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London Eye River Cruise

Set sail on the River Thames with the London Eye River Cruise

Online from

Purchased separately

£57.50

Ticket includes:

• 30-minute London Eye rotation with iconic 360 degree views of the capital
• 40-minute circular sightseeing boat cruise along the famous River Thames
• The time selected will be for the River Cruise - you must book a visit time for the London Eye separately

£15.50

• 40 minute cruise through the heart of the city along River Thames

Expert commentary provided by our professional and knowledgeable guides on board. Foreign language audio guide available in 10 languages.

There is also a TV screen that displays the commentary in British Sign Language.

• Bar on board with a wide range of refreshments

See London’s most popular landmarks led by expert guides

Embark on a captivating 40-minute round-trip tour along the River Thames with the London Eye River Cruise. Setting sail from The London Eye Pier, you'll witness iconic landmarks like the Houses of Parliament, Big Ben (Palace of Westminster), St. Paul's Cathedral, Tate Modern, Tower of London, and Tower Bridge before returning to your starting point.

What is the London Eye River Cruise?

Our cruise offers a seamless journey without any stops at other piers, ensuring a continuous, scenic experience.

Maximize your visit by pairing The London Eye with the River Cruise, creating an unforgettable experience of London's beauty from both land and water.

What landmarks can I see on the lastminute.com London Eye River Cruise?

Here are just a few of the landmarks that can be seen during the lastminute.com London Eye River Cruise.  Other landmarks include London Bridge, Shakespeare's Globe and the Tate Modern to name a few. 

More about the tour

What's included.

• 40 minute circular boat tour along River Thames
• Live commentary by one of our expert guides to fill you in with everything you need to know about the city
• Audio commentary is available in English, French, German, Spanish, Dutch, Italian, Czech, Hindi, Polish, and Portuguese
• A British Sign Language guide on the indoor deck
• Wheelchair access - for more River Cruise accessibility information for wheelchair users, please refer to our accessibility page here . To make a booking for a wheelchair slot, please follow this link.

How long is the London Eye River Cruise?

It is a 40 minute circular tour that starts and stops at the London Eye Pier with no stop-over in between

What time do I need to arrive?

Your River Cruise booking time corresponds to the departure time of the cruise. Please arrive at boarding point 2 on the Pier at least 15 minutes before your scheduled River Cruise departure.

Please be aware that the cruise will depart punctually as scheduled, and late arrivals will not be accommodated.

How often does the London Eye River Cruise depart?

The London Eye River Cruise departs 45 minutes past every hour. For the most up-to-date opening hours, please visit the opening hours page

I have booked a London Eye River Cruise + London Eye ticket, how do I book my timeslots?

• When booking this ticket, the time you will initially select is for the River Cruise. This is the River Cruise departure time. Please arrive at boarding point 2 on the Pier at least 15 minutes before your River Cruise departure time.
• After completing your purchase, proceed to book a specific time slot for the London Eye >>Reserve your London Eye time slot here.

You have 90 days to visit the London Eye after your River Cruise visit. However, if you would like to do both in one day, we recommend booking your time slots in advance as availability is subject to change.

What happens if it rains?

The London Eye River Cruise has an indoor seating area operating on a first come first serve basis. Customers can still cruise along the river and enjoy the full experience in the comfort and warmth inside.

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Thames River Sightseeing Cruise Tickets

Select Your Experience

Westminster To Tower Bridge Quay Thames Cruise

• You can cancel these tickets up to 24 hours before the experience begins and get a full refund.
• Enjoy a cruise from Westminster Pier to Tower Bridge Quay, with a choice between one-way and round-trip.
• Let the live English commentary wash over you as you enjoy the city views, or tune in to WiFi audio guides available in English, German, French, Spanish, Italian, and Mandarin.
• Revel in a serene route that takes you through Embankment, Festival, and Bankside piers before reaching Tower Bridge Quay.
• Catch stunning views of famous monuments, including the London Eye, National Theatre, HMS Belfast, Tower of London, and many more.

This ticket has the following options that you can choose from:

• One-Way Cruise
• Round Trip Cruise

Uber Boat By Thames Clippers Hop-On Hop-Off Tour in London

• Soak in the best sights of London as you travel on the River Thames by boat.
• With over 18 piers across London and a fleet of 20 boats departing from Putney Pier in the west to Woolwich Royal Arsenal in the east, plan a hassle-free itinerary.
• Navigate through the city safely and comfortably as your cruise past London’s best attractions.
• Choose between a single river journey on the Thames or a River Roamer hop-on hop-off pass.
• Some of the iconic sites you’ll see are the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Bridge, the London Eye, the Oxo Building, and St. Paul’s Cathedral.

Weekday Westbound

• First cruise is at 6:25am from Barking Riverside
• Last cruise is at 10:57am from Putney
• Frequency: approx. every 30 minutes

Weekday Eastbound

• First cruise is at 6:30am from Putney
• Last cruise is at 10:24am from Barking Riverside
• Frequency: approx. every 20 minutes

Weekend Westbound

• First cruise is at 8:20am from Barking Riverside
• Last cruise is at 4:28pm from Battersea Power Station

Weekend Eastbound

• First cruise is at 8:35am from Battersea Power Station
• Last cruise is at 4:53pm from Barking Riverside

Please here for the detailed route map.

• Tip: Opt for a cruise from March to October for the best weather.
• Facilities: Wheelchair accessibility, Pram/stroller accessibility
• You can bring a Guide or Assistance dog on board with you without charge.
• These tickets can't be cancelled or rescheduled.

Thames River Sightseeing Cruise | A journey down London's liquid lifeline

What better way to describe London, if not an enchanted forest? If you stand anywhere in the middle of the city and do a 360-degree spin, you’ll see the burg don a different attire at every angle- a cloak of dreams, a motley of royalty, a gown of beauty and so much more.

In Ralph McTell’s words, “So how can you tell me you’re lonely, And say for you that the sun don’t shine? Let me take you by the hand and lead you through the streets of London. I'll show you something to make you change your mind”

That’s exactly what a sightseeing cruise of the Thames River offers! Instead of the streets, you’ll be cruising down London’s artery. Encounter the city’s proud landmarks such as the London Eye, Big Ben, National Theatre, Tate Modern, Tower Bridge, and more, dotting its shore, all in the span of a few hours!

What are you looking for?

So, sightseeing on the Thames? Got you! Just click on the links below to jump straight to what you're interested in, on your Thames River Sightseeing Cruise. This guide is all about you, so take your time reading through it to make the best decision!

Which Thames River Sightseeing Cruise is the right one for you?

Thames river sightseeing cruise | route map, want more options, london from the water | must-sees on a thames river cruise, 6 most famous bridges you can see on the thames river sightseeing cruises, tips if you are planning to get on a thames sightseeing cruise.

• Frequently asked questions about Thames River Sightseeing cruise
• Cruise : Westminster To Greenwich River Thames Sightseeing Cruise
• Starting from: €18.47
• Boarding point: Find on Maps
• Sights and attractions:  Houses of Parliament, London Eye, Palace of Westminster, Lambeth Palace, Chelsea Royal Hospital, The Shard, Tower Bridge (from a distance). You won't see much of East London or the riverside areas.

⭐ Most popular

• Cruise : Westminster To Tower Bridge Quay Thames Cruise
• Starting from: €15.08
• Sights and attractions: Houses of Parliament, Big Ben, London Eye, Tower of London, Southbank area, Shakespeare's Globe, Tate Modern, St. Paul's Cathedral, Tower Bridge (up close). You won't see Greenwich or any of the eastern riverside areas.

⚡Quickest option

• Cruise : Uber Boat By Thames Clippers Hop-On Hop-Off Tour in London
• Starting from: €11.98
• Boarding point: Find on maps
• Sights and attractions:  Putney Bridge, Kew Gardens, London Eye, St. Paul's Cathedral, Thames Barrier (the world's second-largest movable flood barrier) & more. Those interested in downtown London's sites may find this journey too long.

💵 Pocket friendly

Get a sound understanding of what attractions you can see and what pier is best and the most convenient for you using this map. For ease of access, download the map below.

Which seat is best for you?

Most cruise boats have both indoor and outdoor seating with two-by-two seats.

For the best selfie-spots, pick an outdoor seat for uninterrupted views and perfect photo sessions if you don't mind the somewhat-harsh weather. However, it's a good idea to wear clothes that dry quick if you fear you might get wet.

If you are picking an indoor seat, pick a window seat, especially if you are travelling solo, for a great view. Indoor seats are also great if you think it may rain but still want to go on a cruise. These indoor spaces are also heated and most cruise boats are equipped with a full-licensed bar.

Combine sightseeing with lunch, afternoon tea or an evening pre-dinner meal! As you cruise down the heart of London, enjoy a savoury British spread while listening to your audio guide letting you in on interesting facts and stories about the beautiful attractions dotting the skyline.

Thames River Lunch cruise

• Food:  A set lunch menu or buffet with a variety of options
• Ambiance:  Can be casual or semi-formal, depending on the company
• Who should go:  Great for those who want a scenic lunch experience while sightseeing. Ideal for families or groups who want a fulfilling meal.

Thames River Afternoon tea cruise

• Food:  Traditional afternoon tea with finger sandwiches, scones, clotted cream, pastries, and unlimited tea or coffee
• Ambiance:  Relaxed and elegant
• Who should go:  Perfect for those who want a quintessential British experience with charming views. Ideal for celebrations or a relaxing afternoon outing.

Thames River Evening Cruise

• Food:  Light canapés and drinks depending on cruise
• Ambiance:  Romantic or lively, depending on the cruise
• Who should go:  Good for couples seeking a romantic dinner with a view, or friends looking for an evening out with scenic city lights and entertainment (live music, DJs).

The Houses of Parliament (Right Bank)

This is undoubtedly the most iconic bridge in London. Built in 1894, it's known for its twin towers, Gothic Revival architecture, and bascules (the middle section that raises to allow large ships to pass). You can even walk across the walkways high above the Thames for stunning views!

Blackfriars Bridge

This bridge holds historical significance. First built in Roman times, the current version dates back to the late 18th century. It's known for its elegant design with five elliptical arches and its artistic connections - featuring statues of famous figures like William Shakespeare and Queen Victoria.

Westminster Bridge

Opened in 1862, it's the first major wrought-iron Thames bridge known for its seven arches and its lamp standards designed by famous gas engineer Isambard Kingdom Brune. You can see it on all three cruises. Its green color is said to match the leather seats in the House of Commons, located nearby.

Waterloo Bridge

This is the longest of the central London bridges, spanning the Thames at a whopping 1,230 feet. Opened in 1817, it played a significant role in the Battle of Waterloo, hence the name. It was also the first bridge across the Thames to be lit by gas lamps.

Lambeth Bridge

This suspension bridge is known for its classy design and eight massive towers. Opened in 1862, it replaced an earlier ferry service and offered a crucial north-south link across the river. Lambeth Bridge is a popular spot for film and television appearances.

London Bridge

Despite its name, Tower Bridge isn't the most famous one in London (often confused with Tower Bridge). The first bridge on this site was built by the Romans in the 1st century AD! The current bridge, opened in 1971, is a modern concrete and steel structure. You can see it on the hop-on hop-off cruise.

Cruise when the weather's bad!

Ever thought about enjoying London's views when the weather's at its worst? Sounds a bit wild, but hear us out! Imagine this: grey skies, maybe a drizzle and the London skyline shrouded in the gloomy 'gram worthy natural filter! Perfect, right? Grab your raincoat, head to the waterfront, and hop on a sightseeing cruise. And here's the kicker – sit on the top deck! Sure, it's not the coziest spot, but it's worth it.

Why? Because no one else in their right mind would be up there in such weather. You could have the whole top deck to yourself, perfect for some quality 'me time'. Sounds blissful, doesn't it?

Use your travelcard wisely

Got a travelcard for your London adventure? Flash it when you buy your cruise ticket. Those cruises aren't just for tourists; commuters use them too. So, you'll save some cash. Every penny counts, especially in pricey London.

Pick a Weekday

Simple math here: weekdays = fewer people. While the city buzzes with life, lots of folks are stuck at work or school. So, if you can, aim for a weekday cruise. Less crowd, more peace.

Start from Greenwich or Westminster

For the ultimate Thames experience, start from either end. We'd recommend Greenwich. It's bustling but not as crazy as Westminster. Plus, you can check out some cool sights before boarding. And if you time it right (i.e., tip 1!), you might just have the top deck all to yourself.

Snap perfect photos

One word: photos! Thames River Sightseeing Cruises offer awesome photo ops without the crowd combat. Say goodbye to photobombers ruining your shots of Big Ben or the London Eye. Plus, you get unique angles and views you won't get on foot.

"Another time"

Not only do you get killer views, but you also get a guided tour. Learn about the buildings, bridges, and districts as you cruise along the Thames. Fun facts included! Like, did you know Ian McKellen co-owns The Grapes pub? And that man you see, standing in the middle of the River? Nope, not Jesus. That's a statue (named 'Another time') created by the famous curator Antony Gormley. It is also rumoured that Sir Ian McKellen actually owns it!

Wear comfortable clothing

The dress code on most Thames River Cruises is smart casual attire. However, feel free to dress more formally for any special occasion. Choose comfortable attire that allows you to move freely. It's also advisable to dress in layers as London's weather can be quite unpredictable. This way you can add on more layers if the weather gets chilly. Don't forget hats and sunscreen if you are opting for a cruise during the day, especially in the summer. You may also want to carry a small bag for your sunscreen, water bottles, and camera.

Thames River Cruise Map

Frequently asked questions about thames river sightseeing cruise.

There are two types of sightseeing cruises available. One is a one way or a round trip cruise on the River Thames, for example- Westminster to Tower Bridge Quay and Westminster to Greenwich, while the other is a Hop on Hop off cruise, offering the flexibility of getting on or off at any of the 19 piers available.

Thames River Sightseeing cruise are extremely easy on the pocket. At only €11.98, you can hop on and off at any of the piers near numerous famous London attractions. Audio commentary, wheelchair and other facilities are also provided on board.

While food is not include in the ticket price, a wide range of delectable English cuisine is available for purchase onboard.

Choose the hop-on hop-off cruise if you want the most flexibility, want to explore a wider range of areas along the Thames, and have a full day to spend sightseeing. Choose the Westminster to Greenwich cruise if you're particularly interested in Greenwich's maritime history and want to see a good mix of central London landmarks and Greenwich in a shorter amount of time. Choose the Westminster to Tower Bridge Quay cruise if you're on a budget and want a concise tour focused on central London's most iconic sights, with a close-up view of Tower Bridge.

You can see the following London attractions and more: Houses of Parliament, Big Ben, London Eye, Palace of Westminster, Lambeth Palace, Chelsea Royal Hospital, The Shard, Tower Bridge (from a distance). Cutty Sark (historic tea clipper ship), Royal Observatory, National Maritime Museum, etc.

Peak Season (June-August): If you're visiting during peak summer months, booking a day or two in advance is recommended, especially for weekend cruises. This ensures you get a spot on your preferred cruise time. Shoulder Seasons (April-May, September-October): During these times, it's usually safe to book the day before or even on the day of the cruise, especially for weekday cruises. However, if there's a specific route or time you have your heart set on, booking a day in advance might be a good idea for peace of mind. Off-Season (November-March): The Thames cruises operate year-round, but during the off-season, they tend to have less frequent departures. Booking online a day in advance is still recommended to confirm availability and secure your spot, especially if you're traveling during weekdays when there might be fewer departures.

• Thames River Disco Cruise
• Bottomless Brunch Cruise
• 24 Hour Hop-On-Hop-Off Cruise
• Murder Mystery Dinner Cruise
• Afternoon Tea From The Tower
• Private Boat Hire on the River Thames
• New Years Eve Cruise 2024/25
• Christmas Disco 2024
• Summer Party Disco Cruise
• Elvis Cruise
• Sundowner/ Riverlights Evening Cruise
• Two Course Lunch Cruise
• Evening Dinner Cruise
• Private Hire
• Premiere Hot Buffets
• Finger Food
• Cold Buffets
• Barbeque Buffet
• Plated Dinner Menu
• Hot Buffet Suppers
• Plated Lunch Menu
• Morning and afternoon Tea Menu
• Bateaux London Dinner
• Testimonials
• River Thames Cruises

Make the most of London's breath-taking riverside landmarks with a hop on hop off river pass. With unlimited access for 24 hours, London opens up so you can explore with friends and family at your own pace.

With a hop-on hop-off Thames river cruise you can join the boat tour at any of the four piers (loacted at Greenwich, the Tower of London, the London Eye, and Westminster), with open passage on all City Cruises sightseeing boats for a full day spent exploring London's fantastic riverside views. Not only is it great value, but it's also a relaxed way to take in the sights without time pressure and avoid the busy streets of London.

Take your pick of an open upper deck or comfortable indoor saloon where you can enjoy entertaining and informative commentary and of course unrivalled views of London's iconic sights. There's so much to see and do along the Thames, with a hop-on hop-off ticket, London becomes your playground.

 Where to Meet:

• Westminster Pier
• London Eye Pier
• Greenwich Pier

UPON ARRIVAL -  When you arrive for your Hop on hop off cruise, please walk straight down onto the pier where you will be greeted by pier staff. Have your ticket ready to then be directed to your boarding point.

Average cruising time from one pier to the other is 40mins except from Westminster Pier to London Eye Pier which is 10mins.

Please note: With the 24h hop-on hop-off ticket you can take your first trip at any time during the day and take as many trips as you like until the boats stop operating in the evening. When the boats resume operations on the next day you will then have until the same time to continue using the ticket.

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London Thames Cruise Prices

Want to go boating on the Thames but don't know how much budget you need? Read on!

Isabel Catalán

The view from The Shard, London | ©Benjamin Davies

One of the most beautiful landscapes you will see during your trip to London is the Thames River crossing the heart of the city. On both sides of its banks rise several of the most famous monuments of the British capital that have transformed its skyline to become a tourist attraction in itself.

If the idea of navigating the waters of the Thames by boat like a sailor appeals to you, the first thing you will need to know to plan the activity is how much the tickets for a Thames cruise cost, where to buy them and if there is any way to save a little on the tickets. All that and more I tell you below!

What budget do I need for a Thames cruise?

If you feel like doing a cruise on the Thames but you are traveling to London on a tight budget or do not want to invest too much money in the activity, from 15 € you can get a ticket to ride on a boat with which to sail the waters of the river.

It is the cheapest option and you will make a closed tour of one hour on the Thames seeing many of the tourist attractions that are scattered along its course:

• The Palace of Westminster.
• The London Eye .
• The Tower of London .
• The Tower Bridge .

However, if you want to take a cruise on the Thames but you are looking for a little more flexibility in the activity, for a little more money**(from 23 €** in Hellotickets) you can take a river cruise with free stops to get on and off anywhere along the route as if it were one of the tourist buses of the city.

Price comparison table

• Thames River Cruise
• Without dinner
• Thames River Lunch Cruise
• Hop on Hop Off Thames River Cruise

How much budget do I need for the most premium Thames cruises?

Whether you want to treat yourself during your stay in London or if you are traveling with your partner and want to surprise her with a romantic plan, from 40 ¤ you can get in Hellotickets a ticket for one of the premium Thames cruises that usually include the boat ride and a snack or dinner with entertainment on board .

Within the premium cruises on the Thames there are also different price ranges depending on the type of activities that are performed on the tour.

For example, "afternoon tea" cruises (the classic English afternoon tea) are less expensive than those multi-course dinner cruises where there are also live music performances and smart-casual etiquette is required to attend.

Book a Thames cruise

Can I take a Thames cruise with a tourist card? How much does it cost?

That's right! For example from 74 ¤ you can get the London Pass in Hellotickets , which will allow you to make a cruise on the river Thames with a 1 day River Roamer pass. That is, you can enjoy a cruise with free stops on the River Thames.

This way, you can embark at any of the piers available along the river to make the boat cruise in full or to move between the different tourist attractions that are in the surroundings, getting on and off at the stop you want to explore each site on your own.

In the case of the London Pass you pay for days of use. It is an option that I recommend you to consider if you plan to see many different places during your getaway because these tourist cards will help you save time and money. If you are interested in this tourist card and you would like to buy it, in the post The best London tourist card you have a detailed analysis to see everything you can do with it.

Book the London Tourist Card

Can I buy tickets for the Thames river cruise at the ticket office? How much are they worth there?

Yes, it is possible to buy tickets to ride a Thames river cruise at the ticket offices you will find at the piers. However, I recommend you to buy tickets online to avoid the queues that form there and to do it well in advance, as it is one of the most popular activities among tourists going to London and tickets can sell out quickly.

The price varies depending on the cruise operator, the length of the route and whether or not it is a one-way ticket but you can find options starting at €13 for adults over 16. Children between the ages of 5 and 15 pay less and tickets start from €8.

Book a cruise on the Thames

Can I take a free Thames cruise and how can I save?

No, it is not possible to take a free Thames cruise. However, when buying your tickets to enjoy this experience there are ways to save money.

With a tourist card

One way to save money is to buy a London Tourist Card, specifically the London Pass**(from 74 €** at Hellotickets) which will allow you to visit more than 80 attractions in the city in addition to taking a river cruise.

With a combined ticket to several attractions

Another is to buy a combined ticket to two tourist attractions on the river bank. The most popular option is the cruise on the Thames and the London Eye.

From 15 € you can book an adult ticket on the website of the London Eye but if you pay a little more, from 22 € , you can get a ticket with priority seating in the first row of the boat to have unobstructed views of the river landscape.

If you want to know more about this option, I recommend you to read the post London Eye and Thames cruise: the perfect combination on your trip to London .

With the Oyster Card

If to move around London using public transport you have taken the Oyster Card (a rechargeable wallet card that lowers the price of the single ticket) you are in luck because you can ride with it on the River Bus , the boat operated by the company Uber Boat by Thames Clippers that allows you to move from one side of the city to another by water instead of by road with the bus or underground with the subway.

If you want to take a short cruise on the Thames without spending a lot of money, just for the pleasure of boating, using the Oyster Card is a good way to fulfill your wish while saving a little money, as you won't need to buy a general admission ticket to get on board.

How much does it cost to get to the Thames cruise pier?

In my opinion, the subway is the fastest means of transport to move as a tourist between the attractions of London and to take it you can buy a single ticket from 6 € depending on the area of the city where you move.

Before riding, I recommend you to check the fare on the London Transport website by entering the departure station and destination to calculate the approximate cost of the ticket.

If you are getting on the Thames cruise at Westminster Pier or London Eye Pier you can get off at Westminster tube station , the closest station to both places.

To save a little money when using public transport, which is not exactly cheap, I advise you to get a ticket for the London sightseeing bus (which will allow you to move around the city while enjoying the sights of the cityscape) or get one of the Travelcard or Oyster Card .

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Jazz Dinner Cruise on the River Thames | City Cruises™

Great evening.

Steve – TripAdvisor

Just wonderful

Dibleygirl – TripAdvisor

Does City Cruises have a floating jazz club cruise?

City Cruises welcomes you to a night of Jazz on the Thames. As the London jazz scene is constantly evolving with characterful jazz venues dotted all over the city, come on board for unique floating jazz experience.

Is there a floating jazz club in London?

If you are looking for a unique jazz experience, you’ve come to the right place! City Cruises welcomes you to a night of Jazz on the Thames.

What to wear on a London Jazz cruise?

We encourage smart casual attire on the Jazz Dinner Cruise. However, please feel free to dress for your occasion whether you are celebrating or just heading out for an amazing meal on the Thames.

We would advise against flip-flops, leisurewear and ripped jeans .

Do you need to book in advance for Jazz Cruise?

The Thames Jazz Cruise sails every Friday and you will need to purchase your tickets in advance online before boarding the boat.

Where does a Thames Jazz Cruise in London take you?

The Thames Jazz Cruise takes place on the Thames, departing from Westminster Pier and cruises up and down the Thames with great views of London’s iconic landmarks.

Is there bar on board the Thames Jazz Cruise?

There is a fully equipped bar on our Thames Jazz Cruise that will serve beers, wines, spirits and soft drinks.

Click here to see all Thames dinner cruise FAQs.

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River Bus Ticket Information

There are several ways for you to pay before you travel

Ways to Pay

Paying for river travel with Uber Boat by Thames Clippers couldn't be easier, we have different options available. Choose the most convenient for you. Remember, you must pay for a valid ticket before boarding.

Contactless or Oyster

Touch in and out with the same contactless or Oyster card (including at interchanges) to pay as you go. It’s quick and easy. Each passenger needs a separate card.

- You must have enough credit on your pay as you go Oyster card to complete your journey. We do not have top up facilities. - Touch in and out with the same card, including interchanges. - TfL daily cap does not apply to River services. - For contactless travel, please be aware that overseas transaction fees may apply to a card issued outside the UK; please check with your card issuer.

Buy single, return, River Roamers and Joint Tickets online and show the PDF ticket on your device before boarding

Thames Clippers Tickets App

Do you often travel with us? Download our Tickets app and save up to 75% on river travel with season tickets

You already have the Uber app installed on your phone? Save time and buy tickets directly through their app

Ticket office or ticket machine

Buy your tickets on the day directly at the pier at either the ticket office or one of the ticket machines and pay the standard fare. 

By paying for your travel online, via the app or using a Contactless or Oyster card you can save up to 24%.

The River Bus is divided into zones, just like the tube. Our services operate in three zones: West, Central and East and the fare will depend on which zones you travel in. Your ticket must be valid for all the zones you travel through. For instance, if you are travelling between Tower and Greenwich piers you will need a Central and East ticket.

Save up to 24% off the standard fare (purchased at the pier) by buying your tickets online, via the apps or travel using a Contactless or Oyster card.

• Child and Concession - 50% off adult fares Excludes return fares purchased at the pier. A child is 5-15 years old. 4s and under travel free. For concession fare eligibility, please see discounts section below .
• TfL Travelcard holders receive 1/3 off standard fares and season tickets.

For all discounts, please see below.

You can bring your bike on board at no extra cost

Dogs are allowed on board. Please keep them on a lead. 

Single & Return

Travel A to B in comfort and style!  Below are our adult fares for single and return tickets depending on the payment method you choose.

Go unlimited

Explore more with River Roamer tickets, unlimited all-day travel across all of our piers or choose an East Zone River Roamer to explore the Royal Borough of Greenwich and the area.

Cross River

Making crossing the Thames easier and cheaper for customers wanting to travel between the following piers: 

• Barking Riverside Pier  ↔  Woolwich (Royal Arsenal)   Pier For an easy connection with the Elizabeth line (within 9 minutes)
• Greenland (Surrey Quays) Pier  ↔  Canary Wharf Pier
• Doubletree Docklands Pier  ↔  Canary Wharf Pier For an easy connection to the Jubilee and Elizabeth lines, the DLR or Santander bikes.

Touch in and out with an Oyster or contactless card or alternatively purchase your Cross River ticket on the Thames Clippers Tickets or Uber apps.

Terms and conditions:

- The Cross River fare applies when touching in and out with an Oyster or contactless card for pay as you go or by buying a Cross River ticket on the Thames Clippers Tickets or Uber apps. - Discounts are not available for the Cross River fare: children, concession or Travelcard discounts do not apply. For these rates please purchase a regular East Zone ticket to receive a discount. -Only applies for single journeys between DoubleTree Docklands / Greenland (Surrey Quays) and Canary Wharf piers or Barking Riverside and Woolwich (Royal Arsenal) piers.

Other tickets

Commuter am.

Travelling on weekdays between 06:30 and 09:30? Save up to 25% when buying a single Commuter AM ticket on the Thames Clippers Tickets app, compared to when touching in and out with your Oyster or Contactless card.

Season Tickets

Save up to 75% on river travel with a weekly, monthly or annual season ticket via our Tickets app. This can work out as little as £1.61 per journey with our annual option. You’ll also receive 15% off at the café bar on board.

Flexible Ticket Carnets

A flexible solution for those who travel with us on a regular basis. Save time and money with our carnets, a flex ticket is up to 25% cheaper per journey compared to touching in with a Contactless or Oyster card. 

Park & Glide

Avoid costly central parking by parking your car securely at The O2 for the day and use the River Bus to travel into the city from North Greenwich Pier. Tickets are great value for money!

Note: 'Park & Glide for Work' tickets are temporarily unavailable. We are working to bring them back as soon as possible. 'Park & Glide for Leisure' can still be purchased.

Joint Tickets

Make the most of your day in London with our joint tickets for river travel and entry to some of the city’s greatest attractions along the Thames.

Group tickets

Groups of 10 or more receive a 10% discount on Single, Return and River Roamer tickets. Just book in advance via our form and we'll get in touch.

Gift vouchers

Purchase one of our gift vouchers and treat friends or loved ones to a fantastic experience on the river. Gift vouchers are valid for 12 months.

Boarding process

We operate a first come, first served boarding process at our piers, with season ticket holders (weekly, monthly and annual) boarded to their preferred sailing first* right behind any customers with disabilities.

Each of our vessels has a maximum capacity which we cannot exceed under any circumstances. This means if the vessel reaches capacity, boarding will be stopped. At staffed piers, the team are at hand to help with information regarding capacity and wait times. All customers are advised to arrive at the pier at least 5 minutes prior to their intended sailing. Ticket inspections are carried out at staffed piers during pre-boarding before the vessel arrives. To pay the correct fare, customers should only touch-in (if using Oyster/Contactless) when asked to do so. To ensure our vessels depart on time, customers who do not have the right tickets or arrive after pre-boarding has commenced or after the vessel is alongside, may be required to board the following sailing.

*Available at select piers only whilst staff are present. Find out more on our FAQ page .

• Children 4 years old and under travel free. Maximum two per ticketholder; any additional children under 4 years old will need a child ticket of their own.
• Children aged 5-15 get 50% off the adult price for all tickets (excluding return fares at piers, carnets and joint tickets).
• If children are travelling with Oyster pay as you go and want to receive the 50% discount they must have an 11-15 Oyster photocard, a 5-10 Oyster photocard or an Oyster/Visitor Oyster card with young visitor discount activated.
• Children receive a further 1/3 off standard child fares if they have a London Travelcard (the equivalent of half the price an adult Travelcard fare).
• Receive 1/3 off Standard fares with a Transport for London (TfL) Travelcard. This means you can receive 1/3 off standard Adult and Child single tickets, Adult River Roamers, Child River Roamers and Season Tickets.
• Oyster cards linked to Travelcards (weekly, monthly, annual) will automatically apply the 1/3 off when touching in and out.
• Passengers with paper Travelcards will need to purchase their tickets online, via the Tickets app or with the self-service ticket machine and select the TfL Travelcard option.
• Zip Oyster photocard, London Bus and Tram Pass season tickets are not eligible for the travelcard discount.
• Do you want to know more about Travelcards? Please check the TfL website here
• Freedom Pass, 60+ Oyster card and UK regional senior bus pass holders can receive 50% off all Uber Boat by Thames Clippers fares (excluding return purchased at piers). This includes a 50% discount on River Roamer tickets, single tickets and season tickets.
• This discount can be accessed by selecting the Concession fare via our website, the Tickets app, at the ticket office or at the ticket machine.
• You will need to show your Freedom Pass, 60+ Oyster card or UK regional senior bus pass to a member of staff when asked.
• Please note that Freedom Passes and UK regional senior bus passes can't be used to pay as you go, meaning they will not work with touching in and out at the Oyster card readers at piers.
• Please visit the Freedom Pass website for more information. We are unable to extend a similar discount to holders of Senior Railcards.
• Any person with a disability will receive a 50% discount of all of our tickets. This includes Single, Return (online only), River Roamer and season tickets; doesn't include carnets.
• If buying your ticket online, via the Tickets app or at the ticket machines at the pier, please select the Concession fare.
• When booking a ticket online add a Concession and a Carer ticket to your basket (applies to tickets for all timetabled services but may exclude some special sailings.)
• The carer ticket can also be accessed by selecting the Concession + Carer fare via the Thames Clippers Tickets app (available for Single, Return and River Roamer tickets - for season tickets please contact our Customer Service team ).
• Should you require the assistance of more than one person, please contact our Customer Service team to arrange tickets.

Learn more about the accessibility of our services

• 18+ Student Oyster photocard holders and Apprentice Oyster photocard holders will receive 1/3 off Season Tickets. 
• To obtain the discount please select the ‘Travelcard discount’ option via the Thames Clippers Tickets app.
• War Veteran Pass holders can receive a 50% discount off all of our fares. This includes River Roamer tickets, single tickets and season tickets.
• This discount can be accessed by booking via our website, the Tickets app, at the ticket office or at the ticket machine and selecting the Concession fare.
• You will need to show your War Veteran Pass to a member of staff when asked.
• Please note, if you wish to touch in and out with your War Veteran Pass, you must have sufficient credit on your Oyster card.
• TfL staff can receive the Travelcard discount: 1/3 off Standard fares. This is also the case for TfL staff's ‘nominated family/friend’.
• To obtain the discount please show your staff pass when buying your ticket at a pier ticket office, or select the ‘Travelcard discount’ option if purchasing tickets at a pier self service machine, online or via the Thames Clippers Tickets app.
• Tate Members get a 25% discount on the RB2 Tate to Tate service.
• Purchase your ticket at the Ticket office at Bankside or from the ticket machines at Bankside or Millbank piers. You must show your Tate Membership card to a member of staff when boarding.

Useful links

Accessibility, book tickets.

Refund Policy and Conditions of Carriage

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What's the best state for you », gucci brings glitz and glamor to london's tate modern museum with star-studded fashion show.

Luxury Italian fashion house Gucci has brought glitz and glamor to London's Tate Moden museum with a star-studded cruise collection show

Gucci Brings Glitz and Glamor to London's Tate Modern Museum With Star-Studded Fashion Show

Alberto Pezzali

A model wears an outfit for the Gucci Cruise fashion show in London, Monday, May 13, 2024. (Photo by Alberto Pezzali/Invision/AP)

LONDON (AP) — For one night only, the utilitarian, concrete basement of London's Tate Modern museum was transformed into a lush green jungle — and it was the hottest fashion ticket in town.

Luxury Italian fashion house Gucci hosted its star-studded cruise collection catwalk at the Thames-side modern art museum Monday, showing a series of delicate sheer outfits, relaxed denim and daywear, all adorned with the brand's coveted leather bags and other accessories with the double-G logo.

Singers Dua Lipa and Solange Knowles were on the front row with supermodel Kate Moss and her daughter Lila, along with actors Demi Moore, Paul Mescal and Andrew Scott. Also in attendance were Salma Hayek and her husband, Francois-Henri Pinault, who is chair and CEO of Kering, Gucci’s parent company.

It was a big-budget event and the first cruise collection by Sabato De Sarno, who was named Gucci's creative director last year and debuted his womenswear designs in September.

Gucci normally stages its shows in Milan, but like other fashion powerhouses it chooses locations around the world to show off its cruise, or resort, collections — the shows in between the main spring and autumn displays. Last year's destination was the Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul, South Korea.

On Monday, models meandered down a runway that wound its way around hundreds of ferns, overhanging plants and mossy paths, the mass of green a contrast to the grey, industrial show space. De Sarno said that contrast extends to his latest designs, which paired luxurious evening looks and floral embroidery with casual jackets and slouchy denim.

And what of the footwear? Comfort comes first, with all outfits, even the most glamorous evening gowns, paired with Mary Jane shoes, ballet flats or platform loafers worn with little white socks.

“Rigor and extravagance, strength in delicacy, Englishness with an Italian accent,” the show notes read.

De Sarno featured a few checked jackets in a nod to British style, though some other designs were a much more subtle tribute. Dresses and coats covered with squares made of a shimmering bead fringe were a reference to Scottish plaids.

Titled “We'll always have London," the show was partly a love letter to the British capital, which the brand says plays a key role in its founding story more than a century ago. Its founder, Guccio Gucci, traveled to London as a teenager and had a stint working as a bellhop in the Savoy, the luxury London hotel.

The brand says Guccio took inspiration from that experience when he opened his first store in Florence in 1921 to sell luggage. The rest, as they say, is history.

Copyright 2024 The  Associated Press . All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.

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Gucci brings glitz and glamor to London's Tate Modern museum with star-studded fashion show

Luxury Italian fashion house Gucci hosted its star-studded cruise collection catwalk at the Thames-side modern art museum Monday.

For one night only, the utilitarian, concrete basement of London's Tate Modern museum was transformed into a lush green jungle — and it was the hottest fashion ticket in town.

Luxury Italian fashion house Gucci hosted its star-studded cruise collection catwalk at the Thames-side modern art museum Monday, showing a series of delicate sheer outfits, relaxed denim and daywear, all adorned with the brand's coveted leather bags and other accessories with the double-G logo.

Singers Dua Lipa and Solange Knowles were on the front row with supermodel Kate Moss and her daughter Lila, along with actors Demi Moore, Paul Mescal and Andrew Scott. Also in attendance were Salma Hayek and her husband, Francois-Henri Pinault, who is chair and CEO of Kering, Gucci's parent company.

It was a big-budget event and the first cruise collection by Sabato De Sarno, who was named Gucci's creative director last year and debuted his womenswear designs in September.

Gucci normally stages its shows in Milan, but like other fashion powerhouses it chooses locations around the world to show off its cruise, or resort, collections — the shows in between the main spring and autumn displays. Last year's destination was the Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul, South Korea.

On Monday, models meandered down a runway that wound its way around hundreds of ferns, overhanging plants and mossy paths, the mass of green a contrast to the grey, industrial show space. De Sarno said that contrast extends to his latest designs, which paired luxurious evening looks and floral embroidery with casual jackets and slouchy denim.

And what of the footwear? Comfort comes first, with all outfits, even the most glamorous evening gowns, paired with Mary Jane shoes, ballet flats or platform loafers worn with little white socks.

"Rigor and extravagance, strength in delicacy, Englishness with an Italian accent," the show notes read.

De Sarno featured a few checked jackets in a nod to British style, though some other designs were a much more subtle tribute. Dresses and coats covered with squares made of a shimmering bead fringe were a reference to Scottish plaids.

Titled "We'll always have London," the show was partly a love letter to the British capital, which the brand says plays a key role in its founding story more than a century ago. Its founder, Guccio Gucci, traveled to London as a teenager and had a stint working as a bellhop in the Savoy, the luxury London hotel.

The brand says Guccio took inspiration from that experience when he opened his first store in Florence in 1921 to sell luggage. The rest, as they say, is history.

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Gucci brings glitz and glamor to London’s Tate Modern museum with star-studded fashion show

A model wears an outfit for the Gucci Cruise fashion show in London, Monday, May 13, 2024. (Photo by Alberto Pezzali/Invision/AP)

Models showcase outfits for the Gucci Cruise fashion show in London, Monday, May 13, 2024. (Photo by Alberto Pezzali/Invision/AP)

From second left, Paul Mescal, Selma Hayek, François-Henri Pinault and Dua Lipa attend the Gucci Cruise fashion show in London, Monday, May 13, 2024. (Photo by Alberto Pezzali/Invision/AP)

Paul Mescal attends the Gucci Cruise fashion show in London, Monday, May 13, 2024. (Photo by Alberto Pezzali/Invision/AP)

The party after the Gucci Cruise fashion show in London, Monday, May 13, 2024. (Photo by Alberto Pezzali/Invision/AP)

Dua Lipa, center, attends the Gucci Cruise fashion show in London, Monday, May 13, 2024. (Photo by Alberto Pezzali/Invision/AP)

Guests attend the party after the Gucci Cruise fashion show in London, Monday, May 13, 2024. (Photo by Alberto Pezzali/Invision/AP)

Gucci’s creative director Sabato De Sarno receives applause at the end of the Gucci Cruise fashion show in London, Monday, May 13, 2024. (Photo by Alberto Pezzali/Invision/AP)

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LONDON (AP) — For one night only, the utilitarian, concrete basement of London’s Tate Modern museum was transformed into a lush green jungle — and it was the hottest fashion ticket in town.

Luxury Italian fashion house Gucci hosted its star-studded cruise collection catwalk at the Thames-side modern art museum Monday, showing a series of delicate sheer outfits, relaxed denim and daywear, all adorned with the brand’s coveted leather bags and other accessories with the double-G logo.

Singers Dua Lipa and Solange Knowles were on the front row with supermodel Kate Moss and her daughter Lila, along with actors Demi Moore, Paul Mescal and Andrew Scott. Also in attendance were Salma Hayek and her husband, Francois-Henri Pinault, who is chair and CEO of Kering, Gucci’s parent company.

It was a big-budget event and the first cruise collection by Sabato De Sarno, who was named Gucci’s creative director last year and debuted his womenswear designs in September.

Gucci normally stages its shows in Milan, but like other fashion powerhouses it chooses locations around the world to show off its cruise, or resort, collections — the shows in between the main spring and autumn displays. Last year’s destination was the Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul, South Korea.

On Monday, models meandered down a runway that wound its way around hundreds of ferns, overhanging plants and mossy paths, the mass of green a contrast to the grey, industrial show space. De Sarno said that contrast extends to his latest designs, which paired luxurious evening looks and floral embroidery with casual jackets and slouchy denim.

And what of the footwear? Comfort comes first, with all outfits, even the most glamorous evening gowns, paired with Mary Jane shoes, ballet flats or platform loafers worn with little white socks.

“Rigor and extravagance, strength in delicacy, Englishness with an Italian accent,” the show notes read.

De Sarno featured a few checked jackets in a nod to British style, though some other designs were a much more subtle tribute. Dresses and coats covered with squares made of a shimmering bead fringe were a reference to Scottish plaids.

Titled “We’ll always have London,” the show was partly a love letter to the British capital, which the brand says plays a key role in its founding story more than a century ago. Its founder, Guccio Gucci, traveled to London as a teenager and had a stint working as a bellhop in the Savoy, the luxury London hotel.

The brand says Guccio took inspiration from that experience when he opened his first store in Florence in 1921 to sell luggage. The rest, as they say, is history.

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In London, a Houseboat Used to Be the Affordable Option. Not Anymore.

With land-based home prices increasingly out of reach, more Londoners are taking to the water. But as the canals fill up, even this affordable living option is becoming less attainable.

By Ben West

When you walk along the towpaths lining London’s 100-mile network of canals, a life on the water can appear idyllic. The boats dotting the winding banks look impossibly charming, romantic, colorful. Even better, they’re cheap to acquire compared with buying a conventional land-based house or apartment in the city.

“It’s so peaceful here,” said David Ros, a freelance sound designer who has been living on the London waterways for 15 years. “I wake up in the morning and open the side door looking out over the river, and the ducks are waiting for me to feed them. It’s just a really nice way to live.”

Mr. Ros, 62, took to the water all those years ago after his marriage broke up and his mother fell ill with cancer. “At the end of that, I didn’t really have much money as I hadn’t been able to work for quite a while,” he said. “I just had enough to buy a boat, so I got one.”

As he spoke, a kingfisher flew by and the sun cascaded through the windows of his 43-foot-long Dutch barge. He bought his current houseboat about six years ago for £30,000 ($38,000). It was a “complete wreck,” he said, so he did extensive renovations. Dating from 1940, the barge has an open kitchen/saloon in the bow, a bathroom with a shower and toilet, and a double bedroom in the stern. It’s a nice setup, if a bit cramped. “The headroom is one of the main disadvantages,” he said.

Mr. Ros says he’ll never live on dry land again, as he prefers being “surrounded by nature.” But the reality is, he probably couldn’t afford a place he wanted, anyway. Home prices remain out of reach for many in London, with an average sale price of about 508,000 British pounds ($636,000), a 50 percent increase over the past 10 years. Meanwhile, a two-bedroom Dutch barge houseboat in the area will now run you around £190,000 ($238,000).

The option is almost too appealing — a new wave of residential boaters is stretching London’s canal support system past its limits. “It’s changed dramatically in the last few years,” Mr. Ros said. “There’s probably three times the number of boats, four times the number of boats than there were 10 years ago. And the demographic has changed; there are a lot more young people.”

Boaters have been living on Britain’s canals since the industrial revolution. But according to the Canal & River Trust, which looks after the nation’s waterways system, the number of residential boats in London has ballooned by 86 percent over the past decade, to more than 4,000. Boats without home moorings — that is, a legal place to stay put — have more than tripled.

“I think it is fair to say that the large increase in people living on boats in the capital is driven by the housing crisis and cost of living in London,” said Jonathan Ludford, the national communications manager for the Canal & River Trust.

With all the new boats on the water, even this affordable living option is becoming less attainable. Mr. Ros’s winter coal supply costs £22 ($29) per bag, and he needs at least 20 bags for the season. Prices for diesel and gas are also up about 50 percent, and the basic price of a boat license is rising.

Even so, the Canal & River Trust is not taking action to limit the number of boats, said Fran Read, the organization’s national press officer. “There is plenty of room, even in hot spots like London, where boat numbers are more concentrated,” Ms. Read said. “But there is a finite amount of canal, with some places very busy already. So if a boater doesn’t have a permanent mooring, they may not be able to find a mooring space just where they’d like.”

Residential boaters in London have two options: One is a permanent mooring, maybe in a marina or along the towpath, with an electric hookup for everyday functions. In inner London, permanent moorings are just about at capacity. The other option, more affordable but less stable, is to “continuously cruise,” whereby the boat has to move into what is essentially a parking spot at least every 14 days.

To ease congestion, the Trust is cracking down on rogue mariners. “If you don’t have a mooring, they move you on, just like a parking attendant,” said Mr. Ros, who has a permanent mooring for around £7,000 ($8,800) a year — a lot less than the typical amount in the area. “They have these people on bicycles controlling each area, logging how long each boat is there. You get fined £25 a day if you overstay.”

Ms. Read confirmed that boat living in London can be “considerably cheaper” than living on land, though it comes with unique challenges and isn’t for everyone. “We support any boater who is struggling wherever possible,” she said, “including directing them toward benefits that are often available for those living afloat on low incomes.”

Boaters on residential moorings can claim housing benefits the same as land-based residents. And the Canal & River Trust lobbied for boaters without home moorings to be included in the government’s Energy Support Scheme last year.

Mark Knightley, 41, and his partner, Tessa Roberts, 37, bought their first London houseboat about eight years ago after realizing that it was their best chance of living together.

“We were renting two separate places, living miles apart,” Mr. Knightley said. “And I’m an actor, while Tessa is a researcher, so we don’t have a lot of money. And the cheapest way of living together was to buy a boat.”

For five years, the couple lived on the 36-foot-long narrow boat in Hackney, east London, which they bought for about £35,000 ($45,000). “It had a bed that would fold out every night, and the floor space was about two square feet,” Mr. Knightley said. “But it was on a beautiful marina on the River Lea.”

Three years ago, shortly before their daughter was born, the couple upgraded to a 70-foot-long Dutch barge with a permanent mooring at South Dock Marina, by the Thames in Rotherhithe, southeast London, for around £200,000.

Mr. Knightley glowed about the community around them — “like nothing that we’d find anywhere else in London,” he said. “There’s a lot of creative people, and loads of history with the dock and the boats that are here.”

Still, it’s a schlep to the supermarket, and ordering food gets complicated when delivery drivers don’t understand your address. And of course, raising a child on a barge comes with its own challenges. In the winter, power outages are a problem, “which can be scary for a young child when she’s in the bath and we’re suddenly plunged into pitch-black darkness,” Mr. Knightley said.

“People assume we must be terrified about her safety all the time because of the water,” Ms. Roberts said. “But I think it’s the same as living near a road: You teach them to be careful around it and you don’t leave them unsupervised outside.”

But the couple’s biggest challenge recently has been the spike in costs. Boat license fees rose by 4 percent beginning in April 2022, and the Canal & River Trust has also phased in additional pricing bands for boats wider than 7-foot-1. Fees for boats more than 10-foot-7 wide are subject to an additional 5 percent.

Houseboats in the River Trust’s jurisdiction require a Boat Safety Scheme certificate, which must be renewed every four years. And for boaters with a permanent mooring, there are mooring fees, paid monthly or annually to the marina owners; the fee that Ms. Roberts and Mr. Knightley pay rose by 11 percent this year, to £10,000 ($12,500).

“The maintenance costs are large when the size of the boat goes up,” Mr. Knightley said. “For our barge it cost £13,000, although the work done to make it legally safe will probably last 10 years. The last time this boat came out of the water, they had to extensively replace the steel, and it cost £40,000. You should also do an engine service every five years or so.”

In their area of London, higher fees are part of a plan by the Southwark borough council to redevelop the marina, at a cost of £6 million. The goal is to address health and safety issues on the water and on the docks, create new wash facilities and a cafe, and replace old workshops that are currently in shipping containers with new purpose-built ones.

The plan, said Catherine Rose, a Southwark Council member for neighborhoods, leisure and parks, “will address urgent health and safety issues to help maintain a working marina and enhance the boat yard environment.”

To help ease the transition, she said, the council is offering a discount for boat-repair shops and staggering the rent increase over a three-year period for all existing boatyard businesses.

But boaters like Mr. Knightley and Ms. Roberts see the move as a way to replace lower-income boaters with more commercial interests. “There’s a lot of concern at the moment with the community here about how the council are essentially trying to force people out,” Mr. Knightley said. “The housing situation in London is horrendous anyway; they’re just making it even worse.”

The boaters tend to agree, though, that safety and security are urgent matters. The Metropolitan Police Service does not keep separate data on water crimes, but boaters say that crime at marinas, and even on boats, has long been a problem.

“I’d never live on a boat again,” said Janusz Konarski, 56, who did just that in London’s Little Venice from 1983 to 1995, before returning to land. “I didn’t ever feel secure. There was a bloke trying to steal my bike. Then we had a glue sniffer undoing the moorings because he was mentally ill. He pulled a knife on me, although the police got him.”

These days, Mr. Ros said, “it feels like there’s a lot of crime around. There’s a lot more breaking in, there’s a lot more general thievery going on. It’s desperate times here, and boats are an easy target.”

And earlier version of this article misidentified a London waterway. It is the River Lea, not Lee.

How we handle corrections

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With land-based home prices increasingly out of reach, more Londoners are taking to the water . But as the canals fill up, even this affordable living option is becoming less attainable.

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The Great Stink: Britain’s pollution crisis

How privatisation and the pursuit of profit lead to the devastation of England’s waterways.

By Will Dunn

At the bottom of a steep bank beside a dual carriageway in Oxfordshire, a tiny, unnamed stream flows between  the trees. The A40 thunders overhead but the water here is clear; among the pebbles and crumbs of golden sand on the bottom, a few freshwater mussels are growing. Sticklebacks flick between strands of green water weed. The stream passes through a culvert, emerges from a concrete pipe and flows into Colwell Brook, where almost everything is dead.

Colwell Brook is perhaps six feet across, and for its entire length only one form of life can be seen: Sphaerotilus natans , a type of bacteria that gathers into grey, hair-like filaments a few centimetres long. Sphaerotilus can thrive in water that is low in oxygen and high in organic matter, hence its colloquial name – sewage fungus. It covers the bottom of the brook for hundreds of metres. Beneath the waterline the fronds sway lazily in the gentle current, but when Peter Hammond pulls up a branch they form into dangling, snotty clumps, the kind of stuff you might expect to find in the guts of an elderly dishwasher.

Peter, a computational biologist, tells me the Sphaerotilus colonies provide a medium on which the other bacteria found in sewage sludge can flourish, such as the antibiotic-resistant microbes that grow in the faeces of people taking certain medications. Colwell Brook is also polluted by all the other things that 40,000 people have flushed into their drains: bleach, detergent, food waste, drugs and microplastics. The water is a luminous orange-grey. “That is now the typical colour of the River Windrush in summer,” says Ash Smith, a retired police officer, “and this is not unique. Many, many other rivers have a similar story.” Colwell Brook flows into the Windrush downstream; the Windrush joins the Thames, which flows into the sea, where the pollutants enter the wider food chain. 

It is a bright, windy April day but the smell becomes unavoidable as we walk upstream to where two pipes emerge from the bank. The first rushes with clear water, treated by the sewage plant, which is visible beyond the fence on the other side of the brook. The other pipe, 20 feet upstream, disgorges a thick, greasy current of brown liquid. Most of the wet wipes and condoms have been sieved out but this is effectively an open sewer, flowing directly into the river. It has been doing so continuously for the last nine days. The air is thick with the smell of rotting faeces, but not only that. Every now and then, the brown stuff flowing from the pipe surges darkly, and a new smell, acrid and menacing, belches across the stream. Ash adds that the outflow will also contain the waste from a nearby abattoir.

Wearing gloves, Ash scoops a small phial of water into the brook. With a few drops of dye and a handheld colorimeter (a device about the size of an egg timer) he can determine how much ammonia is in the sample. After three minutes the reading appears: it is ten times the lethal level for fish.

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Here is the stark truth of how the UK’s water industry is regulated. The treated water from one pipe will be tested by the Environment Agency, and it will pass inspection while the other outflow pours human faeces and pigs’ blood into the same stream, 20 feet away. The amount of time in which untreated sewage is spilled is not measured by the regulator itself but by Thames Water, the private company doing the spilling. The environmental devastation we’re witnessing won’t be recorded as a serious pollution incident because they require certain markers to be observed, such as dead fish, and here the fish were all killed years ago. Government and the market have reduced the complex and elegant ecosystem of the brook – and hundreds like it – to a pungent slime.

The summer of 1858 was unusually hot and the Palace of Westminster (newly rebuilt after a fire in 1834) was mostly empty. London was the largest city in the world by population, and the untreated sewage of more than three million people was running directly into the Thames. The windows of the Commons and Lords were hung with drapes soaked in chloride of lime (bleach) and the riverbank outside parliament was doused with carbolic acid, but few could remain in the offices above the stinking mud.

MPs told the Derby Mercury that it would “not be possible to legislate, surrounded and penetrated by this mephitic vapour”. Diarrhoea and throat infections were common. Committees abandoned their meetings as MPs and peers wretched and gasped in the miasma. As a result the Tory government went largely unopposed – “Gladly will the Liberals… consent to their reign,” a contemporary account reported, “if they will but hurry on the necessary business, and let us go.” The Great Stink commanded a majority.

Today, the state of the nation’s rivers is once more an electoral issue. Far from protecting the government, however, it now confronts Tory voters with the reality that their party’s leadership of the country for the past 14 years has been anything but conservative. Britain’s water companies spent 3.6 million hours dumping raw sewage into rivers in 2023, a more than 100 per cent increase on the previous year. Rowers in this year’s Oxford and Cambridge boat race complained of bacterial infections impeding their training; the post-race tradition of jumping in the Thames has been abandoned. Lake Windermere has begun to turn green in the summer. On beaches in Kent, tomato plants that grow from undigested seeds in human faeces spring up each year.

River pollution, litter and fly-tipping are raised on doorsteps in every rural constituency. Last year, a poll of 6,000 people found that more than half of the people who voted Conservative in 2019 would consider the government’s handling of the sewage crisis when voting in the upcoming general election.

The political implications of the new Great Stink are about to become even more significant, however, because the finances of Britain’s privatised water industry, which has taken on debts of more than £60bn since it was privatised in 1989, are if anything more putrid than the rivers it pollutes. The largest of Britain’s water companies (the same company that is spilling sewage into Colwell Brook) is Thames Water, which supplies water and sewage services to 16 million people. It may be about to collapse.

A person with inside knowledge of Thames Water, who asked not to be identified, told me about the wide spread frustration within the company at failing equipment and a lack of money to fix problems that have been growing for years. They also said there is a sense among those working for Thames Water today that they are paying the price for the past, specifically the years 2006 to 2017, when the firm was owned by the Australian investment manager Macquarie. It loaded Thames Water with billions in debt while paying very large dividends. In that time, debt rose from £3.4bn to £10.8bn. “It seems like people got carried away with taking money out of the business,” the person said.

The consequences are now becoming evident. On 28 March, shareholders in the parent company of Thames Water, Kemble Water Finance Ltd, announced it would not make a planned £500m investment to prop up the company’s finances; it was, they declared, “uninvestable”. A week later, on 5 April, Kemble notified its creditors that it had begun to default on its debts. For any ordinary company this would be a disaster, but Kemble is not in a normal position. As the monopoly provider of an essential public service, there is no question of Thames Water being allowed to fail.

The government has drawn up a plan (“Project Timber”) for placing Thames Water into special administration, as it has with energy companies in recent years. It is a plan no one wants to use: shareholders would lose around 40 per cent of their capital while the state would take on the cost (estimated at £16bn) of cleaning up its balance sheet.

Thames is offering to avoid this situation, at a cost: it has pitched for steep increases in bills (by up to 44 per cent by 2030), looser rules on dividend payouts and lower environmental penalties. Its shareholders – a mix of pension and sovereign wealth funds from around the world – will invest more only if they can expect to receive more. The board of the Water Services Regulation Authority (Ofwat), which is responsible for economic regulation of the privatised water industry, will meet on 23 May to discuss whether a quarter of the country’s households can be asked to rescue Thames Water from itself through higher bills; the deadline for agreement is next month.

The government, however, can’t afford to call Thames Water’s bluff; the £16bn debt on the company’s balance sheet is more than the “headroom” of about £13bn allowed by the fiscal rules to which Jeremy Hunt and Rachel Reeves are both committed. A deepening crisis at Thames Water could cause other companies to wobble (as happened in the deregulated energy industry), making the wider problem more expensive and harder to fix.

The bridge over the Windrush was a favourite spot for Peter and Eileen Hammond for many years before they moved here, a waypoint on their walks through the Oxfordshire countryside. Then, one day, they drove past and saw that the derelict mill-house and cottages were being redeveloped. They bought one, moving in in 2002. Their garden, shared with the other three cottages, is across the lane: a long thin island, sharpened to a point by the river.

Had they arrived a century earlier they might have bumped into Nancy Mitford, who lived at nearby Asthall Manor (fictionalised as Alconleigh in The Pursuit of Love and Love in a Cold Climate ). The Windrush was Alconleigh’s “famous trout stream”, to which Uncle Matthew came for “his greatest treat of all the year, an afternoon’s chub fuddling”. The fuddler was employed to intoxicate or fuddle the numerous fat bronze chub because Matthew – like Mitford’s father, Baron Redesdale – was a fisherman who wanted the trout to flourish. Nancy and her father are buried now at a small church along the lane.

Ash Smith, who moved here in 2013, has a video of the river from 1998. When he watched it recently he could hardly believe the colour; the river looked as if it was full of gold. Clear water ran over bright yellow pebbles and sand, laced with rich green swathes of water-crowfoot. Barbel and roach hung in the current between the reeds. The chub were often visible from the bridge, especially in the spring when they would abandon all caution to spawn, scales flashing, in the shallows.

Peter and Ash noticed the river getting worse. The water became more turbid, there was less wildlife, fewer ducks wandering into the garden. They began, like so many of Britain’s amateur river watchers, by taking a few samples, but Peter and Ash are far from dabblers. Peter worked at University College London and Oxford, training AI models to recognise patterns in medical data; Ash has 30 years’ experience as a police officer, investigating corruption. They have spent years collecting and analysing evidence on how Thames Water has treated the Windrush.

As in many rivers, the deterioration of the Windrush appears to have begun around 2010. Peter and Ash believe the river’s decline was related to two policies: operator self-monitoring, or OSM, which was introduced by the Labour government in 2009, and austerity.

The Environment Agency, which regulates water quality, was a casualty of the latter. Among the many achievements of Liz Truss, her time as environment secretary from 2014 to 2016 is notable: she oversaw the agency’s tightest period of spending on water quality. Despite years of headlines on the sewage crisis, real-terms water quality spending in 2022/23 was 22 per cent lower than in 2012/13.

Peter and Ash say the Environment Agency has failed in its remit. OSM allowed companies to mark their own homework, and to test water when they know it will be cleaner. The companies, Peter claimed, “only monitor half of the sewage that’s ever treated. For two big heaps of sewage in a day, the second half is never monitored.”

The pair began requesting data under the Environmental Information Regulations, a retained EU law that compels public authorities to release information on the environment. A common tactic used by water companies was to provide a bewildering excess of numbers – “sending the needle and the haystack”, as Ash describes it. They didn’t realise they were submitting data to a professor of computational biology.

Peter gave his algorithms ten years of sewage treatment data, and the results – published in a peer-reviewed journal, Clean Water , in 2021 – showed not only that sewage had been dumped into the river, but that it had happened during dry weather, when doing so could be illegal.

Water companies don’t hose effluent into our waterways for the fun of it. The “spills”, as they are known, are caused by the fact that we have combined sewers: one pipe carries away the rainwater from the street and the waste from our homes and businesses. During periods of heavy rain, the extra water in the pipe spills out from “storm overflows” to avoid sewage welling up out of the drains in the road. This is perfectly legal and some overflows are almost entirely rainwater. With old, cracked pipes, however, groundwater gets in and the pipes overflow even when it isn’t raining. These “dry spills” are illegal. Peter and Ash showed that they were happening far more often than the water companies, or the Environment Agency, admitted.

For years this has been described by water companies and politicians as a problem of “Victorian” sewers. The combined sewer was a Victorian invention, but then so was the self-raising hat. In fact, modern sewers are the problem. Very little of the British sewer system – less than 1 per cent, in some areas – is Victorian, and it is not the Victorian sections that are responsible for the most spills. It is the smaller, cheaper, less well-maintained parts – much more recently built – that are at fault. Meanwhile, above ground, the pressures increase as populations grow, extreme weather becomes more likely and millions of front gardens are paved over.

To see how far a water company will go to avoid building new infrastructure, I travelled to Exmouth in south Devon. The town’s main industry is tourism; since the 18th century people have come to Exmouth to swim in the sea. Among them is Jo Bateman, who arrived via the long-distance coastal path. After a week’s holiday walking with her dog, Jo told me, she “fell in love with the sea”. She sold her house in the Midlands, quit her job and resumed walking the path until it brought her to Exmouth, where she has lived since 2018.

We followed the long curved beach, a strong wind blowing the sand around our feet. In the sea, kite-surfers leapt through the spray. Somewhere out there, a sewage outflow – incredibly, South West Water doesn’t know where it is – regularly discharges untreated sewage directly into the sea. The advice from the water company is to avoid swimming for 48 hours after a spill; for anyone following this advice, this would have been the first day the water was safe for almost two weeks.

In December, a pipe that carries sewage to a nearby treatment plant broke. While it was repaired, the sewage was pumped into large tankers and driven to the pumping station near the beach. For several days, a constant stream of tankers – 240 loads per day, of up to 18,000 litres per tanker – arrived to pump untreated sewage directly into the sea.

Other residents told me this was far from a one-off event. One described the night, a few years ago, when he awoke to the sound of heavy goods vehicles thundering along his quiet street. The trucks have become an overground pipeline that can be redirected to take sewage wherever it can be most cheaply treated – or dumped.

South West Water (SWW) has the highest sewerage bills in the UK. For decades, residents of the south-west have been told that this is because they’re paying for cleaner beaches (and therefore the jobs that come from tourism), but this isn’t true. SWW’s owner, Pennon Group, has made the steepest cuts to capital spending of any of the UK’s privatised water companies. Its spending on waste water treatment was slashed by 60 per cent from the 1990s to the 2010s. The company’s Environmental Performance Assessment for pollution incidents has been rated red (“significantly below target”) every year since 2011.

Bateman began by refusing to pay the sewage part of her bill, and soon received letters that raised the prospect of bailiffs and county court judgments. “It did freak me out,” she told me, “so I started paying it again.” Instead, she sued SWW for “loss of amenity”. Her claim – which she has prepared herself, using only her phone, as she doesn’t own a laptop – is that SWW denied her the opportunity to swim on 54 days of last year by dumping sewage when there was not a legal reason to do so.

The claim is tiny – less than £400, including her costs – and there is evidence that similar claims have been quietly paid off. Bateman wants her day in court, however, to defend the right to the physical and mental health benefits of swimming in public waters. This is a right the company claims does not exist: in a letter to Bateman, it told her “there is no absolute right to swim each day”.

Other lawsuits are for higher stakes. Professor Carolyn Roberts, for example, is the plaintiff in a class action against six water companies that have, she alleged to me, “seriously under-declared” the amount of sewage they have spilled into rivers. In doing so, she says, they have persuaded Ofwat to allow them to increase bills by more than they should have done. “The extent of under-reporting is very, very large,” Roberts claimed, and so, therefore, is the penalty: if successful, the action could require the companies to refund their customers by up to a total of £800m.

Even an award of this size would be small, however, in comparison to the tens of billions extracted from billpayers and decaying infrastructure in the past 35 years (England and Wales remain the only countries in the world to have fully privatised their water industry).

Privatisation was a con from the start: the Thatcher government had restricted the amounts that regional water boards could borrow, preventing them from investing in infrastructure, then presented private sector investment as the only answer to the investment crisis it had created.

Michael Howard, who as minister for water and planning from 1988 to 1989 oversaw the privatisation process, wrote in the Telegraph last year that “there is no such thing as a free lunch”, and that the best option is private equity funding, because it doesn’t affect fiscal headroom or the price of government debt. What the public understands, and Howard does not, is that they will be paying for water anyway. The £78bn that has been distributed to shareholders since privatisation has been extracted entirely from the public. The £96bn the industry says is needed to fix the system by 2030 will also come from the public.

It has always been obvious that bills will be higher and infrastructure worse if that money is raised by private investment rather than government borrowing. Mathew Lawrence, the director of Common Wealth, a think tank that specialises in research on asset ownership, explains that the underlying problem is the “maturity mismatch” between investment in public infrastructure, which pays off over the very long term, and the time-limited investments created by financial institutions.

An investment manager such as Macquarie, for example, will create ten-year funds in which its clients will invest. These funds, Lawrence explained, work against long-term fixed capital investment, “because if you’re exiting within ten years and you’re preparing to exit before then, why would you undertake 25-year-long capital investment projects?”

There’s also a risk mismatch in any such deal. Thames Water shareholders include the sovereign wealth funds of China and Abu Dhabi, which collectively hold more than $2trn in assets under management. Thames Water represents a tiny fraction of a percentage of their overall investments and the risk of its failure as an investment is easily tolerated. The same is not true for the 16 million people who rely on the company for clean water.

The only people who win from keeping the water system off the government’s balance sheet are politicians like Michael Howard (or Jeremy Hunt, or Rachel Reeves), who can claim to have saved the country money by relying on the munificence of the private sector. But this is a fiction, Lawrence explains: “It’s not that the UK’s debt-to-GDP doesn’t go up. It’s just that it happens on private sector balance sheets, in a more expensive fashion”.

Most of the public (69 per cent, in the most recent YouGov poll) now believe water should be renationalised, but none of the major political parties is committed to doing so. Both main parties say operator self-monitoring should end (in the next parliament) and Labour wants to block executive bonuses and issue criminal charges to polluting companies. Among all the people I spoke to, however, there is a consensus that the regulators, Ofwat and the Environment Agency, are in need of reform, particularly the latter. Carolyn Roberts described the agency’s testing of rivers as “woefully inadequate”, while Ash Smith called it “probably the worst organisation I’ve ever encountered, in terms of incompetence and lack of professional curiosity”. 

More fundamentally, however, there needs to be a recognition that the political mathematics that have led us to this point have failed to produce the right outcomes. Fiscal rules have created a system in which government is incentivised to portion essential services off to the private sector to keep them off the balance sheet. This creates a mass of competing needs that Dieter Helm, professor of economic policy at Oxford University, describes as “the classic example of system failure”. Every aspect, from agricultural subsidies to flood defences to planning regulations and parking spaces, is considered in isolation. “We pay farmers to pollute [through agricultural subsidies], and then we pay water companies to take the pollution out of the water.”

For now, Colwell Brook will have to wait. Thanks to Thames Water’s financial problems, planned works will be pushed back into the next five-year spending period. Water companies have little to lose from doing this; the longer environmental problems persist, the more they can say they will need to increase bills to fix the disasters that have occurred on their watch. In rivers and streams, in village ponds and on beaches, Britain’s new Great Stink will continue to grow until Westminster decides it can no longer hold its nose.

This appears in the 17-23 May issue of the New Statesman magazine

[See also: The Tory doomscroll ]

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This article appears in the 15 May 2024 issue of the New Statesman, The Great Stink