trek 610 frame

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Nicholas'/Fabian's Traveling Trek 610

Leave an old life behind to go ride bikes - at this point it’s a well-worn trope in the cycling community. I had spent a decade on the corporate grind trying to follow the idealized American path - college, work, marriage, buy a house, etc… My wife and I looked around one day and thought we’d try something else: sell everything and use the money to slow travel through Europe and South America, working on our language skills, meeting people, making friends, and decompressing from our previously suffocating corporate existence. She would do so through the lens of art as a watercolor painter, while I would take this journey on my bike - both metaphorically and literally. 

I had treated myself to a new fully-integrated carbon superbike just a few months before we made the decision to upend our lives. In retrospect, the purchase was a desperate grasp for dopamine via retail therapy, and happily the subsequent re-arrangement of my life solved the problem on a more fundamental level. Nevertheless, the hydraulics, tubeless, easily bent disc rotors, and integrated cable routing wasn’t going to be ideal or affordable for a travel bike. Of course there were all the other bikes - a lugged Columbus SL Schwinn with 9 speed Dura-Ace and a polished VO cranket. A 1992 Trek Multitrack with GRX 400 and a VO 2-piece stem, and the old CX beater, but none of them seemed quite right for a true travel all-arounder. I had no idea what I would encounter on this adventure but the social aspect was essential, so in addition to being an all-road explorer and light tourer, the bike also had to function as a fast club racer.

There is irony in adding another bike while I was doing my best Marie Kondo for the rest of my life, but n+1 always rules, so I set about searching the local co-ops, Craigslist and Marketplace. Knowing very little about the roads, bike shops, and mechanics I might have access to, I thought it would be a good idea to keep the bike dead simple, easily serviceable, and compatible with as many parts as possible. I have always loved steel bikes, so when this Trek 610 popped up on my local Craigslist a few weeks after the big decision, I went to check it out immediately. Handmade in Waterloo, Wisconsin in 1984, it features slightly stretched touring geometry, a Reynolds 531 frame, excellent graphics and paint, and room for some 33c tires on 700c rims (owing to the original 27” wheels.)  I could see it becoming the perfect all-road bike, willing to carry me on gravel quests or over fire roads and singletrack in search of adventure, but truly at home ripping broken asphalt or conquering Andean passes. Bonus points for being handmade in the USA - despite my general lack of patriotism, there was something poetic about escaping the country with a classic American bike.

The build would be guided by principles of simplicity, serviceability, and cost. I had no desire to find out if 12-speed chains or AXS batteries were available in a small town in Ecuador, and I have enough trouble with bottom brackets stateside that I wanted to avoid anything I couldn’t service myself.

Most bits came from my parts bin, ebay, and the local bike co-op where I had been volunteering. Even then I couldn’t resist a couple indulgences. The HED Belgium rims suited the intended use of the bike perfectly and lent some credibility to what is otherwise verging on a ratbike. A Velo Orange two-bolt quill stem keeps it classy when seen with the original Shimano 600 brakes, and allowed me to mount my preferred gravel bar with the 31.8mm clamp.

It’s pretty much all downhill from there though. I scrounged some beat shifters from eBay, a 9-speed rear mech, and a front derailleur from the murky depths of Shimano’s low-end offerings (total cost: $38.) I reused the Tange loose ball bottom bracket which was original to the frame paired with a square taper FSA 50/34 crankset from the co-op parts bin. Velo Orange also provided key parts to get the old frame working with new-ish components including down tube cable stop, cables, and a classic bell to mount on the stem. 

We started our adventure in Sicily where I had contacted a local guide to ask about route recommendations. In true Sicilian fashion, he responded that they had a camp coming up, that I must attend, there would be beer and grilling, and he absolutely would not take no for an answer. I got some funny looks on the first day, the Trek standing out amidst all the carbon superbikes. That said, there was no snobbery and in fact quite a few compliments on the classic silver parts and Reynolds frame. The camp was an amazing intro to my new lifestyle and chance to deeply get to know the new bike. We did around 9000 m of elevation in 5 days, riding around the skirt of Mt. Etna and on the final day summiting along the route that Stage 4 of the Giro would follow hours later. At no point did the Trek falter, even on Day 2 hammering on a wet descent at 80km/h just to stay warm after being caught in a rain-snow mix on one of Etna’s lower summits. 

This was all new to me - I had never really cycled outside of the United States before, let alone in a foreign country with a different language and different rules. Following the camp I had to go it alone, and started exploring the numerous backroads, gravel tracks, and seemingly infinite routes up Etna. The Trek always happily carried me wherever I wanted to go, both around Sicily and for the rest of the year as we moved to a new country every 2-3 months. 

In Cuenca, Ecuador, I rode to the 4200m summit of Cajas National Park from both the road and gravel side and explored every river valley and gravel track disappearing into the clouds. I was welcomed on fire road MTB group rides, and took on hammer-and-tongs 2000m+ outings with the local road clubs.  I did a local road race through the Andes outside Cuenca, on open roads with vaguely enforced rolling closures. I’ll never forget trading pulls in the chase group (Elite Ecuadorian men are, unsurprisingly, very fast) while getting gap times from a moto with a chalkboard. The whole experience channeling post-war Euro race vibes dodging livestock, tractors, and street dogs, enduring random gravel segments on a vintage steel bike.

In Mendoza, Argentina, I followed the route of the mountain stages of the Vuelta San Juan, past the hills West of the city to Potrerillos, Punto del Inca and beyond. On long, hot rides through the vineyards, I tested my legs against the wine and meat hangovers as much as the terrain, the Trek always there, gliding along joyously as only vintage steel can do. 

In Santiago, Chile I found bike heaven on Cerro San Cristobal and the hills around it - the green lung of the city and a cyclist playground closed to cars. Seemingly endless loops of intertwining well-surfaced asphalt roads, gravel tracks and downhill MTB trails garland the peak that sits directly next to downtown Santiago’s cluster of skyscrapers. Every weekend the cerro transforms into a spontaneous festival for thousands of cyclists of all types. Every weekday morning it is a training camp for the devoted to test and train themselves against the 250m climb. 

On New Year’s Day in Santiago, I went to a meetup for a chill gravel ride organized by a local shop. Happily several other attendees were sporting cool vintage bikes and we made fast friends while circumnavigating Cerro San Cristobal including some memorable hike-a-bike and enduro segments. A few days later I was messaging on Instagram with one of the people I met, a young kid named Fabian. He wanted to get into ultracycling, bikepacking and touring and thought a frame like mine might be a good way to get started. Even as the most developed country in South America, new gravel and touring bikes are still shockingly expensive in Chile, especially for a college student. We were chatting about tire clearance, standards, other good models of old steel bikes to look for, amongst the other minutiae that retrogrouches (no matter our age) are apt to discuss. Ultimately, I decided to just give him the bike when I left Santiago in late January. I had thought about selling him the frame but considering what I paid and what it was worth, the $200 didn’t seem worthwhile to potentially violate Chilean imported goods law. 

Despite my absolute adoration of vintage bikes, the truth was I needed a slightly more modern and robust bike to continue my travels. I was so much stronger since leaving my sedentary life and desk job behind and riding nearly every day that I was nearing the Trek’s limits. Feeling the frame flex under a town-line sprint on a fast club ride or groan as I hauled my empanada and Haribo stuffed carcass up a 20% gravel gradient had me convinced a Ritchey or a VO Rando (if only they would ever release it!) was in my future. Fabian is the same height as me but must be 10kg lighter, so the small-diameter tubing, triple-butted Reynolds 531 frame suits him perfectly. The timing was perfect as well - Santiago marked nearly a year of travel, so our next stop was the USA to visit family before continuing the adventure. This would give me a chance to find a new frame and replacements for what parts I didn’t leave with Fabian.

The day before I was to leave Chile, Fabian came to pick up the bike. His mother had driven him and the three of us chatted in the lobby of my apartment building, their heavy Chilean accent stretching the limits of my Spanish abilities. In between having my cheeks pinched (by his mom, not Fabian) and offers of fabulous desserts and home-cooked meals should I return to Chile, I gathered that his mom was perhaps more excited for this bike than Fabian. She reveled in the opportunity to see her son so happy. Their shared enthusiasm and the utter wholesomeness of the situation eased any lingering worries I had about parting with my trusty companion for the past 9000 km of adventure.

In the end, the bike passed from me to him like it was meant to be, providing a fitting end to six months of adventure and discovery in South America. I have fond memories of so many rides, places, and scenery, but what I’ll remember more are the connections I made. This last gesture of friendship and goodwill, borne of a shared love of cycling, perfectly encapsulated the spirit of travel that I was looking for when my wife and I first set out on this adventure. I love to daydream of the epic Chilean fondos, ultras and bikepacking adventures the Trek will take Fabian on, which is what I imagine the builder had in mind way back in 1984 when they first put flame to silver in a small barn in Wisconsin.

Postscript:

I was in Santiago this (first) time in December 2022 and January 2023. Writing this now, I’ve returned to Santiago and had a chance to meet up with Fabian and even take a spin on the Trek. If this story wins the gift certificate it has to go to Fabian for some VO Grand Cru brakes.

Build List:

Frame: 1984 Trek 610, Reynolds 531c Tubeset

Headset: Stronglight 1" Threaded

Bottom Bracket: Tange Precision Loose Ball

Crankset: FSA Vero Square Taper 50/34 

Rear Mech: Shimano Alivio 9sp

Front Mech: Claris 2x

Levers: Shimano 2x9 Tiagra

Brakes: Shimano 600 Long-Reach

Stem: Velo Orange Quill 2 bolt

Bars: FSA Adventure Compact

Saddle: Terry Ti Fly

Pedals: SPD PD-M520

Wheels: HED Belgium + front/ HED Belgium C2 rear with PowerTap Pro Power Meter

Road Tires: Schwalbe Pro One Tubed 32c

Gravel Tires: Schwalbe X-One Speed 33c

Cassette: 9 sp 11-36

Chain: KMC 9-Speed

Cables: Velo Orange

Brake Pads: Kool Stop

Bar Tape: ZIPP Service Course

Downtube Cable Stop: Velo Orange

Bell: Velo Orange Brass Striker Bell

Though there are no “major” VO parts on this bike, keeping these kinds of vintage frames rolling and able to be updated with modern components would simply not be possible without VO. Just the VO stem alone lent an air of class and credibility to what was otherwise just a badly abused (but well loved) rat bike. In January of 2023 when I left Santiago, the VO Rando still wasn’t released so I ended up with a used All City Mr. Pink from eBay. What sold me on the bike? The VO Grand Cru brakes it came with. 

Thanks for sharing such a beautiful story, Nicholas.

In a world full of disposable goods, seeing a bicycle having a second life with you, and a third life with Fabian is a great lesson on sustainability.

You should win the prize!

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Bike rebuild: a 1984/2014 Trek 610/105

In the summer of 2007, not long after I moved to Denver, I bought a used Trek 610 road bike off of Craigslist. A little research showed it was a 1984 model, with a frame of Reynolds 531 steel and a nice set of Shimano 600 (Ultegra) components.

It was already 23 years old and it was well loved. The finish was scratched all over, but it was solid and straight and a really good bike.

I rode it in this nearly stock condition for about a year. Then I bought a Brooks B17 saddle, a taller seatpost, nicer handlebars, and a new stem. I also installed a set of fenders. The result was a nice comfortable riding position and clean clothes, at the cost of some weight and speed. I kept riding the bike like that for several years, and I loved it.

Eventually though the frustrating Maillard Helicomatic hub 1 started to give out. There was a huge amount of play in the hub, and the bike was hard to shift. And since parts and tools to work on those old hubs are hard to come by I decided to buy new wheels instead. I ordered a set of heavy but lovely hand-built wheels from Thill wheels . It was relatively new 8 speed technology but aesthetically they matched the rest of the bike almost perfectly.

But things went bad on the Fourth of July. I was on a long 40 mile ride from my house out to the Aurora reservoir, on unfamiliar trails. I got to a section of trail that was under a few inches of water. I thought it was just a short section, and that I could just ride through it slowly with my fenders. It was actually well underwater, about 6 inches deep, and had a sandy bottom. I couldn’t keep going, and I had a slow motion fall into the water as I failed to unclip from my pedals.

I thought I was just wet and muddy, but the fall bent my derailer hanger and I didn’t notice. The bike kept going just fine and I kept riding. But on a hard uphill climb on a busy road 10 miles from home suddenly everything went very wrong. I was in the lowest gear, off the saddle, pedalling hard. I heard a terrible noise and felt something very very wrong happen in the back of the bike.

Between a bent derailer hanger, a hard climb, and a fairly flexible frame the rear derailer had made best friends with half the spokes on the right side of my rear wheel. The derailer itself was destroyed. The rear wheel was unrideable. I had to phone a friend and get a ride home on a holiday afternoon.

After that I let the bike sit. I thought about trying to rebuild the rear wheel, then I thought about buying a new wheel. But what I actually did was ride my old Schwinn single speed for months instead. Then I bought the Raleigh Tamland in September.

But I love my old Trek too much to let it sit dead forever.

Instead I ordered a complete set of 11-speed Shimano 105 components and compatible wheels and rebuilt the bike from the frame up. The parts and tools I needed arrived over three days, and I spent much of last Saturday building the bike. I took my time and walked through the whole process carefully, using the Shimano dealer manuals for reference. The brakes didn’t work with the frame—recessed nuts and not enough reach—but I expected that. I wouldn’t have bought them if it wasn’t a package deal, and I have a nice set of Tektro long-reach brakes I reused instead.

But other than that I’m kind of amazed how I was able to install a set of 2014 parts on a steel frame from 1984. 30 years of bike development and changes, but the basics are still the same.

The build took me about 5 hours, and after a run and lunch I managed to get in one test ride on Saturday afternoon before the sun set. The bike feels amazing. It’s not a magic night and day change from the old bike, but everything is just slightly better. I feel like an old friend is back. The look is a little modern on the old frame, but since I bought silver components it still looks good.

The only issue I have, which was apparent on the faster sections of my ride, is getting the cable tension right for the front derailer. The kit didn’t come with barrel adjusters, probably because it assumed the bike would have them on the downtube stops or that whoever was building the bike would know what to do. I didn’t think about it, and so I didn’t have one ready. I tried moving the downtube clamp I was using to increase cable tension but all I managed to do was crease the downtube when I overtightened it. I think it’ll be OK, but I feel bad about that.

And now winter is moving in, so I may not get much time to ride it. But I’m still happy I spent the time to rebuild.

— Steve

In the words of Sheldon Brown: “The Helicomatic was a nice idea on paper, but poorly executed. These hubs are losers.”  ↩

Posted on 10 November 2014

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Vintage 1984 Trek 610 Road Bike

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Trek 610 – Restoration

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TREK 600 Series

This project started as a trashed bike lingering at a local shop. Many of the parts had been cannibalized for other projects. After stripping the frame and brazing on down tube shifter bosses it was repainted with PPG epoxy primer, PPG Omni plus Brilliant white base coat and Platinum Ice Pearl paint. Custom Velocals decals were added and then clear coated with 5 coats of PPG Deltron 3000 2 part clear. All parts were rebuilt and hand polished to a brilliant or mirror finish.

Frame: 60 cm 1984 Reynolds 531 TREK 610 frame hand built in Waterloo Wisconsin. The down tube bosses were added to this frame for this rebuild

Fork/Headset: Tange 1 Chrome fork, This is an upgrade from the original fork for this bike. and is in great shape. It was on the bike when I bought it. A new TANGE Levine CDS JIS 1" Headset replaced the rusted junk that was on it.

Crankset/Bottom Bracket: Shimano Tapered sealed bearing BB with Shimano 600 Tricolor 175mm Cranks with aftermarket Blue anodized dust caps

Pedals: Vintage Shimano SPD Road bike pedals

Drivetrain/Cog/Chainring/Chain: Shimano Hyperglide 11/26 8 speed cassette Shimano 53, 38 chain rings and a new Shimano chain

Derailleurs/Shifters: Refurbished / Rebuilt Shimano 600 Tricolor 8 speed rear and Shimano 600 Tricolor double front derailleurs. Refurbished / Rebuilt Shimano 600 Tricolor 8 speed combination Brake / shifters. Shimano Down tube cable stops/adjusters

Handlebars/Stem: Refurbished Cinelli 1R 100 mm stem, and Cinelli 40 cm Giro Italia Bars wrapped in deep blue Serfas bar tape with silicone bar pads underneath for comfort.

Saddle/Seatpost: Refurbished Vintage Shimano 600 27.2 Aero seat post and SDG Galaxy Classic Saddle.

Brakes: New Shimano R650 Ultegra Dual pivot mid reach brakes with Shimano pads.

Front Wheel/Hub/Tire: Shimano RX1000 hub laced on to Mavic CX-12 Semi-aero rim, Serfas 700c x 25 SECA black/blue tires

Rear Wheel/Hub/Tire: Shimano RX1000 hub laced on to Mavic CX-12 Semi-aero rim. Serfas 700c x 25 SECA black/blue tires

Accessories: Planet Bike Blue anodized bottle cage

More Info: This Trek 600 series bike was originally out fitted with early Shimano 600 components. My goal was to update this classic bike with more modern and safer components. The updated 600 tricolor group fit perfectly and runs as smooth as the day it was made. I now understand why these bikes are so coveted by collectors. it is amazingly smooth and stable at speed.

Added about 9 years ago by Velodoc505 . Last updated about 9 years ago.

tommy1986 says:

Really appreciate your craftsmanship here man... Beautiful job. Please check out my Tsunoda road bike restoration with before and after pics from a few years earlier than yours.

Posted about 9 years ago

50voltphantom says:

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58cm trek road frame size

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What size rider is the 58cm aluminum or carbon frame for? (height, inseam) I am 5'11 with 34" inseam and 33" shirt length.  

I'am 5'10" with 32" inseam and ride a 56cm  

Just remember, Trek sizes their road bikes funny, so looking at TT length is more important/most accurate way to size up the bike. I'm 6' and would ride either a 58 or 60 cm trek, fwiw....  

funny for sure I am 5 feet 8 & 1/2 inches (173cm) and ride 54cm Madone with 100mm stem. My cycling inseam 83cm (32.6 inches). You might need 56cm (good flexibility, big saddle to bar drop?) or 58cm depending on your flexibility i.e. saddle to bar drop and saddle height required. Trek Madone and 5000 series road bicycles geometry suit well people with proportionally short legs (i.e. short cycling inseam) and long upper bodies and longer arms. It also helps if you have above average back flexibility to tolerate a decent saddle to bar drop. This is comparing to other brands of road bicycles with sloping or semi-sloping geometries. Trek Madone/5000 head tube and seat tube are short in relation to their top tube. Have a look at the geometry specs, if not already have. Then look at say Specialized Roubaix or Look 565/585 or Pinarello or Colnago etc geometry in the same frame size. So if you are not one of short legs and long upper body and of decent flexibility than I recommend you buy a different geometry bike or ride like I do with lots of spacers (I have 40mm) and zero-degree or a + flipped up stem. It does not seem to detract from the Madone performance but it does look goofy like you are trying to fit your bike and not the other way around. Alternative is to get one size up frame which means not a lot of spacers but a very short stem of 80-90mm instead of 100-120mm standard stem length. Either way will look odd - lots of spacers on smaller frame or short stem on larger frame. BTW there was a rumour circulating that Lance liked the Madone geometry so Trek kept it. I would too! For 2008 model year I would not be at all surprized to see Madone adopting a semi-sloping top tube like 90% of the others road bicycle makers have. But I digressed, sorry. Good luck with your decision. Stay upright.  

acid_rider said: Trek Madone and 5000 series road bicycles geometry suit well people with proportionally short legs (i.e. short cycling inseam) and long upper bodies and longer arms. It also helps if you have above average back flexibility to tolerate a decent saddle to bar drop. Click to expand...

Fit formulae Here is a link to a description of how to buy the right frame size: http://www.coloradocyclist.com/bikefit/ There have been lots of these "What size Trek should I buy?" posts on RBR. Every one gets some replies from guys that think that bike frames should be purchased based on either top tube lenght or even sillier, head tube length. This is nonsense. The size of a frame IS THE LENGTH OF THE SEAT TUBE. Madonnes do have a little bit longer top tube and wider bars than older racing frames did. You will like this. Remember that you can move the seat back and forth quite a lot and move the bars up and down quite easily to get a good fit but it's impossible to change the seat tube length if you get the wrong frame size. Rarely, a few unusual riders have to use a different stem than the one you get with the bike. These are great bikes. Buy one.  

Tlaloc said: Here is a link to a description of how to buy the right frame size: http://www.coloradocyclist.com/bikefit/ There have been lots of these "What size Trek should I buy?" posts on RBR. Every one gets some replies from guys that think that bike frames should be purchased based on either top tube lenght or even sillier, head tube length. This is nonsense. The size of a frame IS THE LENGTH OF THE SEAT TUBE. Madonnes do have a little bit longer top tube and wider bars than older racing frames did. You will like this. Remember that you can move the seat back and forth quite a lot and move the bars up and down quite easily to get a good fit but it's impossible to change the seat tube length if you get the wrong frame size. Rarely, a few unusual riders have to use a different stem than the one you get with the bike. These are great bikes. Buy one. Click to expand...

There have been lots of these "What size Trek should I buy?" posts on RBR. Every one gets some replies from guys that think that bike frames should be purchased based on either top tube lenght or even sillier, head tube length. This is nonsense. The size of a frame IS THE LENGTH OF THE SEAT TUBE. Madonnes do have a little bit longer top tube and wider bars than older racing frames did. You will like this. Remember that you can move the seat back and forth quite a lot and move the bars up and down quite easily to get a good fit but it's impossible to change the seat tube length if you get the wrong frame size. Rarely, a few unusual riders have to use a different stem than the one you get with the bike. Dude, you're nuts. You definately fit a bike based on top tube length. And moving the saddle forward and back a lot? So much for placing the knee over the pedal spindle... So do you also decide if a bike fits based on your standover? OK, well let me take a small step back... There are a lot of determining factors when deciding on fit, but because manufacturers often use different methods of measuring seat tubes, and as acid-rider mentioned above, sloping TT's also screw up that method. TT length gives you the most accurate method of comparison between different frames.  

acid_rider said: ... Madone seat tubes are shorter than comparable size other frames. i.e. if you measure seat tube length of Madone 54cm you will find it is shorter C-C that a 53-54cm seat tube of most other brands... Click to expand...

Doesn't matter how they size up/measure your frame.. What matters is if you try it and fit it well. BUT, yes, the Madones do have a slightly longer top tube. I'm 5'9" with a 32 inch inseam (approx.) and ride a 54cm Madone SSL with 20mm spacers (might reduce it) and about 8-10cm of saddle to bar drop and a 110mm stem FWIW. With that, I initially had some back and neck pain when I first rode the bike(with a 90mm stem) but as time went by, everything worked out and I'm loving my ride in terms of fit, quality and everything. So, to the OP, just well, try out say a 56, 58 and maybe 60 cm Trek, depending on your height and all that. FWIW, I can fit a 58cm Trek as well (tried a friend's bike). Good luck  

I'm 6' with a 34" pants inseam, 34" shirt sleeve length. I ride a 60cm Madone, but could ride a 58cm if i wanted to use more steerer tube spacers. Sounds like 58cm is a good fit for you. On the Madone's, the seattube is kind of weird in that it actually toward front of the bb shell vs center. Do not know about their alum. bikes.  

here's m58cm for reference  

uzziefly said: I could fit that! Lower saddle height though. Click to expand...

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