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Mexico City Travel Guide

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Location | Getting There | Where to Stay  |  Things to Do  |  Mexico City Tours  |  Travel Safety  | Mexico City Blogs |  FAQ

mexico city travel guide

Mexico city travel: at a glance.

Mexico City (aka CDMX or DF) is the fifth largest city on Earth, and North America’s biggest (and coolest ) city!

From hip neighborhoods  and Aztec history, to Xochimilco ‘s colorful boats, the amazing Teotihuacan UNESCO World Heritage Site, and of course, delicious tacos , there’s nowhere on Earth quite like Mexico City DF.

🤔 What is CDMX and DF?

You’ll often see Mexico City abbreviated as CDMX. This stands for Ciudad de Mexico en español, which means “Mexico City.”

You may also hear it called “DF,” which is short for  distrito federal , or federal district. 🗣 Note: DF is pronounced day-effay , not dee-eff.

Mexico City DF is about the equivalent of the “DC” in Washington DC. However, Mexico City is both a state and a district in Mexico, unlike Washington DC, which is only a U.S. district.

Mexico City Travel: Know before you go

• ✈️ Airport: Benito Juarez International Airport AKA Mexico City International (code: MEX)

⏰ Time Zone: Central Daylight Time (GMT-5)

• 💰 Currency: Mexican Peso
• 🗣 Language: Spanish, though English is common, and you may even hear some indigenous languages
• 🎫 Mexico Visa: The vast majority of travelers do not need a visa for Mexico — this includes Americans, Canadians, Japanese and most Europeans. Head here to see if you need a Mexico travel visa.
• 🔌 Electricity Socket : You’ll mostly find Type A (two-prong) and Type B (three-prong) — the same as used in the United States. For visitors from other countries, you’ll need this  universal travel adaptor .
• 📲 Mexico SIM Card : Wondering, Do I need a SIM card for Mexico? The answer is yes, every traveler will want a one for the reasons explained in this article all about the best Mexico SIM cards .
• 🚙 Car Rentals : The Mexico rental car process can be a bit daunting, and many people are apprehensive to drive in a foreign country. I get it! Check out this guide to Renting a Car in Mexico for info on the process.

What’s the best time to visit Mexico City?

With its temperate weather, Mexico City is a year-round destination. However, October to April are the ideal months for Mexico City travel because this is the dry season.

It can be cold during the winter nights (think 45°F or 7°C at night from December to February), so some prefer the rainy season of May to September because it’s much warmer.

Where is Mexico City located?

Mexico City is located in Central Mexico — in ( about ) the dead center of the country! It borders seven other states, and makes for a great home base to explore Central Mexico on all these great Mexico City day trips .

Mexico City Map

What state is Mexico City in?

Mexico City is actually its own state — one of the 32 states in Mexico . However, this was a somewhat recent change, and before it became its own state, it was a part of Estado de Mexico (Mexico State).

What’s the best way to get to Mexico City?

The Mexico City Airport is the largest airport in Mexico, and you can find direct flights to Mexico City from many places all over the world.

The easiest, safest and best way to get from Mexico City Airport to your hotel is via private shuttle service , but you can also catch a taxi or Uber, or take the Metro, bus or other public transportation.

🚕💨 Note: If you’re planning to take Uber, make sure you have a Mexico SIM Card so you can call one. Trust me on this, the free Mexico City Airport WiFi is always spotty, so you’ll need data to call your Uber.

Best neighborhoods in Mexico City

Wondering where to stay in Mexico City? The majority of visitors stick to the Roma and Condesa area, or Polanco and Reforma area. These are safe and central neighborhoods, close to many things to do in Mexico City !

The four areas highlighted below are where I recommend all travelers stay, but Coyoacan and Centro Historico (Downtown) are also good options.

Roma & Condesa

From beautiful architecture, pretty parks, walkability, cute cafes, street art, street tacos, and a chill vibe, Roma and Condesa are two of the best Mexico City neighborhoods. These sister neighborhoods are located next to one another. 

Colonia Roma (Rome Colony) consists of Roma Norte  (North Rome) and Roma Sur (South Rome); many prefer Roma Norte, though both are nice. You’ll sometimes see Condesa referred to by its official name,  La Condesa (The Countess).

Polanco & Reforma

While Roma and Condesa have a hip feel, Polanco and Reforma are all about luxury. In fact, Polanco is known as the most posh area in Mexico City, and its main street, Avenida Presidente Masaryk, is called the Rodeo Drive of Mexico City .

Reforma is the name of one of Mexico’s main streets, Avenida Reforma , but also the neighborhood’s name. In Reforma, you’re right next to Chapultepec Park , and surrounded by skyscrapers, upscale hotels, cool street art and more.

Best things to do in Mexico City

Besides all the mouth-watering  Mexico City tacos 🌮 you’re going to want to devour, there are also a good amount of Mexico City day trips just outside of the city to see the beautiful nature, UNESCO World Heritage Sites, colorful colonial cities, pueblos magicos (magic towns), and much more.

Discover some of the Mexico City highlights below ⤵

Xochimilco Boat Cruise

Teotihuacan Pyramids

Chapultepec Park & Castle

Mexico City Museums

Mexico City Day Trips

Lucha Libre Mexican Wrestling

Stroll Centro Historico

Eat ( way too many ) Tacos

Grutas de Tolantongo

Best mexico city tours.

Tours in Mexico City are a great way to see the sites and all the surrounding areas — and unless you’re planning to rent a car in Mexico City (I don’t recommend this!) , tours are the best way to get around because transportation costs can add up quickly.

Is Mexico City safe for tourists?

According to experts, you are statistically quite safe while visiting Mexico, including Mexico City. That’s not to say bad things don’t happen in Cancun Mexico City; they do.

As with all big cities, it has good and bad areas. If you stick to these  best neighborhoods in Mexico City , and avoid ones like Tepito and Doctores, you’ll likely be be safe in Mexico City.

Millions of Americans go to Mexico on vacation every year, so if we play the numbers game, the number of incidents is very small… When I’m asked if Mexico is a safe place to go travel on vacation, my response is  yes . —Carlos Barron, FBI Veteran (source:  Forbes )

As with traveling anywhere, you’ll also need to follow general travel safety measures, like not walking home alone at night and staying aware of yourself and surroundings. For an added safety measure, pack these  travel safety items , dress in a way so your Mexico City outfits blend in with the locals, and buy a Mexico SIM card .

Is Mexico City safe for solo travelers?

On a personal note, I lived in Mexico City by myself for one year, and felt quite safe. Now, this wasn’t magic; I made it a priority to stay safe by not walking home alone at night, never drinking too much, etc. Check out my Mexico City Solo Travel Guide for more info on Mexico travel safety for solo female travelers.

What’s the best travel insurance for Mexico?

This is a question I get a lot as a Mexico travel writer and Mexico expat. To determine which Mexico travel insurance is best for you , consider factors like the policy’s total cost, your deductible, the coverage you need, your medical benefits, etc.

🏆 In general, I only ever recommend three companies to purchase Mexico travel insurance from:

• World Nomads — For general travelers and adventure travelers.
• SafetyWing — For general travelers and digital nomads in Mexico.
• Travel Insurance Master — Mexico travel insurance search tool, for those who want to compare policies.
• 👉 Click on any of the links above to get a FREE quote on your policy!

Mexico City Blogs: Learn more about Mexico City travel 🇲🇽

Mexico City Day of the Dead Parade 2024: Ultimate Guide

Mexico City Day of the Dead 2024: Best Things to Do & More

Mexico City to Teotihuacan: 5 Best Ways to Get There in 2024

Mexico city travel: frequently asked questions, can you drink the water in mexico city.

No — Unfiltered Mexico tap water is not safe for human consumption. However, you will need to keep drinking water and to stay extra hydrated, as Mexico is quite close to the Equator. In fact, dehydration is one of the most common ways people get sick in Mexico. So what can you do?

• If you’re renting a Mexico City Airbnb or VRBO with a kitchen, you can boil the water before drinking it.
• You can keep buying bottled water — Though this gets expensive, and is horrible for the planet!
• Use the Water-To-Go Filterable Bottle . This refillable bottle not only keeps you hydrated, but also filters your water so you don’t get sick in Mexico, and is good for the planet ♻️ Get 15% OFF with code SOLO15!

The Water-To-Go Bottle has a built-in, three-stage filtration system that removes 99.9999% of all water-borne contaminants. These include bacteria, microplastics, viruses, heavy metals, chemicals and more. I personally own one, as you can drink Mexico water from any source (even the tap), and be completely safe.

Will I get altitude sickness in Mexico City?

Maybe — Altitude sickness is very random, and can happen to anyone who’s at a high elevation. In case you didn’t know, Mexico City is about 1.5 miles above sea level, a half-mile higher than Denver, Colorado, “The Mile High City.”

For this reason,  everyone  who’s traveling to Mexico City should come prepared. Check out this guide — Mexico City Altitude Sickness: How to Prevent & Treat It .

🧳 Mexico Packing list

Wondering what else you need on your packing list for Mexico? Check out this guide — Ultimate Packing List for Mexico + FREE Checklist Download !

What’s the Mexico City weather like?

Weather-wise, Mexico City has what is known as the Eternal Spring climate, meaning it’s never super hot or super cold — so you really can visit year-round. However, during the Mexico City rainy season from about April to September, it can rain quite a bit.

The best time for Mexico City travel is during the dry season, from about October to April . The summers are nice as well, just with a much higher chance of rain.

• The prettiest time of year in CDMX is from (approx.) February to early-April, when the bright purple jacaranda trees are in bloom!
• This also coincides with the Mexico butterfly migration at the Piedra Herrada Monarch Butterfly Sanctuary , located in the nearby town of Valle de Bravo . From about November to March, millions (maybe even billions ) of monarchs travel to Mexico from Canada.
• The city hosts the annual Parade of Alebrijes , the Día de Muertos (Day of the Dead) parade, and other festivities during the last week in October.

Is Mexico City worth visiting?

Yes — Mexico City CDMX is a unique Mexico destination that so many types of travelers will want to check out.

If you love big cities, you must visit Mexico City — the 5th largest city on Earth! For travelers who love culture, there are three UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Mexico City, and abut 150 Mexico City museums .

Foodies will also fall in love with Mexico City, famed for both its street food tacos and Michelin Star Mexico City restaurants alike.

How many days do I need in Mexico City?

Mexico City is one of the biggest cities in the world — and the largest city in both Mexico, and all of North America. Realistically, you could spend a whole year there, and never run out of incredible things to do in Mexico City ! For a first time trip, four full days seems to be a sweet spot.

As with all big cities, you’ll want to have a great itinerary in place to make the most of your trip. This 4 Day Mexico City Itinerary takes you neighborhood by neighborhood, so you don’t miss any of the best things to see in Mexico City.

🗣 Mexico Language

Mexico Fun Fact : There’s actually no official language of Mexico!

Spanish is the most widely-spoken, so some mistakenly say Spanish is the official language of Mexico. However, the government actually recognizes 68 national languages, including the Nahuatl Aztec language, and the Maya language.

💰 Mexico Currency

Mexican Peso — Exchange rates vary, but have hovered around $18-21 pesos to $1 USD for about the last decade. You will find some places that take U.S. dollars, but usually at an unfavorable rate, so stick to using pesos in Mexico .

☀️ Mexico Weather

Mexico is a big country — the 7th largest on Earth, in fact! It’s hard to generalize the weather in Mexico, because it will vary greatly by where you’re traveling.

In general, temperatures are mostly mild everywhere all year long, though summers on the coast are hot and humid, and winters in Central and Northern Mexico are on the colder side. Throughout the whole country, the rainy season runs from (about) April through September.

✈️ Mexico Busy Season & Slow Season

• Mexico Busy Season: The busy season in Mexico runs October to March, as this is the dry season and you’ll get the best weather. December is the busiest month for tourism in Mexico.

• Mexico Slow Season : If you don’t mind some rain, you’ll often find the best travel deal during the Mexico slow season of April to September. Do keep in mind that June 1-November 1 is Hurricane Season, and Mexico beaches are all susceptible.

• Mexico Shoulder Season : The shoulder season is that magical time when prices are still low and the weather is good. The Mexico shoulder season is from about mid-October to November and January to early-April.

🧳 Download your FREE Mexico Packing Checklist here!

Check out this Ultimate Packing List for Mexico — so you know what to pack and what NOT to pack for Mexico! This article offers advice on packing for Mexico cities, and packing for a Mexico beach vacation.

Beyond what Mexico outfits and clothing you’ll want to bring, here are a few extra things to consider:

• Filterable Water Bottle: Mexico is close to the Equator, so you’ll need to stay extra hydrated. In fact, dehydration is one of the most common ways people get sick in Mexico.

A filterable, refillable water bottle not only keeps you hydrated, but also filters your water so you don’t get sick in Mexico.

The Water-To-Go Bottle has a built-in, three-stage filtration system that removes 99.9999% of all water-borne contaminants. These include bacteria, microplastics, viruses, heavy metals and chemicals.

• Mexico SIM Card: Want to be able to use your phone in Mexico?! Of course you do! Pick up a TELCEL Mexico SIM card before your trip, and swap it out on the plane while you’re waiting to exit, so you have phone and data service the second you arrive in Mexico.

•  Anti-Hangover Meds: Planning to party hardy?! Make sure you’re not wasting any of your precious travel time with a hangover. Liquid I.V. has about 70,000 reviews on Amazon, and is considered the best defense against a hangover.

•  Sun Hat: No matter if you’re headed to the beach or a city, you’ll want to wear a hat to shield yourself from the strong Mexican sun. This cute sun hat is the perfect stylish and practical accessory for your Mexico vacation.

•   Sunscreen: As you’ll want to reapply a few times throughout the day, a light, Mineral-Based Sunscreen is ideal.

Headed to the beach? Do your part to practice responsible tourism in Mexico by only using an eco-friendly reef safe sunscreen while swimming. You can even ditch the sunscreen altogether and opt for a long sleeve swimsuit (AKA rash guard) instead.

•   Bug Repellent: Mosquitoes are common throughout Mexico — especially on the beaches! REPEL Insect Repellent is an eco-friendly brand that’s DEET-free and plant based, with a pleasant lemon and eucalyptus scent. Don’t want to use a spray? Pick up some Mosquito Repellent Bracelets .

The vast majority of travelers do not need a visa for Mexico — this includes Americans, Canadians, and most Europeans. Head here to see if you need a Mexico travel visa.

🤔 What is the mexico FMM ?

When you go through Customs & Immigration to enter the country, you’ll receive your Forma Migratoria Multiple , or FMM Tourist Card (sometimes listed as FMT). If you’re coming by plane or cruise ship, there is no charge; for those driving across the border, the FMM costs about $30USD.

In most circumstances, all visitors get a 180-day (six month) visa — so you can legally stay up to six months!

🚨 Have your FMM on you at all times

Keep in mind that though it’s called an FMM card , it’s actually just a small piece of paper. Keep your FMM on you at all times in your wallet, as this proves your legal status in Mexico. It’s rare, but if an officer stops you, they can ask to see your FMM.

🎫 Don’t lose your FMM!

You need to have your FMM on you at all times, as proof of your legal status in the country.

Be sure to keep track of your FMM, as you’ll have to give it back to an Immigration officer at the airport, cruise port, or land crossing when you’re leaving the country.

If you lose your FMM, there is a $600 peso ($30 USD) cost to replace it, and some paperwork you’ll need to fill out before you can leave the country.

If you’re flying home, plan to arrive at the airport about one hour earlier than you normally would to do the paperwork and pay the fine.

As this question doesn’t have a yes/no answer ( I wish it did! ), I do my best to answer it in depth in this article, Is Mexico Safe for Travelers Right Now ? However, for the most part, Mexico is actually statistically quite safe for all travelers — including solo travelers.

Check my Solo Female Mexico Travel page for more info.

💃 Mexico solo travel guides

Mexico is a big country, and it has plenty of amazing solo female travel destinations — like the ones featured in this article, Mexico Solo Travel: 20 Safe Destinations for Female Travelers .

In it, you’ll get recommendations of places to visit in Mexico, from solo travelers who have actually been to them.

🎧 solo travel podcasts

• Ep. 34 |  Planning your first Mexico solo trip • Ep. 40 | Tips for safe solo travel in Mexico • Ep. 53 | 30 Solo female travel tips, Pt. 1

To answer the question, Is it safe to drive in Mexico? — YES , it’s considered safe to rent a car and drive in Mexico.

As the country is quite large, road trips are a great way to see a lot in a little time, and especially popular in the Yucatan Peninsula and Baja California Peninsula.

The one caveat to Mexico driving safety is that you’ll be in a foreign country, unfamiliar with their laws and customs. Head here for a complete guide to Renting A Car in Mexico: Everything You Need to Know , where you’ll also get 10 useful Mexico driving tips!

🚙💨 Looking for the best Mexico car rental company? Discover Cars works with both local Mexican companies and international companies to get you the best rates. Not only do I recommend them — I also use them!

As a general rule, you’ll want to know at least a few words of Spanish when visiting anywhere in Mexico. This is both a sign of respect, and will also help you have a better, smoother trip.

If you stick to the more touristic places in Mexico, you should be fine with basic Spanish. For those planning to venture off the beaten path, be advised most people in pueblos  (small towns) speak little to no English.

🗣 Here are some options:

• Brush up on your Spanish: Use a language-learning program like Rocket Spanish , so you’re confident, and conversational, before your trip.
• Download the Google Translate App: For this to work at all times, you’ll need a Mexico SIM card with data — as the app won’t work when you’re off-WiFi.
• Travel with a Mexico phrasebook: This Lonely Planet Spanish Phrasebook is an Amazon best seller, and a great non-digital language assistant!
• Save this infographic an image on your phone. This way, you have access to these common words, phrases and questions, even when you’re off-WiFi.

• Work With Us

The Ultimate Mexico City Travel Guide (51 Best Things to Do and See)

Written by Becca

Updated on April 28th, 2024

Dreaming of how to explore Mexico City during your trip or long weekend? The best way to see Mexico City is through the famous sights and off the beaten path alternative experiences.

This article may contain affiliate links. We earn a small commissions when you purchase via those links — and it's free for you. It's only us (Becca & Dan) working on this website, so we value your support! Read our privacy policy and learn more about us .

Posted in Mexico

Things to Do in Mexico City

• Sinagoga Justo Sierra
• Mercado San Juan
• Mercado De Artesanías La Ciudadela
• Barrio Chino
• Cantina El Tio Pepe
• Alameda Central
• Palacio Bellas Artes
• SEARS (Finca Don Porfirio Cafe, to be specific)
• Zócalo (Plaza de la Constitución)

Metropolitan Cathedral (Catedral Metropolitana)

• Museo del Estanquillo
• Casa de los Azulejos
• Museo de Arte Popular
• Terraza Catedral
• Templo Mayor
• Calle Regina
• Frida Kahlo Museum (Casa Azul)
• Mercado de Coyoacán
• Cafe Avellaneda
• Mercado de Comida, Coyoacán
• Parroquia San Juan Bautista
• Parque Centenario & Jardín Centenario
• Cineteca Nacional
• Create Your Own Coffee shop Tour
• Mercado Roma
• Parque México
• Parque España
• Avenida Alvaro Obregón
• Avenida Ámsterdam
• Nevería Roxy
• Cafe Péndulo
• Bosque de Chapultepec
• Museo de Arte Moderno
• Museo Nacional de Antropologia
• Castillo de Chapultepec
• Jardín Botánico del Bosque de Chapultepec
• Museo Soumaya
• Avenida Horacio
• Antara Fashion Hall & Cinepolis VIP

Biblioteca Vasconcelos

• Mercado de Lagunilla
• Our favorite Mexico City Food Tour
• Lucha Libre
• Xochimilco Canal Boating
• Teotihuacán Ancient Pyramids
• Selina Hostel & Selina CoWork
• The Red Tree House
• Four Seasons Mexico City
• Hotel Condesa DF
• The Mexico City Metro

Introduction to what to do in Mexico City

Mexico City is undoubtedly overwhelming. You can choose to explore Mexico City with a food tour , by its bar scene and through its food and amazing tacos .

Luckily for travelers, the sights can be broken down into several main areas that can be explored on foot. Exploring Mexico City should include cultural and historic sites, present-day trendy (and safe) neighborhoods , museums and of course, FOOD!

Scattered throughout the neighborhoods are some very nice parks and plazas as well. We’ve noted which ones should not be missed and which have sights of their own inside of their boundaries.

For a long weekend or three-day trip, we recommend spending a full day walking in Condesa and Roma, followed by an afternoon in Coyoacán.

A second full day should be spent in Mexico City’s historic downtown area, getting your fill of the hustle and bustle, the history, cultural places of interest and seeing markets.

If you have a third full day, we recommend taking a day trip to Teotihuacán and/or doing a hot air balloon experience to see the pyramids from above.

So, how do I get up in a hot air balloon at Teotihuacan?

If you're not afraid of heights, grab a spot in a hot air balloon tour for an unforgettable sunrise.

If you have additional days or a week, you can take short trips to the surrounding pueblos like Tepoztlán, Puebla or Cholula. If you don’t want to leave the city, that’s no problem!

We’ve listed heaps of attractions in the main neighborhoods , and you can always opt for a food tour, walking tour or relaxing day to enjoy the cafe scene . Don’t forget to throw in a rooftop bar from our list when the weather is nice!

Get your walking shoes on and brush up on your Spanish , as Mexico City is a great city for any type of traveler!

Looking for new proven ways to save money on flights and airfare to Mexico? The easy solution is to sign up for Going , the leading way to find flight deals and mistake fares, directly to your inbox. Use HALFHALF20 to get 20% off!

Things to do in Mexico City’s Historic Center & Downtown

Sinagoga justo sierra.

Possibly one of the more surprise sights that we saw in our final days in Mexico City, the Sinagoga Justo Sierra is a beautifully-restored historic synagogue that was originally built in 1941. This was the original center of community for Mexico City’s Ashkenaz (Eastern European) Jewish immigrant population, and it was here that they celebrated Bar Mitzvot, weddings and other joyous occasions.

The synagogue was restored to its current splendor between 2008 and 2009. What’s interesting is that from the outside of the street, you’d never know there was a white building reminiscent of Israel behind the large wooden doors from the street. This was a great place to visit for an afternoon. Visiting hours close daily at 5 pm. Admission is free and donations are accepted.

Mercado San Juan

There are lots of “Mercados San Juan” in Mexico City, but the biggest one of all is in the heart of downtown Centro near Chinatown. Go here for everything produce-related and also for its gastronomic section, where you can order a ceviche from seafood vendors and have some sit-down service, or try some wines and cheeses in the Italian-themed vendors.

Mercado De Artesanías La Ciudadela

This market is where you go to pick up your huaraches, Day of the Dead-themed trinkets, beaded jewelry, woven clothing items, dolls, candles and anything that qualifies as a craft. Bargaining is welcome.

Barrio Chino

Mexico City’s Barrio Chino (Chinatown) has been minimized down to really only two or three city blocks. Don’t worry, though - you can get fortune ‘galletas’ (cookies), Chinese food at some of the eateries like Hong King and get ‘pan chino’ (bao) on the street for a few Pesos.

Cantina El Tio Pepe

Cantina El Tío Pepe is one of the bars we feature in our CDMX bar guide , but it’s more than a bar. It ironically nearly became like our neighborhood bar, even though we didn’t live in the ‘neighborhood’ (the neighborhood being Centro) until having been in CDMX for an entire month.

This historic cantina is no-frills and the waitstaff are friendly. They’ll tell you a bit of history about the place if you ask (in Spanish). Drinks are no-nonsense, and the menu comes in a dual-column spreadsheet type of format. Where else can you throw back a shot or a beer at a place that’s been in business since the 1870s?

Alameda Central

Alameda Central is a big city park with lots of criss-crossing walkways. There are street vendors everywhere, so if you want potato chips or a ‘sangria’ (sweet soda in a plastic cup with chili around the rim, garnished with a Mexican lemon slice), this is your place.

Go on weekends for some serious people-watching. It’s also rather safe in the early evenings past dark, but use caution.

Palacio Bellas Artes

We’ve seen the outside of Palacio Bellas Artes for sure (see below, “SEARS”), but we have a confession: we have not been inside Palacio Bellas Artes . We’ve heard great things, nonetheless. This is Mexico City’s gem of an art institution, and hosts cultural events like dance and opera. It is best known for its murals by Diego Rivera inside. Worth a visit!

SEARS (Finca Don Porfirio Cafe, to be specific)

If you want to get straight to the ninth-story view of Palacio Bellas Artes (it has a beautiful multi-colored roof) and you’re also craving a coffee, you’re in luck because you can enter SEARS and go to the cafe on the top floor. We featured this cafe in our cafes guide because we liked the view so much. Note: you can only enter if you get seated by a hostess, and then you do have to order something, even if it’s only a can of seltzer.

Zócalo (Plaza de la Constitución)

The Zócalo is one of the largest public squares on Earth. It’s surrounded on all sides by government buildings, the National Palace and the giant cathedral. You can reach the Zócalo by metro, to Zócalo station! Surrounding this area are lots of pedestrian-only streets lined with shopping and food vendors.

This cathedral is massive, and sits on the Zocalo square. Get this: the full name of it is “Catedral Metropolitana de la Asunción de la Santísima Virgen María a los cielos.” It’s pretty big, and pretty old, too. You can admire the architecture of the outside and the inside as well. Apparently you can climb to the roof, but we haven’t done this. If you get to do it, let us know!

Museo del Estanquillo

Museo del Estanquillo was a late addition to our CMDX repertoire, but guess what - the entrance is free and they have a rooftop with a bookshop and small cafe. Take the elevator up as high as you can and then turn right to walk up a flight of steps.

The result is a cool rooftop with the tops of old stone buildings in view. The museum itself deals a lot with the film history of Mexico, so that’s cool as well!

Casa de los Azulejos

This beautiful and historic building looks more like it would be in Lisbon than in Mexico City! Decorated in blue and white tiles, it’s one of our favorite places to take photos in CDMX . You can find it at Av Francisco I. Madero 4, in Centro.

Museo de Arte Popular

This art museum has a collection of exceedingly interesting Mexican heritage in the form of art from different regions. You can see Day of the Dead figurines and sculptures, unique alebrijes (Mexican folk sculptures) in a variety of sizes and media, cultural masks from different regions and eras and the excellent gift shop, which is an attraction of its own.

The building itself is an art deco relic from the earlier half of the twentieth century and was originally a firehouse. Inside, there is tons of natural light and an open center where you can look up at all the floors. We highly recommend that art enthusiasts not miss this one.

Terraza Catedral

Terraza Catedral is more a portion of our Mexico City Bar Guide than not, but we’re including it on sights to see. That’s because the view from this rooftop bar (which we brand as “non-pretentious,” by the way, as it’s on top of a hostel) is quite a sight to see, especially at sunset!

Templo Mayor

The Templo Mayor historical site is another place we didn’t actually go to, but we’ve walked by it, having been frequent visitors to the Zocalo area. The Templo Mayor archaeological site is a place you can visit to see what lies below Mexico City in terms of ancient ruins and structures. Sounds fascinating!

Calle Regina

Also a late addition to our go-to list, Calle Regina starts near Bolivar and ends a few blocks later to the east. It’s a pedestrian street, where first you’ll hit the Regina church and its cafe, and then you’ll see Cafe Regina on your left.

Sit down here for an americano - they’re GOOD! Continue on Calle Regina as long as you like, and you’ll see street art (some of it political, but some of it sappy and colorful) and sit-down restaurants and bars with sidewalk seating.

Sights to see in Coyoacán

Coyoacan is a cool neighborhood to Mexico City’s southwest. While you may choose to get there by Uber or by metro, consider that it’s not exactly a stone’s throw from Centro or Condesa. You’ll need a dab bit of time to get there.

Frida Kahlo Museum (Casa Azul)

The Frida Kahlo Museum , also known as Casa Azul (Blue House), is where Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera lived and worked. In this museum, you can learn all about Frida’s life, as the main focus is on her. You can see her early works, learn about her family history, see her clothes and her medical apparatuses.

The house itself is nice to visit because the exhibits revolve around a leafy courtyard. This museum can be a bit controversial for Mexicans, who note that the hefty entrance fee (more than $12 USD) makes it so that most Mexicans cannot afford to visit. The museum is privately-run, and you’ll notice some corporate sponsors like Bank of America, Samsung and Vogue on some signage. We strongly suggest getting tickets in advance (you have to pick a time and date to visit).

Mercado de Coyoacán

The Mercado de Coyoacán is pretty big, but not big enough to get lost in. The main food here is the tostada, a dry toasted corn tortilla that you eat flat with toppings on top.

You can choose from any of the types of toppings that you see in big pots - chicken, mushrooms, beef, seafood and more. They don’t break the bank, either, but watch out - they are filling!

Cafe Avellaneda

Cafe Avellaneda was one of Mexico City’s first third-wave cafes, and it’s always busy. There aren’t all too many seats inside, but if you wait, you can get a seat at the coffee bar and watch the masters do their craft.

The menu is fun, too - you can get coffee cocktails (non-alcoholic) like the one Becca tried, which had espresso, tonic water, juniper and tamarind!

Mercado de Comida, Coyoacán

The choices at this food market (think: food in terms of lunch, not grocery shopping) are overwhelming, but thankfully, the place isn’t too big overall. We had quesadillas (did you know that in Mexico City, a quesadilla does not necessarily need to have cheese? Mind blown!) and tamales.

You can also order fresh juices. Prices are set, so you won’t get ripped off if you don’t speak Spanish! You can also have pozole at the stands in the center of the market. Cash only!

Parroquia San Juan Bautista

You can’t really figure out how big this Catholic church is until you walk inside (it’s free to enter). Located in the heart of the Coyoacán neighborhood, the church and its ex-convent are worth a peek.

Parque Centenario & Jardín Centenario

This park and garden in Coyoacán’s commercial center are great for people-watching and passing through. You’ll see that the fountain has coyotes in the center, and that’s because Coyoacán means “place of the coyotes.”

Cineteca Nacional

A local friend took us to Cineteca Nacional , not to see a movie, but instead to marvel at this architecturally-worthy cinema. What we also liked about the complex was that in addition to a movie theater, it has a bookstore, a cafe and a lawn where people hang out in the sun.

What to see and do in Condesa & Roma

Condesa and Roma are great neighborhoods in the heart of Mexico City where most travelers tend to stay.

Create Your Own Coffee shop Tour

You’re in Condesa and Roma, so you obviously have to see all the cafe culture in these two neighborhoods of Mexico City! Start with our coffee shop guide to CDMX and star these cafes in your maps so that when you pass by, you can say that Becca and Dan from Half Half Travel sent you!

Mercado Roma

Mercado Roma is something to see as well as something to do (the doing is the eating), and at Mercado Roma, which is also featured in our Mexico City Nightlife Guide , you can try cuisine from many parts of Mexico, and pizza as well. Mercado Roma is a place to be during the day, and also at night on weekends when the kiosks are open late.

Parque México

Parque México is the larger of the two main Condesa parks, and it’s several blocks long. We love it for its variety - there’s a children’s playground, some quiet paths, a lot of great greenery and lots of people with cute dogs. You can see more photos in our Condesa neighborhood photo gallery .

Parque España

Parque España is the smaller of the two Condesa parks, and here, you’ll find nice trees and paths, some man-made ponds and lots of kids and dog-walkers. We usually cross through Parque España when walking toward other parts of the neighborhood.

Avenida Alvaro Obregón

Avenida Alvaro Obregón is a commercial strip that we didn’t truly discover until it was nearly time to leave our stint in Roma Norte. What a shame! It took a distant cousin of Becca’s who was visiting to get us out on Alvaro Obregón. This is where you’ll find bars, restaurants and cafes all lined up next to each other, and the side streets are nice as well. One of our favorite spots in this area is Quentin Cafe .

Avenida Ámsterdam

It’s easy to obsess over Avenida Ámsterdam. Home to classic art deco architecture, old buildings next to new ones, some historic mansions, and a leafy middle path (great for running and dog-walking!), Avenida Ámsterdam runs in a circle around Parque Mexico and believe it or not, used to be a horse-racing track back in the day.

Nevería Roxy

More of a place to experience Mexican old-school culture and less of a sight, Nevería Roxy is an absolute classic for ice cream treats. This feels like a time warp! They have a great selection of sorbets that come in the flavors of Mexican fruits. The place is cash-only.

Cafe Péndulo

We listed Cafe Péndulo in our list of Mexico City cafes , but it’s a thing to do in its own right. Cafe Péndulo is a beautiful bookstore (and has more locations than this Condesa one). You can browse literature in Spanish, and some in English, and look at their cool section of funny knick-knacks to buy as gifts (much like the “stuff” section in Urban Outfitters).

Bosque de Chapultepec

Bosque de Chapultepec is a giant park in the center of Mexico City. It separates Roma and Condesa from Polanco, which is located on its north side.

Bosque de Chapultepec is a city park that is massive, and has it all - the city’s museums, botanical gardens, amusement parks, lakes with boats for rent, quiet groves where couples set out picnics, statues with poetry, running paths and even a “quiet section” where people go for some peace and there’s no talking allowed. You can find history, wildlife and some fresh air (it seems), and you can spend hours in the whole place, especially in some of our favorite parts, the pedestrian avenues lined with vendors selling stuffed animals, face-painting, snacks, fried food and other Mexican goodies.

Museo de Arte Moderno

We went to the Museo de Arte Moderno (Museum of Modern Art) on a Sunday, when it was free. The museum has four major wings, all themed a bit differently. This is where you can see the original (we asked) of Frida Kahlo’s ‘Las Dos Fridas,’ one of her most famous works.

It’s also where we saw the most about Diego Rivera we had seen so far in all of Mexico City (note: you can go many other places to learn about Diego Rivera, but we didn’t get to them).

Museo Nacional de Antropologia

This is a museum we never actually got to go to, but we’ve heard it is pretty interesting. It’s not free, but the entrance fee isn’t too hefty, either. Located inside Bosque de Chapultepec, this is somewhere good to stop if you have a rainy day, or if you’re passing by. You can learn all about the history of the Mexican people through anthropology.

Castillo de Chapultepec

Would you believe that we never made it to Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepec Castle)?

Mexicans call this their version of a castle, with the disclaimer that, “It’s not like castles in Germany, but it’s our version of a castle.” If you go, let us know! It’s located in Bosque de Chapultepec with a lot of signage leading to it.

Jardín Botánico del Bosque de Chapultepec

This is probably our favorite aspect of the entire Bosque (“forest,” in Spanish). The Jardín Botánico is free to enter, and serene once you’re in there. We entered from the more populated parts of the park, and our first stop was the succulents garden.

We also liked the vegetable garden, the cactus garden, the banana tree grove and the “Garden of the Future,” which was created by local artists entirely of recycled plastic items.

What to do in Polanco, Mexico City

Despite the reputation of Polanco being residential and upscale, there are things to do and see if you’re visiting.

Museo Soumaya

Museo Soumaya was our major destination the day we went (in truth, we walked three miles from Roma Norte) to the upscale Polanco neighborhood.

Museo Soumaya is unique because on the outside, its exterior is composed of thousands of hexagonal aluminum pieces, and it’s quite a sight to see. Inside, it’s likely not what you’d expect (we were surprised), as you’ll find ancient Chinese and Japanese ivory sculpture, turn-of-the-century French art and an entire floor of sculptures from centuries past in an open floor plan with natural light.

On the first floor are some noteworthy Diego Rivera murals and mosaics. There’s also a Botero sculpture housed in the Museo Soumaya - can you find it?

Avenida Horacio

Avenida Horacio is one of the main thoroughfares of Polanco, and what’s so nice about it is that it’s like a boulevard with a leafy walkway in the middle. You can walk through Polanco nearly uninterrupted by traffic and admire all the plant life and sporadic vendors throughout your walk.

For a full feeling of what it’s like, see our photos of the Polanco neighborhood .

Antara Fashion Hall & Cinepolis VIP

Want to transport yourself into the modern and new-wave shopping malls of Mexico City? Antara Fashion Hall is an upscale mall, where you’ll find Western brands, a large grocery store, several bars and restaurants that cater to the Western style and probably our favorite aspect of this mall, Cinepolis VIP, where we saw Spiderman on Christmas Day.

If you’re in Mexico City and you want to see a movie, this was a very comfortable experience!

Sights North of Zócalo and Centro Histórico

There’s more to see outside Centro! Getting out of the tourist zone is a little more adventurous, and worth it.

This biblioteca , or library, is one of the most beautiful in Mexico City. Entrance is free, and it’s usually open til 7:30 pm on most days. Go for its photographic qualities - its six floors of boxy metal cubic design will have you looking up and up. Take the steps (or elevator) to the top floor, and then get the dizzying view down!

This library is one of our top ideas for the best places to take photos in Mexico City , among some other great spots in the region.

Mercado de Lagunilla

We’re not sure where we heard about Mercado de Lagunilla , but we are sure glad we went.

We walked toward Lagunilla, a very local neighborhood where we saw no other foreigners nor tourists, and made it all the way to the Mercado de Tela, where we entered right before closing hours to see rows of quinceañera dresses, custom suit shops, decorations for parties and wedding dresses. Outside the fabric market, in the market itself, we found street food, toys, dolls, shoes, clothes and you name it.

Given that this is not a typical tourist attraction of any sort, we recommend taking a responsible level of safety precaution in order to keep your bag and pockets safe. Check out our Mexico City safety guide to see exactly what we mean.

Entertainment and tours in Mexico City

Our favorite mexico city food tour.

If you’re a foodie, we suggest taking a Mexico City food tour with Eat Like a Local. After our month and a half in Mexico City, we still learned some new things by going to the markets with our awesome local guide, Rocio. We visited markets we had never stepped foot in, and ate foods we had never tasted. Above all, our guide made us feel safe and informed. We also had so much fun!

Lucha Libre

Lucha Libre is a dramatic and exciting version of wrestling-meets-entertainment and it is a true Mexican tradition. Lucha Libre (meaning ‘free fight’ in Spanish) takes place in an arena with the fighters in a ring, in a series of rounds, starting with female fighters, then some one-on-one fighting and finally lots of teams-taking-on-each-other fighting.

The performance is theatrical and the aim is to rev up the audience, but the fighting is also very physical and in fact, very dangerous. You have to give these guys credit for doing what they do! Lucha Libre takes place most nights of the week and tickets are not expensive and are in the range of 200 pesos each ($10 USD). You can buy tickets on Ticketmaster.

Attractions outside Mexico City and beyond

Xochimilco canal boating.

If you want to have a day with a group floating on a multi-colored boat down the canals of Xochimilco , take an Uber out to this region of Mexico City and hop on a boat for a morning or afternoon.

You will float through the canals and you can buy your own food and drink to bring, or buy things from vendors who pass in boats. You can buy micheladas, pulque, tamales and more, and you can pay mariachi bands to play a song for your group! Many people consider this one of the best day trips from Mexico City , even though it’s technically in the Federal District.

How's everyone getting to Xochimilco?

Xochimilco is like a day trip within CDMX, so going with a group is great! Plus, see Frida Kahlo's house in Coyoacan.

Teotihuacán Ancient Pyramids

These ancient Mexican pyramids were built by civilizations way before the Aztecs had control of the region, and you can visit them for a day trip. Beware that LOTS of tourists come here, and weekdays will be less crowded than Saturday and Sundays. Want to see them from above? We went with Sky Balloons Mexico for a very early morning hot air ballooning experience and it was awesome.

What's the best way to see Teotihuacan?

As Teotihuacan is a bit far, going with a guide in the early morning is a great choice!

Our Mexico City Yoga Recommendations

OV Yoga is a boutique yoga studio located on Avenida Amsterdam in Condesa. Classes run several times a day and with several different teachers.

You can drop in, or reserve in advance. Note: prices differ for payments on cash and credit, and classes with the studio’s founder cost slightly more than with other teachers.

Greenyoga operates in several different locations in Mexico City and the teachers are great.

Becca tried the Roma-Juarez location! Note: the studio itself is up two flights of dizzying spiral staircase steps, so if you have a fear of open staircases, choose a different studio. Downstairs near reception, there is a tiny cafe with healthy and gluten-free snacks. You can rent mats.

Walk-ins are fine, but be sure to check the schedule because the classes are specified by level, so it’s best to choose which suits your skill level.

Where to Stay in Mexico City

Selina hostel & selina cowork.

Selina Mexico City Downtown is a new hostel-hotel in a vintage and iconic Mexico City hotel, formerly Hotel Virreyes. This massive property was converted into the backpacker and digital nomad accommodation in early 2018. There’s WiFi throughout the property, two different communal kitchens (one is specifically for apartment guests), and rooms come in a variety of dorm bed options, privates and studio apartments.

In addition, Selina Mexico City has a coworking space. You can book a hot desk for a day, week or month, and there’s even a private outdoor patio for CoWork members to use!

The Red Tree House

The Red Tree House is a beautiful boutique hotel full of character in Condesa, right off Avenida Amsterdam. Rooms are all built off of a central courtyard that makes you feel like you left the city. You’ll be surrounded by greenery, tables with umbrellas and angular staircases painted yellow, red and orange.

The lobby and common areas for guests are like being home in a mansion, with a fireplace (great for winter chilly nights), dining area for the morning breakfast hours and lots of books to read.

Casa Decu is a boutique hotel located several steps away from The Red Tree House, but with a very different vibe. Casa Decu is an art deco building transformed into an Instagrammable art-deco-meets-modern haven for the trendy traveler.

If you’re into roof decks, you’ll love hanging out on the sunny rooftop, which has places to sit and have a coffee.

Four Seasons Mexico City

The Four Seasons Mexico City is top-notch, with an interesting location right near Bosque Chapultepec and Avenida Paseo de la Reforma, a major road. It is sandwiched between Cuauhtémoc and Roma, making everything pretty accessible.

The Four Seasons is unique because it has a leafy courtyard where the restaurant is located, and at night it feels a bit like an urban jungle. If you look up, you can see lit-up neon skyscrapers nearby. Even if you don’t stay at the Four Seasons, we recommend having a drink at Fifty Mils , the hotel bar.

Hotel Condesa DF

We love the location of Hotel Condesa DF , and based on their fabulous rooftop bar, we can only expect that the rest of the hotel is just as wonderful.

Hotel Condesa DF is located across from Parque España in the neighborhood of Condesa, with loads of cafes, restaurants and bars nearby. Hotel Condesa is chic yet defined, and classy yet not pretentious. It seems like a good bet for a trendy traveler who wants good access to lots in the neighborhood.

How to get around Mexico City

There are so many ways to get around a massive metropolis like CDMX. Let’s look at a few of the easiest ways to get around with transport.

We heard from some Mexicans that Uber changed Mexico City. With the start of Uber in CDMX, locals started going out at night more, because getting a cab home would be safe and affordable.

We took Uber during our first month in Mexico City (that is, when we didn’t feel like walking!) and Uber Pool as well (gotta stay green!). All the drivers were really nice and most were very friendly, too.

The Mexico City Metro

If a metro system can’t scare you, then try out the Mexico City metro .

There are lots of fun facts about it. For example, did you know that each station has a pictograph symbol? You’ll see a guitar and scarf to symbolize mariachi bands for the Garibaldi stop, a cricket for Chapultepec (the Spanish word “chapulín” came from the Nahuatl word chapultepec, meaning cricket) and two doctors for the neighborhood stop in Doctores.

Each ride costs 5 Pesos, which is approximately $0.25. For each ticket, you can go an unlimited amount of stops as long as you stay within the system by transferring and not leaving the paid area. To get a ticket, you can enter at any entrance of any stop and head to the Taquilla (ticket booth), where you slide your bill or change through a window and receive your change and a paper ticket. Paper tickets get fed right-side up into the turnstiles, and then you’ll be in!

Read signs carefully to ensure that you’re going in the correct direction for your destinations, and watch your pockets!

While we did not experience any crime in the Mexico City metro, it’s true that at rush hour, it’s more difficult to see who has access to your pockets and your bag when you’re crammed in a crowded train car.

The metro runs until midnight most days of the week, but we don’t suggest taking it much after 10 pm for safety reasons. During daytime, there’s no problem.

The Mexican Peso: What to know and expect

The currency in Mexico is the Mexican Peso. In any given year, the exchange rate might be between 17 and 22 Pesos to a US Dollar. For something that costs 20 Pesos, it’ll be about $1.15 USD.

You’ll find that most street tacos cost between 10 and 15 Pesos, while tacos in restaurants (depending how nice the place is and which type of meat you are ordering) will be priced at 20-70 Pesos.

A bottle of water usually costs 10 Pesos. A beer at a dive bar will be around 35 to 55 Pesos, and at a fancier bar, upwards of 80-90 Pesos.

Can you bargain in Mexico City? You can bargain sometimes on items that do not have a set price. We’ve tried bargaining for some things, and haven’t won. Other times, buying a second of something and asking for 10 Pesos off as a discount works (mostly with artisan vendors who have their goods laid down on a tarp on the street).

Denominations of bills come starting at 500 Pesos, and this is what you’ll get when you withdraw from an ATM. From there, there are 200-Peso bills, 100-Peso bills, 50-Peso bills and 20-Peso bills.

For amounts less than 20 (approximately 1 USD), there are 10-Peso coins, 5-Peso coins, 2-Peso coins, 1-Peso coins and 50-cent-Peso coins. We didn’t see any that were smaller than a 50-cent coin, and we mostly only received them as change in markets.

Safety in Mexico City

In the 45 days we spent in Mexico City, we did not experience any crime. Given, we carry backpacks and purses with zippers, we don’t travel with too many flashy electronics unless we’re taking photos with our cameras and we don’t hang out in dangerous areas!

Still, we’ve developed some helpful habits from spending more than four months in Latin America, for both our second times. We detail all of that in our guide that answers the question, “ Is Mexico City Safe for Travel ?”

Here are a few basic tips

• Never leave your phone on the table when sitting at an outside cafe.
• Never let your bag out of your sight at a restaurant.
• Avoid drinking tap water in Mexico City (order bottled water when dining out).
• Don’t forget about altitude sickness, and take altitude medication from home if you’ve experienced altitude sickness when traveling in the past.

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The 27 Best Things to Do in Mexico City

By Scarlett Lindeman

Mexico City is changing rapidly from the influx of foreigners who have recently discovered the city’s infinite charms. There are dozens of new restaurants, parties, and projects that keep the vibrancy of this capital city (with a population of over 22 million) surging while the storied museums, ancient bars, and cultural sites maintain their standing. An intoxicating mix of ancient and new, you could spend a lifetime here and barely scratch the surface. While there's no way you’ll manage to cover all of the must see and dos in one trip, sticking to one neighborhood a day keeps things manageable. No matter how you end up spending your time in Mexico's capital, one thing is for sure—you’ll be scheduling your second trip before your first is even finished.

Read our complete Mexico City travel guide here .

This gallery has been updated with new information since its original publish date.

All listings featured on Condé Nast Traveler are independently selected by our editors. If you book something through our links, we may earn an affiliate commission.

Colonia Juárez Arrow

The Juarez neighborhood has evolved in recent years. Once gritty, the area is now teeming with great boutiques, bars, parks, and restaurants like Masala y Maiz, which blends Mexican and Indian cuisines, and Niddo, a sunny corner spot that serves a divine brunch. There are loads of hotspots around the leafy central Plaza Washington: La Rifa for artisanal chocolates, Loose Blues for vinyls and vintage denim, and Elly's for natural wines and handmade pastas.

Luis Barragán House and Studio Arrow

The former home and studio of Pritzker-Prize-winning architect Luis Barragán has been transformed into a museum in Mexico City's Hidalgo District. Architecture and design lovers frequent the estate to study the artist's ingenious use of color, light, shadow, form, and texture. From the street, you'd never guess the personality that lies inside: The stark-gray façade humbly blends in with neighboring homes, but walk to the interior of the estate and you'll find striking walls in a kaleidoscope of bright colors, fountains, and pools.

Gran Hotel Ciudad de México Arrow

Even if you're not staying at this hotel on the Zócalo, it's worth stopping just to see the jaw-dropping interior. The building originally opened as a department store in 1899. Since then, its art nouveau bones have been carefully maintained: The curving staircase is a replica of the one at Paris's Le Bon Marché , and the antique elevator, made of iron and concrete, was the first of its kind in Mexico City. But the pièce de résistance is the incredible Tiffany stained-glass ceiling, imported from France in 1908.

El Moro Churerría Arrow

Early evening is churro time in Mexico City—families, couples, and friends all go out for a taste of sweet fried dough and chocolate. You'll often find lines snaking around the block outside this beloved churrería (churro shop). There are shops in Roma, Centro Historico, Condesa, Polanco, and Cuauhtémoc.   Most have spiffy interiors with blue and white tile, bright lighting, and long communal tables. Watch the cooks dip, fry, and sugar-coat your long, spindly churro, which is paired with hot chocolate in a flavor of your choosing.

Tom Vanderbilt

Alex Erdekian

Jessica Puckett

Shana Clarke

Floating Gardens of Xochimilco Arrow

Drive 40 minutes south of the city and you'll witness the closest approximation to the Valley of Mexico (in which Mexico City lies) before the arrival of the Spanish. The World Heritage Site of Xochimilco, the extensive lake and canal system that once connected most of the settlements in the valley, is an incredible vestige of the area's pre-Hispanic past. Start at the Embarcadero Belem dock to board a colorful gondola -like boat, called a trajinera , and explore the waterways and artificial islands or chinampas .

Palacio Nacional Arrow

Diego Rivera's famous mural The History of Mexico, showcases the Aztec era to the conquest to the Revolution to the development of industry. It's grandiose and captivating, a unique opportunity to learn about Mexico's past. Not to mention it's free: The mural is housed in a distinguished building east of the Zócalo that operates as a government office. Among the office workers milling about, you'll see a mix of local, national, and international tourists who come to be awe-stricken by Rivera’s masterpiece.

Templo Mayor Arrow

Templo Mayor (translation: main temple) was the centerpiece of Tenochtitlán, the ancient Aztec capital, constructed in 1325 in the marshes of Lake Texcoco. The temple was mowed over and replaced by a cathedral during the Spanish conquest in 1521. Today, the hulking stone ruins lie at the heart of Centro Histórico, embedded in the blueprint of downtown. Surrounded by streets and buildings, it is hard to imagine the temples in their original Aztecan glory, but the nicely organized museum helps paint the full picture.

Museo Frida Kahlo Arrow

The museum, also known as "Casa Azul" for its shocking cobalt blue exterior, is where Frida Kahlo was born, raised, lived, and died. Visitors can take in a few paintings by Kahlo and her husband, Diego Rivera, in addition to other contemporary artists of their era. But perhaps more interesting is the voyeuristic window into their creative world. The home is carefully preserved and maintained; it's easy to image the spaces as they were during Kahlo's time. In addition to their personal effects and domestic materials, the collection of clothes and corsets Frida needed to support her body after her traumatic accident give an intimate look at the artist's daily struggles.

Sculpture Garden at the Museo Universitario Arte Contemporáneo Arrow

Located on the outskirts of Mexico City proper, at the National Autonomous University of Mexico campus, the Sculpture Park is totally off the tourist track. Featuring a range of grand outdoor sculptures, the park is best explored by foot. The sculpture space, which looks like a giant crater, is one the top things to spot. It's built around lava (which can be seen in the center) and has wonderful views from the ledge.

Mercado Jamaica Arrow

The city’s principal flower market offers visitors a fragrant, colorful walk through much of the region’s native flora and fauna, available to be bundled into a bouquet and taken back to your home. Available for your admiration are roses, lilies, daisies, ferns, and violets galore, among other rare and special species. Visit during Dia de Muertos to see trucks carting in pink and orange cempasuchil , or Mexican marigolds, for family members to buy to decorate their ofrendas at home or their loved ones’ graves. Build a bundle to decorate your hotel room with—or better yet, to dry and frame as a memory for when you return home.

Monumento a la Revolución Arrow

This landmark, located in the heart of Mexico City, commemorates the Mexican Revolution and is the largest triumphal arch in the world. The main structure evolved over twenty-five years of stops and starts and a major redesign. It was finished in 1938, to comprise an eclectic blend of art-deco and Mexican socialist realism styles. A visit to the top observation deck only costs 110 pesos ($5) and there's a museum underground. You don't need much time to witness the glory of the monument. Saunter around, gawk at the creative architectural stylings of the structure, and walk under the arches. History nerds may be more interested in the small museum below, but more than anything it's an architecturally significant piece, and the observation deck has great views. If you keep your eyes peeled while exploring around town, you'll most likely catch a glimpse of the monument down a main street—but a quick glimpse isn't enough, and it's worth the quick 15-minute trip to walk underneath it.

Omusubi House Arrow

In a small storefront in Roma Norte, the husband and wife team, Ichiro Kitazawa and Varia Gonzáles Manuel work side-by-side in the miniscule kitchen, cupping steamed rice into palm-sized balls. They will sink sauteed sweet potato into the omusubi which are speckled like confetti with purple and wild rice, a marriage of Mexican ingredients and Japanese technique. They met while working at a Japanese restaurant years back when Mexico City was still called DF, the federal district. He had arrived ten years earlier by way of Osaka, as a hippy backpacker intent on photographing Latin America but fell into cooking; and she, from Puebla. “Omusubi translates to tying up or to bring together” Kitazawa explains, “which is how we wrap the rice”—and a sound metaphor for the forging of connections between their two countries.

Cárcamo de Dolores Arrow

Second or third-time visitors to Mexico City who think they've seen everything will find something new here. This historic but infrequently-visited site was constructed in 1951 as a hydraulic water system connected to the city's main water lines. And while it no longer acts as a municipal water work but rather a museum and cultural landmark, it underscores the city's complicated relationship with water. In the lesser-traveled section of Chapultepec, it is currently under renovation and closed to the public, though the massive Rivera sculpture of the Azteca water god Tlaloc out front can still be admired.

Eat Like a Local Arrow

Eat Like a Local, a Mexico City–based company, runs culinary tours that immerse visitors in the city's vast food scene. Rocio, the guide, has long been a food blogger , and her knowledge about the Mexico City's food scene is totally on point. She's also passionate about connecting tourists with locals, and impacting Mexico City in a positive, sustainable way. There's a set itinerary, but she's flexible—so go on, order another mezcal or pork carnitas, if you like.

Museo Jumex Arrow

Museo Jumex houses one of Latin America's largest private contemporary art collections, which includes works by Andy Warhol, Martin Kippenberger, Cy Twombly, and Damien Hirst. Mediums range from paintings and drawings to light and video installations. The building is as distinctive as the art: British architect David Chipperfield designed the 15,000 square-foot white-concrete cube with a sawtooth top. (Plus the Soumaya Museum is just across the square, so you can feed two birds with one scone.) 

Self-Guided Centro Historico Cantina Crawl Arrow

It's easy to pop around in Centro, hitting up a few cantinas to have a drink or two and to soak up the style of these classic, dive-y spots. The more friends you bring and make, the better. Locals and regulars alike hit the cantinas, which maintain a storied baseline for the drinking culture of Mexico City. Musicians pass through, sorrows are drowned, and gains celebrated. Many cantinas serve food, some better than others, and will often gift snacks and small plates if you consume around three drinks, though each spot has its own rules. Beer and tequila prevail. Simple cocktails, built-in-the-glass rum and cokes, margaritas, sangria, rum, brandy, and mezcal. Some cantinas are known for certain drinks, but craft cocktails this is not.

Lucha Libre at the Arena Coliseo Arrow

A giant venue that hosts sporting and entertainment events, the Arena seats as many as 23,300 spectators. It's best known for hosting Lucha Libre wrestling matches. The stadium is sprawling, and some seats are certainly better than others, depending on how much money you're willing to fork out. If you're here because you're a true Lucha Libre fan, make sure to sit in the front row; if you're here to have a fun night out with friends, the cheap seats will do just fine.

Teotihuacán Arrow

The ancient Mesoamerican pyramids of Teotihuacán, in the Valley of Mexico, once served as the largest city in the pre-Columbian Americas. It is thought that during the first millennium A.D. the city had around 125,000 people, including multi-ethnic groups such as the Otomi, Zapotec, Mixtec, Maya, and Nahua. If you have a few days in Mexico City, it's worth the day trip . (Teotihuacán is about an hour outside the city by car.) Leave early in the morning so you can be back in the city by mid-day—and bring sunscreen!

The Centro Zocalo Historico Bodealores   Arrow

The boleadores are dotted around the perimeter of downtown's main square (and almost every other park and plaza in the city) but you'll have a great view of the cathedrals, flagpole, and Palacio Nacional if you get your shoes shined here. Climb up on the elevated perch of the boleador's chair and they will make your boots shine anew. At 50 to 100 pesos ($3 to $6), it's one of the cheapest shoe-shine experiences around. Boleadores are an important part of Mexican street culture and a fixture of pedestrian avenues, a living-breathing mid-century heritage that is not in danger of dying out. But with the proliferation of cheap plastic shoes and mass-market tennis sneakers, "limpiabotes" are a hand-crafted service for giving leather shoes a new life.

Museo Anahuacalli Arrow

Awesome, grand, and out-of-the-way, Anahuacalli is part studio, part museum, and part shrine for Mexican art that Diego Rivera built as an architectural piece uniting past, present, and future to the natural environment. Rivera's personal and expansive collection of pre-Hispanic figurines, carvings, and totems accumulated over a lifetime. The museum itself was constructed around a swath of rocky terrain Rivera and Khalo had purchased for a farm. The main collection features nearly two thousand figurines representing Olmecs, Toltecs, Nahuas, Zapotecs, the people of Teotihuacan, and those of northeastern Mexico as well as Rivera's sketches for murals. There are also temporary exhibits of more modern Mexican artists, with a recent rotation of 30 textural works by Robert Janitz—paintings, large-format sculptures, and an NFT.

Patrick Miller Arrow

From the outside, this dance club looks like dumpy warehouse hidden behind a black gate in Roma Norte. But come on a Friday (the only day it's open), and you'll find a raging party that offers a glimpse of the city's extant disco subculture. An eclectic mix of party-goers show off their moves in dance circles to all kinds of music, from '80s and '90s classics to sub-genres of disco, such as Hi-NRG, Italo, and electro.

Museo Nacional de Antropología Arrow

This massive building in Chapultepec Park is among the city's most famed museums, second only to perhaps the Museo Frida Kahlo . Though the late Mexican architect Pedro Ramírez Vázquez designed it in 1964, the mammoth building still looks as avant-garde today as it did then. (How exactly does that giant concrete slab float above a pond?) The museum holds the world's largest collection of ancient Mexican artifacts. Some of the most iconic Mesoamerican artifacts discovered to date can be found across 23 rooms. If you want to understand Mexico's history, then a visit here is a must.

Plaza Garibaldi Arrow

Mexico's roving mariachi bands have been found in this plaza, a few blocks north of the Palacio de Bellas Artes , since the mid-1900s. Though the plaza has deteriorated over the years, it's seen a resurgence thanks to a city-driven effort to clean up the neighborhood by installing new sidewalks and street lamps. It's a cultural meeting point of sorts, where travelers can come day or night (though the best time to go is after 11 p.m.), to watch bands solicit bar patrons, cars, and passersby to buy a song .

Torre Latinoamericana Arrow

This 44-story skyscraper, built in 1965, is the tallest building in Centro Histórico . The tower miraculously withstood both the 8.1-magnitude earthquake of 1985 and the 7.1-magnitude quake of September 2017, making it a rare feat of engineering. The Torre defines Mexico City's skyline (much like the Empire State building in New York) and is a useful tool for orienting oneself in downtown. Head to the top-floor observation deck for jaw-dropping 360-degree views of the city, or to the newly renovated bar/restaurant (one floor below), which has equally impressive views and is almost always empty.

Salón San Luis Arrow

The dance floor at this old-school salon, cloaked in red light, comes alive as locals, tourists, and old timers twirl and shuffle to a live band . Try your hand at salsa, merengue, cumbia, and norteña numbers as waiters in crisp whites with black bow ties circle the room serving liquid courage. There's no shame in bad dancing, so try and learn the steps. (The pros might even show you a thing or two.)

Iglesia San Ignacio de Loyola Arrow

A surprisingly tranquil stop in a high-energy city, this infrequently-visited modernist church is tucked away in plain sight in residential Polanco. Designed by famed architect Juan Sordo, it was completed in 1961 and features a sharp triangular structure covered in handmade yellow ceramic tiles. Show up during visiting hours and you can tour the grounds inside and out. Indoors, the Jesuit temple is encased by multi-colored stained glass windows that catch vibrant fractals on sunny days, with an effect almost like being trapped in a kaleidoscope. It's a place of worship and quiet contemplation, yes, but also a haven for architecture nerds.

La Rifa Chocolateria Arrow

Indigenous to Mexico, cacao has been consumed in the country and played an important role in Mesoamerican societies since 19th BCE; La Rifa continues the tradition with a small roaster on-site. There are a handful of tables sprinkled in the tree-shaded plaza out front, optimal perches for spending an hour or two. Ask to see their production in the back and they will most likely give a tour. The main event is sipping chocolates—water-based and closest to how cacao was consumed, pre-Columbian, before the introduction of the Spanish (and thus cows and milk). The front-of-house folks are happy to explain the finer nuances of their roasting process, flavor-profiles, and history of Mexican chocolate.

Ahuehuete Arrow

This six-seat collection room is a distillate library, a stunning space housed in a centuries-old building in one of Mexico City’s oldest neighborhood. The Porfirio Díaz-era bar and backbar were found in a Puebla antique store and are over 100 years old (once you book here , you'll be notified of the exact location) It'll cost you $75 per-person for a six-spirit sampling, light snacks, and water. Inside, there are only six seats and a knowledgable barkeep/tour guide crafting a rich journey for you and your fellow spirit geeks. While tequila and mezcal are some of Mexico's greatest exports, there are dozens of other plant-based spirits like bacanora, sotol, raicilla, and charanda, distilled in micro-batch quantities in rural communities that never make it into commerical circulation—nor are they intended to. The team behind Ahuehuete has been collecting bottles throughout the years, traveling to rural villages to find interesting batches for their private collection.

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Best Time to Visit

Weather & Climate

Neighborhoods to Know

Benito Juarez International Airport Guide

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48 Hours in Mexico City

Day Trips From Mexico City

Mexico City's Top Attractions

Free Things to Do

Best Museums to Visit

Guide to Chapultepec Park

Shopping in Mexico City

Annual Events

How to See a Lucha Libre Match

Food to Try in Mexico City

Top Restaurants

Your Trip to Mexico City: The Complete Guide

Mexico City is a huge and vibrant megalopolis with a fascinating history dating back to the time of the Aztecs. As one of the world's largest cities by population,   Mexico City can be intimidating, but it’s a vibrant, engaging place with an abundance of attractions and services for travelers of all types. This Mexico City travel guide will give you an introduction to the multi-faceted destination and has the information you need to plan your stay.

Planning Your Trip

Best Time to Visit: If you can, plan your trip for the springtime, specifically late March or early April. At this time of year, the weather is warm during the day and cool at night, and the jacarandas are in bloom throughout the city. Language: Spanish is the main language spoken but there are several indigenous languages spoken in Mexico City (mainly Nahuatl, but also Mixteco, Otomí, Mazateco, and others). Many people who work in the tourism industry speak English, but the general population does not, so learn some Spanish phrases before you go! Currency: The Mexican peso (MXN) is the currency. The symbol is the same as a dollar sign ($), so be sure what currency prices are listed in (it will usually be pesos, but occasionally services offered to tourists are listed in US dollars ). Getting Around: A great way to explore Mexico City is by taking the Turibus , a hop-on-hop-off, double-decker, open-air sightseeing bus with stops at several of the city's main sights. However, the most economical way to get around is with public transportation. The Mexico City metro is large but fairly easy to navigate. When taking taxis, it's best to take authorized taxis or ask your hotel to call one for you. Alternatively, get an Uber. Travel Tip: On Mondays, most museums ( but not all! ) are closed, as is the first section of Chapultepec Park , so plan alternative activities if you’re in town on a Monday. Some ideas: go shopping, visit churches, go to Tlatelolco archaeological site (which doesn't have a museum), or visit the floating gardens in Xochimilco .

Things to Do

There is something for everyone in Mexico City. You can learn about the country's history, enjoy art in public spaces and museums, sample delicious food, shop until you drop, or enjoy a fun night out on the town. Art lovers, foodies, history buffs, and museum geeks will all be over the moon. As the site of the first Olympic games in Latin America and in a Spanish-speaking country,   sports history fans will be plenty entertained and even nature lovers will find something of interest (start by checking out the botanical garden on the UNAM campus )!

There is much more to do in Mexico City than you will have time for, so when planning your itinerary, do your research and prioritize. Be sure to leave plenty of time for getting from one place to the other—and for meals! Here are a few activities to get you started:

• Visit the Historic Center of Mexico City on foot, making stops at the Templo Mayor archaeological site which was the main temple of the Aztecs, the Metropolitan Cathedral which is Latin America’s largest and oldest cathedral, and the Palacio Nacional to see murals by Diego Rivera. The Historic Center is one of four UNESCO World Heritage sites in the city along with Xochimilco, the house of Luis Barragán, and the Central University City Campus.  
• Visit the National Anthropology Museum to learn about Mexico’s rich history and current ethnographic makeup.
• Go to the luchas ! Spend a fun evening watching a lucha libre wrestling show.

Explore more attractions with our full-length articles on the top Mexico City sights , the best free things to do and Mexico City day trips . 

What to Eat and Drink

Mexico City is the country's cultural and geographical hub, and you'll find a wide variety of specialties from all over the country, as well as international options. From street side taco stands to gourmet restaurants like Pujol and Quintonil (which are considered among the world's top 50 restaurants), and everything in between, you're bound to eat well here. If street food intrigues you but you find it intimidating, take a street food tour to get an introduction so you’ll know what to order when you venture out on your own.

As for drinks, you can try some of the traditional beverages made with agave , mezcal and pulque (not to mention tequila), or check out one of the city's stylish cocktail bars for the latest mixology creations. Some of the most iconic places to grab a drink include Bar La Opera (which has bullet holes in the ceiling from the time of the Mexican Revolution), and Miralto bar on the 40th floor of the Torre Latinoamericana overlooking the Palacio de Bellas Artes.

Explore our articles on the top dishes to try in Mexico City , the city’s best dining experiences , and the best bars .

Where to Stay

There are endless options for accommodations in Mexico City including Airbnbs, boutique stays, and luxury hotels. Decent economical options abound in the historical center and Colonia Tabacalera (near the Revolution Monument). Stay at Hotel Zocalo Central or Downtown Mexico for a home base in the center of town with nice views. If you’d rather be a bit further away from the hustle and bustle, check out boutique hotels in La Condesa and Roma neighborhoods such as Red Tree House or La Valise. If you’re looking for luxury, you can enjoy an upscale stay at the St. Regis or the Four Seasons on Paseo de la Reforma, or Las Alcobas in swanky Polanco district. Explore the different neighborhoods you can stay in, and our recommendations for the best boutique hotels.

Getting There

You will most likely fly in to the Benito Juarez International Airport (MEX) or perhaps Toluca (TLC). If you’re arriving over land from a different destination in Mexico, your point of arrival will probably be one of Mexico City's four major bus stations which are situtated in four corners of the city. From your arrival point, take an authorized taxi or Uber to your accommodation ⁠— although hailing a cab on the street is not as risky as it used to be, it's better to play it safe. Driving in Mexico City is not recommended for first time visitors as it’s not an easy city to find your way around and traffic tends to be congested.

Culture and Customs

There are a few cultural differences and customs that you should be aware of in Mexico City. In general, Mexicans tend to be more formal than people from the United States and Canada. Even though you're on vacation, it's a good idea to dress somewhat conservatively—Mexicans rarely wear shorts or tank tops in the city, so if you don't want to stand out too much, try to dress like the locals. It’s important to greet people before asking a question with a buenos días (good morning), buenas tardes (good afternoon), or buenas noches (good evening), depending on the time of day. Also, keep in mind that por favor (please) and gracias (thank you) are words that you cannot over use.

Mexican mealtimes may be on a different schedule than what you're used to, with the main meal of the day taken in the afternoon between 2 and 4 p.m. In restaurants, the server will not bring you the bill until you request it. Ask for “ la cuenta, por favor, ” or make a sign of writing in the air. Check your bill to make sure, but usually the tip is not included, and you should add 10 to 20 percent tip depending on the level of service. Tipping is customary in bars and restaurants, but not so much in food stalls and markets (though always appreciated). It's also customary to tip bellhops and cleaning staff at your hotel.

Money-Saving Tips

Mexico City is a truly affordable city and offers outstanding value at all price points. It's an excellent vacation destination for anyone on a budget. Of course each traveler will have to decide for themselves what's worth a splurge and where they want to cut back, but there are a few simple ways to maximize savings during your stay:

• Follow the Mexican mealtime schedule: have a big breakfast, which is generally the least costly meal of the day, then hold out until 2 or 4 p.m. for another large meal—you can find restaurants serving a multi-course " comida corrida " fixed price meal, and then if you're hungry at night, grab some tacos.
• Get around using public transportation. The Mexico City metro only costs a few pesos and is fairly easy to figure out. Consider it part of the adventure!
• Don’t buy overpriced drinking water and snacks at your hotel or tourist sites. Hopefully your hotel offers purified drinking water so you can refill your own bottle, but if not, make sure you buy your water, drinks and snacks at a corner store to carry with you or to have at your hotel during the night.

Learn more about the cheapest ways to have fun by exploring these free things to do in Mexico City and consider some budget travel tips.

United Nations Department of Economic and Social Affairs. " World Urbanization Prospects 2018: Highlights." Page 17. 2019.

Visit Mexico. "Mexico City: Brief History."

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Mexico City Guide

In this Mexico City Travel Guide I’m going to cover everything you need to know about visiting Mexico City including where to stay, what to eat, and the best things to do in Mexico City.

Mexico is definitely one of the most colorful places that I have visited. The colors, vibrancy and the Mexican food makes this country a must visit.

Its capital, Mexico City, CDMX, or simply Mexico (for those who live there) just to be a transit city to reach Cancun or the famous pyramids. The city calls for much more than that as there is so much you can do in CDMX as you plan the perfect Mexico City itinerary . 

Click for other Mexico guides

Did You Get Insurance Yet?

If 2020 taught us anything, it’s that you need to be prepared for anything!

The Insurance companies I personally recommend are Hey Mondo and  Safety Wing

Hey Mondo is great if you are looking for a great value flexible policy. They offer single trip cover, annual multi trip cover, and long term travel cover.

Safety Wing is great value with monthly cover starting at $39. It’s super easy to use and it just renews each month. I currently use them as they offer me free cover for my son as part of my policy.

Read my full travel insurance post here where I go into detail about the companies. 

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Top 10 Things to do In CDMX

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Historical Center of Mexico City or Zocalo is one of the most vibrant historic Centers that I have seen. The extension of Zocalo goes way beyond the set boundaries of the Center. You will not realize when the center actually ends and the surrounding area begins as you will always find the place buzzing with locals and tourists alike; Eating, Drinking, Singing, Shopping or just sitting in one corner of the crowded street playing beautiful music on an instrument of choice.

Golden post office

Not too far from the center, I bumped into the most amazing post office I have seen in my life. The Palacio de Correos de México, also known as the “Correo Mayor” was Built-in 1907. The interiors are adorned with intricate work covered in dazzling gold(not real) including the elevators. You can send out a postcard to your loved ones from this still functional palatial post office.

Frida Kahlo Museum

This quaint museum painted in cobalt blues is enough to take you into a different world. Once you enter the erstwhile home of Frida you realise the brilliance of her creativity and her work. The museum is open from 10 am till 5 pm. 

Now part of CDMX, Coyocan was earlier a separate village. This locality has a Bohemian appeal to it its colonial architecture and the Cobble Stoned streets. You can easily spend a whole day exploring the upscale cafes, some amazing museums, fantastic options to eat and drink or just sitting in the park watching the festivities going around you even without a festival.

Barbacoa Tacos

When in CDMX, trying the Barbacoa Tacos or Birria is a must. These are specially-made tacos that need to be cooked for at least 8 hours before it can be served to you. Most of the major traditional markets or Mercados in Mexico like Mercado De La Merced serve Barbacoa Tacos. Just sit on one of the stalls in the market and enjoy them with a beer!

Chapultepec Castle

Located in the picturesque Chapultepec Park , is this colossal castle called Chapultepec Castle which is a site to reckon with. Built in the 18th Century this structure had taken many avatars from being a home to a war headquarters to simply an observatory. Visiting this place gives you a unique experience of remnants of all of this in its architecture and design. All in all its half a day well spent when you visit the park and this castle.

Museo Nacional de Antropología

The other most important museum after Frida Kahlo Museum is Museo Nacional de Antropología or the National Museum of Anthropology . The museum hosts the world’s largest collection of ancient Mexican artifacts. Some of the most iconic Mesoamerican artifacts discovered to date can be found in the museum. If you want to understand Mexico’s history, then a visit here is a must. Maybe that is why it is the most visited museum in Mexico!

Patrick Miller Night Club

The eclectic club open only on Fridays looks like a dingy warehouse behind a dark gate. But once you are inside the club it is all dazzle, laser lights, and music. With new kinds of music every week, this place remains fresh every time you visit. But if you are looking to experience Mexican nightlife, this place is highly recommended.

Tequilas and Micheladas

If you are in Mexico and you have not tried the tequilas and the Micheladas then its a trip incomplete I say. Mexico serves its own Tequila in many different interesting ways. Though mostly served as a shot, many times you will find the shot is mixed with a dash of lemon or even tomato juice with chilli and salt on the edges of the shot glass! Similarly, you will find many street vendors mixing beer into a glass of spiced up tomato juice or lemon syrup. This traditional drink is known as Michelada! A very refreshing way to have your beer. What say?

Day trip to Puebla

Just 2 hours from CDMX is this sleepy little town known as Puebla . I fell in love with this colorful town. Particularly the ruins of the underground pyramid are something that you would not want to miss. Also, the site of El Parian, a stunning artisanal market is a memory I still carry with me. You can end your day with the typically made Mole or Mole Poblano, a very popular dish from Puebla.

Quick Tip:  Book accommodation, tours and transport ahead of time online to save money and stress. 

Best Mexico City Tours :  Click here to check out the top Mexico City tours Best Mexico City Accommodation: Click here to check out the best accommodation in Mexico City Best Mexico City Transport: Click here to book a bus, ferry, or train in Mexico City

What to eat in Mexico city

Mexico is a paradise for food lovers. Yes! For turned vegetarians like me as well!

Although there is a lot of usage of meat in all of the popular Mexican dishes like Tacos, Enchiladas, Mole, Tamale, Tostadas, Chilaquiles, Guacamole; But the good news is that there is hardly any dish which is not available without a vegetarian option. Options with Avocados, Peppers, Tomatoes, Corn, Chiles and even some delicious edible cactus is used in vegetarian versions of these foods.

Cafe De Tacuba in Mexico City is one of the oldest and delectable places to try authentic mexican cuisine. Tamale in Cafe De Tacuba is to die for!

Another authentic dish that is a must try in Mexico City is Barbacoa Tacos or simply Birria. These are specially made Tacos, the meat for which needs to be cooked for 8-12 hours! You will find so many people claiming to serve the best Birria, but Barbacoa Renatos and El Hidalguenese are most highly recommended.

Recommended Mexican Tour Companies

These are companies I 100% recommend booking activities within Mexico.  

Where Sidewalks End – One of my favorite Mexican based. companies offering boutique travel experiences you won’t find anywhere else. 

Turismo Channel – If you are traveling to Playa del Carmen then I recommend booking through my friend Vanessa at Turismo Channel.  You can check out their tours by   clicking here  and us code  claire10off  for 10% off group tours You can also   send her a WhatsApp message  quoting the code to receive the discount.

Mexico City Money Saving Tips

Mexico City is full of amazing museums and many of them offer free visiting days. E.g. Museo Nacional De Arte (MUNAL) or the National Art museum offers free entry on Sundays. Keep a lookout for the free days.

If you do not want to splurge on expensive Mexican restaurants but still want to enjoy the local food, keep an eye open for one of the ‘Salon Corona’(A chain of restaurants by Corona Beer Makers) that offers sumptuous Mexican food like Tacos and Enchiladas with local Corona beer.

Visiting the local markets is a great way to soak in the real Mexico City vibe for free. The colourful street markets like Mercado De La Merced, Mercado De San Juan and Mercado Coyoacan not only offer you cheap shopping but also some cheap delectable food stalls to have a delicious meal and cheap beer.

If you like to walk a lot like me then signing up for one of the free walking tours will be a good idea. There are many companies that offer free walking tours around different areas of CDMX.

My advice is also to know the taxi prices and as always, learn some Spanish ! It’s an instant way to save a lot of money. I took this course ran by my friends at Heart of Travel.

Mexico City Packing Advice

Mexico City is situated on a plateau and hence the weather in CDMX is slightly colder than the other areas. So carrying a jacket for evenings and mild winter clothings in winters is recommended. Any comfortable walking shoes will suffice, as there is not too much of adventure activity to do around.

For a full in-depth packing guide checkout Claire’s Mexico Packing Guide here

Quick Tip : View my full Mexico packing guide here including a downloadable checklist. And check out my Mexico Essentials shopping list here .

Where to Stay in Mexico City

Being the capital of a large country like Mexico , CDMX is a hub for travelers on business and pleasure alike. Hence the options to stay are abundant and available in all categories from 10-a-day hostels to suites and luxury boutique hotels.

I would recommend you to choose accommodation near the City Center from where it is very well connected to go to any part of the city by public transport and of course, a lot of attractions worth visiting are within a walking distance.

I stayed at the Regina Hostel located in the Historic Center. The vibrant and colorful hostel is worth staying in budget. It also offers private rooms other than shared dormitories.

How to Get to Mexico City (and how to get around)

CDMX is the only city in Mexico with a metro network and is a well-connected one, but it can get very confusing for a visitor.

Downloading and using the app ‘Mexico City Metro’ will help you plan your routes and train changes better.

That apart, local cabs are the most common and averagely priced option. Whenever I was short on time, I used cabs to move around.

Mexico also has Uber service available now. From the airport you have all the options to reach the City Center, be it a bus, metro or cab. All options are available and very well connected to the airport.

Quick Tip: Book authentic tours in Mexico city with Where Sidewalks End

The company was created by Ian a fellow travel blogger who lives in Oaxaca . You can see all of their Mexico experiences here. 

One of the most unique tours they offer is the Fearless in Mexico City Experience where you will enjoy the hot air balloon and culinary experiences with unusual foods.

Coworking in Mexico City

Mexico City is a thriving business hub, attracting entrepreneurs, startups, and professionals from various industries. Co-working spaces in the city often foster a dynamic environment where you can connect and collaborate with like-minded individuals, expanding your network and potentially creating new business opportunities.

If you are a Digital Nomad in Mexico and looking for a place to work from in Mexico City you will be overwhelmed with options. Whether you’re seeking a sleek and professional atmosphere or a more creative and laid-back environment, you’ll find a variety of options to choose from. This diversity allows you to select a workspace that aligns with your work style and enhances your productivity.

Here are 3 of my favorite places to work from in Mexico City :

1. WeWork : WeWork is a well-known global co-working brand with multiple locations in Mexico City. Known for its modern and stylish workspaces, WeWork offers a range of amenities such as high-speed internet, meeting rooms, and communal areas. With their flexible membership options, you can find a WeWork location that suits your needs in various neighborhoods across the city.

2. Impact Hub: Impact Hub is a global network of co-working spaces focused on social impact and innovation. Their Mexico City location provides a collaborative and inspiring environment for entrepreneurs, freelancers, and changemakers. In addition to workstations, they offer community events, workshops, and access to a network of like-minded individuals passionate about creating positive change.

3. Nest Coworking: Nest Coworking is a local co-working space in Mexico City that prides itself on its warm and welcoming atmosphere. With multiple locations throughout the city, Nest Coworking provides a range of flexible membership options and amenities, including high-speed internet, meeting rooms, and comfortable workstations. They also foster a sense of community by organizing networking events and workshops.

Mexico City Accommodation for Digital Nomad Vlog

Mexico City Safety Advice

Is it safe to travel to Mexico ? I was told by so many people not to reveal to Mexico as it is unsafe. But I did travel solo to Mexico and the broad answer to the question is an absolute yes!

Of course, it is not Switzerland or Norway, hence you need to have basic precautions in place.

Beware of the muggings and do not carry anything too expensive. Avoid traveling alone late at night, check with locals before venturing to unknown areas and establishments, and avoid some parts of Mexico which are famous for illicit activities. If you follow these basic precautions, I do not think you will go through any mishaps.

mexico Travel Guide planning

🧳 Any recommendations on what I should pack for Mexico?

Yes! I have created a whole packing guide to Mexico which you can read here and you can also check out my packing list for Mexico on Amazon here .

🚗 Where can I book bus or private transportation while I’m in Mexico?

I strongly recommend using GottoGo . You can book almost all transport in the major Mexican tourist destinations through them online. They don’t just cover buses they also cover shuttles, ferries, and private drivers.

🎫 Where can I buy tickets for museums, attractions, and tours in Mexico?

First and foremost check out all of the amazing Mexico tours Where Sidewalks End has. They are a small local company and they have some really special experiences.

For everything else I recommend either Viator  or GetYour Guide . 

If you are traveling to Cancun you can use GoCity and save up to 55% of the initial cost of entrance tickets to various museums, tours, and attractions!

If you are traveling to Playa del Carmen then I recommend booking through my friend Vanessa at Turismo Channel. You can check out their tours by clicking here and using the following discount codes for the best prices clairecaroff (car rental), claire10off (for 10% off group tours), claireprivate (for a discount on private tours). You can also send her a WhatsApp message quoting the above codes to receive the discount.

👩‍⚕️ What is the best insurance to have while traveling?

I recommend using Heymondo for a great value policy. The app also offers you 24/7 Dr Chat. For Digital Nomads check out SafetyWing  digital nomad insurance.

I have also written a blog post covering all my recommended travel insurance here

✈️ Any flight recommendations?

WayAWay offers you cheap flights with cashback. You can use this code CLAIRE22 to get 10% off. Otherwise Skyscanner or Expedia are my go-to flight searching platforms.

📱What do you use for internet connection while traveling?

I’m a big fan of personal WiFi devices and they have saved my ass so many times when traveling. I wrote a full review of the top travel WiFi devices you can read here . I personally use GlocalMe  as I can either pop in a physical sim card or use their local carrier.

With regards to my phone connection, I use e-sims while traveling, so rather than having to swap out my regular sim card I can download the app and buy a virtual sim card. I recommend using either Airhub or Alosim . Both have great coverage of multiple countries and are very easy to use.

🛏️ What is the best platform to use for booking accommodation?

The 3 best platforms that I normally use are Booking.com , Hotels.com , and Expedia  They offer great deals and multiple options. I always check all three to be sure of the best deals.

🛅 Do you have any luggage recommendations for traveling?

I do have a complete list of the best packing and luggage products that I recommend, you can check the list here . I’m currently traveling with this suitcase and this backpack . 

The Best Time To Visit Mexico City

Mexico City is situated on a higher plateau, hence unlike its tropical sister cities, the winters here are chilly and summers are rainy. The peak time to visit is between March to May, but as I always recommend, choosing the shoulder months is always a better option as you get lesser crowds and lower prices.

Namaskar! I am Shiva from India and share the passion of travelling with many of you. I am a very lazy traveller who hates planning too much before a trip and more often than not I end up bumping into some amazing places during my travels because of that which I would have missed normally. I give the credit to my inner voice ‘Shiva’ who kicks my laziness off and guides me during my travels. You can find about this ‘Shiva’ on my blog Shivatells which is created to share my experiences of travels and help fellow travellers save time and effort during theirs.

What to Read in Mexico

Lonely Planet Mexico (Country Guide)

Where would we be without the trusty Lonely Planet Mexico book?!? It really is the best all-around guide to Mexico. The only issue I ever have with these books is that often the information can be outdated, but if you want to really explore Mexico, not just the tourist trail version of Mexico then get this book on your Kindle . It’s oftern free if you have a kindle unlimited subscription .

Oaxaca: Home Cooking from the Heart of Mexico

It’s all about the food here in Mexico. Especially in Oaxaca, thought of as the culinary heart of Mexico. This Mexican cookbook is the first true introduction to Oaxacan cuisine by a native family, each dish articulates their story, from Oaxaca to the streets of Los Angeles and beyond.

The book showcases Mexican “soul food” serving up 140 authentic, yet accessible recipes using some of the purest pre-Hispanic and indigenous ingredients available. 

Midnight in Mexico: A Reporter's Journey Through a Country's Descent into Darkness

As much as I don’t want to perpetuate Mexico’s reputation as a county full of cartels, drugs, and danger. It can’t really be ignored, and I know many people are interested in learning more. So I’ve included Midnight in Mexico on my list of books to read. It’s a true crime book written by a Mexican-American journalist and migration lawyer. It’s about as close to the truth as you can get. Being. journalist here in Mexico is one of the most dangerous arrears you can have. But Corchado is known for never shying away from the truth reporting on government corruption, murders, and the drug cartels of Mexico. In 2007, Corchado received a tip that he could be their next target, he had twenty-four hours to find out if the threat was true…

The Secret Book of Frida Kahlo: A Novel

Are you even alive if you don’t know who Frida Kahlo is? If you are a Friday fan then this is the perfect fictional accompaniment to your Mexican vacation. Especially if you will be visiting Mexico City.

Using several of Frida’s notebooks as inspiration acclaimed Mexican novelist F. G. Haghenbeck was inspired to write this touching fictional account of her life.  Through the book, you are taken on a magical ride through this imagined life of Freida 

Like Water For Chocolate

An old, but a goodie! This one is for all of you lovers of romance novels! It’s described as:

“A novel of passion, food, and magic, Like Water For Chocolate is a romantic, poignant tale, touched with moments of magic, graphic earthiness, bittersweet wit – and recipes.”

Forbidden love, family obligations, and seduction by food… what more could you ask for in a novel!

Moving To Merida

I must confess, my friend Mexico Cassie wrote this book. That doesn’t mean it’s not a bloody brilliant guide to moving to Mexico , because it is. As someone who moved to Mexico there was so much of this book that resonated with me, even though I moved here myself, without a family. 

She goes in to great detail about the visa application process and some other notoriously tricky things like trying to buy a car or find a good school for your kids. 

If you are considering a move to Merida , or anywhere in Mexico actually this is a great read!

Check out My travel books

The Solo Girls Guide to Traveling Without Fear

The solo girls guide to becoming a digital nomad

Mexico blog posts.

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Is the Water in Mexico Safe to Drink? Guide to Mexico Drinking Water

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Ultimate Guide to Cozumel Scuba Diving

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24 Reasons Why Scuba Diving In Cozumel Is The Best

How to Get From Cancun to Cozumel (and Cozumel to Cancun)

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How to Get From Mexico to Guatemala (and Back)

What to Pack for a Trip to Mexico: Ultimate Mexico Packing List for Cancun, Tulum, and More

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Playa Del Carmen Food Tour Review

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When is Hurricane Season in Cancun? Preparing for Hurricane Season in Mexico

When is the Best Time to Visit Cancun?

The Best Beach Clubs Playa del Carmen

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Does Amazon Deliver To Mexico? Amazon Mexico Shopping Guide

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The Best Tulum Boutique Hotels

Isla Holbox Mexico Hotels You Need To Stay In

Complete guide to chichen itza mexico.

Pyramid Sound and Light Show: How to See the Chichen Itza Night Show

Riviera Maya Things to Do: Top Riviera Maya Excursions

Salsa Dancing Playa Del Carmen: Where to Go

Tulum Beach Guide: Best Beaches in Tulum

Things to Do in Holbox Mexico for Nature Lovers

Best Time To Visit Tulum: Avoiding the Tulum Rainy Season

Exploring Mayan Ruins Riviera Maya

How to Get To Bacalar Mexico

Tulum Cenote Diving

How To Get A Mexican Drivers License In Playa del Carmen

The Playa del Carmen Yoga Guide

The Best Tulum Cenotes To Visit

Things to do in Puerto Morelos

Glamping in the Riviera Maya

Tulum hostel review – the best hostels in tulum mexico.

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How To Get To Tulum – 6 Ways To Get From Cancun Airport To Tulum

The Ultimate Guide To Playa Del Carmen Nightlife

The Best Yoga Retreats Mexico 2023/24

The Complete Guide To Visiting Las Grutas de Tolantongo Mexico

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Whale Shark Tours Playa del Carmen | Everything You Need to Know

The Playa del Carmen Digital Nomads Guide

Your Ultimate 14-Day Yucatan road trip Itinerary

Top 12 Things To Do In San Miguel De Allende

The Ultimate Guide to Pueblos Magicos of Nayarit, Mexico

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Best Things to Do in Guadalajara Mexico

Guanajuato Mexico Itinerary

The Ultimate Playa Del Carmen Beach Guide

Is guadalajara safe guadalajara safety advice for female travelers.

The Ultimate Guide to Pueblos Magicos in the State of Guanajuato

The Best Wellness Activities in Guanajuato Mexico

Things to Do in Puerto Escondido Mexico

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My Kambo Experience | Doing Kambo In Mexico

How to Get to Sayulita

Scuba Diving in Puerto Morelos

My Personal Journey With Ayahuasca Mexico

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The Complete Guide To Huasteca Potosina San Luis Potosi

The Ultimate Sayulita Surf Guide for Beginners

Top Playa del Carmen Excursions

Best Surfing in Mexico

How To Get From Playa del Carmen To Tulum

Claire Summers

Hi I’m Claire!

At 34 I sold all my worldly possessions that wouldn’t fit into 3 boxes or my backpack and hit the road.

I started Claire’s Itchy Feet to inspire women to pack their bags and travel more. With no plans to stop anytime soon I’m always looking for my next adventure be it attempting to surf or climbing a volcano I’ll try (almost) anything once!

© 2023 Claire’s Itchy Feet  

Mexico City

Don’t be intimidated by Mexico City’s size. It’s easy to find a corner of CDMX—formerly known as the Distrito Federal—for you, and one visit is rarely enough. Visitors quickly fall under the city’s spell: the music, the people, the street food and murals, and the thrilling juxtaposition of grand European-style boulevards, ultramodern architecture, and ancient Aztec sites. As journalist David Lida asserts: “Mexico City is the capital of the 21st century.” Give in to its siren song.

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Palacio De Bellas Artes

Photo by Ramiro Reyna Jr/Shutterstock

When’s the best time to go to Mexico City?

Weather-wise, it’s almost always a good time to visit Mexico City. Because of the altitude (7,382 feet), temperatures remain fairly stable throughout the year, averaging in the mid-50s to low 70s. (Bring a light jacket and scarf and you’ll be fine.) But our favorite time to visit is between Christmas and Epiphany (January 6), because while almost everything’s open, the pollution and traffic are mellower because of the business holidays. Another great time to come is in the days around September 6 for the Independence Day festivities.

How to get around Mexico City

Mexico City’s Benito Juárez International Airport (MEX) is the primary point of arrival and departure for international flights. Taxis into the city center are affordable and take only about 20–30 minutes, depending on traffic.

Mexico City is massive, which can be overwhelming even to experienced visitors. AFAR’s partner, Context Travels offers visitors a private, historian- or architect-led introduction to downtown Mexico City from its roots as a center of government and ritual in the Aztec Empire to its commercial and cultural modern present.

Once in town, you can get around easily on the Metro, Metrobus, taxis, Uber, and the city’s bike-share program, Ecobici. The Metro and the Metrobus are extensive and very inexpensive. Taxis are a good option, to, but stick to the official pink cabs when hailing from the street. Uber is very affordable in CDMX and the app makes it easy for non-Spanish speakers to get around.

Can’t miss things to do in Mexico City

- Two pilgrimage sites for art- and design-minded tourists—architect Luis Barragán’s House and Studio and Frida Kahlo’s Casa Azul —require tickets and often are sold out. Secure your tickets before you leave home. - Cinco de Mayo is not a big deal in Mexico. If you’re looking for a party, come for Mexican Independence Day (September 16), Day of the Dead (November 1), or the Gay Pride parade in late June instead. (The annual December 12 feast day of the Virgin of Guadalupe is more somber, but still pretty epic in scope.) - Try and catch a Luche Libre match at Arena Mexico . You’ll get ridiculously fun entertainment, as well as recognize many of the same motifs you’ve seen in the city’s churches and cultural sites—good and evil, vivid primary colors, capes, and masks.

Food and drink to try in Mexico City

• Local lunchtime is around 3 p.m., and dinner after 8.
• Tip bartenders and restaurant servers 20% of the bill. You can get away with 15%, but live large and do your part for the economy.
• Reservations for most of the big-name restaurants are available on apps like OpenTable and Resy. Book ahead and don’t wait until you get to town to get a table.
• As in seemingly every other modern city, there are craft beer and artisanal cocktail scenes in CDMX. Jardín Chapultepec , a chill beer garden hidden between industrial buildings at the edge of the Condesa neighborhood, offers impressive examples of Mexican craft beers, as well as food stalls and picnic tables. Licorería Limantour , in Roma Norte, is our favorite destination for cocktails. The elegant Art Deco-inspired space is slightly less packed on weeknights so you can give your meticulously crafted drink the attention it demands.

Culture in Mexico City

There’s no better place to witness Mexico City’s sometimes confusing clash of culture than at the Zócalo . Here, in the main square of the city, you can relish centuries of history, grandiose architecture, and exceptional people-watching. The whole tension of the city’s past, present, and future is here, with the cathedral revealing the Catholic and colonial history and the Templo Mayor , right next door, practically throbbing with the violent Aztec past. The square is a swirl of activity with noisy street performers, vendors, local teenagers, and traffic all fighting for your attention.

Local travel tips for Mexico City

• Cantinas will always serve snacks (called botanas ) with your drinks.
• This is not a city where you wear shorts.
• Protests happen from time to time and are annoying and occasionally paralyzing (at least when it comes to traffic), but as long as they’re peaceful, police are not allowed to intervene.

Guide Editor

Julie Schwietert Collazo

Mexico City   Travel Guide

Courtesy of Torresigner | Getty Images

16 Best Things To Do in Mexico City

Mexico City, officially known as Ciudad de México (CDMX), is a growing and vibrant metropolis nestled in the heart of Mexico. The capital city of Mexico offers a blend of history, culture and gastronomy that attracts millions of annual visitors. From

• All Things To Do

Museo Nacional de Antropología Museo Nacional de Antropología

Located within the sprawling Chapultepec Forest , the Museo Nacional de Antropología (National Museum of Anthropology) showcases artifacts from Mexico's pre-Columbian era, dating from about 100 B.C. to A.D. 1521. Housed within the facility’s 22 rooms are artifacts, including the famous Aztec Calendar Stone, known as Piedra del Sol, as well as the ancient statue of Xochipilli, the Aztec god of art, games, beauty, dance and maize (among others). The museum offers a look at how tradition, culture and life were formed in all regions of Mexico, and it also educates visitors on how Mexico’s indigenous descendants live today. 

Past visitors said this is a must-see if you’re interested in the ancient cultures of Mexico/Mesoamerica. Reviewers appreciated that the explanatory text features English translations. The museum is so extensive that many travelers said you can spend a whole day exploring the many collections and exhibits and recommend giving yourself plenty of time to visit. As one of the largest and most visited museums in Mexico, the grounds are also home to a gift shop, a cafeteria and the National Library of Anthropology and History. 

Bosque de Chapultepec Bosque de Chapultepec free

The main park in Mexico City, Bosque de Chapultepec (Chapultepec Forest) was once the temporary home of the Aztec empire after its citizens migrated to modern-day Mexico City in the 13th century. Today, the 1,600-acre Chapultepec is Mexico City's largest park and is popular among families seeking respite from the busy and crowded city.

Divided into three sections, the park is home to many cultural interests, such as the presidential residence, the former presidential palace, a zoo and several museums (including the highly recommended Museo Nacional de Antropología ). The park also hosts numerous military monuments and effigies of Aztec kings, as well as restaurants and playgrounds, plus lots of green space for stretching. What's more, the park features a large lake, where visitors and locals alike can rent pedal boats to cruise around the water (a particular highlight for kids). On the weekends, local vendors fill the park and sell everything from souvenirs to art to snacks.

Palacio de Bellas Artes Palacio de Bellas Artes free

Considered the cultural center of Mexico City, the Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts) is a must-visit. The exterior of this 20th-century palace showcases art nouveau and art deco-style architecture, while the inside features marble floors and vaulted glass windows. 

In addition to its architectural grandeur, the building hosts cultural events in the national theater, including music, dance, theater, opera and literary performances. The museum at the palace also houses several famous murals, including the work of the famous Mexican muralist Rufino Tamayo. On the top floor, you'll find the National Museum of Architecture, which showcases the work and lives of famous Mexican architects, and multiple art museums and galleries. 

Popular Tours

Hot Air Balloon Flight over Teotihuacan, from Mexico City

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Zócalo (Plaza de la Constitución) Zócalo (Plaza de la Constitución) free

U.S. News Insider Tip: The Zócalo attracts throngs of visitors and locals, so visit in the early morning or afternoon during a weekday to avoid the heaviest crowds. – Kayla Hui

Officially known as Plaza de la Constitución, El Zócalo is the main public square and one of the most recognizable places in Mexico City. It’s also one of the world’s largest city squares. It contains a giant Mexican flag at its center and has been the centerpiece of public gatherings since the days of the Aztec empire (it was considered the ceremonial center of Tenochtitlán). The site also hosts annual, widely attended religious events during Holy Week and for Corpus Christi, as well as fairs, concerts, and parades. Several historic buildings also border the square, including the city's national cathedral , the National Palace  and federal buildings.

Museo Frida Kahlo Museo Frida Kahlo

One of the best-known museums in Mexico City exhibits the life and work of its most famous artist: Frida Kahlo. The museum, located in the Coyoacan suburb, is also known as La Casa Azul (The Blue House), and was Kahlo's former residence. It hosts some impressive examples of her works, but travelers say that the best part of visiting the house is seeing where the artist lived and painted with her husband, artist Diego Rivera. Along with paintings by both artists, folk art, photos, documents, books and furnishings, the house also displays personal objects.

Recent visitors to the property said it's a must-see for fans of the artist, saying it shows her life and work in a very personal light. Reviewers were particularly impressed with the display of her clothing and dresses. If you want to take photos, there is an additional modest “permit” fee. 

Basílica de Santa María de Guadalupe Basílica de Santa María de Guadalupe free

U.S. News Insider Tip: During the summer months, pack a hat and water bottle (there is little shade within the complex). If you plan to use the bathroom on site, bring a couple of pesos with you to use the bathroom and buy toilet paper. – Kayla Hui 

The Basílica de Santa María de Guadalupe (Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe) is an important religious site in Mexico City. Construction for the first shrine built to honor the Virgin Mary of Guadalupe started in 1695 on Tepeyac Hill. However, nearly 300 years' worth of construction and environmental damage threatened the integrity of the basilica, so a new basilica was built on the same plaza in the 1970s.

Templo Mayor Templo Mayor

Before Spanish colonization, Templo Mayor served as the religious center for the Aztec people. When Spanish conquistadors arrived in the early 16th century, the temple was among many structures that were destroyed and a new cathedral was built on top of the ruins. It wasn't until 1978 that the temple dedicated to the Aztec gods Huitzilopochtli and Tláloc (gods of war and water) was unearthed in the heart of Mexico City. Today, the area remains an active archeological site and the adjoining museum houses thousands of  artifacts, including 2,500 wooden objects from the site. 

Recent visitors said it's fascinating to see the ancient ruins that are tucked away in the center of the city. Many said it's worth spending time in the museum as well, but the site and scale can't match up to the massive Museo Nacional de Antropología . Still, the whole complex has been deemed a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is one of Mexico City's most popular attractions. If you’re visiting during the summer months, travelers suggest you time your visit for the morning to avoid the sweltering midday heat. Reviewers also warn that most of the information is listed in Spanish only.

Museo de Arte Popular Museo de Arte Popular

U.S. News Insider Tip: Ditch the large bags and water bottles prior to your visit as you may be denied entry. – Kayla Hui

This folk art museum features handicrafts from all across Mexico and details the country's history and its many cultures. If you want to find out more about the country’s indigenous communities, this is the place to go, according to travelers. Exhibits include glasswork from Tecali, pottery from Michoacán, masks from Chiapas and alebrijes , the colorful painted animal figures from Oaxaca, among other treasures. Make sure to take time to admire the building itself – the 1920s art deco building was the former headquarters of the fire department.

Xochimilco, Coyoacán & Frida Kahlo Museum

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Chalpultepec Castle Chalpultepec Castle

U.S. News Insider Tip: Sundays are free for all residents of Mexico and expats living in Mexico, so try to avoid visiting that day if you can. It can get crowded, so it’s recommended to go in the morning when the castle first opens. – Kayla Hui

Constructed beginning in 1725, Chalpultepec Castle has served many purposes in its centuries of use; it was a military academy, an observatory, and the only castle in North America to house rulers, including Emperor Maximilian I and his wife Empress Carlota. It would later be established as the National Museum of History by Lázaro Cárdenas in 1939, which would open the castle to visitors. Located at the entrance of Chalpultepec Park , it’s a historical site that can’t be missed on your next visit to Mexico City. 

Catedral Metropolitana Catedral Metropolitana free

Mexico's national cathedral – the vaulting, austere, ornate church on the Zócalo' s north end – was once the site of an ancient Aztec precinct, so it has housed the city's spiritual core for centuries. The cathedral was built between 1573 and 1813 after the Spanish conquest of Tenochtitlan and is considered one of Mexico City's many must-see attractions. What’s more, the cathedral is one of the largest churches in Latin America. It’s believed that the materials used to construct the church were taken from the destroyed pyramids and structures belonging to the Aztecs. Highlights of the massive cathedral include five naves, 14 chapels, two of the largest 18th-century organs in the Americas, 150 windows and a painting by famed Spanish artist Bartolome Esteban Murillo.

Depending on your interest in Mexican history and architecture, you could spend anywhere from an hour to a half a day at the cathedral (it’s free to enter). Past visitors recommended paying to take a tour of the interior with a member of the cathedral’s staff, who reviewers say offer a wealth of information about the cathedral’s far-reaching history. According to recent visitors, tours cost approximately 100 Mexican pesos (about $6). Recent visitors said the massive structure is stunning to behold, and even if you don't want to take the time to explore the inside, it's worth the photo-op of the exterior. The cathedral is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. and admission is free. Many of the best Mexico City walking tours make stops here, which can be another way to hear an in-depth retelling of the cathedral’s history and significance.  For more information, including Mass times, visit the cathedral's website (in Spanish).

Museo Soumaya Museo Soumaya free

From exceptional architecture to more than 66,000 featured works, Museo Soumaya is one of Mexico City’s most iconic museums. Established in 1994, Museo Soumaya’s main goal is to preserve and exhibit Mexico and Europe’s artistry. Currently, it houses the largest collection of works by Auguste Rodin outside of France, in addition to artwork by Diego Rivera, Titian, Picasso, Monet and more. 

Beyond the art, the architecture alone is worth seeing. The exterior of the six-story building is wrapped in mirrored hexagons, and the building is the brainchild of Mexican architect Fernando Romero. Recent travelers say Museo Soumaya is reminiscent of New York City’s Guggenheim (both museums are architecturally stunning and feature a circular interior with each floor organized by art type). Some reviewers recommend starting your visit at the top and winding your way down. 

Palacio Nacional Palacio Nacional free

The National Palace holds the federal executive branch of the Mexican government and sits along Mexico City's main public square, El Zócalo . The palace itself is a massive, ornate building that contains several gardens, murals and fountains in the Spanish Renaissance architectural style. Its highlights are several Diego Rivera murals painted in panoramic style across the palace's walls, which past visitors say are a must-see. These murals depict the stages of Mexican history, from pre-Columbian days to the current age.

Because the Mexican president lives and works within the palace, visitors can only access the site on a guided tour. Tours are free, but can’t be booked in advance online. According to recent visitors, you must go to the ticket office at the Museum of Art of the Ministry of Finance & Public Credit, where you can inquire about tour availability and make reservations in person (this is also where tours depart from). Some reviewers reported success booking tickets in advance by emailing [email protected] with information about the preferred tour date and number of people attending. Along the approximately hourlong tours, you’ll see the Rivera mural collections and the courtyards. You may also get the chance to glimpse the exterior of the legislative chambers. 

Museo Casa Luis Barragán Museo Casa Luis Barragán

Luis Barragán was a prominent Mexican architect renowned for his modernist style, and his former home – which was first constructed in 1947 and now functions as a museum – is one of the finest examples of his work. The museum is an off-the-beaten-path attraction that travelers say will please all, even those not schooled in architectural history. The house is known for its vivid colors, brilliant use of natural light and its impressive garden with a maze of corridors and trees. In 2004, it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

Recent visitors said the history of the house, in addition to its interesting architecture, is captivating. However, a handful of recent reviewers were disappointed with the ticket reservation process. To visit, you must book a self-guided or guided tour (available in Spanish and English). Self-guided visits are only available on Thursdays at select times. Tickets for self-guided tours cost 450 Mexican pesos (about $26) per person (note that children 12 and younger are not permitted in the house). Guided tours are available at select times Monday through Wednesday, Friday and Saturday Tickets for guided tours cost more. Tickets are released every Tuesday at noon (Mexico City time).  

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Torre Latinoamericana Torre Latinoamericana

Open since 1956, Torre Latinoamericana, the 44-story skyscraper in Centro Histórico, is the place to go if you want the best views of the city. Similar to the Empire State Building in New York City , this tower offers visitors jaw-dropping views from its observation deck and restaurant, making it the perfect opportunity to pull out your camera for that Instagram-worthy picture. 

Recent visitors recommended heading up to the top of the tower during sunset to admire the shifting light as it illuminates buildings like the neighboring Palace of Fine Arts. Travelers also warned that if smog levels are high, you won’t be able to see much from the tower’s peak. Some reviewers recommend spending time in the on-site museum, which details the history of Mexico City and the construction of the tower. 

Teotihuacán Teotihuacán

U.S. News Insider Tip: There is no shade inside the archeological site, so you’ll want to wear a hat. It’s also helpful to have a small backpack to hold a water bottle, sunscreen and toilet paper to use in the washrooms at the site. – Kayla Hui

One of many UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the Mexico City region, Teotihuacán ( teh -o-tee-wa- can ) contains some of the largest pre-Hispanic pyramids in all of Mexico. The site contains many popular constructions, including the Palace of the Plumed Butterfly, which showcases various columns of winged creatures, and the awesome Pyramid of the Sun, which sits at the heart of the small city. The nearby museum, Museo de la Sitio, also holds many artifacts from the period.

Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM) Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM) free

The Universidad Nacional Autónoma de Mexico (Central University City Campus of the National University of Mexico) includes 32 academic programs, the Mexican Olympic stadium, a Mexican cultural center, a nature preserve and the city's Central Library. The main campus is now designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The city's famous muralists have made their mark on the campus, and travelers recommend you check out the work of famous painter David Alfaro Siqueiros at the Rectorate Tower or the work of Juan O'Gorman at the Central Library. The campus also holds the University Museum of Contemporary Art, an excellent spot for viewing Mexico's more recent cultural offerings. The sculpture garden at the art museum is a particular highlight for past visitors, as is the botanic garden.

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4 Days in Mexico City: Epic Itinerary and Travel Guide

Mexico City is a unique place. Not only is it huge, being the largest city in North America, but it’s also packed full of history, amazing restaurants and tons of fun things to do. While you could easily live in Mexico City for months and never run out of things to do, for a first trip, I recommend 4-5 days. This is enough time to get a feel for the city and experience many of the wonderful attractions, restaurants and historical sites that it has to offer. Let’s get right into your 4 day Mexico City itinerary and travel guide. 

Note: these days are packed pretty full of activities! 4 days is a good amount of time for a first trip to CDMX, but because there’s so much to do and see, this itinerary is pretty busy. The good news is, it’s totally customizable, so it’s easy to take things out if you want more low-key days, or if you decide you want to spend more time at any of the stops!

Where to Stay in Mexico City

There are many great neighborhoods to stay in when visiting Mexico City. My favorite is definitely Roma Norte, followed closely by Coyoacan, Polanco and Condesa. The Historic Center, Centro Historico, while fun to visit, isn’t necessarily where I’d recommend basing yourself. This is just my personal preference, but I found the other neighborhoods to be nicer and quieter with just as much to do and even better restaurants and cafes. 

Hotels in Mexico City:  

• NaNa Vida CDMX – Roma Norte 
• ULIV Colima – Roma Norte
• Brick Hotel Mexico City – Roma Norte
• W Mexico City – Polanco 
• Pug Seal Allan Poe – Polanco
• Casa Tuna – Coyoacán
• H21 Hospedaje Boutique – Coyoacán 

Hostels in Mexico City   

• Casa Pepe – Historic Center 
• Viajero CDMX Centro Hostel – Historic Center
• Casa Pancha – Condesa 

Itinerary for 4 Days in Mexico City

Note: This day involves quite a bit of walking. Instead of walking between stops, Ubers and DiDis (ride share app) are available and inexpensive. Just be aware that with traffic you may spend the same amount of time in a car that you would walking between destinations. 

On your first day in Mexico City I recommend exploring the Centro Historico and Zocalo. Hop in an Uber or DiDi and get ready for a fun morning. 

Enjoy Breakfast at a Delicious Cafe 

Start your day at Cafe Regina for a delicious coffee and breakfast. This cafe is located on a pedestrian only street and is a wonderful place to grab a quick meal. From Cafe Regina, you’re close to many of the major attractions in the Centro Historico. 

Note: Farmacia Internacional is another amazing place to grab coffee or breakfast, and it’s very close to the next stop on the day’s itinerary – just 6 minutes walking to Mercado de la Ciudadela. 

Wander Through Mercado de la Ciudadela

From Cafe Regina, walk 15 minutes to Mercado de la Ciudadela. On the way, Mercado San Juan is also worth a quick walk through. 

This is my favorite market in Mexico City! In Mercado de la Ciudadela, you’ll find tons of artisan items, handicrafts, jewelry and other souvenirs. I found this market to be much less crowded than other markets in the area, and most of the vendors were so kind. Mercado de la Ciudadela is also a great place for photography. It’s colorful, bright and a fun place to snap some photos. I recommend going early, right when it opens at 10am. 

Visit the Palacio de Bellas Artes 

From Mercado de la Ciudadela take a 15 minute walk to the beautiful Palacio de Bellas Artes. This cultural center is absolutely stunning and, in my opinion, one of the most beautiful buildings in Mexico City.  

Take in the Views from the the 8th Floor of Sears 

If you want even more beautiful views of the Palacio de Bellas Artes, head across the street to Sears Department Store. Head to the 8th floor and you’ll find the Finca Don Porfirio coffee shop with absolutely breathtaking views of the Palacio de Bellas Artes. 

 Finca Don Porfirio opens at 11am, and I recommend being there as close to opening as possible to avoid a long wait. The coffee at Finca Don Porfirio is pretty good and it is 100% worth it for the views. 

OPTIONAL: Pasteleria Ideal and Mirador Torre Latino 

If you’re still hungry, or have room for a little snack, walk over to Pasteleria Ideal – just 5 minutes from Sears. This famous pastry shop is known for their incredible variety of inexpensive pastries. It’s fun to walk through and pick up a few sweet treats. 

After securing your treats, head over to the Mirador Torre Latino, but only if it’s a clear day. If it’s cloudy, you won’t have good views. There is often a line for Mirador Torre Latino, so I’ve added this as an optional stop. It’s 160 Pesos per person to enter, so it’s definitely affordable. If you enjoy viewpoints, and it’s a nice day, then this is probably worth the stop. 

Check out the House of Tiles (Casa de los Azulejos )

From Sears or Mirador Torre Latino, take the one minute walk to the beautiful 18th century House of Tiles. This beautiful building reminds me so much of Portugal, and it’s a great place to snap some photos. The interior of the building is equally beautiful, and is home to a Sanborns restaurant. While the food at Sanborns, a chain restaurant, isn’t necessarily fantastic, the ambiance is lovely and it’s a beautiful place to have a drink and appetizer. 

Shop along Francisco I. Madero Avenue

After visiting the House of Tiles, you’re just one street away from Francisco I. Madero Avenue, a pedestrian-only shopping street that will take you right to the Zócalo, Mexico City’s main square. The Zócalo has roots and visible ruins that date back to the Aztecs!

Check out the Beautiful Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral

This Cathedral is one of the focal points of the Zocalo. The cathedral is truly beautiful inside and out and it’s definitely worth a visit. It’s free to enter, but you can leave donations or purchase candles to light. 

Explore the Templo Mayor Museum

This museum is fascinating. Located just behind the Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral, the Templo Mayor Museum showcases archeological finds and ruins from the Aztec civilization. The museum is just 90 pesos to enter and free entry is available for children, students and  teachers. If you don’t have time to visit the entire museum, there is a terrace area that is free to visit. From the terrace, you can view some of the ruins, and they are so interesting to see. 

Grab a Drink at a Rooftop Bar 

After exploring the Historic Center of Mexico City, start your evening with a drink on a rooftop bar overlooking the Zocalo. 

A great option is on the roof of Librería Porrúa, a bookstore in the Centro Historico. On the roof of the bookstore you’ll find a casual rooftop bar with beautiful views, as well as the El Mayor restaurant. The bar is a great place to enjoy a drink and watch the sunset. 

In addition to the bar on the rooftop of Librería Porrúa, Terazza Catederal (located on the 6th floor of Hostel Mundo Joven)  is another great rooftop bar to check out with views of the Zocalo. 

Have Dinner at Cafe de Tacuba

Cafe de Tacuba is one of the oldest restaurants in Mexico City, opening its doors in 1912. Just a quick walk from the Zocalo, it’s right in the hustle and bustle of the Centro Historico. The restaurant is a former convent, and to honor the building’s history, the waitresses are dressed as nuns. The decor in Cafe de Tacuba is truly beautiful, with its colonial architecture, art and stained glass windows. To make it even better, in the evenings a mariachi band plays. Overall, it’s a wonderful place to have dinner. 

They have a wide selection of traditional Mexican dishes on their menu, including numerous vegetarian options. 

End Your Day with Churros at Churreria el Moro

A trip to Mexico City certainly isn’t complete without visiting Churreria el Moro – a favorite since 1935. The original Churreria el Moro is still open today, just a 10 minute walk from Cafe de Tacuba, in the Historic Center. 

There will likely be a line for these delicious churros, but it’s definitely worth the wait. I recommend eating in, instead of doing take out, so you can admire the beautiful interior. The blue and white tiles and design are a beautiful piece of history.  Be sure to also get some hot chocolate to dip the delicious churros in – it’s the best combination. 

Start your Day at a Cafe in Roma Norte  

There are tons of great coffee shops in the Roma Norte area. Pick any of them to start off your day and enjoy a coffee and some breakfast. There are so many great cafes to choose from, but a few of my favorites include: 

• An adorable, old world style cafe. This is a great place to have a relaxing breakfast before a full day of exploring. Cafe Nin opens at 7am. 
• A bookstore with an indoor/outdoor cafe and multiple locations. They don’t open until 10am, but it’s a great place to have brunch. 
• A beautiful, elegant cafe with both indoor and outdoor seating. The ambiance is relaxing and they have a wonderful menu. They serve a variety of beautiful coffee drinks. 
• This bakery has become TikTok famous, so there will likely be a line for their delicious pastries. If you don’t want to wait for a table, there’s also a take out line. Whether you eat in or takeaway, be sure to try their guava roll pastry! 
• With three locations in the Roma area, Qūentin Café serves delicious coffee and pastries. This is a great stop for a quick coffee and breakfast before a day of exploring. 

Note: if you prefer to go on a guided bus tour that includes most of the day’s activities as well as transportation, check out the below options. Just keep in mind that they are large bus tours that offer limited flexibility. 

• Xochimilco, Coyoacán and Frida Kahlo Museum Tour
• Xochimilco & Coyoacán Private Tour
• Xochimilco, Coyoacán and Frida Kahlo Museum Private Tour

Take a Ride on a Trajinera in Xochimilco 

Taking a trajinera boat ride in the Xochimilco neighborhood is one of the most iconic things to do in Mexico City. These colorful, rowed boats (gondola style), are taken through a system of canals. While on the trajineras, you can purchase food, drinks and souviners from other floating boats (how cool right??) You can even hire a mariachi band to perform and they’ll come (literally jump) onto your boat to play a few songs. 

Important things to know about the Trajineras:

The trajineras are open from 9am-6pm daily. I recommend going in the morning, on a weekday if possible, as the trajineras get very, very busy and you can get stuck in boat traffic. 

Trajineras are BYOB (you can also bring snacks), which is a great way to save money. If you don’t want to pack snacks, no problem, you can purchase tons of items from vendors in boats along the canals. 

Each trajinera can fit up to 20 people, so grab some friends and split the cost! 

You can rent a trajinera for as long as you’d like, but a great amount of time is 1.5 hours (this is also, often, the minimum). In 1.5 hours you can have a lot of fun, but still save time for other sightseeing and other activities during the rest of the day. 

From downtown Mexico City (Roma Norte, Centro Historico, etc), an Uber ride will be anywhere from 1 hour to 1 hour and 45 minutes each way. Ubers will likely cost anywhere from $10-$14 each way.

How to get to Xochimilco

While you can Uber to Xochimilco and find a trajinera on your own, this can be stressful. To start, there is very limited cell service in Xochimilco, therefore calling an Uber can be difficult. Second, unless you speak Spanish, or are great at bargaining, you will likely pay way more than the standard $600 peso per hour rate. 

While it is more expensive, I recommend a guided tour – especially if you’re in a smaller group. This will make the experience less stressful and easier to navigate. The downsides to tours, however, is that they are less flexible with timing and more expensive. Additionally, many tour providers combine the trajineras in Xochimilco with other activities, like visiting Coyoacan. This can be good for some travelers, but others prefer to explore Coyoacan on their own. In the end, it is all up to your personal preference as a traveler and how you prefer to spend the day.

Xochimilco Tours:

• Includes transportation and pick-up in Mexico City! 
• Includes transportation to Xochimilco, but not back to CDMX. 
• Xochimilco and Mexican Fiesta

Head to the Coyoacán Neighborhood

Coyoacan is about 55-60 minutes from Xochimilco. You’ll spend the rest of the day exploring this area. 

Visit the Frida Kahlo Museum 

Make sure you book timed tickets in advance for the Frida Kahlo Museum , spots fill up quickly. This is one of the most popular museums in Mexico City. La Casa Azul (The Blue House, aka the Frida Kahlo Museum) is located just a few minute’s walk from the center of Coyoacan. 

La Casa Azul was Frida Kahlo’s home, where she was born, grew up, lived with her husband Diego Rivera, and later, died. Now, the house is a museum dedicated to her art and incredible life.  

Wander Through Mercado Coyoacán (Coyoacán Market)

Not far from La Casa Azul, Mercado Coyocan is a local market that features souvenirs, artisan items, fresh produce and local food. It’s a fun market to walk through and do some shopping, grab a quick snack, or just enjoy the atmosphere. 

Visit the Artisan Market in Jardin Allende Park 

Directly across the street from Mercado Coyoacan, you’ll find Jardin Allende park. On the weekends, this park turns into an art market, where local artists sell their work. This was one of my favorite stops in Coyoacan. You’ll find beautiful art and it’s a great experience to be able to talk with the artists about their work.

Relax in Jardin Centenario 

After a full day of activities, a short rest in Jardin Centenario, Coyoacan’s main square, is needed. Admire the beautiful Parroquia San Juan Bautista (Catholic Church), the Coyote Fountain, the colorful COYOACAN letters, and the beautiful Alcaldía Coyoacán (town hall). 

This town center is so beautiful and there is always a ton going on. Surrounding the town square there are also a great variety of shops, restaurants and cafes to pop into. 

Have Dinner in Coyoacán or Juarez 

If you’d like to stay in Coyoacan for dinner, there are some great restaurants to check out. 

La Coyoacana is a fun pick with mariachi music and an outdoor courtyard. TIP: if you choose La Coyoacana make sure you get a seat in the courtyard, the ambiance is much more fun and lively, and the decor is more beautiful. On the menu you’ll find a variety of traditional Mexican dishes with a few vegetarian options. 

One thing to note about La Coyoacana, although the overall experience was good, the service is pretty poor. Don’t let that stop you from dining there, just don’t expect excellent (or even very good) service. They don’t take reservations, so there may be a wait for a table.

Other restaurants to check out in Coyoacan: 

• Los Danzantes
• Corazon de Maguey

Elly’s Restaurant in Juarez 

If you’re willing to take an Uber to Juarez, 30-40 minutes from Coyoacan, Elly’s restaurant is one of my favorites in Mexico City. Although a little far from Coyoacan, if you’re staying in or near the Roma Norte neighborhood, this restaurant isn’t too far away (10-15 minutes by Uber.)

Elly’s restaurant feels like somewhere you’d find in NYC (in a good way). Interestingly, they describe themselves as “Elly’s es dónde la Ciudad de México y Nueva York se encuentran” – Elly’s is where Mexico City and New York City meet. 

Their menu is unique and delicious (including a fun variety of cocktails!) and the Mediterranean inspired dishes were some of the best food I had in Mexico City. The restaurant itself is beautifully decorated, very chic and modern, and, overall, it’s a fantastic place to have a meal. If you can, I recommend making reservations in advance. 

Take a Half-Day Trip to Teotihuacan

Located about an hour (30 miles) outside of Mexico City, Teotihuacan is an impressive pre-Hispanic archeology site dating back thousands of years. Interestingly, it is still unknown who the original inhabitants of this impressive city were. It is known, however, that Teotihuacan was one of the largest and most important cities in the Americas during its peak. 

Teotihuacan is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the pyramids, ruins and plazas are incredibly impressive. Among the most notable sites, you’ll find the Pyramid of the Sun, connected to the Pyramid of the Moon via the impressive Avenue of the Dead. 

To visit Teotihuacan you have a couple options : 

The first is to go on your own in an Uber (or on the bus if you’re close to the bus station.) An Uber/DiDi to Teotihuacan should cost around $20-35 USD each way. 

Once you’ve arrived, there will be tons of tour guides who approach you offering their services. Some will offer to show you just around Teotihuacan, and others will offer services to other ruins and local tequila tasting spots. If you don’t want a guided tour, simply walk to the entrance and pay 80 pesos to enter. From there, you can walk around and read the signs to learn about the interesting history of the city.

If you choose to hire a tour guide on site, expect to pay around $50 USD for a 1-2 hour long tour. You will  likely need to negotiate these prices, but with a tour guide you really do learn more about the ancient city and its history. 

One important thing to note is that  the cell service at Teotihuacan isn’t great, so it can be a little difficult to call/meet up with your Uber for the ride back. 

Option 2: Go on a Guided Tour with Transportation  

This option is more expensive, and offers less flexibility, but it is less stressful. There are a plethora of tours to choose from that include different stops and activities. 

Teotihuacan Tour Options:

• Teotihuacan: Private Tour From Mexico City
• Teotihuacan Express Private Tour from Mexico City
• Teotihuacan, Tlatelolco, Guadalupe Shrine and Tequila Tasting Tour
• I wasn’t able to do this on my last trip, but it is item #1 on my list next time I’m in CDMX.  
• This option doesn’t include a guided tour of Teotihuacan, but is instead a view of the archeological site from the hot air balloon. 

Eat Lunch at La Gruta  

If you decide to visit Teotihuacan on your own, or if you have free time on your guided tour, head over to La Gruta (The Cave) for lunch. This unique restaurant is located in a cave just a few minute’s walk from Teootihuacan entrance 5, behind the Pyramid of the Sun.

To enter La Gruta you’ll walk downstairs into a semi-exposed, decorated cave – and it is truly a unique place to dine on pre-Hispanic influenced food. It’s a touristy destination, but one that makes for a very unique experience. 

Note: La Gruta gets very busy, so make reservations ahead of time. 

Enjoy an Early Dinner  

Depending on what time you get back from Teotihuacan, it will likely be time to start getting ready for dinner and Lucha Libre! 

Azul Historico  

Located in the Historic Center of CDMX, Azul Historico is one of the most famous and popular restaurants in the city. Located in the Downtown Hotel, this 17th-Century open air courtyard is a stunning place to dine. They have a large menu with a good selection of vegetarian options. 

Azul Historico books up quickly, so advanced reservations are recommended. 

Plantasia 

Plantasia , located in Roma Norte, is plant-based, but don’t let that deter you, it’s so good! The menu focuses on Asian inspired dishes and everything I tried was so delicious. 

The restaurant itself is beautifully designed in a minimalist, modern style with some sunken tables and tons of greenery. This was one of my favorite meals in Mexico City. 

Watch a Lucha Libre Fight 

Watching a Lucha Libre fight while in Mexico City is such a fun experience! Even if you’re not a fan of professional/performative wrestling, the matches are fun to watch and such a unique experience. 

Lucha Libre fighters (luchadores) wear colorful masks and their wrestling routines are planned and choreographed in advance. As such, there’s almost always a predetermined winner. There are both male and female fighters who perform in matches throughout the evening. 

Lucha Libre fights often tell a story that the announcer shares with the crowd throughout the fights. If you don’t speak Spanish, you won’t fully understand the stories, but you’ll definitely get the gist from watching. Even if you don’t understand the commentators, the fights are still fun to watch. 

In the stadium you can buy drinks, beer and snacks to enjoy while watching the fights.

Lucha Libre isn’t boxing (I was worried about this beforehand), so no one is actually getting hurt. It’s all staged to be a fun performance. 

The matches take place Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays at Arena Mexico at 7:30pm, and tickets start as low as $7 USD. Good(ish) seats will cost anywhere from $10-$15 USD and the best seats will go for $25 or more. 

The fights usually last about 2-3 hours, but I ended up leaving after about 1.5. I’m very happy I went, and had a lot of fun, but that was long enough for me! 

You can book tickets on Ticketmaster , but make sure you’re getting them for Arena Mexico.

NOTE: Lucha Libre fights, at Arena Mexico, are located not far from Roma Norte or el Centro Historico. However, it’s important to note that the fight is held in the Doctores neighborhood, which is regarded as one of CDMX’s most unsafe areas. 

Ubering to/from the match is absolutely safe, especially because it’s such a big tourist attraction, but I wouldn’t recommend walking there – especially if it’s a long distance. 

If you prefer to go with a tour group, there are many options available:

• Lucha Libre Experience and Mezcal Tasting
• Lucha Libre Experience in Mexico City

Check Out a Cute Breakfast Spot 

After breakfast, hop in an Uber or take the 45ish minute walk to Chapultepec Castle and the Anthropology Museum. 

Note: these museums, along with tons of others, are located in the beautiful Bosque de Chapultepec (Chapultepec Forest). Bosque de Chapultepec is a 1,700 acre park area that houses museums, playgrounds, bathrooms, green spaces and lakes. It is beautiful and makes for a great place to spend the day exploring. 

Explore the National History Museum, Chapultepec Castle 

Chapultepec Castle is one of the most beautiful places to visit in Mexico City. The castle was built in 1785 and has served a variety of purposes throughout history, including the Presidential home, a military school, and its current use, the National Museum of History. 

The museum showcases artifacts and art from different eras throughout Mexico’s history. In addition to the interesting exhibits, the castle itself is beautiful inside and out. From its balconies and terraces you have amazing views of downtown Mexico City. Make sure you give yourself at least an hour and half to explore this museum. 

Note: Chapultepec Castle is closed Mondays, and entrance is approximately $4 USD. 

Visit the National Museum of Anthropology 

From Chapultepec Castle, take the 20 minute walk to the National Museum of Anthropology . This is a beautiful walk through a lovely park area where you’ll pass by a variety of museums. On the way you’ll see the Modern Art Museum , the Botanical Gardens , and the Contemporary Art Museum , just to name a few. 

You’ll also pass by stands selling food and drinks if you’d like to pick up a snack before spending a couple hours at the Anthropology Museum. 

This museum is both the largest and most visited in Mexico, and with good reason, it is so well organized and interesting. The museum has 23 exhibits that explore Mexico’s history and ancient civilizations, including popular exhibits about the Mayans and Aztecs. 

There are so many interesting artifacts to see and, in addition, the museum features impressive recreations of anthropological sites. You could easily spend a full day here and not see everything, but  for a first visit I recommend at least two hours. 

Entrance to the National Museum of Anthropology is around $4.50 USD and is open Tuesday-Sunday. You can buy tickets in advance online, or at the door when you arrive. 

Go Shopping in Polanco 

From the Anthropology Museum, take the 15-20 minute walk to Polanco. You can also Uber, but it will almost certainly be just as fast to walk. 

Polanco is an upscale neighborhood known for its shopping. On the main shopping street, Avenida Presidente Masaryk, you’ll find tons of luxury stores and brands. In addition to the designer stores, you’ll also find more affordable options like Zara and The North Face. 

It’s easy to spend a couple hours wandering around Polanco, grabbing a coffee in a cafe, and enjoying the shops. Be sure to also stop by Tane Jewelry Store to check out their “Mexico Mi Amor” wall – it’s a great photo stop. 

Relax and People Watch in Parque Lincoln 

Parque Lincoln is a great place to stop and relax after a few hours of shopping. Here you’ll find tons of dogs, nice shaded areas and a small pond where kids race model boats,

Enjoy a Fancy Dinner  in Polanco

For your last night in Mexico City, Polanco is a great place to be as it’s home to a number of well known restaurants. The  most famous is Pujol , which was named by the Wall Street Journal as the best restaurant in Mexico City – so it’s definitely worth a visit, if you can get a reservation. 

Could I get a reservation when I was in Mexico City? Unfortunately, no. However, this restaurant came recommended by so many of my friends and fellow travelers, that I still wanted to include it in this post. You will likely need to make a reservation at least 6 weeks to 2 months in advance.  

If you can’t get a reservation at Pujol, don’t worry, there’s many other great restaurants in the Polanco area.

Restaurants in Polanco: 

• Comedor Jacinta   

Polanco is known for being an expensive area and many of the restaurants are definitely on the pricey side. However, there are certainly more affordable options as well. 

• El Turix – a hole in the wall taco stand featured in Bon Appetit  
• Cafe Toscano
• La Casa de Toño (a popular chain) 

4 days in Mexico City will fly by! The city is packed full of such fun and unique things to do, see and eat. I hope this CDMX itinerary has been helpful and please let me know if you have any questions. 

Other posts to check out:

• Your Go To Mexico Packing Guide: FREE Printable Packing List for Mexico
• What to Wear in Mexico – Vacation Lookbook and Outfit Inspiration

Things to Know When Visiting Mexico City

• The short answer is yes. Mexico City is safe to visit, but like with any major city you need to be aware of your surroundings and belongings. The major touristy areas are very safe to explore and walk around in, but if you ever feel nervous, Uber instead of walking.
• While more expensive than other areas in Mexico, Mexico City is still extremely affordable. It’s a great place for budget travelers as food, activities, accommodations and transportation are all very affordable.
• I did and it was totally fine. If you’re nervous about the water quality, however, many travelers use bottled water to brush their teeth.
• For a first trip you’ll want at least 4 days. However, Mexico City is huge and full of things to do, so you could easily spend weeks exploring!
• In major stores and restaurants, yes. But always carry pesos for buying street food, souvenirs and for other small purchases.

Note: This guide to 4 days in Mexico includes affiliate links. Read our disclosure  here .

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11 things to know before going to Mexico City

Oct 20, 2023 • 8 min read

From dealing with altitude to tipping well, we share local tips on what you should know before traveling to Mexico City © Tais Policanti / Getty Images

With a population of over 21 million people, Mexico City  is a densely packed metropolis with Indigenous origins dating back to the 1300s, when it was called Tenochtitlan.

This beautiful yet chaotic city is my hometown. After a lifetime spent here, CDMX (as it's often referred to) still surprises me with its sense of community and how locals – known as chilangos –  own and enjoy public spaces such as parks and plazas. People-watching is a thing here, and just going out for the sake of walking around and having a late-night snack is a form of social entertainment.

In recent years, Mexico City has become a sought-after destination for travelers seeking to indulge in Mexico's rich culinary heritage, admire the city's stunning architecture, or stroll around the central and most picturesque neighborhoods such as Roma, Polanco, Juárez and Condesa.

Yet, throughout my years as a travel writer and fixer in Mexico , I still hear questions that reflect particular misconceptions about the city. So, here are some answers to help you plan your trip to Mexico City and feel more confident and at ease before boarding the plane.

1. What should I pack for Mexico City?

Mexico City is privileged in the weather department since it enjoys a consistent temperature averaging the low 20°Cs  most of the year . Summer is considered the rainy season. It will likely rain during the evening from late June until mid-October, either a massive 20-minute downpour or just a sprinkle here and there, but rest assured: it will rain. 

Pack a light, waterproof jacket, but skip the umbrella. If you get caught in the rain, street vendors sell umbrellas for 60 pesos on average. Pack comfortable shoes since you might do lots of walking as you explore the city . Bring a button-down shirt or a summery or casual dress if visiting high-end restaurants. Chilangos tend to be dressier and chic when going out.

2. Some restaurants and museums should be booked months in advance

The Mexico City dining  and bar scene is lively and includes some of the best restaurants in North America, and the world. You should book lunch or dinner reservations in advance if you have Pujol or Quintonil on your list of places to eat. 

If traveling to Mexico City with friends or family, it's also worth booking lunch and dinner reservations in advance because it will be harder for sought-after restaurants and bars to accommodate walk-ins of large parties.

Buy tickets to the Frida Kahlo Museum or the Luis Barragan House with plenty of time, and plan the itinerary of your trip around the reservations that are harder to get.

February to early May and September to December are usually the busiest months to visit Mexico City, so plan around that if you prefer to avoid crowds.

3. How long should I stay?

Plan a four- to five-day trip to have enough time to explore the city's most popular neighborhoods and attractions. If you wish to visit Teotihuacan  – an archaeological site located 39km  northeast of Mexico City  – or Xochimilco's Cuemanco ecological area in the southern part of the city, set aside an entire morning for each activity since it can take around 1.5 hours to reach each destination coming from the central areas of the city.

The National Museum of Archaeology and the Chapultepec Castle deserve at least four or five hours of your time. Allow a full day to walk around  Centro Histórico (Mexico City's downtown area), visiting sites such as  Bellas Artes , the Diego Rivera murals , Catedral Metropolitana  and Templo Mayor .

Give yourself some time to experience Mexico City's pace of life. It can be hectic but quiet enough to enjoy a coffee or a cocktail and unwind.

4. How much should I tip and when?

Mexico City is a predominantly working-class city, and there is a lot of economic disparity in the service and hospitality industry. Consider a 15% tip as the standard and even 20% based on the full tab at restaurants, bars and coffee shops or the amount paid for booking experiences and services. 

Service staff at restaurants and bars will ask if you wish to add a tip before swiping your card. On the other hand, if you decide to take a tour or hire a city guide, tip with cash, preferably in pesos. 

Tipping an Uber driver is not common, but if you hire a personal chauffeur throughout your trip, tipping will be expected. If you visit a supermarket and someone assists you in packing your groceries, tip 10 to 15 pesos.

5. Mexico City is not cheap

Several international travelers and remote workers have been called out on social media for posting: "Mexico City is so cheap!". If you earn USD, Euros or GBP, you will find that your income or travel budget goes further in Mexico City than, for example, New York, San Francisco, or London. 

However, Mexico City is not cheap for Mexicans, and the cost of living has risen considerably for locals in the last five years, especially in housing costs due to short-term rentals and Airbnb. Chilangos are generally welcoming and hospitable, but comments from tourists about the lower relative costs in the city are unlikely to be appreciated.

6. Mexican street food is delicious, but not very accommodating

Unfortunately, strict veganism or vegetarianism, gluten intolerance, severe allergies or other religious or cultural-related food restrictions will be hard to accommodate in most places, especially when visiting street food stands. 

Taco stands or quesadilla vendors might cook vegetarian dishes with lard or near animal proteins; some mole and salsas could have peanuts or other nuts. Most local markets have sections where traditional butchery is on full display. If you're a meat-eater, be open to the idea and exercise a degree of flexibility. You might end up trying delicious Mexican food.

When visiting a taco stand, locals might warn you about the spiciness of the salsas, and it might be a bit more spicy than what you are used to. In Spanish, picante means spicy. 

Mexican eateries –  fondas  – cook mostly from scratch and always have a vegetarian dish on the daily menu. Corn tortillas are everywhere in Mexico City, so you will be good to go if your restriction is gluten.

Nowadays, most restaurants are mindful of food restrictions and allergies and might make suggestions based on their current menu. But expect them to keep a dish the same, accommodating your request in the best way possible.

7. How safe is the water?

A good rule of thumb is that you can brush your teeth, but do not swallow any water. Depending on the city borough, the quality and sanitation of the tap water might change. 

Consequently, Mexico City residents drink only filtered or bottled water. Since 2014, Mexico City restaurants have been required by local authorities to serve filtered water to consumers at no extra cost.

Any ice used to prepare drinks, aguas frescas (fruity beverages) and cocktails is made with filtered water. Coffee shops and juice stands prepare beverages with filtered water as well. 

8. What about crime? Is Mexico City safe?

The answer to this question really depends on where you are coming from. Strolling around central neighborhoods like Roma, Polanco, Coyoacán or Condesa is way safer than walking, for example, in certain areas of cities such as San Francisco, Philadelphia, Phoenix, LA, Washington DC or Chicago. In recent years, Mexico City's government has increased security patrols in most areas, and overall, the city is safe. 

As in any major city, be aware of your surroundings and always be mindful of your belongings. Watch out for petty crime and pickpocketing in tourist areas. If you end up in a crowded place like a soccer stadium, a concert or a music festival, keep your valuables close to you. Leave any flashy jewelry or watches at the hotel.

If taking public transportation like the Metro (as the subway system is called) or buses, be aware of pickpockets. Stay away from regular taxis and opt for Uber instead.

There are, for sure, neighborhoods in Mexico City where even residents advise caution, so always refer to local intel if you are planning to explore the outer areas of the city. If an area feels edgy and unsafe, staying away is best.

9. Don't drink alcohol in the streets and avoid weed

Drinking in the streets of Mexico City is illegal. Mexico City is not Tulum , Cancún or Los Cabos. If you get caught by the police drinking alcohol in the streets, you may face a fine or jail time. 

In 2009, the Mexican government adopted legislation to decriminalize the possession of small amounts of drugs  for personal and immediate use. However, it's best to avoid consuming any type of drugs in Mexico to avoid the legal gray matter. 

10. Stay hydrated to help with the altitude

Mexico City sits in a valley in the high Mexican central plateau with an elevation of 2240m. You might notice you are more tired than usual after a day or two of arrival. Drink enough water and stay hydrated at all times. You might also experience that alcohol hits you faster here, and it is all because of the high elevation. 

Luckily, you can find bottles of electrolytes in every OXXO or 7-11 store. Locals call them electrolitos , and once you recognize the bottles, you will catch them everywhere. Electrolitos come in different flavors: coco, lime, strawberry etc, and are great for curing a hangover. 

11. There’s a chance of earthquakes 

Mexico City experiences earthquakes occasionally, and the city and its residents are prepared to handle the situation. Mexico has a sophisticated seismic alarm system that gives up to a 60-second warning before an earthquake hits the city. 

If you hear the alarm, stay calm, don't run, and follow the locals' lead to a safe place to see the earthquake through. Hotels, restaurants, government buildings, apartment buildings, offices and schools follow a safety protocol. 

Mexico City schedules earthquake drills once a year to reinforce first responders' safety measures and allow residents to practice earthquake safety protocols. If you happen to be in Mexico City during an earthquake, staying calm is the most crucial step to staying safe.

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Mexico City Travel Guide

Last Updated: September 2, 2023

Founded in the early 14th century by the Aztecs, Mexico City is one of the oldest capital cities in the Americas. Today, it is one of the most fascinating cultural destinations in the world, with eclectic art galleries, animated food markets, bustling nightlife, and grandiose historic buildings on tree-lined streets.

I was late to visit Mexico City, but once I spent time here I fell in love. The museum, parks, and food scene make this a world-class city in my view. It’s also super affordable and has a growing expat/digital nomad scene so it’s easy to visit long-term and make connections.

This travel guide to Mexico City can help you make the most out of your trip, save money, help you stay safe, and ensure you have an amazing visit!

Table of Contents

• Things to See and Do
• Typical Costs
• Suggested Budget
• Money-Saving Tips
• Where to Stay
• How to Get Around
• How to Stay Safe
• Best Places to Book Your Trip
• Related Blogs on Mexico City

Top 5 Things to See and Do in Mexico City

1. Walk through the Zócalo

Encompassing the Templo Mayor, Palacio Nacional, and Plaza de la Constitución, the Zócalo is the heart of Mexico City’s Historic Center. Originally the site of an Aztec Temple, the Templo Mayor was destroyed to make room for a new Spanish cathedral in 1521. Rediscovered in the 1970s, you can now view ancient artifacts uncovered from the site alongside the stunning Spanish colonial architecture of La Catedral Metropolitana. Exploring the Zócalo area is the perfect introduction to Mexico City’s rich culture and history. Start your visit here.

2. Relax in Chapultepec Park

Spanning 1,695 acres in the heart of Mexico City, here you’ll find a zoo, La Feria amusement park, and nine unique museums. Chapultepec Park is one of the world’s most visited urban parks, and you can spend days strolling around forest paths and relaxing by the water. Here you’ll find the Museum of Anthropology, which houses a vast collection of sculptures, jewels, and artifacts from ancient Mexican civilizations (admission is 70 MXN). You can also rent a rowboat or paddle boat and go out on Chapultepec Lake for 60 MXN. And history buffs will love a visit to Chapultepec Castle, the former home of Emperor Maximilian I and Empress Carlota. It was built on a sacred Aztec site. Admission costs 80 MXN and is free on Sundays.

3. Participate in Day of the Dead

Every November, on the 1st and 2nd of the month, the entire country joins in a mass celebration of the dead. Everywhere you go, there are decorated sugar skulls, candy treats, and baked goods known as Pan de Muerto . The festival is a vibrant and lively affair with celebrations for those who are gone but not forgotten, including parades of elaborate and colorful costumes. It’s a must-do and an incredibly vibrant cultural experience you will never forget. All you have to do is show up!

Frida Kahlo and her husband Diego Rivera are two of the biggest names in Mexican art. Frida was particularly famous for her portraits and self-portraits. A tour of their old home (the “Casa Azul”) is a worthwhile experience to see where and how she lived, as well as some of her original artwork. Caza Azul also hosts a variety of artistic workshops monthly, so check out the schedule if you’re interested in learning a new skill during your Mexico City trip. Tickets are 250 MXN. Buy tickets in advance because tickets are high in demand.

5. Check out the art and history museums

There are tons of museums and galleries in Mexico City, perfect for art enthusiasts and history buffs alike. Worthwhile museums include the Museum of Anthropology, the National History Museum, the Modern Art Museum, the National Art Museum, and the Museo do Arte Populare (folk art museum). Mexico City can compete with any other culturally rich city so be sure to spend some time admiring these massive collections. Tickets start at 70 MXN.

Other Things to See and Do in Mexico City

1. visit castillo de chapultepec.

The only castle in North America to house sovereigns, Chapultepec Castle was built in 1725 as a large manor house for the Viceroy (the colonial administrator from Spain). Abandoned during the Mexican War of Independence in 1810, Chapultepec later became the residence of Emperor Maximilian I and Empress Carlota in 1864 during the Second Mexican Empire (1864–1867). Today, Chapultepec Castle is home to Museo Nacional de Historia, which tells the story of Mexico from the time of Tenochtitlan to the Mexican Revolution. It costs 85 MXN.

2. Explore Templo Mayor

Mexico City is a hotbed of historical landmarks, particularly those dating back to the Aztec period, and there is no finer example than the Great Temple of Tenochtitlan. Located in the heart of the Historic Centre of Mexico City and Xochimilco, Templo Mayor is an example of life in Mesoamerica before the arrival of the Spanish in 1519. The Aztecs believed the area to be the literal center of the universe, and it was here where they sighted the eagle perched on a cactus with a snake in its beak — the symbol of Mexico today. Admission is 85 MXN and includes entrance to the museum and the archeological site.

3. Feast in the Zona Rosa

One of the most popular neighborhoods in Mexico City, Zona Rosa is historically known for being the heart of the city’s gay community and boasts an array of bars, restaurants, and nightclubs. This is the best nightlife area in the city. Make sure to dress well here too. Try places like Cafeteríra El Péndulo, Xaman Bar, and Cabaretito Fusión. If you have a taste for Korean barbeque (Zona Rosa has a huge Korean community!), head to BiWon.

4. Visit the Museo Nacional de Antropología

Found within Chapultepec Park, this world-class anthropology museum is the largest museum in Mexico, at 45,000 square meters (it’s also the most-visited museum in the country). Open since 1964, the museum houses a vast collection of sculptures, jewels, and artifacts from ancient Mexican civilizations. There’s an exhibition on the culture of Native Americans in Mexico as well as numerous rotating temporary exhibitions (often on other great cultures from around the world, such as Iran, China, and Greece). Admission is 85 MXN.

5. Tour a megalibrary

Situated among gardens, the Biblioteca Vasconcelos is a temple to books, often referred to as a “megalibrary”. Opening its doors in 2006, the library features transparent walls and intentionally mismatched floors, six floors, and houses over 600,000 books! The library also offers cultural activities like concerts, plays, and dance performances, and there’s also a 26,000-square-meter garden filled with trees, shrubs, and herbaceous plants. Admission is free. Check the website to see what events are happening during your visit.

6. Check out the Basilica de Guadalupe

The Basilica de Guadalupe is a Catholic church, basilica, and world-famous shrine, drawing thousands of pilgrims every year from all over Mexico. The yearly celebration of the shrine is on December 12th, which makes this a crazy, festival-like place to be during that time. Take time to explore the grounds, as well as the basilica and shrine. The old basilica was constructed from 1695-1709, built on the spot where the Virgin of Guadalupe had first appeared to the peasant-turned-saint Juan Diego in 1531. The old basilica began to sink in its foundation, and a new basilica was constructed from 1974-1976. Just make sure to dress respectfully during your visit as it is a place of worship.

7. Marvel at the Soumaya Museum

Housing 66,000 pieces of Central American and European art, the Soumaya Museum displays works not only by Mexican artists like Diego Rivera and Rufino Tamayo, but also by famous masters like Botticelli, Dalí, and Rodin, to name a few. The museum was donated and constructed by one of the world’s richest men, Carlos Slim Helú (a Mexican business magnate). In Northern Mexico City, the Soumaya Museum is a stunning building covered with 16,000 aluminum hexagonal tiles, which sparkle in the sunlight. It’s considered to be the most beautiful modern building in Mexico City. Admission is free.

8. Attend a lucha libre

Mexican free wrestling is a favorite pastime among locals. Extremely entertaining and affordable, Lucha libre takes wrestling to a whole new level, and the cheers and heckles from the crowd add to the fun. Grab a beer or a shot of tequila, and get ready to holler some Spanish jeers – and whatever you do, do not look away during a match as anything can, and will, happen. General seating tickets can be as little as 56 MXN each. Don’t go with a tour or book ahead of time as you’ll pay a lot more. Do not buy from scalpers either, because the police are always around and you’ll get in trouble. Look for a tequila (ticket booth) sign to be sure that you are paying the right price. Do not bring your camera, as you will be forced to check it at the door.

9. Visit the UNAM Botanical Garden

If you need to escape the hustle and bustle of Mexico City for a little while, The Botanical Garden at the National Autonomous University of Mexico is the perfect place. Keeping with the Aztec traditions of having gardens for both medicinal and ornamental purposes, there is also an added focus on conservation and environmental education. Built on top of and around lava formations from the eruption of the volcano Xitle, visitors can explore the naturally formed grottoes, ponds and waterfalls. This garden has the most diverse cactus collection in the world (800 different kinds!), ponds full of koi and turtles, an orchidarium, and a medicinal garden.

This green space is not only a haven for people but the local wildlife as well. Keep an eye out for woodpeckers, owls, hummingbirds, rattlesnakes, lizards, and the Pedregal tarantula, which is a species only found in this small area of Mexico City. Admission is free.

10. Have some tacos at Taqueria los Cocuyos

There are tons of taquerias (taco stands) around Mexico City, but this 50-year-old establishment in the Historic Center has a vast array of meats to choose from. They have standard fillings like carnitas or chorizo, but why not try a tripe, brains (they have a creamy consistency), or tongue (this melts in your mouth like pot roast) taco? Anthony Bourdain absolutely loved this taqueria so need I say more?

  For information on other cities in Mexico, check out these guides:

• Cancun Travel Guide
• Oaxaca Travel Guide

Mexico City Travel Costs

Hostel prices – During peak season, the price per bed in a 4-6-bed dorm starts at 300 MXN per night, whereas a private room for two ranges from 600-1,900 MXN per night. In the shoulder season, those prices drop to 225 MXN and 850 MXN respectively. Free Wi-Fi is standard and many hostels also include free breakfast.

Budget hotel prices – Budget two-star rooms in Mexico City start around 300 MXN, while a three-star hotel ranges from 500-900 MXN. Expect basic amenities like free Wi-Fi, TV, AC, and occasionally free breakfast.

Airbnb is also an option in Mexico City, with private rooms starting at 220 MXN per night (though most are around 600 MXN). Entire homes and apartments start at 700 MXN and go up from there. Book early to find the best deals.

Food – Typical Mexican dishes include tacos, mole (a sauce with lots of ingredients, often including chocolate), salsa, enchiladas, tamales (stuffed corn pockets), pozole (hominy stew topped with onion, avocado, and chili) guacamole.

Street stalls and markets are the best way to go for authentic and inexpensive food. Tacos, quesadilla, sopas, tortas, and other street foods are generally 15-45 MXN. Sometimes, you’ll find tacos for as cheap as 10 MXN.

A cheap meal at a restaurant costs around 150 MXN. Look for the ones filled with locals as that is generally a sign that the food is really good. If you want to splash out, a three-course meal costs around 325 MXN.

Fast food (think McDonald’s) costs around 130 MXN for a combo meal. Pizza starts at 400 MXN while Chinese food costs around 200 MXN for a main dish.

Beer is 50-80 MXN while a latte/cappuccino is 55 MXN.

Tap water is not safe to drink in Mexico. Bring a portable water purifier or use bottled water ( LifeStraw makes a good one.)

If you plan to cook your meals, expect to pay between 500-585 MXN per week for groceries that will include rice, vegetables, chicken, tortillas, and beans. However, with street food so cheap and most hostels and hotels without kitchens, it’s best to simply eat local rather than cook.

Backpacking Mexico City Suggested Budgets

If you’re backpacking Mexico City, expect to spend 1,050 MXN per day. This budget gets you a hostel dorm, street food and self-cooked meals, public transportation, and a few attractions (such as museums and galleries) each day. If you plan on eating out more or drinking, you’ll need to add another 100 MXN per day.

On a mid-range budget of about 1,900 MXN per day, you can stay in a private hostel room or Airbnb, eat out at restaurants serving cheap traditional cuisine for every meal, visit more attractions, enjoy a few drinks, and take the occasional taxi to get around.

On a “luxury” budget of 3,800 MXN or more per day, you can stay at a hotel, eat out for all your meals, have plenty of drinks, take taxis everywhere, and do some guided trips and tours. This is just the ground floor for luxury though. The sky is the limit!

You can use the chart below to get some idea of how much you need to budget daily, depending on your travel style. Keep in mind these are daily averages — some days you’ll spend more, some days you’ll spend less (you might spend less every day). We just want to give you a general idea of how to make your budget. Prices are in MXN.

Mexico City Travel Guide: Money-Saving Tips

Mexico City is a really affordable city to visit. While prices have risen in the last couple of years, there’s tons of affordable street food and accommodation. Plus, lots of free activities to help keep your costs down. To help keep your budget intact, here are some ways to save in Mexico City:

• Eat street food – Save money on food by eating at the big markets or from the vendors on the street. You’ll get big, flavorful, and filling meals for only a few dollars. If you’re wary, just eat wherever you see children eating. If kids can eat that food, you’ll be fine!
• Stay with a local – Use Couchsurfing to stay with locals who have extra beds and couches for free. Not only will this lower your accommodation costs but you’ll get to connect with a local insider who can share their tips and advice.
• Go on a free walking tour – Learn the history behind the places you are seeing and to avoid missing any must-see stops in Mexico City. Estacion Mexico Free Tours has a historic downtown tour that can show you what the city has to offer. Just remember to tip your guide at the end!
• Save money on rideshares – Uber is cheaper than taxis and is the best way to get around a city if you don’t want to wait for a bus or pay for a taxi.
• Drink less – Alcohol is cheap in Mexico City, but it’s definitely more expensive at bars and clubs. Try to buy your alcohol from a local store instead of drinking at the bar if you’re on a budget.
• Take public transit – Public transportation is the most affordable way to get around. You can purchase a rechargeable Smartcard at any of the metro stations and you can use the card for the metro and metro buses.
• Being a water filter – Since the tap water here isn’t safe to drink and single-use plastic is bad for the environment, bring a water bottle with a built-in filter. LifeStraw is my go-to choice as it ensures your water is always clean and safe.

Where to Stay in Mexico City

Mexico City has a bunch of affordable hostels that are fun and safe. Here are some of recommended places to stay:

• Suites DF Hostel
• Mexico City Hostel
• Massiosare El Hostel
• Hostel Home

How to Get Around Mexico City

Public transportation – Mexico City is very large and the best way to get around is the subway (metro) system. It’s usually busy and crowded but it’s efficient. You can buy a rechargeable smart card at any of the Metro stations for 16 MXN (this includes the first 5 MXN ticket), and you can use the card for the metro and metro buses. A public city bus costs 6 MXN. You also can ride a Microbus (or a pesero as it’s commonly known), which are privately-run. A ticket for these costs 2.50-4 MXN.

Alternatively, Turibus is a touristy hop-on hop-off bus with four routes in Mexico City. These buses can be a good way to get your bearings and discover areas of the city you may want to explore further. A 1-day ticket is 160 MXN on weekdays and 180 MXN on the weekends.

Bicycle – For bike rentals, check out EcoBici, a bike-sharing program. It offers the first 45 minutes free. After that, your first hour is 25 MXN and each hour after is an additional 50 MXN. A full day is 118 MXN. After you’re done riding, you can return the bike to any kiosk with an open dock (indicated by a green light).

Taxis – Taxi fares start from around 25 MXN and then each kilometer is an additional 16 MXN. Don’t hail a taxi which is passing on the street. Instead, take one from outside a hotel or restaurant as these are authorized taxis and safer to use.

Ride-sharing – Uber, an alternative to taxis, operates in Mexico City and is generally cheaper than taxis.

When to Go to Mexico City

Summer (June to October) is the rainy season in Mexico, but mostly in the center of the country. You can expect it to rain each day heavily, but the downpour is usually short. It hardly ever rains in the northern part of the country, and humidity is thick in the south and along the coastal areas. Temperatures during this time are somewhere between 26-32°C (79-90°F).

April to June are typically the hottest months with temperatures averaging a high of 27°C (80°F). This is also one of the busiest times of year so be sure to book early.

Semana Santa is one of the biggest holidays in Mexico, next to Christmas and Day of the Dead. It takes place the week before Easter, when a re-enactment of the crucifixion takes place. Día de la Independencia takes place September 16th, but the celebrations begin the night before in Mexico City’s Zócalo, complete with fireworks. This is Mexico’s independence day, not Cinco de Mayo which is a celebration of the battle of Puebla which takes place in the state of Puebla, to the south of Mexico City.

In November, the streets and cemeteries of Mexico come alive as locals celebrate Día de Muertos (Day of the Dead), a time when locals hold all-night vigils and commune with loved ones who have died. It’s also a time of parties and parades and sugar skulls. An unforgettable experience, especially in Mexico City. If you want to visit for the festival, book well in advance. The city books up fast and accommodation prices rise.

How to Stay Safe in Mexico City

The media (especially the American media) likes to paint Mexico City as a dangerous place to visit, but the reality is that a lot of Mexico City is completely safe. While petty theft (including bag snatching) is common here, most of the serious conflict is between the authorities and Mexican drug cartels, which will have little impact on your trip.

Stay away from neighborhoods like Tepito and Iztapalapa, and be aware of your surroundings in large crowded markets where it is easy to be targeted by pickpockets. Do your best to blend in and always keep your valuables secure and out of reach.

The people who tend to get in trouble are often involved in doing drugs or taking part in sex tourism. Stay away from that stuff for many reasons.

Locals are friendly and helpful. If you’re not sure about a neighborhood, ask a local. They can tell you whether or not it is a good idea to go there.

A local once described the city as a night city, which meant that, since there are lots of people out at night, there are eyes everywhere which helps reduce the likelihood of crime. I’ve never felt unsafe walking alone, especially when I’m in areas like Condesa, Roma Norte, or Jaurez, which are the areas you are likely to be in as a tourist.

Solo female travelers should generally feel safe here, though I would take extra caution at night. The standard safety precautions apply (never walk home alone intoxicated, never leave your drink unattended at the bar, etc.). Be sure to read one of the many solo female travel blogs for specific tips.

Keep an eye out for common scams against tourists , such as fake ATMs, taxis that don’t use a meter, and questionable tour operators.

If you need emergency services, dial 911.

While Mexico’s water purification and treatment systems have improved, it’s still not safe to drink tap water when visiting. Use a LifeStraw to avoid single-use plastic and ensure your water is safe. It has a built-in filter to purify your water.

Always trust your gut instinct. Avoid isolated areas at night, and be aware of your surroundings at all times. Make copies of your personal documents, including your passport and ID.

The most important piece of advice I can offer is to purchase good travel insurance. Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it as I’ve had to use it many times in the past.

Mexico City Travel Guide: The Best Booking Resources

These are my favorite companies to use when I travel. They consistently have the best deals, offer world-class customer service and great value, and overall, are better than their competitors. They are the companies I use the most and are always the starting point in my search for travel deals.

• Skyscanner – Skyscanner is my favorite flight search engine. They search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites tend to miss. They are hands down the number one place to start.
• Hostelworld – This is the best hostel accommodation site out there with the largest inventory, best search interface, and widest availability.
• Booking.com – The best all around booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation. In all my tests, they’ve always had the cheapest rates out of all the booking websites.
• Get Your Guide – Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions. They have tons of tour options available in cities all around the world, including everything from cooking classes, walking tours, street art lessons, and more!
• SafetyWing – Safety Wing offers convenient and affordable plans tailored to digital nomads and long-term travelers. They have cheap monthly plans, great customer service, and an easy-to-use claims process that makes it perfect for those on the road.
• LifeStraw – My go-to company for reusable water bottles with built-in filters so you can ensure your drinking water is always clean and safe.
• Unbound Merino – They make lightweight, durable, easy-to-clean travel clothing.
• Top Travel Credit Cards – Points are the best way to cut down travel expenses. Here’s my favorite point earning credit cards so you can get free travel!

Mexico City Travel Guide: Related Articles

Want more info? Check out all the articles I’ve written on backpacking/traveling Mexico City and continue planning your trip:

The 20 Best Things to Do in Mexico City

The 5 Best Hotels in Oaxaca

Where to Stay in Oaxaca: The Best Neighborhoods for Your Visit

How to Spend 5 Days in Oaxaca

The 15 Best Things to Do in Oaxaca

Is Tulum Safe?

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Home > Mexico > Mexico City Travel Tips

Mexico City Travel Tips: 20 Dos and Don'ts No One Tells You

Make Mexico City Your Even Favorite-er City

These travel tips are part of our local, loco, (not) low-cal Mexico City blog , which includes our city guide , favorite local food , why bike , and report on pulque .

Mexico City is our favorite city to visit over and over again. And even though we think we know the city pretty well by now, every time we go we learn a few things that make it our even favorite-er city. These things we've learned are the Mexico City travel tips we're sharing below.

If you haven’t been before, these tips will probably make Mexico City your favorite city too. And if this ain’t your first rodeo a) You obviously have great taste in travel destinations, and b) Prepare to make your tastes even tastier.

Either way, these Mexico City travel tips will upgrade your perception of the DF CDMX.

Tips for your Trip

These Mexico City travel tips are split into four sections. Jump to directly to any one by clicking these shortcut links:

• Upon Arrival
• While in Mexico City
• Things Not to Do
• Before Leaving

As Soon As You Arrive in Mexico City

✓  get a cell phone sim.

You're going to need data in Mexico City to use Uber and the EcoBici shared bikes ( see below ), so get a SIM card immediately upon arriving. Dealing with a cell phone company is far from the most pleasant way to start your trip, but it'll make your trip more pleasant.

You can get a local SIM in the airport at the Telcel office in Terminal 1 or at an Oxxo or 7-11. They'll help you set it up. Here's what you need to get started:

• A SIM card. This shouldn't cost more than 150 pesos. It should come with  and it should come with some "welcome credit."
• A basic Amigo Sin Limite plan. Get the 50 peso one, which entitles you to 7 days of unlimited calling and messages to Mexico, USA, and Canada and 300 MB of data. This likely will be included with the cost of your SIM card.
• An Internet Amigos plan for extra data. It costs 150 pesos for 1 GB.

Tip:   By default, Telcel sets up your account so that if you add credit ( una recarga in Spanish) it will automatically be used to buy the most expensive Amigos Sin Limite plan possible. To have more control over what you buy when you do a recarga, ask that they change your account accordingly.

More Tips: Read this more detailed guide to SIM cards in Mexico  if you're still in doubt.

T-Mobile User?: Eric comments below that your phone will work just the same as in the US (and France, Germany, Japan, and other countries), for no extra charge.

✓  Withdraw as many pesos as possible

In the interest of reducing the number of ATM trips you need to make and foreign withdrawal fees, take out as much cash as you can all at once. You're going to need it. Cash is still king in Mexico City and it will remain that way until business owners can no longer dodge taxes by taking it as payment.

Don't worry about withdrawing more than you need. As you'll soon discover in our final Mexico City travel tip below, you can actually make money off any pesos you haven't spent by the end of your trip!

Bank of America client?: Eric comments that you can make withdrawals from Scotiabank ATMs free of charge and with the prime rate so long as you refuse the insurance and say No to the proposed exchange rate at the last step of your withdrawal.

✓  Buy a plug-in mosquito repelling device

One of the few things that suck about Mexico City is the mosquitos. There aren't swarms like in the Amazon or Northern Canada, but they still have a remarkable ability to ruin your sleep.

Nothing 60 pesos ($3 USD) can't fix, though.

At the nearest convenience store or supermarket, pick up a little white plug-in device that uses blue tabs, put in a socket near your bed every night, and enjoy a blissful sleep.

We swear by the things. Our last two times in Mexico City, we "donated blood" for a couple nights, got fed up, got a mosquito repelling thing, and slept blissfully from then on.

Note: The things don't seem to exist on Amazon. We looked. Just get one when you arrive.

✓  Sign up for EcoBici

Despite the popular belief that Mexican traffic is as loco as swallowing a habanero whole, Mexico City is actually a surprisingly bike-friendly city. Side roads are mostly empty, the roads are flat, and drivers are more likely to honk one of those custom Mexican sexy whistle horns at you than an angry one.

If you're comfortable biking, sign up for EcoBici, Mexico City's bike share program, as soon as possible.

To give you an idea of how handy it is, in our most recent week in town we did over 40 rides covering 150 km.

For everything you need to know to spice up your Mexico City trip with EcoBici, including its pros and cons, how to use it, where to use it, and whether it's safe for you or not, don't miss our guide .

Warning: As Marcia learned the hard way and warns in the comments, don't sign up for EcoBici until you are ready to use it, because your account automatically initiates upon payment.

Related: How to Experience More of CDMX, Faster, by Using EcoBici

Travel Tips for a Better Time in Mexico City

✓  ask for samples at restaurants.

If you're unsure of which sauce, mole, or pulque flavor to order at a restaurant, ask for samples. Just about every restaurant and bar will be happy to oblige. That way you'll make the right choice every time and experience more flavors. Plus it's free.

✓  Get on the rooftops

The Google search results for "Best rooftop bar in Mexico City" suck. The places that show up in the results are higher-end than they are high up, often covered, and have no views.

We know because we went up to each of them and generally came back down quickly and unimpressed.

But we found a few worth climbing the stairs up to (…or pushing the button in the elevator).

Mexico City Rooftop Bars:

• Terraza Catedral , has 35 peso draft beers and views of the Zocalo. It's better than El Mayor's rooftop bar and restaurant three blocks down the way. On weekdays it's "open at 1 p.m." (not really; see tip below) to the public. On weekends it opens at 6 p.m. and there's a cover fee.
• El Balcon del Zocalo's name is self-explanatory. It's ideal for a fancier welcome or goodbye dinner.
• Pulqueria Insurgentes doesn't have a view, but its got a refreshingly airy and unpretentious rooftop. On Sundays, their pulque is buy-one-get-one-free, and on Mondays all alcoholic drinks are half-priced.

Save these bars' locations and those of 19 more of our favorite restaurants, cafés, and street food right to your phone's Google Maps by getting our free Mexico City treasures map, below .

✓  Burn off those buns (and tortillas)

Without a doubt, the best part about Mexico City is the food. The more food you eat, the better your trip will be. So how do you eat as much as humanly possible?

Working up an appetite with exercise.

Here are some fun (and mostly free) places to get your non-habanero-induced sweat on:

• Hapi Fitness (first class 100 pesos): You'll be thinking "help-me" not "hapi" while doing a Hapi Fitness class, but we guarantee you'll be happy afterward. What's more, you'll emerge from the studio and find yourself right inside Dosis Cafe, where you can immediately reward yourself with a tasty pastry.
• Park 54   (1st class free): Quick, dirty, and sweaty, Park 54's group circuit workouts will get you pumped and pump you up for a big day.
• Gandhi Circuit in Chapultapec Park  (Public, see Google Maps ): This 1-km loop through the trees with a small workout area in the middle is a good spot for a breath huff-and-puff of fresh air.
• Outdoor calisthenic parks  (Public): You can find chin-up bars and other apparatus for doing bodyweight workouts right beside Insurgentes metro station, in Parque Espana, in front of Qi Fitness in Condesa, and in the Centro.

Related: 9 Fun & Fast Tricks We Use to Stay Fit While Traveling

✓  Venture into a pulqueria

Pulque is kombucha with attitude. It's a gut-friendly fermented drink with 3-to-8-percent alcohol that you can only find within a day's drive Mexico's high plains.

It's not necessarily taste-bud friendly, though. Raw pulque is an acquired taste whose appeal is hurt by the fact that people too often compare its texture to that of semen. But if you give it a chance, get a curado that's blended with fruits, and compare it to yogurt-mixed-with-beer instead of sperm, there's a good chance you'll enjoy it.

Even if you can't swallow the stuff, pulquerias are worth venturing into for their dive-y, old school atmosphere and for the chance to meet the curious characters who you'll be drinking beside.

As for which pulqueria to go to, as a general rule of thumb the farther the pulqueria is from tourist attractions, the better.

If you're interested in trying this "kombucha on steroids," make sure to check our guide to its up-and-down-and-up-again history, amazing nutritional benefits, and where to get it in Mexico City.

✓  At least stay in the Condesa / Roma Norte area

As we explain in the neighborhood overview of our Mexico City first-timers' guide , it's the ideal area to base your stay. It's central, safe, cosmopolitan, and has tons of places for eating, shopping, exercising, and eating some more.

Condesa / Roma Norte has plenty of boutique hotels and hostels. If we were rich or it were our honeymoon, we'd stay at the Nima Local House or La Valise .

Related: Quick and Dirty Mexico City First-Timers' Guide

✓  Read these other blogs' Mexico City travel tips

Here are a couple other posts with not-obvious, original, and actually helpful Mexico City travel tips:

• What not to Do in Mexico City: Advice from a Local , by Northern Lauren
• 17 Things to Know Before You Go to Mexico City , by Explore Parts Unknown

✓  Try these tips and tricks to change the way you travel

You're sure to find at least one idea that will change the way you travel in our list of our best travel tips and tricks . It has everything from advanced, experimental travel tips and tricks to practical but oft-overlooked ones to dumb advice we hear others give too often (and what to do instead).

What NOT to Do in Mexico City

✗  Don't be a wuss

Worried that your ice cubes might be made from tap water?

Suck it up and suck down your drink anyways.

Wondering where that food's been and how long it's been sitting out?

Tell your selfish yuppy gut bacteria they need to make some Mexican friends. It's good for all of you.

Concerned that you'll stick out like a sore thumb in a poorer neighborhood?

Hate to break it to you, but the people in those neighborhoods are too preoccupied with more important things to care about your presence.

Get over yourself and don't be a wuss.

✗  Don't look like a tourist

Even if you're a big, light-haired, fair-skinned guy like Chris you  should at least try to look like a local resident instead of a tourist.

That means no flip-flops under any circumstances, and no shorts unless it's blisteringly hot outside.

Otherwise, it's so obvious you're a tourist that you may as well wear your national flag as a cape, paint your face in the same colors, and fan yourself with 500 peso bills.

✗  Don't pay for water

You know how full-serve gas station attendants try to upsell you on premium gas and you have to say, "No, just regular, please"? Well that's how it is with water at restaurants in Mexico City.

When you ask for water your waiter will default to bringing you an expensive bottle. But if you ask the right way, they'll begrudgingly give you a glass of filtered water for free.

Ask for " agua del filtro ." Most likely, the server will pretend not to understand at first, so insist. Say, " Un vaso de agua del garrafon " (a glass from the jug). Repeat if necessary.

The waiter will eventually relent and bring you your water, saving you some pesos and saving the environment from another empty bottle.

✗  Don't wait in super long in lines

Here's a hot travel take: Anything you need to wait around in line with other tourists for is not worth doing.

For example, unless you're such a Frida fan that you've grown a unibrow in her honor, it's not worth it (unless you buy in advance, as per the tip below). Also, instead of waiting to blow your pesos with other hip gringos at Hotel Condesa's bar, get some pulque at Pulqueria Insurgentes. And rather than wait forever for a pastry from Rosetta go up the street to the much more spacious Cafe NIN, which has the exact same treats minus the line.

But when it comes to less-touristy attractions, don't be scared off by rumors of lineups. Three of our favorite food spots —Fonda Margarita, Esquina Chilaquil, and Tacos Don Juan—were said to have hour-plus long lines, but in all three cases we waited no more than twenty minutes. We suspect the locals exaggerate to keep annoying tourists away.

Tip: Save yourself a couple of hours waiting to get into the Frida museum by buying tickets in advance on this site or doing a tour, like this this highly-rated Airbnb experience , that includes VIP skip-the-line entry. (Thanks to Nina for this tip. She also recommends paying extra for a guide or audio tour, which she regrets not doing.)

✗  Don't go anywhere when it's close to its opening or closing hours

Based on our experience, opening and closing hours are suggestions in Mexico City, not reality.

Inevitably, the person running the shop, restaurant, or bar will have an excuse to open later than advertised and close earlier.

Being naive to this reality (perhaps due to Chris' always-on-time Swiss ancestry) and slow learners, we went but had to come back another time to four different places during our trip: Helado Obscuro, Terraza Catedral, Minichelista, and Pulqueria La Nuclear.

✗  Don't trust strangers who approach you in perfect English

We were minding our own business eating some Dorilokos near the Anthropology Museum when a frazzled-looking white guy approached. In perfect English, he rambled on about how he was robbed in a taxi and was desperate to catch his flight. He asked for twenty to thirty dollars for a taxi, saying he would repay us later via PayPal.

We asked him to screw off. There was a fluent-English speaking tourist booth beside us whose job it is to help out people like him, so he was clearly a scammer.

A similar situation happened near Bellas Artes with a guy at one of those three-cups-one-ball sleight-of-hand games who asked us to "help him out for a sec."

Long story short, if you have the face of a sucker like we apparently do, there's a decent chance you'll be approached by indecent people trying to scam you. If they have suspiciously good English, be suspicious.

If you feel bad, do something nice for a stranger when you get home to make up for it.

✗  Don't take taxis

We don't know about you, but we prefer not to pay more money to expose ourselves to a higher risk of getting ripped off and getting lost. That's why we use Uber in Mexico City.

As an example, an official taxi from the airport to Roma Norte costs 220 pesos. Uber costs 130. Use those 90 pesos you save towards getting yourself a Mexican SIM card ( see above ) so you can use Uber.

Don't overlook other forms of transit, too. Biking, the bus, and the metro can be faster and are certainly cheaper. See our Mexico City Guide for more on getting around.

Before You Leave Mexico City

✓  buy your souvenir mezcal or tequila in the city, not at the airport duty-free.

The selection of booze in Mexico City's airport duty-free is expensive and only has brands you can buy in liquor stores back home.

Get a cheaper, better, more unique bottle in town. Bundle it up before packing it in your check-in luggage, pray it doesn't get smashed en route, then share it with your friends while exaggerating about how sought-after the particular brand it is.

✓  Make some money on the exchange rate

Mexico City airport currency exchange booths will pay you to take US dollars off their hands.

For example, Chris exchanged 720 pesos to dollars at the end of our trip. According to the official exchange rate that day, those pesos should have been worth $36 USD. But they gave him $37. He made $1 profit, which is more than this blog earns him most days.

If you happen to have have $10K cash in your bank account, you can exploit this loophole to make hundreds of dollars.

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Read This Next:

These Mexico City travel tips are part of our Local, Loco, and (Not) Low-Cal Mexico City blog.

Discover a whole lot more tasty tips by completing the series:

Mexico City Guide: 12 F.A.Qs for 1st Timers

How to Eat Like a Local in Mexico City: 15 Surefire Favorites

How to Explore Mexico City by Bike

Pulque: A Guide to Mexico's Kombucha on Steroids

50+ Travel Tips and Tricks That Will Change the Way You Travel

Disclosure: Whenever possible, we use links that earn us a cut if you pay for stuff we recommend. It costs you nothing, so we'd be crazy not to. Read our affiliate policy .

26 thoughts on “Mexico City Travel Tips: 20 Dos and Don'ts No One Tells You”

Great tips for visiting Mexico city. I like how you promote visiting local places. You have a to be a bit extra cautious when visiting Mexico.

Thanks for the perspective Henry. I agree you have to be cautious when visiting Mexico, but honestly you have to be cautious in any foreign country. Even in Vancouver, where we are now, you can find yourself in trouble if you're naive and careless. As for CDMX specifically, based on our experience and that of our friends who've been there and lived there, I'd definitely say it's way, WAY safer than most people think. As safe as many American cities. But just like in those cities, you're right that you gotta be careful.

Thanks for the tips! I'm planning a trip to Mexico City for the first time in February and I'm curious to hear why you think the Frida Khalo museum isn't worth it. I was planning to get tickets in advance to try to avoid the lines, but I'd love to hear your thoughts.

Hey Olivia. That's a really fair question. The reason I'd say it's overrated is because of the huge line that wastes so much precious CDMX time and because people go because other people go, even if they don't give a crap about art or Kahlo. They may as well go to one of the many other, but less popular, museum. But if you can avoid the line by getting a ticket and if you go in already with a true appreciation of Kahlo and desire to learn more, then by all means it's a good idea. Most people don't fit those criteria, though.

"The Blue House" is a marvelous 'don't miss' home that reflects so much of who Frieda Kahlo was. Colorful, decorated in this artist's very particular taste. One of the few city spots to which I often return..I am an artist. Much of my work – water color and photography, is of Mejico…

"Fair skinned, blonde haired" I see you poking fun at yourself. Really appreciate the post, been trying to collect as much information as possible. We're headed to CDMX mid February. I didn't see any mention of Xochilmilco canals or the ruins of Teotithuacan. Any recommendations? Priced a potential tour but more expensive than expecting. We are thinking maybe uber and tour ourselves. Vale la pena?

Also, lucha libre, yes or no?

Thanks – Mary

Hi Mary, Thanks for the questions!

We share our brief takes on Xochimilco, Teotihuacan, and lucha libre in our "Quick and Dirty Mexico City Guide" . Of the three, we'd recommend lucha libre the highest… even though we haven't done it. All our friends who have, even those who we wouldn't suspect would like it, gave us rave reviews.

On the other two, in addition to what we write in the Quick and Dirty guide I'd say the biggest determinant of whether to go or not is how much time you have. We consider neither to be absolute "must dos" for trip of less than a week, especially since the time you lose going there and back is precious. And if you want to get out of town, it's possibly even worth considering a pueblo like Tepotzlan instead.

Whatever you decide, have a fantastic trip. And if you discover tips of your own, or ones of ours you disagree with (politely of course), please come back to share it!

"For example, unless you’re such a Frida fan that you’ve grown a unibrow in her honor, it’s not worth it."

Are you seriously suggesting that Casa Azul isn't worth the wait? Instead of skipping the museum, I'd suggest planning your day better. There's tours that help you skip the line.

Fair enough, Julia. Sorry maybe for making you frown so much you almost have a unibrow yourself.

I would bet that a good percentage of people waiting in line are waiting simple because everyone else said to go. They could either plan better like you say, or prioritize based on their own interests.

Yeah, don't take a taxi! Much better to support this Uber exploiter company. by the way: a bus or metro would be even cheaper. But that is too local perhaps.

From taxi scammers to uber exploiters. What's next in the evolution? You're right, Momo, that we should mention buses and metro here. I'll update the post. Thanks!

OMG This post had me absolutely cracking up! "Tell your yuppie gut to make some Mexican friends." LOL what an incredible line! I am heading to Mexico (but CDMX for only 2 days) and am so thankful I found this post! Great tips. We are going to the Frida Khalo house, but got skip the line tickets in advance, and though I'm not a huge fan of art and museums, do love her for all that she accomplished as a female Mexican artist. As a traveler watching the budget I definitely appreciate all the local and more affordable tips!

Hey Nina, Thanks. It's nice to hear at least some people appreciate my attempts at humor.

Now that you mention it, I should mention the skip-the-line option for Frida. Thanks!

If you come up with any other tips to add from your experience, let me know. If I like it, I'll add it and link to your site as a shout-out.

Buen viaje!

Any comments on airlines between cities in Mexico. I don't want to waste time taking 6 hour bus trips, but the airlines have lots of negative reviews. Thanks!

Sorry, Jaimee, but I've mostly bussed around Mexico so I don't have enough experience on the airlines to help out. Any other reader with tips, please chime in!

Hi Jaimee, I highly recommend flying with a Mexican airline. Just be aware of the extra costs for luggage (that's why I always travel only with hand luggage), especially with the cheaper airlines. I have tried many airlines like Volaris, Air Mexico, Aeromar, VivaAerobús and even small airplanes with only 12 passengers and they were all very reliable. Let me know if you have more questions. And enjoy Mexico!

Great tips, guys (and gals). Thank!!

Two more we can add from recent experience.

1) Bank of America partners with ScotiaBank for ATM service in MX (and much of Latin America?) There are no fees for using a BoA ATM card at a Scotiabank AND you get prime exchange rate BUT a) you have to refuse the insurance and b) you have to say NO to their proposed excange rate (which is the last question the ATM asks you). Also there is seldom a Scotiabank location where you need it.

Regarding Cell Phones, T-mobile is a German company, and therefore they are aware that there are other countries in the world besides the US. They have partners in MX, Japan, France and – not surprisingly – Germany (these we have used ourselves) plus MANY more countries. When you arrive in a country with a T-mobile partner, you receive a text from them welcoming you, and then magically, your phone works, calls, texts, data, the whole enchilada. It's almost like living in the 21st Century !!

Thanks, Eric! I've updated the post with these tips of yours. Hope you enjoyed/are enjoying CDMX!

It’s a little concerning that you’re downplaying water safety precautions. “Don’t be a wuss. Suck it up and suck up the water?” I work in travel medicine and traveler’s diarrhea is the #1 sickness people get while visiting other countries. Not to mention other food and water borne illnesses like typhoid fever and Hepatitis A that can be difficult to treat in other countries. Most travelers who are new to the area should indeed be taking these precautions seriously. Contracting one of these illnesses can completely ruin one’s trip. Also, your verbiage and choice of words like “suck” and poking fun at unibrows is distasteful.

Thanks for sharing your tastes, Rae. Truly. It helps other readers to have varying opinions.

I love your blogpost and loved Mexico City so much! It was actually nicer than I expected. I thought it would be hectic, dirty and loud, but it was such an amazing city. We stayed in Roma Norte, but this would not be my first choice for my next time, because it has a lively (gay) party scene. I would go to Condesa or Reforma next time. I also recommend getting a creditcard with pesos on it, because they do accept a card in many places. And my final advice: just go!

Amazing blog! Thank you for making me want to visit Mexico right now. I just wanna share I use this website https://www.holidayhare.com/city/mexico-city/4075 to check country/city info like weather, visa requirements etc. before I travel. 🙂

We are planning a trip to Mexico next year, I wanted to check out your airbnb links but they don't seem to be working. Can you provide that info again??

Hi Amanda. Sorry but it seems they're not available anymore, so I've removed them from this post. Thanks for the heads up. Enjoy your stay!

Love this but frustrating that i signed up for a 3 day ecobicci prior to my trip It starts today and expires before i even arrive! I thought it would start on my initiation Maybe you should warm people not to sign up till you are ready to use it

How annoying! Thanks for the warning, Marcia. I've added the heads up to the post.

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26 Best Things to Do in Mexico City, From Fine Art to Fine Dining and Shopping

From visiting museums to learning about tequila, these are the best things to do in Mexico City.

Mexico City is centuries old, and it would take at least that amount of time to experience all the culture, dining, arts, and hidden corners the city offers. The sprawling metropolis is home to more than 9 million residents living in more than 1,800 colonias, or neighborhoods.

Mexico City has recently seen a rise in visitors, who come to sip chocolate at La Rifa Chocolateria and shop the Avenida Presidente Masaryk. Travelers enjoy both historical sites and new additions, like modern restaurants and hotels. 

There's simply too much to see, taste, and experience, but we came up with some of the best things to do in Mexico City to kickstart your exploration.

See the Murals at Palacio de Bellas Artes

Construction on this iconic concert hall and arts center in Centro Histórico started in 1905, but the the Art Nouveau/Art Deco building wasn’t finished until 1934. The third floor displays 17 murals by seven prominent Mexican artists of the 20th century. One of the pieces, Diego Rivera’s Man at the Crossroads, is a recreation of an earlier version the famed muralist and revolutionary created for New York’s Rockefeller Center (before it was deemed it too controversial and destroyed ).

Indulge in Fine Dining at Pujol

Pujol , Enrique Olvera’s celebrated ode to Mexican gastronomy, tops most lists of the best restaurants in Mexico City. The seasonal tasting menu showcases the kitchen's modern take on traditional Mexican techniques and ingredients, including a signature mole aged for over 2,000 days.

People Watch in Parque México

This urban park is the green heartbeat of La Condesa. Its oval shape evokes the horse-racing track it replaced in 1927. The trees, fountains, and ample seating provide a perfect spot to catch one’s breath and people watch. Explore the manicured walking paths with an espresso or hot chocolate in hand.

Find Inspiration at the Frida Kahlo Museum

Stephanie Pollak/Travel + Leisure

La Casa Azul (the Blue House), in Coyoacán, easily spotted thanks to its striking cobalt shade, is where Mexican artist and revolutionary Frida Kahlo spent much of her life. Now a museum , the house displays some of her personal belongings, paintings, photographs, and dresses in a series of rooms and gardens.

Shop Handicrafts at Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

Jorge Castro/Travel + Leisure

You don't have to travel to Oaxaca to find handicrafts and souvenirs made by local artisans. This market in Colonia Centro is the place to shop for ceramics, silver jewelry, wool blankets, and art handmade all over Mexico.

Wander Through Bosque de Chapultepec

At more than 1,600 acres, Bosque de Chapultepec is more than just a park. It houses a zoo, eight museums, a recreational lake, and monuments to Mexico's heroes. Don’t miss Chapultepec Castle, built in the 18 th century for the Spanish viceroy and now home to the National History Museum (pictured). Food vendors and street performers draw locals to the park on weekends.

Marvel at Museo Soumaya

The striking architecture is just part of what makes this jaw-dropping art museum one of the best things to do in Mexico City. The private collection holds more than 66,000 pieces with an estimated value of more than $700 million, but don't worry – admission is free.

Explore the Stacks at Biblioteca Vasconcelos

You might not initially include a library visit on a list of things to do in Mexico City, but Biblioteca Vasconcelos is an architectural marvel. The bookshelves are cantilevered out from the sides, giving them the appearance of floating from the ceiling. Smoked glass floors and multiple levels create an almost dizzying biblio-industrial aesthetic.

Chow Down at Churrería el Moro

Chewing on churros is easily one of the best things to do in Mexico City. While you'll find slightly stale (and cheaper) ones from street vendors, Churrería el Moro is an authentic stop for perfectly chewy churros, hot chocolate, and ice cream sandwiches. There are more than a dozen locations throughout the city, but the one in Centro Historico is the original and easiest to find.

Explore the Supernatural at Mercado Sonora

Mexico City is home to multiple markets, but Mercado Sonora is one of the few that sells occult products alongside piñatas, home goods, and fresh cacti. The rear of the market holds stalls dedicated to medicinal herbs, Santería statues, and Day of the Dead altar materials.

Visit Barrio Alameda

This Art Deco shopping and design center sits at the western edge of Alameda Central , the oldest public park in the Americas. It's one of the best places to go in Mexico City if you like visiting edgy boutiques and upscale restaurants. The rooftop patio is especially popular.

Order Seafood at Contramar

You might not think of landlocked Mexico City as a hotspot for seafood, but Contramar will confound your expectations. Creative takes on whole grilled fish and oysters abound.

Honor History at El Zócalo

Mexico City's Zócalo is one of the largest urban plazas in the world, and it occupies what had been the center of the ancient Aztec capital Tenochtitlan. Today, an enormous Mexican flag, which soldiers raise in a daily ceremony, marks the spot.

Stop by El Tizoncito for Tacos Al Pastor

This Condesa taqueria has some of the best tacos al pastor in Mexico City. Thinly-sliced and marinated pork is topped with raw onion, fresh cilantro, and slivers of sweet pineapple.

Listen to Music at Plaza Garibaldi

Plaza Garibaldi draws roving bands of Mariachi performers. Snag a spot at a nearby bar, order a tequila, and enjoy the show for the price of a song.

Take a Shot at the Museo del Tequila y Mezcal

Whether you choose a guided tour or wander among the tequila displays solo, there's a lot to learn about Mexico's most celebrated spirit at this museum . And yes, there's an onsite cantina where you can sample some for yourself.

Spot the Street Art

Mexico City is a respected art capital, but you don't have to visit a museum to see all of its masterpieces. The city's streets offer the opportunity to view an ever-changing showcase of murals and pieces, especially around Roma and Condesa.

Learn About the City's Ancient Origins at Templo Mayor

Templo Mayor was the primary worship site of the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan. Long thought lost after the destruction of the city by the Spanish in 1521, the remains of the temple were found next to the Metropolitan Cathedral and excavated from 1978 to 1982. Now, it's an archaeological site with an accompanying museum where visitors can view artifacts from the ancient structure and learn about its history.

Eat Something Unexpected at Quintonil

More than just a restaurant, Polanco's Quintonil is a gastronomic experience renowned for its ultra-modern Mexican cuisine with a traditional angle.

Experience the Zona Rosa Nightlife

The "pink zone" is one of the liveliest nightlife scenes in Mexico City, and it's particularly popular with the LGBTQ+ crowd. From karaoke bars to cocktail lounges to dancing, there's something for everyone.

Appreciate Indigenous History at Museo Nacional de Antropología

History enthusiasts will love this museum 's collection of Indigenous artifacts (the largest in Mexico) spread across multiple galleries and outdoor gardens. Don't miss the Sun Stone, an intricate ( and mysterious ) Aztec solar disk, in the Mexicas room.

Pick Up a Luxury Souvenir on Avenida Presidente Masaryk

Running through the middle of Polanco, Avenida Presidente Masaryk is one of the most expensive streets in the world, comparable to glitzy thoroughfares like New York's Fifth Avenue and Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. Here you’ll find luxury stores like Louis Vuitton and Cartier, as well as great restaurants, bars, and cafés.  

See What’s Blooming at Mercado de Jamaica 

This market in Venustiano Carranza stands out from others around Mexico City for its abundant bouquets of colorful flowers. Pick up a custom arrangement or just snap a pic in front of the pink and gold bursts of Mexican marigolds while breathing in the scent of 5,000 varieties of flowers and ornamental plants.  

Marvel at the Lobby of the Gran Hotel Ciudad de México

Julius Reque  / Getty Images

You don't have to make a reservation to appreciate the Gran Hotel Ciudad de México . Stop in to see the ornate Art Nouveau architecture, which includes an immense and elaborate stained-glass ceiling by French artisan Jacques Grüber. Come for the beautiful lobby and stay for a drink at La Terraza, the rooftop bar overlooking the Zócalo.

Satisfy Your Sweet Tooth at La Rifa Chocolateria

You’ll find plenty of chocolate shops in Mexico City, but we recommend heading straight to La Rifa in Juárez. Ingredients are locally and ethically sourced ,with the cacao beans coming from farms in Chiapas and Tabasco. La Rifa's frothy, brewed chocolate drinks can be infused with flavors like cardamom and honey.   

Glide Past the Floating Gardens of Xochimilco

About a 45-minute drive south from Centro, Xochimilco is home to a historic system of canals and lakes that once connected most of the settlements in the Valley of Mexico. Rent a colorful  trajinera at one of the embarcaderos (docks) and make your way around the UNESCO World Heritage Site . Pick up some pulque and elotes out on the water from one of the many floating vendors. 

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One of the world’s mega-cities, with over 25 million people occupying a shallow mountain bowl at over 2400m above sea level, Mexico City has to be seen to be believed. Bursting beyond the official federal district, the sprawling city is edgy, yet laid-back and cosmopolitan. Around the city lie the chief relics of the pre-Hispanic cultures of central Mexico. Here you'll find the massive pyramids of Teotihuacán and the main Toltec site at Tula . Read our Mexico City travel guide for everything you need to know before you go.

A brief history of Mexico City

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The Aztecs founded their capital of Tenochtitlán in 1325 on an island in the middle of a lake. From here their empire grew to cover the whole of central Mexico. Hernán Cortés and his troops arrived in 1519, taking the Aztec emperor, Moctezuma II, prisoner and attacking Aztec temples. Growing unrest led to rebellion, and in 1520, Moctezuma was killed – according to the Spanish, by his own people. The Spaniards fled but returned, stronger, a year later to lay siege to Tenochtitlán.

The Spanish systematically destroyed Aztec culture and created a new, bigger city. A turbulent period of disease and sinking buildings followed, and by the 1850s, the city comprised little more than the area around the Zócalo and Alameda.

From late 1870 to 1911, however, the dictator Porfirio Díaz presided over an aggressive building programme that fuelled growth. By the 1910 Revolution, Mexico City’s residents numbered over 400,000, regaining for the first time in four centuries the pre-Conquest population.

During the Revolution, thousands fled to rapidly industrializing Mexico City for work. By the mid-1940s the city’s population quadrupled, and shantytowns began springing up and then mushrooming. This expansion strained the transport system, resulting in the construction of a Metro system in the late 1960s.

Urban growth continues today, spilling out beyond the limits of the Distrito Federal. Despite the spread, Mexico City remains one of the world’s most densely populated cities. It has an long list of social and physical problems, including a vulnerability to earthquakes. The last big one, in 1985, killed over 9,000 people, made 100,000 homeless and skewed many of the city’s buildings.

The eternal heart of the city, the capital’s main plaza is surrounded by its cathedral and the ruins of Aztec Tenochtitlán . The excellent Museo del Templo Mayor helps set the temples in context.

Not only an architectural masterpiece in its own right, with a smashing Art Deco interior, the Palacio de Bellas Artes is also home to some of the city‘s most impressive murals.

Museo Mural Diego Rivera is the home of Rivera's most famous Mexican mural, depicting just about everybody from Mexican history, all out on a Sunday afternoon stroll in the Alameda.

• Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe The Basílica is in fact a whole series of churches, chapels and shrines set around an enormous stone-flagged plaza. It's little wonder that it can take a 5-hour tour to see the lot!

The Museo Nacional de Antropología is the country’s finest museum, with displays on all of Mexico’s major pre-Columbian cultures.

• Mariachi You’ll find mariachi played the length and breadth of the country but most notably in Mexico City’s Plaza Garibaldi.

Visit the houses where Frida Kahlo and León Trotsky lived, spend an evening checking out the local bars, then come back for the colourful Sunday market. You can book onto tours that take in the major sites.

Teotihuacán is the largest pre-Hispanic site in the country, dominated by the huge Pirámide de Sol and only slightly less huge Pirámide de la Luna. If you're feeling flush, splash out on a hot-air balloon flight over the pyramids.

Once a silver-mining centre, now a silver-buying centre, this whitewashed hillside town makes a welcome stop on the road to Acapulco. You can go on a tour and admire its silver jewellery, which is made in hundreds of workshops here.

A huge collection of works by Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo.

Rent a boat and soak up the carnival atmosphere, flowers and traditional floating gardens at the Mexico City suburb of Xochimilco .

The frenetic site of massed mariachi bands competing for your attention.

Explore Mexico City’s largest and most vibrant market.

Mexico’s crazy, high-octane capital may initially seem to lack the colour and charm of some of the country’s smaller towns, but it can be pretty too, and there’s certainly no denying its dynamism. Visit Mexico City and you’ll be rewarded with museums, murals and markets galore, while beyond the bustling colonial core lies a cluster of upmarket districts and leafy neighbourhoods.

Here are some of the best places to visit in Mexico City.

The Zócalo and around

The heart of Mexico City is the Zócalo, built by the Spanish right over the devastated ceremonial centre of the Aztec city of Tenochtitlán . Extraordinary uncovered ruins provide the Zócalo’s most compelling attraction, chief of which is the Templo Mayor. There’s also a wealth of great colonial buildings, among them the huge cathedral and the Palacio Nacional with its striking Diego Rivera murals. West of the Zócalo the centro histórico stretches through the main commercial district past the Museo Nacional de Arte to the sky-scraping Torre Latinoamericana and the Palacio de Bellas Artes with its gorgeous Art Deco interior.

Around the Alameda

Originally an Aztec market and later the site where the Inquisition burned its victims at the stake, the formal Alameda parkland you see now dates from the nineteenth century. Around the Alameda is a clutch of museums, including Museo de Tequila y Mezcal, which tells the story of Mexico’s best-known liquors, and the Museo Mural Diego Rivera, with the artist’s famed Sueño de una Tarde Dominical en la Alameda .

The Monumento a la Revolución heralds the more upmarket central suburbs, chiefly the Zona Rosa. You’ll know you’re there as the streets are all named after famous cities. Packed into this tiny area are hundreds of bars, restaurants, hotels and shops, all teeming with a vast number of tourists and a cross-section of Mexico City’s aspiring middle classes. Mexico City’s gay village can be found around the northern end of Amberes.

Roma and Condesa

South of the Zona Rosa lie the leafy residential districts of Roma and Condesa. Both suburbs were developed in the 1930s and 1940s, but as the city expanded they became unfashionable and run-down. That all changed in the 1990s when artists and the bohemian fringe were drawn here by low rents, decent housing and proximity to the city centre. Small-time galleries sprang up and the first of the bars and cafés opened. Condesa, in particular, is now one of the best areas for good eating in the city, brimming with pavement cafés and bistro-style restaurants.

Accommodation in Mexico City ranges from budget hostels to some of the swankiest hotels in the country. Book ahead, as the best-value places can fill up quickly. Most places have 24hr reception desks and are geared for late arrivals and early departures. With reasonably cheap taxi fares into the Zócalo or Zona Rosa, it seldom makes financial sense to stay near the bus stations or airport. If you arrive especially late, there are places to stay that are very handy for the airport and Terminal del Norte.

There are reasonably priced restaurants, cafés, taquerías and juice stands on every block. The choice of where to eat in Mexico City ranges from traditional coffee houses to on-the-go lunch counters, taking in expensive international and rock-bottom Mexican cooking along the way. Food stalls can be found in markets throughout the city; Merced is the biggest, but not a terribly pleasant place to eat. At the back of Plaza Garibaldi, there’s a whole market hall given over to nothing but food stands, each vociferously competing with its neighbours.

Club-oriented nightlife starts late in Mexico City. Live acts often hit the stage after 11pm and few places really getting going before midnight. Cuban music is particularly popular, and with Cuba just a short flight away, Mexico City hosts a lot of the island’s emerging talent. Bars range from dirt-cheap pulquerías and cantinas to upscale lounges and hotel bars. As elsewhere in the country, cantinas and pulquerías are still largely a male preserve. The Zona Rosa (pink zone) is Mexico City’s gay zone, and in particular the northernmost section of Amberes between Hamburgo and Reforma, where you’ll find a slew of gay and lesbian bars.

An odd hangover from Aztec times is the practice of devoting a whole street to one particular trade, which occurs to some extent throughout the city. There are blocks where you can buy nothing but stationery, while other areas are packed exclusively with shoe shops and still others only sell musical instruments. To buy crafts, there is no need to visit the place of origin – shops in Mexico City and all the big resorts gather the best and most popular items from around the country. For bargain hunters, the mercado (market) is the place to head; La Merced is Mexico City’s largest and most vibrant market.

This section of the Mexico City travel guide will look at some of the best activities in the capital.

Lucha libre

Though its popularity has waned in recent years, lucha libre , or wrestling, remains one of Mexico’s most avidly followed spectator sports. Mexican wrestling is generally faster, with more complex moves, and more combatants in the ring at any one time than you would normally see in an American or British bout. More important, however, is the maintenance of stage personas, most of whom, heroes or villains, wear masks. Catch a 3.5-hour show if you can.

There is no event more quintessentially Mexican than the bullfight . Rooted in Spanish machismo and imbued with multiple layers of symbolism and interpretation, it transcends a mere battle of man against animal. If you don’t mind the inherent cruelty of the spectacle, it’s worth attending a corrida de toros to see this integral part of the Mexican experience. Plaza México, a giant 48,000-seat arena in Mexico City, is the largest bullring in the world.

Ask any local what to see in Mexico City and they’ll say fútbol, which is undoubtedly Mexico’s most popular sport. The capital is one of the best places to see a football match. The biggest game in the domestic league, “El Clásico”, between Chivas from Guadalajara and América from Mexico City, fills the city’s 150,000-seater Aztec stadium to capacity. There are usually at least two games every Sunday afternoon from January to June and August to November.

Taking part in a local fiesta is one of the most exuberant things to do in Mexico City, and the following is just a teaser of the country’s jam-packed event programme:

• Día de los Santos Reyes (Jan 6). Celebrations include a fiesta with dancing at Nativitas, a suburb near Xochimilco.
• Bendicíon de los Animales (Jan 17). Children’s pets and peasants’ farm animals are taken to the cathedral to be blessed.
• Día de San Pedro (June 29). Marked by traditional dancing in San Pedro Actopan, on the southern outskirts of the DF.
• Día de Santa Marta (July 25). Celebrated in Milpa Alta, near Xochimilco, with Aztec dances and mock fights between Moors and Christians.
• Independence Day (Sept 15). The president of the republic proclaims the famous Grito at 11pm in the Zócalo, followed by the ringing of the Campana de Dolores and a huge firework display.
• Día de Santa Cecilia (Nov 22). Santa Cecilia is the patron saint of musicians, and her fiesta attracts orchestras and mariachi bands from all over to Santa Cecilia Tepetlapa, near Xochimilco.
• Día de la Señora de Guadalupe (Dec 12). The saint’s day of Mexico’s favourite Virgin heralds a massive pilgrimage to the Basilica of Guadalupe, running for several days, with a more secular celebration of music and dancing.

The capital is where the Mexican extremes of wealth and poverty are most apparent. Such financial disparity fuels theft, but just take the same precautions you would in any large city. Keep your valuables – especially credit or debit cards – in the hotel safe. Don’t flash large wads of money around and keep an eye on your camera and other valuables in busy market areas.

At night, avoid the barrio known as Doctores and the area around Lagunilla market - both centres of the street drug trade, and therefore opportunist crime.

Note that mugging is not the only danger – abduction for ransom is increasingly common too.

Taxis have a bad reputation and, though drivers are mostly helpful and courteous, it is best not to hail one off the street. Read our Mexico City Guide for more safety advice .

Look beyond the capital’s frenetic, high-octane core, and you’ll discover a raft of enticing places to visit around Mexico City. Spreading itself furthest to the south, the urban sprawl has swallowed up a series of old villages. These harbour the colonial suburbs of Coyoacán and San Ángel, the archaeological site of Cuicuilco and the canals of Xochimilco. The area north of the city centre has less to offer, but two sites of compelling interest are the emotive Plaza de las Tres Culturas and the great Basílica de Guadalupe. Further out, you’ll find the pyramids of Tenayuca and Santa Cecilia Acatitlán, the city’s two most dramatically preserved remains of Aztec architecture.

With its markets, ancient mansions and high-priced shops around flower-draped patios, San Ángel is a very exclusive place to live. It is also one of the most inviting places to visit around Mexico City, packed with little restaurants and cafés where you can sit outside and watch the crowds go by.

Around 3km east of San Ángel lies Coyoacán , another colonial township that has been absorbed by the city. Cortés based himself in Coyoacán during the siege of Tenochtitlán , and continued to live here while the old city was torn down. While the Plaza Central is the focus of the town, no visit to Mexico is complete without strolling out to the northern reaches to the Frida Kahlo and Leon Trotsky museums.

The floating gardens adjoining the suburb of Xochimilco offer an intense carnival atmosphere every weekend. Renting a colourful boat is one of the top things to do in Mexico City, as you’ll be ferried around the picturesque canals while marimba players and market stallholders compete for your attention.

The Plaza de las Tres Culturas is the site of the ancient city of Tlatelolco, located to the north of Tenochtitlán . Today, a lovely colonial church rises in the midst of the city’s excavated ruins, exemplifying the second of the three cultures from which the plaza takes its name.

The 20m-high pyramid in the main square at Tenayuca, a suburb just outside the city limits, is another site that predates Tenochtitlán by a long chalk. Indeed, there are those who claim it was the capital of the tribe that destroyed Tula . The pyramid that survives dates from the period of Aztec dominance and is an almost perfect miniature replica of the great temples of Tlatelolco and Tenochtitlán.

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Top image: Palacio de Bellas Artes or Palace of Fine Arts, a famous theater,museum and music venue in Mexico City © Kamira/Shutterstock

Soccer and wrestling may be more popular, but there is no event more quintessentially Mexican than the bullfight . Rooted in Spanish machismo and imbued with multiple layers of symbolism and interpretation, it transcends a mere battle of man against animal. If you don’t mind the inherent cruelty of the spectacle (essentially you’re watching an animal being artfully tortured to death), it’s worth attending a corrida de toros to see this integral part of the Mexican experience. It is a sport that transcends class barriers; every Sunday afternoon during the winter season men and women from all walks of Mexican society file into the stadium – though some admittedly end up in plush sombra (shade) seats while the masses occupy concrete sol (sun) terraces.

Each corrida lasts around two hours and involves six bulls, all from one ranch, with each of three matadors taking two bulls. Typically there will be two Mexican matadors and one from Spain, which still produces the best performers. Each fight is divided into three suertes (acts) or tercios (thirds), each announced by a trumpet blast. During the first tercio , several toreros with large capes tire the bull in preparation for the picadores who, from their mounts atop heavily padded and blindfolded horses, attempt to force a lance between the bull’s shoulder blades to further weaken him. The toreros then return for the second tercio , in which one of their number (and sometimes the matador himself) will try to stab six metal-tipped spikes (known as bandilleras ) into the bull in as clean and elegant a manner as possible.

Exhausted and frustrated, but by no means docile, the bull is now considered ready for the third and final tercio , the suerte de muleta . The matador continues to tire the bull while pulling off as many graceful and daring moves as possible. By now the crowd will have sensed the bravery and finesse of the matador and the spirit of the bull he is up against, and shouts of “¡Olé!” will reverberate around the stadium with every pass. Eventually the matador will entice the bull to challenge him head-on, standing there with its hooves together. As it charges he will thrust his sword between its shoulder blades and, if it is well executed, the bull will crumple to the sand. However barbaric you might think it is, no one likes to see the bull suffer and even the finest performance will garner the matador little praise without a clean kill. Successful matadors may be awarded one of the bull’s ears, rarely two, and perhaps two or three times a season the tail as well. An especially courageous bull may be spared and put out to stud, a cause for much celebration, but this is a rare spectacle.

Puebla’s expansion in recent years has made Cholula , 15km to the west, virtually a suburb. Nonetheless, it retains its small-town charm and has one abiding reason to visit: the ruins of Cholula . A rival of Teotihuacán at its height, and the most powerful city in the country between the fall of Teotihuacán and the rise of Tula, Cholula was, at the time of the Conquest, a vast city of some four hundred temples, famed as a shrine to Quetzalcoatl and for the excellence of its pottery (a trade dominated by immigrant Mixtecs). But it paid dearly for an attempt, inspired by its Aztec allies, to ambush Cortés on his march to Tenochtitlán: the chieftains were slaughtered, their temples destroyed and churches built in their place. The Spaniards claimed to have constructed 365 churches here, one for each day of the year. Although there are a lot of churches, the true figure certainly doesn’t live up to the claim. There may well be 365 chapels within the churches, though, which is already a few hundred more than the village population could reasonably need.

Arriving in Cholula, you can’t miss the Nuestra Señora de los Remedios , picturesquely sited atop a hill with Popocatépetl in the background. If you climb up to it, you can buy snacks such as chapulines (fried grasshoppers) on the way. What’s not immediately apparent is that the hill is in fact the remains of the Great Pyramid of Cholula – the Pirámide Tepanapa – the largest pyramid ever constructed, though it’s now ruined, overgrown and really not much to look at. At 66m, it is lower than the largest of the Egyptian pyramids but with each side measuring 350m it is also squatter and bulkier. As at other sites, the outer shell was built over a series of nested pyramids, constructed between 200 BC and 800 AD.

The archeological site

The archeological site around and underneath the pyramid is usually accessed from an entrance on San Andrés through a 400m-long series of tunnels dug by archeologists. Though undoubtedly fascinating, the ruins are a good deal less impressive than some of the more famed sites around the Valley of México. The ring of superimposed structures around the Patio de los Altares is certainly worth a look and there are some fine murals , but these can be better appreciated in the site museum where replicas are kept.

The tunnels

Even when you can go inside, the section open to the public is just a fraction of the 8km of exploratory tunnels which honeycomb the pyramid. They’re well lit and capacious enough for most people to walk upright, but there’s still a palpable sense of adventure as you spur off down side tunnels, which reveal elements of earlier temples and steep ceremonial stairways that appear to go on forever into the gloom. Emerging at the end of one tunnel, you’ll find an area of open-air excavations, where part of the great pyramid has been exposed alongside various lesser shrines with explanations in English of their importance.

Mexico City comes with an unenviable reputation for overcrowding, grime and crime, and to some extent this is deserved. Certainly there is pollution. The whole urban area sits in a low mountain bowl that deflects smog-clearing winds away from the city, allowing a thick blanket of haze to build up throughout the day. Conditions are particularly bad in winter, when there is no rain, and pollution levels (reported daily in the English-language newspaper, The News , thenews.com.mx ) tend to peak in the early afternoon. In response, the Hoy No Circula (“Don’t drive today”) law prohibits car use from 5am to 10pm for one day in the working week for vehicles over six years old, the day depending on the car’s numberplate. Nonetheless, those prone to respiratory problems may have some difficulty on arrival, due to the city’s air quality and altitude.

The capital is where the Mexican extremes of wealth and poverty are most apparent, with shiny, valet-parked SUVs vying for space with pavement vendors and beggars. Such financial disparity fuels theft, but just take the same precautions you would in any large city; there is no need to feel particularly paranoid. Keep your valuables – especially credit or debit cards – in the hotel safe (even cheap hotels often have somewhere secure; muggers who catch you with an ATM card may keep hold of you till they have extracted enough cash with it), don’t flash large wads of money around and keep an eye on your camera and other valuables in busy market areas. At night, avoid the barrio known as Doctores (around the Metro station of the same name, so called because the streets are named after doctors), and the area around Lagunilla market, both centres of the street drug trade, and therefore opportunist crime. Note that mugging is not the only danger – abduction for ransom is increasingly common too.

Taxis have a bad reputation and, though drivers are mostly helpful and courteous, there are reports of people being robbed or abducted (often in stolen taxis). If possible, get your hotel to call you a cab (more expensive), or call one yourself. If you do have to hail a cab in the street, always take one whose registration, on both the numberplate and the side of the vehicle, begins with an L (for “libre” – to be hailed while driving around), and which has the driver’s identification prominently displayed. Better still, find a taxi rank and take a sitio taxi that can be traced to that rank (with a number beginning in R, S or T, and again with the driver’s ID prominently displayed). Do not take taxis from the airport or bus terminals other than prepaid ones, and avoid taking those waiting outside tourist spots.

COYOACÁN is a colonial township that has been absorbed by the city. Even before the Conquest it was a sizeable place. Originally the capital of a small lakeshore kingdom, it was subjugated by the Aztecs in the mid-fifteenth century. Cortés based himself in Coyoacán during the siege of Tenochtitlán, and continued to live here while the old city was torn down and construction began on the capital of Nueva España. The focus of the area is the spacious Plaza Central, but no visit to Coyoacán is complete without strolling out to the northern reaches of the suburb to the two main sights, the Frida Kahlo and Leon Trotsky museums.

The Museo Frida Kahlo is just a few minutes’ walk from the centre of Coyoacán. The appropriately named Blue House was the Kahlos’ family home and this is where Frida was born and spent most of her life, sporadically with husband Diego Rivera, who donated the house to the nation shortly after her death. It was during Frida and Diego’s tenure here in the late 1930s that they played host to the newly arrived Leon Trotsky and his wife. Trotsky, ever fearful of assassins, apparently expressed his concern about the ease of access from a neighbouring property, and in a typically expansive gesture Diego simply bought the other house and combined the two. Continually at the centre of the capital’s leftist bohemian life, Diego and Frida hosted a coterie of artists and intellectuals at this house; D.H. Lawrence was a frequent visitor, though he had little political or artistic sympathy with Kahlo, let alone Trotsky.

Several rooms have been set aside as galleries. The first features around twenty relatively minor (and less tortured) examples of Frida’s work, from some of her early portraits through to her final work, Viva la Vida, a still life of sliced watermelons. She painted it in 1954, when the pain and trauma of her recent leg amputation had taken their toll on her painterly control, if not her spirit. Look too for a beautiful charcoal self-portrait from 1932 and the more political El Marxismo Dará la Salud a los Enfermos (Marxism Will Give Health to the Sick) from 1954. A room full of Frida’s signature tehuana dresses leads to more paintings, including over a dozen by Rivera, such as Paisaje de la Quebrada, which shows a rock face at Acapulco into which Diego painted his own face in purple. Alongside are several works by Velasco and Orozco, as well as a Klee and a Tanguy.

Interior and artefacts

Other sections of the house faithfully show the artesanía style that Frida favoured. Witness the blue and yellow kitchen with “Diego” and “Frida” picked out in tiny ceramic mugs on the wall. Its extraordinary decoration continues with bizarre papier-mâché animals and figures, and an impressive collection of retablos around the stairway. This leads up to Frida’s airy studio where her wheelchair is artfully set next to an easel and, of course, a mirror. Diego’s influence in the house is seen more through his interest in Mexico’s pre-Hispanic culture. Artefacts are scattered throughout the house and a small collection is displayed in the courtyard on a small two-step pyramid he had constructed there.

Museo Casa de León Trotsky

Trotsky’s House, or the Museo Casa de León Trotsky, where the genius of the Russian Revolution and organizer of the Red Army lived and worked, is about four blocks away and represents virtually the only memorial to Trotsky anywhere in the world. After Lenin’s death, Trotsky was forced into exile and condemned to death, and as increasing numbers of countries refused him asylum he sought refuge in Mexico in 1937, aided by Diego Rivera (at the time an ardent Trotskyite), who petitioned President Lázaro Cárdenas on his behalf. Here Stalin’s long arm finally caught up with him (see The assassination of Trotsky), despite the house being reinforced with steel gates and shutters, high walls and watchtowers. Today the fortified building seems at first a little incongruous, surrounded by the bourgeois homes of a prosperous suburb, but inside it’s a human place, set up as he left it, if rather dustier: books on the shelves, his glasses smashed on the desk and all the trappings of a fairly comfortable ordinary life – except for the bullet holes.

Since the 1970s, Frida Kahlo (1907–54) has been considered Mexico’s most internationally renowned artist, outshining even her husband, Diego Rivera, who recognized her as “the first woman in the history of art to treat, with absolute and uncompromising honesty, one might even say with impassive cruelty, those general and specific themes which exclusively affect women”. Julie Taymor’s 2002 biopic Frida, starring Salma Hayek, further consolidated her role as a feminist icon. Her work is deeply personal, centred on her insecurities and her relations with her family, her country and her politics. “I paint myself,” she said, “because I am so often alone, and because I am the subject I know best.” Her relatively short painting career was never prolific and the largest collection of her work is at the Museo Dolores Olmedo Patiño.

The daughter of a mestizo Mexican mother and Hungarian Jewish father, Frida was born in the Blue House in Coyoacán (now the Museo Frida Kahlo). When she was 6, she battled a bout of polio that left her right leg withered. She rebounded and, as a precocious 14-year-old at Mexico City’s top school, first met Diego Rivera (twenty years her senior) who was painting a mural there. She shocked her friends by declaring that she wished to conceive his child “just as soon as I convince him to cooperate”, but they didn’t meet again for many years.

Marriage to Rivera

At 18, and already breaking free of the roles then ordained for women in Mexico, Frida had begun to pursue a career in medicine when she suffered a gruesome accident. The bus she was riding in was struck by a tram, leaving her with multiple fractures and a pelvis skewered by a steel handrail. It was during the months she spent bedridden, recovering, that she first took up a paintbrush. Later in life, she reflected “I had two accidents in my life. One was the bus, the other Diego.” After her recovery she fell in with a left-leaning bunch of artists, free-thinkers and Communists where she again met Rivera. Within a year they were married: she a striking, slender woman of 21; he a massively overweight man twice her age with a frog-like face and an unparalleled reputation for womanizing. Diego went about his affairs quite publicly (including briefly with Frida’s sister, Cristina). He was furious when Frida took up with other men, but her several affairs with women seemed to delight him. After her death he wrote, “Too late now, I realized that the most wonderful part of my life had been my love for Frida.”

Artistic career

Encouraged by Diego, Frida pursued her painting career. Over half of her canvases are self-portraits: imbued with sophisticated personal symbolism, with themes of abortion, broken bones and betrayed love explored through the body set in an unlikely juxtaposition of elements.

In 1932 Frida miscarried and was hospitalized in Detroit where she painted Henry Ford Hospital. This disturbing depiction of her grief shows her naked body lying on a bed in an industrial wasteland, surrounded by a foetus, pelvic bones and surgical implements all umbilically tied back to her. After returning to Mexico, her circle of friends expanded to include Trotsky (with whom she had a brief affair), Cuban Communist Julio Antonio Mella and muralist David Siqueiros (later implicated in an attempt to kill Trotsky). By now Frida and Diego were living in paired houses in San Ángel, which allowed them to maintain relatively separate lives. In 1939 they divorced, a devastating event Frida recorded in Autoretrato con el Pelo Cortado (Self-Portrait with Cropped Hair), in which her trademark long tresses and indigenous tehuana dresses (both much loved by Diego) are replaced by Diego’s oversized suit and cropped hair. They remarried a year later, with Frida insisting on financial independence and a celibate relationship.

The injuries from her accident dogged her throughout her life, and as her physical condition worsened she found solace in her work (as well as drink and painkilling drugs), painting La Columna Rota (The Broken Column), in 1944, with her crushed spine depicted as an Ionic column. Despite increasing commercial and critical success, Frida had only one solo exhibition of her work during her lifetime, in Mexico City just a year before she died. In her later years she was wheelchair-bound, but continued the political activism she had always pursued, and died after defying medical advice and taking part in a demonstration against American intervention in Guatemala while she was convalescing from pneumonia in July 1954. By this stage, she knew she was dying; defiantly, on her last work, she daubed the words “Viva la Vida” – “Long Live Life”.

The first attempt on Trotsky’s life, in his house at Coyoacán, left more than seventy scars in the plaster of the bedroom walls. At 4am on May 24, 1940, a heavily armed group led by painter David Siqueiros (who had been a commander in the Spanish Civil War and was working under the orders of the Stalinist Mexican Communist Party) overcame the guards and pumped more than two hundred shots into the house. Trotsky, his wife and son survived only by hiding under their beds. After this, the house, already heavily guarded, was further fortified. Unknown to all, though, the eventual assassin had already inveigled his way into the household, posing as a businessman being converted to the cause. Although he was never fully trusted, his arrival at the house on the afternoon of August 20, with an article that he wanted Trotsky to look over, seemed innocuous enough. Trotsky invited him into the study and moments later the notorious ice pick (the blunt end), which had been concealed under the killer’s coat, smashed into Trotsky’s skull. He died some 24 hours later, in the hospital after an operation failed to save his life. The killer, who called himself Frank Jackson and claimed to be Belgian, served twenty years in jail, though he never explained his actions or even confessed to his true identity, Jaime Ramón Mercader del Río.

With its refreshing spring-like climate, CUERNAVACA has always provided a place of escape from Mexico City, but it isn’t always as refreshing as it claims to be. The state capital of Morelos, it is rapidly becoming industrialized, and the streets in the centre are permanently clogged with traffic and fumes. The gardens and villas that shelter the rich are almost all hidden away or in districts far from the centre, and many of them belong to narco-barons, whose rivalries brought a spate of violence in 2010. The spring of that year saw discotheques attacked and castrated corpses hung from bridges as deputies of a local kingpin fought for succession in the wake of his assassination by Mexican marines. The ensuing conflict left some fifty people dead, although the situation has calmed down somewhat since then.

The Aztecs called the city Cuauhnahuac (“place by the woods”), and it became a favourite resort and hunting ground for their rulers; the Spaniards corrupted the name to Cuernavaca (“cow horn”) simply because they couldn’t pronounce Cuauhnahuac. Hernán Cortés seized and destroyed the city during the siege of Tenochtitlán, then built himself a palace here. The palace-building trend has continued over the centuries: Emperor Maximilian and the deposed Shah of Iran both had houses here, and the inner suburbs are packed with the high-walled mansions of wealthy Mexicans and expats.

Though its popularity has waned in recent years, lucha libre , or wrestling, remains one of Mexico’s most avidly followed spectator sports. Over a dozen venues in the capital alone host fights several nights a week for a fanatical public. Widely available magazines, comics, photonovels and films recount the real and imagined lives of the rings’ heroes and villains, though the nightly telecasts are now a thing of the past.

Mexican wrestling is generally faster, with more complex moves, and more combatants in the ring at any one time than you would normally see in an American or British bout. This can make the action hard to follow for the uninitiated. More important, however, is the maintenance of stage personas, most of whom, heroes or villains, wear masks . The rudos tend to use brute force or indulge in sneaky, underhanded tactics to foil the opposition, while the técnicos use wit and guile to compensate for lack of brawn. This faux battle, not at all unlike WWE on-screen antics, requires a massive suspension of disbelief – crucial if you want to join in the fun.

One of the most bizarre features of wrestling was the emergence of wrestlers as political figures – typically still in costume. The most famous of these, Superbarrio , arose from the struggle of Mexico City’s tenant associations for fair rents and decent housing after the 1985 earthquake to become part of mainstream political opposition, even challenging government officials to step into the ring with him, and acting as a sort of unofficial cheerleader at opposition rallies.

The most famous wrestler of all time, however, was without doubt El Santo (“the Saint”). Immortalized in more than twenty movies, with titles such as El Santo vs the Vampire Women , he would fight, eat, drink and play the romantic lead without ever removing his mask, and until after his retirement, he never revealed his identity. His reputation as a gentleman in and out of the ring was legendary, and his death in 1984 widely mourned. His funeral was allegedly the second best-attended in Mexican history after that of President Obregón.

In Mexico City, fights can usually be seen on Tuesdays at the Arena Coliseo , Peru 77 (Metro Allende) and on Fridays at the Arena México , Dr Lucio 197 at Dr Lavista, Colonia Doctores (two blocks south and one east of Metro Balderas, but not a good area to be in at night). Tickets are sold on the door.

Paseo de la Reforma is the most impressive street in Mexico City, lined by tall, modern buildings. It was originally laid out in the 1860s by Emperor Maximilian to provide the city with a boulevard to rival the great European capitals, and doubled as a ceremonial drive from his palace in Chapultepec to the centre. It also provided a new impetus, and direction, for the growing metropolis. The original length of the broad avenue ran simply from the Bosque de Chapultepec to the junction of Juárez – at 5km a very long walk, but there are plenty of buses and peseros – and although it has been extended in both directions, this stretch is still what everyone thinks of as Reforma.

“Reforma Norte”, as the extension towards Guadalupe is known, is just as wide (and the traffic just as dense), but is almost a term of disparagement. Real Reforma, however, remains imposing – ten lanes of traffic, lines of trees, grand statues at every intersection and perhaps three or four of the original French-style, nineteenth-century houses still surviving. Twenty or thirty years ago it was the dynamic heart of the growing city, with even relatively new buildings being torn down to make way for yet newer, taller, more prestigious towers of steel and glass. The pulse has since moved elsewhere, and the fancy shops have relocated, leaving an avenue now mostly lined with airline offices, car rental agencies and banks, and somewhat diminishing the pleasure of a stroll.

The elegant colonial city of PUEBLA, the republic’s fifth-largest city (after Mexico City, Guadalajara, Monterrey and Tijuana), is an easy forty-minute trip from Tlaxcala, or a couple of hours by bus from Mexico City – with glorious views of the snowy heights of Popocatépetl and Ixtaccíhuatl on the way. Known for its fine cuisine, Puebla has a remarkable concentration of sights – a fabulous cathedral, a “hidden” convent, museums and colonial mansions – while the mountainous surrounding country is in places startlingly beautiful. The city centre and Cerro de Guadalupe, where all these sights are to be found, form quite a compact area, easy to get around, and you can see the best of the city and nearby Cholula in a couple of leisurely days, or even – at a brisk trot – in one packed day.

Military defeat seems to play a larger part in Puebla’s history than it does in most of Mexico – the city fell to the Americans in 1847 and to the French in 1863 – but that isn’t what’s remembered. Rather, what’s remembered and commemorated here is the greatest victory in the country’s history, at the Battle of Puebla in 1862, when a force of some two thousand Mexicans defeated a French army three times its size. The French were trying to make the Austrian prince Maxamilian emperor of Mexico, but when they tried to occupy Puebla, Mexican troops based in the two forts on the Cerro de Guadalupe (the Fuerte de Loreto and the Fuerte de Guadalupe) beat them off, forcing them to withdraw back towards their base at Veracruz and putting a serious dent into French plans. To this day, Puebla commemorates May 5 (Cinco de Mayo) with a massive fiesta, and there’s a public holiday throughout the country.

Fourteen kilometres north of Pachuca, draped across pine-clad hills, sits REAL DEL MONTE (aka Mineral del Monte), a once very wealthy silver-mining town, and, at over 2700m, a nice retreat from Mexico City. It’s a quietly appealing place where you can wander around the well-tended streets, and carefully explore mining relics in the surrounding hills. The town’s architecture is largely Spanish colonial, but is given an odd twist by the almost exclusive use of red corrugated-iron roofing, and the existence of Cornish-style cottages with their double-pitched rooflines.

As in much of Latin America, fútbol in Mexico is a national addiction, if not an obsession. Turn on the TV and often as not you’ll find a match. If you can get to see a live game, it’s a different experience entirely. For up-to-date information on Mexican league teams, fixtures and tables, visit futmex.com or futbolmexicano.net .

Football was introduced to Mexico in the nineteenth century by Cornish miners in Real del Monte, Hidalgo, and it was in that state, by descendants of those same Cornishmen, that Mexico’s first football club, Pachuca, was founded in 1901. The football league was created six years later. Mexico’s football league follows a complicated ladder system: the first division is divided into three tables of six teams each, which are decided by the previous season’s placings, with the league champions placed first in table one, second placed top of table two and so on. The top two teams of each table compete in a play-off for the league championship.

There are two seasons a year: Apertura (Aug–Nov) and Clausura (Jan–June). At the end of the Clausura season, the two seasons’ winners (if they are different) compete to decide that year’s champion of champions. Relegation to a lower division is decided over a two-season (yearly) loss average, so it is, in fact, technically possible to come first in the league and be relegated in the same season. However, relegation need not be the disaster that it might seem. Take, for example, Puebla C.F., who when relegated in 1999 simply bought the team promoted from Primera B (Curtodores), changed their name to Puebla and relocated them, which is perfectly legal under Mexican financial regulations. Similarly, there are no regulations preventing anyone from owning more than one team, which can lead to a clash of interests that are never more than speculated upon; suspicion of corruption is rife but rarely, if ever, investigated.

Matches are always exciting and enjoyed by even the most diehard “anti-futbolistas”. Music, dancing and, of course, the ubiquitous Mexican Wave make for a carnival atmosphere, enhanced by spectators dressing up and wearing face paint. They’re usually very much family affairs, with official salespeople bringing soft drinks, beer and various types of food at fixed prices to your seat. Stadiums tend to be mostly concrete, with sitting room only, and can sometimes be dangerously overcrowded, though accidents are thankfully rare.

The bigger clubs are those of Mexico City (América, Cruz Azul, Pumas – the national university side – Necaxa and Atlante) and Guadalajara (Chivas, Atlas and Tecos) and the games between any of these can draw crowds of up to eighty thousand, while smaller clubs like those of Puebla, Irapuato and Celaya may get no more than ten thousand or fifteen thousand spectators per game. The vast distances between clubs make travelling to away games impossible for many fans, one reason why smaller, more out-of-the-way clubs don’t get as much support. Opposing fans aren’t generally separated, but an atmosphere of self-policing prevails – making it an ideal family occasion. The greatest risk is often to the referee, who is frequently escorted from the pitch by armed riot police.

For national games the whole country is united, and football has many times been shown to rise above partisan politics. In 1999, despite being outlawed by the government, the EZLN football squad even played an exhibition match against the national side in Mexico City’s Estadio Azteca.

In 1824, a British firm took over the old silver mines in Real del Monte, which had first been opened by the Spanish in the mid-sixteenth century. Needing some mining expertise, the British brought over some 350 Cornish tin miners to help run the pits, but pulled out in 1848, to be replaced by a Mexican successor firm. Most of the tin miners stayed on however, and their legacy in Pachuca and Real del Monte lives on too, in the form of some surprisingly authentic Cornish pasties, and the introduction of fútbol (soccer), which was played for the first time on Mexican soil in Real del Monte. A plaque in the car park at the southern end of Hidalgo marks the spot where that first game was played, and it was this same Cornish community who went on to found Pachuca football club and the Mexican football league.

Silver has been mined in TAXCO since before the Conquest. Supplies of the metal have long been depleted, but it is still the basis of the town’s fame, as well as its livelihood, in the form of jewellery, which is made in hundreds of workshops here, and sold in an array of shops ( platerías ) catering mainly to tourists. The city is an attractive place, like some Mexican version of a Tuscan village, with a mass of terracotta-tiled, whitewashed houses lining narrow, cobbled alleys that straggle steeply uphill. At intervals the pattern is broken by a larger mansion, or by a courtyard filled with flowers or by the tower of a church rearing up; the twin spires of Santa Prisca , a Baroque wedding cake of a church in the centre of town, stand out above all.

Though it might seem a prosperous place now, Taxco’s development has not been entirely straightforward – indeed on more than one occasion the town has been all but abandoned. The Spaniards came running at the rumours of mineral wealth here (Cortés himself sent an expedition in 1522), but their success was short-lived, and it wasn’t until the eighteenth century that French immigrant José de la Borda struck it fabulously rich by discovering the San Ignacio vein. It was during Borda’s short lifetime that most of what you see originated – he spent an enormous sum on building the church of Santa Prisca, and more on other buildings and a royal lifestyle here and in Cuernavaca; by his death in 1778 the boom was already over. In 1929 however, the silver trade saw a revival, sparked by the arrival of American architect and writer William Spratling , who set up a jewellery workshop in Taxco, drawing on local traditional skills and pre-Hispanic designs. With the completion of a new road around the same time, a massive influx of tourists was inevitable – the town has handled it all fairly well, becoming rich at the expense of just a little charm.

The Aztec capital of Tenochtitlán was built on an island in the middle of a lake traversed by great causeways, a beautiful, strictly regulated, stone-built city of three hundred thousand residents. The Aztecs had arrived at the lake around 1325, after years of wandering and living off what they could scavenge or pillage from settled communities. According to legend, their patron god Huitzilopochtli had ordered them to build a city where they found an eagle perched on a nopal cactus, and devouring a snake. It is this legend that is the basis of the nopal, eagle and snake motif that forms the centrepiece of the modern Mexican flag.

The lake proved an ideal site: well stocked with fish, it was also fertile, once the Aztecs had constructed chinampas, or floating gardens of reeds. These enabled them to grow crops on the lake, as a result of which they were self-sufficient in food. The lake also made the city virtually impregnable: the causeways, when they were completed, could be flooded and the bridges raised to thwart attacks (or escape, as the Spanish found on the Noche Triste).

The island city eventually grew to cover an area of some thirteen square kilometres, much of it reclaimed from the lake, and from this base the Aztecs were able to begin their programme of expansion: initially dominating the valley by a series of strategic alliances, war and treachery, and finally, in a period of less than a hundred years before the brutal Spanish Conquest of 1521, establishing an empire that demanded tribute from, and traded with, the most distant parts of the country. Yet almost nothing of this amazing city survived the Conquest. “All that I saw then,” Bernal Díaz later wrote of his account of Tenochtitlán, “is overthrown and destroyed; nothing is left standing.” It is only relatively recently – particularly during construction of the Metro, and with the 1978 discovery of remains of the Templo Mayor beneath the colonial Zócalo – that a few remains of Tenochtitlán have been brought to light.

The city’s defeat, moreover, is still a harsh memory: Cortés himself is hardly revered, but the natives who assisted him, in particular La Malinche, the Veracruz woman who acted as Cortés’ interpreter, are non-people. Tributes to Moctezuma are rare, though Cuauhtémoc, his successor who led the fierce resistance, is commemorated everywhere; Malinche is represented, acidly, in some of Diego Rivera’s more outspoken murals.

Most visitors to Mexico City head out at some stage to the pre-Columbian pyramids at Teotihuacán: there’s a constant stream of tours, buses and cars heading this way, and the ruins can get quite busy, especially on a Sunday. As it’s an extensive site that can easily take up most of a day, it’s best, if possible, to head out here as early as you can manage and do most of your exploration in the cool of the morning, before the crowds arrive.

The ruins reveal a city planned and built on a massive scale, the great pyramids so huge that before their refurbishment one would have passed them by as hills without a second look. At its height this must have been the most imposing city in pre-Hispanic America, with a population thought to have been around 150,000 (though estimates vary), spread over an area of some 23 square kilometres (as opposed to the four square kilometres of the ceremonial centre). Back then, every building – grey hulks now – would have been covered in bright polychrome murals.

The main entrance, by Puerta 1, is at the southern end of the 2km-long Calzada de los Muertos (Causeway of the Dead), which originally extended 1.5km further south, and formed the axis around which the city developed. A broad roadway some 40m wide and linking all the most significant buildings, it was built to impress, with the low buildings that flank most of its length serving to heighten the impact of the two great pyramid temples at the northern end. Other streets, leading off to the rest of the city, originally intersected it at right angles, and even the Río San Juan was canalized so as not to disturb the symmetry (the bridge that then crossed it would have extended the full width of the street).

Its name is somewhat misleading, as it’s more a series of open plazas linked by staircases than a simple street. Neither is it in any way linked with the dead, although the Aztecs believed the buildings that lined it, then little more than earth-covered mounds, to be the burial places of kings. They are not, and although the exact function of most remains unclear, all obviously had some sacred significance. The design, seen in the many reconstructions, is fairly uniform: low three- or four-storey platforms consisting of vertical panels (tableros) supported by sloping walls. In many cases several are built on top of each other – clearly demonstrated in the Edificios Superpuestos (superimposed buildings) on the left-hand side shortly beyond the river. Here, excavated structures underneath the present level may have been the living quarters of Teotihuacán’s priests.

Directly opposite the entrance at Puerta 1 lies La Ciudadela, the Citadel. This enormous sunken square, surrounded by stepped platforms and with a low square altar in the centre, was the city’s administrative heart, with the houses of its chief priests and nobles arranged around a vast meeting place. Across the open space stands a tall pyramid construction inside which, during excavations, was found the Temple of Quetzalcoatl. With the back of the newer pyramid demolished, the elaborate (Miccaotli phase) temple structure stands revealed. Pyramids aside, this is one of the most impressive sections of the whole site, rising in four steps (of an original six), each sculpted in relief and punctuated at intervals by the stylized heads of Quetzalcoatl, the plumed serpent, and Tlaloc, the rain god. Traces of the original paint can be seen in places.

The great Pirámide del Sol (Pyramid of the Sun) is Teotihuacán’s outstanding landmark, a massive structure 70m high and, of Mexico’s ancient buildings, second in size only to Cholula (itself a total ruin). Its base is almost exactly the same size as that of the great Pyramid of Cheops in Egypt, but the lower-angled sides and its stepped nature make it very much lower. There are wonderful views from the top nonetheless, and the bulk is all the more remarkable when you consider the accuracy of its alignment: on two days a year (May 19 and July 25), the sun is directly over the pyramid at noon, and the main west facade faces the point at which the sun sets on these days. This alignment just off the cardinal points determined the line of the Calzada de los Muertos and of the entire city. Equally remarkable is the fact that the 2.5 million tonnes of stone and earth used in its construction were brought here without benefit of the wheel or any beast of burden, and shaped without the use of metal tools. The pyramid you see was reconstructed by Leopoldo Batres in 1908, in a thoroughly cavalier fashion. He blasted, with dynamite, a structure that originally abutted the south face, and stripped much of the surface in a search for a more complete building under the present one. In fact, the Pirámide del Sol, almost uniquely, was built in one go at a very early stage of the city’s development (about 100 AD), and there is only a very small older temple right at its heart.

You approach the pyramid by a short staircase leading to the right off the Calzada de los Muertos onto a broad esplanade, where stand the ruins of several small temples and priests’ dwellings. The main structure consists of five sloping layers of wall divided by terraces – the large flat area at the top would originally have ebeen surmounted by a sanctuary, long disappeared. Evidence of why this massive structure came to be raised here emerged in 1971 when archeologists stumbled on a tunnel (closed to the public) leading to a clover-leaf-shaped cave directly under the centre of the pyramid.

This, clearly, had been some kind of inner sanctuary, a holy of holies, and may even have been the reason for Teotihuacán’s foundation and the basis of its influence. Theories abound as to its exact nature, and many fit remarkably with legends handed down through the Aztecs. It’s most likely that the cave was formed by a subterranean spring, and came to be associated with Tlaloc, god of rain but also a bringer of fertility, as a sort of fountain of life. Alternatively, it could be associated with the legendary “seven grottoes”, a symbol of creation from which all later Mexican peoples claimed to have emerged, or to have been the site of an oracle, or associated with a cult of sacrifice – in Aztec times the flayed skins of victims of Xipe Totec were stored in a cave under a pyramid.

At the end of the Calzada de los Muertos rises the Pirámide de la Luna (Pyramid of the Moon), a smaller structure built slightly later (but still during the Tzacualli phase), whose top, thanks to the high ground on which it’s built, is virtually on a level with that of the Pirámide del Sol. The structure is very similar, with four sloping levels approached by a monumental stairway, but for some reason this seems a very much more elegant building: perhaps because of the smaller scale, or perhaps as a result of the approach, through the formally laid-out Plaza de la Luna. The top of the pyramid offers the best overview of the site’s layout, looking straight back down the length of the central thoroughfare. It is perfect for sunset, though as it is then close to closing time the guards will soon chase you down.

The Palacio de Quetzalpapálotl (Palace of the Quetzal-butterfly) lies to the left of the Plaza de la Luna, behind the low temples that surround it. Wholly restored, it’s virtually the only example of a pre-Hispanic roofed building in central Mexico and preserves a unique view of how the elite lived at Teotihuacán. The rooms are arranged around a patio whose elaborately carved pillars give the palace its name – their stylized designs represent birds (the brightly coloured quetzals, though some may be owls) and butterflies. In the galleries around the patio several frescoes survive, all very formalized and symbolic. Mural art was clearly very important in Teotihuacán, and almost every building has some decoration, though much has been removed for restoration.

Palacio de los Jaguares and Templo de los Caracoles Emplumados

Two earlier buildings, half-buried under the palace, still have substantial remains. In the Palacio de los Jaguares, jaguars in feathered headdresses blow conch shells from which emerge curls of music, or perhaps speech or prayers to Tlaloc (who appears along the top of the mural); in the Templo de los Caracoles Emplumados (Temple of the Plumed Snail Shells), you see a motif of feathers and seashells along with bright green parrots. Other murals, of which only traces remain, were found in the temples along the Calzada de los Muertos between the two pyramids.

Mural art was not reserved for the priests’ quarters – indeed some of the finest frescoes have been found in outlying apartment buildings. The famous Paradise of Tlaloc mural (reproduced in the Museo Nacional de Antropología) was discovered at Tepantitla, a residential quarter of the old city across the road from the back of the Pirámide del Sol. Only a part of it survives here, but there are others in the complex depicting a procession of priests and a ball-game. All have great vitality and an almost comic-strip quality, with speech bubbles emerging from the figures’ mouths, but their themes always have a religious rather than a purely decorative intent. More can be seen at Tetitla, to the west of the main site, and Atetelco, a little further west, just off the map.

Plan to spend at least some of your time in Teotihuacán’s excellent Museo del Sitio, situated behind the Pirámide del Sol and surrounded by a lovely sculpture and botanical garden. In the first room, artefacts from the site are well laid out and effectively lit to highlight the key features of each item in the cool interior. There’s just about everything you would expect of a ritual site and living city, from sharp-edged obsidian tools and everyday ceramics to some fine polychrome vessels decorated with animal and plant designs, and a series of five ceremonial braziers or censers ornamented with appliqué flowers, butterflies and shields.

Vast windows framing the Pirámide del Sol take up one entire wall of the second room, where you walk across a glass floor over a relief model of the entire city as it might once have been. The glass floor leads you to the third room, where burials from under the Temple of Quetzalcoatl have been relocated, along with statues of gods (often bottom-lit to accentuate the gruesome features), including a trio of braziers carried by the sun god Huitzilopochtli.

The rise and fall of Teotihuacán is almost exactly contemporary with imperial Rome. There is evidence of small agricultural communities in the vicinity dating to around 600 BC; by 200 BC a township had been established on the present site. From then until 1 AD (the period known as the Patlachique phase) the population increased, and the city assumed its most important characteristics: the great pyramids of the Sun and Moon were built, and the Calzada de los Muertos laid out. Development continued through the Tzacualli and Miccaotli phases (1–250 AD) with more construction and the blossoming of artistic expression. Then through the Tlamimilolpa phase (250–450 AD) there is evidence of the city’s influence (in architecture, sculpture and pottery) occurring at sites throughout modern Mexico and into Guatemala and Honduras. From 450 to around 650 AD (Xolalpan phase) it reached its peak in both population and power, with much new building and addition to earlier structures.

By the end of this period, however, there were already signs of decline, and the final phase, the Metepec, lasted at most a century before the city was sacked, burnt and virtually abandoned. This may have been the result of invasion or internal strife, but the underlying reasons could have been as much ecological as military. Vast forests were cut down to build the city (for use in columns, roof supports and door lintels) and huge quantities of wood burnt to make the lime plaster that coated the buildings. The result was severe soil erosion that left the hillsides as barren as they appear today. In addition, the agricultural effort needed to feed so many people (with no form of artificial fertilizer or knowledge of crop rotation) gradually sapped what land remained of its ability to grow more.

Whatever the precise causes, the city was left, eventually, to a ruination that was advanced even by the time of the Aztecs. To them, it represented a holy place from a previous age, and they gave it its present name, which translates as “the place where men became gods”. Although Teotihuacán features frequently in Aztec mythology, there are no written records – what we know of the city is derived entirely from archaeological and artistic evidence, so that even the original name remains unknown.

Allied to Cortés in his struggle against the Aztecs, as well as with colonial Spain in the War of Independence, TLAXCALA , the capital of a tiny state of the same name, has become a byword for treachery. Because of its alliance with Cortés, the town suffered a very different fate from that of nearby Cholula, which aligned itself with the Aztecs, and in the long run this has led to the disappearance of its ancient culture. The Spaniards founded a colonial town here – now restored and very beautiful in much of its original colonial glory, but whether because of its traitorous reputation or simply its isolation, development in Tlaxcala has been limited.

The town lies 131km west of Mexico City and 30km north of Puebla in the middle of a fertile, prosperous-looking upland plain surrounded by rather bare mountains. It’s an exceptionally pretty and much rehabilitated colonial town, comfortable enough but also fairly dull. Most of the interest lies very close to the zócalo, with its cluster of banks, post office and central bandstand, where the terracotta and ochre tones of the buildings lend the city its tag of “ Ciudad Roja ”, the Red City.

The capital of the state of México, TOLUCA DE LERDO is today a large and modern industrial centre, sprawling across a wide plain. At an altitude of nearly 2700m, it is the highest city in the country, and is surrounded by beautiful mountain scenery, dominated by the white-capped Nevado de Toluca . It is probably not a place you’ll want to linger, but on Fridays it is the site of what is allegedly the largest single market in the country.

Unusually for a Mexican city, Toluca’s centre is marked not by an open plaza, but by a central block surrounded on three sides by the nation’s longest series of arcades, built in the 1830s and known as portales , lined with shops, restaurants and cafés: Portal Madero is to the south along Hidalgo; Portal 20 de Noviembre is to the east along Allende; and Portal Reforma is to the west along Bravo. The fourth side is taken up by the nineteenth-century cathedral and, to its east, the mustard-yellow church of Santa Cruz . Most of the central sights are clustered north of the portales and the cathedral, close to the two massive open plazas: Plaza de los Mártires , north of the cathedral, which is dominated on its north side by the Palacio del Gobierno, and to its east, Plaza Garibay , which is rather prettier, with shrubbery and fountains.

The modern city of Tula de Allende lies on the edge of the Valley of México, 50km north of Mexico City. A pleasant enough regional centre with an impressive, if fortress-like, mid-sixteenth-century cathedral and Franciscan monastery, Tula is most notable for its wonderful pre-Hispanic pyramid site, located 2km north of the town centre.

Only a small part of Tula’s archeological site itself is of interest: though the city spreads over some considerable area only some of it has been excavated, and the outlying digs are holes in the ground, meaningful only to the archeologists who created them. The ceremonial centre, however, has been partly restored. The significance of the site is made much clearer if your Spanish is up to translating all the information presented in the museum by the entrance, and filled with fragments of Atlantes, Chac-mools and basalt heads, along with assorted bits of sculpture and frieze.

The site’s centrepiece is the low, five-stepped pyramid of the Templo de Tlahuizcalpantecuhtli (Temple of the Morning Star, or Pyramid B), atop which stand the Atlantes – giant, 5m-tall basalt figures that originally supported the roof of the sanctuary and represent Quetzalcoatl in his guise as the morning star, dressed as a Toltec warrior. The figures wear elaborately embroidered loincloths, sandals and feathered helmets, and sport ornaments around their necks and legs – for protection, each bears a sun-shaped shield on his back and a chest piece in the form of a stylized butterfly. Each also carries an atlatl, or spear-thrower, in his right hand and arrows or javelins in his left.

Other pillars are carved with more warriors and gods. Reliefs such as these are a recurrent theme in Tula: the entire temple was originally faced in sculpted stone, and although it was pillaged long ago you can still see some remnants – prowling jaguars and eagles, symbols of the two great warrior groups, devouring human hearts. In front of the temple is a great L-shaped colonnade, where the partly reconstructed pillars originally supported a huge roof under which, perhaps, the priests and nobles would review their troops or take part in ceremonies in the shade. Part of a long bench survives, with its relief decoration of a procession of warriors and priests. More such benches survive in the Palacio Quemado (Burnt Palace – it was destroyed by fire), next to the temple on the western side. Its three rooms, each a square, were once covered with a small central patio to let light in. The middle one is the best preserved, still with much of its original paint and two Chac-mools.

The main square of the city stood in front (south) of the temple and palace, with a low altar platform in the centre and the now ruinous pyramid of the Templo Mayor on the eastern side. The larger of two ball-courts in the central area is on the western side of the square: although also largely ruined, this marks one of the closest links between Tula and Chichén Itzá, as it is of identical shape and orientation to the great ball-court there. To the north of the temple stands the Coatepantli (Serpent Wall), elaborately carved in relief with images of human skeletons being eaten by giant snakes; beyond this, across an open space, there’s a second ball-court, smaller but in better order.

In legend at least, the mantle of Teotihuacán fell on Tollan, or Tula, as the next great power to dominate Mexico. The Aztecs regarded the city they constructed as the successor to Tula and hence embellished its reputation – the streets, they said, had been paved with gold and the buildings constructed from precious metals and stones, while the Toltecs, who founded Tula, were regarded as the inventors of every science and art. In reality, it seems unlikely that Tula was ever as large or as powerful a city as Teotihuacán had been – or as Tenochtitlán was to become – and its period of dominance (about 950–1150 AD) was relatively short. Yet all sorts of puzzles remain about the Toltec era, and in particular their apparent connection with the Yucatán – much of the architecture at Chichén Itzá, for example, appears to have been influenced by the Toltecs. Few people believe that the Toltecs actually had an empire that stretched so far: however warlike (and the artistic evidence is that Tula was a grimly militaristic society, heavily into human sacrifice), they would have lacked the manpower, resources or any logical justification for such expansion.

One possible answer lies in the legends of Quetzalcoatl. Adopted from Teotihuacán, the plumed serpent attained far more importance here in Tula, where he is depicted everywhere. At some stage Tula apparently had a ruler identified with Quetzalcoatl who was driven from the city by the machinations of the evil god Texcatlipoca, and the theory goes that this ruler, defeated in factional struggles within Tula, fled with his followers, eventually reaching Maya territory, where they established a new Toltec regime at Chichén Itzá. Though popular for a long time, this hypothesis has now fallen out of fashion following finds at Chichén Itzá that seem to undermine it.

West from Toluca, the road towards Morelia and the state of Michoacán is truly spectacular. Much of this wooded, mountainous area – as far as Zitácuaro – is given over to villas inhabited at weekends by wealthy refugees from the capital, and nowhere more so than at the small lakeside town of VALLE DE BRAVO. Set in a deep, pine-clad valley, the town sits on the eastern shore of an artificial lake, Lago Avandaro. With terracotta-tiled roofs, iron balconies affixed to many of the older buildings and a mass of whitewashed houses all huddled together, it is an immediately appealing place, something that has drawn a coterie of artistic refugees from the big city. They mostly keep to themselves, leaving the water’s edge for weekenders who descend for upmarket relaxation: boat trips, sailing, swimming, waterskiing, riding, paragliding, hiking and golf.

The zócalo, ringed with restaurants and centred on a twin-towered church, sits on a rise a fifteen-minute walk from the waterfront, where most of the action is centred, and sees spectacular sunsets. Here there’s a wharf ( embarcadero ) from which you can take boat rides to the parts of the lake inaccessible by road: either rent one, or join a lancha colectiva .

Valle de Bravo is a good base for visiting the Monarch Butterfly Sanctuary areas in the State of Mexico, which receive fewer visitors than those over the state line in Michoacán, and are more unspoilt, if less scenic. The easiest sanctuary area to visit from Valle de Bravo is at Los Saucos, whose gate is right on a main road and served by hourly buses between Valle de Bravo and Mexico City – make sure you get on a “por Saucos” bus. There are also organized tours every day in season, which can be booked through the tourist office or the tourist information kiosks in Valle de Bravo. Cerro Pelón, which is considered by many to be the prettiest of all the butterfly sanctuary areas, is slightly more remote, but can be reached on hourly Tepascelptepec-bound buses from Valle de Bravo.

The floating gardens adjoining the suburb of Xochimilco offer an intense carnival atmosphere every weekend and are likely to be one of your most memorable experiences of the city. Considerable effort has been expended in recent years to clean up the canals and maintain the water levels that had been dropping here, so Xochimilco (“place of the flower fields” in Náhuatl) looks set to remain the most popular Sunday outing for thousands of Mexicans. It’s also the one place where you get some feel for the ancient city and its water-borne commerce, thriving markets and dazzling colour – or at least an idealized view of it. Rent any of the colourful boats and you’ll be ferried around many kilometres of canals, continually harangued by women selling flowers, fruit and hot food from tiny canoes, or even by larger vessels bearing marimba players and entire mariachi bands who, for a small fee, will grapple alongside you and blast out a couple of numbers. The floating gardens themselves are no more floating than the Titanic : following the old Aztec methods of making the lake fertile, these chinampas are formed by a raft of mud and reeds, firmly rooted to the bottom by the plants. The scene now appears like a series of canals cut through dry land, but the area is still a very important gardening and flower-producing centre for the city. If you wander the streets of Xochimilco town you’ll find garden centres everywhere, with wonderful flowers and fruit in the market that enlivens the town centre for much of Saturday (though whether it’s healthy to eat food raised on these dirty waters is open to question).

Off the huge central plaza is the lovely sixteenth-century church of San Bernardino , full on Sundays with a succession of people paying homage and leaving offerings at one of its many chapels; in the plaza itself there are usually bands playing or mime artists entertaining the crowds.

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6 alternative and arty ways to discover Mexico City culture

Amid art deco architecture and Frida Kahlo’s creations, find Mexico City’s pre-Hispanic traditions and an Indigenous crafts scene.

Mexico’s sprawling capital is a gateway to the country’s Maya ruins, miles of beaches, rocky canyons and traditional Indigenous villages. But many travellers find the metropolis has an allure all of its own, and a handful of days can be well spent touring its neighbourhoods and historic centre. Mexico’s best museums are here, and its many galleries and markets help facilitate one of the strongest creative scenes in Latin America. Dig a little deeper to find the city’s pre-Hispanic roots, and discover how many customs are linked to the ancient Aztec and Maya civilisations.

1. Kayak the ancient canals of Xochimilco

Before the Spanish conquest in 1521, Mexico City, then called Tenochtitlán, was built on two small islands inside Lake Texcoco. The Aztecs built canals and floating farms called chinampas to feed its growing population. Today, all that remains of these ancient waterways are in Tláhuac and Xochimilco, a neighbourhood 15 miles south of Mexico City’s Centro Histórico. Flat-bottomed party boats called trajineras cruise Xochimilco’s canals daily, but a guided kayaking trip provides a more tranquil — and environmentally friendly — visit. Tours offer the chance to spot Xochimilco’s wildlife, including the critically endangered axolotl salamander and more than 200 bird species, while learning about the history and science behind chinampas, which still provide food for Mexico City residents.

2. Browse the Museo de Arte Popular

In the historic centre of Mexico City is the Museo de Arte Popular , a beautifully designed handicraft museum housed inside a 1920s art deco building. The museum, which once served as Mexico City’s fire department headquarters, celebrates traditional Mexican craft in all its forms, from textiles and pottery to children’s toys, furniture and giant alebrijes — mythical creatures made from wood or papier-mache. High-quality crafts from almost every Mexican state are displayed thematically over several floors, including ceramics from Jalisco, piñatas from Puebla and ceremonial masks from Chiapas. Particularly striking are the small but impressive Day of the Dead craft collection and the á rbol de la vida (tree of life) pieces – colourful, intricate clay sculptures depicting the creation of life.

3. Sip on pulque, the drink of the Aztec gods

Pulque is a drink made from the fermented sap of agave, the same plant used to make tequila and mezcal. It has been drunk for more than 2,000 years, making it Mexico’s oldest alcoholic beverage. During the Aztec empire, pulque was considered a sacred drink, reserved for gods, emperors and ceremonial events. The introduction of beer and distilled spirits by the Spanish in the 16th century marked the beginning of the end for pulque, with many of Mexico City’s pulquerias — taverns specialising in the drink — closing between the early 20th and 21st centuries. But a recent resurgence has seen several reopen across the city, making it one of the best places in Mexico to try the tipple. La Canica — a pulqueria in the Tabacalera neighbourhood run by a family that has been in the pulque business for five generations — takes a modern approach to the ancient drink, infusing freshly made pulque with dozens of seasonal flavours, from guava and mandarin to marzipan and toasted oats.

4. Try Mexico City’s ancient caviar

Ahuautle — which loosely translates to ‘seeds of joy’ in the ancient Nahuatl language and are also known as ‘water fly eggs’ — were sacred to the Aztecs. During the rainy season, a type of water fly called axayácatl would lay its eggs in Lake Texcoco. These were harvested for Aztec emperors and used as offerings to the gods. Montezuma, one of the last emperors of the Aztec empire, is said to have eaten them every morning to improve his strength. Hard to get hold of and up to four times more expensive a kilogram than beef, the eggs have been dubbed ahuautle , the ‘caviar’ of Mexico, by the capital’s chefs. Only a handful of restaurants in the capital still serve ahuautle, one of which is Ayluardo’s — in the Iztapalapa neighbourhood, in the east of Mexico City. It serves the water fly eggs — which taste intensely fishy, similar to dried shrimp — in pancakes with tomatillo (a bright green, acidic fruit native to Mexico) and serrano chilli sauce.

5. Support indigenous crafts at Mercado de Artesanías de la Ciudadela

Just a few minutes’ walk from Museo de Arte Popular is this hub for artisans, Mexico City’s largest and best arts and crafts market. It is home to 350 stands selling a huge variety of crafts, or artesanias in Spanish, from all over Mexico, including handblown glass from Jalisco, silver jewellery from Guerrero and patterned chaquira beadwork from Jalisco, crafted by the indigenous Huichol people. For beautiful ceremonial Mayan masks made of wood and obsidian, head to stand 104, where you’ll often see the craftspeople at work. Also seek out the artisans selling amate — colourful works painted on to paper made from the pulp of fig and mulberry trees; the same type of paper was once used by the ancient Aztecs and Mayas to produce manuscripts.

6. Experience Mexican folk dance at El Ballet Folklórico de México

Founded in 1952 by choreographer and dancer Amalia Hernández, Ballet Folklórico celebrates Mexico’s diverse folklore traditions through dance, music and traditional dress. The performances take audiences from Mexico’s ancient past up to the revolution in 1910, travelling through the states of Oaxaca, Jalisco, Sonora, Zacatecas, Guerrero and more. Many of the dances take inspiration from Mexico’s Indigenous cultures, such as the Deer Dance (a contemporary piece that depicts a pre-hunting ritual practised by the Indigenous people of Sonora and Sinaloa) and the Guelaguetza, a folkloric ballet inspired by the ceremonial dances of the Mixtec and Zapotec people of Oaxaca. Performances are held at the Palacio de Bellas Artes — a white-marbled, art nouveau palace commissioned by President Porfirio Díaz in 1905 — on Wednesdays at 8.30pm and Sundays at 9.30am and 8.30pm.

Related Topics

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• 2 Get around
• 4.1 Passion play
• 9 Stay safe

Iztapalapa is in the eastern part of Mexico City . It is a rough and tumble area that is the most populous borough in the city, as well as the poorest, and most crime-ridden. It has a long history, going back to the time when years were counted in single digits, and it has some unique attractions that a curious and adventurous traveler would enjoy, but it is also a poster child for urban decay and must be approached with diligence. See Stay safe .

During the colonial era, Iztapalapa was populated almost entirely by indigenas (Nahua) and was agrarian with chinampas and canals that connected to Xochimilco . In the 20th century, the area became heavily urbanized and the population changed to almost entirely mestizo.

Get in [ edit ]

Iztapalapa is well connected by public transit including Metro, Metrobus, and combis. Metro will be the best option for travelers.

There are several Metro stations in Iztapalapa close to places of touristic interest. Stations include:

Get around [ edit ]

Use Metro to get to most sites of interest. Uber is a good choice. If you use local taxis, be careful to use known sitios and take precautions (see Stay safe ).

See [ edit ]

• 19.357152 -99.091718 1 Catedral de Iztapalapa ( Santuario el Señor de la Cuevita, Señor del Santo Sepulcro de Jerusalén ), Ermita Iztapalapa 1271, San Pablo . Historic church that is famous for housing an effigy of Jesus that is said to have been the source of multiple miracles. Pilgrims come to the church to pray and seek relief from myriad maladies. During the annual Passion Play, nazarenes pick up their crosses and bear them up the Cerro de la Estrella (Mount Calvary) to be crucified.  
• 19.340123 -99.109237 2 Ex-convento de San Juan Evangelista Culhuacán ( Monastery of St John the Baptist ), C. Morelos 10, Culhuacan . Historic monastery founded by the Augustinian friars in 1552, though the current church was built during the 18th century. The monastery was a center for teaching indigenous languages to arriving missionaries from Spain. Today, the site is an historic monument, park, and includes the Museum of the Former Monastery of Culhuacán .  

• 19.387396 -99.039813 3 Head of Juarez Monument ( Monumento Cabeza de Juarez ), Av Guelatao S/N, Cabeza de Juárez III . Huge bust of former president Benito Juarez stylized in the manner of Olmec heads. A small museum presents historical interpretations. The surrounding area is clean with walkways and park benches.  
• 19.348437 -99.091205 4 Museo Fuego Nuevo ( New Fire Museum ), Carrretera Escenica al Cerro de la Estrella Km 2 . 09:00 - 18:00 . The Aztecs believed that the earth lived on a series of 52-year cycles. At the end of each 52 years, a ceremony was conducted at the top of Cerro de la Estrella to mark the passing of a cycle and to assure the start of a new cycle. The ceremony was actually far older than the Aztec (Mexica) culture, with archaeological evidence from an INAH excavation in 1974 showing its ceremonial use stretching back at least 4,000 years and including fragments of mammoth and other prehistoric animals. This museum explains the importance of this pre-Hispanic ritual and shows artifacts recovered at the site.  

Do [ edit ]

• 19.343018 -99.091148 1 Cerro de la Estrella National Park ( Parque Nacional Cerro de la Estrella ). Established in 1938 as a recreational area and green space for the city, the 1,093 hectare park is under enormous pressure from urban blight and overpopulation. Much of the original parkland has been lost to squatters and illegal commercial occupation. Nonetheless, the park is one of only 2 green areas in Iztapalapa. No natural flora or fauna exists in the park. Park flora consists only of planted eucalyptus and pine, and animal life consists only of species adapted to urban environments, such as pigeons, squirrels, rats and others rodents. Historically, the park was used by the Aztecs as the site of their New Fire ceremony, conducted every 52 years. Today, it is an important part of the borough's annual Passion Play: the hill becomes Mount Calvary where Jesus and other Nazarenes are "crucified".  

Passion play [ edit ]

The Passion Play of Iztapalapa has been performed every year since 1843, though it wasn't originally a passion play to commemorate the crucifixion and resurrection of Jesus. It began during a cholera epidemic as a celebration by locals giving thanks to God for sparing them from the disease and death sweeping the rest of the country. Over time, the epidemic was forgotten and it became a pure Easter celebration taking place from Good Friday through the entire Semana Santa. Today, Iztapalapa's Passion Play is one of the largest and most famous in Latin America, drawing up to 4 million visitors to the neighborhood for the 1-week performance and celebration. During this time, the borough is generally safe for tourists as the police force deploys in full force.

Buy [ edit ]

• 19.379403 -99.085699 1 Central de Abastos Iztapalapa . 22:00 - 18:00 . Mexico City's largest wholesale marketplace. Farmers and ranchers ship produce, meat, and seafood here to be sold to shop owners and restaurants throughout the city. Huge, bustling place full of every kind of food product imaginable.  

Eat [ edit ]

Drink [ edit ].

Sales of alcoholic beverages are suspended for the entire week of Semana Santa when the annual Passion Play is presented.

Drinking tap water is always risky in Mexico, but particularly so in Iztapalapa where much of the water is referred to as agua de tamarindo because of its dirty brown color.

Sleep [ edit ]

There is a camping area in Cerro de la Estrella National Park.

Stay safe [ edit ]

Iztapalapa is a rough neighborhood. Do not wander far from crowds or into nearby neighborhoods. Stay near touristic sites: this is not the part of town to be adventurous in.

Combis and urbano buses may not be safe for outsiders in this part of town. Be vigilant.

Go next [ edit ]

• La Villa de Guadalupe

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Mexico City travel guide: art and design

Being in Mexico City feels, I imagine, like being in Paris in the 1920s, or London in the 1960s: at the epicentre of a new world. 

Art, design, music, fashion, food… Mexico's thriving capital wasn't named Time Out's 2023 top cultural destination in the world for nothing. A high-altitude valley ringed by mountains is an appropriately dramatic setting for a megalopolis built on ancient ruins: the famed Aztec capital, Tenochtitlan. Even for this lifelong Londoner, the sheer scale of Mexico City is dizzying. I was grateful for the 17th-floor rooftop restaurant of my hotel, the Andaz Mexico City Condesa : its 360-degree views of the city, with the high rises of the bohemian La Condesa neighbourhood reflected in the infinity pool, offer a way to get your bearings. 

There's so much to do in a city of over 20 million people that it's best to narrow your focus. With its 170 museums, innumerable galleries, a world-famous annual art fair, architectural history and punchy street murals, the home of Frida Kahlo sits deservedly alongside Rome or Barcelona as an art capital of the world. If you know your avant-garde from your art deco, this is the city for you. 

What to see and do

The newly opened hotel, Andaz's second in Mexico and 25th globally, is inspired by the work of famed Mexican architect Luis Barragán, so it would be spurious not to begin with Casa Estudio Luis Barragán , the studio-turned-museum of the 20th-century titan, 10 minutes' walk away.

The nearly intact 1948 building is considered one of the most important 20th-century homes. It blends modern landscaping with light, colour and clever use of corners to bring the outdoors inside, emblematic of Barragán's style. This stylish-but-soothing Unesco World Heritage Site, with its floor-to-ceiling windows, will give you the worst kind of interior design envy – and that's to say nothing of its art collection, with works by Picasso and homegrown Diego Rivera. The warm, glowing pink walls make Farrow & Ball's Dead Salmon look like… well, dead salmon. 

Head around the corner to the tiny Kurimanzutto , a large warehouse room that's one of Mexico City's trendiest galleries and contemporary art spaces, showcasing 33 international artists.

Next, walk via the artificial 19th-century lake to another of the many artistic offerings in the bosque de Chapultepec (Chapultepec forest): the National Museum of Anthropology . It's an ode to the country's rich pre-Hispanic history, and one of the world's foremost archaeological museums. Contemporary art lovers also shouldn't miss the Museo de Arte Moderno (MAM) or nearby Rufino Tamayo Museum.

If street art is preferred, the tree-lined nextdoor neighbourhood of La Roma is home to a corner of delight: La Romita. A little plaza and its adjoining tiny cobbled streets are plastered in the type of spontaneous murals most cities would commission at great cost. The brightness of the colours, and the ambition of the murals, contrast with the shabby, pre-gentrified village vibe. 

Walking around the shaded avenues of Roma Norte and La Condesa gives design fans something to look at. There seems to be some sort of local competition for the most attractive, art nouveau-style security bars on the windows, usually ringed by bright colours beloved of Mexicans or a dramatic flourish of flowers. 

It's a fair way south from artistic La Condesa, but a must-see is the Frida Kahlo Museum . Her Casa Azul (Blue House) was home to arguably the most famous female artist of all time – and certainly, the international face of Mexico – as well as tempestuous Diego Rivera, who she married twice, or one of their many lovers. 

It's hard to describe the sensation of seeing her familiar work in the context of her cobalt home. Looking out from her bedroom window to her lush jungle of a garden, or standing by her painting table to see your own face in the mirror, surrounded by her pre-Columbian artefacts, European antiques and Mexican folk art, as well as her crutches and carefully adapted indigenous costumes that hid her broken body is like a glimpse inside her mind. 

A word of warning: you have to buy your tickets (270 Mexican pesos, or about £12.50) via the official website, at least a week in advance. If you do not have the right ticket for the correct time slot, you won't get in, even if you are a reincarnation of Kahlo herself. 

Where to stay: Andaz Mexico City Condesa

Andaz, a luxury boutique brand, is a Hindi word for "personal style". Andaz Mexico City Condesa can attest to that. 

The neon-lit mirrored staircase that goes up to the lobby is outrageously flamboyant, while the lobby itself is understated elegance in soothing earthy colours, neatly encapsulating the two faces of this hotel. 

Downstairs there are little touches like QR codes with information about the contemporary artwork and a discreetly tucked away Pasa Spa & Wellness centre, where you can have one of the most effective massages I've ever experienced. 

The relaxed Derba Matcha Café is a popular spot for young professionals for a smoothie or latte. The warm pastel velvets, plentiful plants and pastries are an influencer's paradise. The chef claims his concoctions are better than any you can get in Paris, which I put to the test.

The compact, ultra-modern rooms are also everything you'd expect from five-star boutique luxury: off-the-charts thread counts, sophisticated lighting systems and gleaming marble bathrooms. But the designers evidently had fun, with the bright pink obelisk and the vinyl records that seemed to have been chosen for their tantalising covers. 

The Tulum beach-style 17th-floor Cabuya Rooftop , a boho bar and restaurant, is accessible via a bright pink geometric-patterned lift. The walls are covered with vibrant murals by artist Edoardo Aldama: whales, turtles, octopuses and seabirds in primary colours, lit by lanterns dangling from the foliage ceiling. 

This is a destination: a place to be seen. The seafood-dominated menu, inspired by the flavours of the Baja and Yucatán regions, make it too compelling to leave. I particularly adored the sweet and sour octopus and fresh ceviche . 

The hotel goes on an unexpected tangent with its 'Wooftop' Beer Garden & Canine Club, a dog-friendly restaurant with a terrace. You can sip a beer and enjoy some nachos or a blackened fish taco, made in a street-food truck, while your pampered pooch sits on a bean bag next to you. There's also a doggy exercise area and – you'd have to see it to believe it – a special dog menu serving "vegan barkcini", non-alcoholic "beer for dogs" and the "woof slider" of ground beef, rice and beet. 

It's the kind of place a certain type of influencer would come to celebrate their dog's birthday – out-of-place kitsch, but very fun.

While this hotel might not be right for honeymooners or families with young kids, it's ideal for trendy professionals, fashion designers or bohemian art lovers.

How to get there

There are direct flights from London to Benito Juárez International Airport, with British Airways or Virgin Atlantic, but at nearly 12 hours it's a big ask. Stop off en route on Mexico's east coast – direct flights from all over the UK will get you to Cancún in just over 10 hours – and fend off the jet lag on the beach. 

Then it's just a 2.5-hour flight west to Mexico City, and a short cab or subway ride into the city. 

Harriet Marsden was a guest of Andaz Mexico City Condesa , and luxury tour operator, Untold Story Travel , which offers bespoke travel experiences to Mexico and destinations around the world. 

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