gunung leuser trek

Gunung Leuser National Park!

Get in touch with nature, jungle hike through gunung leuser national park.

With over 7.000 square kilometers, the Gunung Leuser ( Leuser Mountain) National Park, is one of the largest wilderness areas in Southeast Asia. The Park encompasses the impressive Leuser Range and is home to many extremely rare endangered animals including the Sumatran Orangutan, the Sumatran Rhino, the Sumatran Tiger, and countless other species.

Local and international Conservation Group have been focused for years on protecting this special forest.

Hi Everyone!

My name is Putra Jungle and I grew up in Ketambe and its jungle. Already as a kid I spend a lot of time in the jungle, being fascinated by the stories that my dad would tell me, since he works in the Leuser Ecosystems for more than 24 years. In 2010 I started working as a guide, being trained before. I also started my own business. I studied Economics at the same time, where I learned more about the ecosystems. After I graduated in 2016 I fully focused on guiding tours in the jungle . I now work together with my team of local guides.

It is my goal to show the people how beautiful the jungle and its wildlife is and to share my knowledge with them. It makes me really happy when my customers leave the jungle with a smile on their face. Besides that, I also find it important to protect the jungle and therefore it is important to share my knowledge. We offer different tours in the jungle with the main goal to spot the Sumatran Orangutan in our Gunung Leuser National park.

We offer trekking for 1 to 7 days and if you want to make a longer trekking it is possible on special request. We also offer Rafting Adventures on the Alas River, a Village Ketambe tour, transportation and it is possible to stay at our Guesthouse.  If you want more information please send me a request! I hope to see you in Ketambe soon!

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Reviews from our guests

Please contact me if you are interested!

Bukit Lawang Jungle Trekking & Sumatran Orangutans

Travel guide for medan indonesia.

Bukit Lawang jungle trekking with a guide in Indonesia is one of the best places to see the Sumatran Orangutan in the wild, and it’s pretty easy to do on a budget!

The small village of Bukit Lawang sits on the edge of the Gunung Leuser National Park, a big rainforest where you can see all kinds of animals, including tigers, rare birds & lizards, orangutans, and other monkeys.

Trekking packages are generally ethical and you’re almost guaranteed to see Sumatran Orangutans and other wildlife. We saw more than 20 orangutans and a bunch of rare animals in just a couple days of trekking!

This Bukit Lawang blog and guide will explain how to get there, what to do, where to stay, trekking prices, and everything else you need to know before you go! Table of Contents show 1) How To Get To Bukit Lawang 2) Bukit Lawang Jungle Trekking 3) Sumatran Orangutan Facts 4) Bukit Lawang Trekking Prices & Length 5) Best Bukit Lawang Jungle Trekking Tour 6) Where To Stay In Bukit Lawang 7) Other Tips For Bukit Lawang 8) More Things To Do Near Bukit Lawang 9) When To Visit Bukit Lawang 10) More Indonesia Travel Tips

How To Get To Bukit Lawang

Bukit Lawang is located in North Sumatra, Indonesia, and it’s relatively easy to get there.

There’s no airport in Bukit Lawang, so the nearest international airport is in the city of Medan (KNO), which gets daily flights from places like Bangkok, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, and Jakarta starting at $40 USD for a one way ticket. You can shop for flights to Medan at Skyscanner.

Bukit Lawang is a 3 hour drive from Medan city, although in heavy traffic it can take an extra hour or more. Your hotel in Lawang can arrange a driver to pick you up at the airport in Medan, or you can book a high-rated private driver to Bukit Lawang here .

A normal price for a transfer from Medan to Bukit Lawang (or vice versa) with a private driver is about 600k Rupiah ($42 USD), but may cost a little extra in heavy traffic.

Drone pic of Gunung Leuser National Park

Bukit Lawang Jungle Trekking

The rainforest has lots of great wildlife.

In two treks we saw orangutans, gibbons, thomas leaf monkeys, long tailed macaques, monitor lizards, giant ants, a spectacular banyan tree, and other jungle sights.

Inside the national park, you also have a possibility of seeing rare birds, Sumatran tigers, rhinos, elephants, sun bears, pig tailed macaques, vipers, cobras, kraits, and many other things.

This jungle is part of the Gunung Leuser National Park, and it houses some endangered animals, so there are a few rules they expect you to follow:

• Don’t enter the park without a guide. If you pay for a trekking package, you’ll have two guides with you at all times. Their job is to keep you safe in the jungle and give you info about the Sumatran Orangutan and other animals.
• Don’t enter the park without a permit. Your Bukit Lawang guide will handle this for you.
• Don’t go closer to wild animals than 10 meters. Sometimes the animals break this rule, though, and if you’re lucky they may come close to you!
• Don’t feed or touch wild animals. They can become dependent or catch diseases from us. This includes the Sumatran Orangutan.
• Don’t leave rubbish in the National Park. Self explanatory. Thankfully we didn’t see any trash in the jungle at all during our treks.

The trekking difficulty at Bukit Lawang is not too bad, but it’s harder than I expected.

This isn’t like Tangkoko or Tanjung Puting National Park , where you can walk on flat ground and burn minimal calories while enjoying the wildlife.

There are some steep hill sections at Lawang where your legs will get a big workout, and the ground can be muddy and nasty sometimes with thorns and leeches. The daytime humidity can also be crazy.

Don’t let this scare you away! It all adds to the experience. If you don’t think your fitness level is there, I’d recommend doing the 1 day trek instead of 2 days.

Creek crossing

Before dinner, we soaked in the creek to bathe and cool off after the jungle trek. It was a nice clearwater stream and exactly what we needed to beat the humidity.

The camp is very simple and consists of a small 2-person tent inside of a larger covered bamboo shack where the guides and cooks can stay.

When you wake up the next morning after your trek, your Bukit Lawang guide will give you the choice of walking back to town or rafting on inner-tubes. We decided not to do the rafting, but now I wish we had.

It gives you a great view of the jungle from the outside that you won’t get to see on foot!

The jungle day treks normally provide lunch, and for 2-day treks there’s also dinner at night and then breakfast the following morning.

The food we had on our treks was great. For lunch it was fried rice, egg, crackers, and fruit (banana, pineapple, and watermelon).

For dinner, we had some Indonesian dishes that included chicken curry and perkedel (potato cakes), fried fish & rice, and more veggies. Breakfast was like lunch, but with a choice of tea or coffee.

The trekking companies can cater to your diet if there’s anything specific you want (or don’t want). Just give them a heads up the day before you start.

This is not food. But it’s nice looking.

Sumatran Orangutan Facts

Of course, the main attraction at Bukit Lawang is the Sumatran Orangutan!

Orangutans live only in Indonesia and Malaysia (on the islands of Sumatra and Borneo), and Bukit Lawang is one of the best places to see Sumatran Orangutans in the wild. They’re gentle animals and very smart.

Orangutan is an old Indonesian word meaning ‘forest person’, and true to their name, these great apes spend most of their time in the trees, where they use their long flexible arms to find fruit and leaves.

Orangutan Conservation Status

The Sumatran Orangutan is critically endangered, and there are less than 15,000 left in the wild. This is because their habitats are being destroyed on a large scale to make way for palm oil plantations.

The total number of Sumatran Orangutans has decreased by 80% in the last 75 years, and sadly it’s expected to keep shrinking, with extinction on the horizon unless major changes are made in Indonesia and Malaysia.

Orangutans are a protected species in Indonesia, but government enforcement is weak even when the animals are killed illegally. Palm oil farming has taken priority because it brings more value to the economy.

Indonesia is still a relatively poor country, and that’s especially true in Sumatra where tourism isn’t a big player yet, so money speaks. And unfortunately that continues to motivate palm oil farming, illegal logging, the illegal wildlife trade, etc.

Hopefully the tourist money flowing into places like the Bukit Lawang orangutan sanctuary will help incentivize the proper protection of these animals so we can keep enjoying them in the future.

Bukit Lawang Trekking Prices & Length

Most tourists wanting to see the Sumatran Orangutan choose the 1 day trek ($60/pax) or 2 day trek ($100/pax). Bukit Lawang trekking prices are pretty similar across companies.

Treks of up to 7 days are available and you get to go deeper into the jungle like that, but I question how ethical it is, because critically endangered species like the Sumatran Tiger and Sumatran Rhino need all the space they can get.

Keep in mind, the Sumatran rainforests have already shrunk massively to make way for palm oil plantations (and due to illegal logging), and sadly that trend is continuing. There are less than 100 Sumatran Rhinos left in the wild.

Personally I think the 1 day trek at Bukit Lawang is the best bang for your buck, requires the least amount of work, and leaves the least ‘footprint’ on the ecosystem. That’s my opinion. We saw plenty of orangutans and other wildlife on the 1 day trek.

Natural tree swing from a jungle vine!

Best Bukit Lawang Jungle Trekking Tour

If you’re looking for a vetted tour company for seeing the Sumatran Orangutan, here’s a Bukit Lawang jungle trekking tour with Klook starting at $60 USD (850k IDR) for a 1 day trek or $100 for a 2 day trek.

This pretty closely mirrors the Bukit Lawang trekking prices we saw advertised in town, and it also includes hotel transfers (from Bukit Lawang or Medan), along with the national park permit fees, meals, and optional river tubing.

We’ve used Klook for lots of tours and activities around the world, and they’re great! Highly recommended.

Book Now: Bukit Lawang Jungle Trekking

Morning mist

Where To Stay In Bukit Lawang

Bukit Lawang is a cozy riverside town with lots of budget friendly hotels that are basic, but comfortable.

Here are some of our top picks:

• Green Travelodge – Best rated hotel in town, with a tree house theme – 335k IDR ($24 USD)
• Thomas Retreat – Hotel and restaurant with fan or A/C rooms plus WiFi – 195k IDR ($14)
• Garden Inn – Standard rooms with a garden view – 210k IDR ($15)
• Hotel Orangutan – Family luxury room (sleeps 6) with balcony – 2.5 Mil IDR ($180)
• Rainforest Guesthouse Bukit Lawang – Budget friendly option for backpackers – 60k IDR ($4)

These prices may fluctuate from time to time, so just keep an eye out for a good deal. Hotels in Bukit Lawang can fill up though, so it’s a good idea to book something in advance.

Green Travelodge Bukit Lawang

Other Tips For Bukit Lawang

• ATM: From the town of Bukit Lawang, the nearest ATM is about 10 kilometers away, so make sure you bring enough cash. You can also pay things by bank transfer. Credit cards aren’t accepted.
• Hotels: Expect cold showers and fans only, no air conditioning. We were never hot at night. Electricity is stable, but sometimes there are short outages.
• WiFi: Most places only have limited WiFi in the lobby/restaurant area, or none at all.
• Cell Service: Telkomsel has good 3G/4G reception in the town. We used this for a hotspot at times when we couldn’t reach our hotel WiFi.
• Restaurants: Many hotels have in-house restaurants for their guests, although you can eat at one of the restaurants in town if you’d like. We ate all of our meals at our hotel, Thomas Retreat , which had great Western and Indonesian food at reasonable prices (also good WiFi).
• Safety: We spent months traveling as a couple in North Sumatra and overall it’s very safe. Just take normal precautions. If you’re a solo female traveler, you can ask about joining a trekking group with other tourists.
• Monkeys: There are lots of cheeky macaques that visit the town every day. Most of the time they are good entertainment, but remember to close your hotel windows at night and keep an eye on your belongings or they might make off with them!
• Mosquitoes: According to this Lancet study from 2018, Malaria is rare in this part of Sumatra. I’ve never heard of a tourist getting Malaria from mosquitoes in Bukit Lawang. However, it’s still a very good idea to sleep inside a mosquito net and wear repellant while out and about, just in case. Malaria can be nasty and dangerous.
• More Things To Do: There’s a bat cave near Bukit Lawang town that you can visit on a short trekking tour. However, the best day trips are to Batu Katak to see the rare giant flowers, or Tangkahan to see the elephant sanctuary. You can find more info on these places below.

More Things To Do Near Bukit Lawang

• batu katak: rafflesia & titan flower trekking.

Batu Katak is another small village on the east side of Gunung Leuser National Park where you can do flower trekking to see the giant Rafflesia and Titan Arum, two of the biggest flowers in the world!

This was one of the best highlights of our visit to North Sumatra. The Titan Arum flowers can grow to be 3 meters (10 feet) tall! There’s also several limestone water caves to see near Batu Katak, but I had an injured leg so we didn’t get to do the cave treks yet.

Batu Katak is 40 minutes south of the Bukit Lawang orangutan sanctuary. You can message Joe on WhatsApp ( ☎ +62 812-6340-3452 ) and he can arrange your pickup, trekking, and other info. He was a huge help for planning our trip.

• Tangkahan Elephant Sanctuary

The Tangkahan Elephant Sanctuary is a small settlement 2 hours north of Bukit Lawang where you can play with semi-wild Sumatran Elephants by the river!

Elephant tourism gets a bad rap nowadays, but these animals are critically endangered in Indonesia because their habitat is disappearing, and tourist money may be the only way to correct it. The elephants are well cared for, have lots of freedom of movement, and seemed very happy when we visited.

They have 9 rescued elephants ( a new baby was just born ) and you can pet them, feed them, and help bathe them in the river. It was a great experience!

It’s possible to visit Tangkahan on a day trip from Bukit Lawang, or if you want more time with the elephants there are some hotels in Tangkahan too.

Book Now: Tangkahan Elephant Encounter

Tangkahan Elephant Sanctuary

When To Visit Bukit Lawang

Gunung Leuser National Park has a tropical rainforest climate that doesn’t follow the same weather patterns as the rest of Indonesia. You can find a monthly breakdown here .

I wouldn’t stress about when to visit. Every month is rainy at Bukit Lawang, because it’s a rainforest! The driest months are February, March, June, and July, but the rainfall is still much higher than places like Bali.

We went in December and the weather was good for trekking. The rain usually comes in the evenings or at night, and only lasts a few hours max.

Most tourists do their Bukit Lawang jungle trekking in June – August, and in the high season there are hundreds of them trekking per day. So if you want to avoid the crowds, pick a different month.

Happy travels!

More Indonesia Travel Tips

Thanks for looking! I hope you enjoyed these Bukit Lawang blog tips for visiting the orangutan sanctuary in North Sumatra.

Don’t forget to check out my complete guide for the best places to visit in Indonesia !  

• Most Beautiful Indonesian Islands - Best Places To Visit In Indonesia
• Best Hikes In Indonesia - Volcanoes, Jungles, & Waterfalls
• Indonesia Waterfall Guide - Best Waterfalls In Indonesia
• Indonesia Beach Guide - Best Beaches In Indonesia
• Best Things To Do In Indonesia - What To Do In The Islands
• Indonesia Travel Guide - Tips, Info, & Photos

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Is it cheaper to book a trek once you’re in Buwit Lawang or is it similar prices to booking online (between $40-$60 for a 1 day trek)?

Hi Zofia. From what we saw, the prices are pretty similar either way.

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Gunung Leuser National Park

• 1.1.1 Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre
• 1.2 Landscape
• 1.3 Flora and fauna
• 1.4 Climate
• 2.1 By plane
• 3 Get around
• 4 Fees and permits
• 6.1.1 Wildlife trekking
• 6.1.2 Mountain trekking
• 6.2 River activities
• 6.3 Roundtrips around Sumatra
• 6.4 Volunteer
• 10.1 Lodging
• 10.2 Camping
• 10.3 Backcountry
• 10.4.1 Bukit Lawang
• 10.4.2 Tangkahan
• 10.4.3 Ketambe
• 10.4.4 Kedah
• 10.4.5 Kutacane
• 11 Stay safe

Gunung Leuser National Park is a large Indonesian national park covering 950,000 hectares in northern Sumatra , straddling the border of the provinces of North Sumatra and Aceh .

Understand [ edit ]

The village of Bukit Lawang is in the park 90 km northwest of Medan. It is most famous for being one of the last places in the world where one can see orangutans in the wild. Bukit Lawang is situated at the eastern side of Gunung Leuser National Park. As Bukit Lawang is near Medan, it can get crowded during the weekend, especially during the public holiday period (June-beginning of July). Try to avoid the weekends (full guesthouses, large and numerous trekking groups).

Make your plans to go for either half a day trekking or a full day trekking as a miminimum to see the Orang Hutans and other wild animals in the forest

Ketambe village is another option — quiet, not crowded, wild. There is a research station at Ketembe. It is not open to the public.

History [ edit ]

The park is named after one of its highest points, the 3,381-m Mount Leuser ( Gunung Leuser ). The Gunung Leuser National Park was originally created as a wildlife reserve.

Along with the two other National Parks ( Kerinci Seblat and Bukit Barisan Selatan ) on the island, it comprises the UNESCO World Heritage site of 'The Tropical Rainforest Heritage of Sumatra' (status since 2004).

Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre [ edit ]

In 1973 a Swiss organization set up an orangutan rehabilitation centre in Bukit Lawang (Bukit Lawang literally means "door to the hills"). The purpose of the centre was to rehabilitate orangutans released from captivity. The rangers at the centre teach the orangutan all the necessary skills to survive in the wild. After an intense period of quarantine, readjustment to the natural habitat and reintegration into the (semi-)wild population, the orangutan is released back into the jungle. All orangutans released are still monitored by the rangers and they still provide them with supplementary food at the feeding platform until they become fully self-reliant.

In the years after the arrival of the rehabilitation center more and more tourists found their way to Bukit Lawang and it became one of the most popular destinations in Sumatra. The feeding center was closed several years ago. All orangutans from the center have been slowly released to the wild. Now you can only see orangutans in the wild while guided trekking in the national park.

A flash flood hit Bukit Lawang on 2 November 2003. Described by witnesses as a tidal wave, the water was approximately 20 meters high, as it came crashing down the hills, wiping out everything in its path. The disaster, which was the result of illegal logging, destroyed the local tourist resorts and had a devastating impact to the local tourism industry. Around 400 houses, 3 mosques, 8 bridges, 280 kiosks and food stalls, 35 inns and guest houses were destroyed by the flood, and 239 people (5 of them tourists) were killed and around 1,400 locals lost their homes. Bukit Lawang was re-opened in 2004.

For many villagers the trauma of losing family, friends and their homes has taken a long time to come to terms with. The people were facing unemployment and homelessness. It has been a long road to recovery and an especially hard task to rebuild a town with only limited financial assistance from the government. However the people in Bukit Lawang are survivors and the new village is taking shape and more and more businesses are opening again.

Especially the young generation is hoping to rebuild the village in more sustainable way than before and they are very aware of the importance of preservation of the fragile ecosystem they live in. They can use all the support they can get and the income of tourism will help them in realizing their ideas for a brighter future for Bukit Lawang.

Landscape [ edit ]

Part of the Barisan mountain range lies within the park. The highest peak, and the park's namesake, Gunung Leuser can be climbed. Much of the park is steep and inaccessible.

Flora and fauna [ edit ]

Seeing the orangutans is a magical experience. About 10,000 live in this area. In Bukit Lawang, you can usually see them near the rehabilitation centre and at the feeding platform during the morning and afternoon feeding sessions. In Ketambe, you can go to 1- to 7-day treks into the jungle.

The best experience is an encounter in the jungle where there are many semi-wild and wild animals. The wild orangutan can be difficult to spot unless you go deep into the jungle. There are also white and black gibbons that make an amazing noise calling out to each other, and Thomas Leaf monkeys . If you are lucky, you may be able to see hornbills, toucans, moon snakes, monitor lizards.

Since there are very few (hundreds) still alive, it is very improbable that either the Sumatran Tiger or the Sumatran Rhinoceros will be encountered, although footprints and droppings have been reported. If you really want to see a tiger, you have to go deep, and be patient (waiting for weeks).

For elephants , go to Tangkahan or near Ketambe, where you can trek further into the jungle to try and spot wild elephants.

Climate [ edit ]

During the wet season, October to March, expect rain at least daily, towards the late afternoon and early evening. Intensity varies, but invariably the monsoonal rains always arrive. Climate is always very humid, so pack a lot of drinking water if you are trekking.

Get in [ edit ]

By plane [ edit ].

Medan holds the nearest big airport for accessing the region.

For Ketambe or hiking Gunung Leuser, you could fly to Kutacane from Medan (30 min) or Banda Aceh (on Wednesdays and Fridays).

First of all, consider the huge ecological footprint of taking a plane! Going by bus may be a better choice if you want to save the forests.

The flights fill very quickly so make sure you book as soon as you can. Note also that the airline flying is on a contract basis and from time to time when the contract finishes there are times when there are no flights until a new contract is signed.

From Kutacane you'll need to continue by road (with labi-labi).

By bus [ edit ]

• From Bukit Lawang - Medan - a one-way bus fare on large, non air-conditioned buses from Medan (Pinang Baris Bus Terminal) to Bukit Lawang, 86 km by road to the north-west, was Rp 20,000 per person (in 2015), 3-4 hours. There should be buses every 30 minutes, but sometimes some are skipped. Back to Medan, you can take a minibus (Rp 12,000 per person (2008)) or a large bus (Rp 10,000, but they might ask for more). They alternate every 15 minutes from Bukit Lawang Bus Terminal.
• From Kutacane - Medan - the companies BTN and Karsima run several public minibuses a day (and one overnight) between the two (7 hours, Rp 50,000, 2011). They leave from their ticket offices. They usually go via Berastagi where you can flag them down or hop off if you wish to make the detour.
• From Ketambe - Banda Aceh - there is a company that runs public minibuses directly, through the mountains (16 hours, Rp 220,000, 2014).
• From Kutacane - Lake Toba - there is one company that runs public minibuses to Sidikalang (6 hours, Rp 100,000, in 2014), there you will change bus to Pangururan (2 hours, Rp 20,000, in 2014), finally to TukTuk (2 hours, Rp 15,000, in 2014).
• To Ketambe from Kutacane - take a local mobil from the station by the market in Kutacane (about 1 hour, Rp 15,000, 2014).

Another option is to take a taxi from the airport or hotel in Medan to Pinang Baris (no more than Rp 50,000). Do not get off at the big terminal: tell your driver to go on, just a bit past there is a bakery called Mawar. From there you can get a minibus (max Rp 20,000) or the big coach (max Rp 15,000). The big coach is government-run but minivans are private. They will stop many times along the way and in Binjai (about 40 minutes from Medan) they may stop for half an hour to fill up. The last stop, where you get off, is normally the bus terminal in Gotong Royong, a village 5 minutes from Bukit Lawang. From here you can get a becak (motorbike/sidecar/tuktuk type thing) for Rp 10,000. This should drop you at the national park office in Bukit Lawang and you can then find your guest house.

There are many drivers offering minivans from the Belawan ferry terminal direct to Bukit Lawang, bargain hard. Expect to be shifted minivan at least once (in Medan). Prices vary between Rp 60,000 and 70,000 all the way to Bukit Lawang. The extra cost should outweigh the hassle of getting into Medan, finding the bus station, then finding a hostel in Bukit Lawang (especially if you arrive during a torrential downpour). The driver will usually recommend a family or friend's hostel.

You can go by tourist bus (minivan 5-7 persons;) from Parapat (Lake Toba; Rp 130,000/person) or Berastagi to Bukit Lawang. Tickets can be bought at local tour agencies; but sometimes they run the vehicle as speed driver; to reach the arrival place; just check it out and made a good decision for the transportation

By car [ edit ]

From Bukit Lawang - Medan - If you prefer the convenience of an air-conditioned transfer - a private car can be arranged for airport or your Medan hotel pick-up. Many Bukit Lawang hotels will arrange this service for you in conjunction with an accommodation booking. If you are a little more adventurous car rentals are also readily available in Medan for approximately Rp 350,000 a day

Get around [ edit ]

The villages consist of little more than the guesthouses, a few local residences and the odd shop or cafe. You can walk around but there's not much to see or do!

• To Tangkahan from Bukit Lawang - it is about 2 hours by motorbike over dirt roads. Rates for arranging guides to drive you by motorbike to Tangkahan from Bukit Lawang were Rp 220,000 for 3 motorbikes and 3 guides to drive the bikes there and take them back. The rainy season can make sections of this route impassable. In Bukit Lawang in 2007 there were two guides, Romi and Wanda, who did jeep trips down to Tangkahan.
• To get to Kedah from Ketembe you must go via Blangkejeren. It takes about 3 hours.

Fees and permits [ edit ]

Permits need to be arranged at a PHPA office before entering the park. The fee is Rp 150,000 per person.

In Bukit Lawang this can also be paid at the orangutan feeding ground. The permit should be included in all treks and jungle activities, but check with the guide to be sure.

In Ketembe your guesthouse may ask for your passport to register you with the authorities. If you have copies of your passport (including the visa page) you can give them those instead.

See [ edit ]

• Wild monkeys: gibbons, orangutans in the rainforest near Ketambe
• Bat Cave near Bukit Lawang
• Elephant Camp at Tangkahan
• Various waterfalls in the jungle
• Landak river

Do [ edit ]

The number one reason to go to Gunung Leuser National Park is for a trek, whether that's mountain trekking or trekking to spot wildlife.

Trekking [ edit ]

A jungle trek is a must. Seeing the orangutan in the wild may be one of the best experiences you will have in your life.

It is not permitted to go unaccompanied into the jungle. There are plenty of good and reliable guides around so take your time to get to know some of them, have a chat, make your choice and prepare for a great adventure. Ask questions and ask them if they follow the rules and do not feed orangutans or any other wildlife. Ask if they will actually be your guide or if they will pass you on to another group. It has happened that travellers pay their money and get sold off and end up in a group of 10 people. Ask how many people will be in the group.

It is a good idea to ask for information at the guest houses... if anything goes wrong or you are not happy you can complain to them. And they have a reputation to keep up.

A fixed price for Bukit Lawang jungle treks is €55 per day. A 2-day trek including rafting is €90 and a 3-day trek including rafting is €120. Prices in Ketambe are generally cheaper starting at Rp 350,000 per person per day for group trips. It is illegal to pay for services in Indonesia in a foreign currency, despite many of the guides stating their prices in euro.

In Bukit Lawang it has happened quite often that some guides have fed orangutan some human food during a trek just to coax the wild animals to pose for tourists. Several orangutan have gotten sick or died for this reason. You should never get close to or call or feed any of the animals, even if your guide irresponsibly tells you it is OK.

Even though sightings of the orangutan and other wildlife can never be guaranteed, when following the instructions of your guide the chances are favorable.

Another hero is the Thomas Leaf Monkey. Such a wonderful creature that leaps into air with wild abandon as they move from tree to tree. Their mohawk hair styles and faces filled with millions of years of character really make these little guys stand out.

If you want to go on a multiple day trek make sure you are fit and in good condition. The humidity coupled with the intensity of grade of the hills makes for some hard work. The reward at the end of your jungle adventure is a late afternoon paddle in the river back to the village.

Everyone who is planning to go on a jungle trek is asked to refrain from any physical contact with the orangutans. Getting too close to an orangutan increases the risk of passing on disease and viral infection, which jeopardizes the orangutan's chances of survival and in turn the health and survival of the wild orangutan population in the entire area. All guests should keep at least 10 meters away and move away if an orangutan approaches. The motto of any jungle adventure should be take only pictures, leave only footprints .

Another popular past time activity is tubing. When tubing one uses an inner tube to float down the river. Tubes can be rented at various stalls along the village and expect pay around Rp 10,000 per tube. Be careful on the water because currents are strong.

You can also visit the bat cave for Rp 10,000 (make sure to take a flashlight), make a stroll around the rice fields and rubber plantations, visit some of the social projects (like the Children's Home on the way to the bat cave), visit the Friday market or just hang out with some of the locals and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere.

Wildlife trekking [ edit ]

A wide range of treks into the jungle looking for wildlife are available in Bukit Lawang, Ketembe and Tangkahan. There are many tours from 1 to 3 days (sleeping in the jungle) but more or less can probably be arranged too.

• Bukit Lawang - it's highly recommended to do a trek with one of the official rangers from the Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre as there can be problems with guides feeding the orangutans to ensure tourists get a sighting.
• Ketembe - you will see real wild living orangutans (in Bukit Lawang the orangutans are all rehabilitated semi-wild), monkeys and many kind of birds. It's not uncommon to see other mammals such as gibbons, barking deer, civet cats, binturong, mouse deer and leopard cats. There are also Sumatran elephants, tigers and rhinos, but these are incredibly rare to see. On a 2- to 3-day trip you can go to a natural hot spring inside the jungle and camp over there. The treks are not very strenuous as the emphasis is on finding wildlife not hiking. On a longer trip (7-10 days) you can go deeper into the jungle and look for some shy tigers or explore remote jungle wilderness. (Prices: Rp 350,000 per person per day, 2014)
• Kedah - there is jungle trekking around Pucuk Angkasan. Guides: Mr Jally and Pak Umar.
• Tangkahan has about 7 elephants and very few tourists. Guides there charge Rp 180,000 for guided jungle treks, though just seeing the elephants is very cheap and rides on the elephants are negotiable.
• Elephant trekking through the jungle in Tangkahan

Mountain trekking [ edit ]

These are all multi-day treks.

• Gunung Leuser - the best starting points are the villages near Blangkejeren. The trek from Kedah to the Gunung Leuser peak and back takes 10 days in total. Guides charge Rp 350,000/day/person. Since the trek is about 70% in alpine regions, you will not see too much wildlife, but exciting flora. For wildlife you better choose a trek to Gunung Angkosan (2 days) or to upper Alas valley (4 days).
• Gunung Kemiri - the best starting point is Ketembe.

River activities [ edit ]

• Tubing in Bukit Lawang
• Rafting along the Alas River, Ketembe
• Bathe in hot springs in the jungle near Ketembe

Roundtrips around Sumatra [ edit ]

After your Bukit Lawang adventure you can also explore other parts of the island like Lake Toba or Berastagi. Discover Sumatra specializes in organising tailor-made trips.

Volunteer [ edit ]

• We Care Program . This school provides free English lessons, lessons on the environment and key skills to disadvantaged children in Bukit Lawang. They appreciate any time you can give: You can join them for one lesson or volunteer long-term. They provide free accommodation for long-term volunteers. Visitors to the school are also welcome. You can also pay to trek with the teachers; proceeds will go to the school. ( updated Aug 2016 )

Buy [ edit ]

In Bukit Lawang during the low season not all shops are open on weekdays, however in the weekend there are several small shops that sell the locally made coconut necklaces and clothes. Also there is a small shop selling bamboo souvenirs, like key chains, picture frames, etc. There are also a few shops that sell wood carvings and at the beginning is Genta's batik shop, selling traditional batik paintings.

There are only very small shops in Ketembe selling not much more than packets of biscuits and bottles of water. Buy everything you need in Kutacane or elsewhere.

Eat [ edit ]

All of the guesthouses have restaurants, usually with both Indonesian and Western food available. When trekking, your guide should provide all your food.

• Green Hill ( Bukit Lawang ). Has great views of the jungle and their food is great. The restaurant is a lovely open plan space and a good menu and is brilliant for vegetarians, e.g. banana and chocolate pancakes, tempe rendang, veggie curry.  
• Indra Valley Inn and Resto ( Bukit Lawang ). Have a wonderful riverside location with jungle views. The restaurant & bar offer offer a variety of delicious fresh meals and snacks with a good variety of vegetarian options. Ask the staff about their river surfing - for those wanting to work up an appetite before they dine.  
• Jungle Tribe ( Bukit Lawang ). A cocktail bar and restaurant owned by Erika-Canadian woman and her husband Agun. Situated next door to Sam's restaurant across the road from Sam's Bungalows- 3 very pleasant rooms with great views of the river.  
• Sam's Bungalows ( Bukit Lawang ). Right next door to Jungle Tribe cocktail bar, this restaurant has the best in panoramic views of the river. Sam's cook uses an array of herbs and spices that give her cooking an extra dimension. Try the Gado Gado special. All the curries are rich in flavor, filled with nutritious and natural food.  
• Tony's Restaurant ( Bukit Lawang ). Serves excellent home made pizza for those craving a touch of the west. The best spaghetti this side of Roma and a great tasting Gado Gado for those seeking some of the local fare.  
• Yusri Cafe ( Bukit Lawang ). Situated across from the National Park Ticket Office. A very homely feeling cafe with Yusuf and Rita (with Rita & her mum doing all the cooking) taking care of you. Serving tasty local food at local prices with decent portion sizes. Good western selection of food for breakfast. Nasi Goreng Rp 8,000, Nasi Ayam Rp 10,000, Black Tea/Coffee Rp 2,000 with milk Rp 5,000, Banana toast Rp 7,000, Banana Pancake Rp 8,000.  

Drink [ edit ]

Guesthouses sell a range of drinks and when trekking your guide should bring enough water but you may wish to check this. At sunset a great place for a Bintang is the terrace at the Eco Lodge. The friendly folks there will serve you up a cold beer and you can watch the colours change over the town and river below.

Sleep [ edit ]

Lodging [ edit ].

Arranged by your guide when wildlife trekking.

Camping [ edit ]

Backcountry [ edit ].

Your guide should cover all your requirements for accommodation in the jungle, even right down to leech socks if required. Make sure you take enough dry clothes as it's so humid nothing will dry once wet.

In the Kutacane region the electricity supply can be a bit variable so don't leave charging your camera until the morning you head out to the jungle!

Nearby [ edit ]

Bukit lawang [ edit ].

In order of position up the pathway by the river in Bukit Lawang.

• Jungle Inn ( directly opposite the orangutan sanctuary ), ☏ +62 822 7637 2436 (Alde) . Offers reasonably priced rooms, but slightly inflated prices for food by Sumatran standards. 'Honeymoon Suite' for Rp 350,000 and the 'penthouse' for over Rp 450,000 .  
• Back to Nature , Jungle ( Must contact Aca ), ☏ +6281375400921 , [email protected] . Only place to stay that's in the jungle, not the town. 4 rooms, all with balcony. Family style meals. Free coffee and tea. Private waterfall bathing. 120 hectares of private jungle. Eco-resort. Dutch spoken. US$15-25 . ( updated Jun 2015 )
• Bukit Lawang Cottages . Also known as 'Eco Lodge' (just across the river from main village at the base of the hill and where the walking tracks start), is a good option if you arrive late in the day. It's also one of the main places to eat/drink at night and meet in the morning for treks. Start from Rp 80,000 .  
• Bukit Lawang - Homestay ( in Gotong-royong, a little village next to Bukit Lawang ), ☏ +6282161735162 , [email protected] . They welcome backpackers or families. There are lots of local children in the neighborhood and there is a sport field next to the house for playing badminton. Gotong Royong is a quiet place and there hardly any other tourists. So if you want to get a taste of Indonesian culture, learn how to cook Indonesian food and speak Bahasa Indonesia, then a homestay in Gotong Royong is a good choice. Rp 100,000 per night . ( updated Aug 2016 )
• Garden Inn , ☏ +62 81396000571 (Pardil) . Not far from Jungle Inn is another pleasant place to stay in Bukit Lawang. Nice double bed rooms with cold shower. Around Rp 50,000 to 60,0000 .  
• 3.54936 98.11779 1 Green Hill Guesthouse & Eco Trekking , ☏ +6281263643775 (Andrea), +6281370349124 (Mbra) , [email protected] . 5 rooms built high up behind their beautiful open-air building with incredible views. Simple room with shared bathroom for Rp 60,000; treetop bungalows are Rp 150,000; treetop chalet is Rp 250,000 . ( updated Nov 2022 )
• 3.54922 98.1176 2 Indra Valley Inn & Trekking , Bukit Lawang , ☏ +6281397375818 , [email protected] . Directly at the river at your left hand side when you walk to the orang utan centre. Certain rooms have hot showers. Great restaurant & bar with healthy food for reasonable prices. Owner and operator Obiwan is a very experienced (third generation) trekking guide. Jungle view accommodation with balcony and river view between Rp 200,000 and 600,000 . ( updated Nov 2022 )
• Junias Guesthouse and Brando Resto ( Junias Guesthouse ) ( Must contact Anang ), ☏ +62 81 396 77 2804 , [email protected] . Enjoy both scenic river and forest sounds as you relax at junias guesthouse. Situated between Gunung Leuser National Park and the Bohorok River – the perfect place to stay in Bukit Lawang for trekking, tubing, enjoying Indonesian culture and food. Whether backpacking through or on holiday, Junia’s is a new, jungle-style guesthouse with comfortable and beautiful rooms. Offers very cheap rooms and discount for long staying. Also offer some services such as jungle trekking, and traditional jungle survival skills course. Rp 100,000 - 300,000 .  
• Jungle Border ( on the opposite side of the river to the main village and the last resort before the jungle (hense the name jungle border) ). New resort run by a nice and friendly young family with two beautiful river facing huts one with shower and toilet and the other without. Quiet location with good food and cold beer, the perfect place to chill out. Price ranges from Rp 80,000 to 150,000 depending on which hut you take and the time of the year .  
• Jungle Tribe , ☏ +6281361746375 (Agun) . A free standing house with 'a bar and restaurant' next door. Rp 250,000 per night .  
• Lucky Bamboo , ☏ +62 812 63942745 . Right after the fancy Junias, the youngsters owners of the cottage will welcome you with a big smile (as often in Bukit Lawang) The cheapest bungalows, with the path to enter the Nation Park next to you, Lucky Bamboo can be the perfect option. No WiFi, but also no party or noise at night. Five to six bungalows around their house. if you take the front ones, you will sleep with the music of the river flowing. Just tell the guide you will probably meet at the bus station to drive you there. Rp 50,000 for a double bed bungalow (bathroom attached) .  
• Mama Anas Homestay ( in Lambo village, 10 minutes from Bukit Lawang by local bus ), [email protected] . A great location in the rice paddy fields with amazing views of the mountains. She has 2 really nice rooms and you will get to meet her children: a great way to experience a bit of real life. She and her husband both speak good English. ( updated Sep 2020 )
• Plan's Stone . Lovely bungalows next to the river, across the bridge from town. En-suite toilet and shower (cold water). Local family owned and run. Great service, friendly, welcoming, and authentic. Rp 50,000 with delicious Nasi Goreng breakfast and tea throughout the day. (April 2012)  
• Wisma Bukit Lawang Indah . Across the river next door to Yusman which is next door to Wisma Sibayak . Cheap rooms with a double and single bed go for Rp 35,000. Bukit Lawang Indah has excellent cheap food  

Tangkahan [ edit ]

• Bamboo River . Owned by an English woman Jane and her Indonesian husband Wayan Rp 50,000-70,000 .  
• Jungle Lodge . Owned by a German woman Sylvia and her Indonesian husband Alex Rp 50,000-70,000 .  
• Mega Inn . A third smaller, cheaper, backpacker place owned by one of the English speaking guides Mega. Mega's 3 rooms are next door to Bamboo River.  
• Sam's , ☏ +62 81370093597 (Samsul) . 3 lovely rooms with prices from Rp 100,000-200,000 .  
• Terrario Tangkahan . Luxurious villas owned by renowned Indonesian actor and film producer, Nicholas Saputra. From Rp 1,000,000 . ( updated Sep 2020 )

Ketambe [ edit ]

All the guesthouses are very similar, have restaurants and can arrange tours. They are all along the main road and offer accommodation in wooden bungalows with bathroom from about Rp 70,000 for a very basic room.

• Friendship Guesthouse .  
• Our Jungle Ecolodge . Permaculture ecolodge run by local guide Safar Ketambe opening in 2023.  
• Pak Mus Homestay .  
• Pondok Wisata .  
• Sadar Wisata .  
• Wisma Cinta Alam , [email protected] . Guide: Johan  
• Ketambe Gurah Guesthouse , https://ketambegurah.wordpress.com/ , This ex-governmental Eco Resort is the only one that sits right in the Gunung Leuser Park and is now run by a very lovely family; it is located approx. 1 km after the village on the left side. Wildlife of all sorts are visible within the close area and/or from the balcony. The chalet sits close to the Alas river and offers spacious rooms (cold shower, no A/C). This accommodation was built several decades ago and is getting run down. It looks like the jungle is starting to take it over!

Kedah [ edit ]

• Rainforest Lodge .  

Kutacane [ edit ]

If you arrive too late for onward travel, there are a handful of options in the town.

• Hotel Maroon , Jalan Ahmad Yani, No. 15-17 ( signposted from the main road ), ☏ +62 629 21078 . Has four different quality rooms from basic rooms with a shared bathroom to much nicer rooms. Ekonomi: Rp 60,000; Standard: Rp 90,000/95,000 .  

Stay safe [ edit ]

Some guides can get quite flirtatious/annoying with the girls during trekking trips esp in Bukit Lawang so team up with a larger group during a hike if travelling as a single female or pair. It is perfectly safe for female travellers here but do dress to the conservative standards of the area for your own safety. Don't wear bikinis or tight fitting and low cut t-shirts. Solo female travellers who seek a bit of reassurance should check with the guesthouses and arrange to go trekking with other travellers. Green Hill and Sam's Bungalows have good reputations for solo travellers. Any woman who experiences sexual harassment in any form in Bukit Lawang should report the incident immediately to the Guides Association at +62-813-70730151 (Bahrum the leader). Also make sure you get a photo of the guide as well.

When travelling down the river rapids on the rubber tyres, do not go past the bridge. There are narrow drains and sharper rocks the closer you get to the village.

Keep your villa doors and windows closed when you are not around, the long tailed macaques like to get inside and raid your belongings for food.

Unbranded or unfamiliar branded or even unsealed bottled liquor or alcohol is best to be avoided as it may be too harsh for you and you might be end up hospitalized.

Go next [ edit ]

• From Bukit Lawang, Tangkahan could be an interesting delve further into the National Park. Otherwise head back to Medan for connections elsewhere.
• From Ketambe, you could go on to Kedah to switch from wildlife trekking to mountain climbing.
• There are regular buses from Kutacane to Medan which pass through mountain town Berastagi (home to Sibayak and Sinabung volcanoes). Or change direction and head up to Banda Aceh .

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Wild encounters on a trek through the Sumatran jungle

So, you’re ready to pull your hiking boots out of storage and book an adventure to experience Sumatra’s steamy jungle wilderness? We don’t blame you.  

This UNESCO-listed National Park in Northern Sumatra is marked with natural wonders at every turn. It’s home to countless endangered species, including Sumatran tigers, rhinoceros and elephants, and it’s one of the only places on earth where orangutans still thrive in the wild. I recently got to check it out on an incredible overnight trek through Gunung Leuser National Park on the 9-day Sumatra Adventure in Indonesia.  

Here’s the lowdown on everything you can expect – and everything you need to know – about spending two days trekking in Gunung Leuser with expert guides.

1. You’ll experience incredible wildlife encounters

Gunung Leuser is one of the most biodiverse forests on the planet and home to the world’s densest population of orangutans. Approximately 5,000 orangutans call this park home. So you can be confident that trekking here will serve up some exceptional wildlife spotting opportunities.

I can’t make any serious promises – wildlife encounters are unpredictable at best, after all – but you do have a (really) good chance of seeing orangutans on this trip. And let me tell you, witnessing orangutans swinging from the vines above you will be a sight you won’t soon forget. The expert local guides accompanying my group along the trek were so committed to making sure we came face-to-face with these gentle giants of the forest that they even ran ahead in search of them before leading our group to meet them.

Plus, you’re likely to share your trek with Thomas Leaf monkeys, macaques and other vine-swinging wildlife. You can also look out for peacocks on the forest floor, and keep your eye on the skies to spot rarer hornbills and other birdlife.

2. You’ll get closer to nature 

This isn’t your average walking track with well-worn paths and signposts along the way. This is the real jungle experience – it’s wild and remote, and it’s probably not like anything else you’ve experienced. You’ll be able to lean on your expert local guides to lead the way and chop through the odd vine or overhanging shrubbery where necessary. But you should know, it’ll be sweaty, muddy and kind of… leechy? There, I said it. In all honesty, the rugged nature of this trek really defines the adventure, so embrace the gritty essence of it. And if you wear appropriate hiking gear, the leeches aren’t so bad – I promise. 

3. You’ll disconnect (in the best way) 

There’s no wi-fi in the jungle. Shocking. But there’s something special about immersing yourself in nature and something even more special about not having phone reception to immediately tell your Instagram following all about it. You’ll embark on this trek knowing it’ll be filled with memory-making experiences; knowing that you’re going to witness some very special things but what you won’t necessarily realise until you get there is just how refreshing disconnecting from real life can be.  

When I stepped out of the jungle on day two, I left my wi-fi switched off a little longer than necessary, not quite ready to dive back into reality. 

4. You’ll dig into some tasty local eats

You’re hiking in some of the world’s most remote wilderness, sharing the area with endangered Sumatran tigers and elephants, so you’d be forgiven for thinking that the catering on your trek would be minimalist to say the least. But you would be wrong. We refuelled regularly and tucked into some of the most delectable local eats during this trek, just like all true adventurers should.  

Our local guides carried plenty of snacks like fruits and crackers, and our picnic lunch and dinner beneath the jungle canopy featured stir-fried noodles, tempeh, curried vegetables, rice and more. Bon appetit! 

5. You’ll sleep beneath the canopy 

After a day spent trekking through the jungle, spotting orangutans swinging above and eating all of the best Sumatran picnic treats my heart desired, the icing on the cake was getting to camp in this lush UNESCO paradise. You can forget your evening meditation music – instead, you’ll be lulled to sleep by the sounds of the jungle around you. Think crickets singing, leaves rustling and the soft sound of a running stream if you’re lucky enough to camp by the water. I woke up to a homemade breakfast of nasi goreng prepared by our guides and smiled to myself as I enjoyed my last few hours in the jungle, knowing this adventure is one few others will ever experience. 

Our hot tip: if you haven’t watched the Our Great National Parks series hosted by Barack Obama yet, skip to episode five: Gunung Leuser, Indonesia . If this blog isn’t enough to make you want to book your spot on our  Sumatran Adventure , like, yesterday, this episode certainly will be. 

Feeling inspired?

Danielle McDonald

Dani is a copywriter and storyteller whose love for words is matched only by her love for travel. She's gone far and wide in the pursuit of adventure and, to dig a little deeper into local cultures, she's lived in several countries around the world. She's now based on the sunny Gold Coast, Australia, although she still feels most at home when she's on the road.

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Bukit Lawang Adventure

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• 6-day Bukit Lawang – Berastagi Tour
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See wildlife up close

Experience real jungle, go on an adventure.

Jungle Trekking

Bukit Lawang Adventure arranges jungle trekking tours through the rainforest of Gunung Leuser National Park, starting from the small village of Bukit Lawang. During these trekkings you have the opportunity to observe the endangered great apes (Sumatran orangutans) in their natural habitat, and discover many other species of exotic animals, flowers and plants.

Bukit Lawang Adventure is very concerned about the wellbeing of all animals who call Gunung Leuser National Park their home. Therefore we only allow visitors in good health to go into the jungle, we do not feed animals and most importantly, we keep our distance. Bukit Lawang Adventure cares about the ecological foot print we leave behind. We make sure our jungle trekking tours do not affect any flora or fauna and that nothing (litter, rubbish) is left behind. Bukit Lawang Adventure only works together with licensed, experienced guides who are approved by ITGA (Indonesian Tourist Guide Association).

Bukit Lawang Adventure offers a wide variety of jungle trekkings. From a three-hour walk for travelers who have very limited time, to a eight day jungle experience for the die hard jungle lovers. From 6 days we offer custom made jungle trekkings, so contact us for more information.

This jungle trek is ideal for people who have very limited time, for people who are not physically able to walk or climb too much and for families with children.

In about three hours you will still experience the beautiful nature of Gunung Leuser National Park and see some wildlife.

  Duration: Half a day (3 hours)   Tour prices: €45 per person (optional: tube rafting €10 extra)   Intensity level: Low

More information

You want to see wildlife (orangutans) and experience jungle, but you have limited time or you are not the sporty type? This slow paced trek takes around six hours, with many breaks. 

During this 1-day trek you will have a great chance of observing a wide variety of wildlife, which your guide will point out to you.

  Duration: One day (6 hours)   Tour prices: €60 per person (optional: tube rafting €10 extra)   Intensity level: Low-average

This adventurous overnight trek in Gunung Leuser National Park is the most popular option to discover and really experience the tropical rainforest of North Sumatra.

During this two-day trek takes you go deeper into the jungle, with great chances of seeing orangutans up-close in their natural habitat.

  Duration: Two days   Tour prices: €110 per person (optional: tube rafting €10 extra)   Intensity level: Average

More Information

Do you love hiking and nature? During this three-day trek you will get a truly unforgettable jungle adventure. You go deep into the National park and will have many opportunities to see orangutans and other wildlife up-close in their natural habitat.

You will stay overnight in two different camps in the Gunung Leuser National Park.

  Duration: Three days   Tour prices: €160 per person (optional: tube rafting €10 extra)   Intensity level: Average-High

This four days jungle trek is a really great, but intensive jungle experience. You will have the best chances of seeing orangutans up-close in their natural habitat in the Gunung-Leuser National Park.

And if you lucky in this trek you will see Sumatran elephants and Sumatran tiger.

  Duration: Four Days   Tour prices: €250 per person (tube rafting included)   Intensity level: High

This very intensive five days jungle trek in Gunung Leuser National Park is for the die hard nature fans.

During this five-day trek you will go very deep into the jungle, which gives you great chances of seeing many different species of wildlife up close, including the Sumatran elephant and Sumatran tiger.

  Duration: Five Days   Tour prices: €320 per person (tube rafting included)   Intensity level: Very high

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GUIDE TO GUNUNG LEUSER NATIONAL PARK

Guide to GUNUNG LEUSER NATIONAL PARK

One of the last strongholds for wild orangutans in the world, Gunung Leuser National Park has gotten attention recently by being featured on Netflix’s Barack Obama series: Our Great National Parks. This may have prompted you to look into the possibility of visiting the park during your stay in Indonesia, and rightly so. After spending three days and two nights in the jungles of Gunung Leuser National Park and having the opportunity to see wild orangutans in their natural habitat, I can say that the hurdles that need to be overcome to reach this destination are worth the lifelong memories that you will gain. This is a quick guide to travel to Gunung Leuser National Park, made after my visit in May 2022.

Is Gunung Leuser National Park worth visiting?

Yes, if you are lucky and understand that wildlife sightings are not guaranteed. For me, Gunung Leuser National Park was worth the time and money to reach since I was fortunate enough to see and photograph wild orangutans. For years I had planned on visiting either Borneo or Sumatra to see these magnificent animals before they are inevitably driven towards extinction. However, this is never guaranteed as I found out when speaking with two disappointed German travelers that arrived at my jungle camp and had not seen any orangutans during their two days of trekking. Spotting orangutans is never guaranteed.

How fit do I need to be to trek in Gunung Leuser National Park?

As one my guide told me during my 3 day/2 night jungle trek, the only reason why the vast forests of Gunung Leuser National Park have not shared the same fate as the decimated jungles of Borneo is the landscape that one must overcome while trekking through it. Flat terrain is hard to come by in these jungles, where trekking involves hiking up steep and at times slippery hills, only to hike down the opposite side and hike up the following one, again and again until you reach your jungle camp. These challenging natural features are what made it impossible for palm tree plantations to be built and have natural resource exploration at bay. They also create a challenging environment for jungle treks, especially when factoring in the extreme humidity that you are faced with within the rain forest. That being said, I am not a regular hiker, and the two people that joined me on my trek had never done anything of the sorts before. As long as you understand that the treks will challenge you both physically and mentally (having to push yourself even when your legs begin to shake), anyone that has a reasonable level of fitness can do a jungle trek. For those who don’t feel comfortable trekking for days in the jungle, there is always the option of doing a day hike within the park, which in many cases will still allow you to see orangutans without having the exert yourself too much. This is the option almost all Indonesians take, so keep in mind that the paths will be much busier and noisier.

What jungle trek tour is the best?

No matter what jungle trek option you take, the majority of the orangutans you will likely encounter will be at the entrance of the park. This is due in most part to the fact that the vast majority of Indonesians do not do jungle treks and in order for money to keep flowing towards this town, some local guides will entice the orangutans by giving them food. Although these are still very much wild orangutans, some are from the rehabilitation program that ceased in 2002, and are less afraid of human presence than the orangutans you may meet deeper within the park. That being said, here are the best options depending on your level of fitness and overall objectives. Note that all entrance into the park must be made with a guide, as they have experience in dealing with the animals in the park which can at times be hostile to guests. Option 1: Day walk – Easy The entrance of Gunung Leuser National Park can be accessed by almost everyone, with the biggest physical challenge being a long set of steep stairs that you must climb before reaching the park entrance. The day walk, not a trek since it is far from strenuous, will be spent going along paths that are well worn and easy to navigate with high chances of spotting orangutans in the trees. I saw the majority of the orangutans during my trek in this area. Note that this is the only option taken by the vast majority of Indonesians, meaning that depending on the day you are there it can be quite crowded and noisy, with some tourists bringing portable speakers for their walk in the wilderness. Typically, your guide will provide you a lunch during this day walk and you return to your accommodations in the afternoon. For me, I found that although this option did provide the cheapest and easiest way to potentially see orangutans, it did not offer the authentic challenge I felt was necessary for me to truly feel like I earned my orangutan spotting, with the orangutans I saw deeper within the jungle giving me more of a sense of accomplishment than the ones I saw within minutes of entering the park. Option 2: 2 Day/1 Night – Challenging This option gives you a taste of jungle adventure with a day spent trekking through the first section of the park that day tours visit, followed by the rest of the day trekking through the dense jungle to a jungle camp along a river, which you’ll be more than happy to wash and refresh yourself in after a day of sweating through all your clothes. This will serve as your home base for the night. The camp offers basic accommodations, with a tarp covered wooden structure keeping you dry and a bug net keeping the critters out. You will be sleeping on a very thin mattress and small pillow, so don’t expect to get the best sleep. Cooks which are there once you arrive will prepare various delicious local dishes for you to enjoy while sitting by the river enjoying the peacefulness of the jungle. The second day is spent trekking back to Bukit Lawang, with opportunities to spot more wild orangutans and other animals such as Thomas Leaf Monkeys. This is a great option for people who want to have a trekking experience but who are limited on time. Option 3: 3day/2 Night- Challenging and best all around adventure This option is the one I took and the reason I took it was because getting to Gunung Leuser National Park takes time and money and if you’re going to make it all the way there you may as well make a full adventure out of it. Another reason is the way you return to Bukit Lawang is different than how you would in option 2. This option takes you along the same way as the previous one, however the 2nd day is spent trekking up the river and into the jungles with the end goal of reaching a camp further away along the main river that leads to Bukit Lawang. During this day, I was fortunate enough to see a young female orangutan, along with gibbons and Thomas Leaf monkeys. The strain on your body will be felt much more on the 2nd day of trekking with your legs taking a beating going up and down the hills. The reward at the end of your journey however is a stunning camp site along a river frequented by many monkeys, where you can swim and bathe while being lulled into relaxation from the hum of the river and the sounds of the jungle. The camp here is slightly more built-up, with the mattress being a little more comfortable, along with better toilet facilities (though still very rudimentary). The 3rd day is spent relaxing by the river and visiting a nearby waterfall where you can swim and truly take in the surroundings. The journey back to town is by rafts made from tubes that you see the locals using when they float down the river for fun. This is an experience in itself, with the entire journey taking roughly 30 minutes going down a fast moving river with rapids, flowing through the towering jungles and offering more lifelong memories to cherish.

Getting to Bukit Lawang – Gunung Leuser National Park from Medan

Getting to Gunung Leuser National Park is one of the main challenges you’ll need to overcome. Getting to Gunung Leuser National Park will require you to fly to the city of Medan and from there travel to Bukit Lawang by one of the following ways.

Option 1: First and most expensive method is hiring a driver to take you to Bukit Lawang, the town that serves as the main entry point to the national park. This option will cost you roughly 700 000 IDR (price quoted to me in May 2022) and must be arranged ahead of time through either the hostel/hotel you will be staying at in Bukit Lawang, or the tour company that you will use. Though more expensive, this will afford you A/C on your drive there, a must faster drive than the alternative, the ability to bring all your luggage without any worry and can be a more affordable option if you’re traveling in a group. Furthermore, this option can allow you to be picked up from the airport directly, saving you the cost of staying in Medan, a city that doesn’t offer a tremendous amount of things to see for tourists.

Option 2: The alternative option is for the more adventurous travelers who are not afraid of traveling the local way. This means being one of roughly 20 passengers packed into an old van with no A/C. This journey will also be longer (roughly 4 hours) since you will be stopping along the way to pickup and drop off passengers and you will need to pack lightly as there is not much room for bags. I chose this option and to mitigate the amount of luggage I had with me, I left the bulk of my things at the hotel I stayed in Medan with the promise that I would spend the night I returned to the city at that same hotel. This allowed me to pack only the essentials in a backpack and have it on my knees during the drive. Since I had expensive camera equipment with me, I did not let them take my bag to store on the roof or in the trunk of the bus. Furthermore, this option means that you may encounter local scam artists that will try to make you pay a much higher price. BEWARE : YOU MUST ONLY PAY UPON ARRIVAL IN BUKIT LAWANG. Any person approaching you asking for money up front is trying to scam you, which can lead to an uncomfortable situation. Once again, this travel method is for those who are perhaps more capable or experienced travelers. However, I should mention that I traveled this way and had no issues, other than having to pay slightly more than the local rate, which still amounted to only 40 000 IDR, though this may vary depending on your driver.

Where and how to get the bus from Medan to Bukit Lawang

How to get the bus from Medan to Bukit Lawang: You will not be going to a bus terminal, as you would expect, but rather take a Grab Taxi to Mawar Bakery, here are the coordinates: Jl. Pinang Baris Medan No.261, Lalang, Kec. Medan Sunggal, Kota Medan, Sumatera Utara 20218, Indonesia https://goo.gl/maps/KbLGvBwY7ZJ2JoSj7 , make sure you select the one nearest to Pinang Baris Bus Terminal, since there are many Mawar Bakeries in Medan. On the side of the road close to this bakery is where you will find the buses that go to various locations. Look for the red or orange bus that shows Bukit Lawang on the window, tell the driver you want to go to Bukit Lawang and hop in. Best to choose a seat next to the window if possible and know that even if seats aren’t all taken upon leaving, they will all be filled up during the course of the journey. Remember, anyone asking you to pay ahead of time is trying to take your money.

Where to stay in Bukit Lawang

No matter where you stay in Bukit Lawang, you will only be able to reach your accommodation by foot, since there are only a few people that ride motorcycles along the narrow paths that serve as roads in the village. When choosing a place to stay in Bukit Lawang, keep in mind that depending on the tour you take you will only be staying there the first night you arrive in town and the night you return from your jungle trek. Obviously, if you want to stay longer in Bukit Lawang, that is a possibility since the town does have a certain charm to it, nestled along the river that serves as the natural border between man and jungle. Depending on your level of desired comfort, Bukit Lawang offers accommodation suited for all types of travelers. Things to keep in mind when booking accommodations are that some homestays/hostels do not have WiFi, some can arrange tours and expect you to arrange tours with them when booking at their location. Find accommodations here : WHERE TO STAY IN BUKIT LAWANG The only place I can truly recommend is Sahnan Guest House , the price is fair for the quality of the rooms, it has reliable WiFi and has a decent restaurant on-site. It is also located close to Gunung Leuser National Park entrance.

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Gunung Leuser National Park Trekking

Home • Tour Package • Gunung Leuser National Park Trekking

Gunung Leuser National Park Trekking is considered to be a complete experience of jungle trekking in Sumatra. You will be trekking in a well-preserved jungle of Leuser National Park. The area is the habitat of most endangered animals such as the Sumatran Tiger, Elephant, Rhino, and Orangutan. You also can meet any other wildlife such as the Thomas Leaf Monkey, black gibbon or siamang, and white-handed gibbon.

The orangutan is still the main highlight of this program during Leuser National Park tours. However, plenty of Thomas leaf monkeys and white-handed gibbons are visible everywhere in the jungle during trekking at Gunung Leuser. The variety of flora in this lush green tropical rainforest will give you valuable experience of living in the wild. You can learn about the local people’s way of life surviving in the jungle.

Mount Leuser National Park is located around 90 km northwest of Medan. UNESCO lists the national park as the main conservatory place for orangutans as well as other Sumatran species. The area covers more than 7,900 km2 of forest and has become one of the infamous spots in the world where you can see the primates in wildlife.

Gunung Leuser National Park Tours Season.

It’s also best to avoid the rainy season when you want to have a jungle adventure tour at Leuser National Park. From October to March, you can expect rain at least once daily, and the intensity is higher than in other months. In general, Mount Leuser National Park is always humid, consists of a mountainous landscape, and has more than 1,500 m of elevation.

Gunung Leuser National Park offers breathtaking wilderness and provides a home for other 7 Sumatran mammals as well as vibrant flora. The Gunung Leuser tours give you the chance to capture natural interaction between the animals or enjoy the sight of greenery accompanied by flowing river sounds and bird chirps.

Morning arrival at Kuala Namu Airport, meet service and then drive to Bukit Lawang passing via Binjai for around 4 hours drive, thru some plantations and villages, in which some part of the roads are bumpy. Arriving in Bukit Lawang check-in at Eco Lodge Bukit Lawang Cottage or similar. Lunch included and Dinner on own expenses. Accommodation : Bukit Lawang Ecolodge or similar (Non Star) Meals                  : Lunch

After breakfast then walking down the bank of the river and crossing the river by traditional canoe, walked up the jungle, and if we are lucky, we can see the Orangutan. Trekking through the Leuser National Park . Walking around Leuser National Park is the time to experience many kinds of flora and fauna as well enjoy the song of birds and Siamang "The Black Gibbon". Accommodation : Tent Meals                : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Today explore deep in the jungle and move to another camp site, possibilities to find more orangutan and another wildlife. Accommodation : Tent Meals                : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

After breakfast, today is another half day walking and explore the rain tropical forest with their wild life living in their natural habitat. Lunch is included. In mid noon return back to Bukit Lawang Lodge, tubing down the river to the lodge.  Dinner on own expenses. Accommodation : Bukit Lawang Lodge Meals                : Breakfast, Lunch

After breakfast,  time to transfer you to the airport for catching your flight to next destination. Meals                : Breakfast

END OF YOUR TRIP

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Bukit lawang orangutan trek, pacu jawi west sumatra bull race, sumatra overland tour, way kambas national park tours, wild orangutan tour at ketambe, elephant volunteer program.

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Gunung Leuser National Park in Sumatra

Gunung Leuser National Park is a vast and biodiverse national park located in the northern part of Sumatra, Indonesia. Covering an area of approximately 7,927 square kilometers, it is one of the largest national parks in the country. The park is named after its prominent mountain, Mount Leuser, which reaches a height of 3,381 meters. It is home to a wide range of plant and animal species, making it a popular destination for nature enthusiasts and conservationists.

Exploring the Remarkable Biodiversity of Gunung Leuser National Park

The biodiversity found in Gunung Leuser National Park is truly remarkable. The lush rainforests within the park support a diverse array of wildlife, including iconic species such as the Sumatran orangutan, Sumatran tiger, and Sumatran rhinoceros. Besides, the park is also an important habitat for other primates, reptiles, birds, and insects. Exploring the park allows visitors to witness the incredible beauty of its flora and fauna.

Also Read : Ketambe Research Station KetambeTrek.Com

Exploring Gunung Leuser National Park: Trekking, Wildlife Encounters, and River Rafting

There are several ways to explore Gunung Leuser National Park. One popular activity is trekking through the park’s trails, which offer breathtaking views and encounters with wildlife along the way. Experienced guides are available to lead visitors through the park, ensuring their safety and providing valuable information about the park’s ecology. Another way to explore the park is by taking a river rafting along the Alas River, which runs through the park. This allows visitors to observe wildlife from a different perspective while enjoying the tranquility of the river. Additionally, for those who want to delve deeper into the park’s conservation efforts, there are volunteer programs that provide opportunities to contribute to the preservation of the park’s delicate ecosystem.

In conclusion.

Gunung Leuser National Park is a treasure trove of biodiversity in Indonesia. With its stunning landscapes and incredible wildlife, it offers a unique and immersive experience for those who seek to explore its wonders. Whether it’s trekking through its trails, taking a river cruise, or participating in volunteer programs, there are plenty of opportunities to discover and appreciate the beauty and importance of this remarkable national park.

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Ketambe jungle trekking

Sumatra jungle orangutan trekking, safar's jungle adventures are for travellers looking to experience the wild beauty of the sumatran jungle on single and multi-day treks suitable for all fitness levels and ages. whether you want a challenging hike through tropical mountains, rivers and waterfalls, are hoping to find orangutans and other wildlife, or simply wish to relax in the natural hotsprings, ketambe is the ideal place to begin your journey into the jungle., about the trek.

See packages, what's included, what to bring and a general itinerary

What you might see

Places and animals that can be found in the Gunung Leuser National Park

How to get here

Directions and options for getting to Ketambe village to start your trip

Exploring the Gunung Leuser

The orangutan population local to Ketambe has about 20-30 individuals that live completely free and wild. They travel among the treetops, eating the native fruits and making nests to sleep in each night. If you are lucky you may catch sight of a mother and baby, or the big alpha male with his huge cheek pads. This jungle is also home to macaques, gibbons, Thomas Leaf monkeys, hornbills, snakes, giant squirrels, civet cats, binturongs, colugos, owls, mouse deer, sun bears, fruit bats, clouded leopards, gliding lizards, elephants and a myriad of bizarre insects. Although many are very rare to find, you never know what you will see here.

Reviews from our past guests

Read more on tripadvisor and google.

September 2018

We could not have found a better guide for the trek! We saw many orangutans in the trek! Safar knows what he is doing! He found orangutans in places that were impossible to see...At the very, very top of trees! His team is incredible too! Everything was delicious! We cannot explain in words how amazing the trek was. But for sure, Safar is the best guide you could have. I would not hesitate to do the trek with Safar! We are just HAPPY!

We went for 2 nights and 3 days jungle trek and it was amazing and one of the best experiences. Safar is such a great and funny guy. We always felt safe and he knows so much about all kind of plants and animals. We enjoyed the food a lot, especially the dinner sitting next to an open fire in the jungle really gives you a sense of peace. Big recommendation for Safar and his team!

January 2020

Trekking in the Jungle of Gunung Leuser National Park with Safar was one of the most memorable trips we have ever taken! Safar is knowledgeable, passionate and kind in every sense of the word. He knows this jungle like the back of his hand, and loves to share everything it has to offer. We learned so much from him and had the opportunity to see about 9 orangutan, some white-handed gibbons, Thomas leaf monkeys, macaques, tons of butterflies and lots of other amazing creatures.

This was an experience of a lifetime! Our only goal was to spend time "off the map" surrounded by ancient primary rainforest. But this exceeded any and all expectations! We did a 4D3N adventure and enjoyed every last moment. Safar, his friend, Rijal, and brother, Sabri, were incredible hosts. I found myself missing them in the days/weeks after the trip. I've done long/arduous hikes in tough conditions, but this is a different kind of hard. Felt like Rambo in the jungle. This kind of experience is hard to beat. It sets a high bar for future trips. Two words to describe the adventure: Primitive Luxury.

December 2022

My teenage daughter and I did an amazing 4-day/3-night trek with Safar in December. Safar spotted so much wildlife for us. Safar's determination to find interesting things for us to see extended to pointing out the unusual insects, millipedes, etc. we came across along the way. The trek was definitely great value. If you are interested in wildlife and exploring the Sumatran jungle, don't hesitate to book a trek with Safar. He knows the jungle and its animals well, and seems genuinely interested in making sure his guests have a great experience.

Wonderful trek with Safar and his team! Impeccable waste management and ethics, respectful observations of wildlife. The encounter with the orangutans is striking, but the jungle is also full of other fascinating animals... Few people, a passionate guide eager to pass on his knowledge, tasty food and hot springs in which to bask. Respectful tourism to be 100% encouraged to show the economic benefits of the activity and curb deforestation for the benefit of palm oil production... Our best experience in Indonesia so far

The precious Leuser ecosystem

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To organise & book dates for your trekking adventure, send an email to [email protected], meeting in ketambe.

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Safar can be reached whenever he’s not on a trek by mobile, Facebook messenger or by chatting to someone in the guesthouse who can call him.

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Overnight Trek

An overnight trek with Orangutan Trekking is a wonderful opportunity to immerse yourself in the beautiful and fascinating ecosystem of Gunung Leuser National Park. Spend the night at a campsite by the river and wake up to the sounds of the jungle!

What To Know About Your Overnight  Trek

A camera!  Optional: flashlight & powerbank

A light backpack

Sunscreen & Mosquito Repellant

Light-weight sports clothing. Long pants and high socks are recommended. A warmer layer for overnight, as well as a swimsuit for swimming in the river!

At least a litre of water

Comfortable walking shoes. Flip flops for the campsite (or similar).

Toiletries (toothbrush & toothpaste, shampoo, toilet paper, etc.)

Light weight towel

What To Expect

Experience an extraordinary overnight trek with Orangutan Trekking, starting with our team meeting you at your accommodation in Bukit Lawang at 9 am. From there, we'll whisk you away to the entrance of Gunung Leuser National Park, where your unforgettable adventure begins.

Embark on a captivating 5-6 hour walk through the breathtaking rainforest, led by our knowledgeable guides. Along the way, we'll make frequent stops to rejuvenate with beautifully presented fruit platters, offering a refreshing taste of the region's natural bounty. Indulge in the vibrant flavors while surrounded by the stunning scenery.

As you journey deeper into the wilderness, anticipation builds for your arrival at the riverside campsite. Our dedicated team will have already set up the camp, creating a comfortable and inviting space for you to relax and unwind. Take a refreshing swim in the river, allowing the cool waters to invigorate your senses and connect you with nature's serenity.

As the evening sets in, our skilled cook will prepare a mouthwatering traditional Indonesian meal for you to savor. Delight in the aromatic flavors and spices that characterize this rich culinary heritage, all while being enveloped by the symphony of jungle sounds that accompany your feast.

Drift off to sleep in your cozy tent, cocooned within the embrace of the rainforest. Let the soothing melodies of nature lull you into a deep and restful slumber, ensuring you wake up refreshed and rejuvenated.

​ The next morning, embrace the tranquility of the forest as you rise to greet a new day. After a leisurely breakfast at the campsite, embark on an optional visit to a nearby waterfall, where you can revel in the mesmerizing beauty of cascading waters amidst lush greenery. To complete your unforgettable trekking experience, embark on a thrilling traditional rafting journey along the river, as our expert guides navigate the currents and guide you back to your accommodation in Bukit Lawang. Feel the rush of adrenaline and marvel at the stunning landscapes that unfold along the way.

Book your extraordinary overnight trek today and immerse yourself in the wonders of Gunung Leuser National Park. From the moment we meet you at your accommodation to the exhilarating rafting finale, every step of your journey promises to be an unforgettable adventure. Join us and create memories that will last a lifetime.

The Spice Route End

Independent travel & culture guides to indonesia, a guide to gunung leuser national park.

July 26, 2018 Elliot Aceh & North Sumatra 10

The national park

Gunung Leuser is the second largest national park of Sumatra (after Kerinci Seblat) and definitely Indonesia’s most famous.

Started as a nature reserve of about 150’000ha in 1934, the protected area nowadays covers an area larger than 1’000’000ha. Most of it belongs to Aceh province but it overlaps with North Sumatra too.

This is the last known place on Earth where orangutans, tigers, rhinos and elephants coexist in the wild.

In 1998, an area known as the ‘Leuser Ecosystem’ 2 times larger than the national park has been recognized by the government who acknowledged that the park alone wasn’t sufficient to protect all the biodiversity of the area.

Getting in the park requires the purchase of a daily entry ticket. Price is 150’000Rp per day for foreigner and 5’000Rp for locals. On weekends and national holidays, the tarif is supposed to increase to 225’000Rp/7’500Rp but it doesn’t seem to be enforced.

Tickets can be obtained through your guesthouse, insist to get an official ticket from the park in return (it must bear a visitor number on it).

Leuser’s wildlife

The park is home to 350 birds species, 194 reptile species and 129 types of mamals. Still, orangutans are the main draw here. Males, especially flanged one are scarcer, which is logical given they occupy a much larger territory than females.

Don’t get hyped on tigers and rhinos, both are elusive species mostly seen by camera traps. The situation of the Sumatran rhino is especially dire.

A visit to Gunung Leuser National Park would be very judicially organized when the trees are full of fruits.

The most reliable period is between December and January but November and February are not bad either. Groups of several (up to 10) orangutans are often reported feasting on fruiting ficus trees at this time for instance.

Visiting from Ketambe

The patch of forest opened to tourism is located on the eastern bank of the river. The western bank of the river is closed to visitors and fully dedicated to research. Unfortunately, the conditions of the forest on the West bank is immensily better than the one on the East which is not that large as you can see on Google Maps’ satellite images.

Still, I found Ketambe to be a great place thanks to its well-developped trail system. An experienced forest trekker could explore a large part of it on its own.

Leeches are an issue in Ketambe. But I found that tucking my pants in my socks and clearing them regularly from those who still try to go through was enough.

Spotting orangutan was not as easy as I thought, I found several nests but besides a young one that I was lucky enough to spot from very close on the second day it was quite hard. I came back on the same spot on the third day to find maybe the same orangutan but it was very high in the canopea.

The area between the road and the first camp by the river is allegedly the best for orangutan spotting, even though vehicles from the road can be heard all over the place. From the moment you reach the river, the noise gets covered.

Overall I found the forest of Ketambe to be slightly less pristine that in Kedah, huge tree beeings less common.

I stayed at Friendship Guesthouse (check their great website ) . 70’000Rp per night for a double room with cold shower. The staff is very nice and not pushy. They have a restaurant but I eventually took all my meals outside in a local restaurant 500m away that serves food not arranged for Western tastebuds (also cheaper and larger serving).

If I were to come back to Ketambe, I may decide to stay a bit further in Gurah village. Accomodations right in the middle of a small patch of forest are available which should be great for bird spotting.

Visiting from Kedah

My stay in Kedah owes much to Mr Jali’s Kedah Rainforest Guesthouse. The full-board rate is 150’000Rp per person per day. No roads, no sound of motorbike, only you and the nature. Guided treks are charged 500’000Rp per day. The staff is quite nice, food is simple but good. Of course the shower is cold and there is barely any phone signal there.

The immediate surroundings of the lodge are already very rich in wildlife.

Over the 3 days spent hiking, I’ve seen a higher variety of primates than anywhere else in the park :

Groups of Thomas leaf monkeys were rather easily seen. Siamang can be heard every morning and the pictures shown above has been taken right from the lodge. I was lucky enough to spot orangutan on 2 days, which might not be the standard. Outside fruit season (which peaked in December-January) they might be hard to spot.

The trail system is quite good especially in the small patch of forest around the lodge. The other bank of the river can be explored after crossing on a log but progressing through the forest is much more difficult.

Plenty of insects to be seen. The lodge itself and the riverbanks are a good place to check for butterflies.

On the 3rd day I took a guy from the lodge with me to take me to the moss forest. This is actually the beginning of the trek to Mount Leuser summit. I found this area to be better for bird spotting. The change of vegetation is also very interesting to observe.

We also saw interesting vegetation, including pitcher plants. Finally we spotted some civet, squirrel, eagles and 2 wild chicken.

Visiting from Bukit Lawang

Bukit Lawang became a rehabilitation center in 1978 when it was decided that Ketambe would be fully dedicated to researchers. The government ordered the termination of rehabilitation operations in Bukit Lawang in 1991 given the mixed result of the original approach. Since then, the place serves only as a viewing center for tourists. The released population is dependent on daily feeding consisting of banana and milk.

Bukit Lawang is located on the edge of wild orangutans habitats but most visitors end up seeing orangutan regularly fed. They’re free, but definetely not wild.

That’s the closest park entrance gate from an airport (here Medan) and also the most popular.

I visited this place in 2013 with limited interests in wildlife and booked a classic 2D1N tour. It wasn’t bad but I don’t remember seeing any other wildlife but the couple of orangutans roaming near the entrance to get fed. Our groups were way too large and hence noisy.

Unfortunately wildlife feeding by most guides seems to be a common practice in Bukit Lawang. Given that some orangutans are very familiar to humans, I found it possible to get much closer to the apes in Bukit Lawang. Getting such conditions in Ketambe or Kedah requires more luck.

The population of “semi-wild” orangutans in Bukit Lawang shows clear signs of disturbance, including very unusual behaviour (such as mother-infant cannibalism) as well as a dramatically high rate of infant mortality. Please read this study for in-depth analysis.

Additionaly, Sumatran orangutan are very seldomly spotted near the ground in the wild which is obviously not what’s happening in Bukit Lawang.

I believe that a responsible traveller should make the extra effort to visit places where the apes are actually wild. Despite its status, the park is facing a significant number of threats. Better bring revenue to areas actually supporting wild animals which are the ones that need to be preserved in priority.

Transportation guide to Kedah and Ketambe

Kedah is reached from the town of Blangkejeren, itself reachable by bus from Takengon, Aceh and Lhokseumawe from the North, or Kutacane from the South.

Ketambe is a short ride from Kutacane but is also on the way from Kutacane to Blangkejeren.

I tried to put all the places quoted below in my general map of Sumatra.

All prices given below are from 2018.

Coming from Medan

Get from medan kualanamu airport to town.

Medan has an international airport with cheap connections to Kuala Lumpur thanks to Air Asia, as well as flight to Bangkok, Singapore and Penang. Locally it is well connected with most cities in Sumatra as well as Jakarta, Surabaya and Yogjakarta.

From the airport, touts will definetly offer taxi ride to any destination you want (including Bukit Lawang, Lake Toba or even Ketambe). Price might be interesting if you share it with a large group

From the airport a train takes you to Medan train station in about 40min for 100’000Rp. Otherwise follow the signs for buses (check the airport website for updated information about frequency and fares) :

• DAMRI takes you near the Independance square in town and then to Amplas bus terminal where you can take bus to lake Toba. Fare is 15’000 for the square and 20’000 for Amplas as of 2018.
• ALS takes you to directly to Binjai (from where you can reach Bukit Lawang) for 40’000Rp. A ride to town is charged 20’000Rp.

If you want to go straight to Ketambe with no connection, the recommended solution seems to be catching a minibus or a collective taxi in Padang Bulan.

Direct transport from Medan to Kutacane

Different companies offering transportation to destinations west of Medan are gathered on Jamin Ginting Street ( Jl. Jamin Ginting ). Departures are from morning to late afternoon, the car or the minibus leaves when it’s full. Shared taxis are likely to go pick up other passengers in town

Friendship Guesthouse gives detailed information s on their website, I’m goint to rely on it given I never did it that way. To put in a nutshell, minibuses cost 70’000Rp and shared taxi 130’000Rp for about a 7 hours ride.

The most convenient way to reach Padang Bulan from Medan train station or DAMRI bus stop near Independance Square is most likely to use online taxis (car or motorbikes) operated by Grab or Gojek. It requires an Indonesian SIM card though. Rickshaws ( becak ), regular motorbike taxis ( ojek ) or taxis are also availabe but they will probably be more expensive. City minibus ( angkot ) are very likely to be helpful too but they can be confusing to navigate, try to ask around for help about directions.

From Medan to Berastagi / Kabanjahe

If you plan to stop en route in Berastagi or at least the Karo regency, do as following :

• From the airport board ALS bus and ask to be dropped at Simpang Pos . 20’000Rp, 1h15 because of the traffic.
• From here you have regular minibus heading to Kabanjahe (Berastagi is on the way). They leave when full until night, costs 10’000Rp. It’s a 1h15 ride to Berastagi and 1h30 to Kabanjahe.

From Berastagi’s main road, almost every bemo is heading to Kabanjahe. Fare is 5’000Rp for a 20 minutes ride. Cheap accomodation are easier to find in Berastagi.

Get from Kabanjahe to Ketambe

From Kabanjahe you need to go to Kutacane first. Minibus leaves from behind Terminal Bawah Tigabaru on Jl. Mariam Ginting. If I remember well there was 2 companies available, the fare was 60’000Rp or 80’000Rp for a more comfortable minibus dubbed ‘royal’. Took us 3h30 (plus the waiting time of the minibus in Kabanjahe) and an additional 30min for the lunch break.

From Kabanjahe, you need to take a form of collective transport which looks like a pick-up with a roof and benches on the side. It’s called labi-labi . Ask the driver of your minibus from Kabanjahe to drop you at the right place in town. The 30min labi-labi ride costs 20’000Rp (official price seems to be 15’000Rp though).

Get from Kutacane / Ketambe to Blangkejeren / Kedah

There is a bus terminal in Kutacane. When we arrived mid-afternoon, my driver from Kabanjahe advised me to head to another place in town on Jl. Ahmad Yani because bus would be scarce at this time. He dropped me there. Soon we left in a shared regular car if I remember well, fare was 60’000Rp and it took us 3h. This road going right through the middle of the park is beautiful, even though low-scale deforestation can be observed:

Kedah is about 30min away from Blangkejeren, my minibus driver was ok to drop me for no extra cost there given there was another passenger heading in the same direction. Otherwise, ask Mr Jali to arrange a pick-up. He charged me 50’000Rp for an ojek ride from the lodge to Blangkejeren bus station.

On the way back, take a minibus from Blangkjeren to Kutacane. Ketambe is on the way, just asked to be dropped. Fare is 50’000Rp for that portion.

Direct transport from Medan to Blangkejeren

According to Gayo Lues regency tourism department, a few companies operate shared taxis from Medan to Blangkejeren. The companies are CV Kursima, CV Raja World Travel and CV Trans 88. Their office in Medan can be found on Google Maps.

Collective taxis usually offer pick up, including at the airport. Call them for schedule and price, they usually have a WA number. You might need to get assisted by someone speaking Indonesian.

Coming from the North : Bandah Aceh and Takengon

Blangkejeren is served by bus leaving from Banda Aceh and passing Takengon.

Please note that Wings Air now operates direct flights from Medan to Takengon. It you aim at minimizing the driving time, this would be the fastest solution leaving only the bus from Takengon to Blangkjeren that should take about 3 hours.

Susi Air operates small airplanes twice a week between Bandah Aceh and Blangkejeren (the destination is refered to as Gayo Lues) and 3 times a week between Bandah Aceh and Kutacane. According to undated information I got, price should be around 400’000-500’000Rp. The issue is that you cannot book those flights online but only through a travel agency.

Online ressources

• Guidebook to the Gunung Leuser National Park, Yayasan Orangutan Sumatera Lestari – Orangutan Information Center (YOSL-OIC), 2009, Medan, Indonesia. Downloadable here .
• Witch & al, Orangutans and the Economics of Sustainable Forests Management in Sumatra , 2011, UNEP/GRASP/ PanEco/YEL/ICRAF/Grid-Arendal. Downloadable here .
• D.Dellatore, Behavioural Health of Reintroduced Orangutans (Pongo abelii) in Bukit Lawang, Sumatra, Indonesia , 2007, Master of Science dissertation, Oxford Brookes University. Downloadable here .
• The good website of Friendship Guesthouse in Ketambe.
• home_travel

10 Comments

Hi there, Thanks very much for this very helpful post. I’m planning to spend a week to trek Gunung Leuser national park for the first time ever. What would you recommend to be the best point of entry? I’m leaning towards Ketambe because Bukit Lawang seems to be overcrowded with tourists. Also, Ketambe seems to offer other more interesting sites nearby, like Kedah. Looking forward to your response. Best wishes!

Hi Basten, glad it helps. Over the 3 entry points I presented, I prefered Kedah which is a bit away from any road. Ketambe (or nearby Gurah) is also good but you are never very far from the road (you need to walk about 30 minutes in Ketambe forest to be far enough for the sounds of cars and motorbikes not to reach you). I also saw the greatest diversity of widlife in Kedah but I’m not sure you can draw any conclusions from that given I just spent a couple of nights in each places. December and January is supposed to be the best season for orangutan spotting 😉

By the way are you working for Mongabay ? Keep up with the good work, I’m a regular reader. Elliot.

Dear Basten and Elliot Do you guys know if Mr. Jali is still active in Kedah giving tours?

I’m quite sure his business is still up and running. His phone number should be 081362291844.

This website is incredibly useful. Thank you for taking the time to construct this.

Thank you Nickolas, have a nice trip to Sumatra 🙂

Thanks to this post we switched from Bukit Lawang to Ketambe. Thanks for the insight.

Hello, So it is possible to walk without a guide on the National Park area or not? I want to go to Gunung Leuser, but want to go with guide, cause is the only way. Now I think go to the Kedah first and make some independent trek after guided 3 days trek, and do the same in Ketambe. You made independent trek in Kedah nera the campsite and then took a guide to the jungle, and in Ketambe only independent. You wrote about the east side to visitors and west side to research. What about guided long trek for 4-5 days is also east side? I dont get it, how does it look? I am gonna to Indonesia only for jungle trek and want to do it best I can. 4 treks, two 3days guided treks and some independent walks. I wanna do it in August but I think better change it for December/January/February when fruits are. Is really big difference between jungle in this places? I mean there is no such huge trees in Kedah or Ketambe like in Bukit Lawang? I dont wanna to Bukit Lawang but I wanna see this magnificient trees.

4-5 days trek on the east side are sold by guides but I guess that you mostly walk in circles in the forest. Old guidebooks refer to week long trek from Ketambe to Bukit Lawang but very few guides are willing to undertake such a trip.

Trail system in Kedah is not very extensive besides the trailhead leading to the Mount Leuser (but it goes into subalpine forest and it’s not the best if you’re looking into large trees and primates). The forest on the other bank on the river in Kedah requires a machette if you want to explore it.

Nevertheless both sites are very interesting and worth a visit.

Do you have current contact info for Kedah? Are they operating still I wonder? Would love be to go there.

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Welcome to responsible travel in North Sumatra  

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Eco-Farming

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Overnight Treks

Experience nature at its finest with us! Our camping and jungle tours offer a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in the beauty of Sumatra's natural environment. Get ready for an adventure of a lifetime!

Overnight treks

Experience the jungle in one of the richest tropical forests 

On these ethical overnight treks, you will get to explore a little deeper. Learn about the abundant plant life and wildlife. Camp by a river, swim, relax and gaze at the stars above you whilst listening to the jungl e sounds.

We not only offer the standard treks in the Gunung Leuser National Park  but have our own unique combo eco-treks  that combines jungle trekking with trekking in less explored fragmented rainforest near Landak River to observe truly wild Orangutans.

Take a look below!

Why you'll love an overnight trek

• You will trek deeper into the national park and explore more of the jungle
• Likely to see more species of animals
• Learn more about the local plant life and animals
• Camp by a river where you can swim and relax on the bank
• Get to know your guides, play cards, sing and be amused by their jungle magic
• Enjoy dinner cooked over an open fire 
• Sleep with sounds of the jungle

Is this trek suitable for you?

A reasonable level of fitness is needed as there are quite steep uphill and downhill climbs, suitable for solo, couples or friends and families, for anyone looking to spend a night in a rainforest environment.

Sumatra EcoVentures offers unique overnight treks - no other company offer these types of experiences.

We work hard to make it happen and you would be directly helping the local people and preserving the forests. Have a look below and get in touch to start planning your next great adventure!

Combo 2 Days Discover Eco-Trek Different locations & different ecosystems "Best of Both Worlds"

1 day/1 night in the jungle & 1 day  eco-trek in hidden fragmented forest near landak river, this is now our most popular trek, day 1: the day will begin entering the jungle of the gunung leuser national park, hike up  & downhill established trails, with plenty of rest points., search for orangutans and other wildlife., enjoy lunch at the top of the mountain with good viewpoints ., arrive at camp by a small river around 4pm. here you can swim, relax, eat dinner cooked from an open fire and get to know your guides., day 2:  landak river, enjoy breakfast then pack your stuff up. you will walk down landak river with views of the mountains - plenty of butterflies and birds to see ​, arriving at a rubber plantation, there a short  hike up a small ridge. it's common to see thomas-leaf monkeys chilling in the rubber trees., trek down to the hidden forest & towering limestones rocks.   this part of the trek can be strenuous, clambering over, down and beside the rocks., your local guide will try to spot wild orangutans in the tree. be quiet, take photos and watch the true behaviour of these magical animals., wild orchids, medicinal plants, animal footprints, many birds and butterflies can also be seen, eat lunch under the rocks or make your way to the river, if your still feeling energetic after lunch, you can continue your eco-tour to batu kapal to explore the cave systems and rocks, or just head back to bukit lawang., note: this trek can be reversed if you want to include rafting. so the trek would start at landak river and end in the national park with rafting back..

TREK HIGHLIGHTS

COST: Rp 1,900,000 (minimum 2 persons)

DURATION: 2 full days

  START: 8-9 am

GROUP SIZE:    1 - 3 people

FITNESS LEVEL:  Average

Permit and registration fee

Certified Guides and local guide for 2nd day

Camp and camp equipment

Lunch x 2, dinner x 1, breakfast x 1. Seasonal fruit

Rafting if  chosen

The wild orangutans living in the fragmented forests around Batu Kapal are wild, they are not as used to tourists, like the ones in Bukit Lawang. Chances of seeing them is not a 100%, but if you are lucky enough to see one then it is something very special. Respect these Orangutans by being quiet and discrete. 

These overnight Combo Discover Eco-treks are part of our Eco Sustainable Program and you can learn more about the hidden fragmented forest  here.  

We also offer 1/2 days and 1 day eco-treks to see this amazing place.

Dutch guests with their guides by a small stream in the jungle

Large flanged male Orangutan resting in its nest in Gunung Lesuer National park

Rubber plantation located on the route to Landak River

small brown lizard resting on a plant, bukit lawang

fragmented secondaary forest with towering rock formations

Wild white flowering Orchid growing in the forests at Batu kelinci

Two female guests at camp with their breakfast.

2 day Jungle Trek - overnight jungle experience

This is the popular classic jungle trek. You will explore more of the jungle than the 1-day  trek.

Day 1 .  Enter the Gunung Leuser National Park

Trek the well- established  trails, hiking up and down the mountains

Search for ex-captive Orangutans and other wildlife

Likely to see;   the Great Argus, White-handed Gibbons, Thomas-leaf monkeys, long-tailed macaque, maybe a Siamang.

Visit a large damar tree and other interesting spots in the jungle. You will also get to see different trees, lots of fungi and plants.

Have lunch at the top of the mountain, take a rest and take in the jungle surroundings.

Continue trekking through the jungle reaching a high point before the downhill climb towards the river and camp. Arriving around 3-4pm .

Enjoy drinking tea/coffee, biscuits and chilling. Swim, wash in the river before having dinner. Evening will be spent with your guides playing cards, singing, and being bemused by their jungle magic

Day 2: Have a relaxing morning by the river and enjoy a simple breakfast.

Trek towards a waterfall. Hornbills are often spotted here. Jump in or just relax

Explore the area, walk along the bank then enjoy lunch at camp

Get ready for your 'jungle taxi' back to the village

COST: IDR  2,0 00,000  (based on 2 people)

DURATION: 2 days

  START: 9 am

GROUP SIZE:    1 - 6 people

Certified Guides

Rafting back

Guide Heri resting in a dangling liana in GLNP

Crossing a small river in the GLNP, Bukit Lawang

Thomas-leaf monkey, common sitting in bukit lawang

Gunung Leuser National Park

The sumatran tropical rainforest heritage.

Gunung Leuser National Park is one of the richest tropical rainforests in Southeast Asia. Covering up to 7927 km2 and straddling the border of North Sumatra and Aceh provinces, it is one of the last places on earth with critically endangered orangutans living in the wild . This region is also the habitat of other wildlife: Elephants, rhinos, tigers, siamangs, Thomas leaf monkeys, macaques and gibbons are just a handful of the thousands of species found in this unique eco-system. Together with Bukit Barisan Selatan and Kerinci Seblat National Parks, Gunung Leuser National Park is an UNESCO World Heritage Site (listed 2004), a Tropical Rainforest Heritage of Sumatra. IN 2011 it was placed on a list of world heritage sites in danger.

The park area peaks at 3,404 m with the summit of Gunung Leuser which gave the area its name. Its wide range of eco-systems contains rivers, volcanoes and lakes. This rainforest is immensely biodiverse, hosting approximately 750 different species of animals – more than 200 mammals, 380 birds, 190 reptiles and amphibians. Because of the great differences in altitude and the diversity in soil, the Gunung Leuser National Park also has an enormous wealth of plant species. 45% of all recorded plant species in the West Indo-Malayan region are found in this area. The flora contains approximately 10.000 plant species, including the spectacular Rafflesia Arnoldi and Amorphophallus titanum, the biggest and the highest flower in the world.

It is essential to keep the impact of tourism under control.

Bukit Lawang, the usual starting point of all our tours, is considered to be one of the best gateways to the many marvels of the Gunung Leuser National Park. The surrounding forest still offers big opportunities to observe Sumatran orangutans and a variety of other habitants of the jungle. It’s responsible tours only that will support the environment and the well-being of animals in this region. And with a sensibly balanced Eco tourism you also support the livelihood of many Indonesian people living there! Because both humans and wildlife depend on the conservation of the environment.

Gallery: Leuser National Park

Climbing the Mountains of Indonesia & Malaysia

Leuser (“Tanpa Nama”)

• Elevation: 3,466 m (11,371 ft)
• Prominence: 2,940 m
• Ribu category: Sangat Tinggi
• Province: Nanggroe Aceh Darussalam
• Google Earth: kml
• Other names: none

Bagging It!

The Gunung Leuser National Park, proclaimed in 1980, lies within the provinces of North Sumatera and Aceh. The Park is split into eastern and western regions by the Kuta Cane ‘rift’ valley running southwards from Gayo country in the highlands of central Aceh to Karo Batak country in North Sumatera. The Alas River flows from the western highlands of Aceh into this ‘rift’ valley following its course to the south. Excellent white-water rafting in rainy periods! Peaks, of interest to trekkers, lie in both the eastern and western sections of the Park. Those on the eastern side are of volcanic origin, and, on the western side, are of ancient, uplifted, sedimentary formations (non-volcanic).

The Leuser Range lies in the western section of the Gunung Leuser National Park in Aceh. The National Park, in this region, is totally devoid of human habitation, and is billed as the largest wilderness area and longest wilderness trek in South-East Asia.

Peaks on the Leuser Range

There are three main peaks on the Leuser Range of interest to trekkers – Gunungs ‘Tanpa Nama’, Loser and Leuser. It is often assumed, incorrectly, that the highest peak on the Leuser Range is Gunung Leuser when in fact it is Gunung ‘Tanpa Nama’. Gunung Leuser is the lowest of the three peaks.

BAKOSURTANAL, the Indonesian Survey and Mapping Agency, provides the names and locations of Loser and Leuser on their topographical maps. Gunung Leuser National Park (GLNP) authorities have adopted these names and locations consistent with those provided by BAKOSURTANAL in their brochure:  Pendakian Gunung Leuser 3,119 MDPL (Climbing Mount Leuser 3,119 m ASL). The brochure also identifies the location of Gunung ‘Tanpa Nama’.

The altitude, coordinates and prominence of the three summits (BAKOSURTANAL data where available; otherwise GPS reading – August 2014) are:

• ‘Tanpa Nama’ (true summit): 3,466 m (11,371 ft); 3.7975 N (3°47’51″N), 97.1219 E (97°13’18”E); prominence 2,940 m (9,646 ft)
• Loser: 3,404 m (11,178 ft); 3.7566 N (3°45’24″N), 97174 E (97°10’24”E); prominence 319 m (1,047 ft)
• Leuser: 3,119 m (10,348 ft); 3.7413 N (3°45’24″N), 97.1551 E (97°9’18”E); prominence 107 m (351 ft)

Gunung ‘Tanpa Nama’ is the highest peak on the Leuser Range and the second highest peak in Sumatra after Mount Kerinci (3,805 m, 12,484 ft). The peak lies inland from the escarpment, is easy to climb and offers spectacular views in all directions of five-six ranges of mountains in the distance each with declining hues of blue, as well as of the trekking route from Puncak Angkasan via the Pepanyi and Bipak ridges to the Leuser Range. It seems that few trekkers seek to reach its true summit as evidenced by the poorly formed track.

The mountain has two knolls: a painted sign on the lower knoll (3,455 m, 11,335 ft) reads “Puncak Tanpa Nama” (summit of Mount ‘Tanpa Nama’). On the higher, more prominent knoll to the north-east, the true summit (3,466m), a plague embedded in a cement block reads, “Prof Dr Syamsuddin Mahmud, Governor Aceh, 1977 …”.

The name, Gunung ‘Tanpa Nama’, literally means mountain ‘without a name’ in Indonesian. BAKOSURTANAL does not attribute a name to this peak on its 1977 map series; only the altitude of the lower knoll is indicated. A formal name for this peak may appear if and when BAKOSURTANAL issues new topographical maps of Sumatra.

Gunungs Loser and Leuser, by comparison with Gunung ‘Tanpa Nama’, rise from the east with precipitous drop-offs on their western faces over the rugged escarpment towards the west coast of Aceh. Most trekkers set Mount Loser as their objective being the higher and more accessible of the two peaks. Both offer spectacular views. Leuser in particular offers unimpeded views of the west coast of Aceh – from Tampak Tuan in the south to Blang Pidi on the north in clear weather.

The Ecology of Sumatra (Periplus, 2000. p. 310) informs that Loser is derived from a Gayo word meaning, “place where animals go to die”. Mr. Rajajalli, guide/operator, Rain Forest Lodge, Kedah, www.gunung-leuser-trek.net, provides a not-unrelated folklore story: a Dutch officer was hunting deer on the Leuser Range in colonial times and accidentally shot his hunting partner on the Loser peak. The porters, accompanying the party, used the Gayo word, los, meaning “dead” to describe the fate of the partner; Gunung Loser thus acquired its name. But how Leuser acquired its so-closely-related name remains obscure.

The Kedah-Leuser Return Trek

The Leuser Range is one of the most remote regions of Indonesia (along with parts of Papua and Kalimantan). With an experienced guide and sound porters, it is an exhilarating but long and, in some parts, tough trek. Allow at least 10-12 days in total, including for bad weather/rest and 2-3 days on the Leuser Range if you plan on climbing all three peaks.

Treks normally start at Desa (village) Kedah, Kecamatan (sub-district) Kuta Panjang, Kabupaten (district) Blangkejeren. There are two options: Kedah-Leuser-return, by the same route (12 days – about 120 kms); and, a much more difficult one-way route, Kedah-Leuser-West Coast (14 days), emerging somewhere near Manggeng or Labuhan Hajji on the west coast of Aceh. The latter is a serious undertaking requiring very experienced guide/porters and food carried from start to finish. For the Kedah-Leuser-return trek, food drops can be made en route thereby progressively reducing loads.

Start Point: Kedah (1,220 m) is reached from Medan by car in one long day (or two days over-night at Berastagi, Kutacane or Ketambe). Kedah can also be reached from Bireuen, in northern Aceh, via Danau (lake) Takengon in the Aceh central highlands. (Suggested car hire in Medan: Pak Ramadhan, 0813 7018 3448).

Guide and Porters: We began our trek at Rain Forest Lodge, operated by Pak Rajajalli (Jalli), 0813 6229 1844.  https://sites.google.com/site/mountleusertrekking/home . Pak Jalli has much accumulated knowledge and experience having trekked in the region since 1981 and is dedicated to the conservation of the Gunung Leuser National Park. He will arrange guide/porters and permits. It may be easier to speak to his son, Rabudin, who in 2018 has WhatsApp (+62822 7222 6213) and email [email protected] .

Fees/Permits: as of August, 2014, the Gunung Leuser National Park authorities have set fees per trekker per day: Indonesian – Rp 5,000/7,500; foreigner – Rp 150,000/225,000. You need to email your plan well in advance and then visit the TNGL Park HQ in Medan to collect permission letters. Bring photocopies of ID/passports. For safety purposes, parties must be accompanied by an experienced guide and consist of a minimum of three persons.

Maps: The relevant BAKO maps are series 50-0-ed, 0519-63, scale 1:50,000, 1977. The trek from Kedah to the Leuser Range is within this map. A second map, to the south, is needed for Gunung Leuser. These maps provide an overview of the terrain but, with a guide and GPS, are not essential. Ask your guide the Gunung Leuser National Park brochure: Pendakian Gunung Leuser 3,119 MDPL (Climbing Mount Leuser 3,119 m ASL) that shows the trek and camp sites superimposed on a satellite photo of the region.

Trekking Season: northern Sumatera has two drier periods: February-March and July-August. The latter corresponds with university holidays when many groups undertake the trek. The Leuser trek is becoming increasingly popular amongst Indonesians and foreigners – some 10 groups in 2010, and 30 in 2014.

Weather: Much of the trek is between about 2,400 and 3,000 ms. Temperatures drop to around 5-10 C before sunrise but are pleasant during the day. The weather is predictable most days: cloud (kabut) rising from the east and/or west around mid-morning often blanketing the entire region by afternoon when drizzle (grimis) begins; sometimes heavy rain (deras) in late afternoon/evening; late nights/early mornings are normally cloud free. Of course, substantial weather systems can come in from the Indian Ocean or South China Sea depending upon seasons. Rely upon your guide for when and where to set camp on account of weather. They don’t want to trek in the rain anymore than you do!

The Track: Your guide will know the route, camp sites and seasonal sources of water well, and anticipate time and distance to the next camp and when/where to set camp. Don’t underestimate the degree of difficulty of the track – much is through moss/cloud forest, climbing up/down/over tree roots, negotiating “floating floors” of moss and peat, scrambling under and over fallen trees, etc. Prickly rattan plants are a continuous bother. Perseverance and stamina are required.

Size of party and porters: we would advise that groups should not exceed four tents – camp space is often limited and, for every extra trekker, one or two additional porters may be required. Guide and porters also require tent/cooking space, which increases size of party and pressure on camp space. Discuss with your guide, in advance, whether you will carry your own heavy pack (or day pack only) so that porters can be arranged accordingly. Trekkers/porters should be prepared to share the load in the event of either being incapacitated.

Trekking Days: Depending on your speed and good use of daylight, 10-12 days should be allocated for the trek: 5-6 days from Kedah to the Leuser range; 2-3 days on the Leuser range if your plan on climbing all three peaks; 3-4 days return to Kedah. Allow for delays due to rain (which are also opportunities for rest). The return trek normally takes less time because the trek is on average downhill, trekkers are fitter and loads much less.

Camp Sites: These are numerous providing some flexibility when and where to set camp in the event of bad weather. Most are limited to 4-5 tents including tents for guide/porters who have their pre-determined places near the fire for cooking and warmth. In the interests of safety, agreed names should always be used for all campsites. Names used in this report are as per brochure issued by the Gunung Leuser National Park and endorsed by Pak Jalli, Rainforest Lodge.

Distance and time between camps: the National Park brochure indicates distance between camps – a total distance from Kedah to Gunung Leuser of 50 kms (our GPS indicated approx. 60 kms). But, time between camps is a more useful guide because it takes account of terrain, etc. Times, reported below, are for medium-strong trekkers – the pace that porters would normally maintain including their frequent cigarette stops. (Note: e.g., 1:45 hrs = 1 hour and 45 minutes.)

Water: during wet periods, water is available at most camp sites often in soaks, a hole dug in the ground where surface water accumulates during rain (exceptions: Camps Simpang Air and Perpayi). Water in dry periods is more problematic – see below by campsite. As there is no human habitation in the mountains, water is generally uncontaminated. Boil or use disinfectant tablets if you have concerns.

Food: Our guide provided a basic diet of rice, mie and dried fish with onions and chilli for breakfast and dinner, and biscuits for lunch – plus tea and coffee. Foods such as muesli, dried fruits and nuts, freeze dried vegetables, cheese, Milo, etc are a welcome addition. Porters cook over open fires with a pot for rice and wok for mie, onions, chilli, etc. Your own small saucepan, mug and spoon will come in handy.

Contingency Planning: Ensure that your group has adequate medical supplies. Think through what you would do if a member sprained an ankle or worse, the need for your group to split up, or emergency evacuation by stretcher or helicopter. Consider carrying a satellite phone. Camp Padang Rumput (2,404 m) has been used as a base for helicopter SAR.

Overview of the Trek: The trek involves five stages corresponding to ridges traversed. Transferring from one ridge to another often involves steep descents/ascents. From Rain Forest Lodge, ascend via the Angkasan Ridge to Puncak Angkasan (2,916 m). Descend along the Kulit Manis (cinnamon) Ridge. Cross over onto Pepanyi Ridge following the upper reaches of the Alas River. Descend to and wade across the Alas River. Ascend and traverse the Bipak Ridge. After reaching the Krueng Kluet streams, climb up onto the Leuser Range.

Angkasan Ridge

Rain Forest Lodge (1,346 m) or Resort, Kedah (1,220m): climb through local forest, tobacco fields and enter tall, dense lower-montane forest at the entrance to the National Park. About 100 m inside the Pintu Rimba, ‘entrance to the forest’, a path to the right leads to a campsite used by Rain Forest Lodge for wildlife tours; continue ahead – long, steep ascent (about 1,600 m) to Puncak Angkasan.

Camp Simpang Air (2,270 m; 2:30 hrs; poor campsite, no potable water in wet/dry season): enter upper-montane forest; trees diminishing in height and density.

Camp Bivak I (2,580 m; 1:30 hrs; reasonable campsite; 5-6 tents; no water in dry season); enter sub-alpine forest with moss forest in damp glades.

Puncak Angkasan (2,916 m in elevation – prominence of approximately 639 m; 2:45 hrs): peak marked by a cement trig point, T3356 (survey plague removed by ‘trophy-hunting’ trekkers!); short descend to ‘Angkasan Intersection’ where you can continue to Camp Angkasan (2,906 m; 0:15 hrs; good camp site; water) or, turn right and begin the descent of Kulit Manis Ridge.

Kulit Manis Ridge

Kulit Manis ridge is characterized by knolls of burnt, regenerating scrubs and heavy undergrowth with moss forest in deep depressions.

Camp Kulit Manis I (2,833 m; 1:00 hrs; 3-4 tents; no water in dry periods).

Camp Kulit Manis II (2,750 m.; 1:10 hrs; 4-5 tents; no water in dry periods). From here, the trail drops steeply down into moss forest before rising towards the hilltop of Kulit Manis III.

Camp Kulit Manis III (2,616 m; 1:15 hrs; 4-5 tents; no water in dry periods).

Pepanyi Ridge

The track now passes over to the Pepanyi Ridge. It drops steeply and enters moss forest with many trees/tree roots lying across the path before rising onto the Pepanyi ridge. This ridge follows the course of the upper reaches of the Alas River passing over two peaks, including Gunung Pepanyi (2,440 m). Most of the trek, until emerging into the open country at Camp Padang Rumput, is through heavy moss forest – laborious, uninteresting trekking! Tigers apparently frequent Pepanyi and have be seen unexpectedly! We did not see any tigers but did see their droppings.

Camp Lintas Badak (rhinoceros trail) (2,333 m; 1:30 hrs; 4-5 tents; water). This trail, and four others that are crossed on the Pepanyi ridge (still quite visible), were used by rhinoceros when moving between the Alas River and their feeding grounds to the north – until they were shot out for their horns and became extinct in the area in the early 1990s (info: Pak Jalli).

Camp Pepanyi (2,433 m; 1:45 hrs; 4-5 tents; no potable water in wet or dry periods). This camp site is in heavy moss forest, not comfortable, and should be avoided.

A welcome respite from the moss forest is a wonderful view of a waterfall on the Alas River, about 0:45 hrs from Camp Pepanyi.

After about another 1:45 hrs, climbing up and over Gunung Pepanyi, the ecology changes abruptly from dense moss forest to open, low alpine bush on shallow soils derived from sedimentary rock. This point is known as the Pintu Rimba, ‘entrance to the forest’; water.

Camp Padang Rumput (meadow) (2,404 m; 2:00 hrs; 4-5 tents; water from ‘soaks’). Porters favour this camp; open and relaxing, about half way through the trek, and offering first views of Leuser Range. From here, the track descends to the Alas River across open country and small streams with Rhododendrons in humid depressions. Wade across the Alas that, at this point, is normally a small, fast-flowing stream. Caution: flash floods can occur – anticipate heavy rain in the upper reaches before crossing.

Camp Alas: (2,285 m; 1:00 hrs; 5-6 tents; pure mountain stream water); a very pleasant camp on the southern side of the Alas River. The track now ascends gradually through open country and several humid depressions; several depressions are of particular interest for the many varieties of orchids dominating the vegetation.

Camp Rantau Panjang: (2,446 m; 1:00 hrs; 5-6 tents; no water in dry season). A pleasant, but exposed, campsite on a sloping grassy slope with views towards Leuser Range and back towards Puncak Angkasan.

Bipak Ridge

The trail now climbs steeply up onto the Bipak Ridge to alpine scrub dominated by rhododendron, magnolia, oak and other vegetation. The ridge comprises of a series of gentle knolls at around 2,900 m – pleasant trekking. The Bipak Ridge continues through Camp Putri to Camp Krueng Kluet.

Our guide informed that Bipak means place of rest; maybe, Bipak is a transliteration of “p” for “v”, i.e., bivak, derived from the French/English, bivouac.

Camp Kolam Badak (rhinoceros wallow); (2,733 m; 1:30 hrs; 3-4 tents; permanent waterhole). The tent area is not very flat. The waterhole is a reminder of the rhinoceros that used to inhabit the region. The track then passes over the highest point on the Bipak Range, Gunung Bipak III, (3,020 m).

Camp Bipak III (2,982 m; 2:10 hrs; 4-5 tents; no water). Good camp site, with great views.  The ridge narrows and the track, in places, follow the edge of the steep escarpment overlooking the rugged country to the west coast. Take care. Spectacular views towards the west coast begin to emerge.

Camp Putri (2,940 m; 2:00 hrs; broad sloping area; 5-6 tents; water below). Great panoramic views of the Leuser Range and its peaks and of the terrain to the west coast. Fire wood is now exhausted – porters will wish to camp elsewhere.

After an initial steep ascent, the track involves numerous ascents of alpine scrub knolls and descents into moss forest depressions until reaching the Krueng Kluet streams. This part of the trek is strenuous but compensated by great views of the Leuser Range as it comes into closer view.

Camp Bipak Kaleng (2,940 m; 2:00 hrs; 4 tents); wet during rain; no water in dry periods.

Camp Bipak Batu (2,950 m; 1:30 hrs; water; 5-6 tents); good camp with great views. From here, the track descends to the two streams, Krueng (stream) Kluet-1 and 2.

Camp Krueng Kluet (on the second stream); (2,920 m; 1:30 hrs; 4 tents; pure mountain water).

Leuser Range

Camp Krueng Kluet marks the end of the extended Bipak Ridge. From here, the track climbs steeply up onto the Leuser Range; rather long and laborious!

Camp Simpang Puncak Tanpa Nama, literally, ‘intersection to the mountain without a name’ (3,211 m; 1:30 hrs; water nearby but difficult in dry periods; 4-5 tents); also known more simply as Camp Simpang Tiga (T-junction).

The track divides here: the left track leads to Gunung Tanpa Nama; the track ahead leads onwards to Gunungs Loser and Leuser.

The true summit of Gunung Tanpa Nama (3,466 m) is reached through alpine scrub and meadows; an easy climb but, as few trekkers seek to climb this peak, the track is ill-defined and a guide who knows the track would be useful to navigate the scrub but not essential as the route to the peak is obvious.

The mountain has two knolls: a painted sign on the lower knoll (3,455m) reads “Puncak Tanpa Nama” (summit of Mount ‘Tanpa Nama’). Some Acehnese hikers know this peak as Puncak Tribuana. On the higher, more prominent knoll to the north-east, seemingly the true summit (3,466m), a plague embedded in a cement block reads, “Prof Dr Syamsuddin Mahmud, Governor Aceh, 1977 …” The trek to the lower knoll takes about 1:15 hrs and another 0:45 hrs to the true summit. About 4 kilometres to the south-east is another very high mountain ridge known as Karang Putih, the highest point of which is around 3,371m and this is very rarely visited, usually on expeditions of at least two weeks.

Camp Lapangan Bola (football field); (3,130 m; 1:15 hrs; 4-5 tents; water). This is a dry, sloping ridge above marshy swamps that can be very boggy after persistent rain.

Gunung Loser is climbed from here along a well-used track. Cairns of rocks guide trekkers to the summit over ill-defined parts of the track during heavy cloud.

Camp Summit Loser (3,404; 1:30 hrs; one tent at the trig point; water below; no firewood).  A camp at the summit offers the possibility of spectacular sunset and sunrise views. Otherwise, camp somewhere below the summit (4-5 tents; closer to water; limited firewood) and return to the summit for sunset and sunrise.

Gunung Leuser (3,119 m) is reached from Gunung Loser via the escarpment between the two peaks; about 1:45 hrs. Caution: in places the track overhangs the precipitous cliffs dropping down to the west coast. The track is not well defined as, it seems, few trekkers seek to climb Leuser.

Camp Danau (lake) Leuser lies below the final ascent of Gunung Leuser; a delightful little waterhole especially if you wish to see the sunset/rise from Leuser.

The return trek from Leuser to Loser takes more time as Leuser is some 250 m lower than Loser. A trek from Camp Lapangan Bola to Gunungs Loser and Leuser and return in one day is strenuous even for stronger trekkers. Better to camp at Loser, if time and weather permit, and make the trek to Leuser from there.

Information by Nicholas Hughes and Alfred Fahringer (August 2014), with minor updates by Dan Quinn (2019)

Local Accommodation

Practicalities.

• Getting there: One long day to reach the trailhead from Medan. Unless you arrive on the first flight of the day it is better to spend one night en-route. In 2018, a car and driver from Kuala Namu Airport to Kedah is Rp2,200,000 (one way!) but a seat in shared travel car from Medan to Blangkejeren is just Rp170,000 per person.
• Permits: Rather complex, and certainly not easy for those who are quite reasonably expecting an efficient process to allow them to go hiking. As of August, 2014, the Gunung Leuser National Park authorities have set fees per trekker per day: Indonesian – Rp 5,000/7,500 (weekends and holidays); foreigner (even those who have KITAS/KITAP) – Rp 150,000/225,000 (weekends and holidays). Bring photocopies of ID/passports and best email the National Park in advance using [email protected] and/or WhatsApp message to Lila on +6281362228752. You need a formal letter to the head of the Park requesting permission for your group to hike and giving details such as equipment used and itinerary. Taking photographs on the trek using your handphone is fine, but if you wish to use a traditional camera then you are supposed to pay an additional Rp250,000, which seems rather excessive to us. You also need to pay a small sum for ‘materai’ (stamps over which you sign the contract) – these stamps costs Rp6,000 each but you may need 5 or more for your group. You also need a recent Doctor’s letter for each trekker saying that he or she is fit enough to undertake the trek. You need to arrange permits in advance with the office on Jl Selamat in Medan, North Sumatra and sign and collect the ‘SIMAKSI’ on the way to the mountain. For safety purposes, parties must be accompanied by an experienced guide and consist of a minimum of three persons. Note that women should be prepared to wear a jilbab in Kedah and Aceh in general, but thankfully it is not essential once you are trekking in the mountains.
• Water sources: Your guides and porters will advise how much to bring, but best have two water bottles per person to fill up as you go on.

Local Average Monthly Rainfall (mm):

Links and References

Wikipedia English Wikipedia Indonesia

11 thoughts on “Leuser (“Tanpa Nama”)”

I’m back in Jakarta early, after turning around just a few hours into the Leuser hike. The other 3 hikers, plus 3 porters and one guide, have continued and I hope their expedition is a success and that they have decent weather. The following is an outline of what happened, from the very beginning of planning the hike to deciding to turn around and go home early.

Obviously a trek of this length (10 days, 50 something kilometres each way = over 100km return) needs planning well in advance if you have a regular job and limited time off work, and to keep costs reasonable you need a group of 3 or 4. More than 4 and you may struggle to have enough comfortable i.e. flat space at the small camp areas. Once I had the dates fixed based on the term dates at the school I teach at, the response to my email invitation to those on the Gunung Bagging mailing list to join was pretty poor, but this has been the way of things since the beginning back in 2009. Folk tend to want to join trips to famous places over 2 or 3 days (eg the 3000m volcanoes in Java), but anything more obscure or long is much less popular. Finally, 3 experienced Indonesian hikers joined so we were ready to start on planning the trip properly.

I was really looking forward to it, but a little bit apprehensive about such a long hike in terms of days away, and had a good chat with Nick in Jakarta about his experiences having hiked the range twice.

The paperwork for Leuser is laborious now and – for foreigners – expensive. Whereas in previous years you could simply show up at Kedah near Blangkejeren and find a guide ready to set out the next day or so, more recently everything is much more formal and time-consuming, involving submitting requests and plans to the Taman Nasional Gunung Leuser office in Medan. I emailed the Park but received no reply for several days but managed to get a WhatsApp number for a staff member from a guide at the foot of the mountain itself.

I began by asking for the cost of SIMAKSI (basically permission to go hiking in the Leuser range) and they confirmed the daily prices – including the rate for non-Indonesians being 30 times (yes thirty times) the rate for Indonesian hikers. This is based on an Indonesian law which mentions only nationality (WNI – Warga Negara Indonesia versus WNA – Warga Negara Asing) and makes no room for the many foreigners who live, work and pay taxes locally here in Indonesia and thus already contribute to things like National Parks. Thus, a KITAS holder still pays 30 times the local rate per day. As we were going as a group of 1 foreigner and 3 Indonesians and I was the one doing all the arranging of permits, transport, guides, etc, we would split costs equally, but I – perhaps unwisely – mentioned to the Park staff that this was unfair discrimination given that I am a KITAS holder and that such treatment of foreigners in many countries would be illegal.

After this, the Park staff member became less responsive so I ended up being put in touch with another person at Park HQ in Medan to sort things out. The cost for a permit for a 10 day hike would be Rp1,752,000 in total, the majority of that being the cost of the 1 foreigner participating (me). This is not a nice way to get things started, but if you are a foreigner you have to simply accept this discrimination and hope the hike is worth it, or go somewhere else where you will be treated less as a foreigner and more as a human being.

You need health certificates stating you are fit to go hiking. These are simple to get hold of anywhere for a very modest fee if you have a BPJS card, and should be less than Rp50,000 even as a tourist. You need to email these along with your photo ID to the Park office in advance. You also need an outline plan for your hike itself. I was not provided with any guidelines, so simply wrote a letter in Indonesian asking for permission from the Park office to hike Gunung Leuser for ten days (March 20-29th 2019) plus the names, ID numbers, ages of the 4 participants. I sent this well in advance along with our IDs and health certificates. Despite the Park office receiving this months in advance of the hike, it was only the day before we were due to collect the permission documents that I received a message saying that it was not sufficiently detailed!

They forwarded an example from a Malaysian group who had recently hiked, which additionally detailed a reason for hiking (surely enjoyment of hiking should be enough but they expect a paragraph about interest in flora and fauna or similar), plus a detailed outline of each day and where you would be camping. Now, as any guide will tell you, it is virtually impossible to state with much confidence exactly where you will be camping each night on a ten-day hike, simply because that depends completely on the fitness and speed of the participants and the weather. But it seems it would be better to concoct something for this even though you know the reality is likely to be very different indeed. I simply replied that the guide was taking care of food and camp places would be largely determined by the weather. Perhaps realising it was unfair to wait until the last day after months of planning to request a new document, the Park staff used a standard template for the updated hiking plan document. If only they had sent me this example in the first place back in November.

You should also mention logistics, even though you will presumably have arranged this with your guide. Indeed, I sent 4 million rupiah in advance to Bang Rabudin (son of Pak Jally) to purchase all the food in advance so that we wouldn’t waste time on Day 1 waiting for them to go shopping. 4 million covers food for 8 people (4 participants plus 3 porters and 1 guide) so it works out at Rp50,000 per person per day for a 10 day hike, although they will buy a little bit more than strictly needed just incase you need to stay out on the mountain for an extra day or two. You could legitimately question having to pay for the food of porters and guides who are already getting paid for their work and would have to spend money on food even if they were sitting at home doing nothing instead rather than out on the mountains, but it seems to be standard, especially for these longer treks. You will also need to take snacks of your own unless you are happy with simple meals that will be rather monotonous after a few days out there. Light, nutritious things like muesli bars are recommended, plus special treats such as cheese or whatever.

Finally, the day arrived and we met in Medan to collect the paperwork from the HQ on Jalan Selamat and then head to the mountain. It took 1 hour to get to the office from Kualanamu airport, along congested narrow streets for the most part. Distance from Medan to Kedah near Blangkejeren is around 300km and requires around 10 hours (you really need to allow 12 to include traffic problems and meal breaks). Note that you could fly from Medan to Takengon using Wings Air – Takengon is only around 5 hours by road from the usual starting point at Kedah. However there are two issues with this…. There is a 10kg weight limit for Wings Air and it doesn’t seem likely that you could get permission to hike in Takengon. Thus, you need to stop in Medan on the way to get the paperwork to be allowed to hike.

You would think this would be straightforward after having told them of your plans several months ago. I told our driver I expected it to take about 20 minutes, after which we could get breakfast and be on our way on the long journey by road to Blangkejeren. Well, it ended up taking 2 hours and 20 minutes. I needed to provide 5 Rp6000 materai stamps for various documents. I had these ready, fortunately, or else it might have taken even longer. At times as I sat there, never once offered a coffee, I wondered if they were deliberately taking as long as possible in retaliation for me having weeks before said it was unfair to charge foreigners 30 times more and that I was not receiving sufficient responses from the initial Park staff I communicated with, or whether it was simply corruption-free Indonesian bureaucracy in action. Certainly, aside from the admittedly important factor of doing things the legal and proper way by visiting this office, there is very little incentive for hikers to have to suffer this procedure compared to just showing up in the village and seeing if it could be taken care of locally rather than in an office 300 kilometres away in a different province.

Near the end of this awfully long wait, one staff member returned from another building with 8 identical letters and envelopes. All of these letters needed folding and names of those they were meant to be delivered to written on the front of the envelope. One of these was our copy. Others were for a local mayor, the local police, plus various rather obscure addressees including for some bizarre reason a small immigration office in Takengon. Quite who would be expected to deliver the Takengon letter was not mentioned at all – it’s a ten hour return journey by car from the starting point! Anyway, it was taking him so long to prepare these that one of our team starting helping him by folding the letters! Surely one for the local police office and one for us would be sufficient.

If the National Park management genuinely has an interest in increasing the number of visitors to Gunung Leuser, it is pretty clear that they need to take a look at how they might make the procedure a lot, lot simpler and less time consuming. At present it is hard work – even vaguely traumatic. Who on this planet wants to spend their leisure time waiting for literally hours to be given permission to go trekking? Perhaps the powers that be are not interested at all, or perhaps they are simply incapable of seeing how this might not be the best start to a trip, especially when you have another 300km to travel to get to the starting point (where it would be much more convenient to be able to obtain permission). All of these things are blindingly obvious, so why do those with the authority either not see them or have no interest in improving matters? It is utterly mystifying, like something out of a Kafka novel. And to someone like myself who has spent a vast amount of time and money visiting and writing about the mountains of Indonesia for nothing but the sheer pleasure of mountaintop views it is pretty disrespectful.

It was lunchtime by now, and we hadn’t even had breakfast, most of us having flown from Jakarta at 5am and then gone straight to this office. We still had a very long car journey ahead of us – if you have the time I would recommend breaking the journey at Berastagi, Kutacane or Ketambe. The roads are windy and for the first section from Medan to Berastagi to Kabanjahe utterly clogged with trucks and in need of resurfacing and widening. It was fascinating to see so many churches over the border in Aceh as far as Kutacane – I expected zero churches and 100% jilbabs from the borderline but the reality is far from that as many Batak folk live as far up as Kutacane and there appears to be no visible problems whatsoever at present. It is a shame the tiny Alas Leuser and Blangkejeren airports are either too small or simply closed permanently for Wings Air to fly here as it would be ideal to save such a long drive in from Medan.

The mighty Alas river appears at one point on the left of the road…. And there are a few short landslide areas where tributaries have become swollen and destroyed riverside houses as the water rushes down into the Alas river, most notably at Natam.

There are a couple of checkpoints – one at the border and one further up beyond Ketambe, but these are more of an issue for travelling back south again from Aceh, as police seem to be focussed on preventing marijuana from being transported from Aceh into North Sumatra to be sold.

We called off at the Wisma Cinta Alam guesthouse and restaurant. After a lengthy storm and torrential downpour they had no electricity but they got the generator started so we could have a meal. Nice menu – clearly they see quite a few Western tourists here for the orangutans. I said as we were worrying about getting back after our hike in one day in time to check in around 4pm at Kualanamu that staying here on the way back (Rp150,000 per person) would be a good idea as we would be 3 hours (approximately) nearer than Kedah.

Kedah is not in Google Maps (except for Kedah in northern Malaysia) at the moment. Basically you need to search for the nearby town of Blangkejeren, Kedah is a few kilometres west of there around 15 minutes more by car. Blangkejeren has plenty of food shops, a petrol station, probably an ATM or two, plus a ‘travel’ (shared car service to Medan). The turning to Kedah is easily missed – a left turn with a few signs including one mentioning trekking to Loser and Leuser.

We arrived quite late – around 2230 or so – after the long day flying from Jakarta, waiting for the permit in Medan and then the long drive. There appears to be two accommodation options at the trailhead – in previous years you could stay on the edge of the forest, about one hour on foot from the village. Now it appears the simple resort/resor building in the village of Kedah is the place for hikers to spend the night prior to starting the trek (and also upon their return if required). Payment for staying in the simple building with a squat toilet and mattresses and a plug socket is up to you – Rp100,000 per person should be more than enough. Iff you need wifi just ask. You can buy simple snacks and water at the warung opposite but they had no large water bottles when we were there so I would recommend buying 2 big aquas enroute (eg. in Berastagi or Kutacane).

Bang Rabudin obviously knows what he is talking about, having hiked the mountains many times and now seemingly in charge of operations for the Leuser trek as his father Pak Jally gets a little older and leads less lengthy hikes. So I was a little disappointed after previous communication to find that Bang Rabudin would not be our guide. We gave them half payment in advance to give to their wives. He also needed a copy of our IDs for the local police, in addition to the permission letter from the Park office. He took photos on his phone. It seemed to be particularly important for me as a foreigner and it sounded like if I hadn’t had a KITAS I would have had to visit Blangkejeren police station before we could start – a real fuss is made over foreigners and it can get quite tiresome dealing with administrative task after administrative task.

At Rabudin’s house we had a simple breakfast and asked him about Leuser animals. Not many leeches he said, and not many snakes either. He showed us a framed photo he had taken of a Sumatran tiger up on the Leuser range at Camp Lapangan Bola – which is a favoured camp spot before Loser and Leuser peaks. He said tigers had been encountered in both 2017 and 2018 and that this photo was taken from just 30 metres away from the tiger, which sat down watching them as they looked down from trees that they had climbed for safety. He said he also had video but it was shaky because he was scared.

I was very surprised by this, because since my first hikes in this part of the world in 2009 the prevailing narrative about tigers in both Sumatra and the Malaysian Peninsula is that hikers will not see them and if tigers are aware of hikers they will avoid them. Certainly you only very rarely hear of hikers seeing tigers here. It is normally stories of individual plantation workers being killed by tigers on the lower edge of forest from time to time that make the papers – and that the tigers descend to the edge of the plantations as there is insufficient food for them in the forests due to deforestation and so on.

In July 2013, there was one group of six locals from Simpang Kiri, Aceh Tamiang, searching for an expensive type of incense wood to sell. They were in the huge Leuser Park area but not anywhere near this trail from Kedah and caught a tiger cub in a deer trap allegedly by mistake. Before long they had at least 4 angry tigers surrounding the trees that they had climbed. One man fell down when his branch broke and he was mauled to death. Were they really just trying to catch a deer to eat or actually poaching tigers? Its difficult to know one way or the other, given how much money can sadly be made from tiger parts.

But this was by all accounts a one-off and all hikers tended to see was tiger droppings from time to time. So quite worrying to hear of actual encounters with tigers recently, as if the number of meetings was growing. Why would this be? Are the tigers becoming more accustomed to the presence of hikers, or are they retreating to higher parts of the mountains as the lower parts continue to suffer deforestation and encroachment by humans.

The vast Gunung Leuser area is home to an estimated 100 tigers (the largest number of anywhere in Sumatra) so I googled tiger encounters and was quite shocked to read a story from an Aceh university (UKM-PA) group of 4 hikers plus 2 local guides who had encountered a tiger on their Leuser trek on this very same route in August 2018. http://lintasgayo.co/2018/09/05/dikawal-harimau-tim-ukm-pa-leuser-unsyiah-capai-3-puncak-tertinggi-pegunungan-leuser

It apparently followed them for a full day, getting as close as just 5 metres, so they were able to take photographs. It appears they were about to set off back down the mountain, so it is quite possible this is the same tiger that Bang Rabudin saw at Lapangan Bola. But this group don’t appear to have climbed a tree to avoid it, although it could certainly have caused incredible harm to them had it so wanted and they can of course also climb trees if they wish.

According to the article, “as is the custom of the Gayo people who since before the arrival of the Dutch were accustomed to walking through the forest to the coast, the Gayo people never mentioned the word harimau or “Kule” in the Gayo language when they were in the forest, the name was usually replaced with a password. That’s also what this team did. According to the team members, tigers who follow those who are not clear about their sex are called Aman Jol, which literally means father of Jol. According to Uun Fajaruna, one of the members of this team spontaneously when Aman Peramadi saw the Tiger not far behind the young man from Asir-asir. On the climb he did before, Aman Jol, a colleague from Aman Peramadi, a fellow guide from Penosan, had sat at the place where the tiger was located. Since then, the name Aman Jol, which is also the name of a prominent figure in the famous Gayo comedy, is attached to the world’s largest carnivorous species that followed them throughout the day. For reasons of conservation and protection of Aman Jol from illegal hunting, the team decided to tell the exact location and day of their meeting with the tiger off the record.”

Given our guide’s name was Jul or Jol, I wondered if it was he who had previously sat at the place where the tiger appeared for this group. Have a look at the photo on the link above, a beautiful but fierce tiger in the mist just meters away. Full marks to the team for remaining calm as running away can cause the hunting/chasing instinct to kick in. Many Indonesians may well say this creature was some kind of ‘siluman’ spirit. It is most peculiar how it got so close but caused them no harm. Personally I think the risks to hikers is underestimated and underexplained and worry that conflict situations could occur in the near future.

We were aiming to start at 8am (in order to make a full day out of Day One instead of a half-day which what others have told me often happens if the guides and porters still need to buy food in addition to packing everything). We got started at 0845 which was alright, but one of the porters was still busy with something as the rest of us began. From the ‘resor’ building, we followed the road up to the school where you take a right, head down a little, over a bridge, up again and then a left onto a wide, muddy track up into the hills.

We were doing fine until we realised our guide and porters were nowhere to be seen. We continued, then took lengthy breaks, looking back to see if we could find them. No sign. We continued to a few hundred metres before the forest entrance (1,700m) and waited in a grassy depression, listening to the many siamang calls echoing across the valley. I walked back several times, looked down to see if I could spot the guide and porters – nothing. Had we gone the wrong way? There were no signs but we were on the only track of any decent width.

After an hour of waiting myself and one of our team were growing quite annoyed and restless. We had been hiking for 2 hours, and slowly with rests. What on earth were these boys up to? We had paid them half already and they knew of the plan to hike today many months ago. But like the office experience the day before, we were being expected to wait, with no reason given.

My phone was off – to be used in emergency only during our ten days – and I really didn’t want to waste battery power so soon but decided we would have to phone Rabudin to ask what was going on. We did, and he called back ten minutes later to say they were on their way. Quite worrying though – you need real confidence in your guide and porters for a trek of this duration, and especially given the increased number of tiger encounters reported in the last couple of years you need to stick together in a group and be within shouting distance / ideally visible.

Finally after a wait of 90 minutes, the guide and porters arrived. It had taken them 3 and a half hours to reach this point that it had taken us just 2 leisurely hours to reach. They were carrying heavy loads, as was I, but 90 minutes is a long time, so I was concerned that this might be typical of what we would expect for the following ten days.

My friend Mykhailo hiked to Loser in much less than 10 days, and the Malaysian team allegedly took only 7 days to reach all three main tops. I enjoy hiking when I am actually moving and don’t like waiting around unless I am at camp. I wanted to have a quick meeting to see what had happened and try to ensure that we wouldn’t have similar again, but everyone was on the move again. I was wondering what I was doing, having endured the lengthy administration in Medan the previous day and now this long delay so close to the start of the hike. It wasn’t enjoyable, and who but a fool pays lots of money and spends his precious holiday time doing something that he isn’t enjoying?

I decided to turn back. I gave some cash to the last member of our team and put my backpack on. I would find my way back to Jakarta myself. I suppose it was a combination of things… the lengthy bureaucracy, the tiger stories, the being far from my partner, the expense, the long wait at the very beginning of an epic trek. Why not find a hobby that uses up less money and is more pleasurable… as much as I love the mountains they can be very expensive and time-consuming here, and if you are getting frequently annoyed as part of this experience then it seems a really strange way to spend one’s time.

Bang Rabudin was sorry, and very kindly arranged a seat in a ‘travel’ back to Medan for me. I told him I didn’t like the long wait, wasn’t feeling confident and thought I needed an indefinite rest from the mountains. He had received a message from the group to say they were at Simpang Air camp area and would be spending the night there. Given my efforts to send money in advance for food in order to make Day 1 more of a full-day hike than a half-day as friends of mine have experienced in the past, I can’t say I was regretting my decision to turn around when I heard they had only made it to the first camp area perhaps a maximum of 3 or 4 hours’ walk from the village. I would have been aiming for Angkasan itself on Day 1, especially after Nick’s comments in the write-up above that it is a ‘poor campsite’.

The seat in the ‘travel’ car was a very reasonable Rp170,000 for the ten-hour car ride back to Medan. I already knew this was likely to be ‘an experience’ and indeed it was. The driver was very friendly indeed, but had to make various detours in Blangkejeren to buy his favourite brand of cigarettes. We also had disco dangdut blaring out of the car stereo for almost the entire drive…. Tinny, moronic music but with an inane beat that keeps drivers awake better than red bull. At one of the many sharp bends in the road, the driver spotted a kitten, jumped out and grabbed it and put it in the back for a few hours before depositing it somewhere more favourable! We were in Medan at around 630am the next morning and I was on my way back home with disco dangdut reverberating around my skull.

I hope the rest of the team will understand and forgive me for walking out and that their trip, still ongoing, is an enjoyable success.

Hey Dan how did the trip go for them? Sounds like a shit show. The beauocricy of Indonesia is hard to deal with. It would be easy if something like Puncak Jaya exists. I met the guide from there in Bali when I was paragliding, I forget his name but at the time he had been to the summit 87 times. He said you just pay him a fortune and all you have to do is rock up.

For the effort involved may be something like that would be far better.

Hi Ryan. Well, I know they reached Puncak Tanpa Nama (the highest one). Other than that, not sure. I felt a bit guilty about leaving them but I had simply had enough by that point. It really is as if the authorities have no interest in encouraging people to visit, for if they did then they would make the bureaucracy as painless as possible instead of more difficult than the hike itself! Really weird. To be honest, I am focussing on shorter trips, because for the longer ones you really need people you can trust and get on well with for ten days or however long the expedition is. The forest environment is stunning of course, but without good conversation and rapport you can easily lose sight of that. Plus you need people who are of a similar pace otherwise you will be waiting for hours every day which is tedious. As for Papua… it is just too damn expensive for me. Add to that the danger and it appeals a lot less than pretty much everywhere else in Indonesia. Hope our paths cross before too long – let me know if you find yourself in Jakarta.

Hey Dan, yeah I feel you hey. The shorter ones are good and you don’t have to worry too much about the logistical side of it at all. I was in Jakarta in April but only for a day before I went to the Gede-Pangrango marathon. I should be back hopefully for the Slamet goat run but they haven’t added the date yet so I’m not too sure! I’ll keep you posted 🙂

Almost certainly doing a trek here March 19-30th 2019. One space left – get in touch ASAP if interested. Dan.

Hai, I’d keen to hike Leuser, but I need more info about your plan trip to this mountain. Would you share it? Especially the cost. Thank you.

thats great, i want to go there someday, i’m from indonesian by the way

Can u give more info on the forthcoming 2015 expedition? thank you!

There are 5 local guys currently stuck up a tree surrounded by 4 tigers in the Gunung Leuser area. They have been there for three days after having accidentally caught a tiger cub in a deer snare. The 4 adult tigers arrived and ate a 6th member of their party (which had originally gone looking for the incense wood that can fetch a high price). Apparently it could take another couple of days for a proper rescue team to reach them.

http://www.thejakartaglobe.com/news/sumatran-tigers-kill-one-trap-five-others-in-aceh-national-park/

The Leuser Ecosystem is one of the most important conservation areas in Asia and is realistically the last hope for the Sumatran species of Orangutan, Rhino, Elephant & Tiger.

Java Lava are planning a Leuser expedition in September, see…. http://javalavaindonesia.multiply.com/calendar/item/10028

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Things to Do in Lobnya, Russia - Lobnya Attractions

Things to do in lobnya.

• 5.0 of 5 bubbles
• 4.0 of 5 bubbles & up
• 3.0 of 5 bubbles & up
• Good for Kids
• Good for Big Groups
• Adventurous
• Budget-friendly
• Good for a Rainy Day
• Hidden Gems
• Good for Couples
• Honeymoon spot
• Good for Adrenaline Seekers
• Things to do ranked using Tripadvisor data including reviews, ratings, photos, and popularity.

1. Temple of the Divine Savior

2. Temple-Chapel of St. Matrona

3. Lobnya Park of Culture and Recreation

4. Chamber Stage, Lobnya Drama Theater

5. Hyperboloidal Water Tower

6. Lobnya Art Gallery

7. Palace of Sports Lobnya

8. Lake Kiovo Natural Monument of Federal Significance

9. Lobnya History Museum

10. Memorial Complex Zenitka

11. Kukly i Lyudi Theater

12. Monument Veteran 1943

13. Temple of Archangel Michael

14. Moscow Defensive Line 1941

15. Monument to the Children Prisoners of Fascism

16. Church of St. Philaret of Moscow

17. temple of the icon sporitelnitsa khlebov.

18. Mass Grave of Soldiers Zvonnitsa

19. povorot mall, 20. cyber arena storm.

21. Cultural Center Krasnaya Polyana

22. Chayka Culture Palace

23. Volshebnaya Solka

24. Float Studio SAMADHI

25. Patefon

• Temple of the Divine Savior
• Temple-Chapel of St. Matrona
• Palace of Sports Lobnya
• Lobnya Park of Culture and Recreation
• Lake Kiovo Natural Monument of Federal Significance

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