10 times within its territory. It is home to flora and fauna only possible to spot within this region, such as spider monkeys, howler monkeys, deer, peccaries, turkeys, jaguars, pumas and ocelots.

The Calakmul region has no match. It houses the largest tropical reserve in Mexico and a large archaeological site that extends for 32 square kilometers. Around 6,000 ancient structures lie as a reminiscence of one of the most important and largest cities of the Mayan civilization. It is known that Calakmul was the capital of the Kingdom of the Serpent. Also known as the Kingdom of  Ka’an, it was the main adversary of the powerful Tikal.

In 2014 Calakmul was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List in the Mixed Category (Nature/Culture), acknowledging its unique and unrepeatable value in the relation established between Mayan Culture and nature. This heritage covers an area of 300 thousand hectares and has about 350 archeological sites; most of them are still closed to the public.

The archeological zone was discovered in 1931 while raw material was extracted to produce gum. Calakmul emerged during the Middle Preclassical and extended its hegemony until its decline in the Late Classic period.

HOW TO GET TO CALAKMUL - XPUJIL

From campeche.

The state capital is located at 300 kilometers from Xpujil at Calakmul.

The city by itself is worth visiting and staying for a couple of days at least.

There is an international airport here, but flights to this destination are usually above expensive.

First and second class buses available. Second class tickets only available at bus station.

Map & Directions

Private Transfer

From Cancun, Playa del Carmen, Tulum, Bacalar and Chetumal

For this route Cancún is the furthest starting point.

If you start in Cancún, consider at least one day for traveling by car, since 460 kilometers separate one place from the other, resulting in a six hour  drive.

If you arrive by domestic airlines, the closest airport to Calakmul is in Chetumal.

From Merida

Mérida is the state capital of Yucatán and one of this peninsula's largest and most important urban centers.

It is renowned for its architecture, gastronomy and people.

If your trip begins here, you should prepare for a half a day ride.

No direct buses from Mérida. Stopover at Campeche.

From Palenque

Palenque, as Calakmul is one of the most important and extraordinary Mayan archeological sites of all. 

Located in the state of Chiapas, its part of the same Mayan Route as Calakmul.

When coming from Palenque allow yourself at least a 4hrs trip. 

No direct buses from Palenque. Stopover at Escárcega.

ACHIEVEMENTS AND REVIEWS

We are always trying to improve our service so that we are constantly evolving and creating unforgettable memories of Calakmul to even the most demanding travellers.

Our most valuable asset to continue improving:

Our guests reviews.

CARBON NEUTRAL

Declaration.

Due to the present and future scenarios of global warming and climate change, we at Ka´an Expeditions have taken the decision to become a Neutral Carbon company. Meaning that all the direct CO2 (carbon dioxide) that our activities generate, will be neutralized by assuring that the same amount of gases remain collected or captured in the jungles of Calakmul, ensuring that these are not released to the atmosphere.

We have calculated the volume of emissions that our vehicles generate throughout one year, and have designated an area of jungle in the Valentín Gómez Farías community, Calakmul, Campeche, that will be taken care of and destined to its conservation to neutralize Ka´an Expeditions´s carbon footprint.

OUR ADDRESS

Av. Calakmul S/N, Xpujil, Calakmul, Campeche, México. CP24640.

Email: [email protected]

WhatsApp:  (+52) 981-136-0460

14:00 h - 21:00 h

Monday to Saturday

OPENING HOURS

Lunes - Sábado

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• Where do the tours depart from? As we are based in Xpujil, most of our tours depart from here, although we also have daily tours departing Campeche City, Bacalar and Chetumal. Price may vary depending on departure city. All tours includes round trip to the departure city selected. *Tours subject to availability.
• Can I be dropped off at a different city from where I started the tour? Yes! You can be dropped off at Xpujil for no extra cost. For other cities there's an extra cost for the private transportation service.
• Do I have to pay for my child's ticket? Children aged 1-5 are for free. Children aged 6 and above pay full price.
• I'm a solo traveler, can I join your tours? Yes! If there's another tour already organized for that same date you can join them. Our website booking system will allow you to buy 1 ticket if there's another tour. If not, we can put you on a wait list, or else you can pay for the minimum 2 tickets for a private tour. As we are based in Xpujil, and most our tours depart from here, you have more chances to join a tour if you start from here. Please contact us if you want to be added to the waitlist.
• What is included in the tours? All is included in our tours. We pick you up at your hotel and drop you off after the tour. Entrance fees and permits is all taken care of on our side. Water, sodas, and picnics (for full day tours) is also thought of so you are well nurtured to enjoy the activity! *Read exactly what's included on each tour on their description.

ACCOMODATION IN CALAKMUL

Looking for a place to stay in calakmul.

Casa Ka´an offers 6 beautifullly decorated cabanas completely surrounded by jungle.

If you want to stay in the jungle with all the modern ammenities, then Casa Ka´an is the place for you.

COVID has come to stay.

We need to change the way we take of ourselves and our loved ones. 

Each and everyone of us, at a personal or a business level must take action to combat the virus.

In Ka´an Expeditions we have prepared our team and our equipment, so that you have a safe and COVID free experience with us.

We have been awarded with the "Punto Limpio"  certification which is given by the Mexican Tourism Secretary to those establishments and businesses that have the highest standards of higiene and sanitation.

GuideVenturous

Two Adventurous Guides on an Expedition

What & Where is Calakmul

You want to visit Calakmul! It’s a hidden treasure of an abandoned ancient Mayan city, nestled deep in the jungle of Mexico!

Located in the state of Campeche on the Yucatan peninsula, it’s close to the border with Guatemala.

It is one of the largest Mayan sites ever discovered! Over 70 sq km large, it was once a powerful kingdom with more than 50.000 inhabitants and over 6000 structures!

The ancient Maya kingdom was actually not known as Calakmul. It was referred to as Ox Te’ Tuun, which means “Three Stones”. In the Classic period, it was most probably known as Kaan, the “Kingdom of the Snake”.

Calakmul is a more modern name – in the Mayan language, “ca” means two, “lak” means adjacent, and “mul” means pyramid. So the translation of Calakmul would be “Two Adjacent Pyramids”.

UNESCO World Heritage Site

How to get to Calakmul

Hidden deep in the heart of the jungle, to visit Calakmul is not the easiest thing to do. It is located inside the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve, 60 km from the nearest highway. You can only reach it following a narrow road through the jungle. Our driver told us that if you’re extremely lucky (or unlucky) you can spot jaguars along the way!

If you want to rent a car, the closest larger city is Chetumal, 3.5h drive away. Another possible way to visit Calakmul would be to take the bus from Chetumal to Xpujil (1h 45min) and then take a taxi, but it’s still about 2h drive away from there.

Here is what we did to visit Calakmul: We were staying in Campeche City and walking around town we spotted a few random posters from drivers offering a full day trip back and forth to Calakmul. We then also found 2 tour companies offering a full-day tour from Campeche. We ended up having a fully private tour with our driver. He picked us up at 4.30 am from our hotel at Balamku Campeche and brought us back at 6 pm. We paid 3000 pesos (around 120 EUR) for the 14h day trip for the 2 of us, which ended up being a reasonable deal for that 600 km road trip, especially given the fact that there really aren’t many other options.

Calakmul is definitely not an easy site to get to. But if you do make the effort, you’ll be rewarded! It’s seriously incredible!

Where to stay?

Just to stress this again, there is no accommodation available inside the Calakmul World Heritage Site/Biosphere Reserve area. On top of that, the area is huge. Your best option and the closest you can get is to stay in the small town of Xpujil. Less than 4000 people lived there in 2010 to give you an idea of how small it is. Xpujil still isn’t super close to Calakmul, it is still a 2-hour car ride  from there to visit Calakmul,

Since this is the way it is, and Xpujil wasn’t in the general direction of where we were heading we stayed in Campeche and did a really, really long day trip out of it instead. We still think that was a great decision.

If you decide to follow in our footsteps and visit Calakmul as a day trip from Campeche, we can happily recommend staying at the Balamku Hotel , as we did.

Our Hotel Recommendations

We spent a few nights upstairs in the Balamku Hotel inside the walls of the Campeche Old Town. This is a lovely little place that also serves a very nice breakfast. Since it’s inside the walls its super close to everything. We got good sleep here and in general really good value for money.

In Cabañas y Hostal Zoh Laguna 10 EUR per night will land you a bed in a dorm. What’s lovely about this place is the outdoor pool and the jungle setting. Bear in mind that Zoh Laguna is located a little bit off Xpujil, about 10 min drive in the opposite direction from Calakmul, which might be a little less convenient.

For 16 EUR per night you will get a simple private room in Hotel Chaac Calakmul , a hotel located in Xpujil, right by the highway to Calakmul.

Nicte-Ha is a nice 3 star hotel, and for 25 EUR per night you will get a lovely clean room with air-conditioning, wifi and a private bathroom.

Hotel Casa Las Lolas is located on the edge of Xpujil in a lovely jungle setting. For the same price of 40 EUR per night you can choose between a Double Room or a One-bedroom apartment, both equipped with a terrace, private bathroom and air-con.

Just off Xpujil on the way to Calakmul is Casa Ka’an , a beautiful place a little more tucked away in the jungle but still very close to the highway, which makes it very convenient. For 60 EUR, including a lovely breakfast, you will have a full bungalow-style house all to yourself. You’ll have a nice terrace, wifi, and a fully equipped kitchen too.

How far is Calakmul from Mexico City and the airport

Calakmul is basically really far from everywhere. 🙂 The closest airport to Calakmul is actually in Belize and not in Mexico, which already speaks for itself. Even if you did land at Belize airport, it’s not exactly like you can just walk through the jungle across the border and into the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve. You could technically cross the border into Mexico and get to Chetumal right on the other side of the border, and then follow the route we described above. You could also take a direct flight from Mexico City to Chetumal (there are direct flights every day and the trip takes 1h45 min).

Alternatively, you can take a 2h direct flight from Mexico City to Campeche and then visit Calakmul as a day trip from Campeche, like we did.

Why is Calakmul a World Heritage Site

Everyone following our Travel Challenge to visit all UNESCO World Heritage sites in the world, you know that we love to explain why each place is listed as UNESCO, and with Calakmul it’s not different.

“Ancient Maya City and Protected Tropical Forests of Calakmul” was declared UNESCO in 2002 for its cultural and environmental importance.

Calakmul was one of the most important Mayan cities that played a major role in the history of the region. On top of that, the structures are incredibly well preserved and located deep in the jungle, within the Mesoamerican biodiversity hotspot. If you want to read more, head over to our Calakmul UNESCO page .

FUN FACT: Because of its remote location in the middle of the jungle it stayed hidden and unexplored until recently. Only a small portion of the massive site has been explored and excavated to date. This is indeed a great time to visit Calakmul.

How to get around Calakmul

The best and basically the only way to visit Calakmul is by car. The Biosphere Reserve is simply ginormous and there is no way you could walk the 60km through jungle to the entrance from the nearest highway. Once you reach the entrance, you will park your car and continue exploring on foot.

How much time to visit the Calakmul Maya Ruins

Unless you’re staying in Xpujil, you will need a full day to visit Calakmul from any of the starting points. You actually probably need it even if you are staying in Xpujil. We started our day-trip at 4.30 am from Campeche and got back around 18.00. We stopped for a big breakfast on the way and packed our backpacks with snacks for a whole day out exploring. It was an almost 5h drive each way, which left us with around 4h to explore the Calakmul Mayan Ruins complex.

Things to do around Calakmul

Due to its extremely remote location, there aren’t really that many other things to do around Calakmul than visiting ruins. But there are still a few places you can try to squeeze into your itinerary. We’re sharing two of them below. When you visit Calakmul you should also try to see the following:

Visit the Archaeological Site of Balamku

For some reason, Balamku isn’t very well known and most people seem to miss it or skip it. It came suggested by our Balamku Hotel for obvious reasons. When you visit Calakmul you are actually visiting an area full of cool Archaeological Sites. They are all part of the Calakmul UNESCO World Heritage Site Calakmul.

We think that’s it’s really worth stopping by, as it’s not really a detour and it’s not difficult to get to, once you’re already in the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve.

After you visit Calakmul, all other Maya sites are small. Balamku is a very important site, especially because of its large stucco frieze, one of the largest preserved of its kind.

• Opening hours: 8.00 to 17:00
• Price 50 pesos (2 EUR)

Visit the Archaeological Site of Xpujil

Another place you could see when you visit Calakmul is the Archaeological Site of Xpujil. It’s still a good 2 hours drive away. If you decide to stay overnight in Xpujil, you could include a visit to the ruins afterwards, or on the next day, if you’re not completely “ruined out” after climbing up and down the pyramids of Calakmul.

• Opening hours: 8:00-17:00
• Entrance fee: 50 pesos (2 EUR)

Our visit Calakmul insider tips

• Entrance fee to visit Calakmul: 65+55 pesos per person (5 EUR). The first 65 pesos are for the National Park Fee and will be collected at the entrance. Then once you reach the Calakmul Ruins you will pay the remaining 55 pesos.
• Make sure to pack plenty of snacks and a lot of water when you visit Calakmul.
• We also recommend packing sunscreen and mosquito repellent, you will be walking through the hot jungle and will be happy to have both with you.
• If you rent a car and decide to self-drive, make sure to fill your tank latest at Xpujil, there aren’t any gas stations afterwards.
• On a clear day, you can actually see Guatemala from the top of the Great Calakmul Pyramid so make sure to check if you can see it.
• Keep your eyes out for the wildlife. We got to see monkeys, wild turkeys, a jackal, a fox and many birds. If you’re extremely lucky when you visit Calakmul you could even spot the rare jaguar, which the ancient Mayans considered a sacred animal.

Travel Safe visiting Calakmul

Never travel without travel insurance ! This is the most important travel advice we can give to anyone, always. When you visit Calakmul is no exception, quite the opposite. We can highly recommend HeyMondo . We’ve been using them for years and they’re great. We normally have yearly travel insurance with them. This is great value for money if you, like us, travel a lot during the year. They also do short trip coverage ., so you can choose what works best for you. What makes them unique and super helpful is their mobile app. It allows you to chat with a doctor 24/7 and always call for free as long as you have internet access. We all know that phone bills can go through the roof when you’re abroad, so we are very happy with that option. And most importantly, they cover Covid-19 related expenses.

Best Photo Spots in Calakmul

Structure i.

Structure II - The Great Pyramid

The trees - Pocahontas vibe

The wall “window” at Balamku

Do you guys feel like now you know a bit more about this ancient hidden jungle treasure? We really hope you will visit Calakmul, this is an unspoiled gem. Would you add it to your list of places to see in Mexico? Let us know!

Calakmul Photo Gallery

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Explore the Mexican Jungle and the Ancient Mayan City of Calakmul in This Episode of 'Walk With T+L'

This thousand-year-old city is about to see a tourism boom.

In the middle of the Campeche jungle, at the base of the Yucatan Peninsula , lies the largest protected forest reserve in Mexico and one of the country's most underrated attractions: the ancient Mayan city of Calakmul . Or, at least, what remains of it.

In this episode of Walk With T+L , Campeche tourism coordinator Erik Mendicuti Polanco guides viewers through this maze of stone and forest. Comprised of various stone pyramids and other structures, Calakmul emits the same sort of mystical energy found in other ancient Mayan sites throughout Mexico, such as Chichen Itza . Though Calakmul, Polanco points out, is about 1,000 years older than its more famous counterpart.

"How could this not be my favorite place in the Mayan world?" Polanco quips from the top of Calakmul's largest structure, a pyramid referred to as Sacred Mountain. It's here that Polanco regales viewers with a story of the time an American tourist climbed the pyramid with him and wept at the sprawling sight from the summit.

But incredible views aren't Calakmul's only draw. Google will tell you the city is an archaeological site , but Polanco rejects that as Calakmul's only definition.

"Calakmul is much more than an archaeological site," he explains. "There's so much to see."

Polanco suggests walking the trails that surround Calakmul to learn more about nature and the culture of the ancient Mayans. He also describes these trails as "paradise" for birdwatchers.

Still, the guide says Calakmul is an immensely important factor in helping archaeologists, historians, and travelers understand Mayan culture. The city is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and welcomes tourists from all over the world to walk the grounds and climb Sacred Mountain (which Polanco suggests doing from the side, no matter how tempting the front may be).

You can book your tour and travel to a nearby city here.

Hillary Maglin is a digital editor who splits most of her time between New York City and Pittsburgh. You can find her on Instagram @hillarymaglin , where her DMs are always open to discuss travel gear, wine bars, and Taylor Swift's latest record.

Visiting Calakmul: Pyramids & Wildlife in Southern Campeche

Last Updated on: 3rd August 2023, 11:07 pm

Despite being one of the most powerful Mayan cities in history, Calakmul only attracts a fraction of the attention of sites like Chichén Itzá . Located deep in the jungle about two hours by car from the town of Xpujil , it’s easily one of Mexico’s most isolated Mayan sites. But those visiting Calakmul will be rewarded with the chance to climb one of Mesoamerica’s tallest pyramids while observing abundant wildlife.

The Calakmul Biosphere Reserve (of which the archaeological site is part) can be visited in tandem with the ruins of Balamkú, while an astounding bat exodus can be witnessed later in the evening.

All you need to know about visiting Calakmul will be covered in the following guide, while you can learn more about reaching Xpujil down below.

Calakmul: A Brief History

• Calakmul Visiting Tips

The Calakmul Biosphere Reserve

Exploring the calakmul ruins.

• Accommodation & Transport Info

Evidence suggests that Calakmul was first occupied as early as 450 BC. Located near Campeche’s border with Guatemala, the city’s history is intimately tied with Guatemala’s Petén region.

The city’s royal dynasty was known as Kaan, or ‘snake.’ As such, Calakmul was likely referred to as the ‘Kingdom of the Snake’ in its day. The dynasty possibly originated at the city of El Mirador, present-day Guatemala. 

On the other hand, based on an inscription found at Dzibanché , Quintana Roo, some scholars suggest that the Kaans originated there.

Calakmul was already a thriving city during the Preclassic period (1000 BC-250 AD), largely thanks to its massive reservoirs which provided inhabitants with sustenance during the long dry seasons.

The city was then at its peak during the Classic period (250-900 AD), housing around 50,000 people in the 7th century. Calakmul contained nearly 7,000 structures in total, including one of the highest pyramids of the Mayan world (now known as Structure 2). And Calakmul was the heart of a much larger kingdom which encompassed dozens of other cities.

Calakmul’s biggest rival was Tikal (current Guatemala), whom it would defeat multiple times in battle. But Calakmul would eventually be defeated by Tikal in the year 695, and they’d lose much of their southern territories. They’d then turn north, establishing relationships with the cities of the Río Bec region.

Both Mayan superpowers would eventually collapse by the end of the Classic period. But like many fallen Mayan cities, Calakmul would remain a pilgrimage center up until the 16th century.

The archaeological site is now part of the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve which takes up over 7,300 square km and is home to a wide variety of wildlife. As you’ll notice when visiting Calakmul, in contrast to other Mayan sites, most of its trees have been left in place so as not to disturb the natural habitat.

Another interesting fact is that Calakmul contains the largest number of stelae in the entire Mayan world, with over 120 of them in total. The oldest dates to the year 435 AD, while the last dates to 909.

Visiting Calakmul: Basic Info & Tips

The Calakmul Biosphere Reserve and ruins are located deep in the jungles of southern Campeche. The nearest town is Xpujil, though some people stay in the reserve itself (learn more about accommodation below ).

GETTING THERE:  While there’s no public transportation available to Calakmul, getting there is easy. Most guest houses and hotels in Xpujil can arrange a shuttle for you the day before, which simply involves sharing a car with a few other people.

If your itinerary includes the bat exodus, the bats don’t emerge from their cave until around 17:30 in the evening. Therefore, most excursions won’t depart until 9:00 or 10:00 in the morning. But I requested an earlier departure time of 8:00 and I’m glad I did, as this allowed us to take our time at each site.

From Xpujil, the ride out to Calakmul takes around two hours each way! It’s also important to note that large sections of Calakmul were inaccessible during my visit, but the site still took a while to explore.

PRICES:   The standard cost for the shuttle is $500 MXN per person, and this usually includes a trip to the bat cave later in the evening. As I wanted to visit the ruins of Balamkú as well, I arranged to visit the three places for $600 MXN per person.

In regards to pricing at Calakmul, you’ll actually have to pay three separate times – two tickets near the entrance to the Biosphere Reserve, and then another ticket at the ruins themselves. 

At the time of writing, the three tickets to Calakmul add up to $250 MXN. The ruins of Balamkú cost $85 MXN and the Bat Cave $75 MXN.

Fortunately, there is an ATM in the town of Xpujil if you need one.

SNACKS AND WATER: This is a long day with no stops for lunch, so be sure to come prepared with something to eat. If you forget, they do sell some snacks at the entrance to Calakmul.

WHEN TO VISIT: While I’m generally mindful to avoid archaeological sites on the weekends, the day of the week didn’t cross my mind when arranging my trip to Calakmul.

The town of Xpujil itself is so remote and, as mentioned, Calakmul is no less than two hours away. I was mainly concerned with being able to find other passengers that were willing to pay extra for Balamkú. So once my guest house confirmed they’d found others who were interested, I confirmed for the next day.

The next day happened to be Sunday, but I was still surprised to see so many people at Calakmul. The crowds were nowhere near those of Chichén Itzá or even Uxmal , but there were enough people that it was difficult to photograph the ruins with nobody in the shot. 

Therefore, if you can, always avoid weekends – even at ultra remote sites like Calakmul!

Balamkú is situated about an hour west of the town of Xpujil, right across from the start of the path leading to Calakmul. As mentioned above, the members of my group and I paid a bit extra so that our driver would take us here before visiting Calakmul.

Balamkú translates to ‘Jaguar’s Temple,’ and most of its major structures were built between 300-600 AD. The city was then ultimately abandoned from around the year 1000.

It’s one of multiple sites in what’s known as the Río Bec region, though it also surely had ties with Calakmul in its prime.

Balamkú’ is relatively small, and frankly speaking, its structures aren’t all that impressive compared to the other Río Bec sites. But with one major exception.

The main reason to visit Balamkú is for its impeccably-preserved stucco artwork – among the finest of its kind in the Mayan world. 

But first, feel free to climb the structures that you pass along the way. Unlike at Calakmul, where we’d encounter a surprising amount of people, my travel companions and I had Balamkú all to ourselves.

The highlight of the archaeological site is currently enclosed within a protective structure nearby the main pyramid. When you’re ready, a local guard will come and open it for you.

The jaw-dropping frieze depicts the Mayan underworld and it also contains symbolism related to the cycles of the sun. One scene depicts the king emerging from the Earth Monster after death, a symbol of spiritual resurrection. 

Like the Egyptians , the Mayans saw the sunrise as representative of resurrection and the sunset as a symbol of death. Other imagery here, meanwhile, includes jaguars and amphibians, who represented the transition to the afterlife.

While most of those visiting Calakmul overlook Balamkú entirely, it’s well worth arranging a stop here either in the morning or afternoon.

Turning off the highway, the journey to the archaeological site takes another hour. But this is no time for sleeping, as you’ll want to keep a keen eye out for wildlife along the way. The massive reserve, established in 1989, takes up 7,231 km2 and is home to a wide variety of flora and fauna.

Some of the animals that call this region their home include tapirs, jaguars, ocelots, toucans, ocellated turkeys, crocodiles and many more.

But as this is the wild, no two groups of people are going to spot the exact same animals. In my case, during the ride, we briefly spotted a pig-like animal known as a peccary and a large bird called a great curassow.

But the most common animal around these parts is the ocellated turkey. Native to the Yucatán Peninsula, these beautiful birds with their multicolored wings almost look more like peacocks than your average turkey.

As we’ll go over below, you’ll also have a high chance of spotting wildlife at the ruins themselves – especially monkeys.

As mentioned above, you’ll first have to purchase two tickets upon entering the Biosphere Reserve and then another at the ruins themselves.

As one of the most powerful cities in Mayan history, Calakmul is absolutely huge, and it would take several hours to explore in full. At the time of my visit, however, entire sections to both the west (the Great Acropolis) and the east (the Little Acropolis) were off-limits to visitors.

Even with large parts inaccessible, it still took us a few hours to see everything at a leisurely pace. As most structures are climbable, getting up and down the massive pyramids will take up a large part of your time at the site.

The Northern Section

One of the first landmarks you’ll encounter is a housing complex called ‘Taman,’ which was a group of residences built around a courtyard.

Moving along, you’ll reach what’s known as the Northeast Group, which is a series of buildings atop a manmade platform. Outside stand two stelae erected in 741 in the midst of Calakmul’s political decline.

Walking up a set of stairs, the upper part of the structure features three buildings facing a small plaza. They likely served some sort of administrative function for the Calakmul elite.

As you’ll quickly notice, Calakmul was such a sprawling city that many of its landmarks are separated by forested trails. As mentioned, you’re bound to see plenty of wildlife as you walk from section to section – especially spider and howler monkeys.

Next comes yet another housing complex known as ‘Chaan Ch’iich’ which was equipped with its own drainage system. New additions to the houses were gradually added as families grew.

Just before reaching the Great Plaza, you’ll pass by Structure 8, which may have served as an astronomical observation post. Nearby stands Stele 1, erected in 721 AD. Like many of Calakmul’s stelae, most of the glyphs aside from the date are no longer legible.

The Great Plaza

The Great Plaza, which measures out to 250 m x 150 m, could be considered the city center and home to Calakmul’s largest structures. It’s also where its most significant religious and administrative ceremonies took place.

The area is one of the oldest sections of Calakmul, having been inhabited since at least 400 BC. Amazingly, the plaza remained inhabited until well after Calakmul’s fall, with religious rituals being carried out here until at least 1500.

Entering the plaza, the first pyramidal building you’ll encounter is known as Structure 7.

Standing at 23 meters high, the top of Structure 7 offers what are arguably the best views of the Great Plaza and Calakmul’s largest pyramid, Structure 2.

Like many of the structures surrounding the plaza, this one contained a tomb of a former ruler. His name was Yuknoom Took K’awiil, and one of his jade masks is on display at the San Miguel Fort Archaeology Museum in Campeche .

It was also found with earplugs containing a square in the middle which represented the four corners of the Mayan universe. The scrolls in the nose, meanwhile, symbolized the ‘breath of life’ being inhaled through the mask.

It may have also been Structure 7 where one of Calakmul’s most famous masks, now on display at the Maya Architecture Museum in central Campeche, was discovered. Confusingly, however, some sources claim that the mask was actually found in Structure 2. 

In any case, you can find a replica in the on-site museum area near the ruins entrance.

As mentioned, the views from the top of Structure 7 are spectacular. Straight ahead, you’ll be able to see the massive Structure 2 emerging above the distant treetops. And over to the left is yet another tall pyramid, Structure 1. As we’ll cover shortly, both can be climbed.

On the western side of the plaza is Structure 6, a three-tiered pyramidal structure with a long building on top. Archaeologists believe it would’ve been used to observe solstices and equinoxes. The stelae still standing on top were erected in 702.

On the opposite side of the plaza is the long Structure 4, atop which once stood twin temples and no less than 14 stelae. It once housed the tomb of a ruler, though it was found looted. Some items were salvaged, however, and are now on display at the San Miguel Fort Archaeology Museum in Campeche. 

In the southern part of the plaza, just before the massive Structure 2 pyramid, is what’s known as Structure 5.

Notably, its upper building was built in the architectural style of Río Bec, proving that there was indeed a relationship with the region, despite there being no inscriptions about it in Río Bec itself.

Outside, you’ll find Stelae 28 and 29, erected in the 620s AD, which were intended to represent a former ruling couple. Nearby is Stele 33, erected in 675 by the powerful ruler Yukom the Great.

Structure 2 (Calakmul's Tallest Pyramid)

Calakmul’s tallest pyramid, simply titled ‘Structure 2,’ rises above its surroundings at 45 m high. That makes it the second-highest Mayan pyramid in Mexico, topped only by Toniná in Chiapas. 

And at the time of writing, the pyramid is completely climbable. The experience ends up being the main highlight for many of those visiting Calakmul.

Some type of structure existed here since at least the 5th century BC, and it was continually expanded and modified until the 8th century AD. As you’ll soon find out, one can’t get the full picture of its shape while standing at the base.

The pyramid is a very complex structure with seven buildings inside of it and no less than four tombs.

The Tombs of Calakmul

As mentioned above, many of the structures around Calakmul contained elaborate tombs of former rulers. Not unlike the Egyptian pharaohs, Mayan rulers would typically be buried with their goods, which were believed to aid them in their journey through the underworld.

One of the rulers buried in Structure 2 was Yuknoom Yichʼaak Kʼahkʼ, who ruled from 686-698. His body was found laid atop a wooden stretcher, adorned with various pieces of shells, beads and jade jewelry. 

A recreation of his tomb can be found at Campeche’s San Miguel Fort Archaeology Museum. Also on display there is an elaborate funeral headdress which resembles that of the Maize God.

Interestingly, buried together with him were a young woman and a pre-teen boy.

Mayan funerary masks were believed to aid one’s transition to the afterlife. While some masks closely resembled the ruler’s actual likeness, others were exaggerated to appear more like Mayan deities.

The Mayans used various materials for their funerary masks, but many rulers preferred jade. Not only was it the most precious material to the Mayans (even more so than gold), but it was also believed to protect the deceased’s spirit after death.

While not everyone visiting Calakmul ends up making it to the state capital of Campeche, it’s there that you’ll be able to see many more exquisite artifacts discovered in tombs throughout the site.

As you ascend the central staircase, bear in mind that it would’ve originally been lined on either side by large stucco masks. 

Also along the structure are numerous stelae, among them Stele 43, the very oldest monument in Calakmul. But much of its glyphs are indecipherable.

Just when you think you’ve reached the top, you’ll realize that there’s still a whole additional section to climb. Structure 2 represented the sacred mountain of Mayan cosmology, and the ascent does indeed feel a bit like climbing a mountain.

Unfortunately, the weather was rather gloomy during my visit, but the views were spectacular nonetheless. Surrounded by such a flat landscape, it felt as if we were at the top of the world.

One could only imagine what the experience of standing up here would’ve been like in Calakmul’s prime.

Structure 3

Built in the Petén style of Guatemala, Structure 3 was constructed during the Classic period and was hardly modified since. A tomb of a former ruler was discovered inside, while archaeologists also believe that the ruler’s descendants continued living in the palace on top for generations.

The expressive funerary mask discovered here can now be seen in Campeche alongside many of the others.

Some of the rooms of the former palace can be entered. And at the time of my visit, the top of the structure offered clear views of monkeys in the nearby treetops.

Structure 1

Southeast of Structure 2 is yet another impressive pyramid known as Structure 1. By now, you’ll have already seen it from the tops of both Structure 7 and Structure 2.

At 40 meters high, it’s just slightly shorter than Structure 2. And this pyramid can also be climbed. But first, notice the three altars at the base which are associated with the constellation Orion. Also nearby is a rocky outcrop with carvings of the gods.

Making the long climb up, my companions and I intended to sit down and consume our snacks before making the journey back to the entrance. But just as we reached the top, we got caught in a downpour. 

Fortunately, this was the last accessible structure to see, and the rain let up by the time we reached our next destination, the Bat Cave.

The Bat Cave

Back on the main road and a bit east in the direction of Xpujil is the Bat Cave, or Cueva de Los Murciélagos. All those visiting Calakmul should be sure to witness this amazing spectacle which occurs nearly every evening.

The bats who live in this cave, which is really a cenote (natural sinkhole), emerge each evening to search for food. But there are millions of them, and what you’ll witness is a constant flow of countless bats emerging from the opening and up into the air.

Previously, I’d witnessed a similar spectacle on the other side of the world at Mulu National Park in Malaysian Borneo. But while that occurrence could only be viewed from a distant viewing platform, here we were standing next to the opening.

The bats began to emerge at exactly 17:45 (though this varies by season). And visitors were allowed to watch for around twenty minutes or so before we were told it was time to head back. 

But even as we were walking back to the parking lot, the flow of bats showed no sign of letting up. As amazing as the ruins were, this turned out to be one of the highlights of the long and eventful day.

Additional Info

While I’d recommend most travelers to Calakmul base themselves in the nearby town of Xpujil for a few days to experience the ruins there, not everyone has the time.

Fortunately, it is indeed possible to visit Calakmul as a day trip from other cities by hiring a private tour.

This tour  takes visitors there from Campeche, with the entire excursion lasting no less than 15 hours!

This tour , meanwhile, can take you to Calakmul from Bacalar.

As small and remote as Xpujil may be, its location on the main highway between the cities of Chetumal and Escárcega means it’s not that difficult to reach.

For those coming from Campeche, at the time of my visit in 2022, direct coach buses were available from the Sur bus terminal. I took a 13:30 bus that arrived several hours later. I believe there was also a bus departing around 8:00. As the timetables seem to change frequently, be sure to confirm at the bus station in advance (no web sites seem to list this route for whatever reason).

If direct buses from Campeche don’t happen to be available at the time of your visit, take a colectivo or coach bus to Escárcega and then transfer there.

For those coming from the opposite direction, buses running west from Chetumal and Bacalar (both in Quintana Roo) also run along this highway.

There’s also a regular bus route running in between Palenque , Chiapas and Chetumal/Bacalar that will pass through Xpujil, but they only seem to run at night.

Xpujil’s bus terminal is conveniently located right in the center of town.

Also note that in between Xpujil and Bacalar lie two excellent ruins called Kohunlich and Dzibanché. As public transport to them would be tricky if not impossible, you may want to hire a private driver on your way to one town or the other.

With a driver from my guest house, I arranged a trip that began in Xpujil, stopped at the two sites, and ended in Bacalar for $1500 MXN.

As Calakmul becomes more well-known, more and more travelers are including the nearest town of Xpujil in their itineraries. Additionally, as the beautiful lagoon of Bacalar becomes increasingly popular, many are realizing that Xpujil is a quick drive away.

As such, there are quite a few accommodation options to choose from. Being a budget traveler who prefers a private room and bathroom, I went with Hotel Chaac Calakmul . I had a nice experience there, as it was well-located and had functioning internet and AC.

I paid roughly $14 USD per nigh including tax. The owners also run a travel agency, so it was easy to arrange private transport with one of them to Kohunlich and Dzibanché. They also arranged shared transport to Calakmul for $500-600 MXN.

Some people prefer to stay within the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve itself which would be a great opportunity to observe wildlife. If you’re considering this, you’d probably need your own car, as the site is nearly an hour from the highway. While I have no experience with them, you might want to contact Visit Calakmul  for more information.

Note that while staying in Calakmul would be a great experience for those hoping to see animals and visit the ruins upon opening, they would make for an inconvenient base for visiting the Río Bec sites, which should definitely not be missed.

Regular shuttles can be arranged from Xpujil to Calakmul, but not from Calakmul to Xpujil, as far as I’m aware.

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Calakmul: impressive Mayan city in the beautiful Mexican jungle

Calakmul is a large, ancient Mayan city and surrounding bioreserve on the Rutas de la Arqueología of southeastern Mexico. About 30 km (19 mi) from the border with Guatemala, the Maya built a large city here, where at least 60,000 people lived about 1,500 years ago. According to some estimates, even millions of people. Very impressive!

What makes Calakmul so special is its remote location in the middle of the jungle. From the highest temples you have a magnificent view above the treetops. Beautiful!

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Calakmul is a city that the Maya built in the so-called Classic Period (250 to 900 AD). It is located in a tropical rainforest (bioreserve) with the same name, which is called Reserva de la Biosfera Calakmul in full.

Calakmul was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2002 (city) and 2014 (bioreserve). It is therefore centuries old history what you will find here. Everything made by hand, without modern techniques, and that in the middle of the dense jungle! Really super cool.

Calakmul lies somewhere between Bacalar and Chetumal on one side (186), and Escarcega and Campeche on the other. Campeche is also the name of one of the 32 Mexican states, which Calakmul belongs to. For us Calakmul was a perfect stop (with overnight stay) en route between Bacalar and Palenque. Countless people drive past it, without realizing how fantastically beautiful this more than 723,000 hectares of bioreserve is.

Calakmul was one of the largest Maya cities in the 2nd half of the Classic Period. At that time, the city was known as Kaan. A city of artists and painters.

The entrance to Calakmul bioreserve is at the 98 km post on the Carr. Chetumal Escarcega. On Google Maps you will find this gateway under the name Entronque A Calakmul . See also the mobile map later in this article.

In the Calakmul bioreserve (and the Yucatan Peninsula) there are about 1600 different plant species and many different and special wild animals. For example:

• two kinds of jaguars, the puma, two kinds of leopards
• tapirs, opossums, skunks, anteaters, armadillos
• black howler monkeys, spider monkeys
• martens, otters, foxes, peccary piggies, deer
• bats, crocodiles

Some of these animal species are in danger of extinction. Calakmul represents the most important conservation area for felines in Mexico. Besides about 50 species of reptiles and about 400 different butterflies, this is also home to 282 bird species. For example: toucans, parakeets, parrots, trogons, peacock turkeys, king vultures, owls and eagles.

During our visit we saw a number of species of birds (including an owl), golden hares ( aguiti ), salamanders, a mole, a mega beetle, bush turkeys and crocodiles. With a lot of luck you will see a jaguar or a boar, but it is rare. If you are particularly interested in felines, I would recommend that you do a specific tour for that.

We have not seen or heard black Mexican howler monkeys at the archaeological zone. We did see these monkeys at the parking lot of our accommodation, just outside the entrance gate of the bioreserve. You can also enjoy breakfast, lunch and dinner there. Not cheap, but tasty. More on that later in this article.

When you turn from the main road between Escarcega and Bacalar, you immediately see the entrance of the bioreserve. After paying the entrance fee you can drive through the gate into the nature reserve towards the archaeological zone. We meet our guide Louis at Hotel Puerta Calakmul.

We park the car at the building of the entrance gate and go inside to pay the entrance ticket and a brown wristband in cash. With us this was (90 + 60 =) MEX 150 per person. The wristbands are an old-fashioned system to clearly show that you have paid during your visit. Don’t forget your mouth cap… they are formally required now (but are only maintained at the entrance gate).

Bring at least a liter of water per person with you, or buy it at the entrance gate. nothing will be sold after that. Hotel Puerta Calakmul has delicious lunch boxes (MEX 150 each).

From the entrance gate it is about 60 km (37 mi) drive to the archaeological zone of Calakmul. It will easily take you about 1.5 hours. Luckily we chat a long way away with our guide Louis, which makes the time fly by. Louis is from the area of ​​the bioreserve, also works at the entrance and has deliberately chosen a simpler life on his small farm.

The road is asphalted, two cars can just pass each other. There are also quite a few potholes in the road, so be careful. Broken branches can block the way. It’s a matter of getting out, removing a branch and driving on again. Welcome to the jungle!

We stop somewhere half way. Our guide takes us up a narrow hiking trail. After a few hundred meters we come to a very small lake. One of the residents, a crocodile about 2 meters long, looks at us curiously with his eyes just above the water. Yikes!

His bigger brother is completely submerged in the middle of the lake. So don’t take a cooling dip here… Our guide shows another tarantula burrow, but it didn’t give a home. Maybe as well. We walk back to the car. The ground is bone dry, unfortunately it hasn’t rained here for a long time.

We had left our hotel around 08:00h, but when we arrived at the real entrance of the archaeological zone, we had to make an effort to find a free parking space. We are clearly not the only visitors today. Although the ‘busyness’ here cannot be compared with, for example, Chichen Itza. After all it is right in the middle of the Christmas holidays, busiest time of the year.

We pay cash MEX 80 per person entrance and retire to the toilets. Then Louis starts to tell everything about Calakmul and the Maya on the basis of a model, information boards and images. Very interesting! The information boards immediately after the toilets at the entrance are in Spanish only. Further on, most signs are in English and Spanish.

We walk from one building to another. It is warm, but all very beautiful and impressive. After every twist in the trail, another picture of a temple emerges, hidden behind the beautiful surrounding trees. Unfortunately, the temples cannot be visited from the inside – as with the pyramids of Abu Simbel in southern Egypt . Wall paintings would also have been found there.

We are amazed and every now and then we climb a temple. Be careful, because they are quite steep and if you are not careful you can slip. Louis explains in detail how the Maya lived here at the time. And every now and then we spot an animal. In retrospect, Calakmul was the most special place for us during our 18-day round trip through Southeast Mexico.

Some idiots seem to have had the nerve recently to scratch their names in the stones at one of the temples. I was reminded for a moment of Auschwitz , where young people had scratched their names on the bed boards. How on earth do you manage to behave like that, moreover at such a historically important place? Really shameless. Please don’t do that!

The archaeological site of Calakmul is located tens of kilometers from the border with Guatemala. From 537 AD there have been several wars between Calakmul and Tikal , which is located in Guatemalan jungle on the other side.

In the heyday, about 60,000 people lived in Calakmul. The stone houses were inhabited by the Maya elite, the richer people. The rest lived outside the village in simple wooden houses. Overpopulation is partly the cause of the ultimate demise of the Maya dynasty. Although about 6-7 million people still speak the Mayan language today.

Maya drawings are often combinations of human and animal body parts. The Maya have at least 21 different gods. Basically they believed that all forces of nature were divine. Corn is also sacred to the Maya.

In an image we see a female figure wearing a translucent robe. The Maya did not walk around naked. Another figure is grinding cocoa beans in a ceramic bowl. The Mexicans still love chocolate in their dishes, for example chicken.

The Maya were not a wanderlust people, but they had no shortage of fighting spirit. Maya lived over a large area that spans the Yucatan Peninsula of Mexico, parts of Belize, Guatemala, El Salvador and Honduras. The most important similarity is in any case the spoken language. Only the elite of the Maya population could write and read (well). The Maya script consists of about 1,200 different hieroglyphs.

Only a few books have survived from the centuries that this population lived. There are about 1,200 archaeological zones in the state of Campeche alone. You can visit 16 of them, including Calakmul. Unfortunately, government investment to discover more archaeological zones and open them up to the public is lagging behind.

The most spectacular temples of Calakmul are the high pyramid-shaped Estructura I and Esctructura II. The nearly 50 meter high Esctructura II is located on the south side of the main square of Calakmul. It’s a bit of a climb up, but then you also get something special…

It is around 1:00 PM when we start to climb the stone steps of Esctructura III. The temperature has now risen to above 30°C (86°F). Fortunately, the right staircase is in the shade at this time of day. The view will be worth the muscle aches tomorrow.

360° view over the treetops. wow! Truly beautiful up here.

Estructura II proved that the highest platform does not necessarily offer the best view. A stone platform one level below slightly obscures the view over the treetops as seen from the highest point of this temple. See the middle of the three photos below. The platform at the top of the middle stairs offers the best view of the surrounding jungle in my opinion. So cool!

Some bare-chested muppet climbs a wall of Esctructura II for a photo – no doubt for his social media account. sigh. That is not allowed, climbing on the walls. I personally also find it very disrespectful, so bare-chested on a temple, no matter how hot it is! A guard calls him downstairs. Drone flying is also not allowed here.

Our guide Louis told us that an earthquake in 2017 damaged a number of buildings in Calakmul to such an extent that they can no longer be visited by visitors. This includes the Royal Buildings. Certain places are also sometimes closed due to archaeological work. We were not bothered by that at all; there is still more than enough to see.

When we get back to the car around 2:30 PM, my feet hurt from walking. Hungry I work the lunch box inside. We drive the same way back to the entrance gate. Around 4:10 PM we are back at the hotel near the gate. We have a drink in the restaurant and then load our luggage, which has just been set up at the reception.

Unfortunately our accommodation from last night, Hotel Puerta Calakmul, is full for next night, so we cannot stay there for a second night. In just over an hour we drive at sunset to a cheap but neat hotel in Escarcega . Wine, splash in the pool… Well it was my day! Thanks Calakmul and Louis, it was great!

We were really broken. A quick bite to eat among the locals across the street from the hotel, and off to bed. Glad we didn’t have to drive all the way to Bacalar or Palenque after sunset. Tomorrow is another day.

Calakmul can be visited with or without a guide. We chose to arrange a licensed guide through our hotel and were very happy with that. You hear and see so much more with a good guide than when you visit the area independently.

Our guide Louis tells passionately about the Maya and Calakmul. He speaks very good English and tells many interesting things. And that is not just limited to the bioreserve. We really clicked with him. Louis made our day in Calakmul a memorable one. He is good at spotting animals!

Arrange your guide to Calakmul in advance. There are no guides waiting for potential customers at the entrance – as with some other major archaeological sites.

You can arrange a professional guide for Calakmul in several ways. You can inquire by email at Hotel Puerta Calakmul , although I do not know whether they also do this mediation without an overnight stay. We paid for the guide MEX 1300 for two people, excluding entrance.

We gave our guide a small tip afterwards. Louis can be reached directly via (the phone number on) his Facebook page Ecotours Calakmul . He also provides other tours, such as flora and fauna, community, etc. As a guide, he drives along with the customer’s car. If desired, he wears a face mask in the car.

If you are staying in Xpujil, and Louis is not available, you can contact the Tourist Information Center of Xpujil. Through them you can also hire a guide who rides with you, such as guide Ezequiel. He can also be reached directly via tel +52 983 836 6467. Count on about MEX 1800 for a whole day including tip.

Or contact guide Abel. I understand from several other Dutch travelers that he is highly recommended, if you make a clear agreement. Guide Abel can be reached under number +52 983 156 9248 or via his Facebook page . Count on MEX 1,500 p.p. including transport. For day tour tips with a driver from other places, see later in this article.

A summary of our costs of our unforgettable experience at Calakmul (30 December 2021):

• Certified guide MEX 1300 (+ MEX 200 tip)
• Entrance Calakmul MEX bioreserve 150 p.p.
• Entrance Calakmul archaeological site MEX 80 p.p.
• Lunch box Hotel Puerta Calakmul MEX 150 p.p.

So in total, the two of us lost MEX 1,760 on the guide and the entrance fees, which is converted about EUR 75. This does not include tip, the overnight stay at Hotel Puerta Calakmul at USD 195 p/n (room price incl. breakfast), lunch box, petrol, car rental and water. Entrance fees cash! If you want to bring professional film equipment inside, they may ask for an additional MEX 45 (it is on an official sign at the entrance). I had a pretty big camera with me, but nothing was said about it.

My friend was wearing shorts, T-shirt and walking shoes. I wore a dress with sturdy sandals. A woman I met on the stairs said to me “Wow, you look so elegant”. Compliment of the day! Shoes with a not too thin sole and a bit of grip are nice here. I personally wouldn’t recommend simple flip flops, with all those stones on the paths and climbing the temples.

Climbing on the temples is (still) allowed in Calakmul. At many other temples on the Yucatan Peninsula, this is no longer allowed (such as Coba, Chichen Itza, etc.). On this day I walked over 13,000 steps, which is about 9 km (5,6 mi). You can easily walk about six kilometers (3,7 mi) in the archaeological site of Calakmul. To conclude: wear comfortable walking shoes.

Incidentally, I also had leggings with me, which I put on for the path to the crocodile lake. There could still be quite a few mosquitoes, our guide warned. We had rubbed ourselves well in advance with 100% deet (yep, it exists). Once I arrived at the archaeological zone, I quickly took off those tights. There were almost no mosquitoes to be seen now, and the weather was really too hot for long pants. Although our guide wore one.

If you want to visit Calakmul, it is very useful if you have a rental car . On the way from Bacalar to the entrance gate of Calakmul bioreserve you drive on an excellent asphalt highway (186) through green nature, fields and rural villages. This is authentic Mexico!

Distances to Calakmul bioreserve entrance (unless stated otherwise):

• Bacalar – Calakmul bioreserve entrance 176 km (110 mi) approx. 2.5 hours
• Bacalar – Calakmul Archaeological Site 235 km (146 mi) 3.5-4 hours
• Chetumal – Calakmul 175 km (108 mi) 2.5 hours
• Escarcega – Calakmul 97 km (60 mi) 75 min
• Palenque – Calakmul 310 km (193 mi) 4.5 – 5.5 hours
• Campeche – Calakmul 245 km (152 mi) 3.5 hours

Part of the drive between Bacalar and Calakmul we drove through a toll gate (‘Caseta Felipe’, MEX 30 per car one way, cash). Keep in mind that about after Ucum, between the toll gate ( estacion de cobro , which cannot be found on Google Maps) and Xpujil, there is no gas station on the toll road. So leave with a full tank.

Note: you pass a time zone border between Bacalar and Calakmul. It is 1 hour later in Bacalar than in Calakmul.

Personally, I would advise against visiting Calakmul itself as a day trip from Bacalar, Chetumal, Palenque or Campeche, for example. Unless you go with an organized day tour with a driver. These day tours will be small-scale, as coaches cannot drive into the nature reserve. But a day tour from Cancun to Calakmul , I personally find that crazy (8 hours one way).

• Day tour to Calakmul and Balamkú from Campeche
• Day tour with guide/driver to Calakmul from Bacalar or Chetumal

As you can see from the above distances and driving times, it is not a short drive from Bacalar, Palenque, Campeche, etc. to Calakmul. For a visit to the archaeological site alone you quickly need a ‘working day’ (5-9 hours). Add to that 2x the driving distance between that city and Calakmul if you do a day trip. So a long day.

After a day at Calakmul we were exhausted and glad we didn’t have to drive very far. I wouldn’t do much more than an hour. Moreover, you should not want to drive back through the dark on an unlit road. There are quite a few motorbikes and cars without lights here. Unless a professional driver is going to drive, but it will be a very long day that way.

If you don’t sleep in Calakmul, a day tour from Xpujil is the best alternative.

When I think back to our visit to Calakmul and later our visit to Chichen Itza, what a difference! If you ever have to choose between the two, go for Calakmul! Much less touristy, much nicer location, the view… wow!

This map includes places and spots mentioned in this article (and more). This one is ‘smartphone friendly’; you can easily use it via the Google Maps app. Click the icon at the top left to open the menu and see the categories. To adapt the map to your own preferences and interests, (de)select a category. Via Google Drive you can copy the map to your own My Google Maps account.

For a visit to Calakmul I would advise you to allow about 8 hours. That includes 2x 1.5 hours driving to and from the entrance gate of the bioreserve. Don’t start too early or too late so you can drive in daylight. So check the times of sunrise and sunset that day.

A sign states that it is not recommended to drive into the bioreserve after 3:00 PM to visit the Archaeological Zone. That would also be insane, given the time it takes just to drive back and forth to the entrance.

Stay in Calakmul or the surrounding area for at least one, preferably two to four nights. With more than two nights you will have time to see more archaeological sites nearby. And to spot more wild animals in the bioreserve, accompanied by a guide.

On a normal day of the year, at most a few dozen visitors visit Calakmul. Not infrequently you will walk around here (almost) alone. After all, Calakmul is located outside the real tourist areas of the Riviera Maya. And on a remote location that not everybody knows about or wants to make the effort for.

In May, the temperature in Calakmul can rise to above 40°C (104°F), our guide told us. Most rain falls between May and November. When we visit Calakmul at the end of December, it is well above 30°C (86°F). Hot, but doable. Especially since you spend most of your time in the shade of the many trees. And we started early.

During the Christmas holidays (from about December 20 to and including the first week of January), the number of visitors to Calakmul increases to about 400 to 500 per day. Those are mostly Mexicans. The parking lot has space for about 60 cars and vans. Coaches don’t come here because of the low hanging branches and narrow road. Although two arriving vans filled with noisy Mexicans can already feel like a horde in this normally quiet area.

Calakmul sitio arqueología is open daily from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM. When we walked out at 2:30 PM, people were still arriving. Then you will be very late and you will have very little time to take a good look at everything… Anyway, to each his own of course.

We stayed at Hotel Puerta Calakmul , a few minutes drive from the entrance gate of the Biological Reserve. Unfortunately they only had one night available when we booked a week in advance. Thus we slept the night after the day of our visit to Calakmul in a hotel in Escarcega . That was still more than an hour’s drive from Calakmul, but it also saved a lot of money. Every advantage has its disadvantage and vice versa.

In the high season, this hotel easily charges USD 175 to USD 195 for a two-person cottage. This is really expensive by Mexican standards, which is made up for by the location and the restaurant. They want to have paid in advance via PayPal, or else cash on arrival. This property is not listed on any international booking site. They respond quickly by email, preferably in Spanish. You can also immediately arrange the guide for Calakmul.

The hotel has a swimming pool and a restaurant. We had lunch, dinner and breakfast in the restaurant and it was good (not cheap). Everything paid with cash. The cottages have a king-size bed or two double beds with mosquito nets, a bathroom with a good shower and toilet, and a veranda with a bench and hammock. There is a ceiling fan and there are several sockets. Fine for a few nights.

Hotel Puerta Calakmul is the closest accommodation for visiting the Maya City and Calakmul bioreserve. When this hotel is full, or you find it too expensive, you can look in the village near the entrance (see Google Maps).

Otherwise, the most logical option is to book accommodation in Xpujil . A lot of people do that, often because of the price I think. Xpujil is about a 57 km (45 min) drive from the gateway to the Calakmul Biological Reserve. Like Casa Kaan Calakmul (photo below), which has a very good rating and excellent facilities.

We stayed the second night, after our visit to Calakmul, at Global Express Hotel Escarcega . This is because we were going to Palenque the next day, and Xpujil is the other way (more towards Bacalar). The hotel in Escarcega was a simple but reasonably neat and cheap hotel near the main road. A BP gas station and a few local restaurants (plus Burger King for the enthusiast…) are opposite the hotel. Not a dream place but fine for a night ‘in between’.

Finally, a few short tips for your visit to the Maya city of Calakmul:

• Book accommodation as close to the entrance as possible, plus an English-speaking guide.
• Check the times for sunrise and sunset in advance and plan your trip well.
• Please wear comfortable clothes and shoes appropriate to the conditions mentioned.
• Lubricate yourself well in advance with mosquito repellent with the highest possible deet content.
• Make sure you have enough cash, water and food with you for the whole day, there is no ATM or possibility to pay with credit card for instance.
• Don’t leave anything in your car in the parking lot, in short: don’t take too much stuff with you.
• Make sure you have your hands free when climbing the stairs of the temples, a painful slip is made in no time.

In addition to Calakmul, there are at least eight other archaeological sites along the 186 main road that you can visit. After all, it is not called Rutas de la Arqueologia for nothing. Because we were going to visit more archaeological sites elsewhere in the country (Palenque, Uxmal, Chichen Itza) we only visited one other nearby (#2 below) and that was worth it.

But if you are crazy about archaeology, or just want to see more, then you can enjoy a few days with this list. These are all closer to the main road than Calakmul, and closer to Bacalar. See the map in this article. Incidentally, it is better not to leave any luggage in the trunk of your rental car in the parking spaces.

• Chakanbakán

Are you planning to visit the Maya city of Calakmul? I hope you found this article interesting, informative and inspiring. Feel free to leave a comment with questions or additional tips below this article.

You may also find this previously published article about Mexico interesting to read:

• Akumal: Snorkeling with beautiful turtles in the Riviera Maya

Binnenkort zal ik nog veel meer Mexico artikelen op deze website publiceren. Mis deze niet via mijn maandelijkse nieuwsbrief en/of door Flitter Fever reisblog te volgen op o.a. Facebook .

This article contains affiliate links to support this website. It does not cost you anything extra if you buy something after clicking on one of those links. Partner websites that I am affiliated with , reward me with a small commission for making useful connections between buyers and their service or product. This helps to cover the costs for this website. Consider it as a compliment for my work. For more information click  here .

Don’t want to order anything via these links but would like to support me to continue to create new content ? You can always buy me a glass of wine or take a look at my partner page . Thanks in advance & enjoy your next trip!

Last Updated on 08/01/2022 by Elisa Flitter Fever

Elisa Flitter Fever

Hello, I'm Elisa - travel blogger, passionate about beautiful destinations, writing, wine tasting and animals. Sharing info & tips like I do with my best friends. The travel blog that goes the extra mile. 70 countries & counting!

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Visit Calakmul ruins: biggest Mayan ruins in Mexico (+map)

Written by Maartje

One of the highlights of your Mexico trip is a visit to the ancient Mayan imperium Calakmul in the Campeche State. This lost Mayan city was one of the biggest empires back in the ancient Mayan times, making it one of the biggest Mayan sights to visit nowadays. Unlike the famous Chichén Itzá ruins, you can climb the pyramids at Calakmul for a phenomenal view. There’s only one reason this hidden gem isn’t mentioned in all travel guides and blogs: its remote jungle location.

Visit the Calakmul ruins and climb the biggest Maya ruins in Mexico! We wrote a detailed guide on how to get there, where to stay, what to bring and how to visit Calakmul, including a map of the biggest Calakmul pyramids and sights.

How to get to Calakmul in Mexico?

Calakmul is very much off the beaten track and it’s definitely not easy to get here. Tourist crowds flock to the easily accessible Chichén Itzá, but visiting Calakmul requires a lot more effort. But you will be rewarded with an unique jungle city with only few visitors.

Calakmul is located in the state of Campeche, but you can go there either from Campeche or Yucatán. Its location is far from the main road 186: to get to Calakmul, drive for two hours straight into the jungle in the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve. The road leading there, is one straight road leading to nothing else but Calakmul. The start of the road is on the 186, a main road in the south of Yucatán and near the border with Guatemala. This is the exact spot on the map.

It starts as a paved two-lane road. But it keeps getting narrower along the way, until only a bumpy road with deep potholes remains. Along the way you pass a kind of camping area, almost at the start, and a museum, halfway. But there is nothing else here.

Read more : we wrote an extensive blog with tips for a rental car and driving in Mexico .

Visit Calakmul from Xpujil

As it is such a long drive to get to Calakmul, it is best to find a hotel near the start of the road . A day trip from for example Laguna Bacalar is possible, but you have to be willing to spend a serious amount of time on the road. The nearest town is Xpujil, a 120 km drive from Calakmul. There are small supermarkets and a few restaurants and hotels in this small town. We booked a cabin at the very cheap and nice Ecohabitat . You wouldn’t expect looking at Ecohabitat from the main road, but down the dirt road are small cottages for guests.

The history of Calakmul: the largest Mayan ruins in Mexico

Calakmul was once the largest Mayan empire in todays Mexico. The only city that Calakmul could match its size and power is famous Tikal, located in todays Guatemala. The ancient cities actually aren’t very far apart, but there’s only a remote jungle in between them and no road to cross it.

There wasn’t a very friendly bond between Calakmul and Tikal. There was a huge rivalry. Almost all other Mayan cities took sides with either Calakmul or Tikal. So if Tikal attacked an ally, Calakmul was dragged into the conflict and another war started. Mayan history is full of wars and battles between the two rivals. There was never a real winner, as they both defeated each other in bloody battles.

Historians say Calakmul ruled this area for more than 1,000 years. And by this area I don’t just refer to the ruins you can visit nowadays. The city consisted of hundreds of monuments and it covered tens of square kilometers. It was one of the l argest cities in the world . Calakmul is often referred to as the ‘Kingdom of the Snakes’ as Calakmul’s emblem was a snake’s head (Ka’an). You’ll notice this sign throughout the Yucatán Peninsula in the Mayan cities of Calakmul’s allies.

Climb the largest pyramids in Calakmul

It’s no surprise such a big city left us with one of the biggest pyramids in the world. And not just one. Calakmul has many, many pyramids. The biggest one is Estructura II. The base is about 140 meters long and the pyramid measures more than 50 meters . This makes it one of the largest Mayan pyramids and an amazing must-see in Mexico. Like many pyramids, Extructura II has grown this big by expansions over time.

Tip: If you think you have reached the top of Estructura II, walk around the top. On the other side, the pyramid has second top and this one is the highest.

Estructura I is the second largest pyramid of Calakmul. And even this one is extremely high with a size of 40 meters. From the top you can see Estructura II above the jungle treetops. This pyramid is just as gigantic, but it was a lot quieter here during our visit. Every visitor wants to see the biggest of all of course, and many don’t have the energy to climb up another one again. But make sure you do that, as the views from the top are beautiful.

The city complex of Calakmul is gigantic and you can enjoy yourself here for hours and hours. You will see impressive pyramids, old palaces, city walls and many stelas . Stelas are stone pillars with images and inscriptions. They are gold to archaeologists who use them to learn about Mayan history. Some of those stelas are well preserved and still clearly show the images of Calakmul monarchs.

Don’t be scared of the dinosaur sound during your visit. Those are howler monkeys ! These little monkeys make a huge noise. We have read that this sound is said to have been recorded for the Jurassic Park movies and hearing these crazy noises that could very well be true.

Practical tips to visit Calakmul

# 1 There are no real bathroom. Only some sawdust toilets at the entrance, but they are not very clean and a bit smelly.

# 2 You can’t find a hotel close to the Calakmul ruins. After all, it is a 2-hour drive into the jungle. Only one camping spot can be found along that road. In and around Xpujil, a 120 km drive, you will find most hotels. We chose the very cheap and highly recommended cabins of Ecohabitat .

# 3 Along the 186 main road are more Mayan ruins, like at Chicanna. So combine your visit to Calakmul with more sights in the area. Especially the Becan Maya Ruines at Chicanna are impressive. It’s also the location of a highly recommended hotel we heard a lot of other travellers about.

# 4 Go early. It can get super hot in the jungle in the afternoon. And it’s much quieter early in the morning, although it will never get as busy in Calakmul as in Chichén Itzá.

# 5 Then go to the great pyramid first. To have the great pyramid ‘Estructura II’ to yourself, you have to go there immediately at opening time. Even then you have the chance that there are other travelers with the same idea. We were there with only one other couple.

# 6 And then head to the second pyramid. Continue straight to Estructura I. We had this one all to ourselves.

# 7 Educate yourself about Calakmul in advance. Calakmul only really comes to life if you have some background information. Learn about the battles with Guatemala’s great rival Tikal and about the size of Calakmul to really get a sense of the ancient Mayan city.

# 8 Bring food and especially drinks, lots of it. It can get very hot, so bring plenty of water. It is also recommended to bring your own food and snacks. There is nothing to buy in Calakmul itself; at the museum they sell expensive drinks and some food, but it isn’t close to the ruins at all.

# 9 Wear long clothes and use insect repellent. There are so many mosquitoes in the Calakmul jungle. Make sure to wear long but airy clothes to protect yourself. Insect repellent probably won’t help much.

# 10 You pay multiple entrance tickets. For the park, for the nature reserve Calakmul Biosphere Reserve and for the ruins. The prices change often and we coulnd’t found a single travel guide or blog that mentoined the correct prices during our visit. We paid a total of 188 pesos per person: 50 pesos right at the gate at the start of the road, 68 pesos halfway at a second gate, and 70 pesos at the ruins.

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VISITING THE MAYAN RUINS OF CALAKMUL

28 Sep 2023   ||    MEXICO

Hidden deep in the Yucatan jungle, adjacent to the Mexican border with Guatemala, lies the ancient, isolated Mayan city of Calakmul.

This impressive Mayan ruin will reward adventurers with incredible, vast vistas across the surrounding jungle canopy, ancient architecture, and if they are fortunate, the sights and sounds of the famed wildlife that live in this huge biosphere reserve. 

It takes several cautious hours of driving from the nearest town to reach the site, via an overgrown, solitary road that cuts through dense forests. You will have to navigate potholes, fallen branches and various animals on your voyage while hearing only the noises of the jungle inhabitants for company. When you reach your destination, you are presented with some of the most spectacular Mayan ruins in all of Latin America – think Tikal but with far less people.

As Nick just said ‘Calakmul is the Calak—coolest’. I do not approve this joke, FYI.

If you’re up for the adventure, take some time to explore this outstanding archaeological wonder – it really is worth it! Read on for all the information and logistics you’ll need to plan your trip.

IN THIS GUIDE //

The Mayan Ruins of Calakmul

About calakmul.

WHY VISIT THE CALAKMUL RUINS?

HOW TO GET TO CALAKMUL BY BUS OR TAXI

How to REACH CALAKMUL BY CAR

2022 ONWARDS – A DRIVING UPDATE FOR CALAKMUL

COST OF ENTRY TO CALAKMUL

WHERE TO STAY FOR CALAKMUL

WHAT TO BRING FOR YOUR VISIT

ROUTES AND MAPS

FINAL THOUGHTS

The ancient site of Calakmul means ‘Two Adjacent Mounds’ in Yucatek Maya. This city  was a major power between 500-800 A.D., and with over 50,000 inhabitants, was a key site of Mayan commerce.   It is one of the most prominent cities in Mayan history, although less well known today compared with its biggest rival, the city of Tikal, located in the jungles of Petén, Guatemala.   

As long-term competitors, multiple wars broke out between the two competing superpowers. These wars stretched over many decades and throughout centuries, dating from the 500s onwards until Calakmul’s defeat sometime in the 700s. The last date inscribed in Calakmul was around the year 900.

When the ruins were first studied in the 1930s, the area was completely covered, with only large mounds indicating where the larger structures were. The entire site covers an area of over 70 square kilometres, set within an immense biosphere reserve. Over 6500 recorded structures have now been found, although only a small percentage of these have been excavated so far. Among them is one of the largest structures in the Mayan world. This building, named Structure II (the one you always see on Google Images!) stands at over 45 meters high and towers over the jungle canopy below. The site also has 120 carved stone markers (called stelae) and eight ancient roads called Sacbes (or Sacbeob).

Today, Calakmul is located 35 kilometres north of the Guatemalan border in the Campeche region of Mexico and has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. The excavations are ongoing.

CALAKMUL Quick facts

OPENING TIMES – 8am – 5pm every day (remember Campeche is a different time zone to Quintana Roo)

NEAREST TOWN – Xpujil, Campeche

COST – MX$185

BEST SEASON – any, but avoid the rainy season between June and October if possible

AVERAGE DAILY VISITORS – less than 100

TIME NEEDED – about 3-4 hours at the site itself

CLIMBABLE – Yes, even during Covid

AVOID – Visiting on Sundays – it is free for Mexican nationals so is generally busier

A GUIDE TO EDZNA   |    BEST MAYAN RUINS IN THE YUCATAN

WHY VISIT THE CALAKMUL RUINS

Archaeological wonder: in our opinion only Tikal beats Calakmul in terms of impressive ancient Mayan archaeological sites (even then, Tikal has its downsides, like crowds, apart from this one weird time I was there). 

Wildlife:  there were so many occelated turkeys (we love ridiculous birds), plus we saw a tapir, a jaguar (only briefly), frogs and monkeys. We came across hundreds (really, hundreds!) of howler and spider monkeys, with the howlers doing their deafening shouty thing for all to hear.

Adventure: if wildlife isn’t your priority, then there is also the adventurous aspect of these fantastic ruins. The Calakmul site is located deep in the jungle biosphere so we felt like intrepid explorers, meandering around the muddy pathways, discovering moss covered, overgrown structures. Atop the taller ones, I gained a sense of scale and intrigue looking down over the jungle canopy below, aware that a myriad of untouched Mayan remains lie beneath the trees. It is also undoubtedly a great site for more active people – you certainly feel the burn when you climb to the top of the tallest structure in one go!

Quiet: Calakmul has, by far, the highest crowds to impressiveness ratio in the Yucatan Peninsula. Even when the howler monkeys were in full swing, there were barely any people around watching them (despite them announcing their presence extremely loudly). The feeling of being so isolated (especially in contrast to places like Tulum, Chichén Itzá and Palenque) in addition to such a magnificent location, adds so much to the overall experience.

HOW TO GET TO CALAKMUL BY BUS AND TAXI

The nearest town to the Calakmul ruins is Xpujil. It is situated 120 kilometres along the main road that runs from Chetumal into Campeche State and 55 kilometres from the road that turns off towards the site. To reach Xpujil without a car, it is possible to take an ADO bus which runs daily services from Chetumal (often at horribly unsociable hours for some reason!). There are also numerous collectivos that run this route, connecting all the local towns. The other option is an ADO bus from Bacalar which at time of writing has one service a day, again at a horribly late hour.

Public transport to the ruins does not exist – there are no buses or collectivos that go all the way there. It is however possible to hire a taxi or organise a private tour from Xpujil. People we have spoken to told us they paid $50-$60 per person for a tour involving Calakmul and a few additional stops included within that price.

If you just want a taxi to drive you, then the best option is from Xpujil. You are likely to be staying overnight here anyway and all hotels will be able to arrange a driver for the next day. Many Facebook and other social media Mexico backpacking groups have people who are looking to save money by sharing a ride – check them out if you are a solo traveller.

It is also possible to day trip from Chetumal or Bacalar but that is an extremely long day in the car! It also means arriving later in the day which means it will be warmer, busier and possibly rainier. The one small upside to this is it is easier to find travel buddies to share costs (the initial costs will be higher though due to distance travelled). However, I would still personally advise that if you are able to find some travel buddies, stay together in Xpujil for the night.

HOW TO REACH CALAKMUL BY CAR

We chose to hire a car to self-drive this route. It gave us the most freedom to explore and be able to do things at our own pace (we always try to arrive at opening time). It is also the most cost effective choice.

From Xpujil, drive west along the 186 for about 40 minutes before turning off near Conhuas – the turn off is marked as ‘Entronque a Calakmul’ on Google Maps.  Make sure to fill up on gas before the drive in as there are no gas stations within the biosphere itself. After the junction we were directed to a car park and asked to wash our hands (because Covid), before paying for a wristband which covered all parts of the visit to Calakmul. This is a new procedure since the pandemic. Previously there were multiple payments throughout the reserve (a highway toll, the biosphere fee and ruins fee – see costs below).

After obtaining a wristband, continue down the road until a checkpoint where the Calakmul ruins park begins. Here, the rules were explained to us (very quickly in Spanish). Fortunately, there is a massive sign which displays all the information (Don’t speed, watch for animals, don’t litter, etc.).  After the checkpoint there is still another hour to go, so strap yourself in for a long journey!

If you have a driver’s license, I absolutely recommend you hire a car and build Calakmul into an itinerary.

CAR HIRE FOR YOUR CALAKMUL TRIP

We always rent our vehicles all over the world, including our recent trips in Mexico, with Discover Cars . They’re often the most affordable, plus they paid out immediately on an insurance claim we made when our car took some heavy damage in Sicily. We fully recommend them.

If you book through the link below, we make a small profit, at zero cost to you, which helps us write these posts with no advertising! We only endorse products and companies we *actually* use regularly. For more information, read our position on affiliates .

TAKE A LOOK BELOW OR  CHECK CAR RENTAL  

2022 ONWARDS - A DRIVING UPDATE FOR CALAKMUL

Other guides written before 2021 advise that the access road is very rough and full of potholes. This was not our experience, although the road conditions are all a little subjective! It appears that many (not all) parts of the road have been greatly improved and our drive was relatively comfortable compared to our expectations. 

There are still some large potholes and overgrown areas to be aware of, but the journey is much quicker than it used to be. We drove a low clearance rental car and had no concerns. It is worth noting that potholes are much harder to see if there are puddles and it has been raining – go slower than you think you need to.

Since the pandemic, it has become a little simpler to visit the Calakmul ruins as you now only need one ticket. Previously, you paid for entrance to the biosphere, entrance to the ruins and a road toll fee separately.

The cost for entry was MX$125 plus MX$60 paid together for your wristband (a combined total of about £8.64 in 2023) which you show at a second checkpoint. This simplifies the process a lot in my opinion!

Another cost is a guide, if you want one, for around MX$700-800. After you enter the ruins there are options for Spanish speaking and bilingual tour guides. You normally pay a little more for an English-speaking guide. Guides are not essential but can be informative and can help fund local people. If you choose not to get a guide, much of the information on signs are in both Spanish and English.

Parking is free.

CALAKMUL HOTELS

The best place to stay near Calakmul, relatively locally, is Xpujil. This is not a particularly tourist orientated town like other places in the Riviera Maya because there isn’t the demand for it.  Calakmul ruins receives so few visitors a day versus attractions like Chichén Itzá, which averaged 3800 people per day before Covid. As a result, there are far fewer food and accommodation options to choose from. Despite this, there are still budget, middle and upper end options for places to sleep as well as multiple food choices.

I personally quite enjoyed being in this little town. I found it refreshing after the touristy Riviera Maya . It was small enough to wander around on foot and had some lovely friendly ladies who made us vegetarian tacos despite our awful Spanish (near the bus station). There was even pizza! We also had a basic clean, cheap, central hotel to stay in with secure parking ( Hotel Villa Calakmul ). If you are wanting something a little nicer, in 2023 we recommend:

♦ Hotel Cabanas Aldea Maya

♦ Hotel Casa Las Lolas

There are also several places to stay nearer to the main junction for the ruins. We investigated these options, but the prices, facilities and reviews didn’t really sit well with us for various reasons (they may suit you perfectly though!). If you want to check them out, use Google Maps and Booking.com around the Conhuas area.

This is the same basic list as anywhere else you might visit, but with the addition of lots of food and a full gas tank! There are no facilities anywhere nearby apart from bathrooms at the entrance, so stock up before you go.

Cash – bring enough for the entry fee as no cards were accepted during our visit

Packed lunches, snacks and loads of water for the day (plus car snacks. Always need loads of car snacks!)

Sunblock (a lot of the area is in the shade though so don’t worry too much)

Hats (again loads of jungle shade though so not essential – it’s just useful when you climb the structures)

Insect repellent – we visited in November and didn’t need to use our bug stuff. It’s definitely possible that you may need to at other times of the year though.

Light clothing – even early in the morning it was warm

Waterproof shell – we didn’t need it but it makes sense to take one in case of rain

Hiking boots (but trainers with good grip would be fine). It was *very* slippery on the main paths – we were sliding about all over the place! Other paths were very muddy and the pyramids themselves had large uneven steps. Choose your footwear wisely!

Waterproof covering for our bag and camera. We didn’t need it, though it did rain briefly on the drive out of the biosphere.

MAP OF CALAKMUL

Below is the map the park provides as you enter the ruins. It’s not super clear! In simple terms, there are three routes you can take, all marked as you walk around the park by reasonably obviously signs. However, you do not need to follow any of these routes – we didn’t and went the opposite way immediately out of the gate. I don’t think this is such a huge site that you could get lost that easily (I didn’t, yet managed to somehow get lost in Tikal and Yaxchilan!).

The three routes are short, medium and long – even if you are not feeling overly energetic I would recommend you do the longer one. It’s not that much longer as you can see from the routes on the first picture below.

 In terms of time, I think three to four hours would be decent for most people – a bit more or less depending on how fast you walk and how many photos you take.

TOURS TO CALAKMUL

If you’re on a tight schedule or like to reserve things in advance, consider booking an organised tour via Get Your Guide. This website is an excellent way of looking for escorted tours for your holidays that would otherwise be difficult to do independently, or within a restricted timeframe.  

Hopefully this guide is useful and you enjoy your trip as much as we did. Let us know how you get on in the comments below! If you have any other thoughts or updated information about anything we have supplied above, it would be fantastic if you could notify us – we would be very grateful!

We hope the howler monkeys shout at you like they did us!

6 thoughts on “The Mayan Ruins of Calakmul, Campeche – a Guide”

Thanks for this . Could I ask is the drive down there safe or filled with Road blocks . We traveling will a small child and font want wsny issues. Thanks

When we drove in we had no issues with road blocks. There were a few potholes on the road but nothing to worry about. The journey is totally suitable for a child.

Hope you have a great time.

Hello! And thank you for this guide! Curious what month you went in? Thanks!

We visited in November 🙂

Great insights, thanks! Headed there tomorrow!

How did you get on Ian? We land in Chetumal Saturday and plan to hire a car and head there with our toddler and baby!

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Calakmul & Becán: Tips for the Mayan ruins in the middle of the jungle

The feeling of standing alone on the very top of a Mayan pyramid and being surrounded only by jungles, as far as the eye can see – is a feeling unlike any other. The two Mayan sites of Calakmul and Becán in the state of Campeche are relatively untouched by tourism . And what’s more, Calakmul is particularly impressive with its spectacular location in the middle of the rainforest, away from any civilisation.

We visited both ruins and got more than we asked for. Where else do you come across a group of wild monkeys in the middle of your track towards a ruin? In this blog article we will tell you all our tips for visiting the ruins of Calakmul and Becán.

1. Calakmul & Becán: The Mysterious Mayan Ruins – Away from Mass Tourism

2. calakmul: all important information and tips, 3. becán: all important information and tips, 4. accommodation near the mayan ruins.

Once you’ve left Tulum and its ruins behind, you realise how non-touristic the state of Campeche is. In Xpujil , which serves as a base for those looking to explore the neighbouring ruins, you will find just a handful of accommodation options. The feeling of having arrived in the middle of nowhere, hits you quite quickly – we can promise that much.

It is a great way to explore the Mayan sites of Becán and Calakmul. Becán is on the way from Bacalar to Campeche . And even Calakmul is not as complicated to get to (contrary to what we’ve read), although Calakmul clearly has the edge in terms of that jungle feeling . Both ruins can (still) be climbed. The experience is, of course, quite different from Chichén Itzá or the ruins of Tulum, which you can admire only from below.

Who is Becán and Calakmul suitable for?

If you are interested in Mayan ruins , then a visit to Becán and Calakmul is a must. Both are among the most spectacular sites we visited on our Yucatán road trip.

For all those who plan to travel to Campeche (city), we would suggest a stopover in Xpujil (especially since the entire route from Bacalar to Campeche is too far in one go). If you want to explore a little off the beaten track in Yucatan, then you will surely love Becán and especially Calakmul.

If you are traveling with children , we would recommend Becán, as it is much easier to reach than Calakmul.

Of all the Mayan ruins that we visited in Yucatán, Calakmul is by far the most secluded and thus most mysterious. The ruins of Calakmul are far from any civilisation in the middle of the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve . And that means: From Xpujil (which is already rather secluded) you will travel another two hours by car, with the last 60 Kilometres taking you through the deepest jungle.

And when we say the deepest jungle, we really mean it. To give just one example, at one of the turns, our driver abruptly stopped to tell us that he had spotted a Jaguar at exactly that spot three weeks ago. Yes, that’s right – a wild Jaguar crossed the street right in front of his car! It felt so surreal.  

Although the chances of hitting a Jaguar are extremely low, you will almost certainly come across other animals: in the middle of a ruin, for example, a family of wild monkeys crossed our paths. We also saw peacock, turkeys and toucans.

Today, Calakmul is a remote site. But in the time of the Mayas, it was so significant and Calakmul is actually considered as one of the most important and largest Mayan sites – of which we can promise you that its former glory can only be fully appreciated (and imagined) with a visit.

Attractions in Calakmul: Tips to visit

Loop track trail.

The area of ​​Calakmul is very spacious, but you can still visit it on foot . You can choose between the short, medium or long route trail . We chose the medium-distance route, which took us around 3.5 hours (with long photo breaks and climbing the ruins, mind you). The trails are on the whole very well signposted so you don’t have to worry about getting lost. (Nevertheless, it does not hurt to have an offline map on the phone or at least a photo of the map found at the entrance, just in case)

We can highly recommend the medium-long trail (“ruta media”) as we found it was just the right length. This trail brings you to the highlights of Calakmul. (We ended up with an extra stop at Estructura I.)

The Main Ruins of Calakmul

The highlight of Calakmul is the biggest ruin: Estructura II . You should absolutely make sure you climb this pyramid. From below you cannot fathom just how giant this 45m high construction is. But once you’re at the top, you can not help but be speechless. Here you can see nothing but tree-tops and Mayan ruins. No electricity pylons, no houses, nothing. Just breathtaking! From the top you also have a nice view towards the Estructura I. What we also found extremely fascinating: Calakmul is actually just a mere 30 kilometres from the border of Guatemala, so as you gaze into the distance, you are looking at a different country!

Back to Estructura I : You can make a detour to Estructura I from the big ruin (Estructura II). (Strictly speaking, this spot is not actually on the medium “ruta media” trail). However, climbing Estructura I is not quite as spectacular as you do not really see the big ruin from up here, as it is completely overgrown on the back.

However, it is worthwhile to climb Estructura VII . This ruin is located directly opposite the main ruin (Estructura II) and therefore you have a nice view from the the opposing side.

How to get to Calakmul

Option 1 – on your own:   It is possible to travel to Calakmul with your own rental car. There are no public buses. Most people (including us) simply spend the night in or near Xpujil . From there, the journey by car takes about two hours . First, the route runs along the main road. The (signposted) branch to Calakmul comes on the left hand side, just before the place Conhuas.

From the junction , there is a road that branches off leading straight in the direction of Calakmul. The road conditions vary, sometimes good, sometimes terrible – the road conditions tend to get worse the closer you get to Calakmul. Apart from some potholes, it wasn’t as bad as we were expecting. You will drive along this road for about a good hour (60 kilometres) before you reach Calakmul.

Option 2 – with a driver/tour:   If you are not travelling with your own rental car, then you’re going to have to reach into your pockets. Unfortunately, our car was having some troubles and to stay on the safe side, we decided to hire a private driver instead: For a return trip from Xpujil we paid at least 1,500 Pesos (converted is about 70 Euros). The best advantage was that we could relax and sleep a little on the return trip back.

If you want to visit the Mayan ruins of Bacalar or Palenque, then you can book a tour from there to the ruins of Calakmul (and back). Such a tour comes highly recommended and you can actually book yourself a tour via GetYourGuide. The disadvantage, of course, is that you have to skip Becán.

Book here: Tour from Palenque or Bacalcar to Calakmul

Be careful when travelling from Bacalar or Tulum to Xpujil: There is a time zone difference of 1 Hour between the states of Quintana Roo and Campeche. So you actually ‘gain’ an extra hour.

Info at a glance

Admission: A total of around 240 Pesos per person (Divided into three payments along the way: 1st at gate by the junction of the main road, 2nd at the gates into the National park, 3rd entrance fee to the ruins.) Camera fee for video recording: 45 Pesos Opening hours: 8 am to 5 pm daily

A few more tips

• Come early , it’s so worth it! We were there at about 8:45 am, so it was not that hot and there were very, very few people along the way.
• Bring enough water and some food with you from Xpujil – there are no stalls on site!
• Most important: sunscreen and mosquito spray – don’t be frugal with them either!
• We wore long pants and clothes that had good coverage. While this is not necessary, we certainly did not regret it!
• Take a photo of the map right at the entrance. If you lose your way, that photo is your lifesaver. Even an offline app on the phone is a good idea to find your location and bearing again.
• Plan at least 3 hours in Calakmul, as well as an extra 2 hours for the journey from Xpujil.
• A guide is not essential for exploring the Mayan site, but of course the visit will be more informative. If you want to explore Calakmul with a guide, you should make arrangements (eg. through your hotel) beforehand before you come to Xpujil. In our case, there were actually no available English speaking guides left.  

Becán is far easier to reach than Calakmul, but the feeling of seclusion is not as prominent here. This ruin site is located almost directly on the main road, just a few miles outside of Xpujil .

Becán is a bit of an insider tip among the ruins of Yucatán. To be honest, our visit to Becán was quite a coincidence: in the afternoon, after our arrival in Xpujil, we had some time left and so we spontaneously decided to visit the ruins of Becán. Best decision! We really enjoyed it, especially because these gigantic ruins were an unexpected surprise.

Attractions in Becán: Tips for your visit

The main ruins of becán.

The main ruin of Becán ( Estructura IX ) is 32 metres high and is able to be climbed (which we also recommend to you). For extra safety and security, there is a rope which you can hold on to. From the top you have a magnificent view in all directions. Of course you realise that you are not quite as isolated as in Calakmul. Nevertheless, the view is worth seeing. From the Estructura IX, you also get to see the much smaller Estructura VIII.

We would also recommend you to climb this as well. Although the view from the Estructura VIII is generally not that impressive for the majority of the way, it does offers you a great view of the gigantic Estructura IX (ie. the main ruin of Becán.)

How to get to Becán

Becán is located just 8 kilometres outside Xpujil , a few streets away from the main road. The easiest way to reach Becán is by car. There is a car park where you can park for free. If you are not travelling by car in Yucatan, there are taxi drivers in Xpujil who will take you to the ruins.

Between the states of Quintana Roo and Campeche, there is actually a time zone difference of 1 Hour. If you are travelling from Bacalar or Tulum to Xpujil, you will technically gain an extra hour.

Admission: 65 Pesos per person Opening hours: 8 am to 5 pm daily

• We personally found mid afternoon (after 3pm) most ideal for a visit. The lighting and mood slowly became more beautiful than at noon and you can also visit Calakmul and Becán with just one overnight stay in Xpujil.
• As always: bring enough water – there are no stalls here. Maybe even have a small snack on the go. If you go up and down the many stairs, then often a small energy boost is necessary.
• The map at the entrance was very faded during our visit (December 2018). We recommend an offline map on the phone just in case, so you won’t get lost. Personally, we found the signage (red arrows) much worse than in Calakmul.
• For your visit you should allow at least 1.5 hours (but generally longer). The area is not as spacious as Calakmul, but also not small.

In general, the entire region is very, very sparsely populated. There are really no large cities. A popular starting point to explore Calakmul and Becán is Xpujil . This small village with just a few thousand inhabitants, offers a fair handful of accommodation options.

The choices are limited and you shouldn’t expect luxury. However, we can highly recommend the Casa Ka´an .

Our Tip: Casa Ka´an

Casa Ka´an is located outside the center of Xpujil in a very quiet, secluded location. It almost feels like in the middle of the jungle here. The accommodation is very spacious and close to nature and consists of several small bungalows.

The rooms in the bungalows are basic, but comfortable and the staff are incredibly friendly and courteous. But as said before, you shouldn’t expect luxury in this area.

The location is ideal for visiting the ruins of Calakmul and Becán. You can also book a guide / driver directly here. Conclusion: Highly recommended and – especially compared to other accommodations in the area – a great place with great value for money.

Here you can book the hotel: Casa Ka´an

Disclaimer: Affiliate Links

This blog article contains our personal recommendations in the form of so-called affiliate links. If you book or buy something through the links, we will get a small commission. For you, this does not change the price. A million thanks from the both of us!

Have you ever explored the Mayan ruins of Calakmul and/or Becán? How did you like it there? If you have any more tips or experiences you’d like to share, then we would love to hear them in the comments below. Thanks so much!

You might also be interested in this

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4 responses.

Great article! Do you think that Calakmul is much more impressive than Becan? I will have just 3 days in the area of Bacalar and Xpujil and thinking about skipping Calakmul and just visit Becan. But in the other side I doubt about it because everybody talks about Calakmul. As I understood reseraching articles and youtube, that Calakmul is much bigger and you can feel more connection with nature. For example, did you see monkey and other animals at Becan?

Hello Serge, you’re right. Calakmul is more secluded and therefore (in our opinion) more impressive. We didn’t see any monkeys or wild animals at Becan but maybe we just were not lucky. Both ruins are great though! Have a great trip, Kathi & Romeo

I’m planning a trip to Mexico and read your blog and found it super helpful. Just booked our hotel with Casa Maya. Thank you thank you!

Hi Aundrea, you’re very welcome! :) Have a great time & safe travels Kathi & Romeo

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Discover the Calakmul Ruins – Hidden in the Jungle

Updated: November 17, 2022

Mexico , North America

written by: Steph Kloeckener

The Calakmul ruins in Campeche are located 60 km deep in the jungle and the place to go if you want to feel like an explorer. Here's how to get there & what you need to know!

While the Yucatan Peninsula is full of impressive archaeological sites, it is the very remote ruins of Calakmul in Campeche that are the most stunning ones. Located 60 km deep in the lush green jungle, these remote ruins are one of the best places to visit in Mexico if you love nature and history.

You have to venture off the beaten path to get there, which is why they are only explored by 50 to 70 visitors per day. Therefore, visiting these Maya ruins could not be more different from a trip to Chichen Itza, the Tulum ruins, or even Coba.

The Calakmul ruins are located in the middle of the thick jungle, and as you wander among the structures screams of howler monkeys fill the air – look up and with some luck, you will be able to see them. Thanks to these sounds and the lush green all around you, you will have an immersive experience that is unparalleled by any of the commonly visited archaeological sites.

During the excavation of the biggest structures, some trees were left in place if they do not endanger the structures. This further contributes to the feeling of remoteness and explains why some call it a ‘lost city’. Exploring them feels like a real adventure that is well worth the effort of getting there. So do yourself a favor and add these impressive ruins to your list of places to see in Mexico. 

Calakmul has received UNESCO heritage status thanks to its cultural and natural wealth, and once you have been there yourself, you will know why. And do not miss out on climbing the second highest known Mayan pyramid while you are there – you’ll be able to spot Guatemala in the distance.

This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission, at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase through a link. Please see the full disclosure for further information.

At a Glance: Calakmul Ruins

Best Place to Stay: Hotel Xpujil or Hotel Casa Marán

Getting there: rent a car or bus to Xpujil + a guided tour

Local Visitor Center

Table of Contents

About the Ruins of Calakmul

Calakmul is located in the northern Petén Basin region in the southern Mayan lowlands and was as important as Tikal across the border in Guatemala. In fact, the two cities were contemporaries and fought for regional hegemony.

The ruins were named by Cyrus L. Lundell, the first Westerner to see the site in 1931 when he flew over the area. He named the site Calakmul, Mayan for ‘City of Two Adjacent Hills’, based on the two large tree-covered structures that are now known as structure I and structure II. ‘Ca’ is Mayan for two, ‘lak’ means adjacent and ‘mul’ is the word for an artificial hill or pyramid. 

The original name of the city was Ox Te’ Tuun (‘Three Stones’). During the classical period, Calakmul was also referred to as Kaan, the ‘Kingdom of the Snake’. This is due to the fact that the Kaan, a powerful dynasty of the Late Classic Period, had its seat in the city.

During this time, Calakmul’s snake emblem glyph was distributed over a wide area, which indicates that the Kingdom governed areas up to 150 km away. The city’s emblem glyph had a wider distribution than glyphs of any other Maya city.

While the entire area has a size of over 70 km², currently only 2 km² of the archeological site are open to the public. There are over 6000 structures and residential buildings have been found in a 20 km² large area around the site core.

At its peak, the entire kingdom of Calakmul had a land size of 13.000 km² and included 20 secondary cities including La Muñeca, Naachtun, Uxul, Oxpemul, and Sasilha. According to some estimates, 200.000 people lived in the secondary centers and a total of 1.7 million in the entire kingdom. The city of Calakmul itself once had 50.000 citizens.

Remains of dozens of other ancient Maya settlements have been re-discovered in the area. Sacbés (interconnecting roads) are proof of the fact that they had close ties to Calakmul. These roads were part of the city’s extensive trade network and enabled the exchange of ideas with neighboring regions.

Some parts were temporarily closed to the public when I visited Calakmul. These temporary closures alongside some permanent restrictions are due to ongoing excavations or consolidations. After all, large parts of this Maya city are still covered by the jungle which means there are many more mounds that hide ancient structures. Take a moment to imagine what amazing secrets this city is still hiding when you visit it.

History of Calakmul

The early history of Calakmul is not clear, but it is assumed that the city could have inherited its position of power from El Mirador or Nakbe. The city dates back to the Middle Pre-Classic period and was inhabited from 500 BC.

Calakmul formed a regional coalition with Caracol and La Corona. This helped Calakmul become the leading city of one of the two political blocks in the Mayan Lowlands and turned Tikal into a rival for hegemony over the southern lowlands. While similar in size, Calakmul had a greater density than Tikal.

In 556 AD, Tikal attacked Calakmul’s ally Caracol and was subsequently defeated by Calakmul. Given that there were no new monuments with inscriptions in Tikal for 130 years after the defeat, it is known that Calakmul gained the sole regional hegemony.

Between 636 AD and 695 AD, Calakmul had reached a sociopolitical network of incomparable outreach.

In 695 AD, it was defeated in battle by Tikal, and it is assumed that it suffered another loss in battle in 741 AD. These defeats alongside those of its allies lead to the end of Calakmul’s hegemony. Its size diminished after being defeated by Tikal.

The city never recovered from this defeat although it maintained some of its influence. A period of political reorientation occurred as Calakmul focused northwards. It took on the northern traditions of the Rio Bec region to benefit from the region’s prosperity.

The last date recorded in inscriptions is 909 AD (stelae 61). The last known mention of the city outside of Calakmul dates back to 849 AD and was found in El Ceibal (Seibal) in Guatemala. The city was fully abandoned around 1000 AD.

During the Postclassic period, there were ritual activities by occasional pilgrims. Effigy offerings found were dated from 1200 AD to 1450 AD.

The first Westerner saw the ruins in 1931 and the excavation of the ruins began in 1984.

How long did Calakmul last?

Calakmul was inhabited from 500 BC to 1000 AD when the city experienced a dramatic downfall and was almost left completely abandoned. Therefore, it was continuously occupied for 1500 years, which makes it a prime example of the formation and development of cultural groups.

Why was Calakmul abandoned?

Like many other Mayan cities of the southern lowlands, Calakmul started to diminish in size during the time of the Classic Maya collapse. It was abandoned around 1000 AD. The reasons for this widespread collapse of Maya cities are not known, but current theories include a long drought, epidemic diseases, the collapse of the trade routes, and a foreign invasion.

Calakmul Ruins Entry Fee

The Calakmul entry fee is split into three parts and has to be paid in three parts at two separate ticket offices. First, you have to pay the EJIDO & CONAM fees to enter the biosphere reserve, and then you have to pay the INAH (National Institute of Anthropology and History) ruin entry fee.

In total, you have to pay 250 pesos (approximately 12 USD) to visit these remote Calakmul ruins in Campeche. In May 2022, the individual fees of Calakmul were as follows:

– EJIDO ( access local land): 68 pesos

– CONAM (enter protected area): 97 pesos

– INAH (ruin entry fee): 85 pesos

The combined entry fee of this hidden gem in Mexico is more than acceptable when you consider how vast the archeological site of Calakmul is. Even more so, if you compare the fee to that of Chichen Itza or the much smaller Ek Balam .

Opening Hours

While the Calakmul ruins are open Monday to Sunday from 8 AM to 5 PM, the area after the fee wristband checkpoint can only be entered from 6 AM to 2 PM. The last access to the Calakmul archeological site is at 4 PM, but if you want to make the most of your visit, I recommend arriving no later than 1 PM.

If you love taking photos, I recommend planning to be back at the Gran Plaza around 4:30 PM as that is when the golden hour paints the structures in a beautiful light. Just keep an eye on the clock, as you are supposed to have left the archeological site by 5 PM and still have to walk back from the Gran Plaza to the exit.

How much time do you need to visit the ruins?

How much time you need to explore the Calakmul ruins depends on three factors: which route you choose, if you want to climb the pyramids and how many photos you want to take.

Generally speaking, you should plan to spend at least three to four hours at the archeological site, but if you are a passionate photographer that wants to see everything the Calakmul ruins have to offer and take your time to enjoy the view from the top of the ruins, you could easily spend seven hours or more there.

Calakmul Routes

Corto (short) → Gran Plaza, structure I & II, Grupo Noreste, Unidad Residencial Chan Chi ich

Media (medium) → short route, Acrópolis Chiik Nahb & parts of Gran Acropolis (structure X, Plaza Sur, Plaza del Jaguar, Juego del Pelota)

Largo (long) → This route includes all areas that are open to the public. The total distance is 5.6 km.

Best Time to visit the Calakmul Ruins

The Calakmul ruins are worth a visit throughout the year, but the cooler months tend to be more enjoyable. Generally speaking, the weather in the area is classified as warm sub-humid. Between May and September, the weather in the region is very hot, which makes them the least ideal months to visit the ruins.

Timewise, it is best to go early to avoid the heat of the day. Access to the archeological site is limited to a maximum of 100 visitors at a time, so this vast area will never be overrun. Given that this archeological site usually sees between 50 to 70 visitors per day, you do not have to worry that you’ll have to wait for someone to leave before you can enter.

If you want to see the wildlife of the biosphere reserve, you should keep in mind that the animals are most active in the morning and in the evening. Plan your trip to include either morning or evening for the best experience.

How to get to Calakmul

Given the remote location of the Calakmul ruins, getting there is not straightforward and requires some planning. It requires getting to the town of Xpujil in Campeche and then driving another two hours to get to the ruins, which means that it cannot be done as a day trip from Tulum or even Cancun. If you want to explore the Calakmul archeological site, you will have to spend a night in Xpujil.

Having said that, I want to make it clear that a lot of information on how to get to Calakmul is incorrect and based on old information. Some things like a shuttle bus from Xpujil to Calakmul are no longer available, and based on what the local tourism office said, there are currently no plans to reintroduce said shuttle service.

This leaves you with two options once you have made it to Xpujil, and I will provide all the necessary information down below.

Calakmul Day Trip from Bacalar

It is possible to join a day tour from Bacalar to Calakmul, but given the long distances the tour bus will drive each way, I only recommend it if you are incredibly short on time. The area around Calakmul and Xpujil is full of amazing spots, and if you only do a day trip you will undeniably miss out.

Book a Day Trip from Bacalar to Calakmul

Public Transport to Xpujil + Guided Tour to Calakmul

Getting to xpujil.

There is a direct bus from Tulum to Xpujil that departs late on Monday and arrives on Tuesday at 2:40 AM. This bus ride takes 5:45 hours, but it is not ideal as it only runs once a week. Therefore, the best option is to catch a bus to Chetumal and then from Chetumal to Xpujil.

There are frequent connections from Cancun, Tulum , Playa del Carmen and Bacalar to Chetumal. Once there, you then have to catch the bus from Chetumal to Xpujil. This route is served by both ADO and AU buses and takes around 1:45 h. However, you should know that the connection is not run every single that, and that there is no obvious rule concerning which days the route is served. Therefore, you should look up the Chetumal to Xpujil bus schedule ahead of time. I recommend booking a ticket in advance.

Getting from Xpujil to the ruins

If you are traveling by public transport, your best option is to join a guided tour from Xpujil to Calakmul. These tours usually cost between 1.600 and 1.700 pesos per person, which a minimum of two participants.

Joining a tour will allow you to explore the Calakmul ruins with a naturalist or archeological guide. It is best to do so in advance if you do not speak Spanish. Reach out to the visitor center via email at [email protected] .

Alternatively, you could technically also take a taxi, but given that the driver would have to wait hours while you explore the ruins, this option is expensive. There is no fixed price, so you have to negotiate and hope to get a good price.

How to get to Calakmul with a Rental Car

If you have a driver’s license and do not mind driving in Mexico , it is best to rent a car in Cancun, Tulum, or Playa del Carmen and drive to the ruins of Calakmul. Hereby, you will find the best rental car prices in Playa del Carmen. Due to the road conditions on route to Calakmul, it is best not to get a small and low car.

Book your rental car here!

While you could technically also rent a car in Xpujil, doing so is not advised unless you rent the car ahead of time. There are few rental cars are available, and quite often none of them are available for spontaneous day rentals, so you have to reserve a car in advance. The price for a one-day rental in Xpujil is around 1500 pesos (approx. 73 USD).

The driving time from Playa del Carmen to Xpujil is around 4:30 hours (398 km), and the driving time from Campeche City is 3:45 hours (299 km). If you arrive early enough, you can use the remainder of the day to explore one of the other archeological sites in the area. I personally recommend visiting Becan , which is located 8 km outside of the town.

If you are driving to Calakmul from the east, it is best to stop in Xpujil, which is 116 km (72 miles) and 2 hours away from the ruins. The driving time to Xpujil is as follows:

– Cancun: 464 km (288 miles); 5:45 h [total: 580 km (360 miles); 7:45 h]

– Tulum: 334 km (208 miles); 4:15 h [total: 450 km (280 miles); 6:15 h]

– Bacalar: 120 km (75 miles); 1:35 h [total: 236 km (147 miles); 3:35 h]

If you are planning to drive to the Calakmul ruins from Campeche City, the best place to stop is Escárcega. The total distance to the archeological site is:

– Campeche City: 303 km (188 miles); 5 h

– Escárcega: 156 km (97 miles); 3 h

Driving from Xpujil to Calakmul

Spend the night in Xpujil at one of the hotels listed below, and then make your way towards the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve . Plan to arrive just as it opens to maximize the time you have to explore the area and the archeological site. If you use Google Maps as a navigation tool, you should ensure that you do not select the Calakmul tag west of El Refugio . The ruins are south of La Selva and this is the correct location .

Do not forget to fill up your rental car’s tank before you drive to Calakmul!

The distance is 56 km (34.8 miles) and it takes 37 minutes to drive from Xpujil to Entronque de Calakmul. To get to the entry of the biosphere reserve in which the ruins are located, you have to follow road 186, which connects Chetumal and Villahermosa.

I personally call it the “butterfly tunnel of death” as we hit 21 butterflies on way there. Beautiful blue birds tend to sweep down to the street to pick up the butterflies that have been hit by cars

The road between the entrance gate and the museum is 20 km long and has a speed limit of 60 km/h. They will check your bracelets at a checkpoint at the museum and take note of your license plate.

The following 40 km have a speed limit of 30 km/h and it is best to abide by it as there is a lot of wildlife. As you drive slowly, you can spot animals including ocellated turkeys, and if you are really lucky maybe even a jaguar. We saw seven ocellated turkeys on way there and just under twenty on the way back.

There will likely be some bigger trees on the road as well as holes. The last 8 km of road to Calakmul are the worst and the reason why a higher car is best as there are a lot of holes of varying sizes.

Free parking is available on site. There are plenty of trees around the parking area, so you do not have to worry about your car heating up while you explore the archeological site.

Calakmul Biosphere Reserve

The Calakmul Biosphere Reserve was established in 1989, although it initially was a Natural Protected Area. It covers 15% of the state of Campeche and has the highest diversity of mammals in the Mayan region. Research has shown that the Maya water reserves had a lasting impact on the local flora and fauna.

1600 different plants have been found inside the area, and 282 bird species, including several tucan species and parakeets, call the biosphere reserve their home.

Two of Mexico’s three primate species live in the biosphere reserve, alongside two of the four edentates. Additionally, five of six wildcat species can be found in the area. Other animals living in the area include tapirs, armadillos, and mule deer. There are also around 50 reptile species and more than 400 butterfly species.

This abundance of wildlife was also reflected by the ancient Maya in the form of paintings, sculptures, and pottery.

Jaguars in Calakmul

While some guides like to say that ‘they just saw one last week’, it is actually a very rare occurrence and you have to be extremely lucky to see one of the 500 jaguars in the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve. One guide has not seen one in 12 years of frequently visiting the archeological site. Given those numbers, I had no real expectations of seeing a jaguar while visiting Calakmul.

While driving away from the ruins, I joked that a jaguar should show up on the road right in front of us. And I clearly remember my friend’s sarcastic “do you want it to do a backflip too”. And then, just like that, it happened.

We saw a jaguar on the road less than 100 meters ahead of us. And while it did not do a backflip, it stayed on the road for more than half a minute before jumping up 2 meters at the side of the road.

It was an incredible experience and I still cannot believe my good luck!

Want to see my jaguar encounter video? Watch it here .

I stopped the car and grabbed my phone to snap some photos and record the jaguar encounter. And let me tell you that said video and photos were necessary as no one we talked to could believe we had actually been that lucky before seeing the videos.

While it is highly unlikely that you will be fortunate enough to see a jaguar, my experience is proof of the fact that it is not impossible. Abide the speed limit as you drive down the road in the biosphere reserve and keep your eyes open to spot the diverse wildlife in the area. After all, you never know what you will see.

Having said that: given that jaguars are nocturnal animals, the chances to see one do increase later in the evening. Therefore, you have the greatest chance to see one if you leave the ruins just as they close at 5 PM and then drive down the biosphere reserve road as the sun sets.

Facilities at the Archeological Site

The only bathroom and toilets are located near the ticket booth. There are no vendors that try to push you to buy something, in fact, there are no shops for around 60 km.

There is an area with information boards near the entrance, but currently, all signs are only in Spanish. I tried to compile all the important facts in this location guide, so you won’t miss out if you are not fluent in Spanish. All other information panels at the Calakmul ruins are in English, Mayan, and Spanish.

Calakmul Museum of Nature and Archeology

The Museo de Naturaleza y Arqueologá is on route to the Calakmul ruins and houses some artifacts of the archeological site alongside some reconstructions. It is open from 8 AM to 3 PM and is a great place to visit if you want to learn more about the geological, archeological, and natural history of the ruins and the wider area.

Highlights of the Calakmul Archeological Site

The city of Calakmul was built on a limestone area that was flattened by the Maya. Over the course of 1500 years, the Maya built monumental temples that were erected to sustain a permanent relationship and dialogue with the Gods through ceremonies and public administration buildings where ceremonies and trade were organized. Many of the pyramids got bigger as they were extended and built upon. Structures I, II, and VII are the highest structures.

Many of the bigger structures also incorporate the tombs of kings and other nobles. Said tombs also contained body ornaments and accompanying objects such as jade masks, ear spools, polychrome pottery, and necklaces made of jadeite or marine snails. The most famous jade mask of Calakmul can now be observed in a museum in Campeche City.

Calakmul also has defense systems, stucco friezes, and mural paintings, as well as eight sacbe that connected Calakmul to Mayan cities like El Mirador and El Tintal. Surprisingly, the was little structural construction in the center during Calakmul’s time of greatest prosperity. However, many stelae at the Gran Plaza date back to this period.

As a result of its history, the archeological site shows cultural influences from the north and south. The monumental buildings in the core area were built in the Petén-style, which mirrors the growth of social complexity during the pre-classic and early classic periods.

Elements of the Rio Bec-style can be found in the northeastern area. These additions are a late Classic development and stand in relation to the Kaan dynasty’s relocation from Dzibanché to Calakmul.

I recommend taking a photo of the map as the paths are not always clear. There are no paper maps, so a photo is the only option. It is also a good idea to download a local offline map in Google Maps, so you can cross-reference the two.

The Gran Plaza is a 250×150 meters large area that is surrounded by structures II, IV, V, VI, and VII. Structure V and some stairs divide the Gran Plaza of Calakmul into two sections. It is oriented towards structure II and was a place of ceremonial and political events. 

It is the area with the signs of the earliest occupation around 400 BC. The structures were built upon even after the city had been defeated by Tikal as seen in the Rio Bec-style upper building of structure V. The structures are houses and tombs, and some of the best-preserved stelae. Said stelae tell the history of the events between 623 and 672 AD and can be found in front of structure V. Be sure to climb structure VII for a great view of structure II.

Structure II

Structure II is 45 meters high and aside from a great view of the lush jungle, it also grants that who climb it an impressive view of structures I and VII. Until recently, structure II was considered the largest Mayan pyramid, but in fact, it is only the second tallest known Mayan pyramid after the Toniná Pyramid in Chiapas.

It is located south of the Gran Plaza and its base is 140 meters long. The highest part you can see while standing at its base is not the highest point. To reach it, you have to climb the pyramid until you reach the last segments of steps, and then walk to the left. From there, you will see the highest area that was once topped by a temple.

Between the 5th century BC and the 8th century AC, the structure was built upon 7 times. While not accessible to the public, this structure is the location of a 20x4m large stucco frieze. It was found on an old pyramid inside the structure and depicts a mix of a human and an animal. As of now, nine tombs have been found, including that of the great ruler Yuknoom Yich’aak K’ahk (‘Jaguar Paw Smoke’). His grave has been recreated in the Museum of San Miguel in Campeche City.

Structure III

Structure III is located near the Gran Plaza and you walk past it on the way to structure I. It consists of twelve rooms atop a raised platform and is considered to be the residential structure of one family. 

The structure dates back to the 5th century AD and contains the tomb of a male ruler. When excavated, the tomb was full of offerings including three jade mosaic masks that were positioned over the ruler’s body.

Structure I

Calakmul’s structure I was built on an 8 meters high hill, which makes it appear higher than structure II. However, it is 5 meters smaller with a height of 40 meters. Climb to the top and enjoy the view over the trees.

The pyramid as you see it today was built in the second half of the 8th century AD, but its substructure dates back to 150 BC to 150 AD. The stela at the base was erected by ruler Yuknoom Took’ K’awill in 731 AD. Today, the surface of some of the stelae is smooth, as parts have been stolen.

Further Areas of the Calakmul Ruins

As of now, 120 stelae have been discovered at the archeological site, but not all of them are still on location. However, some of the stelae still show images of Calakmul’s monarchs.

Stela 51 is inscribed with the year 731 and shows Yuknoom Took’ K’awaial, while stela 54 shows his wife. Both of these stelae are now located in two museums in Mexico and the USA.

After all, extensive murals cover three tiers and the sides of the stairs. These exterior murals are very rare for Mayan structures, and similarly, extensive murals can only be found in other locations: Bonampak in the state of Chiapas and in San Bartolo in Guatemala.

Chiik Nahb Acrópolis, also known as ‘Place of the Water Lily’, is a 2.5 ha area north of the Gran Plaza. While 68 buildings have been identified inside the acropolis, it is pyramid structure 1 that is the most interesting. It is an accretion of seven superimposed remodelings, with the last being incomplete, but it is the 3rd remodeling that gave it caused it to be known as the ‘painted pyramid’.

The murals depict scenes of citizens of Calakmul giving, receiving, and consuming a variety of foods alongside murals that display the transport of goods. The accompanying hieroglyphs describe who the participants are, which was crucial to our understanding of the local Mayan social mechanisms of goods circulation.

They were painted in two phases with six colors being used during the first phase, and sixteen colors and two hues being used during the second phase. And while the murals were covered during the fourth remodeling, there are signs that indicate that this was intentionally done in a way to preserve the murals.

The interior and the murals is not open to the public, but reproductions can be found in Calakmul’s Museo de Naturaleza y Arqueología.

The Gran Acrópolis is a residential area with a labyrinth-like structure. There are some ceremonial areas including a Juego de Pelota, temples, and some tombs of high-ranking elites. Structure XIII is the tallest structure of the Gran Acrópolis. The area is not fully excavated and one carving of seven kneeling prisoners has even been reburied to preserve it.

Calakmul has extensive quarries, water management systems, and agricultural terraces as the ancient city used to depend on the surrounding ecosystem. To ensure the sustainable use of the area’s natural resources, the Maya added to the natural ecosystem by constructing water reservoirs and through forestry activities.

While Calakmul is located above a seasonal swamp, which served as the city’s water source during the rain season, five big water reservoirs with a size of up to 242×212 meters were built to ensure stable access to water. Therefore, the city was linked to a water control system with both natural and artificial features.

If you want to explore the ruins of Calakmul, you have to follow these rules that are in place to ensure the conservation of the structures and the environment.

• Do not litter.
• Under no circumstances destroy the ruins by etching your name or anything else into them.
• Do not climb onto the roofs of structures as this might cause them to collapse.
• Do not sit on fragile structures.
• Do not take anything with you when you leave.
• Do not try to enter the internal areas of the pyramids.
• Do not bring your pets.
• Do not ride a bike on-site.

Is it allowed to climb the pyramids of Calakmul?

It is allowed to climb many of the pyramids of Calakmul. Just know, that there are no ropes that help you climb up and down and that the steps are rather uneven. Therefore, stable footwear is highly recommended. Do not climb them, if you have a fear of heights or if you often get dizzy. Even the best view is not worth the risk of falling down – especially when falling has an elevated risk of a lethal injury.

Where to stay near Calakmul

If you want to explore the remote ruins of Calakmul, it is best to book your accommodation in Xpujil, as it is the nearest town. While you could only spend one night in town, I personally recommend booking two nights. This way, you can have an early start on the day of your visit and can maximize your time at the ruins without having to worry about driving in the dark to the location of your next accommodation.

While in town, I decided to stay in two different hotels, and I can recommend both of them. While Hotel Casa Marán looks more luxurious, it is located on the main street. Meanwhile, Hotel Xpujil is on a side street and has a pool, but has a more rustic style.

Hotel Casa Marán

Read the reviews here .

Book your stay here.

Hotel Xpujil

Read the reviews.

Book your stay now.

If you are feeling adventurous and book in advance, you can also camp at Campamento Yaax Che en Calakmul . Tents and proper mattresses are provided.

What to bring when visiting Calakmul

Snacks & water – While they do sell a limited selection of snacks at the entrance of the biosphere reserve, it is best to buy everything you need in Xpujil. It is not possible to buy any water or snacks once you have entered the biosphere reserve, so bring a sufficient amount. I recommend leaving an additional liter of water per person in the car while you explore the Calakmul ruins.

Money for the entry fee – There are no ATMs at the archeological site, so ensure you have enough cash on you before you start driving there. There are no banks in Xpujil, only two ATMs. If you are looking for a bank, you’d have to drive all the way to Chetumal or Escáega.

Camera – Be sure to bring your camera. After all, Calakmul is one of the most spectacular places in Mexico, so you’ll want the chance to take photos.

Cap – Wear a hat or a cap to avoid sunstroke.

Insect repellent – Bringing some is especially important if you are visiting the site during the summer months.

Sunscreen – Biodegradable sunscreen is a must if you want to avoid getting sunburned while climbing the pyramids.

What is Calakmul known for?

The ruins of Calakmul are known for their remote location as well as archeological findings that have contributed to our understanding of the Mayan society. Thanks to the hieroglyphic on the stelae and walls, scholars were able to understand more about the ancient Maya culture, its organization, and its political history.

Is Calakmul worth visiting?

The ruins of Calakmul are an impressive sight and are also surrounded by a lush jungle full of endangered animals. This combination makes a visit to Calakmul more than worthwhile for everyone that loves ruins, history, nature, and those with an interest in exploring remote locations.

What jungle is Calakmul in?

Calakmul is located inside the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve and is part of the area that has the second largest biodiversity in Mesoamerica.

Why is Calakmul a UNESCO World Heritage Site?

The Ancient Maya City and the Protected Tropical Forests of Calakmul were inscribed on the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2002 for numerous reasons.

For one, the city held an important rule in the region for over twelve centuries, and it has well-preserved structures, that allow visitors a glimpse of life in an ancient Maya capital. It is also located in the Mesoamerican biodiversity hotspot, the third largest one in the world.

The pyramids and structures are a masterpiece of human creative genius and are an outstanding example of a very specific type of architecture. Thanks to the stelae and friezes, Calakmul is considered a unique and exceptional testimony of cultural traditions and exhibits an important interchange of human values.

Meanwhile, the surrounding biosphere reserve is an outstanding example of ongoing ecological and biological processes in the evolution of ecosystems and communities of flora and fauna. It contains the most important and significant natural habitats for the in-site conservation of regional biological diversity.

Nearby Places to visit

If you want to see more Maya ruins , you are in the ideal area, as it is part of the Archeological Route. Consider visiting some of the other nearby ruins before or after you explore Calakmul so you can compare the sites to each other and see how they differ.

Becán Ruins — These ruins are only 8 km away from the hotels and more than worth a visit. After all, Becan used to be the political, economical, and religious center of the Rio Bec region. Additionally, it has a unique feature as the main area of the settlement is surrounded by a wide moat. This makes it a unique site you should not miss while exploring the area.

Volcan de Los Murcielagos (‘Volcano of the Bats’) → Just before sunset, 2 million bats of different species emerge from a cave in what looks like an erupting volcano. The entire spectacle last around 90 minutes.

Xpujil Ruins — If you do not want a long drive and see more local ruins, you can also visit the ruins in the western area of the town of Xpujil. The towers of the Xpujil archeological site are rather interesting and well worth a visit.

Hormiguero Ruins — While the road to these ruins is rather bumpy, there is no entry fee. The Hormiguero ruins are the place to visit if you want to see a very detailed depiction of the Earth Monster.

Planning a trip?

Check out these useful websites and resources I use to plan my own adventures.

Roundup: Ruins of Calakmul

I personally consider visiting the Calakmul ruins a must if you are interested in Maya history and love nature. While a trip to the area is certainly a detour away from common tourist spots, it offers plenty of worthwhile sights aside from Calakmul.

While I only spend two days and two nights in the area, I ultimately would have preferred to have at least a week. After all, a week is the minimum amount of time you need to see most ruins and locations of cultural and natural significance.

Based on that, I am definitely planning another trip to Calakmul and the wider area. Until then, I can only encourage every single one of you to include Calakmul in your Yucatan itinerary and to spend more time in the area than I did.

More about Mexico

If you are planning a trip to Mexico , you might also be interested in these guides:

Yucatán Peninsula Itinerary Mexico’s Pueblos Magicos

Which Maya Ruins in Mexico do you want to explore first?

Let me know in the comments down below!

Planning to visit the Calakmul Ruins? Pin This guide to plan your trip to Calakmul!

I am the founder of A Nomad's Passport and a solo traveling digital nomad, photographer, and writer. Originally from Germany, I have lived in several countries including Australia & Mexico.

As an outdoor lover and culture enthusiast, I love writing about all forms of adventure travel ranging from outdoor activities like scuba diving and hiking to cultural experiences, alongside road trips and itineraries that combine these elements.

A Nomad's Passport is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com.

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2 thoughts on “Discover the Calakmul Ruins – Hidden in the Jungle”

Wow! I cannot believe you saw a jaguar and in such plain sight! That’s awesome.

It sure was an amazing experience. Did not think it would actually happen while joking about seeing one.

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Calakmul Trip Planner

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Heartland of the Maya

Calakmul, Mexico’s only mixed UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a both a protected Biosphere Reserve and an important archeological ruin, the largest uncovered to date in the Maya Lowlands.  Known as the seat of the Snake Kingdom and primary rival of Tikal, Calakmul is now believed to have been one of four regional centers of power during the Classic period.

Located deep within the jungle near the Guatemalan border, though only a 5-hour drive from our base in Xcalak*, Calakmul is too far from any large tourist centers to attract crowds.

These extensive, well-preserved ruins extend across a 70-kilometer site marked by three large pyramids and numerous carved stone stelae, more than any other known Maya site.  

Although the trails inside the park are marked and well-kept, and there is a restroom at the entrance, very few people venture out here—certainly not in tour buses.

It’s not uncommon for travelers to wander through the ruins all morning without meeting anyone else. The absence of crowds gives Calakmul another advantage: The surrounding rainforest is also protected and untamed. Wild boar and Yucatán turkeys forage in the underbrush along the entrance road.

Between the pyramids, the jungle canopy is alive with tropical butterflies and birds—including keel-billed toucans, lineated woodpeckers and Yucatán parrots, to name a few—and home to monkeys, jaguars and pumas.

Depending on your interests, a Calakmul trip could include Valladolid, Izamal and/or Coba, and it may be added on as a pre- or post-diving extension in Xcalak National Marine Park / Banco Chinchorro.

*Due to its remote location, this extension is only available from our base in Xcalak.

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Calakmul Tours By Ezequiel

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