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Elaborately contorted and sprawling into the sea, Sumbawa is all volcanic ridges, terraced rice fields, dry expanses and sheltered bays. Though well connected to Bali and Lombok, it's a very different sort of place – far less developed, mostly very dry, much poorer, extremely conservative and split between two distinct peoples. Those who speak Sumbawanese probably reached the west of the island from Lombok, while Bimanese speakers dominate the Tambora Peninsula and the east. Although Sumbawa is an overwhelmingly Islamic island, in remote parts underground adat (traditional law and lore) still thrives.

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Larger than Bali and Lombok combined, Sumbawa’s contorted form is the result of violent volcanic explosions. Until fairly recently, there were only two reasons to visit this little-known island: to hire a boat from Sape in the east heading for Komodo National Park or to catch a big wave on its west or southeast coasts. Improved air service to Labuanbajo , Flores , where the sailing to Komodo is much easier and prettier, has negated the first reason, leaving surfing as the island’s biggest tourism attraction. The breaks at Hu’u attract surfers worldwide, and sunsets on clear evenings are absolutely stunning.

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When islanders say ‘Sumbawa’, they mean the western part of the island. The east is simply called ‘Bima’. The influence of Javanese culture and Hindu-Buddhism was only ever limited here, and today most Sumbawans are fairly conservative Muslims: visitors should wear respectful attire away from the beaches.

It was Gunung Tambora (Mount Tambora) that isolated the people of the west from the Bimanese for centuries. So separate are they that the native language of the Sumbawanese is more akin to those of the Balinese and the Lombok Sasaks, while the Bima language is more like those of Flores and Sumba.

There are other things to do and see in Sumbawa besides the surf. The rich and famous use part of Pulau Moyo, off the north coast, as a remote luxury getaway.

Moyo is also a nature reserve protecting forests and wildlife, and there are two waterfalls presenting rugged trekking opportunities. The mighty Gunung Tambora provides off-the-beaten-track trekking, and there are megaliths believed to be related to those in Sumba.

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Some of the best surf in the world can be found off the coast of Sumbawa but there are plenty of things to do on the island. Non-surfers can trek through forests, snorkel off the south coast of Pulau Moyo or view ancient stone sarcophagi.

#1 Surf at Hu'u Beach

Due south of Dompu is Hu’u. Better known amongst surfers as ‘lakeys’, it offers superlative waves on the outlying reefs at Periscopes, Nangas, Lakey Peak, Lakey Pipe, and Cobblestones.

The main beach in front of the Lakey Peak surf break has beautiful white sand, and at low tide, there is good reef walking. Swimming and snorkelling are possible in small inlets.

#2 See large stone sarcophagi at Batu Tering

The hills east of Sumbawa Besar contain large stone sarcophagi, carved in low relief with human forms and crocodiles.

Batu Tering, about 29km (18 miles) south of Sumbawa Besar, has megaliths said to be the royal tombs of ancient chiefs of a Neolithic culture that thrived about 2,000 years ago.

About 2km (1.25 miles) beyond is Liang Petang (Dark Cave), with stalactites and stalagmites resembling humans and weaving looms.

#3 See the waterfalls of Palau Moyo

Travelling west from Sumbawa Besar brings you to Pulau Moyo. Two-thirds of the island is a game reserve to protect the island’s deer, banteng wild ox, 21 bat species and wild boars.

The flora here ranges from savannah to dense jungle containing teak, tamarind and banyan trees. There are two waterfalls; the one near Labuan Aji village is an easier trek.

South of the island the water is crystal clear and the reefs undisturbed, ideal for snorkellers and divers, with a white-sand beach opposite the island at Tanjung Manis.

#4 Climb Gunung Tambora

Serious trekkers may want to ascend Gunung Tambora. In 1815, some 100 cu km (25 cu miles) of debris were ejected into the atmosphere with a force equivalent to that of several hydrogen bombs, creating ‘the year without summer’ in 1816.

Located on the northern peninsula of Sumbawa, the gaping, 2,821-metre (9,250ft) high caldera offers spectacular views on a clear day. The ascent begins at Calabai, a small logging town on the coast. It is a very difficult three-day climb and a guide is essential.

#5 Watch a pencak silat (martial arts) performance at Bima

At Bima, if there is a festival going on, you may catch pencak silat (martial arts) and other dance performances at the sultan’s palace.

At the pasar (local market), you’ll see women wearing colourful headscarves that are unique to this region; unmarried women must cover everything except their eyes.

There are several traditional villages in the hills east of Bima, where traces of pre-Islamic belief systems endure. Donggo is the main settlement. Women here still weave indigo cloth, from which they make their traditional clothing.

#6 Spend the day at Sekongkang beach

On the west coast from Taliwang south to Sekongkang beach (familiarly called Yo-Yo’s), the scenic coastline has superb white-sand beaches.

There is prime surfing at Scar Reef near Jereweh, at Supersucks near Maluk, and at Yo-Yo’s on the south coast.

As a surfing magnet, travellers tend to stay around the best breaks in Sumbawa, though accommodation on the island is somewhat basic unless you're staying at Pulau Moyo.

Close to some of the best breaks, Maluk and neighbouring Benete have a number of budget hotels that cater to surfers.

There is a handful of cheap, chilled guesthouses near this famous surf spot.

The rich and famous use part of Pulau Moyo, off the north coast, as a remote luxury getaway.

The city of Bima has a number of non-award-winning hotels that cater to backpackers and businesspeople.

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There are no Michelin stars to be found in Sumbawa, instead the best restaurants tend to be warungs selling Indonesian food. Some of the surfing spots sell Western food like burgers and pizzas. There is nearly no nightlife on the island, most will visit a night market.

Rumah Makan Sabar Subur, Bima Popular with the locals, the bandeng goreng (grilled fish and rice) at this clean, cheap warung is the pick of the menu.

Wreck, Lakey Beach As the name suggests, this restaurant has made the most of a beached boat that sells Indonesian and Western food. It's the Mexican-style fajitas and burritos that keep people lingering, though.

Aneka Rasa Jaya, Sumbawa Besar Some of the best seafood served on the island comes from this Chinese restaurant. Get the squid or the scallops in Szechuan sauce.

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Most people get to Sumbawa by boat from Lombok or Flores, though domestic flights serve the island as well. These are the best ways to get to Sumbawa:

Most travellers will arrive by boat. There are ferries from both Flores and Lombok to Sumbawa.

Sumbawa has domestic airports in Bima and Sumbawa Besar, which receive flights from Flores, Lombok, and other nearby islands.

To do Sumbawa justice, look to spend between 3-5 days here. From ancient spiritual sites and bustling markets to glorious beaches and volcanic landscapes, there’s much to explore.

Firmly on your urban itinerary should be the 17th-century Sultan Salahuddin Mosque and Sumbawa Besar Night Market. When heading further afield, tick off Benete Beach, known for its beautiful white sand and clear water, and Hu'u Beach, for surfing.

In the other direction, Tangga Batu Beach is popular for snorkelling and swimming. For a well-rounded trip, juxtapose sandy beach life with excursions to traditional villages; Sumbawa Kecil is a small, rural village that offers visitors a glimpse into the traditional way of life on Sumbawa Island.

The village is known for its traditional houses, which are built from bamboo and thatched roofs, and for its friendly locals.

Also worthy of a visit is Kampung Adat Wera. Here, see local people making traditional handicrafts such as weaving and pottery.

Elongate your trip to Sumbawa with a hike to the summit of Mount Tambora. Trekking here can be challenging but rewarding - it is an active volcano with a beautiful crater lake – and typically takes around 2-3 days to complete.

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Getting around Sumbawa can at times be challenging, but the main highway – which runs from Taliwang (near the west coast) across to Sape (east coast) – is in pretty good nick.

Having your own wheels is exceptionally helpful when navigating Sumbara. The best way to hire a car tends to be through your hotel.

By motorbike

Several rental agencies in the larger towns offer motorbikes for rent at reasonable rates.

Long-distance buses serve the major towns across the island.

By bemos (minibus)

Bemos are usually cheap, but they can be crowded and uncomfortable – especially for longer journeys.

The best time to visit Sumbawa is during the dry season, which runs from May to October. During this time, the weather is generally dry and sunny, making it ideal for trekking and beach life. If you’re coming for the surf, catch the best waves from April to October.

It's important to note that Sumbawa is a tropical destination and even during the dry season, there may still be occasional rainfall, so it's always a good idea to pack a rain jacket or umbrella just in case.

The rainy season typically runs from November to April. During this time, heavy rainfall and high humidity can make outdoor activities difficult and some areas can become inaccessible due to flooding or landslides. Some businesses and tourist attractions close during this time.

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Home » Travel Guides » Indonesia » 15 Best Places to Visit in Sumbawa (Indonesia)

15 Best Places to Visit in Sumbawa (Indonesia)

Sumbawa is located in sunny West Nusa Tenggara in Indonesia and is separated from neighboring Lombok by the Strait of Alas. It is separated from Komodo Island by the Sape Strait and has the Indian Ocean on its south side and the Flores Sea on the north. Sumbawa is the largest island in West Nusa Tenggara and is blessed with an array of spectacular scenery including its crowning glory in the form of Mount Tambora which also happens to be a still-active volcano.

Other attractions in Sumbawa include its turquoise waters and sandy beaches, and anyone who likes diving or snorkeling won’t leave disappointed. It is also one of the hidden gems of the Indonesian surf scene, so if you are looking for a place to bring your board then look no further than Sumbawa. This part of Indonesia is often not well visited by travelers, but those who travel down this far will find an engaging local culture that is quite different from other parts of the country coupled with a relaxed and serene beachside atmosphere.

Let’s explore the best places to visit in Sumbawa :

1. Poto Tano

Poto Tano is one of the main tourist areas in Sumbawa although that still doesn’t mean that it is very busy.

It is also the gateway to Sumbawa as you can take a ferry across from Lombok which will take you to Poto Tano.

Although it’s a port town Poto Tano is one of the prettiest of its kind in Indonesia and you will find the town surrounded by jade green hills and emerald waters which means that it is a hit with any photographers looking to get some souvenir snaps.

In between the sandy beaches here you will also find rambling areas of virgin rainforest and on a clear day you can see across to might Mount Rinjani on Lombok.

2. Kenawa Island

Kenawa Island in Sumbawa is not to be confused with Kenawa Island in Flores.

Whatever its name however it is one of the most beautiful places in Sumbawa and you will find acres of fluffy sand and elegant grass lands.

The island is uninhabited and stretches for around 15 hectares, but you can come here on a day trip and enjoy the snorkeling off shore with a high chance of seeing starfish, sea horses, crabs, and a wealth of other colorful aquatic life.

If you want to stay a little longer on Kenawa Island then you can camp here overnight as part of an organized tour which is the highlight of a trip to Sumbawa for many visitors.

Lakey is one of the top surf spots in Sumbawa and all along the coastline here you will find a range of good surf breaks which are famous with expatriate surfers and those in the know.

One of the other plus points of Lakey is that, because it sees a range of travelers, it is more developed for visitors and you can find some solid dining options here and you will even find a few beach bars.

As a result, if it’s your first time to Sumbawa and you want to ease in gently, this is one of the best spots to choose.

4. Moyo Island

Around two kilometers to the north of the main island of Sumbawa is Moyo Island.

The island is the home of the Moyo Island National Park which tells you everything you need to know about the famed natural beauty of the region.

The coral reefs in particular are spectacular here so if you like diving you are in for a treat.

Back on land, you can trek through the park and there is a good chance of seeing wild boars and lizards.

Moyo Island is also famous for having over 20 different kinds of bats, so nature lovers should make sure to swing by here on a visit to Sumbawa.

5. Jereweh Waterfall

Sumbawa is an island covered in waterfalls and one of the most stunning of them all is Jereweh Waterfall.

Rather confusingly, the waterfall is sometimes referred to as Ai Koa Waterfall or Janup Waterfall and it is one of the most interesting cataracts in Indonesia as the falls are set in a staircase formation which means that the water here spurts down the mountainside in jagged bursts.

Jereweh Waterfall is located outside of Taliwang which happens to be the capital of West Sumbawa and is a must-visit attraction if you are in the area.

Make sure to check out the towering trees here with their thick roots that wrap around the surrounding rocks.

6. Ai Manis Beach

Ai Manis Beach is a favorite for travelers to Sumbawa and is located on wider Moyo Island.

One of the main reasons to come here is to enjoy the underwater extravaganza that Ai Manis Beach provides and you will find colorful coral reefs and a variety of cute underwater critters.

The beach is also surrounded by forests which are home to wild pigs and deer, so if you decide to stay on land you will still find plenty to see here.

7. The Old Palace of Dalam Loka

Located on the second largest island in Sumbawa which is Sumbawa Besar, the palace of the former sultan of Sumbawa is a great pick if you want to learn a little more about the history of this area.

The palace dates from 1885 and would have been built in the time of Muhammad Jalaluddin Shah III who was the 16th sultan of the Dewa Dalam Bawa Dynasty.

The palace is still a rather impressive affair and is made of wood and is one of the most iconic sights in Sumbawa.

It is claimed that the palace is an amazing feat of engineering as it was made without using nails, and stands instead as a result of a clever series of wooden slotting joints.

8. Benete Beach

Located in West Sumbawa, Benete Beach is one of the most popular in the area and a big part of this is down to the dining options here.

The beach is close to the Batu Hijau Mine region, and it is here that you will find some of the most delicious seafood in all of Sumbawa.

The beach is a little different from many others in the area as it is covered in a kind of black sand which is a result of volcanic mineral deposits.

The best way to enjoy it is to seek out a little local eatery, order up a plate of simply grilled seafood and tuck in while enjoying the views across the water.

9. Maluk Beach

Maluk has a pretty beach which is also made even more interesting by the fact that it backs on seas that are blessed with a pounding surf.

Many surf aficionados who have heard about the scene in Sumbawa flock here, but you will need to bring your board with you as it can be hard to rent anything on the beach.

The waves get up to a height of around 2 meters and the village of Maluk where the beach is located is also a good place to visit in its own right as it is filled with local warungs and leafy scenery.

10. Mata Jitu Waterfall

Inside the Moyo Island Forest is the Mata Jitu Waterfall which you will hear long before you see it.

To get here you will need to trek through the forest and the waterfalls are said to have formed millions of years ago long before the area was even inhabited.

The waterfall is staggered over four sections and there are seven pools here that you can swim in and come as a welcome relief after the hot trek to get out to the location.

11. Tropica Beach

Tropica Beach is also sometimes referred to as Tropicals, although whatever it is called it is certainly the quintessential tropical paradise.

You will find this amazing beach outside the village of Sekongkang Bawah in wider Sekongkang and it is one of the prettiest stretches of sand in the area.

There is some surfing to be had here although unlike some of the other beaches in the area which are only really worth visiting if you are a hard core surfer, Tropica Beach is also good for swimmers or those who just want to kick back and lay on the sand.

12. Liang Petang

Liang Petang is not recommended for anyone who suffers from claustrophobia or who is afraid of the dark.

Liang translates as cave in Indonesian and Petang means dark, and this is pretty much what you will get here – a dark cave.

If you bring a flashlight with you however the cave will come alive with elegant stalactites and stalagmites that adorn the inner chamber.

You will find some oddities inside including rock formations that look like tomb stones, so if you like archaeology this is another spot not to miss in Sumbawa.

13. Gunung Tambora

Gunung Tambora is the highest peak on Sumbawa and stands at almost 3,000 meters tall.

The mountain is also an active volcano, but that doesn’t mean that you can’t climb it as it hasn’t erupted properly since the 1960s.

To trek to the top of Gunung Tambora you will need to make your way to the village of Pancasila and from there you can hire a guide and set off on your hike.

Depending on your fitness levels it usually takes several days to climb to the summit and back down again, and even if you are in very good shape it is not possible to get to the crater in a day.

As such, you will need to camp out overnight if you want to conquer the summit.

14. Satonda Island

Satonda Island is part of Sumbawa and is best visited as part of a boat trip which lets you take in some of the best scenery in the area.

The island has the claim to fame of having a large crater lake in the center which would have been a volcano and which has now filled with salt water.

You can get a boat across to Satonda Island from neighboring Pancasila and there is one resort here if you want to stay overnight.

Common pastimes at the island include snorkeling or simply enjoying the vistas over the lake.

15. Gili Paserang

Just a short jump across from Poto Tano is the island of Gili Paserang which is one of the sweetest spots in Sumbawa.

If you travel here by boat you will find white sandy beaches and you can camp on the island as long as you have your own camping equipment.

As with many parts of Sumbawa the big draw here is the snorkeling and Gili Paserang backs onto banks of pretty coral.

Certainly if you really want to get away from it all then consider camping under the stars here as it will doubtless be the highlight of a trip to stunning Sumbawa.

15 Best Places to Visit in Sumbawa (Indonesia):

• Kenawa Island
• Moyo Island
• Jereweh Waterfall
• Ai Manis Beach
• The Old Palace of Dalam Loka
• Benete Beach
• Maluk Beach
• Mata Jitu Waterfall
• Tropica Beach
• Liang Petang
• Gunung Tambora
• Satonda Island
• Gili Paserang

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Sumbawa travel guide

Larger than Bali and Lombok combined, Sumbawa’s contorted form is the result of violent volcanic explosions. It was Gunung Tambora that isolated the people of the west from the eastern Bimanese for centuries. So separate are they that the native language of the Sumbawanese is more akin to those of the Balinese and the Lombok Sasaks, while the Bima language is more like those of Flores and Sumba. Javanese Hinduism never made it this far east, and most Sumbawans are devout Muslims: visitors should wear respectful attire away from the beaches, particularly in the east.

Until fairly recently, there were only two reasons to visit this little-known island: to hire a boat from Sape in the east heading for Komodo National Park or to catch a big wave on its west or southeast coasts. Improved air services to Labuhanbajo, Flores, from where the sail to Komodo is much easier and prettier, have negated the first reason, leaving surfing as the island’s biggest attraction. The breaks at Hu’u attract championship surfers, and sunsets from the beaches are stunning.

There are a few other relatively unnoticed things to do and see in Sumbawa. The rich and famous use part of Pulau Moyo , off the north coast, as a luxury remote getaway. Moyo is also a nature reserve protecting forest and wildlife, and there are trekking opportunities. The mighty Gunung Tambora is also waiting to be climbed, and there are megaliths believed to be related to those in Sumba.

Places to visit in Sumbawa

Batu tering.

The hills east of Sumbawa Besar contain large stone sarcophagi, carved in low relief with human forms and crocodiles. Batu Tering, about 29km (18 miles) south of Sumbawa Besar, has megaliths said to be the royal tombs of ancient chiefs, a Neolithic culture that thrived about 2,000 years ago. About 2km (1¼ miles) beyond is Liang Petang (Dark Cave), with stalactites and stalagmites resembling humans and weaving looms. 

Two-thirds of this island is a game reserve to protect the island’s deer, banteng wild ox, 21 bat species and wild boars. The flora here ranges from savannah to dense jungle containing teak, tamarind and banyan trees. There are two waterfalls; the one near Labuan Aji village is an easier trek. South of the island the water is crystal clear and the reefs undisturbed, ideal for snorkellers and divers, with a white-sand beach opposite the island at Tanjung Manis.

Moyo is accessible in about 45 minutes by speedboat from Sumbawa Besar. Alternatively, fishing boats can be hired from Ai Bari. Simple accommodation is available at Tanjung Pasir on the mainland. The luxurious Amanwana resort, with modified villas using canvas tent toppings, is also on Moyo. It’s totally isolated, and bookings have to be made in advance.

Gunung Tambora

Serious climbers may want to ascend Gunung Tambora. In 1815, some 100 cu km (25 cu miles) of debris were ejected into the atmosphere with a force equivalent to that of several hydrogen bombs, creating “the year without summer” in 1816. Located on the northern peninsula of Sumbawa, the gaping, 2,821-metre (9,250ft) high caldera offers spectacular views on a clear day. The ascent begins at Calabai, a small logging town on the coast. It is a very difficult three-day climb and a guide is imperative.

At Bima, if there is a festival going on, you may catch pencak silat (martial arts) and other dance performances at the sultan’s palace. At the pasar (local market), you’ll see women wearing colourful Islamic headscarves that are unique to this region; unmarried women must cover everything except their eyes.

There are several traditional villages in the hills east of Bima, where the people fled to escape Islamisation in the 17th century. Donggo is the oldest. Women here still weave indigo cloth, from which they make their traditional clothing. The Donggo people adhere to a traditional animistic religion.

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Sumbawa Travel Guide

Sumbawa is somewhat of an enigma. It’s separated from its western neighbour Lombok by only 20km’s and is three times the size. And if you happen to be flying over it on your way to Flores or West Timor , you can’t help but notice the rugged topography and jagged coastline interspersed with long expanses of white sandy beaches. It looks intriguing, yet despite its promising appearance and easy access from Lombok and even Bali, it has stayed firmly off the tourist radar.

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Sumbawa is rather conservatively Muslim, without the well-preserved traditional villages and ageless indigenous cultures of its neighbours Sumba and Flores. That’s because its ancient culture was devastated by the eruption of Mt Tambora in 1815. Archaeologists are starting to unearth some intriguing artifacts dating back to the Neolithic period, but it remains something of a mystery. We do know that Sumbawa has traditionally been occupied by two distinct ethnic groups, each with their own languages and customs. The Sumbawanese in the west are closely related to the Sasak people on Lombok, the Bimanese in the east closely related to the people of Flores. A third, linguistically separate minority group called the Don Donggo are also found in the eastern highlands.

During the 14 th century, and perhaps sometime before, Sumbawa was ruled by the Java based Majapahit kingdom. After the fall of the kingdom in the mid-15 th century, West Sumbawa was intermittently controlled by the Balinese, the Islamic Makassar’s of South Sulawesi and the Dutch. In more recent times, the Indonesian Government’s Transmigration Scheme has brought an influx of Javanese migrants to the island. The hotchpotch of influences and the Mt Tambora eruption has understandably, left Sumbawa without any real cultural identity of its own. That’s no reason to pass over Sumbawa though, for the island has abundant natural attractions and a laid back atmosphere that’s contagious.

The few tourists who set foot on Sumbawa are often completing a sea/land crossing on their way to Flores. They step off the ferry at Poto Tano onto a bus and don’t step off that until they reach the outward port of Sape on the east coast. Most are totally unaware that they are passing right by some absolute hidden gems.

Surfers’s have been coming to the island for decades. The southwest coast is renowned for perfectly formed breaks with names like Supersuck, Yoyo’s, Big Brother and Scar Reef. But it’s not just the waves that draw them; it’s the whole package. Beautiful beaches, clear warm tropical water, a hinterland bedecked with jungle, rice fields and banana plantations, quiet villages and friendly locals. It’s the epitome of a tropical paradise; like Bali in the raw four or five decades ago.

And just like Bali back then, the real adventure is just getting out there and having a look around. Gorgeous beaches with lots of calm, flat water ideal for swimming and snorkelling. The interior has some excellent hiking opportunities, including climbing the mega volcano, Mt Tambora. There are waterfalls , caves and fascinating archaeological sites .

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The great outdoors

• MYAMO Beach Lodge
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• SuperSuck Hotel
• Moyo Island
• Kenawa Island
• Paserang Island
• Gili Bola (Bedil Island)
• YL TRAVELINDO
• Whaleshark and Snorkeling Adventure at Lombok Sumbawa Beach
• Private Transfer from Sumbawa Besar Airport (SWQ) to Lempeh
• Tourist car rental in Bima NTB
• Private Transfer from Sumbawa Besar Airport (SWQ) to Brang Biji
• Private Transfer from Sumbawa Besar Airport (SWQ) to Wisata Alam Semongkat

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September 25, 2023 Elliot Lombok & Sumbawa 0

Sumbawa in a nutshell

Sumbawa is the island located between Lombok and Flores.

In this article I will report about a motorbike trip from the western harbor (Pototano) to the eastern one (Sape) done in August 2023.

As of 2023 most of the tourism is still brought by 2 sources :

• People joining cruise from Lombok to Komodo that visit some spots on the northern coast.

Recent developments include the rising popularity of whaleshark watching tour in the bay of Saleh and some big real-estate development on the west coast.

I’ll try to give you a comprehensive view of the island, including areas I chose to skip.

From Pototano to Sumbawa Besar

Once in Pototano, you have 2 choices : get east towards Sumbawa Besar or drive down the western coast (for beach & surfing).

I headed east.

If like me you arrive middle or late afternoon and don’t want to drive at night, you may want to stop on the way in the small town of Alas.

But I decided to try my luck in the Bajo village of Bungin instead. Turns out the few accommodations they had in the past had shut down. They’re building new ones but by the time of my visit they weren’t ready.

So I ended up arranging a home stay in the village. It’s a true authentic Indonesian experience : expect sleeping on the floor, noise, lots of trash in the streets… and huge smiles.

Don’t be cheap and leave some money when you leave (I gave 150’000Rp to my host) even if they tell you it’s not necessary.

For dinner, there was excellent seafood available at the restaurant The Front. Also several food stalls available if you are looking for something cheap.

The Bajo village of Bungin

This village is quite famous in Indonesia, national TV has dubbed it “ the most crowded village in the country” .

A drone view will help you to understand why :

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Wedding,Prewedding,Engagement (@tekingphotography) on Oct 22, 2018 at 2:45am PDT

Several generations ago, Bajo fishermen settled there. Since then they have kept on reclaiming more land, first with pieces of corral, now with sand they bring from the mainland.

This village sees at least a couple of visitors per day. Boat cruises from Lombok to Komodo also often stops for 1 or 2 hours there regularly.

But at night and in the morning, you are likely to be the only visitors around. People are delighted to talk with you, provided you can converse in Indonesia (or Bajo language).

Staying in the village is great for an early morning stroll :

After a goodbye to everyone and a promise to come back one day, I hit the road again.

From Alas to Sumbawa Besar

Don’t forget to look on your left after you pass Alas for some views of Bungin :

Despite being in the middle of the dry season, I’ve seen several oasis of green along the road :

Sumbawa Besar

Sumbawa Besar is the largest town of west Sumbawa. They also have an airport there with regular flights to Bali.

A key sightseeing is the former Sultan’s palace called Istana Dalam Loka. It’s free. Very interesting architecture with obvious Bugis’ influence (according to me). Right next to it it’s the grand mosque of Sumbawa Besar.

The inside of the palace is not super interesting (it’s mostly empty) but the guardian can answer most of your questions (in Indonesian). Most interesting is probably the collection of historical pictures and the replica of the crown and keris of the Sultan.

There is no entrance fees but a donation box. I gave 30’000Rp to the guardian.

From Sumbawa Besar to Bima

Irrigation allows for farming to continue despite the dryness of the season :

You will soon start to drive around the Bay of Saleh ( Teluk Saleh ). I didn’t found that part super scenic honestly. Shallot farming seems to be a big thing here.

Dozens of people and street food sellers gather by the road at a point called Rest Area Teluk Saleh to watch sunset.

I then made an overnight stop at the small town of Manggalewa.

Hiking Tambora volcano via Doro Ngancca

Around dompu.

On your right when you pass the village of Katua you will find extensive ricefields :

A few kilometers further, there are some impressive terraced ricefields tended by the people of Ndano. For the views below, you’ll need to walk a bit away from the road.

The villagers of Ndano where super keen on having a talk with me :

Keep driving. The landscape continues to alternate between dry and lush landscapes.

Dou Donggo land

From the small town of Sila, you can take north to explore the mountainous land of the Dou Donggo.

When the people of Bima converted to Islam, some refused to abandonned their own religious practice. They chose instead to seek a new home in the mountains. This is the origin of the Dou Donggo people.

I read that a couple of traditional granaries where still to be found there. I found only one in the village of Mbawa. It’s not well maintained. As someome told me : “people don’t believe in the old things anymore”.

The people in the villages told me to go check a viewpoint called La Hilla. It was midday, dry season and yet the view over the ricefields and the gulf of Bima was stunning.

Can’t wait to come back during rainy season for better colors.

From Bima to Sape

In Bima, I came across a traditional Bimanese warung serving local specialties from the area. It’s simple but they’re super nice and I’ve eaten stuff there that I’ve never seen before.

Traditional houses : Situs Uma Lengge Wawo

A couple of traditional granaries ( Uma Lengge ) can be found a few kilometers after Bima. Most of the granaries are falling apart but a few at the entrance of the site are still ok.

One nice guy is apparently there everytime and he decided to improvise himself as a tour guide. He’s not pushy and rather interesting, if I remember well he told me he doesn’t do it for the money. I gave him 20’000Rp when I left anyway.

Last kilometers towards Sape

Same kind of views since I started the trip : dry land and oasis of irrigated greens. Also came across this guy that brings his horse on his motorbike :

On my last day, I saw several groups marching in preparation for Independence Day :

This women can be seen wearing the typical colorful headscarf of the Bimanese :

Other areas of interests

The west coast (beaches & big waves).

To be clear : I’ve never explored that part of Sumbawa but it’s probably the ‘most’ touristy part of the island with several surf camps and resorts.

From the western harbor of Pototano, just drive south along the coastal road. On the way you will pass the small town of Taliwang.

Surfers have flocked to the area since at least the 90s especially around the beach of Maluk and Sekongkang.

There you will find lots of nice and relatively quiet beaches, and allegedly great surfing. I’m neither a surfer nor a beach lover so I cannot be more informative than this but it looks very nice on pictures.

Also, the island of Kenawa is often visited by boat cruise between Lombok and Labuan Bajo.

Moyo Satonda Marine National Park

Facing Sumbawa Besar and closing the Saleh Bay you have the fairly large island of Moyo.

This island is famous for a waterfall called Mata Jitu. Besides this I’ve never hear much more from the island.

I heard once good things about the dive center but never took the time to visit.

Not very far from Moyo you have the island of Satonda, which looks very impressive by drone.

The question is : what does it look like from the ground ? My guess is : ok.

Satonda is almost always visited by cruise sailing between Bali and Komodo.

In 2022 a new national park called Moyo Satonda has been gazetted. I know that for years disembarking at Satonda was charged 100’000Rp for foreigners, now that it’s officially a national park it will probably increase.

I haven’t heard of a 150’000Rp entrance tiket for Mata Jitu waterfall yet (the norm in Indonesia is to charge a 150’000Rp entrance tiket per day for foreigner visiting any national park).

Snorkeling with whale sharks in the bay of Saleh

Since about 2018-2019, an industry of whaleshark tours has developped in the bay of Saleh ( Teluk Saleh ). It is centered around the village of Labuan Jambu.

From various testimonies and videos I’ve seen it seems to get pretty busy as Lombok-Komodo cruises include it in their itinerary.

I didn’t had time yet to stop there but I gathered the following info :

• The whalesharks are fed to stay near the surface.
• The whalesharks are present year-round.
• These tours are not cheap. As of 2023 I’ve seen price starting at 2,6 millions IDR for one person (and you add 200k for each extra person). These are price advertised online so there is probably room for some negotiation.

So basically, it costs you more than in the Philippines (unless you have a large group to share the cost with) for more or less the same conditions (potentially crowded, feeding).

So I passed so far. But I might change my mind in the future. Typically if I decide to spend some days diving in Moyo and they can arrange a tour with other guests.

Practical details

Coming to sumbawa, lombok – sumbawa.

Coming from Lombok is easy : just go to Labuan Kayangan harbor (located in Labuhan Lombok village) and buy a ferry ticket. ASDP Ferries run every hour night and days. The ticket is 78’000Rp with a motorbike and about 20’000Rp as a passenger.

If you don’t bring you own wheels, just take a bus heading to Sape in Mataram. It will take the same ferry.

The ferry takes 2 hours once it departs to reach Pototano harbour in Sumbawa.

You will first need to stop at the booth at the entry to top-up your e-money card. Then you can buy your ticket with it at the entrance.

Sumbawa to Labuan Bajo (Flores) or Sumba

Once you reach the eastern harbor of Sumbawa (Sape) you have two choices with ASDP (name of the company) :

• Cross to Labuan Bajo in west Flores.
• Cross to Waikelo in west Sumba (near the town of Waitabula).

By August 2023, there were only one ferry running between these 3 harbors, with another one supposed to come back from maintenance soon.

The key info here is that you cannot simply assume there is a ferry every day.

The good news is that the guys from the harbor post all the updated schedules on their Instagram page @pelabuhan.sape.

Both ferries takes at least 10 hours. Right now the Cakalang is not super comfortable as they don’t seem to rend mattress.

The ticket from Sape to Sumba was 256’000Rp with a bike. Again you need to top-up your emoney card first then pay the ticket (this can be done at once as ASDP office in Sape).

Flying to Sumbawa

Sumbawa has 2 airports : one near Sumbawa Besar and one near Bima. I would expect them to offer flights to Bali, Lombok and maybe Jakarta, Surabaya, Makassar and Kupang.

Pelni ferries

Bima is also part of some Pelni routes. A few years ago, there wasn’t that many but more details can be found about it here .

Accommodation

If you are not yet familiar with this website I don’t care about fancy accommodation. All the places listed below are typical Indonesian homestays. From west to east, here are some places I used or wrote down :

• In Alas (less than 15km from Pototano) : Homestay Alas. Haven’t slept there, but they have good reviews on Google. Price seems to be 250’000Rp per room.
• If you speak some Indonesia, you can also arrange a homestay in Bungin village. I left 150’000 to my host when I left.
• I cannot find the name of place I stayed at in 2017. But based on Google Maps reviews, I would probably start by Homestay Sakura Sumbawa.
• In the village of Labuan Jambu in the bay of Saleh, hotel Alffiah seems to be popular with whalesharks tour organizers.
• In Manggalewa, I slept at Penginapan Ariel. Room with fan and cold water was 100’000Rp (they also have AC rooms for 150’000Rp). Quite run-down. At first I intended to sleep at Penginapan Fadila but I missed it at night and ended up there. If I come back I would start again by Fadila.
• If I was to sleep in Dompu, I had selected Homestay Andara from Google Maps reviews. Seems to be fair for one night. Price seems to be 200’000Rp per night.
• I have never slep in Bima or Sape, but it shouldn’t be too hard to find a place with Google Maps or Booking.

Public transportation in Sumbawa

Sumbawa is basically one main road : the TransSumbawa. It’s almost everywhere in prime conditions.

You do have buses going everyday between Sumbawa Besar, Dompu and Bima as well as larger buses bringing people all the way from Java to Sape.

There are not hard to find : just stay by the main road and wave at them when they pass.

But there are not super regular either (a few departures per day). You could definetly catch one bus a day and make your way across the island in a couple of days while stopping at some place of interests (for instance Bungin, Teluk Saleh, Tambora, Bima …).

Just be aware that you will probably miss all the small stops along the road.

If you just want to save some money while going from Bali/Lombok to Komodo, there are some ferries from Pelni leaving from Benoa (Bali) or Lembar (Lombok) going to Labuan Bajo. It shouldn’t cost you very much more than a 2 days bus and your bum will thank you.

Motorbike rental in Sumbawa

As far as I know, it’s still not easy to find a motorbike for rent in Sumbawa. I must say that the last time I tried was in 2017. But during this trip in 2023, I saw nowhere sign advertising for bike rental, nor I found rental companies on Google Maps.

My best bet would be the surf homestays on the western coast.

Then, the geography of Sumbawa makes it not really suitable for a loop trip. Sumbawa is basically one road. So if you have to bring the motorbike back at the point of origin, it means driving the same road 2 times.

That being said, you need only 2 full days to cross Sumbawa island so if you are keen on driving, getting a bike in Bali or Lombok and bringing it by ferry is doable.

Some motorbike rental companies let you rent a bike from Bali to Labuan Bajo one way. If I didn’t have my own bike, I would probably do that.

Just google “One way motorbike rental Bali Labuan Bajo” or something similar.

What to combine Sumbawa with ?

Let’s be honest, unless you are a surfer, you have little reason to fly specially to Sumbawa. As you are mostly gonna come by the road, obviously you could combine Sumbawa with :

• Lombok and Bali from the west.
• Flores (Komodo) or Sumba to the east.

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Jelajahi Sumbawa

Wisata dan Liburan ke Sumbawa

Yang wajib di sumbawa.

Yang Menarik di Sumbawa

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Menghilangkan penat

• Tentang Saya
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Senin, 24 September 2018

Informasi penyeberangan/ travel dari pulau lombok ke pulau sumbawa.

Informasi Jelajah Indonesiaku , Informasi Penyeberangan Lombok Sumbawa , Informasi Transportasi Mataram , Mataram , Nusa Tenggara Barat , Pulau Lombok

23 komentar:

Halo Admin http://marijelajahindonesiaku.blogspot.com Kami dari Vemale.com, situs wanita grup dari KapanLagi.com. Apakah kita bisa kerjasama untuk bertukar link? Anda bisa menampilkan link Vemale.com di http://marijelajahindonesiaku.blogspot.com Untuk posisi link-nya, kami berharap link dari Vemale.com diletakkan di sidebar kanan. Dan kami akan menampilkan link http://marijelajahindonesiaku.blogspot.com di halaman Vemale.com: http://www.vemale.com/kuliner/icip-icip, sesuai dengan kategori Travel & Kuliner. Jika berkenan silahkan menghubungi kami via email di [email protected] dengan menyertakan email ini Terima kasih atas kerjasamanya :) Salam, -- Humas Vemale.com Ari Rahmawati

Mas informasi bus dari Bima ke mataram punya gak mas? thank you

Dear Koko, Untuk rute dari Bima ke Mataram Silahkan cek Bus Langsung Indah. Salam, semoga informasi kami bermanfaat, Mari Jelajah Indonesia kita. :)

Wa 081272393881

Saya mencarai lowongan kerja draivear mataram bima

kalau saya dari bandara lombok internasional ke sumbawa bisa dijemput biayanya berapa?

Hi, Mohon maaf kami bukan travel, tidak melayani seperti permintaan bapak/ ibu. Terima kasih Salam, semoga informasi kami bermanfaat, Mari Jelajah Indonesia kita. :)

Jadi bingung kalau mau kesumbawa, apa lagi blum pernah kelombok, g tau akses jalan klau g ada jemputan dari bandara

Bisa WA 081907561277

kalok kirim barang alias stop di pinggir jalan, biasanya jam berapa?

Really helpful

Dear Caesar Fridea, Thank you sir.

kalo dari lombok ke taliwang travelnya ada gk...

Dari bandara ke taliwang sekitar jam 19.00 ke atas ada Travel yg bisa jalan gk ya? Klo da mnta info nya, min. Tgl 27 besok mau ke Sumbawa (taliwang)dan tiba di BIL sekitar jam 19.00. Contact ku ya min : 082244466215 Terima kasih sebelumnya

Yang butuh info travel di pulau sumbawa contact saya via email: [email protected] atau WA 082247626999

Kalo dari mataram ke sumbawa ada perjalan yg jam 8 malam gak??

Paling malam jam setengah 9 mas dari pul damri.

Info dong mas, bus/travel yang penjemputannya dari pelabuhan Lembar dan menuju ke Sumbawa?

perum damri nomor2 yg di posting nggak jelas semuanya,,,,,, gimna cara kita bisa menghubungi untuk boking??????

Misalkan mau kirim barang/durian ke sumbawa ongkirnya brp?

In fact, at present there are several public transportation services serving the route either by air or land-sea lines.

Bima sumbawa brpa ongkosx??

Mataram ke dompu apakah masih ada jadwal jam 21:00 wita?

Catatan Perjalanan Keliling Indonesia dan berbagi informasi tentang obyek wisata di Indonesia.

Total Pengunjung Blog

Popular posts.

Sumbawa Besar Travel Guide: The Gateway to Sumbawa

Sumbawa Besar is the capital of Sumbawa, an island to the east of Bali and Lombok and west of Flores. Compared to those islands, particularly Bali and Lombok, Sumbawa is not particularly developed or touristy. That can be a good and bad thing for visitors. On the plus side, it means it’s quieter, and you’re more likely to have meaningful interactions with local people. On the other hand, it means there are not so many amenities for tourists. As the capital of the island, though, Sumbawa Besar has a decent range of places to eat and sleep. Read on to find out more.

Getting to Sumbawa Besar

Arriving to Sumbawa Besar is relatively easy from other places in Indonesia, whether by air or water. Sumbawa Besar has a small airport with regular connections to Praya in Lombok. There are around three flights daily and the flight takes around 30-40 minutes. From Lombok, you can connect to most major destinations in Indonesia and beyond, with flights to Kuala Lumpur and Singapore.

Many visitors to Sumbawa Besar are travelling the old fashioned way: over land and sea from the west. From Lombok, you can arrange for a bus to take you from Mataram to Sumabwa Besar, which takes around seven hours including the boat trip.

What to do in Sumbawa Besar

Surfing in sumbawa.

The majority of international visitors to Sumbawa only stop off here to surf. The island has some of Indonesia’s finest surf breaks, without the crowds of Lombok or Bali. From Sumbawa Besar, you can catch a bus to Maluk on the west coast, which takes around three hours. Here you’ll find Supersuck, one of the island’s most celebrated surf spots. Sumbawa Besar is also often the jumping-off point for surf breaks further afield, such as Hu’u and Lakey Peak. Many of these are only suitable for advanced surfers – Sumbawa is not really a place to pick up a board for the first time. However, serious surfers make the effort to come here because some of these breaks are among the finest anywhere in the world.

Moyo Island

Probably the biggest tourist destination in the vicinity of Sumbawa Besar is Moyo Island, a beautiful nature reserve. Around half of the island is owned by Amanwana Resort , which probably accounts for the majority of visitors. It is run by the Aman Group and is one of the most famous and luxurious hotel in Sumbawa. There’s great

If you want a cheaper option from Sumbawa Besar it is perfectly possible to visit independently, though it takes a little effort. You will need to drive or take a bemo or ojek to Ai Bari, a fishing village around 15 miles north of Sumbawa. There, you can charter a fishing boat to take you to Moyo. There is some basic accommodation in Labuan Aji, a village on Moyo, but it’s easier to arrange return transport to Sumbawa with your boat driver. On Moyo, you can hike through forests and waterfalls, spotting wild pigs, buffalo, and tropical birds. It’s advisable to ask about hiring a guide, from your hotel in Sumbawa Besar.

The Sultan’s Palace

Pretty much the only attraction of any interest in Sumbawa Besar itself is the Sultan’s Palace. This wooden palace was built in the late 19th century without the use of a single nail. Perhaps surprisingly, it’s still standing, and it’s in pretty good condition. You can have a look around for a small (voluntary) donation, although it’s not exactly a tourist attraction. You’ll likely have to wake up the dozing guard to let you in, and there’s not much to see inside – a few of the rooms are used to house lawnmowers and other equipment. Still, it’s a relaxing enough place for a stroll and provides some respite from the afternoon sun.

Where to stay in Sumbawa Besar

As mentioned above, Sumbawa Besar is not a tourist resort, and there’s not a huge range of hotels here, although it’s the best you’ll find in Sumbawa. Most travellers end up at the Hotel Tambora, which has a wide range of rooms and a decent central location.

If you have a little more money to play with, Samawa Transit Hotel is a good mid-range choice. As the name suggests, it’s close to the airport so it’s great if you’re just stopping over. However, it’s close to the centre of town, too. It also has lovely modern rooms, a spa and a café and restaurant.

At top range, the choice gets even narrower. There’s pretty much nowhere within town itself, but Samawa Seaside Cottage , on the coast northeast of town, is a beautifully relaxing place to stay. It’s also directly opposite Moyo, making it more convenient for trips to the island than Sumbawa Besar itself. The dark wood bungalows are very comfortable and you can enjoy ocean views from the comfort of your own bed.

Where to eat in Sumbawa Besar

This is an area in which Sumbawa Besar comes up really short. If you’re coming from Java, Bali or Lombok, you will notice a distinct lack of proper restaurants in Sumbawa Besar. That said, there is no shortage of warungs, meaning this is a great place to sample traditional dishes in the local Indonesian way. The area around Jl Hasanuddin is the best place to look.

Final thoughts

Sumbawa Besar is not a tourist destination in itself, but there’s enough in the way of hotels to make it OK for a stopover. Most visitors will come to explore nearby Moyo Island, or to surf Sumbawa’s famous breaks.

Have you been to Sumbawa Besar? Do you have any suggestions other than those listed here? Let us know in the comments below.

Next post Bima Travel Guide: The Gateway to Eastern Sumbawa

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Ke Sumbawa (Darat)

  Last Update 14 September 2015

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Put-in tours

Original tour agency in moscow and st petersburg..

Onboard a Soviet van!

Welcome to Russia!

We are Sergey and Simon, a Russian and a Frenchman, both  passionate about Moscow, Saint-Petersburg and classic cars. Together, we have created Put-in tours. Our goal is to help you experience Russian culture off the beaten path. Join us onboard our classic Soviet van and let’s get rolling!

In Moscow we offer you a city tour to discover most of the city in an original way as well as a night tour to admire the lights. Our pubcrawl is ideal to explore Moscow’s night-life and have fun. If you are craving to discover Russian culture, come impress your senses during our monastery diner or join our 100% Russian Banya Excursion . The latest will also bring you to Sergiyev Posad and it’s famous monastery!

For the most extreme travellers, our shooting tour will deliver your daily dose of adrenaline whereas our tank excursion will let you ride a real tank and shoot a bazooka.

We also offer help to receive your visa , safe and multilingual airport transfers , as well as organisation services for team-building events or bachelor parties .

All our excursions (but the monastery diner) happen onboard our Soviet military vans and can be covered by our  professionnal photographer or videographer.

In Saint Petersburg

We welcome you in Saint Petersburg onboard our Soviet van to discover the imperial city with our city tour and night tour .

Continue your discovery in style! The adrenaline lovers will like our shooting tour  which brings 3 Russian weapons to the tip of your trigger finger.

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At Put-in tours, we put you in our classic Soviet vans to go explore Moscow, Saint Petersburg and Russian culture off the beaten path. Discover our Moscow city guided tour, visit Moscow by night, join our banya & Sergiyev Posad excursion, visit and dine in one of Moscow's oldest monastery or even Luzhniki stadium, before you party on our famous pubcrawl! Original and atypical tours : Shoot AK47 and a bazooka after riding on a tank with our tank & bazooka excursion ! Extreme tours: Fly a fighter jet in Moscow onboard a L-29 or L-39 aircraft!

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Sumbawa – An untouched Surfer’s Paradise

Situated in West Nusa Tenggara is the remote and tranquil island of Sumbawa. Relatively untouched by the common tourist, the island is renown for its picturesque white sandy beaches, luscious landscapes, beautiful diving destinations and quaint local culture. 

A haven for avid surfers, Sumbawa is renown for its diverse wave riding spots. Famous surf breaks like Lakey Peak, Yo-Yo’s, Supersucks and Scar Reef are frequented by pro surfers who are keen for a challenge and not afraid of the 100 metre long waves. Another popular beach in the regency is Maluk Beach. The crisp white sand, clear blue waters ,and breathtaking panoramic views of the hillside surrounding this beach make this beach as one of the favourites among tourists and locals alike. For those who fancy sea turtles, Maluk Beach also hosts a turtle conservation site where visitors have the opportunity to release some baby turtles into the wild.

There is an abundance of untouched, majestic diving locations around the island. The sea surrounding Sumbawa offers deep and vibrant walls with fertile volcanic breeding grounds that yield a large variety of marine life and pristine coral reefs. For an unforgettable diving experience be sure to visit the islands of Moyo, Sangeang and Satonda.

If you are looking for some adventure in a different terrain, then a hike to Mount Tambora is a must. It is the highest mountain in Sumbawa measuring 2,722 meters high and is also the site of the largest volcanic eruption recorded in history. A hike to the top of this mountain will be rewarded with breathtaking views, including that of the enormous and mesmerizing 1,100 M deep crater.  

In the main town of Sumbawa Besar, still exists a very rural and traditional way of life. The main attraction in this town is the Dalam Loka (Sultan’s Palace) which used to function as the Sultan’s place of residence. Since the establishment of a new palace in 1932, this palace, which occupies an entire block, has become a heritage preservation site.

First make your way to Lombok . From Lombok, you can take a ferry to Poto Tano in West Sumbawa.

Some resorts can arrange a private sea plane from Bali directly to Sumbawa or a fast boat from Lombok. 

On Sumbawa there are public buses which run on the island's main highways. Car hire is possible through hotels in Sumbawa Besar of Bima. Motorcycles can also be rented. 

If you want a more authentic experience, try a traditional horse cart – called a benhur – to explore around Sumbawa Besar. 

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Romantic bandung - the paris of java.

Well, I just love Bali so much, and we fell in love with the culture, people, the food. Everything was just amazing. I feel like in Bali, you can find serenity anywhere, literally. It's our favorite place that we've been to on our entire trip.

by Jack Morris Influencer

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Off the Unbeaten Track Edward Adrian-Vallance's travel site

• About Edward
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• Overland Travel

View when driving from Yelisovo airport to Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky

The first myth I want to disprove is that getting to Kamchatka is extremely costly. It’s not. Going between February and April, a return flight from Moscow can be had for 11,000 roubles (US$380 / £220). Not bad for 18 hours total flying time. In summer the flights are more expensive but still, if you book them a few months in advance, can be got for 16,000 roubles return.

It’s true, many people will tell you that March and April are the worst months to visit because the snow is starting to melt and everything’s a bit sloshy and dirty in settlements. On the other hand, these are great months for the independent traveller! During winter zimniki (temporary winter roads made of compacted snow or simply frozen river surfaces) open up all over Kamchatka, granting access to communities that in summer are totally isolated. Hitch hiking is possible right from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky to the very north of the peninsula. Alternatively, vehicles can be hired in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky from tour firms. Also in the winter or early spring months places can be reached that are away even from the zimniki, either by snowmobile or by the use of cross country skis. For example, Klyuchevskaya Sopka, Eurasia’s largest active volcano, can be accessed from the village of Klyuchi without the need even for a guide by a traveller with a pair of cross country skis. Bears do not wake up until mid-April so this is not a danger, but bears almost never attack anyone anyway.

The main disadvantages of winter travel in Kamchatka are that it is cold, there is no greenery and there are no bears, which some people come here especially to see.

The second myth I’d like to dispel is that travel around the peninsula requires hiring a helicopter. As mentioned above, in winter you can get almost anywhere by hitch hiking. I even hitched a lift with bear hunters on snowmobiles from their village to a reindeer herder encampment 100km away. In summer snowmobiles are replaced by horses, and transport is reduced from long distance ice-road journeys to irregular inter-settlement all-terrain vehicle trips. Hitch hiking is possible on these all-terrain vehicles though.

Throughout the year there are fairly expensive public helicopter flights to all settlements which are nevertheless much cheaper than hiring your own helicopter. There is also one permanent, year-round dirt road leading halfway up the peninsula. Some distance after the town of Milkovo, about 350km north of Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky , it forks. The right fork leads to Klyuchi , site of Eurasia’s largest active volcano, and further to the port town of Ust-Kamchatsk. The left fork leads to the indigenous Even villages of Anavgay and Esso. Daily buses go from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky to Klyuchi , Anavgay and Esso, costing about 1000 roubles each way. In winter a zimnik passable by lorries heads north from Anavgay 36 hours to the otherwise isolated town of Palana. From Palana more zimniki head further north to yet more isolated settlements. From the peninsula’s very northernmost settlements there are even EXTREMELY irregular snowmobile and all-terrain vehicle connections with Magadan Oblast and Chukotka. Another zimnik, only passable by all-terrain vehicle, heads from Anavgay to the village of Ust-Khayryuzovo on Kamchatka’s west coast.

• Kamchatka’s Indigenous
• Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky

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