cruise control not working ford edge

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Adaptive Cruise Control issue: Sensor Blocked

• adaptive cruise control
• sensor blocked

By Fords Is Funner March 25, 2015 in Edge Forum

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Fords is funner.

Just bought a 2012 Edge Limited with 29K miles on it. The vehicle is in very good condition, bought from a reputable used car dealer, and everything seems to be working properly except for the adaptive cruise control (ACC). After driving anywhere from 5 to 15 miles using the ACC a message pops up saying the collision control is unavailable because the sensor is blocked and the ACC disengages. When I try to restart the ACC another message pops up saying the Adaptive Cruise Control in Unavailable - Senor Blocked. Unfortunately during my brief test drive of this Edge I only tried the ACC for about 2-3 miles and it worked great during that time.

When it's working the ACC works great. It just doesn't stay on for very long before we get the "sensor blocked" message. Driving conditions are sunny and dry. The plastic panel (and entire grill) in front of the radar unit that says Radar ACC is clean. I looked at the front of the radar unit as best as I could through the grill and did not see any mud or debris on it.

Driving several miles or more after getting the error message apparently clears it and ACC can be used again. I've never had a vehicle with this feature until now. I didn't find any recalls or TSB's online for the Ford Edge ACC system. Is this behavior normal and it's just a finicky system that can't be relied on or does it sound like the ACC in my vehicle is malfunctioning? I've found some comments online from owners mentioning that the ACC in their Ford Edges also turns off at times but no one seemed all that concerned about it, as if it's just the way it is. Is this the case? Does the collision sensor get easily fooled and shut itself off?

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It usually only happens in really wet weather. Sounds like a bad sensor or connection. Are you still under the 36 month factory warranty? If so it will be covered. That depends on when the original owner bought it. The dealer can check it.

Hi akirby. The 36 month warranty expired on 2/21/2015, so the Ford dealer wants $90 minimum (their hourly shop rate) to diagnose it. For now I've changed the cruise setting to "normal" to turn off ACC.

bummer. You might be able to replace the sensor yourself but without a real diagnosis you might be throwing money away. Might be worth the $90 in this case.

Yes, I don't want to start replacing parts unless I know for sure a part is bad and actually needs replacing. Maybe someday I'll have a dealer diagnose it. It's a shame that a feature Ford highlights as a selling point in their website ads, complete with videos and diagrams showing how wonderfully it works, is already basically useless on this low mileage Edge.

Yeah - so terrible that this happened once or twice out of a million vehicles.

The radar sensor has probably disconnected from its retaining taps. It has studs and clips. The sensor clips onto the studs. See if you can move the sensor by hand through the lower grille. If you can, simply snap the sensor retainers back on the studs. You can sometimes get a long screw driver to do this without pulling front bumper cover. If not, unbolt bumper cover to gain access.

bought from a reputable used car dealer,  

Yet the dealer won't correct an issue that was obviously present when the vehicle was sold? Most will offer some sort of short warranty on the cars they sell.

As stated, Ford knows there are conditions that will cause that warning.

2011MY Owner Guide 4th Printing:   “Blocked sensor If a message regarding a blocked sensor is displayed, the radar signals from the sensor, located behind a fascia cover near the driver side of the lower grille, have been obstructed. When the radar signals are obstructed, a vehicle ahead cannot be detected and the collision warning system will not function. The following table lists possible causes and actions for this message being displayed…   Cause: Heavy rain, spray, snow, or fog is interfering with the radar signals   Action: The collision warning system is temporarily disabled. Collision warning should automatically reactivate a short time after the weather conditions improve.”   Grab a free digital copy of the Owner Guide here:   http://Owner.Ford.com/servlet/Conten...OwnerGuidePage

As it happens in clear weather, could road salt have blocked the sensor? Terminals might be corroded. Is it possible to pull the connectors apart, clean them and use dielectric grease when reassembling?

  Most will offer some sort of short warranty on the cars they sell.  

And this one does, 90 days and 3,000 miles included with every purchase. However, it is not a bumper-to-bumper warranty as it would be very unusual for that kind of warranty to be offered at no charge on a used car by any dealer. The included warranty covers only major components like engine, transmission, etc.

  As it happens in clear weather, could road salt have blocked the sensor?

As I mentioned, I was able to see the front of the sensor by looking through the grill at an angle and it is clean. The city here does not spread salt on the roads when the weather is clear. Also, the car came from Orange County, California. I live near Salt Lake City (yes I know, ironically the place where I live has the word "salt" in it) and the winter has been unusually mild this year. This time the East got most all of our snow.

  Is it possible to pull the connectors apart, clean them and use dielectric grease when reassembling?

I will try doing this to see if it helps, thanks for the tip.

Really, that many times? Since that is the case I will lower my expectations.

  Really, that many times? Since that is the case I will lower my expectations.

The point is this is the first time I've seen this issue (sensor failure in dry weather) reported here or on the other ford model specific websites, and it's been offered for a couple of years now on various models. So it's not a very common occurrence at all. Even the best quality electronic components aren't 100% perfect.

• 7 months later...

mrshamilton1b

I have a 2013 Edge and a few months ago I started getting the Sensor Blocked error message every time I am driving behind a large vehicle. I have taken it in three times to a dealership and they STILL have not fixed it. They cleaned the sensor, and they replaced broken clips holding the sensor. Still not fixed. Any ideas? I lived in California so weather is not the issue.

• 3 months later...

TO: FordTech1 and AKirby

Just bought a very low mileage used 2013 Edge Limited. During test drive the "acc not available" and "sensor blocked" went off in dry road conditions. Salesman said that there was probably "a bug on the sensor." On delivery I asked if the sensor had been cleaned off and was told the entire car had been detailed for me prior to pickup. Two days after delivery the same ACC and Sensor dash messages appeared. I found this forum and the discussion about the sensor blocked issues. Question: Is the ACC Sensor issue one that has been addressed in a Ford TSP?

Thanks, guys.

Not sure but that sounds likely.

ACC is very rare on the Edge because dealers didn't stock it and it was a pricey standalone $2K option. As the cars age, it does look like the sensors are failing quite early so it's safe to assume there is a design flaw that will effect many others. Might be one of the reasons ACC was delayed a year on the new Edge.

Thanks, Borg,

To be clear, I am speaking of the collision avoidance sensor being "blocked and Not Available." Not enough experience yet with Automatic Cruise Control functionality.

Thanks, Borg, To be clear, I am speaking of the collision avoidance sensor being "blocked and Not Available." Not enough experience yet with Automatic Cruise Control functionality.

Pretty sure it's the same sensor.

Yes it is the same sensor.

ACC is very rare on the Edge because dealers didn't stock it and it was a pricey standalone $2K option. As the cars age, it does look like the sensors are failing quite early so it's safe to assume there is a design flaw that will effect many others. Might be one of the reasons ACC was delayed a year on the new Edge.   I did have ACC on my 2011 and 2013 MKXs without incident, the only time the sensor threw up an error was in snow storms or heavy road spray, it still worked in dense fog. Another reason I'm glad I lease

That's what I mean, if the clips are failing than so is the sensor. That's a design defect. That's like say, the door didn't fail, it just fell off the car.

Depends on whether it just needs to be put back into place or if it has to be replaced.

Thanks BORG and AKirby! I will take these comments with me to my dealer.

Rockwall, TX

• 1 month later...

I just saw this subject and thought I'd add my experience on ACC for a 2011 Taurus. The early ACC was musch quicker to cut out in wet weather than my '13 Explorer, and the Taurus eventually began giving the error mentioned above in clear dry conditions. Dealer cleaned, reconnected and worked on it 3 times with no luck. It was finally replaced under extended warranty and the new part is much more reliable than the original, so it has obviously been impoved. Glad I had the warranty as it would have been a $1,200 bill otherwise. I think the tech was finally able to find a TSB on this problem, put no code was ever put out. I had to take pictures of the problem displayed on the message center since the control reset each time the engine was restarted.

• 5 years later...

I got this error message on our 2019 Ford Edge while we were on a recent trip. Initially the error was sporadic, but became more persistent over time.

On the 2019 and later models, the sensor is located just below the license plate bracket. It appears someone either backed into the vehicle while it was parked, or nosed into it in a parking lot. I could see some minor abrasion on the license bracket and the bottom of the plate was bent. But otherwise the front-end of the Edge looked great.

However, I could feel something loose behind the grill area and one of the 'shutters' was displaced from its location. I took it to the dealer and they removed the front fascia. The sensor is held in place by a bracket that is part of the shutter assembly and had broken away. So the sensor was loose and not properly aligned, resulting in the error message. This ended up somewhat costly. I could submit an insurance claim, but the damage repair cost was only slightly more than my insurance deductible.

It might have been possible to glue the assembly together using two-part epoxy, but the sensor body hangs from the top and the piece holding the two bolts and centering pins broke off. It might have eventually failed, so I chose to go with replacement.

See picture for what this looks like once the front bumper assembly is removed. 

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• 2013 Edge & MKX

Adaptive Cruise Malfunction

By danwdc September 27, 2023 in 2013 Edge & MKX

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I bought a 2013 Ford Edge Limited AWD last June with a warning the reads "Collision Warning Not Available." When I try to turn on the cruise control, I get a warning that says "Adaptive Cruise Not Available." Both show up on the screen to left of the steering wheel. I replaced the cruise control distance sensor with a Dorman 601-726, leveled it, and set it with a drive with Forscan. Forscan said the calibration was successful. But no change with the 2 alarms and cruise control won't turn on. When I go to the driver assist menu, the adaptive cruise control setting is highlighted lighter than the rest of the options, and when I select it, I am unable to turn off adaptive cruise control. 

I really don't care if the collision warning or adaptive cruise control work or not, I just want regular cruise control and get rid of the warning lights. 

Any help would be awesome. Thanks!

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Welcome to the Forum, danwdc !

The following sections from the 2013 Edge Workshop Manual describe the components and operation of the Adaptive Cruise Control & Forward Collision Warning systems, as well as provide extensive diagnostic procedures guided by Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) and using Parameter Identifiers (PIDs), in most cases.

If your efforts progress to applying specific Pinpoint Test routines requiring wiring diagrams and electrical connector circuit details and locations, I can provide you those informational resources.

Document download links>

Cruise Control — Adaptive - Description and Operation - 2013 Edge-MKX Workshop Manual.pdf

Cruise-Control Module (C-CM) - Removal and Installation - 2013 Edge-MKX Workshop Manual.pdf

Cruise Control Module (C-CM) (with Sensor) Adjustment - General Procedures - 2013 Edge-MKX Workshop Manual.pdf

Cruise Control - Diagnosis and Testing - 2013 Edge-MKX Workshop Manual.pdf

Forward Collision Warning - Description and Operation - 2013 Edge-MKX Workshop Manual.pdf

Forward Collision Warning - Diagnosis and Testing - 2013 Edge-MKX Workshop Manual.pdf

For comparison to your 2013 Edge's left-side Information Screen, the following photos show the menu structure in our similarly equipped (and also GEN 1+) 2015 MKX...

After Normal is selected, the following Warning Message appears, accompanied by a Warning Chime...

• 1 month later...

Thanks for the reply. 

When I get the the screen in your second picture, I can't select anything. The Cruise Control selection is greyed out and won't let me proceed. I think I need to add my vehicle VIN to the new  cruise control distance sensor with Forcan. I am new to Forscan, and can't figure out how to add the VIN.

Any help would be great. Either to add the VIN or delete the adaptive cruise control.

7 hours ago, danwdc said: Thanks for the reply.    When I get the the screen in your second picture, I can't select anything. The Cruise Control selection is greyed out and won't let me proceed. I think I need to add my vehicle VIN to the new  cruise control distance sensor with Forcan. I am new to Forscan, and can't figure out how to add the VIN.   Any help would be great. Either to add the VIN or delete the adaptive cruise control.

Not being able to select anything, tells me maybe someone changed some configurations (As Built Data), hence why it is greyed out. This is a guess only.

For programming the VIN, it would be easier to just download the factory As-Built Data (ABD) from MotorCraft Service site ( link ) and then use the restore function in ForScan. Do it for all modules you suspect have been altered, at-least for the CCM, IPC & BCM (Cruise Control, Instrument Cluster & Body Control) modules.

danwdc: You're correct that the Dorman replacement Cruise Control Module (CCM) you installed needs to be programmed with the same As-Built data that was contained in the original CCM you removed.

If you did not save those values from the original CCM before removing it, you can use the Ford Service Info website to review and/or save the entire set of As-Built data values for the electronic modules in your 2013 Edge Limited AWD, and then use a temporary-licensed or fully-licensed copy of Forscan to manually program the Dorman replacement CCM using the address 764-01-01 As-Built values and then save them to the installed Dorman replacement CCM.

As omar302 advises, go to  https://www.motorcraftservice.com/AsBuilt , and after selecting your Country/Language, submit the form...

...input your Edge's VIN and the Security Check captcha value and sub mit the second form...

...and the resulting As-Built Report for your Edge allows you to Download File an .AB electronic data file that includes the electronic programming for all modules, and the web page provides the same complete data set in text format for you to print for visual reference...

I surveyed Cruise Control Module As-Built data for ten 2013 Edge Limited AWD vehicles offered for sale online, and I found two different programming values in use...

...so it is absolutely necessary for you to obtain CCM As -Built data by submitting your Edge's VIN to the Ford Service Info website.

Forscan probably shows this Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) in the CCM, which you will want to clear if it remains after performing a CCM Self Test after programming the Dorman replacement CCM...

Document download link>   Module Configuration - Diagnosis and Testing - 2013 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf

• 2 weeks later...

Success!! My cruise control is fully functional, including adaptive cruise control. Before, when my cruise wasn't working, I would get "Collision Warning Not Available" every time I started my car. 

I went to C-CM, loaded factory AB. (Let FORScan find it.) Saved it. Write it. Followed the instructions for turning car off and on. It worked. 5 minutes. The numbers at the top of the FORScan picture did change to the correct 0201 and 70. I don't remember what they were before, but I saved it just in case.  

First time I've had working cruise control since I bought this car last June. Adaptive works great too. And I can turn it off or on. 

No warnings when I start the car, for the first time since I have had this car. I do really like it. I am glad it's fully functional. I also had a problem with the car starting or turning on accessory mode on it's own, and the battery running down. Replaced the control panel under the center screen, which fixed all that. 

I wish I would have tried FORScan before replacing a $430 part. I may not have needed it, but it's done and working. I've seen the part on Ford OEM sites for around $1500, and read estimates of $1000 to $1400 to have a Ford service shop program it. I tried to buy the part off eBay, but it was difficult to find the right part number. Either way, I saved at least $2000.

Thanks for the great replies to my post. I am truly very appreciative of all the help.

Great news! Glad you came back and documented the success, some very awesome resources available here for sure, and end result helps out just as much.

Adaptive cruise really is nice on those 10-12 hour drives, even more so on my 2019 with stop and go and lane centering. I don't pay less attention driving, but it help me focus a little less, and helps correct some of my bad behaviors, like running too close to a slower vehicle ahead of me. I will change lanes sooner so it doesn't put on the whoa and slow me down a lot, but if it does I don't over react and force my way into the other lane.

I've read a lot of forum posts for many different topics. It's frustrating when people don't respond with positive outcomes. So if someone sees this in 5 years with a similar problem, they will know my outcome. Even if they don't use my technique, the other posts on this thread provide great information. They really did a nice job.

I used my adaptive cruise tonight for the first time ever. It was real nice. I commute 24 miles each way in Minneapolis. It's hard to let the system brake for you when traffic slows way down. But it works real well. At first, I was going 10 MPH under my set speed, and I thought the cruise control wasn't calibrated correctly. Then it dawned on me, I have adaptive cruise. I think I like 3 out of 4 bars (farther away). I almost want to go for a 2 hour drive, just to see how nice it is. 

I haven't done any hacking with FORScan yet. But I would like to see if I could change the turn signal quick tap from shutting off in 5-6 flashes, instead of 3.  I also need to program my spare key fob that I bought off eBay. I don't think my current key fob is the administrator fob. But for now, I am real happy having cruise control. I'm a big user of CC, even around town. 

11 hours ago, danwdc said: No warnings when I start  the car, for the first time since I have had this car. I do really like it. I am gl  ad it's  fully functional. I also had a problem with the car starting or turning on accessory mode on it's own, and the battery running down. Replaced the control panel under the center screen, which fixed all that  . 

Even though it is working now, if I remember correctly, there is a "calibration" process that you should do for the sensor to work correctly. I also remember that ForScan has this service capability to initiate the calibration.

5 hours ago, danwdc said: I've read a lot of forum posts for many different topics. It's frustrating when people don't respond with positive outcomes. So if someone sees this in 5 years with a similar problem, they will know my outcome. Even if they don't use my technique, the other posts on this thread provide great information. They really did a nice job.   I used my adaptive cruise tonight for the first time ever. It was real nice. I commute 24 miles each way in Minneapolis. It's hard to let the system brake for you when traffic slows way down. But it works real well. At first, I was going 10 MPH under my set speed, and I thought the cruise control wasn't calibrated correctly. Then it dawned on me, I have adaptive cruise. I think I like 3 out of 4 bars (farther away). I almost want to go for a 2 hour drive, just to see how nice it is.    I haven't done any hacking with FORScan yet. But I would like to see if I could change the turn signal quick tap from shutting off in 5-6 flashes, instead of 3.  I also need to program my spare key fob that I bought off eBay. I don't think my current key fob is the administrator fob. But for now, I am real happy having cruise control. I'm a big user of CC, even around town. 

T/S quick tap flash number is easy, but the key fob issue will require a dealership visit or a purchase of hardware and subscription of service to access. At least thats what I've read over and over.

If i'm wrong, let me know.. I lost one keyless push to start fob on a flight some time ago and would love to be able to program a spare too..

Hello to Omar302 in Qatar!

So this is interesting. Remember I'm a newbie to FORScan. 

I removed my front bumper. Replaced the cruise control adaptive distance sensor. Leveled it vertically, with a cheap torpedo level. The horizontal leveling is done electronically, by using FORScan and taking the car for a drive, hooked up to my laptop. It looks at the lines on the side of the road and calibrates the sensor in the horizontal plane. Somehow, with limited knowledge and some luck, I found this calibration tool in FORScan. I followed the onscreen instructions and it said it was calibrated. (Ford dealers charge over $900 for this calibration.)

After successful calibration, my cruise control still didn't work, and I still had the  "Collision Warning Not Available" every time I started my car, as seen above. And, I could not shut off adaptive cruise control, as Haz showed above.

So after I had FORScan find the As Built data for the C-CM (Cruise-Control Module), I was immediately able to turn adaptive cruise control on and off in the Settings menu, left of the speedometer. And the cruise control worked perfectly, both in adaptive and not adaptive modes.

What I found fascinating was that I did not lose the previous calibration I did last  September. The ECU held the calibration, even though I still had the the warning of "Collision Warning Not Available," unchanged from before I replaced the sensor. My only explanation is that there are several systems working separately and simultaneously to work the cruise control system. Having the correct "0201 and 70" was enough to tie it all together.  And that there is no need to actually add the VIN to the new adaptive cruise control distance sensor. Adding the VIN is either done automatically or not needed. 

Overall, I feel very fortunate there wasn't a lot more needed to complete this repair. The physical repair didn't need to be as exact as I first thought, and FORScan had all the answers, with very little prior knowledge on how to use it.  

On this post, I found out how to change the turn signal flash count:  

2016 Ford Edge FORscan changes Green colors are Original setting Red colors are changes made 1 - Change number of turn signal flashes on a quick tap of the stalk from the default of 3.

(SCCM) 724-01-01 xxxx xXxx xx

0 = One Flash 4 = Two Flashes 6 = Three Flashes - (Default C02D 0600 xx ORIGINAL) 8 = Four Flashes A = Five Flashes C = Six Flashes E = Seven Flashes

I'm gonna check this out. 

If I find a post on the key fob issue, I'll let you know. 

I think there is information out there on programing key fobs with FORScan. I found this video, though I haven't watched it yet.

  https://youtu.be/giHkCu10s8g?si=fXe5sM4vXLpDGoYy

And I found this on turn signal flashes for the 2011-15 Police Utility. 

5.   Number of Turn Signal Flashes   - This setting changes the number of monetary flashes. SCCM 724-01-01 xxxx x*xx zz 0-3=1 Flash, 4-5=2 Flashes, 6-7=3 Flashes, 8,9=4 Flashes, A,B=5 Flashes, C,D=6 Flashes, E,F=7 Flashes

https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/2011-2015-police-utility-forscan-settings.468943/

15 hours ago, danwdc said: What  I found fascinating was that I did not lose the previous calibration I did last  September. The ECU held the calibration, even though I still had the the warning of "Collision Warning Not Available  ," unchanged from before I replaced the sensor. My only explanation is that there are several systems working separately and simultaneously to work the cruise control system. Having the correct "0201 and 70" was enough to tie it all together.  And that there is no need to actually add the VIN to the new adaptive cruise control distance  sensor. Adding the VIN is either done automatically or not needed. 

So calibration was done, however, I'd suggest to redo it since the ABD changed. I don't know whether it affects it or not. Correct Calibration is to ensure it works correctly, so even if it is working, there might be something off. This is only a personal opinion.

For the VIN, I don't know it is required or not, however, for modules that need VIN, it is part of the ABD, so programming the factory ABD will automatically add the VIN to the module. The VIN is actually some the ABD values. 

On 11/30/2023 at 4:57 AM, danwdc said: Cerebrus:   On this post, I found out how to change the turn signal flash count:    

misspelling aside, I appreciate the information, but I have already employed several mods to the ABD including the t/s quick tap, seat belt warning, key out of running vehicle beep and shift lock in absence of the key (police mode)

My interest is about adding another fob when you only have one.. which may or may not be possible without IDS subscription, which is cost prohibitive for a single use.. 

• 2 months later...

omar302:  I think you’re right. Recalibration may be needed. Acts a little quirky at times. Good to do for safety too. I’ll do it.

Cerberus: I bought an extra fob on eBay. The seller recommended using a locksmith to program it. I figure a locally owned shop would be best. If someone has a link with Forscan instructions, that would be great. I haven’t really looked into it yet.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/256393105198?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=sssfAuIJQdC&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=a9OMkPeGQhO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

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5 Reasons Why Your Cruise Control Stopped Working

• Updated: March 15, 2023

It would be difficult to find a vehicle on the road today without cruise control. This invaluable feature makes driving long distances easier but can also cause trouble when it malfunctions. Understanding the reasons your cruise control stopped working ensures that you can get the problem fixed quickly for a more enjoyable ride. 

While this fault can cause issues with the cruise control system itself, there could also be an effect on the acceleration of your vehicle. That’s why you want to have it looked at as soon as you notice a problem. Let’s take a quick look at the reasons your cruise control may have stopped working.

Reasons Why Your Cruise Control Stopped Working

The most common reason a cruise control stops working is due to a blown fuse or a defective brake pedal switch . It can also be caused by issues with the throttle control system or the ABS. In older cruise control systems, it can be caused by a broken vacuum line.

Here is a more detailed list of the possible reasons your cruise control is not working:

1. Blown Fuse

All electrical systems in the vehicle are controlled by fuses. Your cruise control system is attached to a fuse that can blow if there is a short circuit or fault. Without a good fuse, the cruise control system can’t work at all.

Thankfully, it’s not difficult to find and replace a blown fuse. Look in the owner’s manual to find the fuse that corresponds with the cruise control technology. 

2. Defective Brake Pedal Switch

The brake pedal switch is responsible for turning the brake lights on and off based on the pedal position. Cruise control systems are designed to disengage whenever your brake pedal gets pressed. 

Because the cruise control is wired into the brake pedal switch, any fault can cause it to stop working. When the brake pedal switch malfunctions, the car believes the brakes are engaged, causing the system to turn off automatically. Not only that, but your car’s brake light might also be stuck on, leaving confused drivers in your wake. 

3. Malfunctioning Speed Sensor

Speed sensors are located on every wheel or differential. The purpose of these sensors is to monitor the speed of the wheels to determine if traction control is needed. 

The speed sensors are also part of the cruise control system. When a sensor fails, the cruise control can stop working and the speedometer might act strange as well. 

If there is an issue with a speed sensor, it will often show with an ABS warning light or a check engine light on the dashboard.

RELATED: 3 Symptoms of a Bad ABS Wheel Speed Sensor

4. Electrical Issues

The cruise control system is electronic, with many components working together to make the system operate. If the cruise control fails to work, you want to check the wiring harness and associated connectors for a fault.

You also need to ensure that the voltage source is supplying enough power to the system. Even the smallest fault can cause defects with the cruise control. In many cases, there can be an issue with the cruise control lever or buttons causing the cruise control to not engage.

If your cruise control buttons are located on the steering wheel it could also be caused by a bad clock spring, which is located behind the steering wheel.

Check the system with an OBD2 scanner to look for any trouble codes related to the cruise control.

RELATED: 5 Symptoms of a Broken Clock Spring, Location & Replacement Cost

5. Damaged Vacuum Actuator, Hoses or Cable (Older cruise control)

If you drive an older vehicle with cruise control, you might have an issue with the vacuum actuator or the cable that connects to the throttle. If there has been damage done to the vacuum hoses or the actuator, the cruise control will stop working altogether.

Additionally, the cable linking the actuator to the throttle must be in good shape. If it has been broken, the cruise control will fail. 

What is Cruise Control?

Cruise control is a feature that is used when you are traveling at a consistent speed. Cruise control was first introduced for automobiles in the 1950s. However, it took many years before it became a staple in the modern vehicle.

This electrical system allows you to set a predetermined speed and take your foot off of the gas pedal. If you are on a long drive, there is less fatigue because you don’t have to try to maintain your speed. Cruise control can also benefit fuel economy because the vehicle uses less fuel when traveling steadily. 

In newer cars, you might be able to find adaptive cruise control , which is a smart technology. Adaptive cruise control allows you to travel at a predetermined speed, but it also helps to maintain a safe distance from the vehicles in front of you with the help of sensors. With conventional cruise control, you need to take over when the car in front of you slows down, but that’s not the case with adaptive cruise control. 

There are also vehicles nowadays with not only cruise control, but fully self-driving vehicles . We will most likely see much more of this in the future.

Cruise Control Repair Cost

The cost to repair your cruise control system depends on what caused it to fail. If you need to replace a cruise control or brake switch, you might spend between $125 and $350, including parts and labor. However, the cost to change a fuse is only a few dollars and you can perform the replacement yourself in just a matter of seconds. 

On the other hand, when something major fails, such as the actuator, you could be looking at a much higher repair bill. In some vehicles, the cost to replace a cruise control actuator can cost more than $700. These costs rise if you drive a luxury vehicle or one that is difficult to get parts for. 

It might not seem immediately important for you to fix the broken cruise control, but this defective system can affect other performance aspects. You could start to notice issues with acceleration or have trouble with the speedometer. To play it safe, it’s always best to have the cruise control repaired as soon as you notice a problem.

Is there a fuse for the cruise control?

Yes. If the cruise control is installed from the factory, you should check your car’s owner’s manual for the fuse location. If it’s an aftermarket cruise control, you’ll need to follow the wires to find the fuse.

Does the brake switch affect the cruise control system?

Yes. The brake switch affects the cruise control system. The brake switch sends a signal to the cruise control system to let it know when the brakes are being applied for the engine to know when it should stop accelerating.

Will the cruise control work if the check engine light is on?

The cruise control function will be disabled when the check engine light is on in most car models, even if the cause of the check engine light is not the cruise control itself. This is mainly due to safety reasons.

Can a vacuum leak affect cruise control?

Older vehicles use vacuum to control the throttle for the cruise control, and in this case a vacuum leak can heavily affect the cruise control. However, modern cruise controls are fully electric and in most cases will not be affected by a vacuum leak if the check engine light is not illuminated.

Although many people may think that the cruise control system is unimportant and not worth spending money to repair, the problem can be caused by a faulty part that will affect the engine’s performance or durability. Therefore, it is best not to ignore the problem if your cruise control is not working without first diagnosing the car properly.

If your cruise control still isn’t working after trying all the tips in this article, it’s probably time to take it in for a professional opinion from a mechanic. It may be a more serious problem that requires replacement parts or repairs. In the meantime, drive safe and enjoy the open road!

Learn more:

• Brake Lights Not Working But Tail Lights Are? (How to Fix)
• Tail Lights Not Working But Brake Lights Are? (How to Fix)
• Brake Lights Stay On? (5 Causes & How to Fix it)

Categories: Electric , Troubleshooting

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Truck of Mine

reliving the truck passion

Ford Cruise Control Troubleshooting & How-to Guide

Ford’s adaptive cruise control is a game-changer when it comes to safe driving. Not only does it help to maintain the approved safe distance from other cars, but it also helps you control your speed when on busy roads or the highways. This gives you a better driving experience overall and decreases your chances of getting into an accident.

How to activate cruise control on a Ford

• Press the ON/OFF button on the steering wheel.
• Then cruise to the speed you wish to be at and Press SET.
• Take your foot off the accelerator and press the car icon on the steering wheel to set the minimum desired gap.

Note: There are four different gap options from close to further away. The more lines on the screen, the further the distance.

• When the cruise control is active, green light with a clock, car, and arrow will appear on the dash.

How to use Ford cruise control with a start and stop

The adaptive cruise control makes driving easier because it eliminates the need to readjust cruise control speed constantly. It uses an intuitive system that automatically adjusts speed to maintain a set distance from slower-moving vehicles ahead. When traffic speed increases, the cruise control system resumes the designated speed.

Press the up and down arrows on your steering wheel cruise control switch to set a gap distance. Use the short, solid arrow above to decrease the following distance. Use the longer arrow below to increase the following distance.

You can cancel at any time by hitting the brake or pressing the cancel button on the steering wheel. They will then return the vehicle to its previously set speed and gap settings when pressing the Resume button.

Note: There are four gap distance settings. One bar indicates the shortest following distance available, while four bars indicates the longest distance.

How to Switch between Normal and Adaptive Cruise Control

• Use the arrow pad on your steering wheel to select “Driver Assist” on your vehicle’s information display.
• Select Cruise Control> Adaptive to enable Adaptive Cruise Control.
• Select Cruise Control> Normal to return to conventional cruise control.

How to deactivate Ford cruise control

Press the brake pedal or cancel on the steering wheel. Refer to the manual to locate the cruise control ON/OFF button.

What Ford models have adaptive cruise control?

Not all Ford vehicles come equipped with the Adaptive Cruise Control features. Additionally, the feature may have varying capabilities on different car models. Below is a list of Ford car models the have the cruise control either as a standard feature or an optional feature;

• Transit Connect
• F-150 Raptor
• F-250, F-350, F-450

How to safely test Ford cruise control

Press the cruise OFF button and hold it down. Then cycle the ignition key from RUN to OFF to RUN quickly without starting the engine. The cruise control indicator light will flash once to indicate that you have successfully entered the test mode.

Ford cruise control troubleshooting

The cruise control module can malfunction from time to time. When this happens, you should determine the issue before trying to fix it. This will enable you to figure out if the problem is as simple or a fuse or a vacuum leak.

Follow these steps to troubleshoot the cruise control;

Start by opening the fuse panel under the steering wheel. Pull up on the fuse panel release lever and then pull the fuse panel down.

Then check the brake lights and cruise control fuses. You can refer to the diagram on the fuse panel cover to locate these fuses. The cruise control system will not work if the cruise control module fuse is burnt or damaged. And the brake lights won’t work if the brake’s fuse is damaged.

Start the vehicle and monitor the vacuum lines on the intake and brake booster to check for a vacuum leak. This air leak will cause the cruise control system to malfunction as the cruise control will not control the vehicle speed efficiently. Also, check for a rough idle and a “sucking” sound coming from the engine bay while running. This is also an indication of a vacuum leak.

Then check to see if the throttle cable is damaged or frayed as this may also prevent the cruise control from working efficiently when controlling the throttle.

Finally, shut off the vehicle and disconnect the negative battery cable. Then loosen the retaining nut on the negative battery cable and slide the cable off the cable clamp. Remove the steering wheel column cover in place and pull the cover off the steering column with your fingers.

Unplug the electrical plug from the cruise control switch. And remove the screws holding the cruise control stalk to the steering column. Inspect the cruise control module and combination stalk. You use a working stalk to determine if the cruise control module or existing stalk is damaged.

Symptoms of a bad cruise control switch

This is the switch that controls various functions of the cruise control system. The switch is mounted on the steering wheel, and it houses all the other cruise control’s controls. When this switch is damaged, it may prevent the proper functioning of the cruise control. Here are the signs of a failing cruise control switch.

The cruise control light doesn’t illuminate

The light should light up immediately after activating the system to let the driver know that the cruise control system has been activated. If the light does not turn on, then the LED indicator controller may be damaged.

The vehicle cannot maintain set speed or acceleration

Irregular speed acceleration is a sign of a failing cruise control switch. The system is designed to control the vehicles speed at a predetermined speed. Lack of speed maintenance or speed acceleration beyond the set speed is a sign of a damaged cruise control switch.

Note: if your cruise control switch is damaged, have a trained professional fix or replace it. Running a self-diagnostic and fixing the switch may void the warranty. You may also end up damaging other components of the cruise control system.

Check this too: Popular 2017 Ford Escape Problems To Look Out For

Ford adaptive cruise control problems and their fixes

Here are some common cruise control issues and the most probable fixes when your vehicle is experiencing cruise control problems.

Issue: Your truck’s cruise control isn’t working at all

• Check the fuse, horn relay fuse, and cigarette lighter fuse to ensure they are not damaged.
• Inspect the throttle actuator cable to see if it is broken or disconnected from the throttle.
• Check the brake light bulbs to ensure they are not burnt out.

Issue: The cruise control won’t disengage when the pedal is pushed

Fix:  Check the brake light switch, fuse, and wiring.

Issue: Some switches work, and some don’t

Fix: Check the switches. They are the most likely culprit and need to be replaced.

Issue: The cruise control system loses speed up long or steep hills

• Turn off overdrive when going on up steep hills. It may help.
• Check the vacuum check valve in the Servo feed line if your truck loses speed on smaller hills.
• Check the vacuum reservoir tank for leaks.

Reasons Why the Cruise Control is Not Working

If your cruise control is not working, you can look at several items to verify the problem. This, in turn, makes it easy to repair. Below are the main reasons why your cruise control is not working;

Brake Light Switch – The cruise control system is automatically cancelled by depressing the brake. Some Ford vehicles can disengage cruise control if the brake light switch cannot be detected.

Brake Lights – The cruise control is designed to become disabled when the brake light is blown.

Fuses and Relays – A blown fuse or damaged relay will affect the cruise control.

Spiral Cable –A faulty spiral cable will prevent the switch from contacting the CCM.

Control Switch – If the internal contacts wear out, the cruise control switch may not contact the CCM. This might disable cruise control altogether, or it might not react to the cancel or accelerate functions.

Check Engine Light – This is an indicator of a failing engine or fuel pump, which may, in turn, affect acceleration while cruising.

Vacuum Leak – A vacuum leak may affect the vehicle’s ability to control the throttle body during cruise control operation. If there is a leak due to a cracked hose or tube, the cruise control system will not work.

Vehicle Speed Sensor – Ford vehicles are fitted with multiple vehicle speed sensors (VSS). The CCM might use a VSS feed from the ECM, instrument cluster, or transmission. If a speed sensor is damaged, the CCM can’t detect vehicle speed, thereby disabling the cruise control system.

Electrical Problems – Check for continuity to ensure power is remitted as it should.

Note: do not under any circumstance if it is faulty. If the cruise control system is defective, it may not cancel on demand, which will create a safety hazard for you or others on the road. Additionally, hire a trusted mechanic to carry out the diagnosis and repair of the cruise control system.

How do I know if my cruise control module is bad?

The most common sign is the inability to use it to activate cruise control. It may also fail to perform various adaptive cruise control functionalities such as distance and speed maintenance. The failure to deactivate cruise control is also a sign of a failing cruise control module.

Is it expensive to fix cruise control?

On average, it will cost you between $150 and $350 to repair the adaptive cruise control. This depends on the parts needed and the labour costs. The car model also affects the sot of the components required to fix your cruise control. The price may also vary depending on your location. Anticipate a higher price markup if you live in a big city.

Introduction

• About This Manual
• Symbols Glossary
• Data Recording
• Perchlorate
• Ford Credit
• Replacement Parts Recommendation
• Special Notices
• Mobile Communications Equipment
• Export Unique Options

Environment

• Protecting the Environment

At a Glance

• At a Glance - ST
• Instrument Panel

Child Safety

• General Information
• Installing Child Restraints
• Booster Seats
• Child Restraint Positioning
• Child Safety Locks
• Principle of Operation
• Fastening the Seatbelts
• Seatbelt Height Adjustment
• Seatbelt Warning Lamp and Indicator Chime
• Seatbelt Reminder
• Child Restraint and Seatbelt Maintenance
• Seatbelt Extensions
• Personal Safety System™

Supplementary Restraints System

• Driver and Passenger Airbags
• Front Passenger Sensing System
• Side Airbags
• Driver and Passenger Knee Airbags
• Safety Canopy™
• Crash Sensors and Airbag Indicator
• Airbag Disposal

Pedestrian Protection

• Pedestrian Alert System
• What Is 911 Assist
• Emergency Call Requirements
• Emergency Call Limitations

Keys and Remote Controls

• General Information on Radio Frequencies
• Remote Control
• Replacing a Lost Key or Remote Control
• Creating a MyKey
• Clearing All MyKeys
• Checking MyKey System Status
• Using MyKey With Remote Start Systems
• MyKey – Troubleshooting

Doors and Locks

• Locking and Unlocking
• Keyless Entry (If Equipped)
• Power Liftgate
• Passive Anti-Theft System
• Anti-Theft Alarm (If Equipped)

Steering Wheel

• Adjusting the Steering Wheel - Vehicles With: Manual Adjustable Steering Column
• Adjusting the Steering Wheel - Vehicles With: Power Adjustable Steering Column
• Audio Control
• Voice Control
• Cruise Control - Vehicles With: Lane Centering
• Cruise Control - Vehicles With: Cruise Control
• Cruise Control - Vehicles With: Stop and Go
• Information Display Control
• Heated Steering Wheel

Wipers and Washers

• Windshield Wipers
• Windshield Washers
• Rear Window Wiper and Washers
• Lighting Control
• Instrument Lighting Dimmer
• Headlamp Exit Delay
• Daytime Running Lamps - Vehicles With: Configurable Daytime Running Lamps
• Daytime Running Lamps - Vehicles With: Daytime Running Lamps (DRL)
• Front Fog Lamps (If Equipped)
• Adaptive Headlamps
• Direction Indicators
• Interior Lamps
• Ambient Lighting - Vehicles With: 8 Inch Center Display Screen (If Equipped)
• Ambient Lighting - Vehicles With: 10.1 Inch Center Display Screen (If Equipped)

Automatic High Beam Control

• What Is Automatic High Beam Control
• Switching Automatic High Beam Control On and Off
• Automatic High Beam Control Indicators
• Overriding Automatic High Beam Control

Windows and Mirrors

• Power Windows
• Global Opening (If Equipped)
• Exterior Mirrors - Excluding: ST
• Exterior Mirrors - ST
• Interior Mirror
• Moonroof (If Equipped)

Instrument Cluster

• Warning Lamps and Indicators
• Audible Warnings and Indicators

Information Displays

• Personalized Settings
• Information Messages

Climate Control

• Automatic Climate Control
• Hints on Controlling the Interior Climate
• Rear Passenger Climate Controls
• Heated Windshield
• Heated Rear Window
• Heated Exterior Mirrors
• Remote Start (If Equipped)

Interior Air Quality

• What Is the Cabin Air Filter
• Locating the Cabin Air Filter
• Replacing the Cabin Air Filter
• Sitting in the Correct Position
• Head Restraints
• Manual Seats
• Power Seats
• Memory Function
• Heated Seats
• Climate Controlled Seats (If Equipped)

Garage Door Opener

• Universal Garage Door Opener
• Auxiliary Power Points
• Wireless Accessory Charger (If Equipped)

Storage Compartments

• Cup Holders
• Center Console
• Overhead Console

Starting and Stopping the Engine

• Ignition Switch (If Equipped)
• Keyless Starting
• Starting a Gasoline Engine
• Starting a Hybrid Electric Vehicle System
• Engine Block Heater

Unique Driving Characteristics

• Auto-Start-Stop (If Equipped)
• Hybrid Vehicle Operation - 3.3L, Hybrid Electric Vehicle (HEV)
• Hybrid Vehicle Frequently Asked Questions - 3.3L, Hybrid Electric Vehicle (HEV)

Fuel and Refueling

• Safety Precautions
• Fuel Quality - E85
• Fuel Quality - Gasoline
• Fuel Filler Funnel Location
• Running Out of Fuel
• Refueling - Excluding: Hybrid Electric Vehicle (HEV)
• Refueling - Hybrid Electric Vehicle (HEV)
• Fuel Consumption

Engine Emission Control

• Emission Law
• Catalytic Converter

High Voltage Battery (If Equipped)

Transmission.

• Automatic Transmission

Four-Wheel Drive (If Equipped)

• Using Four-Wheel Drive
• Hints on Driving With Anti-Lock Brakes
• Electric Parking Brake
• Hill Start Assist

Reverse Brake Assist

• What Is Reverse Brake Assist
• Reverse Brake Assist Precautions
• Switching Reverse Brake Assist On and Off
• Overriding Reverse Brake Assist
• Reverse Brake Assist Indicators

Reverse Brake Assist – Troubleshooting

• Reverse Brake Assist – Information Messages
• Reverse Brake Assist – Frequently Asked Questions

Traction Control

• Using Traction Control

Stability Control

• Using Stability Control

Hill Descent Control

• What Is Hill Descent Control
• Switching Hill Descent Control On and Off
• Setting the Hill Descent Speed
• Hill Descent Control Indicator

Parking Aids

• Rear Parking Aid
• Front Parking Aid (If Equipped)
• Side Sensing System (If Equipped)
• Active Park Assist (If Equipped)
• Rear View Camera
• 360 Degree Camera (If Equipped)

Cruise Control

• What Is Cruise Control
• Switching Cruise Control On and Off
• Setting the Cruise Control Speed
• Canceling the Set Speed
• Resuming the Set Speed
• Cruise Control Indicators

Adaptive Cruise Control

• How Does Adaptive Cruise Control With Stop and Go Work
• What Is Adaptive Cruise Control With Lane Centering
• What Is Intelligent Adaptive Cruise Control
• Adaptive Cruise Control Precautions - Vehicles With: Lane Centering
• Adaptive Cruise Control Precautions - Vehicles With: Stop and Go
• Adaptive Cruise Control Limitations - Vehicles With: Lane Centering
• Adaptive Cruise Control Limitations - Vehicles With: Stop and Go
• Switching Adaptive Cruise Control On and Off
• Setting the Adaptive Cruise Control Speed
• Setting the Adaptive Cruise Control Gap
• Overriding the Set Speed
• Adaptive Cruise Control Indicators - Vehicles With: Intelligent Adaptive Cruise Control
• Adaptive Cruise Control Indicators - Vehicles With: Lane Centering
• Adaptive Cruise Control Indicators - Vehicles With: Stop and Go
• Switching From Adaptive Cruise Control to Cruise Control
• Switching Lane Centering On and Off
• Switching Intelligent Mode On and Off
• Adjusting the Set Speed Tolerance

Adaptive Cruise Control – Troubleshooting

• Adaptive Cruise Control – Information Messages - Vehicles With: Lane Centering
• Adaptive Cruise Control – Information Messages - Vehicles With: Intelligent Adaptive Cruise Control

Adaptive Cruise Control – Information Messages - Vehicles With: Stop and Go

Driving aids.

• Driver Alert
• Lane Keeping System
• Blind Spot Information System
• Cross Traffic Alert
• Traffic Sign Recognition
• Pre-Collision Assist

Drive Mode Control

• What Is Drive Mode Control
• Selecting a Drive Mode

Drive Modes

• Deep Snow/Sand

Load Carrying

• Rear Under Floor Storage (If Equipped)
• Luggage Covers (If Equipped)
• Roof Racks and Load Carriers
• Towing a Trailer
• Trailer Sway Control
• Recommended Towing Weights
• Essential Towing Checks
• Towing the Vehicle on Four Wheels

Driving Hints

• Reduced Engine Performance
• Economical Driving
• Cold Weather Precautions
• Breaking-In
• Driving Through Water

Roadside Emergencies

• Roadside Assistance
• Hazard Flashers
• Fuel Shutoff
• Jump Starting the Vehicle
• Collision, Damage or Fire Event
• Post-Crash Alert System
• Transporting the Vehicle

Customer Assistance

• Getting the Services You Need
• In California (U.S. Only)
• The Better Business Bureau (BBB) Auto Line Program (U.S. Only)
• Utilizing the Mediation/Arbitration Program (Canada Only)
• Getting Assistance Outside the U.S. and Canada
• Ordering Additional Owner's Literature
• Reporting Safety Defects (U.S. Only)
• Reporting Safety Defects (Canada Only)
• Fuse Specification Chart
• Changing a Fuse

Maintenance

• Opening and Closing the Hood
• Under Hood Overview - 2.3L EcoBoost™
• Under Hood Overview - 3.0L
• Under Hood Overview - 3.3L
• Engine Oil Dipstick - 2.3L EcoBoost™
• Engine Oil Dipstick - 3.0L
• Engine Oil Dipstick - 3.3L
• Engine Oil Check
• Oil Change Indicator Reset
• Changing the Engine Air Filter - 2.3L EcoBoost™
• Changing the Engine Air Filter - 3.0L
• Changing the Engine Air Filter - 3.3L
• Engine Coolant Check
• Automatic Transmission Fluid Check
• Brake Fluid Check
• Power Steering Fluid Check
• Changing the 12V Battery
• Adjusting the Headlamps
• Washer Fluid Check
• Fuel Filter
• Checking the Wiper Blades
• Changing the Front Wiper Blades
• Changing the Rear Wiper Blades
• Changing a Bulb

Vehicle Care

• Cleaning Products
• Cleaning the Exterior
• Cleaning the Engine
• Cleaning the Windows and Wiper Blades
• Cleaning the Interior
• Cleaning the Instrument Panel and Instrument Cluster Lens
• Cleaning Leather Seats
• Repairing Minor Paint Damage
• Cleaning the Wheels
• Vehicle Storage

Wheels and Tires

• Using Summer Tires
• Using Snow Chains
• Tire Pressure Monitoring System
• Changing a Road Wheel
• Technical Specifications

Capacities and Specifications

• Engine Specifications - 2.3L EcoBoost™
• Engine Specifications - 3.0L, ST
• Engine Specifications - 3.0L
• Engine Specifications - 3.3L, Gasoline
• Engine Specifications - 3.3L, Hybrid Electric Vehicle (HEV)
• Transmission Specifications - ST
• Motorcraft Parts - 2.3L EcoBoost™
• Motorcraft Parts - 3.0L
• Motorcraft Parts - 3.3L
• Vehicle Identification Number
• Vehicle Certification Label
• Transmission Code Designation
• Capacities and Specifications - 2.3L EcoBoost™
• Capacities and Specifications - 3.0L
• Capacities and Specifications - 3.3L, Gasoline
• Capacities and Specifications - 3.3L, Hybrid Electric Vehicle (HEV)
• Bulb Specification Chart

Connected Vehicle

• What Is a Connected Vehicle
• Connected Vehicle Requirements
• Connected Vehicle Limitations

Connecting the Vehicle to a Mobile Network

• What Is the Modem
• Enabling and Disabling the Modem
• Connecting FordPass to the Modem
• Connecting the Vehicle to a Wi-Fi Network - Vehicles With: SYNC 3
• Connected Vehicle – Troubleshooting - Vehicles With: Modem
• Connected Vehicle – Troubleshooting - Vehicles With: SYNC 3

Vehicle Wi-Fi Hotspot

• Creating a Vehicle Wi-Fi Hotspot
• Changing the Vehicle Wi-Fi Hotspot Name or Password

Audio System

• Digital Radio (If Equipped)
• Satellite Radio
• Using Voice Recognition
• Entertainment
• Navigation (If Equipped)
• Electric Vehicle Information
• SYNC™ 3 Troubleshooting
• Accessories
• Ford Protect

Scheduled Maintenance

• General Maintenance Information
• Normal Scheduled Maintenance
• Special Operating Conditions Scheduled Maintenance
• Scheduled Maintenance Record
• Electromagnetic Compatibility
• End User License Agreement
• Declaration of Conformity
• Declaration of Conformity - Vehicles With: SYNC 3
• Type Approvals

Adaptive Cruise Control – Troubleshooting - Adaptive Cruise Control – Information Messages - Vehicles With: Stop and Go

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Upgrading to Active Cruise Control

By Daddy Nev, June 18, 2021 in Ford Edge Club

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I have now received the parts I need from the US to upgrade the cruise control to active cruise control. I have all the modules and settings that need to make it work as well.

Is anyone interested in me making this a How To: on the Edge Forum? If not, I'll just sloop off and do it quietly.

Happy Friday everyone.

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Edge of Reason

Absolutely no harm in doing a how to. It’s just a case of taking pictures as you go then writing the blurb. If you are doing it, there is every chance that someone else will want to. 

peltertentpole

does anybody know how to program through forscan to decrease start/stop speeds?

On 6/18/2021 at 6:03 PM, Daddy Nev said:   Is anyone interested in me making this a How To: on the Edge Forum? If not, I'll just sloop off and do it quietly.    

This is a pain in the Ar**! Switch gear change over easy, main programming easy. Write one change to the PCM, IMPOSSIBLE. ACC will NOT work without the PCM Cruise Control line being changed and you can't do it.

Outcome - £48 and 6 hours worse off. Don't even bother....

Yeah, and if one of those 1's gets changed to a 0, then you're knackered, new PCM time.

I've seen Forscan mess up a few PCM's and they all needed replacing and reprogramming with IDS. You got off lightly.

18 hours ago, Hamster said: Yeah, and if one of those 1's gets changed to a 0, then you're knackered, new PCM time. I've seen Forscan mess up a few PCM's and they all needed replacing and reprogramming with IDS. You got off lightly. H

In this case better safe than sorry and its all been reverted to previous. Next I think it needs a damn good clean and a ceramic coating.

• 1 month later...

ACC is now fully functional. Issue was a communication protocol issue when talking to the PCM. BIG thanks to the Forscan team for making a custom version for this PCM.

When I get time, I will make a How To. Kids six weeks is just a nightmare to find time for my self!

• 7 months later...

The ACC will work on UK Edge's as long as you have anti-collision system fitted as standard. So does the heads-up light up on the dash if you get too close to another vehicle? If yes, then you can have ACC. The job can be done in about half a day if you are competent and have a licensed version of FORscan.

WARNING. It is very easy to adjust the wrong setting or set the wrong option. YOU have to be VERY careful indeed. If you wish to proceed, then order the part below and let us know, then I'll put together a "How to" for it.

ACC steering control. Ford part  2278290.  It's  about £50 and may take about 4 weeks to get as it will be imported from Ford US.

Vospers Ford. 01752 636494, www.parts.vospers.com. or email: [email protected]

1 hour ago, Daddy Nev said: For Wesow, The ACC will work on UK Edge's as long as you have anti-collision system fitted as standard. So does the heads-up light up on the dash if you get too close to another vehicle? If yes, then you can have ACC. The job can be done in about half a day if you are competent and have a licensed version of FORscan.   WARNING. It is very easy to adjust the wrong setting or set the wrong option. YOU have to be VERY careful indeed. If you wish to proceed, then order the part below and let us know, then I'll put together a "How to" for it.   ACC steering control. Ford part  2278290.  It's  about £50 and may take about 4 weeks to get as it will be imported from Ford US. Vospers Ford. 01752 636494, www.parts.vospers.com. or email: [email protected]   Cheers DN.    

Thanks for the information,  I will  order the ACC control switch asap, once I have it I will get in touch with you.

Thanks again

Registered, and following. I already have the ACC steering control with correct p\n, but for some reason I had no luck in in letting it work.

On 2/28/2022 at 11:12 PM, papinist said: Registered, and following. I already have the ACC steering control with correct p\n, but for some reason I had no luck in in letting it work.

I would need to know what doesn't work or how it doesn't work. I will also need to know what changes you made on the ECU's, so a detailed list will allow me to help you.

On 6/24/2021 at 9:03 PM, Hamster said: Yeah, and if one of those 1's gets changed to a 0, then you're knackered, new PCM time. I've seen Forscan mess up a few PCM's and they all needed replacing and reprogramming with IDS. You got off lightly. H

Hi Hamster,

Did you do the IDS programming yourself or outsource it? Appreciate your feed back 

I have a very close relationship with my local Ford Dealer. I'm not a fan of home re-programming modules. I've seen it go wrong too many times.

Sorry for interrupting your discussion  I am searching  for the ACC switch assembly  Ford part 2278290 but it is saying this number obsolete, what other part number you know of cloud do the job.

Ford 2278290 is possibly replaced by 2509773, I think.

On 3/2/2022 at 9:33 PM, Daddy Nev said: I would need to know what doesn't work or how it doesn't work. I will also need to know what changes you made on the ECU's, so a detailed list will allow me to help you.   Cheers DN

Thanks for your reply.

These are the changes I made:

Quote 1. PCM Module configuration : -set Cruise Control parameter to Adaptive cruise control 2. BCM Module Configuration : -set Cruise Control parameter to Adaptive cruise control 3. ABS Module Configuration: - set Adaptive Cruise Control (down to 30 Kph) to Enabled - Set Forward Collision Mitigation By braking to Enabled 4. IPC Module Configuration: - Set Adaptive Cruise Control and Adaptive Cruise Control Menu to enabled 5. SCCM Module Configuration: - Set steering Wheel Switch Config to 17 Ford Cruise Control or 20 Ford ASLD+ACC  

Actually I first replaced the switch assembly and it did not work (i.e. no response in display with arrows) so I tried the forscan mods to see if the switch needs some value changed to work, but nothing happens.

I thought that the switch assembly was broken and tried to open it, but it seems very simple inside, I doubt it has issue.

55 minutes ago, papinist said: Actually I first replaced the switch assembly and it did not work (i.e. no response in display with arrows) so I tried the forscan mods to see if the switch needs some value changed to work, but nothing happens.

You also need to configure the new switches in so it knows they are there.

This will take more than just drop down configuration changes.

For ACC I would imagine you need to change ABS, Steering Column, Steering Rack, Cluster, Camera and IPC and you would need front camera (correct spec for ACC) and a front radar

I got the list of configuration changes posted by an user here:  https://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/28441-project-get-active-cruise-control-functioning/

He got it working just with switches replacement and that config changes, so I thought to do the same..

5 hours ago, papinist said: I got the list of configuration changes posted by an user here:  https://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/28441-project-get-active-cruise-control-functioning/ He got it working just with switches replacement and that config changes, so I thought to do the same..

He got it 90% working, which means it's not working.

I would say firmware need updating in ABS module to support, possibly even hardware needs updating.

He said he got it "working" so I assumed he has it working..  https://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/28441-project-get-active-cruise-control-functioning/?do=findComment&comment=211033

This is not a simple task. Converting to ACC is no Saturday afternoon job. The entire process took me a whole day in the end, but that was after spending hours and hours trying to resolve a hidden ECU parameter, getting a custom build of ForSCAN and then getting the sequence in the right order.

I'm in process of writing the How To, but you do need to ensure that your Edge has the correct features to begin with and that all the features are fully working with no temporary or persistent fault codes. You then need to buy the CORRECT ACC switch depending on your year and what version is available. Remember, this is a CAN enabled switch and the wrong version switch for your firmware on your ECU's will mean it just won't work and will generate a truck load of fault codes.

So to even think about converting to ACC you must have the following hardware as standard and it must be fully functional.

1. Collision mitigation / warning system with windshield heads-up led;

2. Front camera with traffic and speed sign recognition on the dash.

3. THE BIGGEST POINT. NEEDS TO BE POWERSHIFT / AUTO BOX NOT MANUAL.

If you don't have 1 and 2, ACC mod will fail and will never work. If you have a manual box, ACC can be made to work, but it becomes dangerous to use and there is no way for the car to change down gear when it slows or applies hard braking. If you have a manual box, then its not worth doing due to the risks.

I have 1, 2 and 3 without any doubt. My Edge is a 2017 Sport almost full optional (only panoramic sunroof and ACC are missing)

I bought the acc switch Ford part 2278290, so I should have everything.

Patiently waiting for your guide 🙂

11 hours ago, papinist said: I have 1, 2 and 3 without any doubt. My Edge is a 2017 Sport almost full optional (only panoramic sunroof and ACC are missing) I bought the acc switch Ford part 2278290, so I should have everything. Patiently waiting for your guide 🙂

Have a look on the ForScan Forum, someone should send you codes. It won't be all drop down options.

HOW TO:- Add Active Cruise Control

Hello. The entire ACC process is not a quick job or something for a Saturday afternoon. There is very distinct process you need to follow in order to ensure no faults, errors, blown or damaged ECU's or a detonated airbag.

Disclaimer - You do this mod at entirely your own risk. This guide is based on it working on my 67 plate Edge 2.0 Titanium Lux. There is no guarantee it will work on your vehicle.

You will need an extended license of FORScan using this special version or higher.

FORScan version used: 2.3.42 provided by FORScan team specifically for the Edge PCM.

OBD Tool: OBDLink EX ( amazon UK and US)

SWITCH PACK CHANGE

You need Ford Part:  2278290 or the newer version. NB May need your firmware updating by Ford to support the newer switch. (CAN may not see the new switch if firmware doesn't match and may generate a load of errors and DTC's).

Before doing this you need a pre-modification start-up sequence or you can blow things up or cause serious problems.

1. Attatch laptop to car with ForSCAN. Connect to ECU and scan fault codes. Screen copy or write them down.

2. Clear all codes. Shutdown car, open door and then close it. Lock the car and wait 30 seconds. Unlock the car, open bonnet and remove POSITIVE terminal from battery . Cover with food bag or tape to stop it from shorting. Leave the car for 5 mins to discharge the capacitors.

3. Use video clip from above and remove the airbag. It does get tight when pulling outwards and up, but it does come off. Follow the rest of the video and replace the complete switch assembly.

4. Rebuild the airbag steering wheel and reconnect the battery .

Your switch pack should now look like this below.

5. Power up car and connect ForScan. Connect to ECU and scan fault codes. Screen copy or write them down.

6. Clear the fault codes, power down the car for 30 seconds and power back up. Rescan for fault codes. This should now be clear.

ECU MODIFICATIONS

Disclaimer - You do this mod at entirely your own risk. This guide is based on it working on my 67 plate Edge 2.0 Titanium Lux and myself being a competent Electronics Engineer. There is no guarantee it will work on your vehicle due to may different software / hardware / firmware factors.  Warning. Risk of damage and or bricking your ECU's. You do this mod at entirely your own risk. I accept no liability or  responsibility for any damage or problems this may cause.

Ensure Radio and AC system is switched off and anything connected to 12v outlets is removed.

1. Connect OBD Tool to port and connect FORScan. Backup all modules you work on;

2. Clear any fault codes and follow clearing procedure on FORScan;

3. Enter Configuration and Programming module;

4. Select SCCM Module Configuration (NOT AS BUILT)

Change STEERING WHEEL SWITCH CONFIG LEFT  TO SHOW Ford ASLD+ACC

Comit and write the change. Power off and back on the car.

5. Scan and clear any fault codes.

6. Select PCM Module Configuration (NOT AS BUILT)

Change ADJUSTABLE SPEED LIMITER TO WITH ASL, WITH ISA

Change CRUISE CONTROL TO ADAPTIVE CRUISE CONTROL

7. Scan and clear any fault codes.

8. Select IPC Module Configuration (NOT AS BUILT)

Change ADAPTIVE CRUISE CONTROL TO ENABLED

Change ADAPTIVE CRUISE CONTROL MENU TO ENABLED

9 Scan and clear any fault codes.

10. Select BCM Module Configuration (NOT AS BUILT)

11 Scan and clear any fault codes.

12. Select ABS Module Configuration (NOT AS BUILT)

Change ADAPTIVE CRUISE CONTROL (DOWN TO 30KPH) TO ENABLED

Change FORWARD COLLISION MITIGATION BY BRAKING TO ENABLED

13. Scan and clear any fault codes.

14. Disconnect FORScan and adapter. Power down car, step out, close all doors and lock the car. Wait for 1 minute and then open the car and power up. Using the left control buttons, change the left display screen to Menu, then select;-

ENABLE ADAPTIVE AND OK

Then Start your engine and push the CNCL/OFF Cruise button ONCE to activate Adaptive Cruise. The right display will change and show the below.

Once at the speed you require, press the RES+ button to engage adaptive cruise control. Use the arrows next to RES to lower or increase the distance the car will keep from the vehicle it detects in front of you. As you get closer to a vehicle or an object appears infant of the car, the car will apply the brakes down to 27 Mph and will then go into standby and wait for you to reactive it via the RES buttons.

That's it! It worked for me, but remember it does not replace the real driver and you must stay vigilant behind the wheel.

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Cruise Control not working

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Hey all, My curuise control doesn't seem to be working. What could be the problem here? it turns on, but when I try to set it, it doesn't work. Where is the vacuum thing located...i couldn seem to find itas I think it could be that possibly - it was working fine the other day though.... Thanks Brendan car is 92 nc fairlane of the v8 variety  

If you have a manual, check the clutch & brake switch , mine stopped working because it needed an adjustment. For an auto just adjust the brake switch I hope that solves the problem for you.. Merry Xmas  

thanks svo...its auto...which one is the brake switch...is that the same one that activates the lights? also, how do you adjust the cable? i assume it would be the same for auto as is for manual? Merry Christmas  

Take the steering wheel off and put a little vasalene on all the conector rings this might fix it .........  

If moving the brake switch toward the pedel doesnt cure the problem check there is actually vacumn there. Also another thing to check is that the vac line and vac resivoir are still ok. The vac resivoir is bolted to the drivers side strut tower. The hoses become hard and brittle with the heat from the V8. So much the resivoir on mune has gotten soft at some point and the vac has sucked it in creating a small hole. The cruise still actuallly workes but the hole was small. those would be the things to check first. After that check the brake switch is ok. the cruise system has 2 ways it will be disabled. One from the vac which is dropped out when the brake is applied and 2 the electrical switch which in effect does the same thing as the coast/resume switch. If the electrical side of it is snafu that will cause the cruise to stop working.  

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Cruise Control Not Working

2010 ford edge.

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Jan 20 2012

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Can anyone give me some insight on this?

- Ken M. , Middletown, NY, US

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Home » Tips & Tricks » How to use adaptive cruise control on Ford Edge SUV

How to use adaptive cruise control on Ford Edge SUV

Adaptive cruise control is a feature that once activated, will automatically keep the vehicle at a predefined distance from the vehicle in front of you on the road. The latest ACC system on Ford Edge, and some other Ford vehicles, also has the ability to automatically steer and keep the vehicle centered in the lane.

Ford adaptive cruise control Stop-and-Go function allows the vehicle to come to a complete stop and drive off again as the car in front moves. It allows for a more stress free driving experience during rush-hours.

1. To activate adaptive cruise control, press the ON button on the steering wheel.

2. Then press the SET button on the steering wheel after accelerating the vehicle to your desired speed. You can now take your foot off the accelerator pedal.

3. To adjust the cruising distance, press the gap settings button on the steering wheel.

4. Pressing the gap button will bring up visual representation of the distance on the instrument cluster screen. There are four gap options that you can choose. Pressing the gap button four times will show four bars on the screen. Pressing the button for the fifth time will cycle it back to one bar.

5. The information screen will also show a green icon indicating that the adaptive cruise is active, and also shows cruising maximum speed when there are no vehicles in front.

6. In case the leading vehicle comes to a complete stop, your vehicle will also stop. Now, if the leading vehicle moves again within 3 seconds, then your vehicle will also continue following. But if the vehicle is stationary for more than 3 seconds, the cruise system will automatically deactivate. To resume adaptive cruise, press the RES button on the steering wheel. You can also push the accelerator pedal just slightly to resume.

7. You also have the option to switch to normal cruise control. To do so, press OK button on the steering wheel to bring up settings menu on instrument cluster screen. Scroll down and choose Driver Assist .

8. Then scroll down and choose Cruise Control from the menu.

9. This will open up options menu for Adaptive and Normal cruise. Make your selection using arrow buttons on the steering wheel and press OK .

10. Activating normal mode will disable the ACC, meaning that your vehicle will no longer follow the vehicle in front.

11. To cancel adaptive cruise or normal cruise, simply press the brake pedal, or press CNCL button on the steering wheel. To resume again, press the RES button.

12. Keep in mind that lane centering feature does not automatically gets activated with the adaptive cruise control. You will have to manually activate it every time. To activate it, press the lane centering button on the steering wheel.

13. This feature uses an on-board camera to detect painted road lines, and provides continuous steering assistance. Green vertical lines will appear on the screen to confirm that the feature is active, if they are grey that means the system is on but inactive.

14. Lane centering feature requires the driver to keep hands on the steering wheel at all times. If the system detects hands off the steering wheel for a certain amount of time, it will first give you warning to put your hands back on the wheel. If you don’t heed the warnings, the system will deactivate and also slow down the vehicle to crawling speed while maintaining steering control.

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cruise control not working

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The light on the dash doesn't even light up. The horn works, the brake lights work, so do the headlights. I unplugged the cruise module and plugged it back in. I am out of ideas. Please help! I drive on the interstate and getting a cramp in my leg. Thanks!  

are they electronic? i only know about Vacuum systems...  

Have you taken your car in for the cruise recall ?  

holy crap! i forgot about you wizzard, glad to see you over here. ...don't forget to look at the top of the page to see all recalls that pertain to your vehicle. even if it's an older one, you never know if the previous owner had them fixed  

Yes it is electronic. I looked for the recall thread but the one I found seems to not apply to my taurus.  

Does the horn work and is the airbag lamp on ?  

maybe it's a fuse? like i siad before, i'm more of the old school vac systems...  

phantom said: Does the horn work and is the airbag lamp on ? Click to expand...

Are you getting power to the Cruise module?  

thesavo said: Are you getting power to the Cruise module? Click to expand...

You need to replace the sensor on the end of the master cylinder even if your vehicle is not listed for the recall. It can cause fires. Ford has added a lot of vehicles to the list. Try entering your VIN here: Recall Information - Ford You can use a jumper in the wire harness going to the sensor to test the rest of the CC system. Do not leave it there or you WILL have a fire. Diagrams of the CC system:  

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Cuda_jim said: You need to replace the sensor on the end of the master cylinder even if your vehicle is not listed for the recall. It can cause fires. Ford has added a lot of vehicles to the list. Try entering your VIN here: Recall Information - Ford You can use a jumper in the wire harness going to the sensor to test the rest of the CC system. Do not leave it there or you WILL have a fire. Diagrams of the CC system: Click to expand...

Check the fuse. That was the problem in our Windstar when the cruise stopped working.  

D.Acker said: Check the fuse. That was the problem in our Windstar when the cruise stopped working. Click to expand...

bstone said: Which fuse? In the passenger compartment or under the hood? Click to expand...

bstone said: I called the local Ford dealer and talked to their service dept. I read off my VIN and the guy told me there are no recalls for my vehicle. Do you think that the sensor is the cause of the cruise not working? How much is a replacement sensor and how do I install it? Click to expand...

D.Acker said: Ours was under the dash, I believe #38, but check your manual, it very easily could be different between the Windy and Taurus. Click to expand...

bstone said: Which manual? I looked in the Chilton guide under cruise and it refused to tell me anything, instead saying I needed to go to a mechanic. I am having a tough time finding info. Click to expand...

D.Acker said: The owner's manual for the car. It should list all your fuses\relays and their location. Click to expand...

Going by that it's fuse 28, however, you said your brake lights are working, since those are tied into that fuse I would suspect the problem is elsewhere. Although, I would go ahead and replace the fuse. Our Windstar did something weird, on it the Cruise\ABS are on one fuse, cruise went out well before the Brake\ABS light came on indicating an issue there. I checked that fuse when the cruise started having problems it was fine, it wasn't until the brake\ABS light came on that the fuse completely blew. If you replace the fuse and that doesn't help, look into Cuda_Jim's suggestion from above.  

D.Acker said: Going by that it's fuse 28, however, you said your brake lights are working, since those are tied into that fuse I would suspect the problem is elsewhere. Although, I would go ahead and replace the fuse. Our Windstar did something weird, on it the Cruise\ABS are on one fuse, cruise went out well before the Brake\ABS light came on indicating an issue there. I checked that fuse when the cruise started having problems it was fine, it wasn't until the brake\ABS light came on that the fuse completely blew. If you replace the fuse and that doesn't help, look into Cuda_Jim's suggestion from above. Click to expand...

As a new member here, I cannot post links until my post count is 10 or more. I found your topic at taurusclub.com and posted some (hopefully helpful) diagnostic links there.  

Beamrider said: As a new member here, I cannot post links until my post count is 10 or more. I found your topic at taurusclub.com and posted some (hopefully helpful) diagnostic links there. Click to expand...

bstone said: Hey thanks for the help. I do appreciate it. The guy in this thread was having the identical problem I am. He replaced the actuator (aka CC module) but this did not solve his problem. It appears he was able to enter into a diagnostic mode, something which I hope to do once I have a few free minutes. In the end it appeared he tested the orange wire on the CC cable with a multimeter and it appeared to have no voltage. I guess my next step is to check the voltage on it. I know I need a multimeter but I don't know what to do once I get it. Do I stick the probe into the orange wire? Do I remove the cable and stick the probe into where the orange ends? Please help. Click to expand...

well I replated the Speed Control 15A fuse today. That did not fix the problem. I asked the guy at Advanced Auto Parts what he thinks it could be. He called a mechanic friend of his and I talked to him. The mechanic says that there is a cruise control module (or sensor, can't recall) inside of the transmission. My transmission was replaced in the summer of 07 by the local Aamco and i have a 3 years warranty on it. I will call them in the morning and see about having them take a look at it. I will report back.  

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US opens investigation into Ford crashes involving Blue Cruise partially automated driving system

D ETROIT (AP) — Two fatal crashes involving Ford's Blue Cruise partially automated driving system have drawn the attention of U.S. auto safety regulators.

The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration has opened an investigation of the crashes, both involving Mustang Mach-E electric vehicles on freeways in nighttime lighting conditions, the agency said in documents Monday.

The agency's initial investigation of the crashes, which killed three people, determined that Blue Cruise was in use just before the collisions.

One of the crashes occurred in February in San Antonio, Texas , killing one person, while the other happened in Philadelphia in March in which two people died.

The agency says the investigation will evaluate how Blue Cruise performs driving tasks as well as its camera based driver monitoring system.

Ford said Monday it is working with NHTSA to support the investigation.

The National Transportation Safety Board, which already is investigating the Feb. 24 San Antonio crash, determined in a preliminary report that it was operating on Blue Cruise.

The NTSB can only make recommendations, but NHTSA has the authority to take action including seeking recalls for safety issues.

Ford says on its website that its driving systems do not replace human drivers, who have to be ready to take control at any time.

The Texas crash occurred on Interstate 10 in San Antonio. The NTSB report says the Mach E struck the rear of a 1999 Honda CR-V that was stopped in the middle of three lanes around 9:50 p.m. The 56-year-old driver of the CR-V was killed.

Another driver who was able to avoid the CR-V told investigators that neither its tail nor hazard lights were working at the time.

The NTSB said it intends to issue safety recommendations to prevent similar crashes. It has said it opened the probe due to continued interest in advanced driver assistance systems and how vehicle operators interact with the new technology.

The other crash involving a Mach E killed two people around 3:20 a.m. March 3 in the northbound lanes of Interstate 95 in Philadelphia.

The Pennsylvania State Police said Thursday that a Mach E was in the left lane when it struck a stationary Hyundai Elantra that earlier had collided with a Toyota Prius.

The Mach E hit the Hyundai, pushing it into the rear of the Prius. During the crash, the driver of the Prius, who was outside of his vehicle, also was struck and thrown into the southbound lanes, the release said.

A police spokeswoman said a person from the Hyundai also was on the roadway and was hit. Both victims, males ages 21 and 20, were pronounced dead at the scene.

A police news release on the crash says a criminal investigation is underway and a charge of homicide by motor vehicle while driving under the influence is possible against the 23-year-old woman driving the Mach E.

Ford’s Blue Cruise system allows drivers to take their hands off the steering wheel while it handles steering, braking and acceleration on highways. The company says the system isn’t fully autonomous and it monitors drivers to make sure they pay attention to the road. It operates on 97% of controlled access highways in the U.S. and Canada, Ford says.

There are no fully autonomous vehicles for sale to the public in the U.S.

Both NHTSA and the NTSB have investigated multiple previous crashes involving partially automated driving systems.

Last week NHTSA began investigating whether Tesla’s fix for a December recall involving more than 2 million vehicles equipped with the company’s Autopilot automated system took care of the problem. The recall was done because the driver monitoring system was inadequate and posed a safety risk.

NHTSA said it ultimately found 467 crashes involving Autopilot resulting in 54 injuries and 14 deaths.