pyongyang tourism

North Korea Travel Guide: How to Visit Pyongyang as a Tourist

North Korea is one of the most secretive and mysterious countries in the world, yet before Covid-19 struck, the nation had also begun opening its arms to tourism.

This is how Jordan Simons visited Pyongyang, the capital of North Korea, for 3 days as a tourist in December 2019.

UPDATE: This information was correct as of December 2019, however, because of the recent Covid-19 pandemic, the situation may now be different. Please scroll to the bottom of the article for the latest information.

Table of Contents

What do you need to know about North Korea before you go?

Here’s everything you need to know about travelling to North Korea:

How to book a tour to North Korea

Tourism in North Korea is unlike anywhere else on the planet, so it’s important to know what to expect before you go. Once you’ve crossed the border, your every move will be monitored and controlled by your local guides, and everything they allow you to do has been pre-authorised by the North Korean government. You’ll be on a strict itinerary, which means you can only go where they allow you to go. We can’t stress this enough, but if you step out of line, then you could get into some serious trouble.

Still interested? Ok then.. this is how you can arrange a trip to North Korea.

Read more: 9 Facts About North Korea (That You Haven’t Heard Before)

The first thing you need to know is that you are required to go through a specialised tour company. There are a few of them out there and they have varying itineraries and price points. The main operators currently are Koryo Tours, Lupine Travel and Young Pioneer Tours.

I went through Young Pioneer Tours , as it was recommended by a couple of friends of mine that had been previously. They have various options depending on your budget and time. Since I was short on time and was doing this as an add-on to my Great Wall of China Marathon trip, I opted for their 3-day Ultra Budget tour, which at the time of writing cost 495 Euros.

How to get a North Korea visa : The Chinese Visa Comes First

The tour I booked was overland via a train from China, which meant that I needed to get a multiple or double-entry China visa. You could either meet the group in Beijing or the weird border town of Dandong. I opted for the latter and covered the eery experience in the below YouTube video.

Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to get the correct Chinese visa. We needed to get a double entry (to enable us to get the train back across the border) but something went wrong and they only gave me a single-entry China visa. I was told after that this is a common problem and it’s a much better idea to get a visa agent to handle it than put in the application yourself.

I had to pay an extra 400 euros to fly out of Pyongyang back to Beijing instead, in order to get the transit visa on arrival when landing back in China. It was my fault really; they advised me to get the Chinese visa through an agent and I ignored that advice to save costs! I went directly to the Chinese visa office in Bangkok, which apparently rarely gives out multiple entry visas – especially relating to travel to North Korea. You live, you learn!

There are also tours that do not require a double-entry China visa, as they fly in and out of Pyongyang. This allows you to qualify for a Chinese transit visa on the way there and back. This might be worth it for you depending on the length of the trip, the itinerary and the overall costs.

The North Korea Visa Guide

Ok so that’s the Chinese visa side of the process explained, but how about getting the North Korean visa? For me, Young Pioneer Tours arranged everything for my North Korea visa. All I had to do was fill out some forms and send a copy of my passport over email. This is standard practice for tour companies and they handle every part of the process (and that’s included in the cost of the tour).

So roughly a month before the trip, I sent a photocopy of my passport and filled out a form and that was genuinely it. Easy!

All I had to do next was meet them at the meeting point in Dandong China and they had the North Korea visa card ready for me. Compared to securing a Chinese visa, getting a North Korean visa is simple!

How can US Citizens get a North Korean visa?

Currently, most nationalities from around the world are able to get a North Korean visa, with the exception of people travelling on a US passport.

On 1st September 2017, the US enacted a travel ban on all US citizens travelling to NK. This was in response to the death of Otto Warmbier , who had fallen into a coma while imprisoned in North Korea and died soon after being returned back to his home country.

Because of this, all tour companies decided not to accept anyone travelling on a US passport.

Now I won’t beat around the bush. There are always inherent dangers when travelling to North Korea. It’s still not exactly clear what happened with Otto Warmbier, and I don’t feel I’m qualified to talk about it really, but just understand that this is a reality. It’s something that happened and it’s well worth being aware of before you think about visiting the country. DO YOUR RESEARCH. Most importantly: FOLLOW THE RULES when you’re in North Korea (something Otto Warmbier failed to do).

However, if you are a US citizen with dual citizenship and you have a second passport, you could travel at your own risk.

How long should you visit North Korea?

I went for 3 days but if I’m honest, I wish I had gone longer. The only reason I didn’t book a longer tour is that I was planning to be on another trip straight after and so had a conflict of dates. Unfortunately, that other trip didn’t work out, but that’s a story for another day!

I only had limited time, so I did the 3-day ultra-budget tour option. It meant that I got to see the limited highlights of Pyongyang but if I were you, I would do at least a week inside the country to really gain an insight into what North Korea has to offer – especially as you venture outside the capital on longer tours.

The longer tours enable you to see more of the North Korean countryside, visit the DMZ with South Korea and in many cases, interact with the local people in a more intimate way.

What can you take into North Korea?

If you are travelling to North Korea there are a few things you shouldn’t take with you, and please look up the list in full before going. Examples are religious texts, North Korean history books, guide books, any pornographic material and cameras with GPS ability (including drones).

As it happens, I was told you can get away with the GPS function on cameras (as most of our smartphones have it anyway). Just don’t be too obvious about it and do this at your own risk. Most people chose to leave their laptops and drones in their hostels or hotels back in China.

You are free to take photos and videos of most things – and are actively encouraged by the tour guides (after all, they only take you to where they want you to go!) – with the exception of military sites, military personnel and construction sites. This is also the case in many other countries, however, they are particularly strict on this matter and will go through your camera to delete photos and videos if you are caught.

Is North Korea safe to visit?

In terms of your safety within the country, I don’t believe I’ve ever been somewhere that has felt this safe – hear me out.

The main reason I’m saying that is that there is almost zero crime on a personal level. Theft, for example, is very unlikely to happen to a foreigner. I had no problem leaving my camera and lens in one carriage of the train while I was in the next.

While I completely understand that this is because the thief would receive the harshest of punishments and likely be treated in a very inhumane manner, I believe it’s a fact that is worth pointing out.

You’re also on a tour all the time with two North Korean guides, so there’s very little chance that anyone would target your tour group for any crime.

This obviously does not endorse your safety on a political level, as there is always a chance that North Korea could suddenly change its policy and hold you as a prisoner or worse. This is a reality and is definitely something that should be considered.

To make this clear, this article is just about how I visited North Korea as a tourist and my own personal experience. I am not saying that you SHOULD go there and obviously there are real risks involved.

For example, the GOV UK website advises against ALL but essential travel to North Korea. I’m not exactly sure what essential travel would be, but that’s the official advice.

The main thing I would say as well is that if you do go, just follow the advice of your guides. Here are some simple rules to follow:

• Do not make childish jokes about their idealogy or their leaders
• Do not wander away from the group and ignore the guidance you’ve been given.
• Follow the laws of their country while you’re there, the same as you would in any other country.

Can you still travel to North Korea after the Covid-19 outbreak?

North Korea was one of the first countries to close its borders after the Coronavirus outbreak in Wuhan, China. They did this in February 2020, roughly a month before other countries around the world closed their own.

Experts have said that they made this move because they could not handle an outbreak within their own country due to insufficient hospitals and medical care. As it stands, they have also banned all foreign visitors from coming into the country in the near future.

While this may change over time, we do not expect the borders to be open to foreign visitors any time soon. I would suggest finding the latest news on North Korean travel on the Young Pioneer blog or Facebook page – https://www.youngpioneertours.com/blogs/

Check back in the future if you’re interested in learning more and please ask any questions you have about travelling to North Korea in the comments below.

As always, thanks for reading.

Traveler & Content Creator

My name is Jordan Simons and over the past few years I've learned how to travel the world continuously. Now I want to show you how to do the same.

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12 Things to Do in Pyongyang, North Korea

You don’t get a moment’s rest when you travel in North Korea – be ready for an intense trip of endless sightseeing and activities!

North Korea is not your typical travel destination. Everything is strictly controlled and you’ll be ushered from place to place by two tour guides who you must stick with at all times. You’ll have your entire itinerary planned out for you, often starting each day at 8 am and returning to the hotel late at night. Travelling in North Korea is certainly not a holiday as your itinerary will be totally jampacked.

Your time in North Korea will most likely be centred around its showcase capital, Pyongyang. You’ll do a lot of sightseeing here, with the occasional morning or afternoon trip out to places like the DMZ or Mount Myohyang.

Contrary to popular belief, there are actually a lot of things to do in Pyongyang. From monuments to museums, and funfairs to talent shows, this blog post will show you what you can expect to see during your time in North Korea’s capital city.

The key thing to bear in mind is that you won’t get to see the real North Korea. You’ll be ferried from place to place with zero opportunity for independent exploration. You’ll only see what they allow you to see, in what I believe is a very tightly controlled tourist route. These are, what I would call, showpieces of the regime.

Things to do in Pyongyang, North Korea

Visit kim il sung square.

Kim Il Sung Square is the main square of Pyongyang and is a sight not to be missed. When parades are on, it’s the place to be, otherwise, it’s the least busy city square in the world. We were there when wasn’t a parade; it was quite strange to visit an empty square and it felt a little post-apocalyptic.

Ride the Pyongyang Metro

At 110 metres underground, the Pyongyang metro is the deepest metro station in the world. Covered in propaganda, images of the Kim family, and with station names such as ‘Comrade’, ‘Glory’ and ‘Reunification’, riding Pyongyang’s metro is really quite an experience.

Before 2010, tourists in North Korea were only allowed to ride between two stations, giving rise to a conspiracy theory that the metro was purely for show and that the passengers were actors. We rode for 5 of the 16 stops during rush hour, where there were hundreds of citizens boarding the train. It seems unlikely that this rumour is true.

Go to the top of the Arch of Triumph

Pyongyang’s very own Arch of Triumph greeted us as we came out of the metro at Kaeson Station. It closely resembles the Arc De Triomphe in Paris, but, as our guide kept repeating, it’s the tallest Arch of Triumph in the world and is 11 metres taller than the Parisian one. I told her I was impressed.

There is an observation deck at the top of the Arch which you can go up to for 15RMB (about 2USD). At the top, you’ll be treated to impressive views of the surrounding area including Kim Il Sung Stadium, Moran Hill and the Ryugyong Hotel.

Visit Kaeson Funfair

The Kaeson Funfair – located near the Arch of Triumph – provided what I felt was the most genuine insight into life in North Korea. The funfair was the only place where we were allowed to wander around somewhat freely. Our guides let us mingle with the locals a little and stood guard along the pathways leading to the entry and exit points.

We were, however, told that we should skip all the queues and go straight onto any ride we wanted, because “we’re Western.” This annoyed me, as I didn’t feel that this presented a good view of us as Westerners to the citizens of North Korea. Perhaps they didn’t mind, but as a Brit, orderly queues are an essential part of my culture!

Visit Kumsusan Palace of the Sun

Kumsusan Palace of the Sun used to serve as the official residence of former Supreme Leader Kim Il Sung. His son, Kim Jong-Il, converted it into a huge mausoleum, where Kim Il-Sung and Kim Jong-Il are laid to rest. Their embalmed bodies are preserved inside climate-controlled glass sarcophagi for public viewing.

My visit to Kumsusan Palace of the Sun made me feel very tense, as we had to walk the hall in lines of four and were not to speak.

We had to bow three times to each leader, once at their feet, once at their left side, and once at their right. It was surreal to see real bodies laid on display in this way, and the number of guards watching our every move was extremely intimidating.

Check out Kim Il Sung’s family home

Nestled privately inside a tranquil park you’ll find Mangyondae Native House. This modest straw-thatched home is Kim Il Sung’s official birthplace and where he spent his childhood. He was born on April 15th, 1912, but in North Korea, this year is better known as Juche 1. Yes, the North Korean calendar year starts from Kim Il Sung’s birth.

Your visit to Mangyondae Native House will likely be shared with school groups eager to catch a glimpse inside the early years of their Eternal President. It is customary to lay flowers at the Kim Il Sung memorial plaque outside.

Visit Mansudae Hill

On top of Mansudae Hill sits two giant bronze statues of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il. It’s one of the most sacred sites in North Korea, and visitors must march solemnly toward the statues and bow to them to show respect.

Kim Il-sung – the one with his arm outstretched – was the original monument, unveiled in 1972 to celebrate the leader’s 60th birthday. Kim Jong-il’s statue was added after his death in 2011.

Visit the Monument to Party Founding

Utterly simple design yet undeniably socialist, Pyongyang’s version of the hammer and sickle comes with an extra paintbrush! Built to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Worker’s Party of Korea (I wonder if there are any other political parties?), it is also flanked by two buildings on either side of the monument with communist slogans written in Korean.

The North Koreans have by now become such experts in building monuments that this has become one of their exports to the world. North Korean monument makers have been shipped to places like Angola to build structures in concrete or marble.

Explore the National Library

When we were told we were to be visiting the National Libary, I expected it to be quite boring, but it was actually extremely interesting. It gave us an insight into what Western literature North Koreans are exposed to, which turns out isn’t a lot, but they did have Harry Potter, Shakespeare’s works and Sherlock Holmes.

One of our tour guides who had been really quite stilted and unwilling to talk about her personal interests throughout most of the trip started to open up when I asked her if she’d read Harry Potter. Her face lit up and she said “it’s my favourite! In Chamber of Secrets where Harry sings Happy Birthday to himself – that makes me sad. And Hermione is so brave!” From then on, she was a lot more willing to answer my questions about life in North Korea – it seems that a good book brings people together everywhere in the world.

Watch a school talent show

Your North Korea tour will most likely take you to a local school in Pyongyang, where you’ll watch a talent show. The talent show was very impressive, where the kids put on performances with dance, singing and musical instruments. Apparently, many people in North Korea are very talented as they’re taught singing and dancing during primary school.

Eat a lot of kimchi

I couldn’t not include kimchi in this list – you’re in Korea! You’ll be served it with almost every meal so you don’t really have a choice.

In case you’re not sure, kimchi is a staple food in Korea. It’s a traditional dish of salted and fermented vegetables, usually cabbage or radish, seasoned with spring onions, garlic, ginger and more. I promise it’s much tastier than it sounds!

If you’re not a fan of kimchi, don’t worry – you’ll be very well-fed in North Korea and will have lots of choices.

Explore the Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum

The Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum is a large museum and exhibit dedicated to artefacts from the war. On arrival, you’ll be assigned a female military guide who will show you around the museum and present North Korea’s version of history.

The museum is filled with historical photography and video, expansive dioramas, remnant displays and otherwise incredible attention to detail. Before entering, you’ll see captured US Army helicopters, shot down US Army planes and even the infamous USS Pueblo, America’s ‘Spy Ship’ still held hostage by North Korea that you can board and inspect for yourself.

Further North Korea reading :

• How to visit North Korea as a tourist
• Read about my personal experience in North Korea
• Is it ethical to visit North Korea?

About The Author

Lauren Pears is a freelance travel writer and blogger based in London. She writes about active adventure travel, aiming to encourage and inspire travellers to make the most of the great outdoors.

Thank you for reading! If you found this post useful, I’d be grateful if you would consider using the affiliate links below when planning your travels. I’ll make a small commission at no extra cost to you. This will help me to keep this blog running. Thanks for your support – Lauren. Hotels –  Booking.com Hostels –  Hostelworld Cheap flights –  Skyscanner Travel insurance –  World Nomads Outdoor gear –  Decathlon  /  GO Outdoors Cycling gear –  Chain Reaction Cycles Alternatively, you could buy me a coffee to say thanks!

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• 1.1 History
• 2.1 By plane
• 2.2 By train
• 3.1 By metro
• 3.2 By taxi
• 4.1 Day trips
• 9.2 Mid-range
• 9.3 Splurge
• 10 Stay safe
• 12.1 Health care
• 12.2 Embassies

Pyongyang ( Korean : 평양, P'yŏngyang ) is the capital city of North Korea , with about 2,750,000 inhabitants. It is on the Taedong River in the southwest of the country and is known as the Capital of the Revolution.

Understand [ edit ]

Pyongyang is the capital city of North Korea, and also a "showcase city" where people have a markedly higher standard of living than elsewhere in the country. Many of the nation's tourist attractions can be found here and will likely form part of most travel itineraries to North Korea.

Largely destroyed during the Korean War in 1952, it was rebuilt to be a model city to boost morale in North Korea. The Russian-style architecture features wide boulevards and lots of green space and decoration. The streets are laid out in an orderly grid, and the city is divided into self-sufficient urban neighborhoods all with similar amenities nearby. As movement is restricted in the city, it stands out among large Asian cities for being spacious, uncrowded, and quiet.

History [ edit ]

Pyongyang has been an important city in the region for millennia. In the 300s and 400s, it was the capital first of Nanglang and then of the Goguryeo kingdom. Historically an important commercial center, in the 16th through 19th centuries it became the center of Christian missionary work in Asia.

When Korea was split after the end of World War II, the Soviet Army entered Pyongyang, and it became the temporary capital, which was later made official with the founding of North Korea. During the Korean War, it was largely destroyed as a result of the largest aerial raid of the entire war. With help from the Soviet Union, it was quickly rebuilt.

Get in [ edit ]

see also North Korea entry requirements and formalities

Nearly all visitors arrive either by plane or train from Beijing. You will need a visa before you travel and the authorities will need a minimum of 2 weeks to process it.

By plane [ edit ]

International flights use a new terminal opened in summer of 2015, featuring more seating, an expanded duty-free store, and additional amenities. The new terminal imposes a US$1 parking fee when exiting the lot.

Air China operates a round-trip to Beijing on Mondays and Fridays, with an additional scheduled flight on Wednesdays in the summer. These flights leave Beijing at 13:00, and return from Pyongyang at 17:20.

Air Koryo operates flights to Beijing on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. These leave Pyongyang at 09:00 and return to Pyongyang from Beijing at 13:00.

The cheapest flights in and out of Pyongyang are to Shenyang for US$180 one way on Air Koryo, with service Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays.

If you are in a position to buy tickets within the country, they are on sale in the Youth Hotel's Air China office, which is about 10 km north-east of the city. They provide a free 30 kg baggage allowance. Tickets may also be purchased online through travel agents who typically interact with either the Beijing or Berlin Air Koryo offices. Expect to pay US$300-320 for a one-way ticket to Beijing.

By train [ edit ]

There are two international train services to Pyongyang, from Beijing (via Dandong and Sinuiju ) and Moscow (via Zabaikalsk , Dandong and Sinuiju ). Western foreigners will usually be denied entry to North Korea by train (except for those specially chartered by tour companies).

For trains arriving at 39.0048 125.7366 2 Pyongyang station (평양역), foreigners must exit via the side door at the far end of the station from the gates. Don't join the scrum with the North Koreans, as you won't be allowed to leave via the same door. If you have transported anything via freight on the train, you'll have to go back the next day to pick it up. The (not very busy) customs office is around the back of the building, and is shut between 12:00 and 14:00. There are no charges for collecting customs-cleared goods, and the bureaucracy is fairly simple, especially compared to the chaos of the Beijing railway station.

Get around [ edit ]

Tourists to North Korea will need to be accompanied by an accredited guide or guides, who will arrange where you can visit and how you will get there. However, personal visitors of foreign residents in Pyongyang are free to go around by themselves, unless explicitly told not to by Korean authorities. This can happen, but is not always the case. Foreign residents cannot use buses.

By metro [ edit ]

The metro system has two routes. However, if on a package tour, your short trip on the metro will be organised in advance. Only visitors of foreign residents may use the entire metro. Despite being old, the trains run quite efficiently, and are phenomenally cheap at ₩5 per journey irrespective of distance. The biggest drawback to this form of transport is that the metro is only on the west side of the river, while Munsu dong, where all foreign residents live, is on the east side.

By taxi [ edit ]

Taxis can be taken, but drivers are wary of accepting foreigners. One exception might be the Koryo Hotel, near the railway station. Expect the driver to check with the hotel that he is allowed to take you. Generally around €5 will cover a medium distance one way journey, although the rate for foreigners is US$1/km before 18:30 and US$2/km in the evening.

See [ edit ]

• 39.03058 125.76806 7 Kimilsungia-Kimjungilia Flower Exhibition Centre . This centre houses two floors worth of flowers named after Kim Jong Il and Kim Il Sung. Kimilsungia flower shows are held every year in Pyongyang. Traditionally, embassies of foreign countries in North Korea each present their own bouquet of the flower to the annual exhibition.  

• 39.071696 125.711538 11 North Korean Film Studio . Where North Korean films are made, and see film sets based on Japan, Russia, China and South Korea.  
• 39.008 125.737 14 Stamp Shop ( Next to the Koryo Hotel on Changwang St ). Sells a huge variety of DPRK postage stamps, with designs ranging from Olympic sports to Korean food to DPRK history. You can also buy postcards and postcard stamps, although postage costs are lower on the second floor of the Koryo Hotel.  
• 39.028 125.775 16 Workers Party Monument . This monument is about the Workers Party of Korea. The hammer, sickle and brush are standing for the workers, farmers and the intellectuals. The ring around these the symbols represents their unification. Free .  
• 38.9888 125.7122 21 The Neutron Science Museum . The Neutron is a science museum displaying many science-related exhibits and objects. In the center, a North Korean Missile stands on display. ( updated Feb 2023 )

Day trips [ edit ]

• Mangyongdae , the purported birthplace of Kim Il Sung, is 12 km from central Pyongyang and a good day trip. A collection of huts said to be the Leader's first home is the main attraction. The suburb also features a revolutionary museum , a funfair and a revolutionary school for the children of the elite.
• The Revolutionary Martyrs' Cemetery , around 15 km north east of the city, is a good day out. You walk up 300 steps, through gardens with hidden speakers playing mournful music, to fairly identikit bronze busts set on marble plinths. Seriousness, of course, is mandatory. Taking photos is fine, and on a clear day there are magnificent views over the city. At the foot of the hill there is a zoo and a park. One can visit both, at a small charge, although they are sometimes shut. As you approach, the metro terminus is on the right; it takes around 40 minutes to get back into town on the metro. In the zoo itself are a lot of tigers, dogs and chickens. The two Korean breeds of dog (the lighter coloured is the northern, the darker the southern one) are separated from one another by a steel fence and spend most of their lives barking at each other - quite an appropriate metaphor.
• Some of the tombs of the UNESCO World Heritage listing Complex of Goguryeo Tombs are located in the Taedong river basin outside Pyongyang.
• Panmunjom , the surreal truce village on the DMZ and demarcation line of North and South Korea, is an unforgettable historical site easily visited on a day trip from Pyongyang.

Do [ edit ]

Normally, tourists in Pyongyang are restricted to guided tours. Personal visitors to foreign residents are usually free to wander around, though they may also be placed under the care of a guide.

• Swimming . Foreigners are allowed to use the main public swimming pool on Saturday mornings, and also the ice skating rink in winter. Medical aid may take a long time to arrive.  
• 39.02562 125.76812 2 Bowling . Bowling is available at Golden Lanes for minimal cost.  

Buy [ edit ]

Shopping options are limited. A few department stores exist but have very few things of interest to a visitor. Locals only shop from speciality stores selling groceries and other basic items. Arts and crafts and souvenirs can be purchased in places such as tourist sites and hotels. Some extremely sought-after North Korean souvenirs are metal lapel badges depicting the faces of one or more of the three Kims. They can be difficult for foreigners to acquire; it is often easier to buy them at home on eBay or similar auction sites. There have been reported cases of these badges being seized by customs at departure.

There are several competing prepaid cards available around town, which reduce the hassle of carrying money and change. The ubiquitous and oldest is from the Trade Bank (무역은행), and is available at the Pyongyang Shop in the Embassy district. Its balance is recorded at the hard-currency exchange rate. Guangbok and some stores dealing in local currency offer a card from the Central Bank (중앙은행) with a balance of local won. The Ryugyong commercial bank also offers a card accepted by the Ryugyong shop.

There are several government-run markets, selling a wide range of foods, as well as consumer goods such as shoes and DIY materials. The majority of these products are imported, but some local goods can be found as well. The prices for local products are extremely low by western standards, and the sellers are generally honest although prices are negotiable. These markets are identifiable by their blue, hemispherical roofs. However, apart from Tonghil market, foreigners are generally treated with caution. Indeed, do not be surprised if you are gently, but firmly, escorted from the building. There is no harm in this, providing you comply.

Tonghil market is perhaps the most interesting, as there are many relatively wealthy Koreans shopping there for items many other North Koreans are unable to afford. You need won to shop at these markets, which can be exchanged for hard currencies on the second floor. Photography is prohibited. In Tonghil, be aware that some theft does occur, although it is minimal.

The list of stores known to be open to foreigners consists of:

• 39.0217 125.7914 1 Pyongyang Store . The Pyongyang diplomatic store complex has fresh milk, a duty free section and tailor services. ( updated Oct 2015 )
• 39.0279 125.7554 2 Haemaji . The Haemaji complex features a grocery store, bakery, coffee shop and steak house. ( updated Oct 2015 )
• 39.0077 125.7383 3 CanGuang . The CanGuang complex near the Koryo hotel has a grocery store, cafe and hotel. ( updated Oct 2015 )
• 39.0278 125.7358 4 Potonggang . The Potonggang complex is a 3-storey department store selling food, home good and small appliances. Local currency is used, and there is a currency exchange point across the street. ( updated Oct 2015 )
• 39.0339 125.6923 5 GwangBok . Gwangbok is a 3-storey shopping complex joint venture with a Chinese company. The top floor has a food court, and the second floor has locally-produced clothing. Local currency is used and can be exchanged on the first floor. ( updated Oct 2015 )
• 39.03099 125.73083 6 Ryugyong . The Ryugyong shopping complex has a grocery store, furniture store, and kitchen supplies. There's also a cafe in the complex, a hardware store next door, and an electronics store across the street. ( updated Oct 2015 )
• 38.98 125.7329 7 Tongil Market . A bustling market with imported and local goods. One of the few places to buy fresh meat and produce, and with a bit of everything else. Prices on imported goods will not be significantly cheaper than at other stores, but one of the few places to shop alongside locals. Note: Tongil is not typically a permitted destination for short-term visitors. ( updated Oct 2015 )

Eat [ edit ]

Local residents generally eat at home, and as such the Pyongyang restaurant scene is lacking. You will normally eat dinner at your hotel. There are a number of small diners in the city, but they are mostly aimed at local workers and have rather spartan fare—boiled corn, kimchi, some fish or squid, white rice. The legal situation surrounding these semi-private establishments is complicated, and foreigners are not advised to eat at them. A famous local specialty of Pyongyang is cold noodles (랭면 raengmyeon ); ask your guide if (s)he can give you some opportunities to try it.

There are, however, several restaurants well-suited for tourists.

• Chongryu ( On the bank of the Pothong River ). Designed in the shape of a river cruise boat. A good choice for those fond of traditional Korean food, as over 120 Korean dishes are available.  
• 38.9782 125.731 1 Dangogi Gukjib ( Tongil St ). The most famous place for those who wish to try the Korean speciality of dog. Costs €30.  

• 39.02539 125.76822 2 Haedanghwa ( 해당화관 ), Okryu Taedong River Area 1 East (대동강구역 옥류1동) , ☏ +850 2 678 3333 . Teppanyaki-style restaurant with €30, €50 and €70 set meals. Considered one of the top restaurants in the country, the chefs have been trained in China. The name might have been changed from Haedanghwa to Ryugyong Service Complex in 2016. €30-70 .  
• 39.0173 125.7561 3 Mujigae Boat Restaurant ( Kim Il Sung Square ). A 2015 boat completed for the 70th anniversary of the workers party, the Rainbow boat has 8 food options: a buffet, a traditional Korean restaurant, a revolving restaurant on the 3rd floor, an outside snack bar, a coffee shop, a karaoke bar, four booth areas with a continental menu, and a convenience shop. A fee of USD1 or ₩5,000 is charged upon boarding in addition to the price of food.  
• 39.02874 125.75834 4 Okryu . On the bank of the Taedong River, Okryu was founded in 1960 and is one of the oldest restaurants in the country and one of the few with branches abroad. It is famous for its Pyongyang-style cold noodles. €3-6 .  
• Ryugyong Restaurant ( An Sang Taek St ). Specialises in beef dishes. Recommended for meat-lovers.  
• 39.0133 125.7511 5 Haebangsan . Famous for ox rib soup. USD5-10 . ( updated Sep 2015 )

Drink [ edit ]

There are few bars and clubs to which foreigners are allowed, although North Korean beer is available at hotels. Some may also offer Chinese and other foreign beers, such as Heineken. The local draught beer is excellent, and costs from €0.50 to €1.40.

There are three main places, apart from restaurants and hotels, where foreign residents go to socialise; the old Diplomatic club, near the Juche tower by the river, the Friendship, inside the Munsu dong foreigners' compound, and the Random Access Club (RAC), run by the UN, also inside the foreigners' compound.

Provided that transport (difficult) and permission (less difficult) is obtainable, all of these can be visited. The RAC Friday nights are legendary (not in an "Ibiza" way, though), although what passed for nightlife has dwindled as foreign aid organisations have left the country during 2009.

• 39.01786 125.76635 1 Taedonggang Brewery Restaurant . 7 types of Taedonggang beer are on tap (although only types 1, 2, 5 and 6 are generally available). The restaurant has a large projector typically showing Russian concerts, and brick walls that look out of place in the city. Fairly expensive for dinner, but recommended for drinks. The fries are recommended as a bar snack, although the locals prefer dried fish.  
• 39.0127 125.7624 2 Diplomatic Club . In addition to a pool and restaurant, the upstairs of the diplomatic club has an extensive karaoke area, and a billiards room with a small bar.  

Sleep [ edit ]

This will be arranged by your tour company.

Budget [ edit ]

• 39.01345 125.7505 1 Heabangsan Hotel ( Sungri St, Central District ), ☏ +850 2 37037 . A five-storey building which is the cheapest option in Pyongyang. It has 83 rooms, but rarely available to foreigners. ( updated Oct 2015 )
• Morangbong Hotel ( Morangbong Hill ). 12 rooms and is Pyongyang's smallest hotel. It is the only hotel in Pyongyang with al fresco dining.  
• Pyongyang Hotel ( Sungri St, Central District, near Pyongyang Grand Theatre ), ☏ +850 2 38161 . Class 2 hotel with 170 rooms. Open since 1961.  
• Taedonggang Hotel ( Sungri St, Central District, beside the Taedonggang River ), ☏ +850 2 38346 . 2nd class hotel that has been around since 1956.  

Mid-range [ edit ]

• Potongang Hotel , ☏ +850 2 381 2229 . First-class hotel next to the Potong River about 4 km from the city centre. It has 216 rooms equipped with air conditioning, refrigerator, telephone, and satellite TV. Facilities include restaurants, bar, souvenir shop and a beauty salon.  
• Sosan Hotel ( Kwangbok St ), ☏ +850 2 71191 . First-class option, renovated. Features a pool, bars, Internet, and cable TV.  

Splurge [ edit ]

Stay safe [ edit ].

Pyongyang is a very safe city for foreigners who follow the rules. See the main article for safety information about North Korea.

In addition to the standard emergency numbers ( 119 from fixed-line phones, 112 from mobile phones), for medical emergencies in Pyongyang, you can also dial ☏ +850 2 382-7688 .

Connect [ edit ]

The country code for North Korea is +850 , and the area code for Pyongyang is 2 (and possibly also 195), dialed and written domestically as 02 . Phone numbers in Pyongyang beginning with 381 (e.g. +850 2-381-xxxx) can be called internationally, and can only make international calls and calls to other 381 numbers. Businesses with such a phone number will usually have a 381 number for international calls and a 382 for domestic calls.

Foreigners staying in Pyongyang can sign up with Koryolink mobile phone service. The setup fee for a SIM card and voice service will be either $80 or €80. Signing up for 3G data costs an additional €180. Fees for the mobile service are $8/month for voice and $14/month for data. The included data plan provides 50M of data. The phone network available to foreigners does not interconnect with the network used by citizens.

Hotels aimed at foreigners may be able to provide Internet access, although it should be requested in advance. If you do not have Internet access and need connection the easiest option is likely to schedule a visit to your embassy.

Cope [ edit ]

Health care [ edit ].

• Red Cross General Hospital of Korea ( East-Pyongyang ), ☏ +850 2 28291 .  
• Pyongyang First Aid Hospital , ☏ +850 2 22758 .  
• Pyongyang Foreigners’ Hospital , ☏ +850 2 22160 .  
• Kim Man Yu Hospital ( East-Pyongyang ), ☏ +850 2 28136 .  
• Pyongyang Maternity Hospital ( East-Pyongyang ). Showcase, opened in 1980 with 1,500 beds.  

Embassies [ edit ]

Most foreign embassies in Pyongyang, except for the Chinese and Russian embassies, are in the Munsu-dong area. Citizens of European Union (EU) countries not represented in Pyongyang can seek consular assistance from other EU embassies instead, such as the German or Polish embassies. Citizens of the United States , Canada , Nordic Countries and Australia can get limited consular assistance from the Swedish embassy, although usually only in emergencies. These citizens are also recommended to contact their country's embassy in Seoul or Beijing .

* The Swedish Embassy offers limited consular help to citizens of Australia, Canada, the United States and the Nordic countries . They also handle Schengen visa applications for Italy, Spain and the Nordic countries .

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Pyongyang | North Korea Travel Guide

By Koryo Tours

A guide to the North Korean capital Pyongyang

Pyongyang (평양 | 平壤) is the capital of North Korea and North Korea's largest city. Located in the heart of the Taedong River Valley, the city’s name literally means ‘flat’ or ‘peaceful’ land.

Pyongyang has a history stretching back thousands of years to the early foundations of Korean civilization. Ever industrious and fiercely independent, the city has had a distinct role in shaping Korean history.

American bombing almost totally destroyed the city during the during the Korean War (1950-3) and a new centrally planned city rose from the ashes. Pyongyang, along with Wonsan, is one of North Korea's two 'Hero Cities' for its prominent wartime role.

The city was largely rebuilt along socialist urban planning and architectural principles, though some influence of the pre-war city remains in street patterns and a handful of structures.

...Pyongyang is a city in a park. — 공원속에 평양이 있다.

Major construction drives developed specific sections of the city en masse each decade from the 1950's-1980's and once again in the 2010's.

The city's newest editions are the space-age Future Scientist and Ryomyong streets.

Beyond the grand architecture and monuments, many museums and history sights, traffic ladies, cold noodles, and lotus ponds, Pyongyang has a wide range of sights and activities for visitors.

Due to the large amount of subject matter on Pyongyang, we plan to updates this page periodically.

Names of Pyongyang

Throughout history Pyongyang has been known by a number of official names and nicknames:

* Sokyong: In contrast to the 'Northern Capital' and the 'Eastern Capital' (Tokyo), Pyongyang is the 'Western Capital' (서경 | 西京) due to its location in the western part of Korea, or 'west country' (서도 | 西道).

* Ryugyong , means 'Capital of Willows' (류경 | 柳京), and is perhaps best known for its association with the Ryugyong Hotel — Pyongyang's tallest building which remains incomplete to this day. Ryugyong is a poetic name given to the city for its large number of willow trees that line the Taedong and Potong rivers.

*Prior to 1945, Pyongyang was called 'Jerusalem of the East' due to its relatively large population of Christians. At one time the city had the largest population of Christians in East Asia outside of Manila.

*As the formost city in North Korea and seat of the DPRK government, Pyongyang is sometimes referred to 'Capital of the Revolution' ( 혁명의 수도 | 革命의 首都).

Pyongyang in Art, Film, Literature, and Music

* A Corpse in the Koryo (2006) and other Inspector O mystery novels by James Church are set in Pyongyang (and other locations around the world). James Church is the pseudonym for a former American diplomat with experience traveling to Pyongyang for US-DPRK negotiations.

*American-occupied Pyongyang in the autumn of 1950 is the setting for Richard Kim's novel The Martyred (1964).

Pyongyang Highlights

Arch of Triumph | A triumphal arch, bigger than it's Parisian counterpart.

The Juche Tower | Stone obelisk dedicated to the Juche Ideology.

Kim Il Sung Square | Pyongyang's central square.

Monument to Party Foundation | Iconic hammer, sickle, and writing brush sculpture.

Kwangbok Supermarket | Local supermarket in Pyongyang where tourists can use North Korean Won.

Kimilsungia Kimjongilia Flower Exhibition | Exhibition of the Kimilsungia and Kimjongilia flowers.

Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum | Korean War Museum in Pyongyang.

Korean Film Studio | The studios for North Korean film productions.

Rungrado May Day Stadium | The world's largest stadium, situated in North Korea.

Kaeson Youth Park | Small theme park located close to Kim Il Sung Stadium.

Potong Gate | Pyongyang's old west gate.

The Grand People's Study House | The national library of North Korea.

Pyongyang Baby Home

Children's Traffic Park

Munsu Water Park | Massive water park where local North Koreans go to enjoy a day off.

Mirim Horse Riding Club | Horse riding in North Korea

Mangyongdae

Mansudae Grand Monuments | The statues of the leaders in Pyongyang.

Chollima Statue | Statue of the Chollima winged horse.

Arch of Reunification | Located on the Reunification Highway

Pyongyang Metro | The Pyongyang Metro system

Read more HERE: Pyongyang North Korea Travel Guide

Transportation

Sunan International Airport (FNJ), located 25 km north of the city, serves as Pyongyang's civilian airport.

Pyongyang is accessible year round by flight from Beijing (3-5 days a week), Shenyang (twice a week), Vladivostok (twice a week), and Shanghai (twice a week; high-season only).

There is an international sleeper train four days a week (Sat, Mon, Weds, Thurs) to Beijing and local train to the Chinese border each day.

Download the current schedule of trains and flights to Pyongyang for 2019.

The city lies at the centre of the DPRK’s highway network connecting to most other regions. Travel between other regions often requires passing through Pyongyang.

At the time of writing it is only possible to reach Mt. Paekdu, the Northeast and Rason via special charter flights in summer.

How to visit Pyongyang?

All foreign travellers to Pyongyang need to visit as part of an arranged tour.

Almost all of Koryo Tours regular North Korea group tours and independent tours visit Pyongyang.

Contact us for more details!

What else is going on in North Korea? Check out Koryo Tours' free 75-page guide to North Korea. Keep on eye on the Koryo Tours Blog for regular updates and new entries.

Updated 24 December 2019.

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Kim Il-sung Square

Pyongyang’s central square is where North Korea’s massive military parades normally take place. The plaza is ringed by austere-looking buildings: most impressive of these is the Grand People’s Study House , the country’s largest library. Other buildings on the square include the Korean National Art Gallery and the Korean Central History Museum . There’s a great view from the riverbank across the Taedong to the Tower of the Juche Idea.

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Lonely Planet's must-see attractions

Tower of the Juche Idea

This tower honours the North Korean philosophy of Juche and was unveiled to mark President Kim Il-sung's 70th birthday in 1982. Indeed, the tower is made…

Monument to the Foundation of the Workers' Party

This startlingly bombastic monument has starred on the cover of more books about North Korea than almost any other. The three hands portrayed represent…

Mansudae Grand Monument

Every itinerary includes an homage to these vast bronze statues of the smiling Great Leader and Dear Leader, the latter in his trademark parka. The first…

Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum

Perhaps the most interesting museum in Pyongyang, this mouthful of an institution opened its current home in 2013 to mark the 60th anniversary of the end…

Triumphal Arch

Your guides will tell you proudly that the Triumphal Arch is 6m higher than its cousin in Paris, making it the largest of its kind in the world. The arch…

Chollima Statue

This impressive statue portrays Chollima, the Korean Pegasus. It’s an interesting example of how the North Korean state has incorporated traditional…

The USS Pueblo is a US surveillance vessel that was seized by the North Koreans off the east coast of Korea in January 1968, during a heightening of…

Monument to the Victorious Fatherland Liberation War 1950–53

This impressive monument, which was unveiled in 1993 to mark the 40th anniversary of the end of the Korean War, now forms part of the display of the…

Nearby Pyongyang attractions

1 . Grand People's Study House

This impressive building on Kim Il-sung Sq is the country’s largest library and centre of Juche studies, where any North Korean over 17 can come for free…

2 . Korean National Art Gallery

This large gallery on Kim Il-sung Square is worth a visit to see the postwar socialist-realist art collection. There are 14 rooms of prewar Korean art…

3 . Korean Central History Museum

The Korean Central History Museum is all rather predictable – a large number of exhibits about the North's struggle against imperialism and oppression.

4 . Taedong Gate

This was the eastern gate of the ancient walled city of Pyongyang, built in the 6th century to defend the entrance to the inner fortress from the Taedong…

5 . Tower of the Juche Idea

6 . Party Founding Museum

Located on the southern slope of Haebang Hill is this museum that originally housed the Central Committee of the Korean Workers’ Party, as well as Kim Il…

7 . Potong Gate

The western gate of the original walled city of Pyongyang dates from the 6th century, but was rebuilt in the 15th century and then again in 1955.

8 . Mansudae Grand Monument

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Pyongyang Travel Guide

Experience Pyongyang

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Mao Anying Martyrs Mausoleum

Mount Myohyang

Sino-Korean Friendship Tower

People's Volunteer Army

Arch of Triumph

Fatherland Liberation War Victory Museum

Juche Tower

What to eat.

YU LIU GUAN

The Diplomatic Restaurant - "The New Diplo"

Grand Theatre Restaurant

Pyolmuri - "ADRA Cafe"

The Pyongyang Shop Restaurant - "The Diplo"

The Friendship

Turtle Ship

Cheonglyugwan

Discover the real pyongyang with a local expert.

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20 Must-See Sights in Pyongyang

Pyongyang, translated into English, means flat land. Once the ancient capital of the Choson, Koguryo and Koryo kingdoms, Pyongyang remains the capital of contemporary North Korea. After the destruction caused by the Korean War, Pyongyang has become completely modernized with towering skyscrapers, wide illuminated boulevards and relaxing green parks. Department malls, recreational centers, restaurants and draft beer bars sit between the revolutionary museums, imposing monuments and colorful murals that scatter the city. Pyongyang is home to the Workers’ Party of Korea and has become the most elaborate showpiece of the national Juche ideology. Although North Korea may be mysterious to many of us, this city is ready to show itself to the world.

Here are our top 20 must-see sights on a group tour  or private tour with us to Pyongyang, the capital of North Korea!

Mansudae Grand Monument

The Mansudae Grand Monument is an iconic memorial most notable for its formidable bronze statues of Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il. Each statue stands at 22 meters tall. It’s here that men, women, and children will make a visit to lay flowers at the feet of the past leaders who are seen as guiding fathers to the Korean people. It’s customary to line up and bow in front of the statues, a Korean form of greeting and a showing of respect. Photos are permitted, but you are advised not to mimic the Great Leader’s pose or to cut off any part of the statues in the frame. Kim Il Sung’s statue was once the only resident of Mansu Hill, but after Kim Jong Il’s passing in 2011, a similar statue was erected in his honor and Kim Il Sung’s facial expression and coat were altered to reflect a smiling grandfatherly image. Soon after, Kim Jong Il’s coat was renovated into the signature parka he wore during on-the-spot guidance field trips.

With a mosaic backdrop of Mt. Paektu and tributes to the ‘Anti-Japanese Struggle’ and ‘Socialist Revolution’ on either side, the Mansudae Grand Monument is the most sacred of its kind in North Korea and our number one must-see.

Kim Il Sung Square

Kim Il Sung Square is the major public space at the heart of Pyongyang. Similar to China’s Tiananmen Square, North Korea hold their well-publicized historical events, mass dance celebrations, military parades and even firework displays here. If you’ve seen goose-stepping North Korean soldiers on television, then you’re familiar with Kim Il Sung Square. The area can accommodate a massive 100,000 people and is surrounded by high-profile ministries, most notably the Worker’s Party of Korea headquarters. Other buildings on the square include the Grand People’s Study House, the Korean Central History Museum and the Korean National Art Gallery. You’ll get a fantastic view of the Tower of the Juche Idea across the river. If you’re in Pyongyang on one of our tours over a public holiday, we’ll often get to witness special festivities right on location.

Tower of the Juche Idea

Opposite Kim Il Sung Square perched on the riverbank, you’ll spot the imposing Tower of the Juche Idea. This is North Korea’s tallest monument. This obelisk commemorates the state ideology of ‘Juche’ developed by Kim Il Sung. ‘Juche’ is loosely translated as ‘self-reliance’ and is otherwise the foundation to the political and economic isolationism of North Korea today. Exactly 25,500 granite blocks make up the Juche Tower, each representing a day in the life of Kim Il Sung by his 70th birthday. At the tower’s entry, the local guide will show you a wall of plaques and tributes from those supporting the Juche ideology internationally. When we visit, we’ll take you to the top and you’ll get the best views of Pyongyang all to yourself.

Arch of Triumph

This is typically the first site you’ll visit after reaching Pyongyang. The Arch of Triumph is not to be confused with the 10-meters-shorter Arc De Triomphe in Paris and was built in the exact spot Kim Il Sung was met with thundering applause upon his return from victory over the Japanese and liberation of Korea. Kim Il Sung became determined for liberation by 1925, but it wasn’t until 1945 that he became successful. These dates are now immortalized on the arch itself, as is the poem “Song of General Kim Il Sung”, a piece recited on State television every day. The Arch of Triumph is a spectacle to drive under at night and we can even take you up an elevator to get a clear view of the nearby Kim Il Sung Stadium.

Monument to Party Founding

The Monument to Party Founding was built in 1995 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Worker’s Party of Korea. The Worker’s Party of Korea is the founding and ruling party of North Korea helmed by Kim Jong Un as Chairman. The party is credited with the victories of the Korean people and this accolade is idealized in the monument’s design. The hammer, sickle, and brush represent the idea that individuals themselves hold the key to North Korea’s prosperity under Juche. To the front of the monument is a landing area known to host mass dance and celebration. The red buildings behind represent the waving flag of the Worker’s Party of Korea and are topped with the words “Ever Victorious”. This is a Postcard-Pyongyang selfie you’ll never forget.

Grand People’s Study House

This traditional Korean-style pavilion is North Korea’s largest library with 600 rooms and the capacity to hold up to 30 million books. Kim Il Sung endorsed the idea of ‘study while working’ and so the library offers short courses covering topics such as science and architecture, reading areas packed with ‘revolutionary materials’ and even free lectures and video presentations. The complex is designed to encourage personal development outside work hours. As a tourist, enjoy patriotic tunes in the ‘Music Appreciation Room’, surf the North Korean intranet at an available computer, catch up on some light reading with an English-language ‘Complete Encyclopedia of Chickens’ or perhaps visit room 1004 housing the ‘Works of President Kim Il Sung and books on his greatness.’

Pyongyang Metro

The Pyongyang Metro isn’t just the deepest metro system on earth, it’s a nuclear bunker with purpose-built blast doors and an ultra-nationalistic museum of North Korea’s revolutionary history, ideals, and achievements. Each station is uniquely themed. The ‘Golden Soil’ station celebrates agriculture by showcasing murals of wheat harvests and fresh fruit, while the walls of ‘Construction’ station include mosaics of smiling laborers at work as Kim Il Sung offers field guidance. Statues, bronze plaques, and ornaments scatter the platforms. Transiting here alongside some of the 700,000 locals that do each day will mean leaving with a stronger understanding of what it means to be North Korean.

Kumsusan Palace of the Sun

The Kumsusan Palace of the Sun is the final resting place of Eternal President Kim Il Sung and General Kim Jong Il. Inside separate rooms, their embalmed bodies lie presented inside climate-controlled clear glass sarcophagi for public viewing. Visiting the Kumsusan Palace of the Sun is a formal affair; men will require a collared shirt, tie and trousers and women must dress modestly with shoulders and knees covered. Photography isn’t permitted. Prior to entry, you will go through metal detectors, have your shoes cleaned and walk through purpose-built dust blowers. It’s mandatory to bow before each Great Leader three times. Many of the leaders’ most prized possessions are also on display, including a yacht, Mercedes, golf cart and train carriage. This is a somber yet surreal visit that may just define your trip to North Korea. The Palace is open just twice a week and closed in May and June, so on a short visit to North Korea, make sure it’s included!

Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum

The Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum is a newly renovated exhibit of the Korean people’s fight against foreign invaders. You’ll be assigned a female military-guide and she will provide you with a North Korean version of history that’s generally left unheard or discredited. The museum is filled with historical photography and video, expansive dioramas, remnant displays and otherwise incredible attention to detail. Before entering, you’ll see captured US Army helicopters, shot down US Army planes and even the infamous USS Pueblo, America’s ‘Spy Ship’ still held hostage by North Korea that you can board and inspect for yourself.

Mansudae Art Studio

The Mansudae Art Studio is the largest and most prestigious fine arts studio in North Korea. The state artists here have mastered the socialist-realist style and since 1959, have provided North Korea with their ubiquitous monuments, statues, murals, posters, and even lapel pin designs. The hereditary Kim leadership endorses this studio exclusively to depict their likeness, so on any itinerary to Pyongyang you’re likely to become a connoisseur of their works. Beyond the workshops, we’ll visit a gallery here and you’ll have the chance to buy the ultimate North Korean souvenir for your lounge room wall.

Mangyongdae Native House

Nestled privately inside a tranquil park you’ll find Mangyondae Native House. This modest straw-thatched home is President Kim Il Sung’s official birthplace and where he spent his childhood. He was born on April 15th, 1912, but in North Korea this year is better known as Juche 1, the North Korean calendar year is pivoted off Kim Il Sung’s birth. Your visit to Mangyondae Native House will likely be shared with school groups eager to catch a glimpse inside the early years of their Eternal President. It is customary to lay flowers at the Kim Il Sung memorial plaque outside.

Munsu Water Park

Munsu Water Park is a massive international standard water park, possibly the last thing you’d expect to see in Pyongyang. In the lobby, you’ll first be greeted by a wax likeness of Kim Jong Il smiling by the seaside, then you’ll be handed a socialist-style bathing suit and let loose to make a splash with the locals. There is a myriad of vibrant water slides, an Olympic-sized lap pool, an ocean wave pool and even a lazy river to float down. If swimming isn’t your thing, you’ll find a rock climbing wall, volleyball courts, trampolines, a draft beer hall, and coffee shop, even a barber to get yourself a haircut! After a long day of sightseeing in Pyongyang, Munsu Water Park is a welcome change of pace.

Korean People’s Army Circus

North Korea is renowned for its performing arts and you’ll see why during the Pyongyang Military Circus. It’s a one-hour extravaganza of acrobatic routine, trapeze artistry, juggling and vaulting that sees performers catapult across the stage with a display of balancing skills that’ll blow your mind. The intermission skits are militaristic in nature and keep the North Korean crowd in stitches. It’s common for foreigners to be plucked from the sidelines to join simple acts in the spotlight. Revolutionary displays of music performance and nationalistic marches are included as part of the entertainment. There are no animals used in the show. It’s simple lighthearted fun, the North Korean way!

Revolutionary Martyrs’ Cemetery

Situated on a hillside overlooking Pyongyang, this cemetery features rows of individually sculptured bronze busts of the fallen comrades that were pivotal to the liberation of Korea from the Japanese. The most famous of these is Kim Il Sung’s first wife, Kim Jong Suk, affectionately known as the ‘Mother of Korea’. She has reached a level of admiration in North Korea otherwise only enjoyed by Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il and her grave can be found here. School children and soldiers visit the Revolutionary Martyrs’ Cemetery to lay flowers and give thanks to Kim Jong Suk for her heroic anti-Japanese efforts. The sheer detail and impeccability of this site make it notably unique, and the view itself of Pyongyang city from the top is spectacular.

Foreign Languages Bookshop

The Foreign Languages Bookshop is the best place to pick up souvenirs in North Korea. You’ll find texts ranging from Kim Jong Il’s Songun policy, pamphlets filled with anecdotes of Kim Il Sung’s life to coffee-table spreads with high-quality images inside the Kumsusan Palace of the Sun. The Great Leaders’ complete works have been transcribed into English, French, Chinese, Spanish and Russian and so have North Korea’s daily newspapers and state magazines. Aside from literature, you’ll find anti-American postcards, historical stamp collections, hand-painted posters and even locally distributed DVDs on Pyongyang’s iconic traffic ladies.

Ryugyong Hotel

One of the first questions you’ll ask your guides after arrival to North Korea will be: ‘What is that giant futuristic pyramid?’ This is the 105-floor Ryugyong Hotel and it dominates the Pyongyang skyline, singlehandedly rocketing North Korea’s capital into the 21st century. Construction began in 1987 and until 2009, it was the tallest hotel in the world. Originally intended to house over 3,000 guest rooms, it was never opened to the public and remains under construction, now planned to be a one-stop-shop for revolving restaurants, hotel rooms, apartment rentals, and business space. One can only speculate as to whether it will ever be finished and what will be inside when it is.

Meari Shooting Range

Fancy firing a rifle or a revolver in North Korea? Meari Shooting Range was renovated with cutting-edge upgrades in 2014 and we can take you to test your shooting skills under the guidance of a female Korean People’s Army Officer. The spread of your shots is recorded and displayed on computer screens alike a bowling alley, so you can challenge your friend in the booth beside or just have the spectator’s gallery critique your technique in safety. For 20 Euro, it’s also possible to try your hand at some live pheasant that’s then cooked and served to you for dinner. Compound archery is also available here. When you’re done, you’ll take home a result scorecard for bragging rights.

Pyongyang Film Studios

Come and visit North Korea’s very own Hollywood, the studio behind a plethora of domestic films fixated around the anti-Japanese struggle and the Korean War. Kim Jong Il was a huge fan of film and is said to have even enjoyed the works of James Bond and Rambo; he visited this studio 600 times! Film is a passion for many North Koreans and you’ll see cinemas scattered around Pyongyang. Pyongyang holds an international film festival every two years. At the studio, you’ll tour the post-production complex and the film sets replicating streets and buildings from stereotypical visions of China, Japan, Europe and even South Korea. You’ll also find villages modeled after ancient Korea and tourists are able to let their hair down here and dress up in dynastic movie props for a photo-shoot with their guides.

Pyongyang Golf Course

Pyongyang Golf Course is North Korea’s only golf course. It’s an 18-hole course of international length and in fantastic condition with well-maintained fairways, sand bunkers and freshly cut putting greens. The facilities here include a lavish clubhouse, restaurant, souvenir shop and motorized buggies. You won’t need a tee-time, the course will likely be empty and you’ll have your own personal North Korean caddy to guide you through the grassland complex. Photography is banned for the first five holes extending out into Taicheng Lake. If you’re into golf, this is the course you can none of your friends have played, guaranteed.

Pyongyang Sci-Tech Complex

Discover North Korea’s latest in science and technology at the new and extravagant atom-shaped Sci-Tech Complex. The buildings are entirely powered by a grid of visible solar panels. The lobby is pillared by a model carrier rocket, said officially to ‘symbolize a grand house of science’. The complex itself is filled with e-libraries, exhibition areas including an earthquake simulation room and a model operating theatre, science games for all ages, rooms designed for presentations or lectures and the latest in computer technology inclusive of touchscreen displays. Institutions and individuals are able to connect to these resources from home using the intranet. The construction of this complex and the recently completed Mirae Scientists’ Street is a testament to North Korea’s commitment to scientific development.

BONUS: The Pyongyang Marathon

Once a year, the Mangyongdae Prize International Marathon is held in Pyongyang and it’s one of the most incredible ways to experience North Korea’s capital. This is your chance to break from your guides and run through the streets of Pyongyang side by side professional runners from all over the world to the cheer of roaring North Korean spectators. You can compete in a full or half marathon lengths, or even a 10k or 5k race. The route will pass major landmarks such as the Arch of Triumph and Kim Il Sung Square, giving you a unique point of view otherwise not possible. No matter your skill level, you’ll feel like an Olympic runner as you finish the race inside Kim Il Sung Stadium to a packed house of 50,000 cheering North Koreans. The atmosphere alone is something you’ll never forget. This is a historic event and if you’d like to be part of it, we hold marathon tours during April each year and you can find the schedule here .

You’ll visit many of these sights on a  group tour with us to Pyongyang, and there are further sights we can arrange for you on a private tour . Want to visit outside Pyongyang? We can organize visits to all 9 provinces of North Korea, covering all corners of the country. There is more to see than you may expect!  Contact us and we will provide the available options.

Filed under: Uncategorized , uritours | November 14, 2017

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Pyongyang Must-See Attractions

Things to do in pyongyang.

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• Things to do ranked using Tripadvisor data including reviews, ratings, photos, and popularity.

1. Tower of the Juche Idea

2. Geumsusan Memorial Palace

3. Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum

4. Kim Il-sung Square

5. Mansudae Grand Monument

6. The State Circus

7. Kim Il Sung Stadium

8. Tanjun Mausoleum

9. Rungrado May Day Stadium

10. Triumphal Arch

11. Monument to the Korean Workers Party

12. Daedong River (Taedong River)

13. Munsu Water Park

14. Grand People's Study House

15. Koguryo Tombs

16. Kaeson Youth Park

17. Mansudae Art Studio Gallery

18. Pyongyang Metro

19. Chollima Statue

20. Kwangbok Department Store

21. Mansu Hill Grand Monument

22. Samantabhadra Temple

23. Revolutionary Opera

24. Mangyongdae School Children's Palace

25. Pyongyang Zoo

26. Former Residence of Mangyongdae

27. Tomb of King Tongmyong

28. Yanggakdo Stadium

29. Pyongyang Ethnographic Park

30. Revolutionary Martyrs' Cemetery

What travellers are saying.

• Pyongyang Metro
• Tower of the Juche Idea
• Mansudae Grand Monument
• Kim Il-sung Square
• Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum
• Daedong River (Taedong River)
• Pyongyang Zoo
• Pyongyang Ethnographic Park
• Kim Il Sung Stadium

6 Surprising Things You Didn't Know About North Korea

As tensions between North Korea and the U.S. mount, curiosity about what life is like there has increased.

There’s a lot about North Korea that the world doesn’t know, largely because of the governing regime’s intense control over its citizens and its wary approach to outsiders. But between satellite images, North Korean citizens who fled to other countries, and the small number of people who have managed to visit, a picture of everyday North Korea has slowly emerged.

A view from space, for instance, revealed that North Koreans have experienced a continuous lack of steady electric light across the country at night over the past few years. Other glimpses have shown a crippling famine that lasted for decades , leading to around three million deaths and a continued legacy of starvation.

Eunsun Kim, who escaped with her mother when she was 11 years old, says the country’s indoctrination begins the moment a North Korean citizen is born.

“We were brainwashed even in our mothers’ tummies,” she says. “More than 90 percent of the songs we were forced to sing were about the Kim family or the Labor party. The worship of the Kim family is normal.”

Take a look at the famously guarded country through our photos, videos, and articles, collected here in order to highlight everyday life in an unfamiliar area of the world.

1. Pyongyang is surprisingly pretty from above.

This flyover video of Pyongyang, North Korea’s largest city, is a rare sight, filled with pastel-colored buildings along a winding river. It was created by a foreigner who was allowed to capture footage from a unique vantage point: a tiny airplane that flew over the city.

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Although the government allowed only limited footage, filmmakers Rob Whitworth and J.T. Singh provided glimpses of daily life in the following time-lapse video of Pyongyang, including North Koreans riding the subway, circling historic monuments, and visiting a local skate park.

2. The military is part of residents’ everyday lives (a really deep part).

“You see them everywhere. They’re not just the country’s defense, they’re part of North Korea’s entire identity,” National Geographic photographer David Guttenfelder says.

Soldiers are involved in development and infrastructure projects, and Guttenfelder captured their importance in daily life in Pyongyang . Guttenfelder, one of few westerners who has spent extensive time in North Korea from 2000 to the present, was invited to North Korea’s annual Mass Games performance and the highly choreographed military demonstrations of goose-stepping soldiers and artillery on parade.

Everyone at the event has a role to play, including the spectators, who use color flip-books to make grand mosaics from the stands. The images are usually tributes to the country’s leaders, or simply the military at large.

3. Pyongyang holds glimpses of beauty.

These images by Ed Jones capture North Koreans as they wait at bus stops in the capital of Pyongyang. While their bored expressions mirror those of bus riders the world over, the stops themselves look a bit different in North Korea. Instead of sporting ads or graffiti, they feature landscapes or cityscapes, often with beautiful scenery.

Buses are by far the most common means of public transport in the capital of around three million people, where access to private cars is rare, and they offer an extensive network of coverage. Tickets cost 5 won each, less than 0.1 U.S. cents at free-market rates, making journeys virtually free.

4. A volcano on the peninsula could erupt.

Clouds drift over the peak of Mount Paektu, as seen from North Korea's Ryanggang Province in June 2014.

Sprinkled with villages and blueberries, the sacred and beautiful volcano Mount Paektu has been rumbling in recent years , prompting an international effort to study its underbelly.

A millennium ago, Mount Paektu exploded with a fury rivaling the largest eruptions in recorded human history, hurling crackling rocks and ash as far away as Japan. Despite that violent outburst, Mount Paektu—or Changbai, as it’s called in Chinese—remains fundamentally mysterious. Few outside the region are even aware it exists. And no one knows if, or when, the 9,000-foot-tall peak might erupt again.

5. There is an element of luxury in some North Koreans’ lives.

Between a fancy ski resort and the popularity of rollerblading among elite North Koreans, life there isn’t all doom and gloom. Over the years, National Geographic photographer David Guttenfelder has noticed the increase in rollerblading as part of a greater emphasis on athleticism and recreation that has occurred since Kim Jong-Un took over as supreme leader in 2011.

“I can't count the number of rollerblading locations there are in the capital city and all over,” Guttenfelder says. “It was largely the elite, but it really spread all over the country, this sudden call for people to go out and play games and do recreation.”

6. Subways in Pyongyang are elaborate.

Only two of the subway system’s stops were initially open to tourists, prompting the idea that the stops were part of an elaborate setup. Then the government opened all 17 stops to tourists in late 2015, with surprising results.

Melody Rowell wrote in a National Geographic article that commuters who descend the 316 feet below the city’s central business district are accompanied by a soundtrack of patriotic anthems playing over antique loudspeakers. They pass through thick steel doors that enable the stations to double as bunkers in the event of a nuclear disaster. Each station, named not for a geographic landmark but rather a socialist buzzword, features some combination of gilded statues of Kim Il Sung, detailed mosaic murals, bronze plaques commemorating North Korean military victories, and whimsical chandeliers.

“Every single station pretty much covers all of what they really want the people in North Korea to listen to, and what they want them to be indoctrinated by,” Australian travel blogger and software developer Elliott Davies says. “That's really good for the tourists as well. The whole journey in North Korea is political, where they want you to come out the other side and be like, ‘You know what? North Korea's not that bad!”

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A Tourist in Pyongyang: My First Impressions on Visiting North Korea

11 September 2012

In many ways, North Korea wasn’t what I expected at all… and in other ways it was stranger still than the most sensationalising news stories could ever have prepared me for. I saw a lot during my short time in the country. Much of it aligned precisely with what they wanted me to see, as one might imagine. But over the course of that week I also saw cracks in the facade – and got to glimpse a few things that didn’t quite fit the image of the polished socialist state which Pyongyang attempts to present to its guests, and thereby, to the world.

I have written about some of those experiences in other articles on this website and elsewhere, but this post deals with my first impressions of the place; arriving in Pyongyang as a tourist, and with absolutely no idea what to expect.

Tourism in North Korea

Tourism to North Korea is only possible by approval of the Korean International Travel Company (KITC). A number of foreign travel agencies run short tours of the country under the KITC’s approval, and each group is appointed a pair of North Korean guides. My own visit to the DPRK was arranged through Young Pioneer Tours – an English-speaking company based in China – and the whole process of getting into the country was as easy as any visa I’ve ever applied for.

Having read stories about bugged hotel rooms, rigorous background checks and even entrapment by undercover government agents, however, I was somewhat apprehensive. Journalists have been imprisoned in the past, for attempting to report on the country without the state’s approval. On my visa application form I called myself an ‘SEO consultant’ – but a quick online search would soon reveal examples of my written work. I wondered how easily it could have been mistaken for ‘journalism,’ and whether such a conclusion may have put me in potential trouble.

In reality though, I was overthinking it by far. Korean culture prides itself on hospitality, and our group of nine were treated like honoured guests throughout our stay – from deluxe hotel suites to private performances of song and dance by children at the local school.

Another of the more commonly perpetuated stereotypes of the North Korean people is their blind devotion to the country’s leaders; from founder Kim Il-sung through his successor Kim Jong-il, and now the young heir Kim Jong-un.

Well, reality would appear to corroborate this. Each classroom in Pyongyang’s main school bears the twin portraits of ‘Eternal President’ Kim Il-sung and the posthumously promoted Generalissimo Kim Jong-Il. The same likenesses are present in every train carriage on the Pyongyang Metro, and resplendent on the walls of every dwelling – although the latter I was unable to see, as it still remains illegal for a citizen of North Korea to entertain foreigners in their home.

Hospitals, universities and streets are named after the country’s leaders, and in the heart of the city, their likenesses appear as twin bronze effigies towering over Mansu Hill. On visiting the statues our group was asked to observe the traditional formalities – forming a solemn line at the bottom step, before advancing the long walk up to the monument as one, and bowing low at the metal feet of these dictators.

There didn’t seem to be any pressure to comply. It wasn’t, as some journalists suggest, a case of foreigners being forced to bow before these figures. Rather, it just felt like the appropriate thing to do and no one in our group was looking to cause offence. I bowed to these statues in the same way that I would take my shoes off when visiting a mosque; a token gesture of respect to someone else’s belief system.

Despite their public displays of devotion however, it can sometimes be hard to tell how deep these sentiments run for the people of North Korea.

Founding father Kim Il-sung, without a doubt, is deeply loved by his people. In his youth Il-sung was a high-ranking officer in the revolutionary army, at a time when the Korean peninsula was suffering under oppressive Japanese rule in the wake of WWII. Once the country was liberated he went on to become president of the newly-founded DPRK… leaving his mark on the fledgling nation with a legacy of schools, hospitals and universities, a metro system and film studios. He ran the country like a military brigade, and did not tolerate dissent; but it’s entirely possible that he did it all with the best intentions.

His son and successor Kim Jong-il, however, is best remembered for the Great Famine (in the local rhetoric, the ‘Arduous March’) and for involving North Korea in state terrorism. The praise I heard for him sounded ever-so-slightly automatic.

Late one evening though I got into conversation with another employee of the KITC, who was off-duty and drinking in the hotel bar. After a few beers I broached the topic of politics and asked what he thought of the country’s newest leader, Kim Jong-un.

“Our Dear Leader has only been in power for a few months,” he told me with a sly grin, “we haven’t been told what we think yet.”

Exploring Pyongyang

The tour itself proved to be exhausting.

We would wake up early each morning, grab a quick breakfast in our hotel, then pile onto a tour bus with our guides. After each long day of museums and monuments, studios and schools, we’d try out a range of Korean delicacies – ice cold noodles, barbecued duck, kimchi and even dog soup – before retreating to a bar somewhere to wind down with one of the fine local brews.

For all the rules however, I was pleasantly surprised by the laxity and informal approach of our guides. While on duty they would invariably give us the Party line – their account of the Korean War differed significantly from the version of history I had studied in school, for example. Despite this they were both warm and approachable though, and as the week went on they opened up more and more about their own thoughts and feelings.

Still, I often found myself wondering how much was being kept from us. On Victory Day, for example, as we were being shown an attractive marble statue set in the centre of a water feature, our guide informed us that we had just missed the fountains – which would be coming on again later in the day. The dry and dusty basin around the figures seemed to tell another story, though.

Later on we paid a visit to the Grand People’s Study House – a vast pagoda-styled building which houses an extensive library of books in addition to classrooms, study halls and lecture theatres.

These facilities are provided free of charge to any citizen who wants to put the time into improving their education – we were told – and the building was undeniably very impressive. As we came to leave however, passing by the large marble statue of Kim Il-sung sat in the building’s opulent foyer, the lights cut out. Our guide cursed and shouted an order, the lights flickering back on a moment later. I was left wondering if the lavish lighting displays were perhaps reserved only for the benefit of visitors.

Another awkward moment came during a visit to the Juche Tower; at 170m in height this iconic structure is ranked as the tallest stone tower in the world, and its design supposedly embodies the ‘Juche Idea’: Kim Il-sung’s post-Marxist ideology based on the principals of independence and self-reliance .

Passing by half a dozen numbered floors as we took the elevator to the observation deck at the top of the monument, one member of our group asked what the other floors were used for. The question was met by an uncomfortable silence from our guide, followed by a swift change of subject. Later, as we were being talked through the landmarks on Pyongyang’s skyline, somebody asked the guide if they could point out the home of Kim Jong-un. Again, silence.

It is strange how a country can provoke such a sense of paranoid suspicion; North Korea’s avoidance of certain topics – and its citizens’ general wariness of foreigners – cannot help but arouse interest in the curious visitor. As the week went on I found myself questioning more and more about our surroundings… wondering what was real, and how much was a charade put on for our benefit.

As we strolled through Moranbong Park later that day though, we passed family groups gathered around barbecues, some drinking, others shamelessly serenading one another on cheap microphones plugged into cheaper karaoke machines. At a pagoda located in the centre of the park, dozens of couples were dancing to lively Korean folk songs, while crowds cheered and clapped. Our party was soon enveloped in a throng of middle-aged women eager for foreign dancing partners.

There are some things which just can’t be faked, which have too much substance to be illusion; and the sense of community and festivity in the park that day was tangibly real. But then, to assume that life in North Korea is nothing but endless suffering would be naive. People are people everywhere – they drink and dance and do their best to make the most of their situation.

Propaganda, Distraction & Denial

As the week went on our guides took us for a ride on the Pyongyang Metro , down to Kaesong and the Korean Demilitarised Zone in the south; and to a war cemetery where each grave bore a painstakingly detailed bust of the deceased. We visited a theme park too, during our stay – the third of its kind to be built in Pyongyang. The city’s fourth theme park, meanwhile, had enjoyed an inspection from Kim Jong-un only a week previously.

The DPRK seems to be very keen to show off the facilities in its capital city – and rightly so, as Pyongyang is a truly impressive capital – but while state services such as healthcare and education are provided without charge throughout the country, it is difficult to get an idea of how far these resources stretch. Questions about production levels, health or educational resources, for example, are generally met with responses along the lines of:

“Why would you want to know that? That’s not interesting,” often immediately followed by,

“Look at this beautiful monument,” or —

“Would you like to have a go on the bumper cars?”

It was clear that there are some things they simply don’t want us to know about the DPRK.

Our holiday in Pyongyang culminated with a trip to the city’s only nightclub, the ‘Diplomatic Club’. It was hard to gauge what the venue would have been like on a normal night, as we were the only people in attendance on this occasion – although one of our guides assured us that she had frequented the club often with friends, during her student years. The club was pleasant enough, featuring several sofas and a bar, a small dance floor and a modern karaoke machine. The list of songs on offer seemed extensive; though many of the more unexpected entries ( Megadeth, Slipknot, Nine Inch Nails ) turned out to be ‘temporarily unavailable.’ Instead we listened to our guides sing traditional Korean songs, while the staff brought round after round of strong, local beers to our table.

The following morning our lead guide made a farewell speech, as we stood dazed and hungover beneath Pyongyang’s Arch of Reunification. This symmetrical statue bridges the city’s southern highway, and represents the national dream of a co-operative government ruling over one single Korea.

“We hope you have enjoyed your time in the DPRK, and we apologise if for any reason it has not been up to your expectations,” she said. “We have done our best to show you hospitality, so when you go home, please, speak kindly of us.” Or words to that effect , at least.

I left with a sense of North Korea as a country that is very much aware of its world reputation; the majority of Koreans I met came across as intelligent and cultured, and I’m sure those working for the tourism industry won’t have misunderstood the voyeuristic appeal that draws so many visitors to their country. Nevertheless, the people show a genuine hospitality towards visitors, while Pyongyang itself is a truly appealing city (and particularly for anyone who shares my love of grand, monumental architecture).

Many of the preconceptions I took with me into North Korea turned out to be entirely unfounded. This is simply not the same place that features in the Western news media – whose over-played footage of grey military parades gives no idea whatsoever as to the reality of day-to-day life here. While much of the tourism experience feels contrived and illusionary, what stuck with me most was the small revelation of meeting North Koreans who really seemed to be living happy and fulfilled lives.

Later, we talked about popular video games (another forbidden pleasure in the DPRK), and I had to explain the purpose of the music simulation game Guitar Hero . “Why don’t people spend their time getting good at a real instrument instead?” she asked. Sometimes answers like these left me questioning my own culture rather than hers.

North Korean communism, Juche , is a beautiful idea on paper. Well, some of it is. Our guides – as representatives of the state – described their country in a way that really sold it. Equality, community, tradition; free healthcare, housing and education for all. For people happy to work a mundane job for six days a week, never travel, never have a say in the political discussion, never question authority but spend every Sunday getting drunk with friends and family… Pyongyang seems like it definitely wouldn’t be the worst place to live.

But that’s just the capital. The one percent , the North Korean elite. The way these tours are structured, we only saw selected parts of the country; the things they wanted us to see. We stayed in the areas equipped with mains electricity, running water, medical and educational facilities. I simply can’t comment on the standard of life outside of a few tourism-approved destinations in North Korea (there are few who can), as I wasn’t allowed to see them. It does make me wonder what they’re hiding.

Comments are closed.

Sounds like an interesting place to visit. It’s amazing how many crazy stories are made up about North Korea. I found this video pretty enlightening “The Loyal Citizens of Pyongyang in Seoul” – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ktE_3PrJZO0

With all due respect, though, people do tend to find positive sides even when there are none of. Hence the people who seemed to enjoy the weekends truly. As to the guides, I assume you realise that every single one of them was a special service (aka KGB) agent. There is not a slightest doubt about that. The practice to use KGB agents as the guides was invented and followed all the time in the much freer, more democratic and technically developed Soviet Union. Obviously it may seem far fetched to you, but when you thought they were open with you, they in fact most probably just switched to another mode of inculcating the government approved, more sophisticated agenda. That said, it doesn’t mean that those guides are sided with the government. Most probably they understand very well what lies they’re bound to tell, and hence suffer morally much more than the ordinary people who, at least, don’t have to say anything. For the special service agents in counties like this are far from being some kind of James Bonds, most of them are being recruited via some compromising material, threats etc. This information again is from the comparison to the much more democratic and almost “western”(relatively to the North Korea) Soviet Union where all this was the case. As to being the devil’s advocate, still I miss your point. Hardly the fact that it’s not North Korean people who created such a sadistic entity but that it’s their government’s fault elicits any doubts among anybody except very shortsighted people. The man above said that after seeing and experiencing the war which unfolded after the disintegration of Jugoslavia, he’d prefer any kind of totalitarian regime lest there was any military clashes. I was lucky enough to never experience the war, yet, while I may agree that this would be applicable to Nazi Germany, Pinochet’s Chillie or Stalin’s Soviet Union, in this particular case I’d venture to say that even war would feel better then the life they have. After all this very same man said that there is enough of generous laughter even during the wartime. Think of it as of the Cambodia which wasn’t invaded by Vietnam. Clearly both wouldn’t exist a decade without China backing them, yet there is almost no doubts that Vietnam invading Cambodia and ousting the Khmer Rouge was beneficial for the Cambodian population. The same case may be with the North Korea. But then again, I myself was lucky enough to never experience the war and it’s deprivations, neither have I ever been to the North Korea or even the Soviet Union, so I can’t judge it with the entire certainty.

This author clearly bought North Korea’s propaganda hook, line, and sinker. Wow. Embarrassing piece of writing.

Your extremely naïve if you believe anyone in North Korea, even Pyongyang, is “happy” and “fulfilled”. You admit that much of your trip was just for show, so why would you believe the smiles and so-called happiness was genuine? These people are TOLD how to act and what to say, especially around foreigners. North Korea is run on complete tyranny and every aspect of their lives is micromanaged by the State. Read ANY North Korean defector’s story, even from the families of high-ranking officials and they will tell you that they knew their country was in a horrendous state (especially now with all the smuggled in dvds from China, America and South Korea) and that they had NO freedoms, but due to all the public executions (bet you didn’t see any of those on your wonderful trip, eh?) and other things the regime does to keep them obedient, there is an air of fear and they KNOW if they don’t smile, praise the dear leader or say the right thing, they’re dead or in a prison camp. Every single North Korean defector admits this. They also admit that 75-80% (maybe even more) of North Korea is starving to death and that many have resorted to cannibalism. Not only that, but when Kim Jong Un’s father (or grandfather-can’t remember which) died, the government was watching to make sure the people were showing enough grief or it was off to the gulags for them! How can anyone possibly be happy living in a god-forsaken place like that, where your made to bow to statues, wear pins of the “dear leaders” on your clothing, and are killed if you don’t cry enough for a man that denies you basic freedoms and rights? Everything you saw was just for show. I’ve seen many, many documentaries on NK and on one by the BBC, they had a woman in a hospital obviously pretending to be sick to make it appear as if the hospital was actually functioning and helped people. The reporter John Sweeney even told his guide, “we’re not fooled by this. Where are all the people”? There were none. There was another one where a bunch of students were seated in front of computers but they had no clue how to use them. All for show. There’s one with Lisa Ling where she goes with a doctor to do eye surgery on some blind people (hand picked by the government, of course) and after the surgery, they didn’t thank the doctor at all-nope, they were crying and bowing down to pictures of the dear leaders and thanking them! These people are living in fear and know damn well how they have to act to stay in the regime’s good graces! The hardest documentary I’ve ever watched is called “Heartbroken; North Korea’s abandoned children” or something like that. You wanna know the life of the average North Korean? Watch that. The footage is shot by an actual North Korean who risks his life to show how dire the situation is and has many stories from defectors about how miserable life truly is there. It also shows how, just like yourself, when a journalist friend of the North Korean guy went to Pyongyang, only beautiful buildings and well-dressed, happy and healthy looking children were presented to them, a far cry from the squalor and emaciated children who were literally a week or 2 away from death you see in the undercover footage. I also remember another documentary or video from a tourist I watched on YouTube where right in Pyongyang, they were serving deep fried LEAVES! These people are not happy, and I suggest you watch some of the YouTube documentaries to see what you obviously didn’t see-how people REALLY live in North Korea!

You mean I can stop travelling, and learn everything I need to know about the world from Youtube videos? I wish someone had told me that earlier. Would have saved a fortune in flights.

Oh c’mon. Even in the shittiest times of my life and I’ve lived through the entirety of Yugoslav wars had to flee from Slunj to Knin in 1991 then from Knin to Belgrade in 1995 in a huge refugee column, was resettled in 1997 in Kosovo Polje and then had to flee again in 1999 due to war (fortunately this time we escaped before the bombing itself and finnaly settled at my uncle’s in central Serbia). There was laughter even in bomb shelters, there was streaks of optimism even when we were the most scared. In fact I remember how happy we were at several points both during the war and especially in 1999 after everything when 20 of us, half of which kids, relatives from various towns huddled together in one house for 5 years. Everyone looked out for each other. We always moaned and complained, but that house we had at the edge of Kragujevac where woodland starts was by own admission happiest period of our lives even though by American standards we should have been completely miserable. I highly doubt everyone is miserable in NK and remember they are currently at war. I found the instability and constant moving around far more horrifying rather than poverty we lived in. We also didn’t care much about politics as long as it didn’t affect us directly. I’d exchange frightening night on Mount Dinara of 1995 for any kind of dictatorship as long as it gives stability and security and I think 99.999% of Westerners would do the same and in fact are already so complacent primarily because their oligarchic governments placate them.

*And remember they aren’t currently at war

Well, someone ate up all the bullshit then. You do realise you saw only what they wanted you to see? Have a look at the testimonies and photos by people like Michael Huniewicz and Eric Lafforgue, and read the stories of defectors like Yeonmi Park, who saw family and friends tortured and executed.

“But personally, I much preferred these simple, feel-good posters to the manipulative advertising which tends to litter Western cities,” They are genocidal dictators you cretin, at least the younger of the two certainly is. Thousands of their population are malnourished and starving, their natural environment is utterly destroyed (much more so than any “western” – whatever that means – country).

Appreciation of certain aesthetics in art and architecture does not equal support for genocidal regimes.

“You do realise you saw only what they wanted you to see?”

You would know the answer to that if you had read the article.

Thank you for a wonderful article. I enjoyed your insights.

Thanks, Ashley – I’m really glad you found this interesting.

Really enjoyed reading this. Like so many others I find the DPRK a fascinating country and hope to visit there one day!

Thanks, Dan. It really is worth a visit… and I can’t imagine it’s going to stay like this forever.

Great Article. writing – I loved the info . Does anyone know if I might be able to find a blank Certificate of Origin Korea-US Free Trade Agreement form to complete ?

Good question! I’ll keep an eye open for one next time I’m back.

Anyway, glad you enjoyed the article.

Ever heard of Potemkin villages? Cause you’ve just been taken through a chain of them. Greetings from a native of another DPR.

Sure… but it’s a bit more complicated than that, Chris. Because the point I’ve made here, and in other articles I’ve written about this country, is that you DO see things that show the country in a bad light. Particularly on tours going from one city to the next, when passing through rural areas. It may be possible to groom a village or city district to create an illusion, but I don’t believe even North Korea could control literally everything you see while you’re there. That’s why local guides are always keen to check what photos visitors are taking. The most interesting thing about visiting, for me, were the moments when that illusion failed.

Thank you for giving me a good post! But I think you should go to South Korea. South Korea is more beautiful than North Claude- said correct. Whole world would live in peace. But South Korea is free and respect of human right.

Thank you! And you’re right, of course – I really should visit South Korea soon. It’s pretty high on my list of places to see…

Your comment is more critical than it looks like 😉 but you’ve just missed a fundamental point, which explains a lot of points that generated doubts to you: the two Koreas are de facto still in war, because no treaty of peace followed Korean War, so every tourist is potentially a spy. If South Korea didn’t exist and the USA had a progressive government at its head, surely not only the DPRK but also the whole world would live in peace. Best regards from Italy

Hi Claude – that’s a really good point, and yes, it’s worth keeping in mind. Certainly explains a lot of the paranoia! Thanks for stopping by.

I enjoy your critical thinking on the subject of the DPRK. I do believe that north Korea can be improved by both government and people in the sense that the people can be rationally introduced rationally to be comfortable with foreign contexts and the fact that the government can return out of a survival state into a functioning one (provided its security concerns are addressed. Although until a unilateral agreement of nuclear weapons are addressed as being eradicated, I find it an irresponsible and highly hypocritical to impose punishment for attempting to achieve what other nations have.)

Thanks Johnathon.

Completely agree with your points – there’s nothing wrong with a country being a bit ‘different’, but there are a few human rights (and nuclear) issues that need addressing in the short term. I’d love to see the DPRK evolve into a functional, responsible, and globally accepted entity. I hope it happens in my lifetime.

I find the subject as a whole- so-called ‘Dark Tourism’, places shrouded in mystery- interesting and was really fascinated by your account of your tour through Pyongyang. It was thought provoking to say the least.

Thank you for commenting Mary, I’m glad you found this thought-provoking.

This report has had mixed responses, but I really wanted to share the experience of taking a tour through the city – by giving a sense of the way Pyongyang is presented by its residents, rather than the more prevalent perspectives which dominate Western media.

And yes, Dark Tourism, as a field of study, is a truly fascinating concept.

Interesting article, I’d love to be able to visit that city, but unfortunately I can’t tolerate to be driven around by escorts like a sort of alien to baby-sit/brainwash and fill with propaganda (which, in my humble opinion, is as disgusting as advertising, and it certainly caused more deaths than the latter throughout the centuries)… Just one thought… Can you provide an example of a country where Communism actually worked, and where people have/had freedom of speech? 🙂

It certainly is an interesting city… though if you can’t tolerate being treated with suspicion and fake hospitality, then it’s not for you. That’s not to say the people are inhospitable – just that the whole nature of the tour feels rather fake.

It’s difficult to offer an example of communism actually *working* – and I’m by no means in favour of communism. However, one of the problems in comparing it to democracy is that communism sets out to do the best for everyone (an impossible, doomed task).

As democracy only aims to please a voting majority, it’s always going to look more successful on paper – as its aims are actually achievable.

I don’t believe communism has ever truly worked, though there are times when it has looked like coming close. Read up on the Spanish communist regime, for example – it was one of the more successful attempts.

It is a beautiful description of pyonyong. I feel it is really a good city to visit and wish to go there, though clouds of despair and war are shrouding over it since long….. War is no solution of anything, they should sit on the tables to decide issues peacefully and let the city visited by tourists 🙂

Thanks for your thoughtful comment, Huzaifa. It really is a wonderful city to visit – both the architecture and the culture are fascinating, even without taking the dubious politics into account.

Like you, I hope that some day things improve there, and that tourists are given greater freedom to visit this amazing city.

Might also be hard to “sing and dance” when there’s nothing to eat. Just came across this horror story:

http://www.independent.co.uk/news/world/asia/north-korean-cannibalism-fears-amid-claims-starving-people-forced-to-desperate-measures-8468781.html

Here, I’ll turn it into a proper link:

North Korean cannibalism fears amid claims starving people forced to desperate measures

In the post above I briefly mentioned the stories of cannibalism that were reported in some provinces of the DPRK during the 1990s – but it’s alarming to think that something like this could still be occurring today. It’s hard to imagine the hunger and desperation which would push someone to such an act.

Thank you for sharing this.

What a myopic view on North Korea.

…”happy, fulfilled communists “, “Communism, on the other hand, is a beautiful idea; and when it works, it really works.”

Wow. These a brilliant.

Personally, I tend to think this would paint a more realistic picture of the situation:

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/asia/northkorea/9191998/What-North-Koreans-really-think-of-Kim-Jong-un.html

Thanks Zakhar, I’m glad you agree. The official tour of Pyongyang is one of the most myopic experiences to be had!

I like your approach of playing “against the man” (describing Korea in a way most people don’t, but I think there is some flaw in it, and you know it too.

Of course for tourist they make the place look lavish and excellent, and you mention how you think Pyongyang would be a great place to live if you don’t mind working 6 days a week and had educational areas, lights, etc, and for a moment I thought “yeah that isn’t too bad!”

But lets be realistic here. There is a reason your tour is restricted and they’re dodging questions. You mention it because you know it, I know better than to lecture you on this. Do we REALLY know what kind of lives the people outside of the tourist zones live?

I have a deep interest in North Korea (watched and read as much as I could, hence why I’m here.). I feel like if you’re in the equivalent of the upper middle class in the USA, you would be the middle class in N. Korea. This means to me, that their middle class is most likely (none of us can prove it), living in conditions we’d consider bad or poor. That saddens me. I hope Unny can stir the nation in the right direction so people can live a better life style.

I also find it interesting how the Koreans respond to Kim Jung Il in a more negative light than his father, I never thought about that. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.

I also agree, the lack of ads would be amazing. I hate our consumer culture and how they type into people’s lustful desires. Absolutely hate K-Pop and the way it’s advertised.

Cheers and great review.

Thanks for the feedback – it sounds like you see exactly where I’m coming from. It’s hard to find anything online which prepares you for the experience of actually visiting North Korea for yourself… and there are certainly moments during a tour when you find yourself thinking, as you say, “that isn’t too bad!”.

Obviously most of us know better than to take such things without some degree of reasonable doubt, but that part is easy. I doubted most of what I saw and heard in the DPRK, and I would expect my readers to do the same; instead, I wanted to focus on chronicling the aspect which isn’t so readily available, which is the way in which North Koreans present themselves.

In a way I’m playing devil’s advocate here, but I think it also raises a lot of interesting points. There is certainly a lot to like about Pyongyang, which, politics aside, has become one of my favourite cities in the world.

In reality though, we know so little about this country. While this may seem immediately suspicious (and certainly should, in light of the famine, starvation and harsh judiciary system which have been documented there over the last few decades), there are also plausible motives for this secrecy – the very nature of the DPRK, as the last bastion of the communist dream, is likely to leave them feeling isolated from the rest of the world, and wary of foreign interest.

I believe the truth of the matter is based on a little of each.

Anyway, thanks again for the comment, and I’m really glad you found the report interesting.

great article darmon.is anybody want to know more about DPRK read a mig-15 to freedom by Kum-Sok No.wartime north korean defector.This book describes much of the life in North korea

Thank you very much for the recommendation, Vikram – I’m really fascinated in learning more about first hand accounts of NK defectors, so this has definitely made my reading list!

Very nice article!

Thanks for the comment! I’m glad you liked it.

Oh deary me Brendan, it’s fortunate for the rest of us that you have so clearly been to North Korea, and not only that, you are an expert too! I can only assume that to be the case, as you obviously know more about the place than Mr Richter. Despite his admission that he wasn’t allowed into areas the government didn’t want him to see, you appear to believe that he is part of their propaganda machine. The article does state that his travel was restricted, and I think he does a fine job of getting across the feeling of global isolation experienced by the general populous. As for preferring the propaganda posters to advert billboards, he did state this was a personal preference, I look forward to reading your (no doubt, more accurate) analysis

^ What he said.

We should have sympathy and understanding for the North Korean people, not the government that oppresses them.

I completely agree.

But, this sympathy would be more useful if bolstered by an understanding of the socio-political factors which have led to the current situation… it needs to be accurate and supported by fact.

What would you suggest we do, send in the US military?

Personally, I feel that the solution will come through building greater understanding on both sides. I believe tourism is helpful, because the Koreans are constantly being brought into contact with foreigners who don’t seem to fit the stereotypes fed to them by government propaganda. Conversely, people like you need to stop getting all your ‘facts’ from VICE.

And are you seriously arguing that government propaganda is more pleasant than advertising? I don’t think you’d feel that way if you were being starved by your government and were forced to see “Great Leader!!” signs everywhere.

Define ‘pleasant’.

My actual words were: “Personally … I much prefer these simple, feel-good posters to the manipulative advertising which plasters Western cities…”

It’s an aesthetic preference, which I acknowledge that I am lucky enough to be able to enjoy in complete naivety.

How’s your Korean, Brendan? Because you realise that none of these signs actually say “Great Leader!” right? Aside from the portraits, the majority of slogans refer to the strength and purity of the Korean race. Motives aside, they’re aimed at making the people feel good about what they have.

3.5 million people starved by the North Korean military dictatorship, while they spent money erecting huge monuments for tourists such as yourself, importing more Henessey than any other nation, and bulking up their military to maintain control.

These are very real concerns, but you need to be more objective in your understanding of the facts.

* The 3.5 million is an estimate from outside sources, as the DPRK is unwilling to release actual figures. Whatever the number though, I agree that this is an atrocity.

* The vast majority of monuments were built long before tourists were welcome into the country, so you are failing to grasp their true purpose and significance.

* Kim Jong-il was the Hennessey drinker – and as you’ll note from my report above, I got the subtle impression that he is not remembered with the same deep love and respect that his father, the Eternal President Kim Il-sung is.

* While the DPRK has one of the largest militaries in the world (particularly when considered per capita), you should be aware that it branches into all walks of life; and so these figures also include the military building corps who erect schools and hospitals, as well as the localised militia who police traffic.

I genuinely sympathise with your concerns, and I’m only playing devil’s advocate here – but the point I’m making, is the importance of researching your claims more thoroughly in order to better understand the problem.

This comment has been removed by the author.

It’s a shame you deleted this comment Brendan, as it was my favourite. Luckily though, I have managed to salvage it from the email notification…

“You’re the kind of person who would’ve had a lavish dinner with Hitler, enjoyed some fine whiskey, and then declared that Germany was just misunderstood, and that the criticism is unwarranted. The Vice Guide to Travel took a very similar tour, and their outlook was totally different (and rational.)”

Aside from my initial concern that you seem to believe WWII-era Germany, as a whole, could be understood simply by looking at Hitler, I feel this comment also highlights the root of your misinformation.

VICE Magazine is not to be trusted.

In their report on North Korea, they claim that entry to the DPRK is near impossible, and that it took them a year and a half of negotiations to get a visa. In reality, there are around half a dozen tour agencies who would have issued them a visa with no more than a one-month wait. Seeing as their tour sounds almost identical to mine, I think they may have been exaggerating somewhat.

They also describe visiting a bar where every other patron was in the employ of the North Korean secret service, and put there to spy on them. Their evidence? A friend of a friend who works at the Financial Times told them so.

VICE don’t concern themselves with reporting facts; they tell colourful, sensational stories, designed to shock and entertain. I believe the result to be dangerous, as it pushes people away from a true understanding of global problems; instead breeding fear and ignorance.

It is certainly true that a lot of strange (and often unpleasant) things go on in the DPRK – but don’t forget that propaganda works both ways, and don’t believe every crazy, unsupported story you hear.

nunca escuche que alguien haya ido a ese pais. buena informacion 🙂

Muchas gracias!

North Korea is one of a mere handful of nations in the world that are regularly hammered by western media & western politicians yet was largely unaffected by US export of tainted blood products that led to the AIDS infection becoming a world phenomenon.

That’s an interesting point. The DPRK’s succession from global culture could certainly be argued to have its benefits at times; I agree that it’s worth considering the motives of those who actively look to damn the nation through media and political reports, rather than merely taking such information at face value.

I have nominated you for the Liebster Blog Award. http://dalecooper57.wordpress.com/

Dale, I’m flattered. Thank you.

It’s interesting stuff and very well presented by you, but it’s all somewhat inconclusive. You saw what they wanted you to see and didn’t show you what they didn’t want you to see. If things were all OK they probably shouldn’t have this problem with their own people crossing over to China, which is a a fellow Communist country. Thought provoking article. Well done.

…and isn’t that interesting in itself? This is the unfounded sense of paranoia I referred to in the article – you find yourself wondering how bad things could possibly be elsewhere, that they’re simply not prepared to let you see it.

Or, perhaps it really isn’t as bad as all that. Even if there are people going hungry in more remote areas of North Korea, I doubt it could be as bad as the situation in some African nations; or that their weak infrastructure is any worse than those in countries such as, for example, India.

It crossed my mind that perhaps North Korea feels as though what it shows to the world is taken not just as a statement about their own country, but will be used in forming a judgement on their whole political philosophy – and so they are desperate to make us see that such a system *could* work.

I have no idea what the truth is though, and my whole visit was massively thought provoking – I’m really glad that you got the same thing from reading my report.

Great article. Learned more about North Korea just now than I have ever thought to.

Thanks Christopher, that’s pretty much the highest praise I could have hoped to receive.

As ever, an eye opening account. Since we can’t be with you on your travels, we can rely on your fabulous powers of description to take us there. One of your very best reports so far.

Very kind of you to say so, Dale! I hope I can maintain the standard…

See all 66 comments on “A Tourist in Pyongyang: My First Impressions on Visiting North Korea”

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N. Korea-China ties may pick up momentum with Zhao Leji's Pyongyang visit: ministry

N Korea-China-ties

SEOUL, April 11 (Yonhap) -- The unification ministry said Thursday the planned visit of China's top legislator, Zhao Leji, to North Korea this week may bring about a full-fledged recovery in their bilateral relations following the COVID-19 pandemic.

Zhao plans to visit North Korea from Thursday through Saturday to attend celebrative events on the occasion of the 75th anniversary of their establishment of diplomatic ties, according to announcements made by both countries.

High-level exchanges between North Korea and China, its longtime ally and largest economic benefactor, have practically ceased since Pyongyang's pandemic-related border lockdown and amid its deepening military cooperation with Moscow.

"There is a possibility that North Korea-China relations may progress in earnest on the occasion of the year of friendship," a ministry official told reporters.

The official said "various exchanges" are expected to take place, when asked if Zhao's planned trip could be part of preparations for a possible summit between North Korean leader Kim Jong-un and Chinese President Xi Jinping.

Kim and Xi last held two rounds of summits in 2019 -- in Beijing in January and in Pyongyang in June.

The official noted the need to see whether Zhao's trip could lay the groundwork for the longtime allies to recover their exchanges in tangible forms, such as the complete reopening of their borders and the resumption of tourism for Chinese civilians.

North Korea appears to be stepping up high-level exchanges with Beijing, as much as it has been expanding its relationship with Russia, including military cooperation.

In January, Chinese Vice Foreign Minister Sun Weidong visited Pyongyang and met with North Korean Foreign Minister Choe Son-hui in a move widely seen as a reciprocal trip after the North's Vice Foreign Minister Pak Myong-ho visited China in December.

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